If you fall out of love with engineering, that new facial hair could open up lots of new opportunities in the acting profession if they're hunting for someone to play the head of a dangerous biker gang.
Just want to say i love your style of content. No other creater does nearly as good a job of explaining the methods and procedures you use to measure accurately and machine precisely. Its so much more interesting than just watching chips fly. Thats what makes your content something to come back to every time in my opinion! One of the last channels untainted by flashy thumbnails and over sensationalism! Bravo sir
I have always wanted to state this exact sentiment! I immediately subscribed due to the fact that the guy does not keep the streamlining process to himself!!! I realise he may be watching this thread so: CONGRATULATIONS IN YOUR ENDEAVORS @INHERITANCEMACHINING!!!
@@InheritanceMachining Simple fix though. Just grind the point. O ring drive the center and mount a simple die grinder in the tool post. It will center the thing to the bearings so it can be fitted in any position and it will rotate true. As for being on center bearing wise perhaps you could machine the bore for the bearings with the center mounted in the spindle on its Morse taper. I was a little surprised you didn't do this in the first place. Also a tip. I have been repairing machine tools for 30 odd years and for super precision bearings or any bearing really there is a set amount of grease you should use to lubricate it. Many machine manuals will include this information but if you have a bearing book that lists the bearings you are using it should give the correct volume. It's important as to much may cause the internal elements to skip at speed let alone overheat. The nearly universal grease for head stock bearings in CNC is Kluber NBU-15. You wouldn't go wrong using that and it can handle element speeds of over 3500 rpm in bearings that have 400 mm internal mounting diameter. So in the little bearings in the tail stock center there shouldn't be any sort of speed restriction using it on the lathes you have. It's not cheap but usually you would only use a 50 gram tube on all but the biggest bearing sets. Please dont take this the wrong way it only a suggestion from way back in the cheap seats. Cheers
well he did say he didnt have the grinding equipment. But its funny that he would have about 100k in machines but he doesnt have grinders that cost less than 100. because you cant always put everything in a lathe or a mill.
Just goes to show, we need more Mrs. Inheritance Machining in these videos. Even if it would just be a disembodied voice with a biting, snarky comment on something.
@@InheritanceMachiningthat is a project, maybe several episodes to complete, I would like to see! I have a surface grinder, that is, at the moment, down😢 due to lightning taking out the phase converter control, $$$$ to fix, which I used more for fixing chipped and poorly ground woodworking tools. I would like to broaden its uses too.
This comment reminded me the one time I saw a reamer get sharpened on a surface grinder with an indexer and a rotating attachment. It was very impressive.
Just a fun little fact I have learned going for my machinist ticket, this is technically a "rotating dead center" The dead and live refer to if the center has power behind it or not, so the same center could be live if its in a headstock or dead in a tailstock. That being said I will still call them live centers
Ty so much , At 74 years old I miss Machining .... the lathe as always been my favorite machine so is all the rest . I Had tear in my eyes when watching this video I thank you . I do wish I had the money to have my own little shop and keep inventing what people never saw or even teach it . I won the number 1 in Canada for building a testing machine for a word wide compagnies . Thanks again really enjoy these video .
Great video as always. Hint: (re)finish the end of the live center at assembly, install the center in the tailstock. Use a vacuum cleaner belt with a make shift pully in an electric drill to drive the live center. Fit the belt over the live part of the live center-I normally just have someone else operate the electric drill, your tail stock just became the drive to turn the live center perfectly concentric. Take very light cuts with the compound, and a very sharp cutter. This is also how you fix your other centers.
If you mount a dermal style tool in the toolpost and the live centre in the headstock you can grind the 60 degree. Most times the drag of the live centres bearings and seal is enough to drive the centre, if not lock it with sticky tape. A small grinding wheel in a dremal imparts very little load on the part being reground.
@@InheritanceMachining try a $12 CBN insert from china instead, no expensive equipment, easily replaces grinding on hardened material. Very, very low tool pressure, and can take the last tenthousandth in hardened steel.
If you are getting any grinding equipment in the shop, I’d highly recommend getting both the regular wheels and one CBN wheel. Those CBN wheels will NEVER wear out. Use a diamond stone to get them flat, then you simply use it until you either crash it to where it breaks, or you use it enough to where you wear out all the material from trueing it up with the diamond stone lol (in about 400 years lol)
@@thepanduuh we have them at my work. You literally just get a diamond stone (which should come with them, if not, they are sold separately) to dress them and make them flat, then your good to go. We get our stuff from MSC and granger. They should have what you’re looking for. They are very expensive and are very accurate wheels. They are about $300-$600 per wheel. You dress the wheel when it’s loaded up with aluminum oxide, then you true it up with a diamond stone. Everything would probably be about $800 for all the necessary products.
@@thepanduuhtry this old Tony's site. He did a video on using cheap CBN wheels and trying to true them up. He was, in my opinion, reasonably successful. Another site well worth watching although he's not a regular poster. Just when it suits him.
I purchased a set of MT2 and MT3 reamers to clean up tailstocks and headstock of smaller machines. With a little care, you might be able to correct the problem.
Instead of using the tailstock chuck to align the pre-load not in the lathe, you might want to consider making a "pusher" - a Morse taper with a disk on its face, faced in the lathe to make it square to the lathe axis. Very handy.
A greybeard taught me a trick for that. Turn what is basically a negative of the part you want to support out of a soft material with a spot drilled on the other side. Then clamp the live center on the spot. I've used this technique to support an axle with a dome-shaped end on a cnc lathe, it worked great.
Saw a tool for work hardening surfaces on another video. Pretty simple, It was a ball bearing mounted in a holder with a ball race keeping it in place. You just drive it into the surface and it compresses the surface slightly and hardens it.
We have an old saying here in Australia. You can’t polish a turd but you can roll it in glitter. Or bronze chips. Either way, a fun vid and the start of a new tailstock journey 🙂
I was a machinist (manual lathes, mills, and screw machines) for 20+ years, I never made the transition into CNC machining and moved on... I've since found an outlet for my metal working in knife making. Your projects take me back to my days of manual machining from hand drawn prints, and your presentation and naration is both informative and entertaining. I look forward to seeing a notification for each of your new videos.
A Morse taper reamer chucked in the headstock and run into the tailstock is what I used to fix a rough bore. Worked wonders, just go SLOW! (rotate by hand)
Cutting these Morris tapers as just another step in the process is making me very happy. I watched Adam Savage learning this process and it always brings a little extra Zen watching this channel.
When you need more precision than a typical non-adjustable three jaw chuck try using a Buck style three jaw chuck instead. They are the same as a standard three jaw chuck but offer a small amount of adjustment to get the part running concentric with the spindle without loosening and retightening the jaws possibly scratching or marring the part. They are more expensive than a traditional three jaw chuck but well worth the money, once you use one you will not want to use one without adjustment.
Now you see why cylindrical grinders use dead centers, often spring loaded to account for part growth. I'm sure you can tune this up with a little work.
If you can find 1/4” anvil grinding wheels, you can mount a die grinder to a tool holder and use that as a cylindrical grinder, just make sure to use some cardboard to protect the ways and a vacuum to collect dust, you can also use a dremmel but you get clearance issues
I’m a machinist in the making. Watching your videos helps me a lot. You explain so well. Thank you brother. Getting my haas certifications in high school.
Great video! You and your wife bantering needs to be a regular segment. Side note: My dad was the cheapest person I knew and in the long run his cheapness ALWAYS ended up costing him more money in the end haha!
If you end up deciding to hearden it in the future, you should just make it 0.100" bigger so you have enough room to remove any warping that occurs. You should be able to easily remove the excess on your lathe with ceramic or carbide tooling.
Of all the machines that I've run during my training and working life, the cylindrical grinder was the most satisfying. It could routinely provide not only a part made to remarkably tight tolerances but something with a surface finish to die for. If you can it well on a lathe, you can do it better on a grinder.
I REALLY want a cylindrical grinder for exactly those reasons. I'm thinking i will start with a toolpost grinder and if i find myself using it all the time make take the plunge to a dedicated machine!
To get hardening on the area where the needle bearing is rolling you can use a technique called burnishing.... This way you get a hard surface without putting heat into the part and maybe warping... There are a few nice videos on diy burnishing tools 😀👍 And this also will make a nice project / tool to make yourself. Thanks again for the nice video and project
@@InheritanceMachining - Chrome plating might also be an option, would bring the surface up to ~70HRC. Home options are probably less straightforward than burnishing though, which I agree is a great idea!
What a beautiful job, Brandon - from the design, to the detailing of each step, and the beautiful filming. I was so crestfallen at the end, when the hoped-for accuracy wasn't there. It will be very interesting to see how you deal with these issues!
When you first turned the MT in the new live center I was surprised you didn't blue it and do a test fit to look for contact patterns. You just moved on. Then you would have found the problem. So your looking for a tapered reamer to clean up the contact surface in the tail stock I bet. Great video.
Given how easily you separated the drill sleeve off your newly machined taper, I think your morse taper angle might be off. The taper in the tailstock quill doesn't look great, but it's best practice to blue the taper and test fit it to a known good sample. Sharpie also works if you cross hatch the surface, lightly fit it, give it a 1/16 of a turn and remove to see where you have contact.
@@thorbjrnbrdholt8325 disappointed, no side projects and only one measly little screw, not up to snuff, in the "boxoshame"! He's slipping. Or getting better.
It was cool to see you graduate from copying morse tapers with an indicator to setting up the precise angle using trig. I recently did this as well for a collet chuck and i was very impressed not only with how accurate it is, but how easy it is once you get the hang of it. Well done bro!
@@InheritanceMachining never mind, i misremembered it. I watched your tap follower video and asked if you could sweep a known good taper instead. You said you might try. Somehow that was twisted in my head. Long time ago 😂
I just found your channel. I am a 25+ year machinist and I am impressed, you seriously know your stuff. Thanks for the great content, even an old dog can learn a new trick lol. You made me get excited and remember why I got into the field.
Turning cones is not easy. Make an undercut in the middle of the taper, leaving 2 contact relatively wide contact points and it will seat much better. My live center has this feature
Should you apply load to check runout, those bearings would be reacting to each other's channels for rollers, maybe check with load against live centers, remove whipping.
Try using the Morse taper sleeve as a blue check to verify that the taper you cut on the live center is correct. Find out where the high spot is and adjust your compound accordingly
We had to machine some hardened O1 part at my shop and we were able to remove .030 total with diamond tipped inserts at .005 per pass. This might be an option for you if you don't plan on getting the grinding equipement for it.
@@larryw5329 Pretty sure it is the opposite. The diamond reacts with steel at grinding temperatures, wearing the diamond. You can actually dress diamond wheels with mild steel.
also your care in making things function, but also look good has inspired me. I've started to bother polishing visible surfaces in the things I make now. Thank you!
This has inspired me to get going on a project I’ve been sandbagging on, #3 Morse Taper live mounted back plate, to mount a 3 or 4 jaw chuck in the tail stock.
There is probably already a million comments stating this, but you won’t need cylindrical grinding equipment to fix your center. It is its own fixture, just plop it in a vblock on the grinder, run a o-ring as belt around the tip and your powerdrill and grind it in its own bearings for perfect results! Love the content!
Just want to say how much I'm enjoying your content. I'm a backyard hobbiest and hadnt touched my machines in almost a year, you've inspired me to get back in the shop and start making some homemade tooling. Looking forward to seeing your channel grow. Cheers!
I believe the lithium grease wasn't the best choice. Should have used a marine grade bearing grease. Just a thought from someone who uses lots of bearings. Great video, thanks.
Hey Brandon, I dont know if somebody pointed that one out already but remember to count in the angle from the center drill before you harden the center. It can wear out different parts of the tip :) also good luck with the new lathe, really looking forward to the restauration
Hey I can actually weigh in here! So don’t feel too bad about the runout, that’s actually pretty normal for assembling it all machined. It is EXTREMELY difficult to make a multi-part assembly and not expect tolerance stacking. What most high precision live centers do is grind them in AFTER install. After the live center is fully assembled, you attach a small rubber belt to the live center (luckily you made yours extra long with a straight section so this is easy) then you spin up the live center with a separate motor, so it is spinning inside the bearings, like it would in use. Then you grind in the tip. Now the tip should be running concentric with the bearings and any further misalignment is from the tailstock. Some other tips, for bearing installs, use dry ice. You can get it very cheap from many grocery stores and butchers. Keep the spindle on dry ice and wrap the bearings in a slightly damp paper towel and toss them in the microwave. That will safely get them nice and hot and (most importantly) very evenly heated. I’ve done this dozens of times and never damaged a bearing.
I watched your drafting video a few months back and most subsequent videos after. Your content is amazing and has inspired me to go to school to study mechanical engineering. Thank you.
I'm a handtool woodworker. I have an electric wood lathe, and thats the closest I'll ever get to machining. But, I love your work. I never miss a new video. Thank you for producing such consistently high quality work.
Hi from Canada, I really appreciate all the effort you put in your work and content; it is what makes you stand out from a lot of other machining channels. I have a tiny trick when you cut brass or similar material; just use a paint brush over the cutting edge. It won't spray everywhere in your face and arms! Keep up the good work!
The most important thing about greasing bearings is that you use grease, second and third is the oxidation resistance and film strength. Lithium has a pretty good film strength, but I find it to oxidize faster than average. But you followed the most important rule, which is what counts.
You can always press a dowel pin or broken tool into the tip of the center. You can set up a grinder on your compound and clean it up. That's what we did in tech school 24 years ago.
Love the build 2 things though Is the seal in backwards Dont overload bearings with too much grease. Need about 20% of the area of the bearing Hopefully can save the center by dialing in the body in the 4 jaw and usingna drive dog on the nose?😊
I don't want to brag, but my first attempt at cutting a morse taper was a MT3 weldon style end mill holder on my South Bend 9A. 0.005mm runout measured at the end mill shank, so 2 tenth in your currency if my math is right. Probably beginner's luck and I'll never be this accurate again in my live. Love your content and the humour. Subscribed a couple of weeks ago and I'm a fan.
Dude that's some serious precision. But I know the feeling. It's like the stars align just right, the wind blows in the right direction and it just comes out perfect. 😂 Thanks for being here!
14:00 Another way of dealing with this would be to flip the part (always an option when turning between centres) in order to be able to set the compound slide in a convenient orientation.
Great Job Brandon. Ebay is a good source for NOS bearings. I bought some Barden bearings for our surface grinder for like 40$. We used Kluber NBU 15 & some techniques learned from Robin Renzetti.
This is first RUclips channel i have watched some video ,then after every video from oldest to newest love the storyline and how he dont just push some content for views ,pls keep up the qualty not quantity
I love it when creators find ways to make their ads interesting, and this bit is a great one! I didn't even think about reaching for the remote to skip through.
Thanks for the great channel. i enjoy the chilled presentation style. try this old watchmakers trick for the needle bearing location. Leave the needle bearing diameter 1 or 2 thou oversize (trial and error required there ) then use the edge of a roller bearing mounted in a holder ( side project ??) to burnish the journal face. This will work harden the face and give a superb finish hopefully making sure you go to the hardend option you mentioned instead of the worn out option.
Haven't finished yet, but as i watch, i wait with trepidation for the eventual screw up. not because i have some kind of animosity towards you, and want you to mess up projects, but more so that every mistake you make and document is a lesson you learned in the process which is wholesome and refreshing. and if you make no mistakes and have no offerings to the box of shame? the video remains enjoyable regardless.
Having entered design engineering in 1970, I appreciate manual drawings. And a good looking drawing is easier to understand and use...and it is good looking. I had to smile at the careful cross hatching, remembering a well-respected boss. He encouraged showing just enough hatching to get the idea across. We did chuckle when he said, "I'd rather have a guy spend his time thinking instead of cross hatching." He wasn't conviced when I told him that I could do both at the same time.
very nice job love your makes. one of my first projects on my lathe was making a live center 40+ years ago. made out of a imbus bolt M36 and fit 2 taper bearings. works for 40 years till i buy an chinese lifecenter, use mine for rough work still. keep on going .
As you have a surface grinder you can grind the besrings to make ghem matched. A little complicated but if you put the bearing down on the magnet with a shim under the inner race and grind the inner and outer, then turn it over and grind both inner and outer without a shim. Do it for two bearings and you have for all intents and purposes a matched set, although not necessarily considered "best practice"! Dont get the bearings the wrong way around or you will make things suitable for your box of shame. I'll let you ponder the methodology. Before you go for a cylinder grinding set up, buy a morse taper reamer and clean the tsilstock bore. And a dremal works well enough to grind a centre true, without a lot of expense.
It's remarkable to notice the high ratio of views to subscribers a new video of yours gets in less than 24 hours. It just shows how many of us are so eager and excited about watching a new video. While I'm just a beginning hobby machinest, the amount of knowledge I absorb each video is wonderful, and the humor is the icing in the cake. My only complaint is that your videos are so enjoyable, they go by so fast! 25 minutes feels like 5! Thank you as always Brandon, looking forward to the next one.
Thanks so much Jeff! I'm honestly blown away on a consistent basis at the numbers myself. I never thought we would be here. But thank you so much for the kind words!
Thanks for posting a video today.i really needed it.haveing a family tragedy and needed something to relax and your videos do the trick.sincerely thanks
Gorgeously filmed, we never get tired of just watching spinny-shiny-making even if we can just go do it ourselves. On the spindle I would argue it would be safer warpwise to hog out all the non-critical stuff before finishing the critical diameter. Of course you mainly worked on the tail, but I saw you took some in front of the bearing surface too. Then you went to the 4-jaw and by choosing that, instead of referencing the bearing surface you referenced a surface that was not made in the same between centers setup and is one tolerance beyond.
Good call. This was why my approach was to get the outside as dialed as I could and base everything from there. Of course theres still a tolerance build up. I have a plan though!
As I saw the SKF ball-bearing from my little country in the north of Europe, I asked myself what other good engineers/inventors we had... On top of my (layman) mind I think of: - Nobel - Johansson gauges - Håkan Lans I would be really glad if the community here might give some insight to who I have missed?
You are definitely one of my favorite creators to watch! The production quality is amazing, the explanations, precision and some slight cheeky wit is great! I love the focus on making better tools and improving the workspace as well.
Piper is a premium Australian brand of live centres and one of their design features is the ability to grind the spindle in it's own bearings. You simply remove the cap from the taper and screw in a drive dog. Your tail end roller bearing looks pretty small so this idea is probably not useful here. However given you have cylindrical sections on the spindle nose it is possible to make up a couple of pulleys for an O ring drive to turn the spindle and use a surface grinder to re-establish concentricity.
I truly love watching your videos. As a fellow machinist, your videos have reignited my drive for true precision and made my desire to make things so much stronger. You should make a radius turning tool. I would love to see your take on it, and see what features you could give it.
It is , it really is. It's how I learned some processes to be able to be a cnc machinist, so it's important stuff to learn. Either way, your an amazing person and absolutely love watching you for many reasons. Well please keep up the great work and videos and thanks again
At least you may be able to differentiate between "dead" and "live" except... A "solid" centre, which is what I think (correct me if I'm wrong) you mean, can be used "dead" or "live". Fitted in the tailstock of a centre lathe, it's "dead" (not driven) Fitted in the headstock, and rotating at spindle speed, it's "live" (driven) But... Take (say) a Jones and Shipman 1310 universal grinder. When seeking maximum precision in cylindrical grinding work,, you lock up the headstock centre, rendering it "dead", and then work between "dead" centres. Conveniently, there's (there was on older models) a little reservoir of oil in the tailstock, with an applicator quill to oil centre holes before mounting workpieces... A "running" centre is not a "live" centre, and a "solid" centre isn't necessarily "dead", since in a lathe headstock, it's "live" or "driven"
@@robertlawson8572 and you are correct. I used dead center for solid center. An old machinist taught me how to use them. And his very old Monarch had the reservoir on the tail stock for lube, he used white lead and a tad of way oil to keep things smooth. You also had to monitor part temperature as you machined, if it started getting too warm, it would get longer, and try to warp the part being turned (rifle barrels).
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Thank you to Henson Shaving for sponsoring this video! Use code INHERITANCE to get 100 free blade refills at hensonshaving.com/inheritance
I normally hate sponsored ads, but you make them worth the watch. Love the wholesome interaction with your wife!
I've only bought one sponsored item, and it was this razor. It's seriously worth it.
My only regret was it wasn't in support of this channel.
Pro tip: the RK blades that come with it are just okay. A better blade like Feather will give you much better results.
If you fall out of love with engineering, that new facial hair could open up lots of new opportunities in the acting profession if they're hunting for someone to play the head of a dangerous biker gang.
Great sponsorship , Love your commercial had me laughing to
Just want to say i love your style of content. No other creater does nearly as good a job of explaining the methods and procedures you use to measure accurately and machine precisely. Its so much more interesting than just watching chips fly. Thats what makes your content something to come back to every time in my opinion! One of the last channels untainted by flashy thumbnails and over sensationalism! Bravo sir
This Man is epic
Check out blondihacks she does the explaining also really well.,
I really appreciate that! Thank you!
Absolutely agree!
I have always wanted to state this exact sentiment! I immediately subscribed due to the fact that the guy does not keep the streamlining process to himself!!! I realise he may be watching this thread so: CONGRATULATIONS IN YOUR ENDEAVORS @INHERITANCEMACHINING!!!
Seeing all that runout was like seeing a murderer in a horror movie.
tell me about it
@@InheritanceMachining Simple fix though. Just grind the point. O ring drive the center and mount a simple die grinder in the tool post. It will center the thing to the bearings so it can be fitted in any position and it will rotate true. As for being on center bearing wise perhaps you could machine the bore for the bearings with the center mounted in the spindle on its Morse taper. I was a little surprised you didn't do this in the first place. Also a tip. I have been repairing machine tools for 30 odd years and for super precision bearings or any bearing really there is a set amount of grease you should use to lubricate it. Many machine manuals will include this information but if you have a bearing book that lists the bearings you are using it should give the correct volume. It's important as to much may cause the internal elements to skip at speed let alone overheat. The nearly universal grease for head stock bearings in CNC is Kluber NBU-15. You wouldn't go wrong using that and it can handle element speeds of over 3500 rpm in bearings that have 400 mm internal mounting diameter. So in the little bearings in the tail stock center there shouldn't be any sort of speed restriction using it on the lathes you have. It's not cheap but usually you would only use a 50 gram tube on all but the biggest bearing sets.
Please dont take this the wrong way it only a suggestion from way back in the cheap seats.
Cheers
well he did say he didnt have the grinding equipment. But its funny that he would have about 100k in machines but he doesnt have grinders that cost less than 100. because you cant always put everything in a lathe or a mill.
@@smottiebug7518 It's not your regular bench grinder that he needs. There's no way to get close to his needed precision with one of those
'Pornstache is leaking" is by far one of the funniest things I've heard this week. Props to your better half!
Just goes to show, we need more Mrs. Inheritance Machining in these videos. Even if it would just be a disembodied voice with a biting, snarky comment on something.
She caught me off guard with that one. She usually does
More facial hair is better ? Really ? You are already like..Seal Team 6..
We call that a chopper here. After Chopper Reid.
I'm a little surprised you didn't embark on a side project to set yourself up for cylindrical grinding on the surface grinder.
Who says I'm not 😉
@@InheritanceMachiningthat is a project, maybe several episodes to complete, I would like to see! I have a surface grinder, that is, at the moment, down😢 due to lightning taking out the phase converter control, $$$$ to fix, which I used more for fixing chipped and poorly ground woodworking tools. I would like to broaden its uses too.
@@InheritanceMachining That's the spirit! 😆
This comment reminded me the one time I saw a reamer get sharpened on a surface grinder with an indexer and a rotating attachment. It was very impressive.
Just a fun little fact I have learned going for my machinist ticket, this is technically a "rotating dead center" The dead and live refer to if the center has power behind it or not, so the same center could be live if its in a headstock or dead in a tailstock.
That being said I will still call them live centers
Ty so much , At 74 years old I miss Machining .... the lathe as always been my favorite machine so is all the rest . I Had tear in my eyes when watching this video I thank you . I do wish I had the money to have my own little shop and keep inventing what people never saw or even teach it . I won the number 1 in Canada for building a testing machine for a word wide compagnies . Thanks again really enjoy these video .
Great video as always. Hint: (re)finish the end of the live center at assembly, install the center in the tailstock. Use a vacuum cleaner belt with a make shift pully in an electric drill to drive the live center. Fit the belt over the live part of the live center-I normally just have someone else operate the electric drill, your tail stock just became the drive to turn the live center perfectly concentric. Take very light cuts with the compound, and a very sharp cutter. This is also how you fix your other centers.
Thanks! I'm thinking of doing exactly this with a tool post grinder!
If you mount a dermal style tool in the toolpost and the live centre in the headstock you can grind the 60 degree. Most times the drag of the live centres bearings and seal is enough to drive the centre, if not lock it with sticky tape. A small grinding wheel in a dremal imparts very little load on the part being reground.
@@InheritanceMachining try a $12 CBN insert from china instead, no expensive equipment, easily replaces grinding on hardened material. Very, very low tool pressure, and can take the last tenthousandth in hardened steel.
@@InheritanceMachining Watch James (Clough42) make a post grinder to avoid some of the pitfalls!
You and @CuttingEdgeEngineering are my two favorite things about Fridays.
i know right! every friday, i watch CEE and Inheritance while eating dinner after work!
Daww shucks 😊
It's the same for me. CEE and Inheritence are my friday ritual.
The two sides of the spectrum, hobby machining and heavy equipment repair machining
@@rfirtfan2809but so similar in many ways.
If you are getting any grinding equipment in the shop, I’d highly recommend getting both the regular wheels and one CBN wheel. Those CBN wheels will NEVER wear out. Use a diamond stone to get them flat, then you simply use it until you either crash it to where it breaks, or you use it enough to where you wear out all the material from trueing it up with the diamond stone lol (in about 400 years lol)
Noted!
Where do you find information on CBN wheel trueing/dressing etc? Basically just have to know someone with the experience?
@@thepanduuh we have them at my work. You literally just get a diamond stone (which should come with them, if not, they are sold separately) to dress them and make them flat, then your good to go. We get our stuff from MSC and granger. They should have what you’re looking for. They are very expensive and are very accurate wheels. They are about $300-$600 per wheel. You dress the wheel when it’s loaded up with aluminum oxide, then you true it up with a diamond stone. Everything would probably be about $800 for all the necessary products.
@@thepanduuhtry this old Tony's site. He did a video on using cheap CBN wheels and trying to true them up. He was, in my opinion, reasonably successful.
Another site well worth watching although he's not a regular poster. Just when it suits him.
@@ronwilken5219 @thepanduh I’ll second This Old Tony - very enjoyable.
I purchased a set of MT2 and MT3 reamers to clean up tailstocks and headstock of smaller machines. With a little care, you might be able to correct the problem.
👍😁 they work amazingly well.
I have 1-5.
Restoring old iron they're a necessity.
Instead of using the tailstock chuck to align the pre-load not in the lathe, you might want to consider making a "pusher" - a Morse taper with a disk on its face, faced in the lathe to make it square to the lathe axis. Very handy.
I like that idea. I think i saw Joe Pi makes something similar to hold disc shaped parts just using pressure
A greybeard taught me a trick for that. Turn what is basically a negative of the part you want to support out of a soft material with a spot drilled on the other side. Then clamp the live center on the spot. I've used this technique to support an axle with a dome-shaped end on a cnc lathe, it worked great.
Saw a tool for work hardening surfaces on another video. Pretty simple, It was a ball bearing mounted in a holder with a ball race keeping it in place. You just drive it into the surface and it compresses the surface slightly and hardens it.
We have an old saying here in Australia. You can’t polish a turd but you can roll it in glitter. Or bronze chips. Either way, a fun vid and the start of a new tailstock journey 🙂
I like that... a lot 😂 Thanks!
I was a machinist (manual lathes, mills, and screw machines) for 20+ years, I never made the transition into CNC machining and moved on... I've since found an outlet for my metal working in knife making. Your projects take me back to my days of manual machining from hand drawn prints, and your presentation and naration is both informative and entertaining. I look forward to seeing a notification for each of your new videos.
The appropriate size Morse Taper reamer will go a long way to correcting your tail stock issue. It worked wonders on mine.
A Morse taper reamer chucked in the headstock and run into the tailstock is what I used to fix a rough bore. Worked wonders, just go SLOW! (rotate by hand)
Cutting these Morris tapers as just another step in the process is making me very happy. I watched Adam Savage learning this process and it always brings a little extra Zen watching this channel.
Конус морзе...
Morse taper...
When you need more precision than a typical non-adjustable three jaw chuck try using a Buck style three jaw chuck instead. They are the same as a standard three jaw chuck but offer a small amount of adjustment to get the part running concentric with the spindle without loosening and retightening the jaws possibly scratching or marring the part. They are more expensive than a traditional three jaw chuck but well worth the money, once you use one you will not want to use one without adjustment.
Now you see why cylindrical grinders use dead centers, often spring loaded to account for part growth.
I'm sure you can tune this up with a little work.
If you can find 1/4” anvil grinding wheels, you can mount a die grinder to a tool holder and use that as a cylindrical grinder, just make sure to use some cardboard to protect the ways and a vacuum to collect dust, you can also use a dremmel but you get clearance issues
Seeing those curls and then going "everything reminds me of her" - but deviating to a razor segue, nice.
I’m a machinist in the making. Watching your videos helps me a lot. You explain so well. Thank you brother. Getting my haas certifications in high school.
Nice man! Glad they could help
Great video! You and your wife bantering needs to be a regular segment. Side note: My dad was the cheapest person I knew and in the long run his cheapness ALWAYS ended up costing him more money in the end haha!
I'm sure she will continue to make appearances from time to time 😀 BTW your father also probably ended up with more tools in the end as well!
@@InheritanceMachining 100% correct 😅
If you end up deciding to hearden it in the future, you should just make it 0.100" bigger so you have enough room to remove any warping that occurs. You should be able to easily remove the excess on your lathe with ceramic or carbide tooling.
You spin me right-round, machinist, right-round! Like a live-center, right-round!
Well. Almost round.
@@AlexDiestel LMAO! You win all the internetz I have to award today!
Of all the machines that I've run during my training and working life, the cylindrical grinder was the most satisfying. It could routinely provide not only a part made to remarkably tight tolerances but something with a surface finish to die for. If you can it well on a lathe, you can do it better on a grinder.
I REALLY want a cylindrical grinder for exactly those reasons. I'm thinking i will start with a toolpost grinder and if i find myself using it all the time make take the plunge to a dedicated machine!
Im a machining apprentice and These videos are always so fun to watch and i also learn a ton from them.
So, big thank you for making these.
glad I could be of help! Thanks
im not a Machinist, but planning to buy a Lathe which fits my budget after watching your Videos@@InheritanceMachining
To get hardening on the area where the needle bearing is rolling you can use a technique called burnishing....
This way you get a hard surface without putting heat into the part and maybe warping...
There are a few nice videos on diy burnishing tools 😀👍
And this also will make a nice project / tool to make yourself.
Thanks again for the nice video and project
oooo that's a really clever idea. Why didn't I think of that! 😂
@@InheritanceMachining - Chrome plating might also be an option, would bring the surface up to ~70HRC. Home options are probably less straightforward than burnishing though, which I agree is a great idea!
please get square inserts. they can do chamfers, facing, and turning i think you’d love them.
I ironically have a bunch with not holder for them haha
Great timing. I just got my first lathe this week!
congratulations!
What a beautiful job, Brandon - from the design, to the detailing of each step, and the beautiful filming. I was so crestfallen at the end, when the hoped-for accuracy wasn't there. It will be very interesting to see how you deal with these issues!
The concentricity issue is all in the center part. What about driving the center with a belt and using a tool post grinder to recut the point?
А также сделать термическую обработку до твердости 55HRC
That's exactly what I'm thinking of doing 😊
When you first turned the MT in the new live center I was surprised you didn't blue it and do a test fit to look for contact patterns. You just moved on. Then you would have found the problem. So your looking for a tapered reamer to clean up the contact surface in the tail stock I bet. Great video.
Had to finish the backlog for your channel. 4 weeks of pure agony but I’m glad you’re back!!!!!!
😂 glad to be back!
Given how easily you separated the drill sleeve off your newly machined taper, I think your morse taper angle might be off. The taper in the tailstock quill doesn't look great, but it's best practice to blue the taper and test fit it to a known good sample.
Sharpie also works if you cross hatch the surface, lightly fit it, give it a 1/16 of a turn and remove to see where you have contact.
Ok, I'm here, all centered and ready to be entertained... :D
Or perhaps… centretained?
I’ll see myself out
I got my soda and popcorn ready for a delight
@@thorbjrnbrdholt8325 disappointed, no side projects and only one measly little screw, not up to snuff, in the "boxoshame"! He's slipping. Or getting better.
To be fair, it's hard to concentrate properly on creating more side projects when your pornstache is leaking all over the place @@ronwilken5219
@@quakxy_dukx 😂 😂
It was cool to see you graduate from copying morse tapers with an indicator to setting up the precise angle using trig. I recently did this as well for a collet chuck and i was very impressed not only with how accurate it is, but how easy it is once you get the hang of it. Well done bro!
Thanks! Though I've never copied MT's like that (despite seeing it as well) I don't trust the center drill in the end! 😂
@@InheritanceMachining why do I have such a vivid memory of you copying a taper with an indicator? Maybe it was just an aesthetic feature…
@@InheritanceMachining never mind, i misremembered it. I watched your tap follower video and asked if you could sweep a known good taper instead. You said you might try.
Somehow that was twisted in my head. Long time ago 😂
I like your channel so when new vid drops is a good day
I just found your channel. I am a 25+ year machinist and I am impressed, you seriously know your stuff. Thanks for the great content, even an old dog can learn a new trick lol. You made me get excited and remember why I got into the field.
Those bearings were $400 a piece? :o
not the ones I bought 😂
Turning cones is not easy. Make an undercut in the middle of the taper, leaving 2 contact relatively wide contact points and it will seat much better. My live center has this feature
Oh good point. Come to think of is I think I have some MT chuck arbors that have this same feature but never thought why
I did the exact same thing! All that work to find my tailstock in the same shape as yours. Gotta love used machinery! Great video though!
Should you apply load to check runout, those bearings would be reacting to each other's channels for rollers, maybe check with load against live centers, remove whipping.
Hmm... that might help actually. In the even they arent fully seated or something
Try using the Morse taper sleeve as a blue check to verify that the taper you cut on the live center is correct. Find out where the high spot is and adjust your compound accordingly
feel like this is one of the best youtube channels that came out of nowhere. Watch every new video religiously
Thank you 🙏
We had to machine some hardened O1 part at my shop and we were able to remove .030 total with diamond tipped inserts at .005 per pass. This might be an option for you if you don't plan on getting the grinding equipement for it.
Doesn't diamond burn up machining steel? I thought CBN is the preferred hard turning tool
@@larryw5329 Pretty sure it is the opposite. The diamond reacts with steel at grinding temperatures, wearing the diamond. You can actually dress diamond wheels with mild steel.
I thought about hard turning as well. I might have to look into that!
I actually love that ads are returning to the pioneering of radio ways. Work in a whole little aside for the sake of such. Chefs kiss.
Kluber NBU15 is the grease you use for TAC bearings.
also your care in making things function, but also look good has inspired me. I've started to bother polishing visible surfaces in the things I make now. Thank you!
nice! gotta be proud of the things you make!
21:07 - 21:14 I don't know why but that extra hit was so funny
genius
Using the compound to do fine adjustments on boring the ID is genius! Love the Hulk Hogan as well :)
Let me tell you something, Brother! Everybody learns something in Hulkamania!
This has inspired me to get going on a project I’ve been sandbagging on, #3 Morse Taper live mounted back plate, to mount a 3 or 4 jaw chuck in the tail stock.
There is probably already a million comments stating this, but you won’t need cylindrical grinding equipment to fix your center. It is its own fixture, just plop it in a vblock on the grinder, run a o-ring as belt around the tip and your powerdrill and grind it in its own bearings for perfect results! Love the content!
Not a bad idea! I still want a cylindrical grinder though 😂 thanks!
Just want to say how much I'm enjoying your content. I'm a backyard hobbiest and hadnt touched my machines in almost a year, you've inspired me to get back in the shop and start making some homemade tooling. Looking forward to seeing your channel grow. Cheers!
Glad to hear it man! Give those machines some exercise!
I believe the lithium grease wasn't the best choice. Should have used a marine grade bearing grease. Just a thought from someone who uses lots of bearings. Great video, thanks.
You should get what's called a Hail Mary Fixture for your Surface Grinder. we use it for our smaller pins and such that need precision
this is on my wish list!
Hey Brandon, I dont know if somebody pointed that one out already but remember to count in the angle from the center drill before you harden the center. It can wear out different parts of the tip :) also good luck with the new lathe, really looking forward to the restauration
Thanks! Though I'm not sure I follow you exactly. Are you suggesting the center drill is not 60 degrees?
Hey I can actually weigh in here! So don’t feel too bad about the runout, that’s actually pretty normal for assembling it all machined. It is EXTREMELY difficult to make a multi-part assembly and not expect tolerance stacking. What most high precision live centers do is grind them in AFTER install. After the live center is fully assembled, you attach a small rubber belt to the live center (luckily you made yours extra long with a straight section so this is easy) then you spin up the live center with a separate motor, so it is spinning inside the bearings, like it would in use. Then you grind in the tip. Now the tip should be running concentric with the bearings and any further misalignment is from the tailstock.
Some other tips, for bearing installs, use dry ice. You can get it very cheap from many grocery stores and butchers. Keep the spindle on dry ice and wrap the bearings in a slightly damp paper towel and toss them in the microwave. That will safely get them nice and hot and (most importantly) very evenly heated. I’ve done this dozens of times and never damaged a bearing.
I watched your drafting video a few months back and most subsequent videos after. Your content is amazing and has inspired me to go to school to study mechanical engineering. Thank you.
You could try touching up the tailstock barrel with a tapered reamer.
good idea!
I'm a handtool woodworker. I have an electric wood lathe, and thats the closest I'll ever get to machining. But, I love your work. I never miss a new video. Thank you for producing such consistently high quality work.
Thanks for being here! I envy wood turners by the way. I have the help of perfectly square ways to guide me. You guys are doing it all by hand!
I really like the fact that you show projects that didn't work out, because that's the kind of films that teach the most. Best regards
Hi from Canada, I really appreciate all the effort you put in your work and content; it is what makes you stand out from a lot of other machining channels. I have a tiny trick when you cut brass or similar material; just use a paint brush over the cutting edge. It won't spray everywhere in your face and arms!
Keep up the good work!
that.... is a brilliant idea! Why didn't I think of that 😂 thanks!
The most important thing about greasing bearings is that you use grease, second and third is the oxidation resistance and film strength. Lithium has a pretty good film strength, but I find it to oxidize faster than average. But you followed the most important rule, which is what counts.
You can always press a dowel pin or broken tool into the tip of the center. You can set up a grinder on your compound and clean it up. That's what we did in tech school 24 years ago.
Another brilliant build. Thanks for sharing. Matt in the UK
Love the build 2 things though
Is the seal in backwards
Dont overload bearings with too much grease. Need about 20% of the area of the bearing
Hopefully can save the center by dialing in the body in the 4 jaw and usingna drive dog on the nose?😊
I don't want to brag, but my first attempt at cutting a morse taper was a MT3 weldon style end mill holder on my South Bend 9A. 0.005mm runout measured at the end mill shank, so 2 tenth in your currency if my math is right. Probably beginner's luck and I'll never be this accurate again in my live.
Love your content and the humour. Subscribed a couple of weeks ago and I'm a fan.
Dude that's some serious precision. But I know the feeling. It's like the stars align just right, the wind blows in the right direction and it just comes out perfect. 😂 Thanks for being here!
For the needle bearing, if you have enough meat on the shaft you could turn it down and use a hardened inner race for the rolling elements to ride on
14:00 Another way of dealing with this would be to flip the part (always an option when turning between centres) in order to be able to set the compound slide in a convenient orientation.
Great Job Brandon. Ebay is a good source for NOS bearings. I bought some Barden bearings for our surface grinder for like 40$. We used Kluber NBU 15 & some techniques learned from Robin Renzetti.
Thanks for the tips! I heard some good things about the Kluber grease but didn't do the research in time for this build.
This is first RUclips channel i have watched some video ,then after every video from oldest to newest love the storyline and how he dont just push some content for views ,pls keep up the qualty not quantity
Thanks for video. For next center, use first one axial bearing, next one or two radial. no use needle bearing. Good jobs.
I love it when creators find ways to make their ads interesting, and this bit is a great one! I didn't even think about reaching for the remote to skip through.
That was my goal 😃 thank you!
Thanks for the great channel. i enjoy the chilled presentation style. try this old watchmakers trick for the needle bearing location.
Leave the needle bearing diameter 1 or 2 thou oversize (trial and error required there ) then use the edge of a roller bearing mounted in a holder ( side project ??) to burnish the journal face.
This will work harden the face and give a superb finish hopefully making sure you go to the hardend option you mentioned instead of the worn out option.
Haven't finished yet, but as i watch, i wait with trepidation for the eventual screw up. not because i have some kind of animosity towards you, and want you to mess up projects, but more so that every mistake you make and document is a lesson you learned in the process which is wholesome and refreshing. and if you make no mistakes and have no offerings to the box of shame? the video remains enjoyable regardless.
Having entered design engineering in 1970, I appreciate manual drawings. And a good looking drawing is easier to understand and use...and it is good looking. I had to smile at the careful cross hatching, remembering a well-respected boss. He encouraged showing just enough hatching to get the idea across. We did chuckle when he said, "I'd rather have a guy spend his time thinking instead of cross hatching." He wasn't conviced when I told him that I could do both at the same time.
😂 It is a bit of a mindless activity. Glad you liked them!
Paige!! It makes my day to hear her! Still miss her amazingly videos 😊
The most sought after is not the Live Center per-say, but the "Bull Nose Live Center" which is the most desired and sought after accessory.
very nice job love your makes. one of my first projects on my lathe was making a live center 40+ years ago. made out of a imbus bolt M36 and fit 2 taper bearings. works for 40 years till i buy an chinese lifecenter, use mine for rough work still. keep on going .
Thanks!
As you have a surface grinder you can grind the besrings to make ghem matched. A little complicated but if you put the bearing down on the magnet with a shim under the inner race and grind the inner and outer, then turn it over and grind both inner and outer without a shim. Do it for two bearings and you have for all intents and purposes a matched set, although not necessarily considered "best practice"! Dont get the bearings the wrong way around or you will make things suitable for your box of shame. I'll let you ponder the methodology.
Before you go for a cylinder grinding set up, buy a morse taper reamer and clean the tsilstock bore. And a dremal works well enough to grind a centre true, without a lot of expense.
6:10 your smile is beautiful sir....😄
stefan gotteswinter has some good videos on using a surface grinder for cylindrical grinding. Another side project 😁
I love the wholesome freaking out your partner with facial hair :)
It's remarkable to notice the high ratio of views to subscribers a new video of yours gets in less than 24 hours. It just shows how many of us are so eager and excited about watching a new video. While I'm just a beginning hobby machinest, the amount of knowledge I absorb each video is wonderful, and the humor is the icing in the cake.
My only complaint is that your videos are so enjoyable, they go by so fast! 25 minutes feels like 5! Thank you as always Brandon, looking forward to the next one.
Thanks so much Jeff! I'm honestly blown away on a consistent basis at the numbers myself. I never thought we would be here. But thank you so much for the kind words!
Thanks for posting a video today.i really needed it.haveing a family tragedy and needed something to relax and your videos do the trick.sincerely thanks
I'm really sorry to hear that but glad I could help. Hang in there ♥️
Watching the new video with my Christmas present IM coffee cup. It's like Saturday morning cartoons. Just missing some Inheritance machining pajamas.
🤔 I wonder if I could add those to the store!
Thank so much for the support 😊
Gorgeously filmed, we never get tired of just watching spinny-shiny-making even if we can just go do it ourselves. On the spindle I would argue it would be safer warpwise to hog out all the non-critical stuff before finishing the critical diameter. Of course you mainly worked on the tail, but I saw you took some in front of the bearing surface too.
Then you went to the 4-jaw and by choosing that, instead of referencing the bearing surface you referenced a surface that was not made in the same between centers setup and is one tolerance beyond.
Good call. This was why my approach was to get the outside as dialed as I could and base everything from there. Of course theres still a tolerance build up. I have a plan though!
As I saw the SKF ball-bearing from my little country in the north of Europe, I asked myself what other good engineers/inventors we had...
On top of my (layman) mind I think of:
- Nobel
- Johansson gauges
- Håkan Lans
I would be really glad if the community here might give some insight to who I have missed?
“Ok, I’ll come up with you…”
She said NO! HAAAAAAHAHAHA!
I thought the new look was kinda beautiferous myself! 😂
😂 Hell yeah, Brother!
You are definitely one of my favorite creators to watch! The production quality is amazing, the explanations, precision and some slight cheeky wit is great!
I love the focus on making better tools and improving the workspace as well.
Glad to hear it! Thanks for the nice feedback, man!
Piper is a premium Australian brand of live centres and one of their design features is the ability to grind the spindle in it's own bearings. You simply remove the cap from the taper and screw in a drive dog. Your tail end roller bearing looks pretty small so this idea is probably not useful here. However given you have cylindrical sections on the spindle nose it is possible to make up a couple of pulleys for an O ring drive to turn the spindle and use a surface grinder to re-establish concentricity.
I’ve got to say, you’re right up there with clickspring, tot, tom, adam, and stefan.
16:38 Honestly, I just need the video upload notification to come watch. The thumbnail is just extra on top 🤩
😁 well shucks!
I truly love watching your videos. As a fellow machinist, your videos have reignited my drive for true precision and made my desire to make things so much stronger.
You should make a radius turning tool. I would love to see your take on it, and see what features you could give it.
I'm glad to hear it and thank you so much! I have a radius tool on my (long) list of things to make. And with an approach I've never seen used before!
@@InheritanceMachining I truly look forward to it.
For greasing up bearings, I like to use bearing grease from the auto parts store. One tub is a lifetime supply for most people.
I'm a cnc machinist and I love watching your videos, I miss manual machining sometimes
thanks man. it really is a different thing
It is , it really is. It's how I learned some processes to be able to be a cnc machinist, so it's important stuff to learn. Either way, your an amazing person and absolutely love watching you for many reasons. Well please keep up the great work and videos and thanks again
To get the best accuracy machining your live center, I think I would have machined it between dead centers. A carbide dead center would be my choice.
At least you may be able to differentiate between "dead" and "live" except... A "solid" centre, which is what I think (correct me if I'm wrong) you mean, can be used "dead" or "live". Fitted in the tailstock of a centre lathe, it's "dead" (not driven) Fitted in the headstock, and rotating at spindle speed, it's "live" (driven) But...
Take (say) a Jones and Shipman 1310 universal grinder. When seeking maximum precision in cylindrical grinding work,, you lock up the headstock centre, rendering it "dead", and then work between "dead" centres. Conveniently, there's (there was on older models) a little reservoir of oil in the tailstock, with an applicator quill to oil centre holes before mounting workpieces...
A "running" centre is not a "live" centre, and a "solid" centre isn't necessarily "dead", since in a lathe headstock, it's "live" or "driven"
@@robertlawson8572 and you are correct. I used dead center for solid center. An old machinist taught me how to use them. And his very old Monarch had the reservoir on the tail stock for lube, he used white lead and a tad of way oil to keep things smooth. You also had to monitor part temperature as you machined, if it started getting too warm, it would get longer, and try to warp the part being turned (rifle barrels).
the solution for finding the right angle for morse taper is great!!!