I use highlight weighted metering all the time. It’s perfect for stage performances where subjects move in and out of the super bright lights unpredictably.
Some good explanations and advice on a complicated topic. I like the idea of taking the camera’s advice with its metering and then take over and manually adjust to your liking or how you envisage the scene. Surely that’s the human creatively we really want. I have taken some shots of the Fall in Kananaskis in Alberta and I have been questioning the results. Time for me to take over and stop being lazy. Nice work, thank you.
If you are a landscape photographer go with average trust me. I'm a professional landscape photographer and for a lot of scenes definitely average is the best way to go. Not sure on the other ones as I don't do a lot of other types of photography but thank you for the video because it does shed some light on it as well, but yeah, I switched to and it definitely helps with uneven light
I always shoot in manual, so the end of your video was particularly interesting to me, because it forced me to realize that most people are not exposing their images manually. Looking at manual exposure as a short cut to optimal metering of a scene is an excellent bit of reverse psychology. I'm gonna try to use that in my lesson plan. Thanks!
Great explanation! It is one of the basic technicalities that a lot of new and even experienced photographers miss. However, it is best to have a caveat at the beginning of the video that the metering modes are normally used in full-auto or semi-auto shooting modes. If one is in full manual with all his exposure settings, this won’t really matter since he/she can easily see that in the viewfinder/screen of a mirrorless camera. The only time this would be handy is if that person is checking on his exposure meter/histogram in-camera to nail a shot in manual.
Mate, where have you been? I'm a photographer-ish, and have seen tens if videos about photography tricks. However, I believe that you are among my favourite channels and you are brilliant, well done!👍🙏
Simple: if i shoot street i prefer matrix metering/ highlight weighted. If i shoot portrait and landscape i prefer center weighted, if i shoot night shoot i definitly use spot
For the people leaving comments, going into incredible detail about this subject and mentioning incident light etc and criticising the advice in this video, why on earth are you watching a channel called 'photography explained' if you already know it all?! This content is is not for you. It's for beginners and improvers. With a RUclips full of advanced photography videos, you can show off your knowledge and debate nuances on them.
Maybe they follow this photographer for his other work, or the algorithm just recommended the video. What's the harm in pointing out a few inaccuracies? Beginners shouldn't be led astray. And if someone wants to provide more detailed explanations in the comments, there's nothing wrong with that. Comments are optional to read, and if the "intended audience" chooses to engage in reading the chat to learn more and/or discuss ; they should be free to do so. That's what the comment section is for.
I use zebras set to 95%, see zebras drop exposure until they are gone, and then expose one stop up to see zebras at 95%. Perfect exposure 98% of the time for out doors and indoors.
GREAT INFO! I find myself using center weighted or spot metering, depending on the contrast in the scene,,,thanks for taking us back to metering basics!
Matrix metering considers focus spot also ... your final tip is funny :D ... let me suggest something else - on constantly lit scenes like when you're outside you simply look in the beginning what the exposure for shadows and highlights should be and just follow that .. In case that you cannot work in slow pace you just must know you camera and know how many stops you can go both ways and you can check the exposure with pointing your camera (with focus point in the middle and matrix metering) into highlights and shadow to see where it will go, then recompose and adjust your exposure based on what you need ...
You should always edit your photos. If you don't you aren't getting everything out of your photos. The camera doesn't see what the eyes sees. I used to hate editing pictures until I leaned how to do it and I am still learning. It can take a good image to a great image.
oh boy do i have news for you. jokes aside, learn to edit your photos. If you ever plan on doing paid photography, this is the only way you can keep up with those that can edit their pictures
Spotmetering off the white bird will give you grey plumage, not white. That's how reflected light metering works. To get white you'll need to "overexpose" by a couple of stops.
I'll just add this here. I've been trying to figure out how it works and it only works on full auto, semi auto, and auto iso settings. (Not working in full manual) Because metering is like the computer that sets the brightness of the scene.
It was more like 60 years ago. In the 1970s integrated metering TTL was the norm on SLRs. Actually yuo typically pointed the light meter to the light. Center weighed does not expose backlit images correctly. In the 1970s when it was the only thing cameras had buttons to increase exposure on backlit images. Evaluative measuring was created to fix problems of the center weighted..
Simple and straightforward. I find your content very good and i would like to see more. Keep up the good work! You are doing a great job. Regards, your new subscriber
If you've lots of shadow and so high contrast in your image then spot meter for the area that you want to keep the details in. i.e. for a shot of someone walking through a beam of light, I'd spot meter on the part of the person you want to be correctly exposed. All easier said than done if you're being reactive to your surroundings when shooting street.
It won't override other settings. It's still useful to have the correct metering in manual mode as your camera will still give you guidance on exposure from the charts etc that you can have on the viewfinder.
all is true prior to Mirrorless and Face and Eye detect AF, Matrix with Face/Eye AF always give priority to face metering...center/partial/spot is use to take few % of center area for metering in Canon but now in same Canon Mirrorless it is always linked to Focus Point (which was not the case in the older models except 1Dx series)
That is only if you choose to use eye/face detect AF. If you leave that off, then Matrix works as Matrix always did. Case in point : I don't typically use eye/face detect on either my Fuji or Nikon camera unless i'm doing a portrait shoot. For general stuff (urban/landscape) i switch it off; some patterns can confuse the AF in thinking there's a face, most notably canal houses along Amsterdam canals :)
Just tried these settings with my A9III Sony and the results weren't radically different. I can see why most people/photographers don't touch this from the base/default settings. Nice to hear but I doubt I will employ it too often.
It makes a big difference in extreme conditions. Another commenter mentioned that they shoot stage work where there is a super strong spot light. If they didn't use the correct metering and the camera metered the entire frame for example, they'd have images that are a big grey mess with nothing important visible.
@@Photography-Explained it was a great explanation. I have a better understanding of when and how to use it. Still hard to get good shots in harsh light 😁. Appreciate you taking the time to make the video. All love.
Hi, at 4:32 you mention that the camera is only going to consider the brightness of the area underneath your "selected focus point". I'm a beginner and I'm not sure I understand. Can you set the spot metering and move the circle around to where you would like? On my camera if I set the metering to "Spot metering", it creates a small circle and it only stays in the middle, I can not move it around, and regardless of what I focus on, it considers the brightness of the middle area where the small circle is
Double check that your camera is actually metering from the circle and not where you move the focus point to (even if the circle doesn't move). Otherwise, put the circle where you want to spot meter, half press the shutter to meter, move your camera to reframe the shot and then take the image. Hope that helps.
@@Photography-Explained Yes, the camera is metering from the circle. I put my focus point on an object in the corner, and the meter is considering the brightness from the circle in the middle. I tried to put the circle on the object, half press the shutter, and after moving the camera to reframe the shot, the meter takes the brightness from the middle again, and not from the subject 😄
Mmm looks like reading the manual or looking for a video on metering for your specific camera might be the next step. The only other thing to try is back button focusing. I switched to that and it was a little bit of a pain to get used to but on my Sony it absolutely works for what you're describing.
@@Photography-Explained Yes, you are right, I forgot about the manual to be honest 😄 I have a Canon R50, and with the manual I found out that the Star "*" button on my camera is the AE lock, and that locks the spot meter on the object, and afterwards I can move the camera to reframe the shot. Thank you for the replies! 😊
@@Photography-ExplainedApologies, I moved on before the 6mins mark. By the way, one helpful feature of Olympus’ live histogram is that the area under the focus point shows green, on the white graph.
I am not sure if you are aware that light meters are very much still alive, and have much more capability than you gave credit to in this video. Yes, you can use the metering system in the camera, and if you do not mind chimping back and forth with the shot you have just taken, then trying trial and error to get the exposure right, go right ahead. The camera is using reflective metering, and as such, can be easily fooled. The advantage of the light meter is that you can use incident metering to attain the proper exposures, and several light meters, such as the Seknonic 858, have the capability of spot metering. The unit provides a 1% spot meter function that is very accurate. You can also meter an entire area and average multiple spot readings on your own to determine a better exposure for your shot.
@@Photography-Explained For any bird in flight which is not filling at least half the frame, your camera will be clueless as to what you are supposed to be exposing for. That`s when a bit of experience comes in to read the scenario and adjust on the fly.
FF when you shoot wildlife, from behind the steering wheel in, say, the Kgalagadi desert, becomes unwieldy. Have you seen a Canon 1200mm lens? It's a bazooka, and in your way all day. M43 is just so much easier to manage and a plethora of internationally recognised PRO wildlife shooters don't even own FF. Come to Chobe, Kwai, Mabuasehube, Garaghab and see for yourself. Those huge lenses and heavy FF cameras, bulky as they are, are simply too hard to handle. Also, many of us are 50+ or even 80+, so FF is a burden. Low light? Just use longer exposure, bigger aperture. Oly's insane focus and image stabilization betters any FF system by far. M43 / MFT is my call.
I think you're right. There are plenty of people who have commented on my recent videos about this who never actually leave the house with their gear :).
What a halfassed explanation. 20 years ago we were using light meters? We did but cameras already had excellent meters, I guess he’s never heard of the F4 for example
I'm sorry you didn't enjoy the video. My channel is for beginners. If you've been shooting for a long time it's probably not for you. You're right. I've never heard of the F4. I started shooting 11 months ago and so it was before my time.
A lightmeter is still an absolute must have in 2024 as it measures incident light (that cameras can’t do), not reflective light. Total nonsense… especially if you want to be serious about photography
@@Photography-Explained If you were taking a shot of someone using a light meter, simply aim it at the direction of light source no on the face, so long as the light is pretty consistent then job done.
@@Photography-Explained first of all, my dad Minolta from the 1970’s has bracket exposure and tells you the scenes overall exposure, it’s way more accurate than todays digital cameras. Second a light meter back then was cheep, sekonic made one starting at a few dollars and topping off at like $60 for top of the line, they were very small not much bigger than a key fob in your pocket. How do you call yourself photography explained if you didn’t know this!? Get straight to the point in you dialogue isn’t just too much kerflufflel to listen too
Who needs any lighmeter when You can see final image before You take it. I'm talking about mirrorles. Exposure is creative decission and no lighmeter can create good artistic choice.
only matter when shooting in auto mode. Manual shooting generally mean you control everything regardless of the metering numbers. How else individual photo can be artistic or crabby? Learn the art and ditch the auto everything that take generic photos.
📷 Want to start taking photos that leave your friends and family speechless? Download our FREE cheat sheets: 👉 photographyexplained.com/cheatsheets/
Great video, makes it all a lot easier to remember, I tend to shoot a lot in Spot but will start using matrix more
I use highlight weighted metering all the time. It’s perfect for stage performances where subjects move in and out of the super bright lights unpredictably.
Nice! I've made a note to use that as an example for the next time I talk about highlight weighted metering.
Some good explanations and advice on a complicated topic. I like the idea of taking the camera’s advice with its metering and then take over and manually adjust to your liking or how you envisage the scene. Surely that’s the human creatively we really want. I have taken some shots of the Fall in Kananaskis in Alberta and I have been questioning the results. Time for me to take over and stop being lazy. Nice work, thank you.
Thanks..BEST explanation I've ever seen...not just for the sake of content but for actual explaination/teaching
Thanks for the feedback :). Comments like that really keep me motivated to create more content.
This is the best tutorial I have ever seen! Very practical.
If you are a landscape photographer go with average trust me. I'm a professional landscape photographer and for a lot of scenes definitely average is the best way to go. Not sure on the other ones as I don't do a lot of other types of photography but thank you for the video because it does shed some light on it as well, but yeah, I switched to and it definitely helps with uneven light
Are you the Nev shooting with GFX on X? You have some beautiful work. Congrats!
Super clear and simple explanation of something that is not !
A very informative video for beginners 🙏🏿
I always shoot in manual, so the end of your video was particularly interesting to me, because it forced me to realize that most people are not exposing their images manually. Looking at manual exposure as a short cut to optimal metering of a scene is an excellent bit of reverse psychology. I'm gonna try to use that in my lesson plan. Thanks!
Awesome! I'm really glad you got something from the video.
Great explanation! It is one of the basic technicalities that a lot of new and even experienced photographers miss. However, it is best to have a caveat at the beginning of the video that the metering modes are normally used in full-auto or semi-auto shooting modes. If one is in full manual with all his exposure settings, this won’t really matter since he/she can easily see that in the viewfinder/screen of a mirrorless camera. The only time this would be handy is if that person is checking on his exposure meter/histogram in-camera to nail a shot in manual.
Yeah that is fair enough.
Spot metering and ae lock. Simple and efficient.
Mate, where have you been? I'm a photographer-ish, and have seen tens if videos about photography tricks. However, I believe that you are among my favourite channels and you are brilliant, well done!👍🙏
Best explanation I've heard, with excellent examples.
Simple: if i shoot street i prefer matrix metering/ highlight weighted. If i shoot portrait and landscape i prefer center weighted, if i shoot night shoot i definitly use spot
For the people leaving comments, going into incredible detail about this subject and mentioning incident light etc and criticising the advice in this video, why on earth are you watching a channel called 'photography explained' if you already know it all?! This content is is not for you. It's for beginners and improvers. With a RUclips full of advanced photography videos, you can show off your knowledge and debate nuances on them.
Maybe they follow this photographer for his other work, or the algorithm just recommended the video. What's the harm in pointing out a few inaccuracies? Beginners shouldn't be led astray. And if someone wants to provide more detailed explanations in the comments, there's nothing wrong with that. Comments are optional to read, and if the "intended audience" chooses to engage in reading the chat to learn more and/or discuss ; they should be free to do so. That's what the comment section is for.
What better way there could be to explain the metering modes, especially for beginner's and amateurs. Keep up the good work.
Holy cow. Cheers for the kind words!
I use zebras set to 95%, see zebras drop exposure until they are gone, and then expose one stop up to see zebras at 95%. Perfect exposure 98% of the time for out doors and indoors.
Great explanation, well done...
I use the manual mode which you covered towards the end. Works good for planned shots. 🙂
Awesome to hear that I'm on the right tracks. Thanks for the comment.
GREAT INFO! I find myself using center weighted or spot metering, depending on the contrast in the scene,,,thanks for taking us back to metering basics!
Thanks for the comment Hurley! Glad you enjoyed the video.
Whats are the best metering mode in camera 750 in outdoor bro?
Matrix metering considers focus spot also ... your final tip is funny :D ... let me suggest something else - on constantly lit scenes like when you're outside you simply look in the beginning what the exposure for shadows and highlights should be and just follow that .. In case that you cannot work in slow pace you just must know you camera and know how many stops you can go both ways and you can check the exposure with pointing your camera (with focus point in the middle and matrix metering) into highlights and shadow to see where it will go, then recompose and adjust your exposure based on what you need ...
That makes total sense. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for this to the point, simple explanation, and lively metering video. You earned a sub.
You're welcome Robert. I'm really glad that you enjoyed the video mate.
Thank you! I just use spot metering, trying to find the best exposure around the frame
What kinda photography are you using the spot metering for?
Greatest explanation that I have seen on metering modes!! Thanks so much!
You’re welcome! I’m really glad you found the video useful.
Thank you so much for this! Best explained metering video ever!!!!!
Thanks mate! Comments like that really keep me motivated to create more content.
best explanation so far about photography metering. thanks
Thanks mate! I really appreciate the comment.
One of the best tutorials/explanations i’ve seen i while.
Nice voice to listen to lol ❤
Cheers Graham! Kind words like that keep me motivated. Currently working on the next video when I could be in the pub.
I am a new photographer and I thought I would have to edit my photos the whole time. Thank you very much
I didn't edit a photo for months. Getting it right in camera is great practice for new photographers.
You're welcome!
You should always edit your photos. If you don't you aren't getting everything out of your photos. The camera doesn't see what the eyes sees. I used to hate editing pictures until I leaned how to do it and I am still learning. It can take a good image to a great image.
oh boy do i have news for you. jokes aside, learn to edit your photos. If you ever plan on doing paid photography, this is the only way you can keep up with those that can edit their pictures
Best simplest Metering break down, thank you so much ♥
Glad it was helpful!
Spotmetering off the white bird will give you grey plumage, not white. That's how reflected light metering works. To get white you'll need to "overexpose" by a couple of stops.
I was needing this.. thank you. Just gonna leave a great tip I learned this week. Those grey lens back covers from Sony.. are a 18% grey "card"!
Ah! That's genius. I've a bunch of them lay about the place.
Or 18% ..
@@arnolfini1434 yes!! 😁thank you! corrected
I'll just add this here.
I've been trying to figure out how it works and it only works on full auto, semi auto, and auto iso settings. (Not working in full manual)
Because metering is like the computer that sets the brightness of the scene.
Well done. Thanks.
But those metering doesnt work in full manual mode right?
cheers for this
Thank you, I've been using a camera for 2 years and I never knew exactly what metering was
No worries! I'm glad the video helped :).
05:30 if your camera tries to expose those bright patches in the forest…the dark patches wont be “blown out”, they will be crushed and darker.
It was more like 60 years ago. In the 1970s integrated metering TTL was the norm on SLRs. Actually yuo typically pointed the light meter to the light.
Center weighed does not expose backlit images correctly. In the 1970s when it was the only thing cameras had buttons to increase exposure on backlit images. Evaluative measuring was created to fix problems of the center weighted..
Nice one, I appreciate the insights. It was before my time but it's good to learn so I can make my videos more accurate.
Simple and straightforward. I find your content very good and i would like to see more. Keep up the good work! You are doing a great job. Regards, your new subscriber
Amazing! Thanks for the feedback it really keeps me motivated seeing messages like that.
Great content, subbed. Good luck with the channel.
Thanks mate! Looking forward to getting stuck in and putting out more content.
Im streetphotographer.... In golden hour and in low light best metering is also spot metering? And thx for the amazing video
If you've lots of shadow and so high contrast in your image then spot meter for the area that you want to keep the details in.
i.e. for a shot of someone walking through a beam of light, I'd spot meter on the part of the person you want to be correctly exposed.
All easier said than done if you're being reactive to your surroundings when shooting street.
@@Photography-Explained rly ty for ur feedback
Thank u !
Does this override your settings when shooting in manual mode?
It won't override other settings.
It's still useful to have the correct metering in manual mode as your camera will still give you guidance on exposure from the charts etc that you can have on the viewfinder.
where is the spot, center weighted metering on a dslr ovf?
what if im mostly focus n recompose?
00:15 if that is mediocre, what are my photos???💀💀💀
You are far too kind haha :)
What do you recommend for outdoor sports?
If everything is well lit and reasonably even then it doesn't really matter :).
Great explanation, thank you! New subscriber 🙌
Thanks for the sub!
good explanation, but if we use mannul mode, none of this matters...right?
The camera will still show the exposure meter and you and then adjust your manual settings based upon that.
Best explanation by far 😊
Thanks Maria! I really appreciate the kind words.
Amazing tips, great efforts
Thanks mate. Really appreciate the kind words.
For a night time concert, do you reckon that spot metering is the way to go?
If there’s lots of dark and then extreme light (spot/stage lights) then yes that makes sense.
Thank you.
Great info.
Glad it was helpful!
thanks for the video :)
You're welcome!
all is true prior to Mirrorless and Face and Eye detect AF, Matrix with Face/Eye AF always give priority to face metering...center/partial/spot is use to take few % of center area for metering in Canon but now in same Canon Mirrorless it is always linked to Focus Point (which was not the case in the older models except 1Dx series)
Didn't know that. Thanks for sharing.
That is only if you choose to use eye/face detect AF. If you leave that off, then Matrix works as Matrix always did. Case in point : I don't typically use eye/face detect on either my Fuji or Nikon camera unless i'm doing a portrait shoot. For general stuff (urban/landscape) i switch it off; some patterns can confuse the AF in thinking there's a face, most notably canal houses along Amsterdam canals :)
Just tried these settings with my A9III Sony and the results weren't radically different. I can see why most people/photographers don't touch this from the base/default settings. Nice to hear but I doubt I will employ it too often.
It makes a big difference in extreme conditions. Another commenter mentioned that they shoot stage work where there is a super strong spot light. If they didn't use the correct metering and the camera metered the entire frame for example, they'd have images that are a big grey mess with nothing important visible.
@@Photography-Explained it was a great explanation. I have a better understanding of when and how to use it. Still hard to get good shots in harsh light 😁. Appreciate you taking the time to make the video. All love.
Center weighted metering with back buttòn exposure and focus lock works for me
Yep, that's what I use whenever I'm not shooting a landscape.
For landscape and night i prefer spot, for portrait i prefer center weight. For street i prefer highlight weighted multi matrix metering
Same here.
Excellent Video!
Thank you very much!
This is amazing thank you
Hey Ben. Super excited that you enjoyed the video mate!
Hi, at 4:32 you mention that the camera is only going to consider the brightness of the area underneath your "selected focus point". I'm a beginner and I'm not sure I understand.
Can you set the spot metering and move the circle around to where you would like? On my camera if I set the metering to "Spot metering", it creates a small circle and it only stays in the middle, I can not move it around, and regardless of what I focus on, it considers the brightness of the middle area where the small circle is
Double check that your camera is actually metering from the circle and not where you move the focus point to (even if the circle doesn't move).
Otherwise, put the circle where you want to spot meter, half press the shutter to meter, move your camera to reframe the shot and then take the image.
Hope that helps.
@@Photography-Explained
Yes, the camera is metering from the circle. I put my focus point on an object in the corner, and the meter is considering the brightness from the circle in the middle.
I tried to put the circle on the object, half press the shutter, and after moving the camera to reframe the shot, the meter takes the brightness from the middle again, and not from the subject 😄
Mmm looks like reading the manual or looking for a video on metering for your specific camera might be the next step.
The only other thing to try is back button focusing. I switched to that and it was a little bit of a pain to get used to but on my Sony it absolutely works for what you're describing.
@@Photography-Explained
Yes, you are right, I forgot about the manual to be honest 😄
I have a Canon R50, and with the manual I found out that the Star "*" button on my camera is the AE lock, and that locks the spot meter on the object, and afterwards I can move the camera to reframe the shot.
Thank you for the replies! 😊
No worries. Glad you got it sorted!
Seems you are using A7R5. Make a video on "Focus point linked metering"
Very useful thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Very interesting. Thanks!
Glad you liked it Steve.
Thanks for posting this!
You bet!
Brilliant . Thank you
Thanks for taking the time to comment :).
Nice vid thanks! Subbed.
Glad you enjoyed the video. Is there anything you'd like me to cover?
Hmm, did you choose not to include “highlight weighted” metering, or are not a Nikon and Olympus fan? Ideal for moon and sunset etc shots!
5:54
It's there buddy.
@@Photography-ExplainedApologies, I moved on before the 6mins mark. By the way, one helpful feature of Olympus’ live histogram is that the area under the focus point shows green, on the white graph.
I am not sure if you are aware that light meters are very much still alive, and have much more capability than you gave credit to in this video. Yes, you can use the metering system in the camera, and if you do not mind chimping back and forth with the shot you have just taken, then trying trial and error to get the exposure right, go right ahead. The camera is using reflective metering, and as such, can be easily fooled. The advantage of the light meter is that you can use incident metering to attain the proper exposures, and several light meters, such as the Seknonic 858, have the capability of spot metering. The unit provides a 1% spot meter function that is very accurate. You can also meter an entire area and average multiple spot readings on your own to determine a better exposure for your shot.
Next video .. autofocus explained 😀
Next video is sharper images and then I think it's autofocus after that :). Thanks for the comment.
❤❤❤❤❤❤thank you
You are welcome. Glad the video was useful.
So spot for wildlife?
If there are extremes in brightness that you're trying to compensate for then yes.
What about partial metering?
I haven't come across that before Mark.
@@Photography-Explained it's available in some cameras. Could be for backlit subjects. Just a guess
I'll take a look. thanks for the heads up.
40+ years back 35 mm camera had built in meter
Film = ISO
Just one type of metering... But nevertheless still useful I remember film camera days. 👍
That's fair. I think for critical work people would still meter their images though.
My best mate in collage had a dark room in his house. I thought he was crazy at the time but I wish I'd have paid more attention now.
Thank you for a very informative video.
Thanks Michael. I'm really glad you enjoyed it.
No twenty years, In camera metering has been in SLRs since the 70s
Yep, got that wrong. I've only been shooting for a year and so it was before my time. Thanks for the feedback.
just use exposure compensation it's easier
It can be! It's less dynamic in changing situations though.
It makes not a jot of difference which mode you use for birds in flight, ec is your friend, underexpose for dark birds and overexpose for white birds.
Yep, that's another way to do it. Metering TTL saves you having to consciously use exposure compensation (for better or worse...).
@@Photography-Explained For any bird in flight which is not filling at least half the frame, your camera will be clueless as to what you are supposed to be exposing for. That`s when a bit of experience comes in to read the scenario and adjust on the fly.
FF when you shoot wildlife, from behind the steering wheel in, say, the Kgalagadi desert, becomes unwieldy. Have you seen a Canon 1200mm lens? It's a bazooka, and in your way all day. M43 is just so much easier to manage and a plethora of internationally recognised PRO wildlife shooters don't even own FF. Come to Chobe, Kwai, Mabuasehube, Garaghab and see for yourself. Those huge lenses and heavy FF cameras, bulky as they are, are simply too hard to handle. Also, many of us are 50+ or even 80+, so FF is a burden. Low light? Just use longer exposure, bigger aperture. Oly's insane focus and image stabilization betters any FF system by far. M43 / MFT is my call.
I think you're right. There are plenty of people who have commented on my recent videos about this who never actually leave the house with their gear :).
Lovle explain🫵🏻
Glad you enjoyed the video :D!
What a halfassed explanation. 20 years ago we were using light meters? We did but cameras already had excellent meters, I guess he’s never heard of the F4 for example
I'm sorry you didn't enjoy the video. My channel is for beginners. If you've been shooting for a long time it's probably not for you.
You're right. I've never heard of the F4. I started shooting 11 months ago and so it was before my time.
A lightmeter is still an absolute must have in 2024 as it measures incident light (that cameras can’t do), not reflective light. Total nonsense… especially if you want to be serious about photography
I didn't know this. I've made a note to give it a google and learn more about it. thanks!
@@Photography-Explained If you were taking a shot of someone using a light meter, simply aim it at the direction of light source no on the face, so long as the light is pretty consistent then job done.
@@Photography-Explained first of all, my dad Minolta from the 1970’s has bracket exposure and tells you the scenes overall exposure, it’s way more accurate than todays digital cameras. Second a light meter back then was cheep, sekonic made one starting at a few dollars and topping off at like $60 for top of the line, they were very small not much bigger than a key fob in your pocket. How do you call yourself photography explained if you didn’t know this!? Get straight to the point in you dialogue isn’t just too much kerflufflel to listen too
A lightmeter also help to measure Contrast ratio without any guess for beautiful lighting. Good tutorial BTW.
Who needs any lighmeter when You can see final image before You take it. I'm talking about mirrorles. Exposure is creative decission and no lighmeter can create good artistic choice.
only matter when shooting in auto mode. Manual shooting generally mean you control everything regardless of the metering numbers. How else individual photo can be artistic or crabby? Learn the art and ditch the auto everything that take generic photos.
What does it mean for an image to be crabby?
Unless you meant crappy and got autocorrected.
@@Photography-Explained 🤣typo and correction, one of those
But lost Detail which is to bright can‘t be recovered, slightly dark Person can .. so maybe not that good
For sure. But you want to meter to make sure that the highlights don't get overexposed. If you meter incorrectly that's the biggest risk.
Whatta cr4p... We all know the metering modes, gosh. One day I'll make a video about H2O. 😅😅😅