Tools That I Probably Shouldn't Have Bought
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 22 сен 2024
- This episode on Blondihacks, I’m talkin' tool regrets! Exclusive videos, drawings, models & plans available on Patreon!
/ quinndunki
Have questions? Try my FAQ! blondihacks.co...
I would like to acknowledge that my shop sits on the traditional, ancestral, unceded territory of the local First Nations people.
Here are links for many of the tools that you see me using:
(I earn small commissions on these links)
• Shrum Solutions face mill: www.shrumsolut...
• 6mm CCMT Boring Bar | Shrum Solutions: www.shrumsolut...
• D. Gray kits for the home shop : d-gray-draftin...
• Mill clamping set : amzn.to/2xc9vqr
• Chamfering Tool : amzn.to/2IJsAUs
• Zero Flute Chamfering Tool : amzn.to/3bmPLPe
• NOGA Deburring set : amzn.to/2Jv3RlW
• NOGA Reversible Deburring Tool : amzn.to/2X07WX1
• Knurling Tool : amzn.to/2FblXb1
• Tapered Reamer : amzn.to/2Gn0b3G
• Chucking Reamer set : amzn.to/3odnVvh
• Nicholson files : amzn.to/2VcHkls
• Nicholson needle files : amzn.to/2BDt7ph
• 1-2-3 Blocks : amzn.to/2EvAsGq
• Dormer center drills : amzn.to/2X7U6ij
• 6” Divider : amzn.to/2GTncM3
• NOGA arm with magnetic base : amzn.to/2U2bGTI
• NOGA arm Big Boy : amzn.to/381acji
• Collet Block set : amzn.to/2UkF1vZ
• DeWalt drill and driver kit : amzn.to/2Gp6IeJ
• DeWalt portable band saw : amzn.to/2U4Mhsw
• DeWalt band saw blades : amzn.to/2H2J4X0
• High Speed Steel parting blade : amzn.to/2YcdYBv
• High Speed Steel blade holder : amzn.to/2JgO0IK
• High Speed Steel tool blanks : amzn.to/2H1qoqr
• Grizzly Pre-ground tool bits : amzn.to/2H4yr5z
• AXA tool holders : amzn.to/2V1gOHl
• Quick Change Toolpost : amzn.to/310mshq
• Norton oil stone kit : amzn.to/2EbLEH3
• Norton small sharpening stone: amzn.to/2PQwex9
• End mills : amzn.to/2U76Vsf
• Milling machine starter pack : amzn.to/2tA2M4e
• Forceps : amzn.to/2Ww5dFT
• Mill Parallels : amzn.to/2lfW82i
• GearWrench ratcheting tap & die set : amzn.to/2lMwZfV
• Step bits : amzn.to/2q54yfJ
• Starrett automatic center punch : amzn.to/2DCI7C9
• Budget transfer punch set : amzn.to/2yfDgHi
• Precision shim stock : amzn.to/34lJlME
• Jet 2-ton press : amzn.to/2SLas1s
• Gear Wrench locking puller : amzn.to/2ubBV1W
• Starrett tap wrenches : amzn.to/35jxM9e
• Goldenrod oiler : amzn.to/2TTS0En
• Acid brushes : amzn.to/36qWCo5
• Cratex (Bright Boy) block : amzn.to/38fNm72
• Scotchbrite deburring wheel : amzn.to/3ks0P2V
• Fein Turbo I shop vac : amzn.to/2vXpech
• Machinist’s scale : amzn.to/2Zk6oVj
• Mixed metric/imperial dial caliper : amzn.to/2KKARYY
• Mitutoyo dial caliper : amzn.to/2IMIxJE
• Mitutoyo micrometer set : amzn.to/2GtICPx
• Mitutoyo depth micrometer : amzn.to/33M8aSH
• Mitutoyo edge finder : amzn.to/2G36omq
• Mitutoyo dial indicator : amzn.to/2H09gBr
• Mitutoyo dial test indicator : amzn.to/2E5lRQw
• Coaxial indicator : amzn.to/3bbBEwE
• Mitutoyo telescoping gauge set : amzn.to/2Z6houn
• Fowler dial bore gauge : amzn.to/2KQJNf2
• Fowler inside micrometer : amzn.to/2TVm7Jo
• Starrett 98-6 Level : amzn.to/38K7lMD
• Grizzly Height Gage : amzn.to/2PDTr7i
• Thread Checker : amzn.to/2CpvAUU
• The Amateur’s Lathe book : amzn.to/3jIYlwe
• Anchor Lube : amzn.to/2H9X6oQ
• Boeshield T-9 : amzn.to/2TCE0wB
• Brownell’s Oxpho Blue : amzn.to/2YhZTmR
• JAX Metal Blackener : amzn.to/2MVe8wj
• Dykem layout fluid : amzn.to/2U7KQts
• Dykem dauber : amzn.to/2uoXtbm
• Tap Magic cutting oil : amzn.to/3j8kNnR
• WD-40 : amzn.to/2GYV8rY
• Super 77 Spray Glue : amzn.to/2YScxZl
• Loctite 603 : amzn.to/2EYsPbi
• Loctite 242 : amzn.to/2RIt3sQ
• Way oil : amzn.to/38Gl9qW
• High pressure grease : amzn.to/2GloHTd
• CMD Extreme Pressure lube : amzn.to/36JPNy9
• Dry graphite lube : amzn.to/2U0YEZH
• 3-in-1 oil : amzn.to/36in43e
• Kroil : amzn.to/2uCf1RL
• Evaporust : amzn.to/36NSkII
• Brasso : amzn.to/3buE6yL
Commenting policy : blondihacks.co...
As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases.
Wisdom: "Then I understood the problem I was actually trying to solve." That's a level up right there!
That’s often the crux of it- the problem isn’t correctly identified before we start buying solutions.
There’s some test software I use, and the training starts with “know what you’re trying to measure before you start”.
There's a whole methodology developed from this insight: TDD or Test Driven Development.
I've found it works best for things like APIs or libraries. The process of writing the test illuminates the problem space surprisingly well making the implementation much more straight forward.
My favorite saying is “It is not enough to do your best. You must first know what to do, and THEN do your best.”
This is the kind of content no company would sponsor (for obvious reasons lol) but is invaluable to a newbie. Thanks for another great video!
Good comment on the distinction between a tool being a "poor match for the work you do" and being a "bad tool".
As a resident of Kansas I appreciate the ballast otherwise useless cast iron tools provide against the shop blowing away in a tornado.
I agree with you 100 percent. I also have a 4" rotary table, fortunately I did not purchase it. I opted for the 8" table, but my mill is a little larger. But boy is it heavy. Great video for budding home machinists.
Wisdom often comes moments after you need it.
A master machinist once told me " You can do little work on a big machine, but you can't do big work on a little machine ."
Oh that 4 inch rotary table is cute! What is it going to be when it geows up?
Love your channel ❤️
Buying tools and using tools are two separate hobbies.
I feel attacked!
I might need these tools one day. And the new design is better.
shhhhhh. The missus is sitting right here
6" really is the sweetspot for hobby milling in my eyes, Rotary table, vise, calipers
I think at this point Quinn has copy-pasted "I use the V-blocks all the time. It's the U-clamps that are useless." About 5 times now by my count. It's the U clamps people!
my v-blocks with saddle clamps now live on my metal cutting bandsaw table, after I learned that trick & was astonished at my ignorance in trying to hold a piece of round stock between my fingers (while it would invariably spin out on me) or with a vise grip pliers.
Regarding buying good quality: The first time I used hand files that were actually sharp instead of my dad's that have been rattling in their drawer for 30 years was a revelation!
Thank you, this was helpful. I've been pondering buying a set of the V-blocks with clamps and one of the reasons I haven't was the clearance issue you spoke about.
Thanks again for sharing this with us.
Hi Quinn, your absolutely correct about vee block straddle clamps. They also stop you laying the vee block on it's side without elevating it on parallels..
Schedule filler?
HA!
I scoff at that suggestion.
Actually very useful information.
Quack to Swarfy, THANKS, and Meow to Sprocket.
I went the opposite route on my rotary table. I thought a 10 inch would be good for my 18 inch round column mill. Found one on eBay that was local pickup (still 80 miles away). I realized I was in trouble when the guy loaded it into my pickup with a forklift. Turns out it was advertised incorrectly and was actually a 12 inch Enco indexing table weighing about 300 pounds. Used an engine hoist to put it on my mill to find that it hits the column well before the spindle reaches the center of the table. I still have it hoping that someday I will buy a mill that will handle it. I use an 8 inch rotary table most of the time.
“Definitely not schedule filler” LOL
Thank you for another content rich and delightfully humorous video. As a septuagenarian hobby machinist I have but one thing to say on the subject of unused tools, you got off easy.
Cheers,
F.C.
Schedule filler or not, I'm glad you made that video.
You are so right! I think a fair bit of this comes from old workshop practice, books I have show processes which use many traditional tools which I thought I would need but that I have rarely if ever used. My milling vice came with a swivel base, I placed it on the mill and thought “where has all my headroom gone?” Vee-blocks’ clamps and a scriber mounted in a stand done all of that.
Note to self, must try an expensive end mill. (None seem cheap to me)
"All tools are beautiful" 😂 i love you Quinn
Being a machinist for almost 40 years, I can confirm what she's said here, with a couple of caviates about V-blocks. You have to have the correct type for the job at hand, which would be based on what you're doing. Where I've used them the most is doing die and mold work on the surface grinder, which would probably be well outside the scope of what most people are doing for a hobby.
To be clear, I use V blocks all the time. It’s the U-clamps that are useless.
@@Blondihacks That would go back to type. I've got 3 styles myself, 2 from Starret and a cheap pair I bought for one small production run at a former employer. Both the Starret's are the type where the clamps are below the surface of the blocks so you can use them in multiple positions. One set of two are a matched set, approx. 2×3×3, the other is what I would call a "pin block" due to it almost being mandatory for working with headed ejection pins for molds, as well as headed punches for stamping dies. The thing of it is, I'm now a CNC machinist in a job shop, and none of them have come out of the box in almost a decade. When you have a programmable 4th axis on every machine, you don't need them. Same for my collet blocks. That being said, I'm not getting rid of any of them, because I'd like to get a couple of machines for home again (last small shop setup had to go to try and keep the house awhile back).
Absolutely no shade, I assume you've only heard the word not spelt it, but caveat is the commonly accepted spelling.
@@PheonixRise666 Thanks for the clarification. I thought he had some V blocks that had small air bubbles exploding into them somehow while they were submerged. Silly me
I wanted to borrow my dad's V blocks and he told me to make my own. I made a pair but only one clamp. That was in the 1980s and I've never had a need for a second clamp. After I left the factory environment I've used them as a third hand for soldering wires on various round connectors more than anything else.
Thanks so much for sharing your experiences. I'm sure you have saved many people a lot of money, and frustration!
Why not mount that little chuck to the little rotary table? It might not make it more useful but it will look really cute.
and will be ready for the time you want to machine gears.
@@belair_boy6035 Nah. For gears you really need a dividing head. Rotary tables don't accurately (and repeatably) index... dividing heads do.
@@ratdude747 you can mount disc divider on some rotary table (like the vertex hv4/6). But a dividing head is more usefull for gears (less obstrusive).
@@martinchabot_FR Did not know that. I've always seen them as two different mill accessories.
@@ratdude747 all three of my rotary tables have dividing discs on them, but I agree that they are not ideal for gear cutting, without one. Another option would be to put on a stepper motor and an electronic division counter.
So funny to see that the mighty Quinn has the same collection of unused tools that I have. The only exception being the 4" rotary table, which is perfect for my Sherline mill.
Great video, as always, Quinn! I learned the sizing issue right off the bat with my little mill. I ordered a 6" vice to start with, left me with no verticle movement, as well as the fact that it wasn't properly able to be mounted! 4" will do the trick! Nope! The three inch vice was all my mill can handle as it turns out! Thanks for the awesome information!
Make an adapter plate for your small rotary table and mount a 3 or 4 jaw chuck on it. Uses for it will magically materialize.
The lamp shading made me laugh but id take schedule filler over no Blondihacks any Saturday.
Good one on the rotary table and I find myself using V-Blocks mostly for endwork on round stuff.
I might have to digg trough my shop for tools that i should not have bought.. :D
Yah I actually use my V-blocks a lot, it’s just the U-clamps that I find useless
You are a very good instructor Quinn. Thanks again for Your time and effort to share the knowledge.
Best Wishes to You, Your Family and Friends..
I have the exact opposite problem of that 4 inch rotary table. I have a 15 inch Bridgeport rotary table that I got with my Bridgeport mill. I can't lift it by myself and need an engine hoist to lift that monster onto the mill. I will definitely be getting a smaller one in the future.
No lift here, and usually no one else around. I have to move my
12 incher myself.
I just last week drug my little 4 inch rotary table out of hiding and made a 6 inch fixture plate for it after watching you make one . Looks like it will work great ! If I use it ...
I wish. I saw this sooner. I have made several of those mistakes.. 4" Rotary table.. YUP! Great Vid. Thank you
Thanks for the video! If you ever add a surface grinder to your shop, you will find those v-blocks extremely useful.
I use V blocks all the time. It’s the U clamps that are useless.
@@Blondihacks oooo I see. I have only really used them standing up. Thanks again! I really love this channel!
The 80mm chuck can be friends with the 4" rotary table.
Yup , have a garage full of "Positively Couldn't Live Without it" .
😂 Me too. I have a problem with buying tools for things/problems that I might encounter, some day, maybe...
@@aaronleiter9009 I have purchased tools , then figure out a project for it . I look at some tools like , oh my I must buy it , lol
I had the exact same issue with the swivel base. The thing is in a cabinet and hasn't seen the light of day since maybe around 2011. I also agree on 6" being an optimal size for a rotary table. Big enough for most things I need it for, small enough for my aged, injured ass to lift.
Snap, made the same mistake with buying a small tilting rotary table for my small mill (Warco WM12), now on to the 6" Vertex which is much better and like your mill is a perfect fit for the machine
The only thing I heard from the rotary table issue is that size does indeed matter 😂
but also here there can be a "too big"
That's what she said... XD
Isnt it a idea to make a ball turner for the lsthe out of the small rotary table?
I use my V blocks mostly for metrology purposes at the surface plate. I've also designed and built some CMM fixtures for production parts using them. When you need them they are exactly the right tool, the rest of the time they patiently wait in their case, we'll oiled.
I use my vee blocks. It’s the U-clamps that are useless
@@Blondihacks I think that’s what the U stands for in U-Clamp
A "fractal vise"?
Very happy with myself that I understood "the delicious sounding constant"
That collet locking ring is what I like to call cheese metal
Think the rotary I bought was 5" or 6", reason I don't remember is because I still made a aluminium fixture plate out of a round 20mm thick 8(ish) diameter plate 'scrap', which made it way more useful(using sacrificial mdf or plywood plates on top of that machined to fit the part makes it even more useful) side note: old brake disks makes for epic and huge fixture-plate upgrades to a rotary table.
Have actually used the v-blocks Io got when I was starting out a few times, but on their side in a vise for larger diameter round-stock that needed flats or ends machined in some way.
Only regret I have about choosing ER collet blocks over 5c is that I wish I had gotten ER40 or 50 rather than ER32(although the 1mm dimensional leeway for each collet size is still very useful even in ER32, just have to turn a 20mm sacrificial nubin on the part to hold it)
You can mount the 4" rotary table to the 6" for some home-brew 5 axis shenanigans
Thank you for the rotary table wisdom. I would have made that mistake just like the pipe holding V blokes which i use only to square up my tool post on the lathe when i should have got 1 to 3 blocks 🤦♂lol.
Your rotary table versus the rotary table she tells you not to worry about
Wow, I use my swivel base frequently. I also spent more time dialing it in than creating chips. But, then I discovered the value of tapered registration holes......
I had the thought that perhaps the V-block strap clamps could be used for temporarily holding a part in the V-block while other workholding is being changed so you don't lose the part's rotational position. It is a bit of a stretch though.
Great info thanks. I'm getting ready to buy these tools. Now I know what to get.
Great video. Fortunately I chose 8" rotary table and I did not regret. But the rest of the items were in my bucket list for shopping. Now after the video it is really obvious that I am only that hobby machinist, that makes same mistakes that all hobby machinist do.
You have a well equiped shop when you can not find more than four things in the MSC Catalog that you don't need and can't use, but would really like to have.
On a more serious note, for small endmills, rather than buying HSS or even coated endmills, go the extra cost of solid cabide. Pays off in the long-term unless you have a costly tool grinder and lots of time to enjoy using it.
I have the same 4-inch rotary table, and I bought it for the same rationale. I have regretted it ever since. I had to manufacture a round aluminum fixture plate to attach it to my rotary table to expand it to a six-inch work surface to make it usable.
The v block / u clamp is very useful in my shop at the slow grinder! Resharpening or modifying small carbide boring bars or undercut tools and similar
I think small V blocks are creatures of layout, not machining. In the early days of accurate machining (and rather more recently for amateurs) a lot of work was marked accurately (to the nearest 1/100") using surface plate, squares, scribes and surface gauges. Flat stock was fixed to angle plates, and round stock was held in V blocks. Actual cutting was done working to the lines.
If you're using a mill with engraved handwheels, or a DRO, this is ... not needed. Modern layout is done with a rule and a sharpie, just to avoid bozo errors.
In the modern world, V blocks are used to hold big ol' drive shafts (and hydraulic rams). Over at CEE Curtis uses V blocks quite routinely.
I use V blocks all the time. It is the U clamps that are useless.
@@Blondihacks Apols. I (badly!) misunderstood your point
"But it was on sale!" The bane of my extra space.
I have a 6" Vertex... works great, and the dividing options are almost infinite. My mill is bigger than yours, so it fits OK... But you are right, it's as heavy as sin and I haven't used it much.....
Those lock rings, just deep case harden them..... 🙂
Very interesting. Thanks.
I bought the harbor freight mini Mill with an r8 spindle and went on Amazon to buy my tools including a r8 boring head, while it does fit into my machine and I only have about an inch of travel
Someone send Quinn some toolbox stickers, that poor box is running around half naked!
The inside lid is full actually so they have spread to the outside 😬
i got a 12" rotary table that has an mt3 taper in the middle- and i use that taper to allign stuff very often,very usefull,only drawback, exept the weight, is that i cant mount it vertically - but yes, it's pretty heavy - but i also got a 6"
I have two 6 inch rotary tables, a 10 inch and a 20 inch troyke rotary... the size difference and weight are no joke for sure
I’m fixating on that lovely burn mark on your bench. I need to know the story behind that.
I had to go check what size my rotary table is... 8". yes, it is about all I want to ever lift by hand. I made a small scale gantry crane with unistrut to deal with it and occasional other heavy things.
Pi are round , corn bread are square !
Oh gawd, I could put that 4" rotary table to use right now! Send it to me!
Actually this was the most useful vid to me from You ever.
I´m just that guy, I got myself a Wabeco xy drillpress so I could (maybe) do milling things, they even have a lathe thingy for the Wabeco system.
So: I have a little, all wooden attic I can´t use in summer because of the heat and it sucks in winter, too. Basically I have one, two months per year I can do stuff comfy. And I CRAVE a lathe. I´m that guy that´s always broke but isn´t a junkie who so bad would like to get into being able to do stuff myself that it hurts.
Anyways: Kind Regards
Excellent video! I wonder if the buttery collet block lock ring could be easily hardened? It's to late for yours, but on future el-cheapo hardware purchases maybe?
4" rotary table is perfect for mounting to a sine plate
Been here done this LOL Thanks Quinn Keep up all the amzing video!!
For what it's worth, I use an 8" rotary table on my Sieg X2. There's just enough space to center to mill spindle over the rotab spindle, and enough Y travel to reach the back edge. This is useful for some things, but clearly not ideal. The 5" is an ideal size for the x2 in my humble opinion.
I have run into that collet ring issue in a lot of cheaply made stuff that may or may0not be from China. It sounds like sometimes the parts miss a hardening step. I bought some brad-point drill bits that immediately untwisted themselves into 2 flute cutters.
I have a reasonably large collection of woodworking tools that fit that category. I still try to use them, because i have them, but generally speaking... they're not for what I do.
Very insightful. Thank you.
I thought you made a rotary table fixture plate. Wouldn't one set the size of the fixture plate to match the desired work envelope? A 4 inch rotary table with a 6 inch plate? Great video. Cheers.
Great video, if only it had been around 18 months ago. I too have v- block clamps only used once :-(
Great job. Thank you 😊
13:11 The first thread I ever single point cut was to make a new locking ring for a collet block from some 4140. The stock locking rings are so bad, the holes for the collet wrench wallow out so fast and you are just unable to tighten then enough anymore.
That’s a great project idea
Before we got 4th axis’ for the cnc (which are 1m in diameter)
We had a big old manual rotary which was 24”. Big girl that was. 😂
I've got a set of those v-blocks and clamps (came with the mill) and I've always looked at them and wondered when I'd use them, a bit like you I'm yet to find the situation....
Glad the algorithm gave me your video today, I’m subscribed with the bell but haven’t been getting your notifications lately. Thanks as always for the video
Just unsubscribe and subscribe again.
Darn! All the things I bought when I got the mill.
Great vid as always. One question though. How much should I spend on a small rubber duck?
Whether it's schedule filler or not, I always look forward to my Saturday Blondihacks video 😁
This content really cleared things up!
I bought a Vertex 10" for my Baileigh VMD-932G vertical mill. I struggled in choosing the right size and end up defaulting to bigger is better. Yes, it's heavy, but I won't out grow it.
And here I thought Swarthy was a big fan of Chops.
That small rotary table is screaming out for a chuck to be fitted to it, you would use it a lot then! Put that small chuck on it!
I was going to buy a 6 inch rotary table and a great deal came up for an 8 inch one and I grabbed it. I call my neighbor to help me put it on the mill table safely😂😂😂.
I ended up using my 3" 3 & 4 jaw chucks as vises for holding weird parts on the drill press.
Can the small rotary table square be mounted on the big one? Handomatic 5-axis milling...
Very useful information.
If you want a quick and dirty calculation for comparing the surface area of round things, I use it for pizza, just do the ratio of their diameter squared. 6/4 = 1.5, 1.5^2 = 2.25 so it's 2.25x larger
That's not quick and dirty, it is simply the mathematical outcome of dividing πr^2 by πR^2 (r and R being the two radii). The π is eliminated and r^2/R^2 can be rewritten as (r/R)^2. And of course in this case it does not matter if you use radius or diameter because you're using the ratio of the two.
@@wouterbaake7386 Yes, that's the math behind it, but it's quick and dirty for pizza ratios because crust comes into play. Next time I'll walk people through the equations.
Damn! I wish I had seen that a few year ago......The only difference for me was that i bought a rotary table too big , hence to darn heavy!
Yay!! It's Blondihacks time!!!
I'm pretty much going to agree with the exception of cheap vs expensive end mills/collet blocks. I have a cheaper set of collet blocks and expensive end mills and cheaper end mills. While the expensive end mills definitely have their place so do cheaper end mills, I purchase nicer end mills when the price is allowing it but I also buy roughing end mills and cheaper end mills for roughing stuff in, Life of the end mills vs price vs regrind. I'm not going to bother getting a cheap end mill reground and a cheap carbide end mill has a fair amount of life in them and then switch over to a high grade end mill for finishing cuts.
Cheap collet blocks, first set found the round filing cabinet, no where near ground to the proper angles on the outside and center was off.
Shared hindsight.. two out of three here as well
Isn't it amazing the lessons we need to learn to obtain wisdom? I have a full set of 1/2 wide parrells that i think i used twice over the past 20 some years. What abgreat video. Thanks Quin.
Thank you Quinn for a very educational video.
I also bought a pair of V blocks and I agree that they are not used much.
This is the first video that has popped up in quite some time.
Are you doing weekly videos????
I’ve done a video nearly every week for five years. You can see that in the list of videos on my channel
I paused and had a think after the introduction: my v-blocks with saddle clamps (never used), and my 4" rotary table (used once, vertically, balanced on top of a bunch of 1-2-3 blocks to give clearance while doing starting cuts on a worm wheel) were my first two thoughts. Delighted to see both subsequently featuring.