Hey buddy. I was a sniper in the Marines back in the day. Try taking three very slow deep breaths (to get O2 in your blood) and then instead of holding it in, blow out the last breath and hold, then shoot. Might be more stable than holding the breath in.
Nice job picking the Grosbeak out of the tree clutter! His coloring works really nicely on your "birdscape". For the VR issue, Nikon does a REALLY bad job explaining the modes, but "Normal" is what you'd expect. "Sport" is panning mode, where the camera will turn off horizontal stabilization. Normal is best for static work, as you've shown. If you pan in Normal, you can get a jerky pan, where the image "slides" and then stops, repeatedly. Sport is best for panning, and also is generally good enough for stills, cause people don't tend to shake side-to-side much. But for video.... yeah, it gets barfy! Thanks for the great tip on smoothing video with slo-mo, and it's good to see you posting rapid-fire again!
Not only Nikon. Pretty much every camera with IBIS I had gives that warping effect in the corners with very wide lenses. The 'waiving' building is a bit extreme, but I've seen that with Panasonic, Olympus and Sony.
The cause is blurry individual video frames, the stabilization algorithm craps the bed. For example, shooting 1/50 shutter speed video you get motion blur, or in lower light, etc. Shooting at the highest shutter speed possible fixes it usually.
Love my Z6II - Thanks Omar! That 300 PF looks amazing, I just got the 105 macro which is superb but wont lie...kinda wish I had slightly more reach sometimes. Great tips.
Thanks Omar, appreciate your videos! Just my 2 cents; I’ve had the experience that Sport mode actually works much better when panning with a long lens. I film aviation, and in that case I often prefer Sport mode. Normal mode results in a very jittery panning motion, while Sport seems to handle the motion better. However, in keeping the frame completely still, you’re right that Normal is more efficient. Keep up the great work, David
Great video, thanks, Omar! I just had my own mistake with stills Stabalization. Here is what I now know. F mount lenses WITHOUT VR and all Z lenses, VR mode is set in-camera. Fmounts with VR the mode is set on the lens. That makes sense, But, I have had my 600 F4 with sport VR stapled to my Z9 for the last 3 months. Therefore I have been in sport mode. Using my new Z800 PF this last weekend at a Marathon, I never noticed I was actually in NORMAL VR mode as I suppose this is the default for this camera. Most photos over 1/2500 were soft. The 1/2000 ones were fine. The lens has been awesome shooting birds in flight and on perch.
Omar I am really liking your videos. Especially all these Nikon ones. I am buying a Nikon z6ii therefore how I ended up on your channel. But I am loving all the other content too. Looking forward to seeing what else you post. Cheers
Just a note, if you are not doing camera movements, like panning from left to right, etc., and your shot is basically a still frame, you should be able to choose "camera lock" in your stabilization software when editing and that will reduce movement even more. Will crop a bit, but could help in the future. Also, I noticed that "warbaling" (don't know if that is the term) when shooting with electronic stabilization, you still find that even with that turned off? Cheers!
Great video as always Omar. Suggestion for future videos. If you mention a menu feature such as turning on Electronic Stabilization a super-quick run through using the Menu options would be super-helpful - like literally 3 seconds. Keep up the good work.
Omar (not related to this video) but hoping for your help. Have you heard any Nikon rumors about a new version of the Coolpix P1000 coming in 2023? I want the camera for shooting birds, but due to the age (released in 2018) I'm concerned I'll buy it and then they'll have an updated one released. Any thoughts? Thanks much! Love your videos.
So I have only used 1080 for vid. And not having much of a clue either. So switched up to 2160-60 for a try. I understand it would crop some but for me it goes to DX automatically. Probably ok but is that correct? Electronic VR is also grayed out as an option. Firmware is 1.4. All on all a good vid with good tips. Thanks
Hi Omar, as far as I know, Sport-Mode stabilizes in the Moment of taking the Picture and might then do a better job. Normal stabilizes what you see as you showed but might be a fraction less stabilized in comparison to Sport. But all only valid for stills.
Great video. Thanks. As the new owner of a Z6 ii, I am enthused but non-plussed. Spent 10 minutes going thru the menus and thru the manual. There is no such thing as "electronic stabilization". Quite literally, the words do not exist in the manual. Accept a plea from someone who is apparently stoopid and helpless: what is it? And how do I turn it on?
I was also a bit frustrated but found in the movie shooting menu something called Electronic VR a bit below focus mode. But for me with a z6ii and the 300pf on. This is greyed out. Can’t seem to make it active.
The EVR (or EIS, call it as you will) is generally (at least in this class of cameras) useful if the cameraman does NOT walk or do fast movements, otherwise it causes those cellphone-ish nasty distortions at the corners. And it is the same not only in all cameras (there are betters and worse, of course) but also in stabilizing softwares (you have to modify them a LOT). and the issue is not photographical. It is simply because all EVRs are based on "frame stacking algorithms", and the processor has to stack and align the serial frames at any cost. So if you have moved too much (especially on various axis which makes it more complicated for the processor) you will definitely have jelly stretched edges (caused by forced aligning of the frames). *The little common crop is exactly derived from this procedure.
It’s not the cameraman movement that’s the problem, it’s the individual blurry video frames that the algo can’t align properly. A much higher shutter speed usually helps or even eliminates the problem, because you want each video frame to be sharp. Ironically this is also why modern high frame rate, high shutter speed footage looks so bad (un-cinematic).
LOVE THE OPENING AND CLOSING SEQUENCES! Okay, love your channel so I'm going to subscribe. Completely agree with you. I always tell people I'd much rather make a mistake, than get it right the first time - because you learn (hopefully) from your mistakes - working them out in your head, as opposed to getting things correct. I would have never guess that VR "Normal" would be better than "Sport" - reverse in action photography. Sounds like the 100-400mm native Z lens is in your future! :-)
Sports mode is for someone holding the camera he is moving + subject moving as well NORMAL mode is for you not moving but the subject is moving. Thank you
Hey Omar and anyone who is reading this.... Is there a shutter speed where the image stabilazation stops working? I have the nikon z6 ii and z 50mm 1.8 and I was taking pictures at an event at 200/1 f1.8 iso1600 and so many of them are slightly blurry. Or is it an issue with the continuous focus ?
It’s ridiculous that it’s so difficult to get stabilization out of the Z8… Which is too bad because the image quality is gorgeous… I tested the camera and nobody told me about the stabilization and so without it turned on at all the footage is completely unusable.
i made a mistake buying nikon zf for video, its IBIS is trash, unnecessary micro jitters in videos. I shot handheld much stable shots with my canon 200d and sigma 18-35 before.
Listen Bud, Jared Polin has made it very clear that Nikon has horrendous Auto Focusing! According to Jared Polin Nikon can’t auto focus on an elephant or a blue whale 🐳 that’s how bad it is. And Jared Polin never takes any money from Camera companies and he never reads comments!
Oh, he read mine when I confronted him on his Z system misinformation and threatened to ban me lol. I ended up getting a Z6ii despite all the "money train" CaSony-fanboy Nikon hate.
@@cohoonatube I will admit, the Z camera sucks on bright background auto focusing, especially w third party lenses. However 90% of the time the AF works very good and I can't complain. I don't shoot action or sports so keeping in the Nikon brand was an easy choice, or else I would've went Canon.
@@coltoncyr2283 I really enjoy aspects of every platform, we are so spoiled. I remember well running the Dark Room and loading my own film cannisters back in my college days :D. I also remember the first dslr that came out and rendered all the skills pointless... I was so depressed I left photography for a year lol. Nikon's FW updates are killing it... but they need 3rd party lenses.
I don't even own a Nikon but feel this video helped me... and not just because I added "be a deer..." pun to my dad joke arsenal. I should take a second look at my stabilization settings. I just turned things to "on" with out checking to see if there were any nuances.
Hey buddy. I was a sniper in the Marines back in the day. Try taking three very slow deep breaths (to get O2 in your blood) and then instead of holding it in, blow out the last breath and hold, then shoot. Might be more stable than holding the breath in.
exactly that!
wow nice advice, gracias
Don't blow all out, only 2/3 ....
I learned to shoot in the Boy Scouts, they always taught us exhale 1/2 and hold.
tq for the tip
Sport is for when you are panning, among other applications. If you are still, use the normal VR, as you say.
Incredible colour and clarity. 👍🍻
Nice job picking the Grosbeak out of the tree clutter! His coloring works really nicely on your "birdscape".
For the VR issue, Nikon does a REALLY bad job explaining the modes, but "Normal" is what you'd expect. "Sport" is panning mode, where the camera will turn off horizontal stabilization.
Normal is best for static work, as you've shown. If you pan in Normal, you can get a jerky pan, where the image "slides" and then stops, repeatedly.
Sport is best for panning, and also is generally good enough for stills, cause people don't tend to shake side-to-side much. But for video.... yeah, it gets barfy!
Thanks for the great tip on smoothing video with slo-mo, and it's good to see you posting rapid-fire again!
Not only Nikon. Pretty much every camera with IBIS I had gives that warping effect in the corners with very wide lenses. The 'waiving' building is a bit extreme, but I've seen that with Panasonic, Olympus and Sony.
The cause is blurry individual video frames, the stabilization algorithm craps the bed. For example, shooting 1/50 shutter speed video you get motion blur, or in lower light, etc. Shooting at the highest shutter speed possible fixes it usually.
Love my Z6II - Thanks Omar! That 300 PF looks amazing, I just got the 105 macro which is superb but wont lie...kinda wish I had slightly more reach sometimes. Great tips.
Thanks Omar, appreciate your videos! Just my 2 cents; I’ve had the experience that Sport mode actually works much better when panning with a long lens. I film aviation, and in that case I often prefer Sport mode. Normal mode results in a very jittery panning motion, while Sport seems to handle the motion better. However, in keeping the frame completely still, you’re right that Normal is more efficient. Keep up the great work, David
Very helpful, thanks! I've just been using Sport for everything blindly because I assumed it was better lol
How about trying a monopod? I find this really helps.
Great video, thanks, Omar! I just had my own mistake with stills Stabalization. Here is what I now know. F mount lenses WITHOUT VR and all Z lenses, VR mode is set in-camera. Fmounts with VR the mode is set on the lens. That makes sense, But, I have had my 600 F4 with sport VR stapled to my Z9 for the last 3 months. Therefore I have been in sport mode. Using my new Z800 PF this last weekend at a Marathon, I never noticed I was actually in NORMAL VR mode as I suppose this is the default for this camera. Most photos over 1/2500 were soft. The 1/2000 ones were fine. The lens has been awesome shooting birds in flight and on perch.
With the F mount with VR, and shooting on a tripod, do we have to switch off the camera's electronic stabilization?
Very good tips. Thanks Omar ❤
Omar you are a true Rock Start
Omar I am really liking your videos. Especially all these Nikon ones. I am buying a Nikon z6ii therefore how I ended up on your channel. But I am loving all the other content too. Looking forward to seeing what else you post. Cheers
Just a note, if you are not doing camera movements, like panning from left to right, etc., and your shot is basically a still frame, you should be able to choose "camera lock" in your stabilization software when editing and that will reduce movement even more. Will crop a bit, but could help in the future.
Also, I noticed that "warbaling" (don't know if that is the term) when shooting with electronic stabilization, you still find that even with that turned off? Cheers!
Great video as always Omar. Suggestion for future videos. If you mention a menu feature such as turning on Electronic Stabilization a super-quick run through using the Menu options would be super-helpful - like literally 3 seconds. Keep up the good work.
Omar! How about a wrist watch check at the start of each video? I like your Steinharts and Seikos… what are you wearing in this one?
wowww,,,,where did you get that trippy music from ,,,its great ????
That intro is crazy good. Great video. Lot of great info here.
Loved that 300mm but traded in for the 500PF. Wish I had both now.
Great vid - thanks for the info. Does in camera stabilization only work for video or is there a stills mode?
Hi Omar , good sharing … normal VR application in this way was completely new to me … thanks for the sharing …
Nice footages. Question: Do we have to switch off electronic stabilization when the camera is mounted on a tripod?
Well done Omar 👍
Thanks!
Great vid, thanks for your advices
Beautiful images, and thanks for the tips! :)
A partial exhalation may benefit some people. A full breath gets chest tight, heartbeats transfer to arms … .
I am using the FTZ ll adapter. Does that have the same effect as using a teleconverter?
And besides, it’s always a good idea to hold your breath while photographing animal butts.
@@fibonacho or the lemon snow.
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Omar (not related to this video) but hoping for your help. Have you heard any Nikon rumors about a new version of the Coolpix P1000 coming in 2023? I want the camera for shooting birds, but due to the age (released in 2018) I'm concerned I'll buy it and then they'll have an updated one released. Any thoughts? Thanks much! Love your videos.
So I have only used 1080 for vid. And not having much of a clue either. So switched up to 2160-60 for a try. I understand it would crop some but for me it goes to DX automatically. Probably ok but is that correct? Electronic VR is also grayed out as an option. Firmware is 1.4. All on all a good vid with good tips. Thanks
Hi Omar, as far as I know, Sport-Mode stabilizes in the Moment of taking the Picture and might then do a better job. Normal stabilizes what you see as you showed but might be a fraction less stabilized in comparison to Sport. But all only valid for stills.
very impressive thanks for the tips!
Hahaha Yay! Deer puppet! Dope Video as always.
Love your content
Use some kind of support - a tree, a fence-post, military, anything that would help you supposrt the lens-camera combo - or get a Pentax.
thanks for the video
Great video. Thanks. As the new owner of a Z6 ii, I am enthused but non-plussed. Spent 10 minutes going thru the menus and thru the manual. There is no such thing as "electronic stabilization". Quite literally, the words do not exist in the manual. Accept a plea from someone who is apparently stoopid and helpless: what is it? And how do I turn it on?
I was also a bit frustrated but found in the movie shooting menu something called Electronic VR a bit below focus mode. But for me with a z6ii and the 300pf on. This is greyed out. Can’t seem to make it active.
I didn't realize IBIS and lens VC could be activated separately - or is this just a video option? (only for Z's other than the Z6?)
The EVR (or EIS, call it as you will) is generally (at least in this class of cameras) useful if the cameraman does NOT walk or do fast movements, otherwise it causes those cellphone-ish nasty distortions at the corners. And it is the same not only in all cameras (there are betters and worse, of course) but also in stabilizing softwares (you have to modify them a LOT). and the issue is not photographical. It is simply because all EVRs are based on "frame stacking algorithms", and the processor has to stack and align the serial frames at any cost. So if you have moved too much (especially on various axis which makes it more complicated for the processor) you will definitely have jelly stretched edges (caused by forced aligning of the frames).
*The little common crop is exactly derived from this procedure.
It’s not the cameraman movement that’s the problem, it’s the individual blurry video frames that the algo can’t align properly. A much higher shutter speed usually helps or even eliminates the problem, because you want each video frame to be sharp. Ironically this is also why modern high frame rate, high shutter speed footage looks so bad (un-cinematic).
LOVE THE OPENING AND CLOSING SEQUENCES! Okay, love your channel so I'm going to subscribe. Completely agree with you. I always tell people I'd much rather make a mistake, than get it right the first time - because you learn (hopefully) from your mistakes - working them out in your head, as opposed to getting things correct. I would have never guess that VR "Normal" would be better than "Sport" - reverse in action photography. Sounds like the 100-400mm native Z lens is in your future! :-)
slowing down 4k to 60 is brilliant
4K 60 only crop (not full sensor), correct ?
No doubt, i think in this time Nikon have the best colors without mish-mashing a lot in post.
Sports mode is for someone holding the camera he is moving + subject moving as well NORMAL mode is for you not moving but the subject is moving. Thank you
quite a voice over you did on that fine looking animal... ;)
Hey Omar and anyone who is reading this.... Is there a shutter speed where the image stabilazation stops working? I have the nikon z6 ii and z 50mm 1.8 and I was taking pictures at an event at 200/1 f1.8 iso1600 and so many of them are slightly blurry. Or is it an issue with the continuous focus ?
It’s ridiculous that it’s so difficult to get stabilization out of the Z8… Which is too bad because the image quality is gorgeous… I tested the camera and nobody told me about the stabilization and so without it turned on at all the footage is completely unusable.
Where do you get your music from?
Check the description. Soundstripe. 😃
@@ogonzilla thanks! 😛
All good tips but you forgot the most important one: if you're planning on shooting video, using a tripod makes life SO much simpler! 😀😊
A tripod doesn’t work in many situations, like in urban areas, and then it’s another thing to carry.
so the wooble was never fixed?
i made a mistake buying nikon zf for video, its IBIS is trash, unnecessary micro jitters in videos. I shot handheld much stable shots with my canon 200d and sigma 18-35 before.
👍🏾🙏🏾
Get a monopod!
ok nice, but we like you with Fuji :)
Listen Bud, Jared Polin has made it very clear that Nikon has horrendous Auto Focusing! According to Jared Polin Nikon can’t auto focus on an elephant or a blue whale 🐳 that’s how bad it is. And Jared Polin never takes any money from Camera companies and he never reads comments!
Oh, he read mine when I confronted him on his Z system misinformation and threatened to ban me lol. I ended up getting a Z6ii despite all the "money train" CaSony-fanboy Nikon hate.
Jared Polin know a shit about photography
@@cohoonatube I will admit, the Z camera sucks on bright background auto focusing, especially w third party lenses. However 90% of the time the AF works very good and I can't complain.
I don't shoot action or sports so keeping in the Nikon brand was an easy choice, or else I would've went Canon.
@@coltoncyr2283 I really enjoy aspects of every platform, we are so spoiled. I remember well running the Dark Room and loading my own film cannisters back in my college days :D. I also remember the first dslr that came out and rendered all the skills pointless... I was so depressed I left photography for a year lol. Nikon's FW updates are killing it... but they need 3rd party lenses.
I don't even own a Nikon but feel this video helped me... and not just because I added "be a deer..." pun to my dad joke arsenal. I should take a second look at my stabilization settings. I just turned things to "on" with out checking to see if there were any nuances.