I always enjoy watching manual machine work. I work around cnc lathes and mills daily. At home I have antique machines and actually love to feel the part I'm making. You can feel the cutter and the metal cutting. And as far as accuracy, you can do both ways just as acute if you know your machine 😉.
PLEASE don't take this the wrong way. I started watching you because you were doing all these things that I could do myself. I don't have the equipment, but the process works with almost any manual process. I love the CNC work, and I'm happier than ever that Booth Machine Shop is a going concern. But it's not the same. So I am very happy that you mix in the manual machining as well. The variety and the decision making keep it very interesting, and I look forward every week. Please, keep doing your thing. I'll continue to watch, whatever we happen to get.
I like your split screen approach. I tried that, thought it looked great, but my viewers didn’t seem to think much of it. I think the two perspectives really shows a lot more of what is going on.
It was very kind of you to make that part for Jeff. That lathe might have been made during WW II so there won't be a lot of them still around. That was a fun video to watch to see how much effort it takes to make one little part.
I really like all of your content. Both the manual machining and the CNC. Keep it up, don't pay any attention to the wrinkled old prunes whining in the comments.
Great to have the drawing to talk to. Even though as you say not necessary to make the part, it certainly adds to clarity when you are explaining to us what you are doing.
@@terryjennings2356 I'm sure he'll add that. If you want a professional title block with the bells & whistles, that takes time and knowledge that I'm sure Adam is not familiar with in Fusion or any other CAD program. I've created my own A thru F sized drawing formats from scratch in Solid Edge (Siemens), and it takes time to do it well.
The first thing I learned out of school was that there is no such thing as "standard drafting practices" lol. Every company I've ever worked for does it different. Some places put an exact tolerance on things if one is required, like for a press fit bearing, but otherwise it's just understood by the operator to get it close as possible. Others have a chart of standard tolerances for different applications/dimensions so that you don't have to waste time detailing them on every drawing.
@@terryjennings2356that is not needed for something this simple. He is just working to improve his cad and cam skills if it was actual production data thn you need it. This is just for fun. There is more data on that sheet than what you usually get anyways 🤷♂️.
or at the beginning! or anytime, actually sometimes i watch 5 or 6 of your earlier vids instead silly tv programs for an evening's entertainment/education rock on
Looks to have a similar thread cutting gearbox to my Colchester Student 1800, very easy to use. The caveat you should have added when you were checking for burrs with your finger, is that it helps to have finger tips like a Blacksmiths apron when doing that
I have a Lodge and Shipley Lathe that has a taper attachment on it but it is missing the piece that locks the taper attachment to the ways. I would try and make one for it but I have no idea what it looks like. If you would have a picture that would be great. Great informative video, thanks for doing it.
This is the first machining channel I started watching about 6 years ago. I like watching Adam work. I am curious how much production work Adam is actually doing these days. He used to machine 6’ long cylinders now he makes 6” long bolts. There is a lot expensive equipment in this shop - it just doesn’t seem to get much use. I personally like videos with fabrication and repairs he used to do.
We all have to evolve and adept at some time i been watching his vids for almost 10 years and theres so much you can learn in machining different kinds of parts never close your mind to any possibility of learning something new even if its not your cup of tea
I've learned there is never a one-off. Having a drawing of past work (hardcopy or softcopy) will help you when you get a request for this part or something similar in the future. Taking the time to make a dimensioned drawing has prevented a lot of mistakes that wasted time and materials.
Nice job sir. The part looks great and will certainly do the job. Also, great work on the video production. I always enjoy the close up stills too. Thanks!!
@@ericsandberg3167 ...and the tools need to be set up if the ones in the turret are not correct for the job, and then there is the trial or air cuts to prove the g code, some tweaks here and there, another proof pass and tada a part! Been there done that, like the manual machining better for all that. And if he didn't have to setup the cameras for specific shots, edit and/or reshoot, place titles within the flow of the video... come on, I like what he does, the way he does it, how and why he does what and when he does what he does, don't you? He is the cameraman, the editor, the director, the stunt man, the craft services person, the best boy, the grip... too many jobs to list, and for what? Just so we can sit, watch, comment and clap. I don't hear any claping from y'all. Now, what do you all have to say to that?
@@CothranMike I enjoy all of Adam's vids and can relate to them because I do both manual and CNC in my shop. I made the initial comment because he had already built the model in F360 and made the drawing as well, so a few more steps and he could bang one out on the Milltronics for comparison and as another learning exercise as well as more content on the CNC side that he is doing fantastic at.
@@ericsandberg3167 thank you, and I apologize for my snappy tone. My cats are being a bit creative in pestering me while I'm reading and commenting today, and I see comments which some folks are making and they set off a trigger, frankly, lack of editing in the comment, and I have read comments from this poster before which had clarity far above what he showed, again, thanks for your comment and again I apologize.
months ?? a ordinary bolt or all thread would have sufficed to use it to make one on the lathe its for . its just a stand of with a bose to rotate on when not in use to safe wear on the gear. the bose is to safe wear on the rotating . so if you dont rotate it cause its in use during that one job you could just bolt it on noting critical aslong as the gear is in nice contact with the leadscrew and when threading you start on the right numbers and if unsure what numbers use always the same. or dont disengage the halfnut 😉
@@cornnatron3030 two different thread pitches on each end of the all thread? amazing, next you'll be telling me a chunk of pipe works as a standoff. What about the nut and jam nut needed to screw this into the saddle body, and the two wrenches needed to tighten them. Come on, this is a functional part mirror made to order just as the sample, what is wrong with that? Oh, never mind, I see you were commenting on the person could be able to make his own part with a piece of all thread in this pinch. Gotcha, yes, it would be possible in fact to do this after you turn down the thread journal for the 3/8 dia and use a die for it as well, then you could do sorta what you indicated. Sorry, you just hit one of my triggers with your ill considered typos, lack of thought and no editing on your re-read of what you typed as your comment. PLease, do better, you can!
@@CothranMike well i speak and write 6 languages and english isnt my native tong and typos is the last thing im concerned about in a comment section. and i aint saying it should be the finished part its just so he can temporarily mount it so he could use it to do single point threading . to make the simple part that it is . would have been a nice and simple project to get familiar with his machine. learning and figuring out such things is part of being a machinist . cant always ask someone else what you need to make as setup to make a certain part ,you got to figure that out yourself. how long has adam been doing it and even he is still learning and figuring out such things.
When you were cutting and machining the heavy tubing for the weld shop, did they figure out why his bandsaw blade was snapping. I'm guessing that he was using the wrong blade set. You need the teeth further apart when cutting thicker materials. We had the same type of bandsaw where I used to work. We never noticed the supplier sent us a different blade that we usually ordered. The teeth were too close together and the steel had no room between the teeth before they exited the cut and would snap off the teeth. They would work fine on thinner materials.
I rather think the slot next to the nut for the dial to slide on - is to relieve oil and scum from the lathe that might get on - and the dial hole pushes it. Allows for a tight fit on the nut.
Is it worth sending a PDF of that drawing to Keith at Vintage Machine to put in his archives to help "the next guy" that might need the same part? Eventually alk these old machines are going to need parts built from scratch or repaired to nominal.
Great Video Adam, Just wondered why you threaded it with single point threading rather than using a die? Maybe just for our edification I suppose and you already had it in the lathe but surely threading the ends with a die as the final step would have been quicker and more accurate?
A die will not cut the full thread depth all the way to the thread relief groove. There will be some degree of taper in the threads, which unless you do some sketchy things will not allow the nut to fully seat. Is it quicker? Sure. Is it "more accurate" when considering machinist standards? Absolutely not. For a hobbyist, using a die would likely be fine. For a professional, who normally is measuring things to 0.001" or even 0.0001", it would be an insult to their profession.
Salut Adam merci pour cette nouvelle video. Il y a 1 mois, j'ai réalisé une pièce qui ressemble beaucoup à celle-ci. C'est une vis de 10 (pas métrique) d'un côté et qui fait axe de l'autre, elle tient le sélecteur de vitesses de ma moto. A l'origine, elle possède un six pans creux côté sélecteur, ce n'est pas simple à réaliser. J'ai donc fait une pièce qui possède un six pans de 17 mm au milieu comme celle que tu viens de réaliser. Les cotes sont assez précises chez yamaha, la partie axe du sélecteur doit faire 11;98 mm (!) et l'autre côté est à 1/10 mm près car le côté vis passe dans un sielnt-block dont le diamètre est exactement 10 mm.... J'ay suis arrivé et je n'ai plus de jeu avec mon sélecteur. Mais, j'ai rencontré le même problème pour faire le pas de vis avec la pointe du tour et la taille des outils. C'est vrai que j'avais coupé trop juste en longueur ma pièce avant usinage. Pour résoudre ce problème, j'ai trouvé une petite ralonge intéressante montée dans le mandrin de la poupée. J'ai pris un centreur de taraud télescopique qui possède une pointe fine de 4 mm de diamètre. J'avais ainsi assez de place pour ramener l'outil à fileter au départ. J'ai fait plusieurs pices, les suivantes je les ai coupées plus longues et j'ai coupé le bout à la fn de l'usinage. Mais j'ai rencontré ce problème plusieurs fois, surtout quand on ne dispose que d'un seul morceau de fer tout juste de la bonne longueur ! Peut-être existe-t-il des pointes fones encore plus longues ? Amitiés de FrancXris
I'm not a machinist. Please share why you turned the small diameter first. Would the outcome have been any faster if you had turned the larger diameter first? Also, if you scale the drawing to 2x, it will still fit on the page and eliminate the need for extra drawings. The larger size allows for dimensioning without the clutter.
The order of operations allows for a more rigid part during the single point threading. If it were all taken down to the smaller diameter, there could be more part deflexion.
@@zambootookabooky3725 I fully understand what you mean. However, I was thinking that if he turned the large diameter first, the amount of removed material would speed up the removal of the portion where the threads are. The change in material thickness for the larger diameter seems inconsequential for this part, and deflection wouldn't be an issue. Again, I'm an industrial engineer and not a machinist. Saving time means increased profit. Thanks for your insight.
Hi Adam, The part fit great, thanks for helping me out
@@jeffaddison6332 hey Jeff, I operate a 20” L&S standard at work and I love it. We also have a 36” Light pattern lathe that is a real beast!
Split screen is a very nice touch!
Really like the close up views and the split screens - works a treat!
Great video Adam, reminds me of your older videos. I love the manual stuff. Thanks.
Just another comment to say how much I enjoyed the split screen. All these years and I’ve never seen how you operated the controls. 👍🏻
The split screen is great catching all the action 👍
Love the CNC stuff. But really love the manual stuff. I’ve learned a lot from this channel and use it it my garage
I always enjoy watching manual machine work. I work around cnc lathes and mills daily. At home I have antique machines and actually love to feel the part I'm making. You can feel the cutter and the metal cutting. And as far as accuracy, you can do both ways just as acute if you know your machine 😉.
G'day Adam. Nice quick job, but very well explained for the first timer learning how it's done. Lots of passed on knowledge
Ted
Great project. You gotta put your mark on that part, and send the customer a copy of that drawing!
I like the split screen for the threading shots.... 🙂
Love the hands on videos as opposed to the cnc type videos.
Classic Adam Booth fit and finish. Top notch. It's always a treat to watch.
PLEASE don't take this the wrong way. I started watching you because you were doing all these things that I could do myself. I don't have the equipment, but the process works with almost any manual process. I love the CNC work, and I'm happier than ever that Booth Machine Shop is a going concern. But it's not the same. So I am very happy that you mix in the manual machining as well. The variety and the decision making keep it very interesting, and I look forward every week.
Please, keep doing your thing. I'll continue to watch, whatever we happen to get.
I like your split screen approach. I tried that, thought it looked great, but my viewers didn’t seem to think much of it. I think the two perspectives really shows a lot more of what is going on.
It was very kind of you to make that part for Jeff. That lathe might have been made during WW II so there won't be a lot of them still around. That was a fun video to watch to see how much effort it takes to make one little part.
right on! that drawing looked great! very cool stuff Adam!!
I really like all of your content. Both the manual machining and the CNC. Keep it up, don't pay any attention to the wrinkled old prunes whining in the comments.
Great Saturday Abom! Nothing compares to old style manual "Grandad Booth" machining.
Great job. I guess if owned machines I would have to mark the floor with the boundaries of the machine in all extensions of moving parts.
Great to have the drawing to talk to. Even though as you say not necessary to make the part, it certainly adds to clarity when you are explaining to us what you are doing.
This is the kind of video I like. Good job Adam
Fancy split screen action! 👏
The best of your videos are those with manual work. Like this one.
Adam, you definitely own the title of Uncle Machinist. I love seeing YT hosts bolster fans and if you keep it up, you will YT's gpaw machinist.
Great video Adam, good tip about working the fusion work into an existing project! Kevin definitely is a huge help!
Looks good! Hello from San Antonio, TEXAS!
I'm a Draftsman by trade. Not a bad print, you've got everything on there a machinist like yourself would need to create the part.
No tolerance specs though
@@terryjennings2356 I'm sure he'll add that. If you want a professional title block with the bells & whistles, that takes time and knowledge that I'm sure Adam is not familiar with in Fusion or any other CAD program. I've created my own A thru F sized drawing formats from scratch in Solid Edge (Siemens), and it takes time to do it well.
The first thing I learned out of school was that there is no such thing as "standard drafting practices" lol. Every company I've ever worked for does it different. Some places put an exact tolerance on things if one is required, like for a press fit bearing, but otherwise it's just understood by the operator to get it close as possible. Others have a chart of standard tolerances for different applications/dimensions so that you don't have to waste time detailing them on every drawing.
What about the projection. Is it first or third angle? The symbol should be on all drawings.
@@terryjennings2356that is not needed for something this simple. He is just working to improve his cad and cam skills if it was actual production data thn you need it. This is just for fun. There is more data on that sheet than what you usually get anyways 🤷♂️.
New part is better than the original
As always beautifully executed, this is great value machining techniques to novice machinists
Very nice work. These are my favorite videos. Thank you.
Enjoyed watching you make parts no matter how you get it done.
I enjoy your enthusiasm for learning new skills and I think you are going at it the right way you are interesting to watch
The casual display of skill here is so impressive. Really interesting to watch, thanks so much for posting!
Love the drawing….like to see you learning…truly is inspiring brother
GRACIAS POR UTILIZAR TORNO MANUAL ES MUCHO MÁS ENTRETENIDO!!👍🏻
If you’re going to make something make it beautiful and Adam does with his lathe work. Thanks Adam
Excellent manual machining!
Excellent work,Adam and great skills.Thank you.
Very nice Adam
That 1144 is lovely stuff to machine. Just tried it for the first time recently.
I enjoyed the split screen shots, first time i have seen what lining up the marks mean. Thankyou
Another awesome video from you Adam, keep them coming these are a great relaxing thing to watch at the end of the day!
or at the beginning! or anytime, actually sometimes i watch 5 or 6 of your earlier vids instead silly tv programs for an evening's entertainment/education
rock on
I just so love the manual machine's... CNC machine r pretty cool but the manual machine's are just the bomb...
Hi Adam
Great to see the centring chuck made in Sheffield England
See we can or used to make lovely things in the past👍
Great job keep it going
Byron
Congratulations you are a máster. I learn a lot with you. Greetings from Puerto Rico. I have a machine shop in my home.
CNC stuff is nice, but this is the stuff I enjoy watching most.... :-)
Looks to have a similar thread cutting gearbox to my Colchester Student 1800, very easy to use. The caveat you should have added when you were checking for burrs with your finger, is that it helps to have finger tips like a Blacksmiths apron when doing that
I have a Lodge and Shipley Lathe that has a taper attachment on it but it is missing the piece that locks the taper attachment to the ways. I would try and make one for it but I have no idea what it looks like. If you would have a picture that would be great. Great informative video, thanks for doing it.
This is the first machining channel I started watching about 6 years ago. I like watching Adam work. I am curious how much production work Adam is actually doing these days. He used to machine 6’ long cylinders now he makes 6” long bolts. There is a lot expensive equipment in this shop - it just doesn’t seem to get much use. I personally like videos with fabrication and repairs he used to do.
We all have to evolve and adept at some time i been watching his vids for almost 10 years and theres so much you can learn in machining different kinds of parts never close your mind to any possibility of learning something new even if its not your cup of tea
17:00 nice split screen👌🏻
Nice job, Adam! Be sure to save your drawings and programs. With nice documentation like you used, they might prove useful on future projects.
I've learned there is never a one-off. Having a drawing of past work (hardcopy or softcopy) will help you when you get a request for this part or something similar in the future. Taking the time to make a dimensioned drawing has prevented a lot of mistakes that wasted time and materials.
Very well done
Good explanatory video.
Thanks.
Great job Adam!!!
Loved this!
The imperial system is friendly as always. Very nice video.
Nice job sir. The part looks great and will certainly do the job. Also, great work on the video production. I always enjoy the close up stills too. Thanks!!
I love your videos and making it so so educational for us patzers! Thank you!
Thanks for sharing.
excellent work
Awesome video
Nice work! Love your assortment of tooling.
Nice work
Very good video!!!
Awesome project. Thanks for sharing the wealth! I learned a lot as a newbie.
Flawless execution! Cool little job showing different dimension targets. Nice job homie!👍
Nice work! Learned something new yet again.
It would be so cool to get that schematic with the small parts
Amazing work 🙌
Great video man. Enjoyed the split screen, i always love when CEE does those too!
my son in law was working at a shop in New Mexico where they had a 48 X 16ish Lodge and Shipley, that thing was BIG!
That is a 4 foot swing, 16 foot between centers right?
@@CothranMike yep
@@george-b3i-d2d Large & Shapely indeed!
Pretty cool work Mr Booth 🎉
Excellent job.
God bless you all Helene din't touch you👍
that is what we call....enlarging your knowledges
Once you had the drawing in Fusion 360 it is just a couple of more processes in manufacturing to convert to G code and use the CNC lathe.
I thought the same thing....knock one out on the Milltronics just to compare.
@@ericsandberg3167 ...and the tools need to be set up if the ones in the turret are not correct for the job, and then there is the trial or air cuts to prove the g code, some tweaks here and there, another proof pass and tada a part! Been there done that, like the manual machining better for all that. And if he didn't have to setup the cameras for specific shots, edit and/or reshoot, place titles within the flow of the video... come on, I like what he does, the way he does it, how and why he does what and when he does what he does, don't you?
He is the cameraman, the editor, the director, the stunt man, the craft services person, the best boy, the grip... too many jobs to list, and for what? Just so we can sit, watch, comment and clap. I don't hear any claping from y'all. Now, what do you all have to say to that?
@@CothranMike I enjoy all of Adam's vids and can relate to them because I do both manual and CNC in my shop. I made the initial comment because he had already built the model in F360 and made the drawing as well, so a few more steps and he could bang one out on the Milltronics for comparison and as another learning exercise as well as more content on the CNC side that he is doing fantastic at.
@@ericsandberg3167 thank you, and I apologize for my snappy tone. My cats are being a bit creative in pestering me while I'm reading and commenting today, and I see comments which some folks are making and they set off a trigger, frankly, lack of editing in the comment, and I have read comments from this poster before which had clarity far above what he showed, again, thanks for your comment and again I apologize.
@@ericsandberg3167 Good Idea, let's see that.
Hi Adam. I hope you and your family are okay after the hurricane blew through Florida. 😊
Nice job!
Nicely done Adam. Sorry been in rehab for two and a half months, trying to catch up
It's amazing how with a few hours and a couple tool swaps you have a part that would take months if it were even possible to find one.
months ?? a ordinary bolt or all thread would have sufficed to use it to make one on the lathe its for .
its just a stand of with a bose to rotate on when not in use to safe wear on the gear. the bose is to safe wear on the rotating . so if you dont rotate it cause its in use during that one job you could just bolt it on noting critical aslong as the gear is in nice contact with the leadscrew and when threading you start on the right numbers and if unsure what numbers use always the same.
or dont disengage the halfnut 😉
@@cornnatron3030 two different thread pitches on each end of the all thread? amazing, next you'll be telling me a chunk of pipe works as a standoff. What about the nut and jam nut needed to screw this into the saddle body, and the two wrenches needed to tighten them. Come on, this is a functional part mirror made to order just as the sample, what is wrong with that?
Oh, never mind, I see you were commenting on the person could be able to make his own part with a piece of all thread in this pinch. Gotcha, yes, it would be possible in fact to do this after you turn down the thread journal for the 3/8 dia and use a die for it as well, then you could do sorta what you indicated.
Sorry, you just hit one of my triggers with your ill considered typos, lack of thought and no editing on your re-read of what you typed as your comment. PLease, do better, you can!
@@CothranMike well i speak and write 6 languages and english isnt my native tong and typos is the last thing im concerned about in a comment section.
and i aint saying it should be the finished part its just so he can temporarily mount it so he could use it to do single point threading . to make the simple part that it is .
would have been a nice and simple project to get familiar with his machine.
learning and figuring out such things is part of being a machinist .
cant always ask someone else what you need to make as setup to make a certain part ,you got to figure that out yourself.
how long has adam been doing it and even he is still learning and figuring out such things.
Thanks!
Adam, why don´t you use a DCMT cutter? You would not run permanently into clearence issues with your live centers.
Very nice work sir
When you were cutting and machining the heavy tubing for the weld shop, did they figure out why his bandsaw blade was snapping. I'm guessing that he was using the wrong blade set. You need the teeth further apart when cutting thicker materials. We had the same type of bandsaw where I used to work. We never noticed the supplier sent us a different blade that we usually ordered. The teeth were too close together and the steel had no room between the teeth before they exited the cut and would snap off the teeth. They would work fine on thinner materials.
Awesome 👏
Like always jam up Adam, enjoy the manual machining
Thanks for sharing 💪
I rather think the slot next to the nut for the dial to slide on - is to relieve oil and scum from the lathe that might get on - and the dial hole pushes it. Allows for a tight fit on the nut.
6:14 Why don’t used the TN or VN inserts? That can solve this problem .
Those triangle inserts will fit right in next to a live center.
For my own learning what calculations or rule of thumb for depth and width of thread relief and also radius.
Could use a hear treatment?
Adam, great video. Really thought the split screen during the threading portion was very beneficial to me.
Is it worth sending a PDF of that drawing to Keith at Vintage Machine to put in his archives to help "the next guy" that might need the same part? Eventually alk these old machines are going to need parts built from scratch or repaired to nominal.
Great Video Adam,
Just wondered why you threaded it with single point threading rather than using a die? Maybe just for our edification I suppose and you already had it in the lathe but surely threading the ends with a die as the final step would have been quicker and more accurate?
A die will not cut the full thread depth all the way to the thread relief groove. There will be some degree of taper in the threads, which unless you do some sketchy things will not allow the nut to fully seat. Is it quicker? Sure. Is it "more accurate" when considering machinist standards? Absolutely not.
For a hobbyist, using a die would likely be fine. For a professional, who normally is measuring things to 0.001" or even 0.0001", it would be an insult to their profession.
Nice!! 🙂
Salut Adam
merci pour cette nouvelle video.
Il y a 1 mois, j'ai réalisé une pièce qui ressemble beaucoup à celle-ci. C'est une vis de 10 (pas métrique) d'un côté et qui fait axe de l'autre, elle tient le sélecteur de vitesses de ma moto.
A l'origine, elle possède un six pans creux côté sélecteur, ce n'est pas simple à réaliser.
J'ai donc fait une pièce qui possède un six pans de 17 mm au milieu comme celle que tu viens de réaliser.
Les cotes sont assez précises chez yamaha, la partie axe du sélecteur doit faire 11;98 mm (!) et l'autre côté est à 1/10 mm près car le côté vis passe dans un sielnt-block dont le diamètre est exactement 10 mm....
J'ay suis arrivé et je n'ai plus de jeu avec mon sélecteur.
Mais, j'ai rencontré le même problème pour faire le pas de vis avec la pointe du tour et la taille des outils.
C'est vrai que j'avais coupé trop juste en longueur ma pièce avant usinage.
Pour résoudre ce problème, j'ai trouvé une petite ralonge intéressante montée dans le mandrin de la poupée.
J'ai pris un centreur de taraud télescopique qui possède une pointe fine de 4 mm de diamètre. J'avais ainsi assez de place pour ramener l'outil à fileter au départ.
J'ai fait plusieurs pices, les suivantes je les ai coupées plus longues et j'ai coupé le bout à la fn de l'usinage.
Mais j'ai rencontré ce problème plusieurs fois, surtout quand on ne dispose que d'un seul morceau de fer tout juste de la bonne longueur !
Peut-être existe-t-il des pointes fones encore plus longues ?
Amitiés de FrancXris
Is that a Walter threading/grooving tool? Also the 431 inserts did good without the live center on the 1st turn.
I'm not a machinist. Please share why you turned the small diameter first. Would the outcome have been any faster if you had turned the larger diameter first? Also, if you scale the drawing to 2x, it will still fit on the page and eliminate the need for extra drawings. The larger size allows for dimensioning without the clutter.
The order of operations allows for a more rigid part during the single point threading. If it were all taken down to the smaller diameter, there could be more part deflexion.
@@zambootookabooky3725 I fully understand what you mean. However, I was thinking that if he turned the large diameter first, the amount of removed material would speed up the removal of the portion where the threads are. The change in material thickness for the larger diameter seems inconsequential for this part, and deflection wouldn't be an issue. Again, I'm an industrial engineer and not a machinist. Saving time means increased profit. Thanks for your insight.
Great Job...........now CNC it just for practice