Davie boy. Another fantastic bit of creativity for us to watch with your efforts. Always a joy to watch. Well done you. AGAIN.....Magic. Who needs netflix/
That'll form a neat and super strong arch . Reckon you should get that shrinker stretcher machine soon, I got one mounted to to the rotisserie and modded it to be foot operated , so much easier to use. 👍
Evening Dave. Well I’m back in work already so it’s Escort MK1 rebuild time lol 😆 I had no doubt that the gas man in the man cave would sort that bubble arch out 😊 It’s great that your RUclips subs are growing and gone over 3k 👍🏻 It goes without saying you’ve a fantastic channel matey 👍🏻 Keep the good work up and I’ll try a catch up some more episodes this week in my lorry 🤣
What about putting a top coat around the tub / return lip and the inside of the arch before bonding them Dave ? Primer is only so good at keeping moisture out, you could just brush some form of paint, even a single stage to the areas you will bond. Coming along well, keep at it mate.
Nicely done Dave👏 just one tip wear gloves with that sealant or you will be five days before it comes off your hands, used it a lot when I was a hgv mechanic 👍
More good work Dave, well done. An alternative suggestion to using tape to mark the bubble arch position/inner arch width that I have seen used is to roll a washer around against the bubble arch with a marker pen in the middle of the washer, gets you a constant distance from the bubble arch in a quick and easy manner. Haven't done it myself but it makes some sense so thought it worth passing on. Thanks for the video, always great to watch.
Great job Dave think I would cut out the template for the other side and weld on lip again and keep both sides the same as you have had a good result all be it a bit labour intensive .great work keep it look forward to the next video!!
Glad it worked out, I suggested the flange too as well as the filler rod and tiger seal. I served my apprenticeship as a panel beater in a Citroen dealership in the 90’s and almost every Citroen and Peugeot quarter panel was bonded to a flange on the inner arch as opposed to being spot welded around the lip, and they never rotted in comparison to the Fords and Vauxhalls of the same vintage…..they rotted in plenty of other places though 😀 Tbh I would have it done it the same way as you, although I think I would have had the flange pointing up the way as opposed to hanging down, but it makes no real difference either way. Well done, great vid 👍🏻
@@DavesGarageuk I get why folk cover everything in zinc to stop flash rusting (I do it myself), but I would take the zinc off and etch / epoxy prime and paint all the inside of the arch and the mating faces on the tub before bonding the arch, (obviously leaving an inch or so at where the arch will be welded to the outer quarter) as the zinc is good as a weld through coating, but no substitute for a properly painted finish in terms of corrosion protection. I generally paint the inside of all my welded panels (just as I would on the outside) before fitting and only leave the actual welded contact points in zinc weld through primer. Again it’s personal preference but I find it works better for me and holds the tin worm away for longer👍🏻
Dave, a good outcome after a very long winded exercise. I don’t think you should cut the other arch 10 wider because try to bend the flange on the curve evenly will make distorted arch. Now that you have a template I would use that to cut a pretty accurate tub to mate up better to the inside of the bubble arch and repeat the flange- making process as you did on the offside arch. That way you should end up with another clean curve.
Turned out great Dave. Thanks for the mention! I re-finished the rear arches on my son's Mk4 Astra several years ago, and that's how Vauxhall do it, inner arch glued to outer arch about 25mm up from the outer flange, then about 5mm thick underseal sprayed over all of it so that it rots away merrily behind completely unseen! But seriously, Astra rear arches outlive lots of other cars that use the 2 flanges spot welded together setup. You can't beat Tigerseal. I used to use Sikaflex, which is a good product, but Tigerseal is identical as far as I can see, just as good but about half the price. As you would say, "happy days!"
You should use a 2pak panel bond if you're not going to weld the inner to outer. I don't like using urothane unless it's on painted panels as it pulls moisture when it cures.
Was just an idea, universal arch, spot welded in place, fingers pointing up, your mastic pre applied to the bubble arch, when brought together the fingers of the arch sink into the bond, greater surface area grabbed by the bond, stronger joint......as I said, just an idea
Hi Dave. Watching. You do your arches. Have you tried. To make a flange. Use. A piece of 12 mm or so round. Solid bar. Cut a slot in the bar the thickness of the metal. I’ve. Made return flange. On my mini. Wheel arch. Try it. Clive
Another enjoyable video, love the way you just give it a go.... Like the light on your welding helmet, what's the brand and where did you get it from. Keep up the videos....
I been waiting and looking forward to this vid all week ( I’m sad and don’t get out much lol ) and was wondering how you were gonna sort this Dave and jolly well done sir lovely job. I recently used some of that tiger seal to stick the rear spoiler back on my my jag xf after it started lifting , I initially used the 3m body tape that lasted a week it was rubbish then used this and I must say it works fabulously and really does what it says on tin it’s great stuff 👍
Hi John, nope neither, unfortunately, it's a type 48 export shell, so has the type 49 strengthening, but has a different way of locating the rear axle.
That looks like a good outcome, glad my comment contributed something useful to the process. Cheers for the mention.
You're welcome 😊
I got rid of my MK1 1300XL in 1980 for MK2 1600 GHIA…. I wish I still had both…. really enjoying the vids, I’m hooked👍
I wish I still had a number of my cars 🤣 hindsight is a wonderful thing
Clever method 👏👏👏
more good work dave
Davie boy. Another fantastic bit of creativity for us to watch with your efforts. Always a joy to watch. Well done you. AGAIN.....Magic. Who needs netflix/
Thank you John 😊 glad you enjoyed
Buy that shrinker stretcher, then you can tip that edge with your bead roller.
Petri from Finland
Got one on order Petri, looking forward to having a go with it
Test it, try it, it's only metal. And RUclips is full of great teaching videos. Of making that tipped edge i mean.
Another great video from you, very interesting again. Thanks and keep them coming soon. 👍
That'll form a neat and super strong arch . Reckon you should get that shrinker stretcher machine soon, I got one mounted to to the rotisserie and modded it to be foot operated , so much easier to use. 👍
Thanks Marty, got one on order, looking forward to learning how to use it.
Evening Dave. Well I’m back in work already so it’s Escort MK1 rebuild time lol 😆 I had no doubt that the gas man in the man cave would sort that bubble arch out 😊 It’s great that your RUclips subs are growing and gone over 3k 👍🏻 It goes without saying you’ve a fantastic channel matey 👍🏻 Keep the good work up and I’ll try a catch up some more episodes this week in my lorry 🤣
Thanks Stevie, have a good week 👍
What about putting a top coat around the tub / return lip and the inside of the arch before bonding them Dave ?
Primer is only so good at keeping moisture out, you could just brush some form of paint, even a single stage to the areas you will bond.
Coming along well, keep at it mate.
Thanks for the suggestion Jim, that's a good idea. 👍
Nicely done Dave👏 just one tip wear gloves with that sealant or you will be five days before it comes off your hands, used it a lot when I was a hgv mechanic 👍
Good shout Sid 😊👍
More good work Dave, well done. An alternative suggestion to using tape to mark the bubble arch position/inner arch width that I have seen used is to roll a washer around against the bubble arch with a marker pen in the middle of the washer, gets you a constant distance from the bubble arch in a quick and easy manner. Haven't done it myself but it makes some sense so thought it worth passing on. Thanks for the video, always great to watch.
Thanks, I'll try and remember thar tip 👍
Great job Dave think I would cut out the template for the other side and weld on lip again and keep both sides the same as you have had a good result all be it a bit labour intensive .great work keep it look forward to the next video!!
Cheers Dusty 👍
very nicely done sir 👍👍👌👌
Glad it worked out, I suggested the flange too as well as the filler rod and tiger seal. I served my apprenticeship as a panel beater in a Citroen dealership in the 90’s and almost every Citroen and Peugeot quarter panel was bonded to a flange on the inner arch as opposed to being spot welded around the lip, and they never rotted in comparison to the Fords and Vauxhalls of the same vintage…..they rotted in plenty of other places though 😀
Tbh I would have it done it the same way as you, although I think I would have had the flange pointing up the way as opposed to hanging down, but it makes no real difference either way.
Well done, great vid 👍🏻
Thanks pal, your suggestion was a huge help, I'm much more confident that it'll be a good watertight fit now. 👍
@@DavesGarageuk I get why folk cover everything in zinc to stop flash rusting (I do it myself), but I would take the zinc off and etch / epoxy prime and paint all the inside of the arch and the mating faces on the tub before bonding the arch, (obviously leaving an inch or so at where the arch will be welded to the outer quarter) as the zinc is good as a weld through coating, but no substitute for a properly painted finish in terms of corrosion protection.
I generally paint the inside of all my welded panels (just as I would on the outside) before fitting and only leave the actual welded contact points in zinc weld through primer.
Again it’s personal preference but I find it works better for me and holds the tin worm away for longer👍🏻
Dave, a good outcome after a very long winded exercise. I don’t think you should cut the other arch 10 wider because try to bend the flange on the curve evenly will make distorted arch. Now that you have a template I would use that to cut a pretty accurate tub to mate up better to the inside of the bubble arch and repeat the flange- making process as you did on the offside arch. That way you should end up with another clean curve.
I've done it before, sort of, if you're careful and slow you'd be surprised what can be done. What's the worst that can happen 🤣🤣
Turned out great Dave. Thanks for the mention! I re-finished the rear arches on my son's Mk4 Astra several years ago, and that's how Vauxhall do it, inner arch glued to outer arch about 25mm up from the outer flange, then about 5mm thick underseal sprayed over all of it so that it rots away merrily behind completely unseen! But seriously, Astra rear arches outlive lots of other cars that use the 2 flanges spot welded together setup. You can't beat Tigerseal. I used to use Sikaflex, which is a good product, but Tigerseal is identical as far as I can see, just as good but about half the price. As you would say, "happy days!"
Thanks Bob, very useful info there, ta.
Fantastic workmanship as usual Dave
You should copy that template for the tube and sell them pal
It's gonna save a fair bit on the other side, hopefully...
Check out retropower tool time on mk1 escort tubs and tipping edges
Thanks, I'll check that out, love the work those guys do.
Dave what ya doin! Dave, hold my beer.
🤣🤣🤣
You should use a 2pak panel bond if you're not going to weld the inner to outer. I don't like using urothane unless it's on painted panels as it pulls moisture when it cures.
Very nice work. Like the idea of the lamp on the welding helmet. Is it a welding tool,,or did you adapt it from another application?
It's a hiking type head torch that I've bolted to my welding helmet, works very well as it happens 😊
@@DavesGarageuk Thanks, looks like a trip to my local bike shop
Great video, enjoying the work, why didn't you just use a universal wheel arch and spot weld in place, plenty flex for adjusting and already angled
I don't know 🤣
Was just an idea, universal arch, spot welded in place, fingers pointing up, your mastic pre applied to the bubble arch, when brought together the fingers of the arch sink into the bond, greater surface area grabbed by the bond, stronger joint......as I said, just an idea
Hi Dave. Watching. You do your arches. Have you tried. To make a flange. Use. A piece of 12 mm or so round. Solid bar. Cut a slot in the bar the thickness of the metal. I’ve. Made return flange. On my mini. Wheel arch. Try it. Clive
Watch this space, I have a similar ish way. 😁
defo use panel bond to seal arch on, and as Fitzee would, use the same method to make the other arch.....
👍
Hi Dave clever guy ,how are you attaching the arch ,I’ve seen these guys in America who stick the panels on instead of welding
Another enjoyable video, love the way you just give it a go.... Like the light on your welding helmet, what's the brand and where did you get it from. Keep up the videos....
Thanks Leon, the light is simply a hiking type head lamp that I've bolted to the helmet. Works a treat.
I been waiting and looking forward to this vid all week ( I’m sad and don’t get out much lol ) and was wondering how you were gonna sort this Dave and jolly well done sir lovely job. I recently used some of that tiger seal to stick the rear spoiler back on my my jag xf after it started lifting , I initially used the 3m body tape that lasted a week it was rubbish then used this and I must say it works fabulously and really does what it says on tin it’s great stuff 👍
Thanks, good to know 👍
Could you use the existing wheel arch and cut off the lip and weld that to the tub
If it wasn't rusted away, possibly
Nice one dave it does look like a fiddly job doing the bubble arches. Is it a rs 2000 or a Mexico?
Hi John, nope neither, unfortunately, it's a type 48 export shell, so has the type 49 strengthening, but has a different way of locating the rear axle.
Great job Dave, don't drag the project out for to many years, we don't want to see you on CAR SOS. 🤔
🤣
👍🏻🍺👏
What mig welder do you use Dave?
R-Tec 180, excellent machine. I've done a quick review on it ruclips.net/video/TFujD7NfUNU/видео.html
@@DavesGarageuk thank you mate, expensive bit of kit
@@finleyk it's not cheap, but worth every penny