In machinist school I learned to use the tool post on the cross slide as a tail stock quill stop. I would touch off the drill to the end of my part to zero the drill. Then, I'd bring the cross slide over to the tailstock quill with the tool post touching the quill. Then I would zero out my DRO, move my cross slide to the depth that I want to drill and used it as a stop. 100% accurate and repeatable results all the time.
I've got a few tailstock tools that eject right at the very bottom of travel. You have to almost jam the handwheel to get them out. I've found tossing a half inch ball bearing in the hole first solves this nicely.
Love watching your videos, well done, you stay clearly out of the weeds, direct and to the point with very clear narration of each challenge, solution and errors. In my decades of machining it became very clear mistakes happen all the time, for you can't make them unless your working. It is the skilled machinist who can get past them oops mainlining quality results, you are very skilled. Cheers!
YES! I'm so happy to witness the proliferation of the word "scunge!" Maybe you've known that word for a while, but I first learned of it a couple of years ago while watching the delightful Australian mad scientist over at Explosions and Fire. Such a good word.
My tail stock quill has always been extremely stiff, but I didn’t know if that was intentional. Instead of it sliding out as in the video, I had to knock it out with a hammer. After I cleaned it up, my quill now moves smoothly as well. Many thanks.
Used a couple of neodymium magnets to hold mine in place, not as positive as the drill and tap dance but works. Also too lazy to fabricate a quill bracket from ally so designed and 3D printed one from carbon fibre PLA. Like your work by the way!
Adding ammunition to my can: when the internal voice nags me “why are you keeping that?”, I’ll answer “cuz I may one day want to bolt it onto the lathe”. Nice
Toolception! Quinn, as a mechanical engineer (with a career mostly in plastic parts), I enjoy learning from your design process as much as I enjoy the machining and tooling stuff. This was great fun. Thank you!
Have you tried a chuck mounted as a tool on the carriage? Stefan G has some good videos on this, including free DRO and power feed. Multifix A is compatible up to MT3 drills.
Enjoyed the video and thanks for the ideas, nice solution on the ejection mechanism. Everyone needs one of these at one time or anotherJust a note on that battery cover, I have one similar and it is a bear to work with, and small enough to get lost when dropped. This provoked me to make an over-sized button which is easy to hold on to and easier to return home on the battery space. Cheers!
Quinn - what a great addition to your lathe. As always, you did a thorough job of covering each of the pertinent issues. Always a delight to watch your videos.
Thanks for the inspiriation, Quinn, and for pointing me to Presso's version for us non-squares. Wanting to add one to my Myford ML7. Do you think there should be allowance for quill twist under pressure? My 80 year old tailstock might be a tad less tolerance-aware compared to yours and Presso's idea of a pin to locate the dial might allow for some pressure twist in the quill. Don't know if your DRO has enough flex built in or if you should allow for axial movement in the mount for when things get serious, especially when the quill is not extended much and the angle of twist is greatest. Maybe not an issue but hard to tell without being hands on.
Hello, thanks so much for all your videos. You mention saving the center for purposes such as straightening the screw. Is that something you could elaborate on, or do a video on? I have a drill press vise that I dropped...er I mean I torqued it too hard and one of the threaded rods in it is slightly bent. Thanks in advance for any thoughts.
Thanks for showing the modification to your tailstock. There's a more compact way to accomplish the same purpose if you're willing to seriously modify a four inch digital caliper. Basically you remove exterior and interior jaws and attach the head of the caliper to the ram. Mount the caliper to the top of the tailstock and attach the movable head to the ram for a very compact depth gage for your tailstock.
The color match with on the chuck tape is fantastic! Great video Quinn, I support our DRO minions, I mean they even put them on stoves. With the 3 pins trick, do the two larger bottom pins have to be the same diameter?
very good. I have been thinking about doing this, but by attaching a right angle bracket to the face of the quill ( drill and tap the end M4). Haven't done it yet in case it turns out to be a bad idea.
Always especially satisfying to make such a significant improvement in something with parts and materials you already have lying around or re-purposed from something else. Well done!
WHAT!!!! i’m in the shop right now and like to have random videos playing kinda as a background and am building a tailstock DRO when this video was recommended right now! what are the odds my I pad is watching me and decided to recommend your dro build as the 1st video of yours to be recommended to me in months? so weird… anyways I was wondering if you could possibly one day do a video on the difference between SFM vs. chipload speed/feed to possible help me understand why I have such a hard time with small hole machining? love your vids!
Sometimes I do wonder how they design and make the original castings for those parts. Presumably you could still do it at home, but it would be a rather large cast and to do it with cast iron instead of like aluminum would take a lot of heat. You would also need a much larger set of machines to machine it square and concentric with the spindle etc. It would be interesting to see if a RUclipsr has attempted to make one just for fun
The closest to that would be the Gingery book series. He shows you how to build a machine shop from first principles. A couple of RUclipsrs have followed his books. His machines are aluminum though. Casting iron is very very serious business and you need special facilities and very serious safety gear. You need to know what you are doing and it is not for amateurs.
There's a guy that has started producing new Ranalah "English wheels" (a tool for shaping car body panels), involving a very hefty iron casting that he got one of the last iron foundries in the UK to make. Fascinating stuff. He has a channel - Dominic Chinea.
little epoxy in inclusion in top rt hole?? have an old Montgomery Wards - logan lathe just getting to know it.. good info on clamp fit enjoyed the build!!! have fun
I have watched a few of these and Quinn's version is the neatest so far. I have a digital readout using an encoder contraption reading directly off the tailstock quill screw. It works well but is not backlash blind as opposed to using a scale. It is very compact though which is what I needed.
simple digital verniers can also do wonders like this with some additional clamping aids may not be as good though. as accurate even on cheapest one to be 0.01. enlightened dear one. they all come with similar zero multi units type reading capabilities.
Hello. Incredibly beautiful quality you make, which is pampered for every detail. But the way you mount your tallstock, couldn't it be mounted like this? I use your drawing time 4.42.. Shaft (1) is screwed back to zero point. In housing (10), opposite no. 18, a 7 mm hole is drilled 4 mm from the inside edge, down through housing (10) into shaft (1). Shaft (1) is removed and an 8 mm thread is made in the 7 mm hole. In housing (10), the 7 mm hole is drilled up to 8 mm. The hole is filed up so that it becomes a U. Shaft (1) is mounted again. A shaft with an 8 mm thread at the bottom and a 6 mm thread at the top for the tallstock, screwed down into the shaft (1) and finally the four holes and threads in the housing (10). Then the tallstock is ready for assembly . I have great respect for what you do. so This post is not to criticize your work. Regards, Per Højlund Denmark
I need advice im taking a dunlap 534.0601 wood lathe with morse taper no1 tailstock and headstock and putting the off the shelf metal turning accessories on it for model engineering, im buying the craftsman 4 jaw chuck, crossslide, cast faceplate,& motor countershaft i know its undersized for literally everything and technology wise pre civilwar since it has no change gears but im using it to teach myself how to machine before i start looking for that flat belt prewar monster with enough chuck clearance to fix my friends steam tractor and my horse drawn farm implements do you have any books,tools,etc from the civil war era that i should look for regarding machining with a lathe that has no power feed lead screw
hi quinn,had the same problem with that different ejectionpoints of my tools on the tailstock.I solved it by adding material at the end of the"too short" tools so i didnt limit my travel on the other tools.Just spot-welded material onto the ends.Not the most professional way but at the time it solved the issue.Your solution is of course the more pro version.And the idea of putting a dro on it is well worth to think about.
Nice install, Quinn! Would you mind sharing the spec. for the scale you installed? After watching your video, I’m motivated to do this on my lathe. Thanks! -Robert
An admittedly dumb question (to feed the voracious YT algorithm monster 🐉): Is the scale mechanism on the DRO similar to the scale mechanism on most hand held digital calipers?
Hi Quinn, I’m curious on where you got that small live center, seems like it would be quite a useful tool :) also really enjoyed the video (as always) Julian :)
12:21 Quinn is making a clamp. My thoughts went along with mr. Superfastmatt and how he would have approached the situation. ...oh, a ring. She tried it on her ring finger.
Cool trick with the 3 dowels, and thanks for the tip to extend the ejection pin on the tailstock screw - I need to do that to mind even without the clamp there. I ruined a keyless chuck by bopping it with a hide hammer trying to get it out. I guess I should have disassembled the tailstock from the rear but didn't think of it at the time! The chuck still works, but it don't feel right.
Really nice work. I'm no machinist but have been toying with possibility of getting a lathe and mill to learn. Your videos are a great tutorial. Thanks.
Inspiring! I want to do this to my PM1022. Think I might swap my 2-axis DRO for a 3 and add it there! Sweet! Oh, and I am also wanting a rotary table now!
Quinn, are those "readers" outside the safety squints? I've not found a perfect solution for prescription safety glasses within a reasonable budget. Great build video as usual, plus the dry humor!
zenni has prescription safety glasses with side shields for $30 plus whatever prescription extras (although they might be us only, and you need to scroll down to the footer menu to find them)
@@magic-gps186 Thx, I have a pair of single strength safety from them, they work for most shop work (18"-36" from the eyeballs). When I got them, they did not offer bifocal or progressive. It's been a while, maybe they offer that now. They are not cheap like readers, but much cheaper than progressive lenses for my every day glasses. I just looked, and it seems that there are new players in the prescription safety glasses game, now they have progressive lenses in wrap-around style.
Great video, as always. Suggestion if you find that the current DRO stack-up seems to be too tall: you should be able to get rid of the plastic backing of the DRO (or maybe replace it with a 1/16" piece of plastic) as that is just a piece of plastic to keep everything from falling apart in normal operation. If you get rid of that plastic back and the aluminum block you should be able to drop the whole thing by about 1/2".
Just for others info as you've already done it. My tailstock DRO (capacitive scale) read head is kept in place with an old hard drive magnet glued in the mounting plate - no drilling required in the tailstock casting. A ball bearing glued into the centre drilling of centres also extends the ejection point.
17:29 Amazing to see you taking shortcuts! I normally expect that you would never take a shortcut that would affect dimensional accuracy. It's nice to do things differently from time to time. I always enjoy your narrated process. P.S. I laughed at the ring gag. Anything is a toy if you play with it!
Nice work Quinn. I would think about a cover (clear hinged plastic maybe or perhaps a drop on box) to protect the little screen and the buttons while you don't need the DRO function. Cheers
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
In machinist school I learned to use the tool post on the cross slide as a tail stock quill stop. I would touch off the drill to the end of my part to zero the drill. Then, I'd bring the cross slide over to the tailstock quill with the tool post touching the quill. Then I would zero out my DRO, move my cross slide to the depth that I want to drill and used it as a stop. 100% accurate and repeatable results all the time.
Thanks, wish I'd known that long time ago!
Hmmm.... Sounds too easy to me! We need to make gadgets 😀👍
Love the face of 'ferocious concentration' while operating the rotary table.
Rotary table face. Everyone has one. lol
I have Resting Machinist Face
She wanted that rotary table to get off her lawn!
Thanks for the inspiration! I've made mine using 3D printer and loved the result!
I've got a few tailstock tools that eject right at the very bottom of travel. You have to almost jam the handwheel to get them out. I've found tossing a half inch ball bearing in the hole first solves this nicely.
Love watching your videos, well done, you stay clearly out of the weeds, direct and to the point with very clear narration of each challenge, solution and errors. In my decades of machining it became very clear mistakes happen all the time, for you can't make them unless your working. It is the skilled machinist who can get past them oops mainlining quality results, you are very skilled. Cheers!
Thanks for explaining the measuring technique with pins and feeler gauges. That's the part I get hung up on as a novice hobby machinist.
YES! I'm so happy to witness the proliferation of the word "scunge!" Maybe you've known that word for a while, but I first learned of it a couple of years ago while watching the delightful Australian mad scientist over at Explosions and Fire. Such a good word.
Luxurious indeed! Small investment in time, but huge pay-off in functionality. Now, anodise it😂
I haven’t achieved that level yet 😄😄
I'm very impressed with how many improvements you have made to your mini lathe and mill over time. Can't wait for next week, Quinn.
Clever setup with the three pins!!
Thanks to you and Cutting Edge Engineering I’ve avoided doing gardening this afternoon!.
Thanks for the inspiration. I've made mine using 3D printing and loved the result!
My tail stock quill has always been extremely stiff, but I didn’t know if that was intentional. Instead of it sliding out as in the video, I had to knock it out with a hammer. After I cleaned it up, my quill now moves smoothly as well. Many thanks.
Used a couple of neodymium magnets to hold mine in place, not as positive as the drill and tap dance but works. Also too lazy to fabricate a quill bracket from ally so designed and 3D printed one from carbon fibre PLA. Like your work by the way!
You love to make this videos, we love to watch, at least I do. Thank you for sharing your skills in hobbyist machining.
When your videos come out, they make my day. I always learn something. Thank you for making You Tube vids.
Nice job 👍
Tool post drilling for the win though 👌
Adding ammunition to my can: when the internal voice nags me “why are you keeping that?”, I’ll answer “cuz I may one day want to bolt it onto the lathe”. Nice
Toolception! Quinn, as a mechanical engineer (with a career mostly in plastic parts), I enjoy learning from your design process as much as I enjoy the machining and tooling stuff. This was great fun. Thank you!
Have you tried a chuck mounted as a tool on the carriage? Stefan G has some good videos on this, including free DRO and power feed. Multifix A is compatible up to MT3 drills.
This is the way 👍
Thank you for sharing your enviable skills. Always a treat and the highlight of my week ! Regards from Cape Town.
Enjoyed the video and thanks for the ideas, nice solution on the ejection mechanism. Everyone needs one of these at one time or anotherJust a note on that battery cover, I have one similar and it is a bear to work with, and small enough to get lost when dropped. This provoked me to make an over-sized button which is easy to hold on to and easier to return home on the battery space. Cheers!
Thanks!
That’s a neat accessory to have, I might have to do this too!
Good install, I don`t think I will add that to my BD920. With a lathe and a mill there is no limit to the tools and parts you can make.
Need more "Sprocket"! 😁
Quinn - what a great addition to your lathe. As always, you did a thorough job of covering each of the pertinent issues. Always a delight to watch your videos.
Excellent work as always. We shared this video on our homemade tool forum last week 😎
It is very practical and looks good too!, well done Quinn.
Thanks for the inspiriation, Quinn, and for pointing me to Presso's version for us non-squares. Wanting to add one to my Myford ML7. Do you think there should be allowance for quill twist under pressure? My 80 year old tailstock might be a tad less tolerance-aware compared to yours and Presso's idea of a pin to locate the dial might allow for some pressure twist in the quill. Don't know if your DRO has enough flex built in or if you should allow for axial movement in the mount for when things get serious, especially when the quill is not extended much and the angle of twist is greatest. Maybe not an issue but hard to tell without being hands on.
I need to make one of those now. Thanks!
Hello, thanks so much for all your videos. You mention saving the center for purposes such as straightening the screw. Is that something you could elaborate on, or do a video on? I have a drill press vise that I dropped...er I mean I torqued it too hard and one of the threaded rods in it is slightly bent. Thanks in advance for any thoughts.
Thanks for showing the modification to your tailstock. There's a more compact way to accomplish the same purpose if you're willing to seriously modify a four inch digital caliper. Basically you remove exterior and interior jaws and attach the head of the caliper to the ram. Mount the caliper to the top of the tailstock and attach the movable head to the ram for a very compact depth gage for your tailstock.
Well done, super job
The color match with on the chuck tape is fantastic! Great video Quinn, I support our DRO minions, I mean they even put them on stoves. With the 3 pins trick, do the two larger bottom pins have to be the same diameter?
very good. I have been thinking about doing this, but by attaching a right angle bracket to the face of the quill ( drill and tap the end M4). Haven't done it yet in case it turns out to be a bad idea.
You lose access to the face of the quill then, which is a useful square reference
@@Blondihacks ah of course thanks.
Always especially satisfying to make such a significant improvement in something with parts and materials you already have lying around or re-purposed from something else. Well done!
What a beautiful shot @14:55. That was simply mesmerizing to watch.
Queue 22 minutes and 8 seconds of just Quinn squinting at us down a barrel
*_James Bond theme song intensifies_*
@@Rebar77_real "Today we'll be working on the Aston Martin ejector seat project...."
What a cool project! I love the ones that kinda have to build on themselves as you go, well done!
WHAT!!!! i’m in the shop right now and like to have random videos playing kinda as a background and am building a tailstock DRO when this video was recommended right now! what are the odds my I pad is watching me and decided to recommend your dro build as the 1st video of yours to be recommended to me in months? so weird… anyways I was wondering if you could possibly one day do a video on the difference between SFM vs. chipload speed/feed to possible help me understand why I have such a hard time with small hole machining? love your vids!
HI Quinn, I did the same thing, I was always getting in the way. there must be something that can be done to connect to the lathe DRO.
I used to work with centrifuges and developed "Righty releasey, lefty locky because they tend to be left handed
Sometimes I do wonder how they design and make the original castings for those parts. Presumably you could still do it at home, but it would be a rather large cast and to do it with cast iron instead of like aluminum would take a lot of heat. You would also need a much larger set of machines to machine it square and concentric with the spindle etc. It would be interesting to see if a RUclipsr has attempted to make one just for fun
The closest to that would be the Gingery book series. He shows you how to build a machine shop from first principles. A couple of RUclipsrs have followed his books. His machines are aluminum though. Casting iron is very very serious business and you need special facilities and very serious safety gear. You need to know what you are doing and it is not for amateurs.
There's a guy that has started producing new Ranalah "English wheels" (a tool for shaping car body panels), involving a very hefty iron casting that he got one of the last iron foundries in the UK to make. Fascinating stuff. He has a channel - Dominic Chinea.
Thanks Quinn
little epoxy in inclusion in top rt hole?? have an old Montgomery Wards - logan lathe just getting to know it.. good info on clamp fit enjoyed the build!!! have fun
I have watched a few of these and Quinn's version is the neatest so far.
I have a digital readout using an encoder contraption reading directly off the tailstock quill screw. It works well but is not backlash blind as opposed to using a scale. It is very compact though which is what I needed.
nice work!
simple digital verniers can also do wonders like this with some additional clamping aids may not be as good though. as accurate even on cheapest one to be 0.01. enlightened dear one. they all come with similar zero multi units type reading capabilities.
Fantastic - thanks! I'll add this to my list 😍
Nice job
Hello.
Incredibly beautiful quality you make, which is pampered for every detail.
But the way you mount your tallstock, couldn't it be mounted like this?
I use your drawing time 4.42..
Shaft (1) is screwed back to zero point. In housing (10), opposite no. 18, a 7 mm hole is drilled 4 mm from the inside edge, down through housing (10) into shaft (1).
Shaft (1) is removed and an 8 mm thread is made in the 7 mm hole.
In housing (10), the 7 mm hole is drilled up to 8 mm. The hole is filed up so that it becomes a U.
Shaft (1) is mounted again. A shaft with an 8 mm thread at the bottom and a 6 mm thread at the top for the tallstock, screwed down into the shaft (1) and finally the four holes and threads in the housing (10). Then the tallstock is ready for assembly .
I have great respect for what you do. so
This post is not to criticize your work.
Regards, Per Højlund
Denmark
The short one now is good, how does this affect your long ones?
For extra clamping, you could make the scale mounting screw do double duty as a grub screw.
I need advice im taking a dunlap 534.0601 wood lathe with morse taper no1 tailstock and headstock and putting the off the shelf metal turning accessories on it for model engineering, im buying the craftsman 4 jaw chuck, crossslide, cast faceplate,& motor countershaft i know its undersized for literally everything and technology wise pre civilwar since it has no change gears but im using it to teach myself how to machine before i start looking for that flat belt prewar monster with enough chuck clearance to fix my friends steam tractor and my horse drawn farm implements do you have any books,tools,etc from the civil war era that i should look for regarding machining with a lathe that has no power feed lead screw
Good luck and Godspeed
Great job. Thank you 😊
hi quinn,had the same problem with that different ejectionpoints of my tools on the tailstock.I solved it by adding material at the end of the"too short" tools so i didnt limit my travel on the other tools.Just spot-welded material onto the ends.Not the most professional way but at the time it solved the issue.Your solution is of course the more pro version.And the idea of putting a dro on it is well worth to think about.
I also have a few of the short taper tails that I have extended similar to how you have done it.
Very nice fit.
Straight forward, usable, clean and simple solution. 👍🏻👍🏻
Some good precision eyeballing here 👍
Nice addition
Nice install, Quinn!
Would you mind sharing the spec. for the scale you installed? After watching your video, I’m motivated to do this on my lathe.
Thanks!
-Robert
A must have which I must do. 👏👏👍😀
Excellent!
Thanks very much. 😊
Looks a very good solution to your accurate depth setting problem Quinn,well done.👍👍
An admittedly dumb question (to feed the voracious YT algorithm monster 🐉): Is the scale mechanism on the DRO similar to the scale mechanism on most hand held digital calipers?
Yes, magnetic scale readout much the same as a digital caliper.
Hi Quinn, I’m curious on where you got that small live center, seems like it would be quite a useful tool :) also really enjoyed the video (as always)
Julian :)
Scunge, eh? Going to be getting into some yellow chemistry soon?
"Metric Horns of Victory!" HaHAHaHA! I love you! Never change! o7
This girl know how to do that stuff. 😃
12:22 - oooh, congratulations! Who's the lucky person? ;) ;)
Very good.
Does your tailstock crank handle have a scale on it ?
More than likely it does and more than likely it doesn't have a resettable zero
@ my lathe has both inch and metric collar and can be reset. I am not motivated to modify it. Cross slide and bed were no brainers.
12:21
Quinn is making a clamp.
My thoughts went along with mr. Superfastmatt and how he would have approached the situation.
...oh, a ring. She tried it on her ring finger.
Looks awesome, nice work!
wow, very nice
I love when those numbers number
The Canadian accent sneaking in here and there makes me smile
What accent? She sounds accent-free to those of us in Winnipeg. 😉
Cool trick with the 3 dowels, and thanks for the tip to extend the ejection pin on the tailstock screw - I need to do that to mind even without the clamp there. I ruined a keyless chuck by bopping it with a hide hammer trying to get it out. I guess I should have disassembled the tailstock from the rear but didn't think of it at the time! The chuck still works, but it don't feel right.
I vote in favor of cross slide drilling 😊
Really nice work. I'm no machinist but have been toying with possibility of getting a lathe and mill to learn. Your videos are a great tutorial. Thanks.
Just commenting to feed the algorithm Quinn. Best Wishes to You and Your Family.
Inspiring! I want to do this to my PM1022. Think I might swap my 2-axis DRO for a 3 and add it there! Sweet! Oh, and I am also wanting a rotary table now!
The only drawback might be a dead battery jusssssst when you're in a hurry to get that so-important-part 😂😂😂 otherwise, nice project as usual !
I was literally about to do the same to my tailstock. I have the same problem with no stick out. Now I hope I can use the same solution. Thanks Quinn!
Quinn, are those "readers" outside the safety squints? I've not found a perfect solution for prescription safety glasses within a reasonable budget. Great build video as usual, plus the dry humor!
zenni has prescription safety glasses with side shields for $30 plus whatever prescription extras (although they might be us only, and you need to scroll down to the footer menu to find them)
@@magic-gps186 Thx, I have a pair of single strength safety from them, they work for most shop work (18"-36" from the eyeballs). When I got them, they did not offer bifocal or progressive. It's been a while, maybe they offer that now. They are not cheap like readers, but much cheaper than progressive lenses for my every day glasses. I just looked, and it seems that there are new players in the prescription safety glasses game, now they have progressive lenses in wrap-around style.
I need to do this, great timing!
Great video, as always.
Suggestion if you find that the current DRO stack-up seems to be too tall: you should be able to get rid of the plastic backing of the DRO (or maybe replace it with a 1/16" piece of plastic) as that is just a piece of plastic to keep everything from falling apart in normal operation. If you get rid of that plastic back and the aluminum block you should be able to drop the whole thing by about 1/2".
How much wiggle do you have in your tail stock RAM? On my 7-in lathe it seems excessive and I would love to know how to fix that
Great job 👍
Look at you with your trust bearing equipped tailstock. Me and my $600 CAD Atlas 10F are jealous ;)
Just for others info as you've already done it. My tailstock DRO (capacitive scale) read head is kept in place with an old hard drive magnet glued in the mounting plate - no drilling required in the tailstock casting. A ball bearing glued into the centre drilling of centres also extends the ejection point.
Thumbs up 👍 at opening! Good stuff Quinn
I so look forward to every Saturday. It’s always funny and seeing you make something from nothing with or without skill 😂 amazes me.
17:29 Amazing to see you taking shortcuts! I normally expect that you would never take a shortcut that would affect dimensional accuracy. It's nice to do things differently from time to time. I always enjoy your narrated process.
P.S. I laughed at the ring gag. Anything is a toy if you play with it!
Gotta get a carriage drilling adapter
Nice
Another great video , thank you Quinn
Neat set up! I did a similar tailstock DRO install relatively inexpensive digital caliper. It was a pretty easy fit on my PM 1130V.
Nice work Quinn. I would think about a cover (clear hinged plastic maybe or perhaps a drop on box) to protect the little screen and the buttons while you don't need the DRO function. Cheers
Great idea and great execution - like always