Ruger PC Carbine Ejection Fixed, FINALLY! And it wasn't the extractor!
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 23 янв 2022
- I finally fixed the ejection problem with my Ruger PC Carbine. If you watched my video about the upgrades I made to my rifle, you'll remember me talking about the ejection problems I was having. Not anymore! And it wasn't the extractor.
Спорт
![NoCap - Maliboo [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/FUV7E0QyniU/mqdefault.jpg)
I too reload for every caliber I own, shot guns included, I bought the PC9 when it first came out in 2017, I was like everyone else, disappointed, I found MCarbo on the web and started upgrading everything they came out with to try and make this thing function 100% what good is a firearm if when you need it to go boom it doesn't. Anyway, I replaced every spring, pins, bumper everything with the same results, stovepipe or failure to eject. Then I just found your RUclips video on this, I haven't had this thing out for years, I thought, no way something as simple as knocking off that tiny little corner wound be the cats meow! I loaded up all 3 of my 17 round Ruger mags, went to my shooting range in my lower 4acres and dumped all 3 as fast as I could pull the trigger, I even shot from my hip and did the pointer finger trick, not one failure, 100%. success!!! Thank you Al! this thing is a blast!
I'm picturing what your giant smile must look like, and I think it's something like this 😀😀😀. There is nothing worse than a gun that doesn't work, so I feel your pain. It doesn't take much friction to slow down the bolt and cause the issues that you are seeing. With all of the returns Ruger must have gotten, you think that they would have figured this out. I did find another issue that you might experience. The latch that holds the barrel to the receiver has now started to back out during use, and causes the barrel to rotate out of battery. I cannot come up with a reason why, as it seems impossible when you examine the components and the design, but it's done it several times. I made a small latch that holds it from backing out, and that cured the problem. If you ever have this happen let me know and I'll put up a video. However, about 3 months ago I bought a TACCOM lightweight barrel for it, and the barrel is permanently attached to the trunnion block, so no more latch, no more problem. This upgrade is amazing, it takes about 22 ounces off the front of the gun. It takes standard AR hand guards, so if you get a carbon fiber one, you save another 6 or so ounces. If you do any sort of action shooting you need one. Anyway, glad I could help, happy shooting!
I purchased a new Ruger PCC a couple of months ago. Almost every round would hang up between the bolt and receiver (Stove Piped). After beveling the edge you demonstrated it has never stove piped again. Thank you for posting!
Excellent! And why can't Ruger figure this out??? All they do when you send one back is replace the extractor with another inferior extractor.
Not to mention the problems you had with Mcarbo.
@@PorkBarrel. At least Mcarbo owned up to the bad pins and replaced them right away. My newest problem is that the barrel is coming loose and rotating while firing. I don't know what is causing it, but I made a fix to keep it in place. If you ever have this issues let me know so I can help you with it. I should just post the fix. Stand by.
Bought a new PC carbine and after about 100 rounds, had severe ejection problems - while cleaning, I looked up this video and filed a small amount from the place specified as I found it to be rough and sharp as Al pointed out. Problem solved completely. Many thanks. ~ Bill
Bill, glad I was able to help. With so many people having ejection/feeding issues with this gun, I would have thought that Ruger would have been able to figure it out by now instead of just throwing parts at it. I think it's time to send my video to them and see what they think. It would not be a bad idea to at least change the extractor to an Mcarbo one as it gets more grip on the rim.
@@CompShooter54 I've seen multiple reports of mcarbo ones breaking.
I've also read the factory extractor wears quick...
Can you give me an update since you posted?
@@nickf6794 Nick, the cut in the factory extractor is not deep enough and the material seems to be soft, making it wear quickly. My Mcarbo extractor is sill working, but one of the 2 Mcarbo bolt pins broke during a match. I called them and they sent me a new set right away. They said that there was a batch where the heat treating was bad. This is a typical excuse for parts that break, used by just about anyone that sells stuff. Sadly, Mcarbo is better than factory, but the design is the real problem. Tandemkross also makes one but I have no feedback on if they work or not.
@@CompShooter54 thanks for replying. Im going to take a tiny handheld rotory tool with a tiny grinding disk and modify stock extractor.
I ordered a sanding kit do shave the section of bolt off you did also.
How many shots on the mcarbo extractor do you have?
One guy i talked to said his mcarbo broke within 50 shots, next guy says 2000 shots no issue... Not sure about it.
Last question, if you google search "ruger pc9 bent ejector fix" there is a forum where a guy takes a vice and hammer and slightly rounds the ejector... He posted a bunch of pictures.
he says the reason is factory ejector gets hit by inserted loaded magazine causing the ejector to contact the bolt.
Curious what you think about doing that.
He says he bent the ejector so its no longer being hit by a loaded magazine and says he fired thousands of shots no issue after the fix.
Thx again for reply
@@nickf6794 Nick, Let me start with the first question. I think that I have over 2000 rounds with the Mcarbo extractor with no issues that I can attribute to that. Now for the ejector issue. I don't think that the person that thinks the ejector is the issue does not understand how it functions. Try this test. Lock open the bolt and put in an empty mag. If you look into the ejection port you will see that the ejector does not hit anywhere on the magazine. At least in my gun with Glock brand mags. If you are using aftermarket mags maybe it will, but in mine it doesn't, so I can slam all day long and never bend the ejector. Remove the mag and while looking into the ejection port, slowly release the bolt and watch the ejector disappear into the bolt. Did it bend while going in? Mine doesn't, and yours shouldn't. Now load a few rounds into a mag, and with the bolt open insert the mag while looking into the port. Please do this in a safe area just in case, or use a dummy round. Does the top round hit the ejector? Mine does not. Can you feel resistance while pushing in the mag just before it locks? I do not. Remove the mag and close the bolt, and insert the loaded mag until it locks. You should have felt some resistance about an eight of an inch before the mag locks. This is normal because the top round will be contacting the underside of the bolt. The round DOES NOT contact the ejector with the bolt closed, because it sits in the groove in the bolt that you saw while slowly closing the bolt.
I would like you to send me the link to what you saw about bending and modifying the ejector. It's impossible to bend that thing while loading the mag, with or without ammo in it.
Keep in touch and let me know what happens.
After watching your video I did a light file job on that bolt head rear corner. Mine is filed (and polished) in a bevel angle, not rounded.
BTW, I installed a 20% heavier TANDEMKROSS spring. Along with an MCARBO buffer pad and the MCARBO extractor my bolt is running with no problems at all.
Thanks Al for posting this. I did this mod and went through 150 rounds without a hiccup. Thanks for ending two years of quiet disappointment!
Glad I could be of help. I wish Ruger could figure this out, maybe I'll send them this video. I had another issue crop up after about 5,000 rounds. The barrel is now rotating out of position during a string of fire. I have shot this gun enough over the last 4 years to know that my finger is not moving the unlocking pin in the fore end, which should be the only way unlocking the barrel should happen. My technique for tightening the barrel is to loosen the lock nut, lock the barrel into place, tighten the locknut as tight as I can by hand, unlock the barrel and add another 1 or 2 clicks, then rotate it back into place, making sure I feel some resistance while rotating. I have been using this technique for 4 years without an issue, so I can't figure what is going on. I will post a video about this, and the fix I made, in the next week or 2. If you have subscribed you will get notified when it posts. Stand by.
I bought mine in Nov 2018 and ran a few hundred rounds through it, uneventfully. My club in AZ hosts a big USPSA area match each year, and as an RO I saw a number of Rugers in PCC division so I thought I'd give mine a try. I felt the trigger was too heavy compared to my ARs so I tried the MCarbo hammer spring, but that resulted in a lot of misfires (and they have since discontinued it). Reinstalling the OEM spring eliminated the misfires. As for feeding and ejection, mine has been nearly flawless with about 6K of my reloads, which are 124 FMJs at 1200 fps. The only trouble I had on loading was trying to insert a fully topped off mag on a closed bolt (for an unloaded start) when I forgot to download a round or two. I'm still looking for a better trigger, but other than that I've been extremely pleased with my PC - guess I got a good one!
I'm glad to hear that. If your reloads have a very rounded crimp and a higher velocity you might be OK. A full trigger is made by Volquartsen, for around $300, or they just sell a trigger that should get you down to about 2 pounds. Ask the other Ruger shooters what they are using for triggers.
@@CompShooter54 Unfortunately, VQ stopped making those triggers a year or more ago. None of the 'names' in the 10/22 realm like KIDD, Brimstone, Tandemkross or others seem interested in the PC. My search continues!
Al, thanks very much for your tip! I had lots of FTEs, stovepipes that screwed me during a match and I could not diagnose what was the cause. I tried switching ammunition, magazines, and could not figure it out until I saw your video. So I took a dremel and polished it the way you outlined and today I shot five boxes, rapid fire and I only had one stovepipe - possibly because I was resting the mag on the table. Thanks again!
Excellent! Glad it worked out for you! Now you can go to the matches and concentrate on your shooting and not on gun problems!
Was pretty much set on buying the his gun tomorrow and came across your video. Thank you for putting all of this information out there and helping newbies to this platform (like me). It’s really impressive that you would take the time to do so. And if anyone from Ruger is reading this I
suggesting paying this man a consulting fee. You would recoup it many times over in customer satisfaction.
Thanks for the kind comments! I wouldn't be afraid of buying this gun, it does have a few quirks, but they can be fixed. If you shoot factory ammo it will probably work OK for you. You can always ask me other questions if you buy one and you have issues.
@@CompShooter54 Thank you so much for the offer, Al! I'm really leaning hard for this as my (first) PCC. Even when I compare it against the CMMG Banshee which is 20% off right now on their site, with tax and delivery it's very expensive. I prefer keeping controls similar to my AR, but considering I can get a charger for under $600 locally no FFL/shipping it's almost a no brainer. I also feel much better should any of the failures happen after watching your video! I'll keep you apprised, Al.
@@DeltaCharlie27 If you have any issues, I'll be here.
@@CompShooter54 thank you, Al! 🙏 Just out of curiosity did you ever try the Freedom Ordnance FX9?
@@DeltaCharlie27 Sorry, I have not. I don't know anyone that has one either. Have you heard good things about them?
Great video and great explanation brother! I really appreciate the time you spent on this. Well done!
Thanks for the kind words! We shooters need to stick together, so I figure what worked for me might work for others! Share the wealth I say.
Thanks this cured my PCC, after new extractors twice, new ejector and recoil spring. Shot a match today no more problems. Thanks again.
Glad I could be of help. I wish Ruger could figure it out. The extractor should help as well. Did you replace it with Ruger or aftermarket brand?
Great video, I guess I’m fortunate to never have experienced such FTE problems. If I do I will definitely try your fix.
I hope you don't either, but many have.
I want to thank you for the tip . This was one of the problems plaguing my weapon . Did what you suggested and can feel the difference. Checked it before and after . 👍
Another satisfied customer! Glad I could be of help.
Yes
So glad I found this Channel! just got back from a frustrating day at the Range. A couple of FTE with my Ruger tactical is a few too many. I'm not sure if your model would apply to mines? but that's a very interesting solution and I'm definitely gonna check for that. I'm brand new in the game, the Ruger pcc being my first "rifle". learning so much, Thank you.
Thanks for checking it out! Just fixed another one at my club that was stovepiping. Do this test in a safe place. Load up a mag to full capacity and cycle the rounds by hand. Ten rounds should be enough. Look at the rounds and see if the brass has a streak on it, and if the case mouth has a nick on it with a streak following down the case. If it does, the you need to round off the area that I show. Also, before fixing the bolt, load up another mag and slowly work the action. Shortly after the bolt starts moving rearward you will feel it catch on the round in the mag. After rounding off the bolt you will no longer feel that catch. Let me know how it works out!
TIP: Get a TANDEMKROSS or TACCOM dual lever safety to replace the awkward button safety. MUCH more ergonomic safety release/reset. This lever safety avoids the complaints people have about moving the hand on the stock or pistol grip, depending on the model you have. Plus it is totally ambidextrous for left handers or when shooting "weak" side.
I'll have a look at that, thanks for the tip!
I picked up one of these rifles second hand and I want to love it so bad, but it just is not reliable... It was have probably a stoppage every magazine, sometimes more. And not real pattern... sometimes FTF, FTE, stovepipes... The extractor is a known issue (I plan to replace mine) but this video makes alot of sense since I was experiencing different types of stoppages. Thanks
Thanks - this is very interesting / I am just starting to engage the issue of extraction. Ruger has sent me a replacement extractor and I am going to use a heavier load before deciding to change it. However, your suggestion is something I will certainly be thinking about. Thanks again.
Thanks for watching! You would think that Ruger would have figured this out by now.
I had heard of this 3 years ago after i bought my ruger pc carbine. Decided to run 500 rds of steel case first to "break it in". Never had a single malfunction. Now has mcarbo internals and still flawless. .75in groups at 100yds...think i got a good one! 2k rounds plus later
Glad to here that. I'm starting to think it's an ammo issue in combination with the bolt. If there is a generous crimp, and a hot round, it will overcome the sharp edge of the bolt. A straight crimp and soft loads maybe not.
Makes sense now why reloaders were complaining about damaged brass.
edit: Just ran my finger over my newly bought one and the ledge sticks out on other side of bolt and should not be a problem. Wonder if they've made modifications based on your vid :)
Thank you! Let’s fix my ejection problem!
Thank you for sharing! Truly appreciate it!
You're welcome!
Excellent demonstration!
Thanks! Do you need to do it, or is your gun OK?
@@CompShooter54 mine seems to be fine now, but definitely will keep an eye on it
thank you so much sir!!! regards from Argentine!
Thanks from Argentine.
Ruger makes life difficult for its customers. It was thoughtful of you to do a video on fixing the PC 9 Carbine injection problem, but why would I buy a gun from Ruger that's made to fail? Ruger's indifference to customers' feedback on this issue is another example of a large firearm company ripping off its customers.
I agree. They get so many calls about this very problem, you would think they would try to find the issue and not just throw parts at it. They are lucky there really is no competition out there that uses this platform, everything else is AR style. I have to send back an LC9s because the trigger pull is dangerously low. It is at 3 pounds and the factory tells me it should be at 5-6. This they will fix because they don't want to be sued if someone shoots their man parts off while drawing from an appendix holster.
Well I got my LC9s back from the factory, and guess what? They replaced the trigger spring, fired 21 rounds through it, and the trigger pull is now 3.5 pounds, not between 5 and 6.5 as they said is factory. When I was on the phone with the nice customer service lady, I asked if they could make it toward the upper end of 6.5, and she noted that on the paperwork. Now I still have a gun with the same issue as before. Very disappointing.
Sweet video very informative!
thanks for info... my new carbine had two ejection failures with each of the 8 Ruger Mags using various factory ammo. My second outing and after installing mcarbo extractor had only two stove pipes with Tula steel, the brass and aluminum ejected 100% great. I did not do any filing yet and will see how things go.
Good to know. Ammo does make a difference, with the amount of crimp and power being the 2 contributors for the failures.
Thx allot! I just bought thus gun and noticed allot of RUclips videos with other's having same issue! Now I know what to do if I come across the same thing.
I hope you never have an issue, it really is a great gun. But if you do....Oh, and a new issue came up, The barrel now comes lose while shooting it, after bout 6,000 rounds through it. I have done nothing different with how I secure the barrel after 4 years of owning it. I will be posting a video about it shortly, and how I fixed it.
Brother, you just solved my problem. Thanks 😊 🙏
Glad to hear it helped. Were you having problems similar to mine?
@@CompShooter54 same. One round in the chamber and a empty casing mess up between the receiver and the bolt assembly.
@@luisc3682 If that doesn't fix it change the extractor. Between both of these mods you should be good to go!
buying a ruger pc and thought to watch video's on reliability. thanks for letting us know about this issue and how to fix it!👍👍
Thanks for watching and glad I could help! Did you see my other video on the Ruger? Lots of good info there as well. Overall the Ruger is a great rifle. It now has a great 2 pound trigger (did some work on it), is accurate as I need it to be, and now 100% reliable. I used to shoot USPSA matches with it, but have gone back to pistol for this year. I only shoot steel plate matches with it now and have been very successful with it, usually I finish within the top five out of 40 to 50 rifle shooters, and all the other shooters are using AR style 9mm carbines. Check out some of the videos on my channel. After you get yours feel free to contact me if you have any questions or issues with it.
@@CompShooter54 how reliable are the newer ones with the m-lock rails?
@@nyyanksny03 I can't say, but I think the bolt and all the other internals are the same, so the POTENTIAL is still there. I say potential because if you only shoot factory ammo, or have a tight crimp you your reloads, you may be OK.
@@CompShooter54 just got this yesterday, been seeing a lot of issues seem to be when you change to Glocc mags.
@@nyyanksny03 Great, I think you will really like it. I have only shot Glock mags since the day I got it in the end of 2018. I have shot it with 10 and 33 round Glock brand mags, and have never had a single malfunction with those mags, and never had an issue with the 33 at any practice session, only in a match. Since time is a factor in a match I never had the luxury to stop and analyze the problem, just cleared the stovepipe and continued shooting. I will say that The 33's are a bit loose and wobble in the magwell, but since doing what I have shown in the video I have not had a single malfunction. I'm going to wrap some electrical tape around the mags to tighten up the fit and see if it makes any difference. Let me know if you have any issues with your new toy!
just got one these beautiful rifles and having problems right out the bat. im going to try this and maybe upgrading the trigger 🇺🇲👍
I have been going back and forth with a commenter here that sent his rifle back to Ruger because he couldn't get through a mag without issues. He was using Ruger 10 round mags and various brands and bullet weights of ammo. Ruger said it was fixed, but was just as bad as when he sent it back. Check through the comments and you should find the conversation. What mags are you using? What kind of problems are you having? Factory ammo or handloads?
Great tip. Thanks alot
Great video, thank you.
You're welcome.
Ive not experienced this on mine. But still under a 1000 rounds and I put taper on my loads. But Im still going to do this. As it will still add more smoothness in the action. And solve a possible issue. Many Thanks
Glad it was helpful. It's one of those mods that can do no harm, even if you don't need it. Before you do it, get a feel for how it felt before, and then after the mod, and left me know if you can feel a difference. For me it was huge, cut the feel in half, and not a single stovepipe in 7 months.
Nice fix! Wish Ruger would fix it.
They have had so many complaints I don't know why they didn't do an evaluation instead of just changing the extractor.
I will look into this. Just got my ruger pcc last week. Had at max maybe 8-10 "stove pipes" and 2-3 failure to chamber (was using hollowpoint) with the 500 rounds I've shot so far. Been using mostly Fiochhi ammo, but I did buy Winchester once. Love Winchesters casings cause they don't have that rough edge around the projectile. I still want to change to aftermarket extractor but for now I'm gunna stop buying fiochhi and try just Winchester for a couple hundred rounds. Also should mention I've recently bought a 32rd SR-9 mag made by Promag and only use both the factory and aftermarket mag. Only issue with aftermarket mag is failure to activate bolt stop after last round.
It's really sad that Ruger can't figure this out. What if a police agency bought these for their officers? It's one thing to have it fail while target shooting, but to have it fail when your life is on the line? It's the follower design on the magazine that must be not correct for the bolt to not stay open. Will it stay open if you rack it by hand? Or does this happen only when firing it? If you do the fix it should cure the issue with all ammo.
Hi Al - thanks for the video. Your accent doesn’t sound weird to me at all as I’m also in state! Question - what did you use to file the bolt?
Nice, someone else that understands the language of MA! I just used a fine tooth file to round it off, then polished it on a Scothbrite wheel on my grinder. Once you round it off with the file, If you don't have a Scothbrite wheel, just use some 400 grit sandpaper to start, and work your way to about 800. The smoother the finish the better.
Thanks. I'll definitely look into this.
Let me know if you do it and how it worked out for you.
@@CompShooter54 Will do. I just need the right weekend to investigate. Did you use a Dremel tool to round off?
@@scott1lori282 I used a hand file, as I thought I would have better control. I own 4 Dremel tools and sometimes get too carried away, if you know what I mean. I have a 6" Scotchbite wheel on my bench grinder and did the final polish with that. The Scotchbrite will also cut metal, so you need to be careful with that as well. What I didn't mention in the video is that I also slightly rounded the end of the long surface where it meets what you will be rounding. It felt a bit sharp and I didn't want that to catch on the rim of the next cartridge in the mag as it was stripping the top one. Maybe I'm just being paranoid? You can decide if you need to do that. For me it was an afterthought several months after I did the main fix.
@@CompShooter54 Ok, thanks. I'll be doing most likely, Not that I've had trouble but like I said I only have a few hundred rds fired.
I just want to make it as reliable as possible. Seems like it's built like a tank that only needs a few tweeks.
Hey man I just come from the range with my new pc9. Used twice now. 300 rounds today. And had about 30 fail to eject. Very upsetting. I will contact Ruger Monday. Or maybe I will just try this option. I truly hope this works for me. Thanks for your help with this issue I will be updating so everyone can see if your video help. Thank you
It's amazing that after almost 5 years Ruger hasn't figured out how to fix this problem. The extractor is a flimsy piece of crap that has hardly any hook on it at all. An aftermarket one will help some, but not completely. The extractor should be like the ones on the pistols that grab about 1/3rd of the rim instead of about 1/20th. Did you try manually racking the bolt over a full mag and see if the bolt catches on the mouth of the case? Someone posted that it snagged with copper bullets but not with polymer bullets. You should probably try having Ruger fix it first, but I'm hearing that it comes back still not working. Can I ask what brand and weight of bullet are using? What magazines are you using and what capacity? This can make a difference as well, but a well designed gun should feed, fire, and eject everything. Has your barrel come loose while firing yet? Mine has started doing this now, after 5 years and thousands of rounds. Argh. Let me know how it works out with the racking test, and with Ruger.
Same here. I think Ruger knows the problem but they're playing dumb because it may lead to a recall and put the onus on them to fix them up for free. That would be very costly for them so they're hoping guys like Al will figure it out and share with the rest of us
Thank you for the video! I've been looking into this FTE issue, but w/ my Ruger PC Charger. I was only having FTE issues when using ETS mags. I ordered an M*CARBO extractor for it. Seems like it should fix the issue. I wonder if this tip you're giving translates to the issue w/ the PC Charger. Regardless, thank you for the info!
Floyd. I think that the receiver and bolt are all the same, but I can't be sure. If you are only having FTE issues try the Mcarbo kit first. My issue was in part due to the fact that I am using reduced power reloads, so any restriction with the bolt coming all the way back would cause problems for me. Hopefully the Mcarbo kit will do the trick, and it should if you are using factory ammo. I'm curious, what are ETS mags? I have never heard of them. Are they the clear ones?
Hello from Sweden 🇸🇪
Hello Sweden, nice to have you.
my friend, great explanation! My problem with my PC9, identical to yours, is extraction, when the case is trapped by the bolt when trying to insert the next ammunition. Is it the same problem you had? Or you can describe what exactly was wrong so I can decide if I solve it as you suggest or not. Thank you
Hello, thanks for the question. A stovepipe is when the empty case will get stuck between the bolt and the chamber, with the open part of case pointing out. This is because the bolt is hanging up on it's rearward travel, and it doesn't come back far enough to complete the extraction cycle and pick up the next round. What year did you buy your carbine? I'm curious if it was just the first ones, or if the current ones do it as well. If you read the comments you will see that many owners have fixed their guns by polishing this area.
Good video, where did you get the trigger parts, I would like to upgrade.
Sorry, I thought I had answered 2 months ago when you posted it. The purple trigger was just off of Ebay, nothing special, it's just aluminum instead of plastic. The hammer is a Volquartsen, and is the same hammer that is in the 10/22 BX trigger. You can find one of these on Ebay as well. The pull is now down around 1.75-2.00 pounds now.
I've had the extraction issue and this look promising. Did you ever try American Eagle Syntech 150gr in the PCC? I just did at the range and found it didn't exhibit the issue whereas Blazer Brass would. Looking at your video and looking at the rounds, the lip of the cartridge is more prominent on the Blazer Brass or American Eagle rounds I had vs the Syntech which because of the synthetic coating seems thicker and makes the lip less pronounced. This would seem to concur with your "fix" which I will definitely try.
Dave, I have never tried Syntech ammo, I shoot only handloads using copper plated bullets. I do have some Syntech, and can see that the crimp digs into the bullet a bit more than on copper, so that may be the reason that it works better. The bolt will slide over that area without getting snagged. You can try it by just loading a mag to the top and by cycling the action by hand you should be able to feel if the Blazer is snagging compared to the Syntech. Just don't set off a round in the house. I'd be interested to know if you can notice a difference. I can't test them in my gun because I already did the fix and everything feels smooth now. Let me know what you find out. I have a question for you now. Have you ever had your barrel get loose while shooting? After about 5 or 6,000 rounds my gun has learned this new trick. I have a fix for it which I will post shortly. The way I have always installed mine was to tighten it finger tight, then remove it from the receiver and give it 2 more clicks. Worked for 4 years. Now the locking pin backs out and the barrel rotates slightly, which causes the gun to stovepipe again. Once I click it back into place it works fine for a while then backs out again. Argh!!!!
I'm wondering if Ruger had a run of bad machined parts. I recently bought a PC-9 chassis and have run over 400 rounds without any problems. When I saw this video I checked the bolt and found that bolt face piece was recessed a little less than 1/2mm from the factory,just enough to feel the difference.
I bought mine in December of 2018, so it is possible if you bought yours recently, they may have discovered and fixed the problem. My issue started to show up at right around 500 rounds.
Thanks for sharing this. I'm picking my pc carbine in a few days and now I'm having second thoughts. Is this an easy fix with a dremel?
Don't be afraid of this rifle. Most people don't have this issue, but of you do, it is an easy fix with a Dremel or a file, and some fine emery paper for a final polish. Go for it!
@@CompShooter54 I'll give it a chance. I really like the takedown feature and the upgrades available, especially the wood furniture in your other video. Looking forward to see how it shoots!
@@kalashsquatch Great, let me know how it works out!
I got the pc charger about a year ago. It was flawless and my most fun gun to shoot until about 500ish rounds when I started having extraction issues. About 1 out of 10 rounds would not extract properly. I just spent about 200 dollars on all the Mcarbo parts and need to get back out to the range to see if it fixed my issue. Regardless it’s a great gun, I haven’t felt what he’s experiencing here but I’m going to pay extra attention to see if I notice it next time I shoot
@@MrWebcammer If you didn't change brands of ammo, it could be the extractor or the bolt pins. Since you upgraded everything, and if you didn't change ammo this might do it for you. I don't understand why Ruger put such a weak piece of crap extractor into this design. If they had used a more robust extractor, like the ones in their pistols, this wouldn't have become an issue.
thanx; your patience and feedback is appreciated. do you have a vid for disassembly for this modification (filing) ?
I do not, but Ruger does. And one for putting it back together.
ruclips.net/video/VG9hZQ06jnw/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/Xs9c-5ZQFzQ/видео.html
This is interesting. I did notice my dummy rounds were getting their shells shaved off from the bolt. Could be the issue.
If you do the little test I showed you'll know right away if you have that problem. A little filing and polishing will make a huge difference.
Hey Al, do you think the mcarbo buffer and Extractor for the Ruger PC9 are worth the money? Do you have any impressions?
I believe that the extractor is a must, the factory one does not have enough "claw" to grab the cartridge reliably. I tried to reshape the factory extractor and it didn't help much. I also think that you should change the 3 bolt pins as well. The factory ones are too soft and will start to deform after a while. Everything I have heard about the buffer is that it doesn't make the recoil feel any different, so I never got one. Some people on the internet say that it helps, but the competition shooters that I talk to said it didn't make any difference.
@@CompShooter54 Thank you.
Mine stovepipes factory ammunition of common grain weights (115, 124, 146) at a rate of about 1 in 15-20. So annoying. I may try this.
How new is the gun? It could also be the extractor. What mags are you using? This doesn't usually make a difference, but just curious.
Keeping this on hand, but I've got hundreds and hundreds of rounds and only a few issues during initial break in
A few weeks ago I was working with a guy who was having ejection issues with his gun after only about 500 rounds. I had him start with his current brand of ammo and had him hand cycle some rounds through the gun. When we looked at the ejected rounds we could see that the case mouth was nicked and there was a streak down the side of the case. And you could feel the bolt dragging at the point where that corner was making contact with the case mouth. After rounding off that edge there was no more cases getting nicked, and the bolt stopped dragging. Check your ammo to see if the case mouth feels sharp, or if it has a more rounded crimp. The ones with a rounded crimp work better, and you can feel the difference if the case has a sharp edge.
Is the heavier recoil spring for use with heavier rounds? (147 grain or defensive rounds) Or just in general for better reliability. It seems like MCarbo sold one years ago that I do not see available anymore. Making me wonder if it’s considered a good thing.
I don't understand the reason for a heavier recoil spring. I'm looking for a lighter one!!! All guns come from the factory with a recoil spring that will handle all ammo without causing damage to the gun. Mcarbo should state when to use it, if they actually have tested it. With the problems that the Ruger is having with ejection, I would stay away from a heavier spring.
@@CompShooter54 Thanks. I saw someone stating Tandemcross had one 20% heavier, and I was unsure why. As I stated MCarbo does not seem to have one on their site anymore. Thanks for getting back so quickly.
@@amendable5401 No problem. If you end up getting one please post here how it worked out and if you could feel a difference in the recoil.
@@amendable5401the heavier spring is supposed to reduce the slamming of the bolt into the back of the gun to help with felt recoil. Also if one runs +p ammo.
Hi Al I just bought my PC9 carbine with M lock rail stock I was wondering I do not have a grinder or the right tools is there any way you can round off my part for me if I send it to you Or do you have any idea of where I can go to request that work be done all the gunssmiths around here in California are afraid to do any modifications to these guns.
Wayne, I wouldn't do anything unless you start having problems. If you are using factory ammo you should be OK. If you do start having problems, try replacing the extractor first, as that has solved problems for people using factory ammo. I do not work on other peoples guns, sorry. If you want to round off that area yourself it is not done on a lathe, just use a hand file after taking the bolt apart. Then smooth it out with fine emery paper. You cannot do this without taking the bolt apart.
Ive been trying to figure this out for like 2 years! No wonder the bullet had a big divot/dent in it!
So why can't Ruger figure it out?
@@CompShooter54 exactly!
"... caatridge." Are you from Down East, say Maine? ;o)
BTW, my 2021 RUGER PC chassis carbine has only a very tiny corner on the underside of the bolt thus no hangups for me but thanks for threads up as I finally did round off that corner, just not as much as you did. But I DID add an M*CARBO extractor and pin plus a bolt buffer pad and wide bolt hold-open lever. Also an M*CARBO Mini Brake and extended mag release button. As well I have that same TACCOM flared mag well adaptor that you have. Great product and not too big as some others are.
For a sight I put a HOLOSUN AEMS circle/dot sight on the barrel rear Pic rail which that model has.(Added a 1/4" high MAGPUL MOE cheekpiece for perfect alignment with the AEMS reticle. The cheekpiece was MUCH less $$$ than a special height optic mount, faster install too. I am finally ready to compete in Steel Challenge here in the Las Vegas area.
🤣Busted! I'm not as far "Down" as Maine, but being close to Baaston doesn't help with the accent. Slight rounding and polishing of that area will still make for smoother operation of the bolt. Don't know if you did any trigger work, but just doing some polishing of the stock parts, changing the trigger return spring, and putting in a Volquartsen hammer got the pull down to under 2 pounds. If you saw my first video on the gun you'll see that I modified the stock hammer first, but after a while it went full auto - at a match of course - so I tossed it and put in the new one. Looks like you did all the right mods, now it's time to get out and beat the AR guys.
I have been to the Las Vegas area numerous times, mostly for work, but for vacations as well. I really love the desert, have done off road motorcycling out there - Dumont Dunes - and rented 4 x 4 trucks to just get out and explore. It must be nice to be able to shoot all year outside. It's been under 25 almost every day here for over a month, so no shooting.
It's time for me to go out and paak the caa before the snow comes. Enjoy the rifle!
You're right, after rounding off that center part I can no longer feel the drag on the bolt when cocking with a full magazine. Thank you for this tip. BTW, my 1st Steel Challenge competition is coming up in May. Fingers crossed.🤞
@@ericb.4358 Eric, that's great news! Is this your first Steel Challenge with any gun? Either way, good luck shooting it with the Ruger.
@@roberta949 I misread your comment about the buffer pad. I still have the stock pad and mine works with the Volquartsen hammer. The aftermarket pad must be thicker, and the hammer longer. If that's the case, just grind a bit off the hammer. I forgot to mention on your post that I also rounded the underside of the bolt where it contacts the hammer during recoil. It helps to give a more gradual motion, and less drag.
@@roberta949 The trigger doesn't really do anything except hold the sear. I changed mine because I didn't want plastic. I think the hammer from the new 10/22 trigger group will work, the trigger I bought is really for the 10/22 (is it the BK trigger?) and it dropped right in.
I had the retainer clip that holds the buffer onto the recoil spring and rod break…went to clean it after firing 50 rounds…when I took it apart a small piece of plastic fell out…when I pulled the spring and bolt out the buffer popped
off the rod…I have no idea why the clip would break
Art. Did the clip break or just come off? If the rod, buffer and spring are there and still usable, you can buy a metal clip from Mcarbo. I have heard that they can break, but you are the first person that I know of that it happened to. Below is a link to the part.
www.mcarbo.com/ruger-pc-carbine-stainless-steel-recoil-spring-retainer.aspx
600 roundson gen 3 pc carbine and here i have ejection problems at every load now. It dented a little the ejection edge chamber. The problems started immediately i added mc carbo set. I dont think is right to atrempt repairs since its just 2 months young. Ill send an email to rugger and see if warranty covers it😢
Interesting. How did the Mcarbo set cause the dent? Where is it exactly? Before you send it back, put back the original Ruger parts. Don't tell them that you changed them. They will fix it for free forever. Let me know how it all works out.
@CompShooter54 I have just removed the action with the mcarbo ejection claw and oh boy! It's almost entirely dented 😢 mcarbo lasted approx 300 rounds on my ruger. I have a photo to share
@@bogdanrusu9720 how can I see the photo?
Which red dot are you using? What moa size, thanks.
I am using the Bushnell TRS-25, but I don't know the actual dot size. They only make one, and if I was to guess I would say it's larger than 3, but smaller than 6. I bought 2, about 6 months apart and the one on the rifle is much better than the first one. The inside diameter of the tube is larger and the dot is much brighter. I called Bushnell to discuss this and they told me that they are made in China (who would have guessed that?) and sometimes there are differences from lot to lot. If you didn't have them side by side you would probably not be disappointed with either one. But in my opinion the one with the larger ID makes a huge difference when moving and shooting. I bought them both about 3 years ago, one for $42 the other for $37 from Amazon. The price has shot up since the Covid started, I think they are about $70 now. The problem is that you never know which one you'll get, but the nice thing about Amazon is that if you don't like it just send it back! I did have an issue with the first one and Bushnell had to replace it (the front lens came loose). The one they returned was the better one that is on the rifle now. Bushnell was great to talk to and their warranty department is great as well.
My issues only started after taking the whole thing apart and cleaning it and putting every piece back together per instructions and now I can’t even get the first round to load into battery. And if it does then I get all kinds of ftf fte and stovepipes. I’m really bummed because this thing was flawless until this point.
I don't know how far you did the takedown, but I suspect it might be in the bolt. Here is a link for the bolt takedown and putback. See if this helps.
ruclips.net/video/umLnXtojCU0/видео.html
@@CompShooter54 thank you sir
@@gemineyes6160 Let me know if that doesn't fix it, there are other disassembly vids out there.
@@CompShooter54 yea I just wanted to throw the rifle through the window. It won’t even load a round into battery. It not feed and then I get double feeds. It extracts once the round is in battery but it just doesn’t cycle perfectly like before I tore it down.
@@gemineyes6160 Did you take off the bolt face? Did the 2 pins and extractor go back in properly? How about the barrel tension? I'm just trying to think of what it could be. I know this gun like I know my name, and I'm at a loss. Did you take out the magwell insert? How about that long lever under the ejection port? There is a block that it attaches too that has 3 screws holding in the block. Sometimes those get loose and the lever gets out of alignment causing feeding issues.
Without a magazine in place, does the bolt cycle smoothly and will the trigger operate? Did you take the trigger group apart or just take the whole thing out?
Where did you get that stainless steal bolt?😎
Well, it's the factory bolt with the finish removed....by accident. I saw some videos where some shooters were cleaning their barrels with something called CRL (calcium, rust, lime remover). It is not for guns, but for general cleaning. So I thought I would use it on my bolt. Turns out it is also a bluing remover! So after screwing up some of the finish I dunked the whole thing in and took the rest off. The barrels they were cleaning were stainless. I wish they had mentioned that in the video!
@@CompShooter54 Oops!😳 Great video though!🇺🇸
Have you shot it so much the finish on the bolt wore off?
Actually no, I screwed up. I saw in a few videos that benchrest shooters use CRL (Calcium, Rust, and Lime remover) to clean their bores, so I diluted it 50/50 with water and put it in my ultrasonic cleaner, figuring it would do a good job getting all the caked on crud off. Well, when I checked on it 5 minutes later the finish was all gone! Maybe CRL works on stainless steel, but it attacks the bluing really fast. Oops.
Blueing technically is rust. Any of the rust remover will strip the bluing off.
my ejection problem also includes a failure to feed. is this the fix to that issue or were you experiencing something different?
Can you describe the failure to feed issue? Mine always fed well, but would stove pipe. Is the empty being ejected? Are you using hollow points or round nose. Are you using brand name mags? There are many reasons for FTF problems, I may be able to help with more info.
@@CompShooter54 spent cartridge does not eject before new round can load. I'm using 115 gr fmj PMC in Glock 17 mags
@@aos7194 The bolt is not coming back far enough to eject the spent shell and pick up the next round. Does the bolt stay open on the last round? Does it happen just with the first few shots in a full mag, or randomly anywhere in the mag? In any case, it sounds like the bolt is dragging, which is why I rounded off the corner like I show in the video.
I like the idea of this mod, so took my gun apart. The edge has been chamfered at the factory. It has small 45 degree cut off on that edge. My rifle is a late model # 911-988xxxxx I wonder if Ruger has noted the problem and changed the design slightly? I would have increase the length of the bevel, but don't know what tool I could get into that small place. maybe you could add a short "How-To" to the video?
All of the bolts come with this 45 degree chamfer, but it can be improved. You need to take the front of the bolt apart first, you cannot do it assembled. Here is a link for how to do that. Once apart, you can round off the corners of that area with a file, then polish it with some very fine emery paper, like 600 grit to start, then go finer. You will notice that the function will be much smoother when racking the bolt from a closed position.
ruclips.net/video/umLnXtojCU0/видео.html
@@CompShooter54 Perfect!! Thank you.
@@peelreg No problem, let me know how it works out.
What trigger is that?
Dan, it's a no-name trigger I got on Ebay a few years ago for about $20. I got it because it is aluminum instead of plastic, it offers no advantage as far as trigger pull goes, and they come in several colors. If you search for Ruger PC Carbine trigger you will find them. I'll do a quick look and if I can find it. If I can I will post the link here.
Dan, I got it here. He has other colors, this one is out of stock. Check his site for other products. It is not the standard 10/22 trigger, it is the one for the 10/22 BX trigger as he says. Good luck!
1022racerifle.com/pike-arms-red-billet-trigger-ruger-10-22-bx-trigger-housing-pc9/
I was really liking and considering buying the backpacker model. But, until Ruger fixes the issue from the factory, I'm not buying one. Maybe they have already since this video is 2 years old?
Some people recently said the new guns now have that area rounder off. There was always a beveled area there, but it was small and had sharp edges. So I don't know what people are seeing without me seeing pictures. It could be the same, or it could be rounded and smooth. What I can say, is that people that had problems rounded and polished this area and the problem went away.
I bought one, so can speak from experience. Never experienced this, but the video is interesting, and I'll likely make the mod.
TRIMMED CASES SLIGHT CAMPHOR
My pc charger geometry is exactly the other way. Maybe they fixed it?
When you say "the other way" do you mean that the area that I rounded off is already rounded from the factory? Can you be more specific?
@@CompShooter54back of the bolt drops down farther than the front
@@CompShooter54same here I just bout the newest version of the pc carbine and it has the piece you filed already lower
@@ryanplaysmc323 Nice, it only took them 6 years to figure it out!
BROTHER ITS BENDING THE EXTRACTOR PEOPLE TREAT IT LIKE AN AR JAM IT IN THUS BENDING THE EXTRACTOR SO SLIDE IT IN BUY ORIGINAL EXTRACTOR AND SLIDE MAGAZINE IN WITHOUT JAMMING IT IN ALSO LEAVE OUT 2 ROUNDS AS ITS TO TIGHT!!!!!!!JUST SAYING
First, I think you mean the ejector, not the extractor. You can't bend the extractor. If you live in a 10 round state, leaving out 2 is not an option. A tighter crimp helps if you reload, but not if you shoot factory. Some factory ammo has a straight crimp (no crimp), others have a heavy crimp. A stovepipe is caused by one of 2 things. A weak round that doesn't send the bolt back far enough with enough energy, or a worn hook on the extractor and the round slips off before the case hits the ejector. A bolt that drags on the rearward travel, which I describe here, is what the problem was with mine. If you have the patience to read all of the comments you will see that many shooters have fixed their problem by rounding off the bottom of the bolt. Not a single person fixed their stovepipe by changing the ejector.
@@CompShooter54 it's part of the extractor arm as per Ruger just trying to help as BENDING of this arm when charging or reloading of new mag the arm gets bent when mag is full and doesn't quite seat forcing the arm bends it thus poor ejection of spent casing problem that Ruger has addresses on web site good luck
@@MrbonziBonzi-th2zz Once again, it's the EJECTOR that can bend NOT the extractor. Nothing touches the EXTRACTOR when loading a magazine. I will check the Ruger site, thanks for the tip.
@@MrbonziBonzi-th2zz I just read everything I could find on the Ruger site and can't find where it is addressed. Can you tell me where I should look? Also, do you own one of these guns? If so, which model and what magazines are you using?
@@CompShooter54 I own 2pc charger and I use Glock mags
Wow you are one of the few shooters that actually has a brain. Too bad Ruger doesn't have a brain or the ability to troubleshoot problems.
I tell you Ruger is letting people down with this 9mm carbine rifle it's got a flaw in its design and they know it everyone is having problems with this rifle failure to eject sometimes most people call it stovepipe I probably will never buy anything Ruger makes ever again.
Agreed, but since I live in a state where the AR platform is banned I have no choice. I feel your frustrations with Ruger. I sent back an LC9s because the trigger pull was too light for a carry gun at 2.5 pounds. They agreed and said the factory spec was between 5 and 6.5 pounds, and to send it back for repair. I asked them to shoot for the upper limit of 6.5 pounds and they said they would note that. Well a few weeks after I get it back with a letter that they replaced the trigger spring and fired 21 rounds through it and it functioned properly. Well, guess what, the trigger is now 3.0, not even close to the factory spec. I feel as though sending it back again would be a waste of time, maybe I can fix it myself.
@@stinkylittlerascal Paul, I think it varies from gun to gun. I have spoken face to face with people that have had problems, and some that never have. I talked with a shooter at a match who told me he had 4,000 rounds through the gun without a single issue....when the match was over he had 2 that day. I know that it cured my problem, and I have gotten several comments here that it fixed others as well.
@@stinkylittlerascal Paul, there are probably 8 or 10 people that commented here that they HAD a problem, and have fixed it by rounding off that area of the bolt. Some have just replaced the extractor and it fixed the problem. The extractor is junk and should be replaced first. The claw on the stock one is really small, and if you take it out and hook it onto a case rim you'll see what I'm talking about. Not all brands of ammo have the same shape of rim, and the claw grabs some really well, and others not well at all. That's why you may may never have a problem, and sometimes you will if you change ammo. Just keep an eye on it, you may be one of those lucky guys that doesn't have the issue. The newest problem that cropped up with mine is that the barrel comes loose while shooting and rotates out of battery slightly. When this happens I will get a failure to fire. I have a fix for that and will be making a video right after Christmas. If you subscribe you'll see when it comes out. Hopefully I have discovered and fixed all of the issues with this gun.
I just tested mine today, which I got a week ago, so... I have an ejection problem as well, from 12 oem Glock mags just a few went without issues, others had 1 or 2 stovepipes, used different ammo 115, 124, 147, fmj, jhp... a bit disappointed, after searching and watching this video I've found that the bolt on mine pcc does catch a bit the edge of the case, and sometimes pretty hard. So I'm thinking if I should return it back to Ruger for fixing or to fix on my own
@@sergeybashmakov1790 Since it is new, you should probably send it back to Ruger first. If you do, please explain that you think the problem is the bolt catching on the cartridge based on this video. I don't know if you can attached the link of the video so that they can watch it for a clear understanding of the problem. When most people send the guns back they only change the extractor and it usually doesn't help. I don't think that they realize that it is the bolt not the extractor. Keep me posted as to what happens.
omg almost bought one new they were junk !!!
They do have their issues, that's for sure. Mine is all set now, but it cost me a lot of matches until I figured out this problem.
This pc should be lubed up or can fail to eject
Lubrication can make a difference. Can you please share how you lubricate the rifle, and if this was a cure for what you were experiencing? The more we know the better.
@@CompShooter54 oil the slide it gets sticky after 10 rounds if no oil is present creates drag on the slide slows down the movement of the slide which makes stove pipes, did it to me every clip a couple of times , after oiling no more jams runs perfect.
@@dmoney6610 That makes sense, however when shooting in a match where the stage is 35 or more rounds that is not practical, but I do add oil after 75-100 rounds. I can certainly feel the difference when racking the slide. If your slide is getting sticky after 10 rounds you are having other issues, or not oiling the correct areas with the correct type of oil. Just a thought.
@CompShooter54 shit sounds like u know better than all of us, do u shoot this pc in the matches ? Do u use a compensator or do u use the mcarbo extractor ? These are worth it?
@@dmoney6610 I don't know if this is sarcasm or real questions, but either way: Yes, I have been using this carbine in competition for 4 years, in USPSA and Falling Steel. I use a Wings Tactical compensator and Mcarbo extractor and bolt pins. And yes, I think I know more about this gun than anyone I have seen on RUclips yet. I have found every issue with this gun and corrected them to make it 100% reliable. I have fixed things that I have not even posted yet. Did you see my initial video on this gun? Have a look, it will answer your questions.
Great video . Thank you.
Thanks! I checked out your channel, very impressive.
@@CompShooter54 Thank you very much. I am glad you like it. I Will put an english subtitles on some of my videos, soon.