I use highlight weighted metering all the time. It’s perfect for stage performances where subjects move in and out of the super bright lights unpredictably.
Some good explanations and advice on a complicated topic. I like the idea of taking the camera’s advice with its metering and then take over and manually adjust to your liking or how you envisage the scene. Surely that’s the human creatively we really want. I have taken some shots of the Fall in Kananaskis in Alberta and I have been questioning the results. Time for me to take over and stop being lazy. Nice work, thank you.
Dozens and Dozens of other RUclipsrs videos and NO ONE has explained this as clear and easy to understand (no shenanigans) as you. Thank you, you have a new member.
For the people leaving comments, going into incredible detail about this subject and mentioning incident light etc and criticising the advice in this video, why on earth are you watching a channel called 'photography explained' if you already know it all?! This content is is not for you. It's for beginners and improvers. With a RUclips full of advanced photography videos, you can show off your knowledge and debate nuances on them.
Maybe they follow this photographer for his other work, or the algorithm just recommended the video. What's the harm in pointing out a few inaccuracies? Beginners shouldn't be led astray. And if someone wants to provide more detailed explanations in the comments, there's nothing wrong with that. Comments are optional to read, and if the "intended audience" chooses to engage in reading the chat to learn more and/or discuss ; they should be free to do so. That's what the comment section is for.
Agreed. Everybody now is an expert on everything and feel they must chime in on everything. Go make your own videos. Let people try to help us beginners. There will be more right than wrong. Soon mistakes or unintended slip ups will be met with death. Stupse.
Agreed. Everybody now is an expert on everything and feel they must chime in on everything. Go make your own videos. Let people try to help us beginners. There will be more right than wrong.
Great explanation! It is one of the basic technicalities that a lot of new and even experienced photographers miss. However, it is best to have a caveat at the beginning of the video that the metering modes are normally used in full-auto or semi-auto shooting modes. If one is in full manual with all his exposure settings, this won’t really matter since he/she can easily see that in the viewfinder/screen of a mirrorless camera. The only time this would be handy is if that person is checking on his exposure meter/histogram in-camera to nail a shot in manual.
Thank yo for your clear explaination! I've watched many videos on metering and they are so long and so extra detailed that by the time it is finished I really don't know much more than before!!
Mate, where have you been? I'm a photographer-ish, and have seen tens if videos about photography tricks. However, I believe that you are among my favourite channels and you are brilliant, well done!👍🙏
Simple: if i shoot street i prefer matrix metering/ highlight weighted. If i shoot portrait and landscape i prefer center weighted, if i shoot night shoot i definitly use spot
If you are a landscape photographer go with average trust me. I'm a professional landscape photographer and for a lot of scenes definitely average is the best way to go. Not sure on the other ones as I don't do a lot of other types of photography but thank you for the video because it does shed some light on it as well, but yeah, I switched to and it definitely helps with uneven light
I always shoot in manual, so the end of your video was particularly interesting to me, because it forced me to realize that most people are not exposing their images manually. Looking at manual exposure as a short cut to optimal metering of a scene is an excellent bit of reverse psychology. I'm gonna try to use that in my lesson plan. Thanks!
GREAT INFO! I find myself using center weighted or spot metering, depending on the contrast in the scene,,,thanks for taking us back to metering basics!
If you're in manual (manual focus) than the lightmeter in the camera is a tool to check your areas so in this case center, spot or matrix won't change your picture because you did the settings yourself you use the lightmeter in the camera as a tool. It only makes a difference in automatic modes.. Knowing a camera translats everything to mid grey for example take a picture of a complete white door only the white exposed on 5 and the camera will give you grey... that how a camera works that why setting your white balance you take a picture of a mid grey sheet to set the white balance for example for indoor .. first lessons photography
I use zebras set to 95%, see zebras drop exposure until they are gone, and then expose one stop up to see zebras at 95%. Perfect exposure 98% of the time for out doors and indoors.
Simple and straightforward. I find your content very good and i would like to see more. Keep up the good work! You are doing a great job. Regards, your new subscriber
I always take a substitute meter reading when shooting water that has bright light reflecting off it as this confuses the meter into under exposing the scene.
You should always edit your photos. If you don't you aren't getting everything out of your photos. The camera doesn't see what the eyes sees. I used to hate editing pictures until I leaned how to do it and I am still learning. It can take a good image to a great image.
oh boy do i have news for you. jokes aside, learn to edit your photos. If you ever plan on doing paid photography, this is the only way you can keep up with those that can edit their pictures
I think that in a Canon camera spot metering just measure a 2% area in the center of the screen. If you are using the rule of thirds you need to measure, lock and recompose.
Matrix metering considers focus spot also ... your final tip is funny :D ... let me suggest something else - on constantly lit scenes like when you're outside you simply look in the beginning what the exposure for shadows and highlights should be and just follow that .. In case that you cannot work in slow pace you just must know you camera and know how many stops you can go both ways and you can check the exposure with pointing your camera (with focus point in the middle and matrix metering) into highlights and shadow to see where it will go, then recompose and adjust your exposure based on what you need ...
Great explanation, but it would be good to do a comparison on different types of photograph trying all these types of metering to see how does the camera behaves.
Spotmetering off the white bird will give you grey plumage, not white. That's how reflected light metering works. To get white you'll need to "overexpose" by a couple of stops.
This is something I need to say because all too many RUclipsrs get this wrong about metering. 1. In-Camera metering has been around since the 1930’s. Many many film cameras from the 60’s and beyond have some form of internal metering. Particularly consumer or prosumer models. 2. In camera meters including those in modern cameras measure “reflective” light. That is they measure the intensity of light reflecting off a subject. Handheld meters on the other hand, measure “incidental” light, which is the intensity of light falling on to a subject. Although, They also do have the ability to measure “reflective” (pointing it at a subject as you say) with the click of a button. 3. Hand held meters are NOT old school. They are still used today by many people including professionals. They are much more accurate. These meters do other things your in camera meter cannot do with must accuracy Like taking averages of an entire seen. Depending on your subject matter and how serious you are as a hobbies or a pro. They are worth the investment
It was more like 60 years ago. In the 1970s integrated metering TTL was the norm on SLRs. Actually yuo typically pointed the light meter to the light. Center weighed does not expose backlit images correctly. In the 1970s when it was the only thing cameras had buttons to increase exposure on backlit images. Evaluative measuring was created to fix problems of the center weighted..
I'll just add this here. I've been trying to figure out how it works and it only works on full auto, semi auto, and auto iso settings. (Not working in full manual) Because metering is like the computer that sets the brightness of the scene.
Just tried these settings with my A9III Sony and the results weren't radically different. I can see why most people/photographers don't touch this from the base/default settings. Nice to hear but I doubt I will employ it too often.
It makes a big difference in extreme conditions. Another commenter mentioned that they shoot stage work where there is a super strong spot light. If they didn't use the correct metering and the camera metered the entire frame for example, they'd have images that are a big grey mess with nothing important visible.
@@Photography-Explained it was a great explanation. I have a better understanding of when and how to use it. Still hard to get good shots in harsh light 😁. Appreciate you taking the time to make the video. All love.
Hi, at 4:32 you mention that the camera is only going to consider the brightness of the area underneath your "selected focus point". I'm a beginner and I'm not sure I understand. Can you set the spot metering and move the circle around to where you would like? On my camera if I set the metering to "Spot metering", it creates a small circle and it only stays in the middle, I can not move it around, and regardless of what I focus on, it considers the brightness of the middle area where the small circle is
Double check that your camera is actually metering from the circle and not where you move the focus point to (even if the circle doesn't move). Otherwise, put the circle where you want to spot meter, half press the shutter to meter, move your camera to reframe the shot and then take the image. Hope that helps.
@@Photography-Explained Yes, the camera is metering from the circle. I put my focus point on an object in the corner, and the meter is considering the brightness from the circle in the middle. I tried to put the circle on the object, half press the shutter, and after moving the camera to reframe the shot, the meter takes the brightness from the middle again, and not from the subject 😄
Mmm looks like reading the manual or looking for a video on metering for your specific camera might be the next step. The only other thing to try is back button focusing. I switched to that and it was a little bit of a pain to get used to but on my Sony it absolutely works for what you're describing.
@@Photography-Explained Yes, you are right, I forgot about the manual to be honest 😄 I have a Canon R50, and with the manual I found out that the Star "*" button on my camera is the AE lock, and that locks the spot meter on the object, and afterwards I can move the camera to reframe the shot. Thank you for the replies! 😊
all is true prior to Mirrorless and Face and Eye detect AF, Matrix with Face/Eye AF always give priority to face metering...center/partial/spot is use to take few % of center area for metering in Canon but now in same Canon Mirrorless it is always linked to Focus Point (which was not the case in the older models except 1Dx series)
That is only if you choose to use eye/face detect AF. If you leave that off, then Matrix works as Matrix always did. Case in point : I don't typically use eye/face detect on either my Fuji or Nikon camera unless i'm doing a portrait shoot. For general stuff (urban/landscape) i switch it off; some patterns can confuse the AF in thinking there's a face, most notably canal houses along Amsterdam canals :)
If you've lots of shadow and so high contrast in your image then spot meter for the area that you want to keep the details in. i.e. for a shot of someone walking through a beam of light, I'd spot meter on the part of the person you want to be correctly exposed. All easier said than done if you're being reactive to your surroundings when shooting street.
It won't override other settings. It's still useful to have the correct metering in manual mode as your camera will still give you guidance on exposure from the charts etc that you can have on the viewfinder.
@@Photography-ExplainedApologies, I moved on before the 6mins mark. By the way, one helpful feature of Olympus’ live histogram is that the area under the focus point shows green, on the white graph.
@@Photography-Explained For any bird in flight which is not filling at least half the frame, your camera will be clueless as to what you are supposed to be exposing for. That`s when a bit of experience comes in to read the scenario and adjust on the fly.
I commented on two of your videos that I watched, and decided to give at least a go to a third video of yours, so I watched this one and will leave my ever last intervention. About five minutes into the video, you say that you can use spot metering on the white feathers of a bird if the background is dark, to get a correct exposure for the bird. Well, if you do that, the feathers would be greyish and the photo underexposed. You can spot meter the white feathers, but then you ought to compensate by over exposing a bit. For example, there is a trick to not have any highlights blown away in a photo if that is what you want as a result (taking into account that, if shooting raw, it is easer to recover data from the shadows that from the highlights), which is to spot-meter the most bright area on a scene and then over-expose in relation to that measurement two or two and a half stops (how much will depend on the dynamic range of the camera sensor). The fact is that a camera will interpret that what being metered and allowed to be zero in the metering scale, ought to be 18% grey. Therefore, if you photograph say a grey sheet of paper in Automatic or just taking into account what the photometer interprets, the photo will be grey. But if you do the same and photograph a white sheet of paper, the photo will also be grey. Same with black. I suppose you already knew this, but you ought to be more careful or thorough with your explanations in order to avoid misleading beginners. Sooner or later they will be getting to know all these things, but you can make their journey easier (or more arduous). Your videos have good rhythm and are well edited (in my humble opinion), but their content deserve and need a bit more polishing (also in my opinion), in the interest of those beginning photography that might be following you or will be. Keep the work.
FF when you shoot wildlife, from behind the steering wheel in, say, the Kgalagadi desert, becomes unwieldy. Have you seen a Canon 1200mm lens? It's a bazooka, and in your way all day. M43 is just so much easier to manage and a plethora of internationally recognised PRO wildlife shooters don't even own FF. Come to Chobe, Kwai, Mabuasehube, Garaghab and see for yourself. Those huge lenses and heavy FF cameras, bulky as they are, are simply too hard to handle. Also, many of us are 50+ or even 80+, so FF is a burden. Low light? Just use longer exposure, bigger aperture. Oly's insane focus and image stabilization betters any FF system by far. M43 / MFT is my call.
I think you're right. There are plenty of people who have commented on my recent videos about this who never actually leave the house with their gear :).
📷 Want to start taking photos that leave your friends and family speechless? Download our FREE cheat sheets: 👉 photographyexplained.com/cheatsheets/
Thanks..BEST explanation I've ever seen...not just for the sake of content but for actual explaination/teaching
Thanks for the feedback :). Comments like that really keep me motivated to create more content.
I use highlight weighted metering all the time. It’s perfect for stage performances where subjects move in and out of the super bright lights unpredictably.
Nice! I've made a note to use that as an example for the next time I talk about highlight weighted metering.
Some good explanations and advice on a complicated topic. I like the idea of taking the camera’s advice with its metering and then take over and manually adjust to your liking or how you envisage the scene. Surely that’s the human creatively we really want. I have taken some shots of the Fall in Kananaskis in Alberta and I have been questioning the results. Time for me to take over and stop being lazy. Nice work, thank you.
Dozens and Dozens of other RUclipsrs videos and NO ONE has explained this as clear and easy to understand (no shenanigans) as you. Thank you, you have a new member.
For the people leaving comments, going into incredible detail about this subject and mentioning incident light etc and criticising the advice in this video, why on earth are you watching a channel called 'photography explained' if you already know it all?! This content is is not for you. It's for beginners and improvers. With a RUclips full of advanced photography videos, you can show off your knowledge and debate nuances on them.
Maybe they follow this photographer for his other work, or the algorithm just recommended the video. What's the harm in pointing out a few inaccuracies? Beginners shouldn't be led astray. And if someone wants to provide more detailed explanations in the comments, there's nothing wrong with that. Comments are optional to read, and if the "intended audience" chooses to engage in reading the chat to learn more and/or discuss ; they should be free to do so. That's what the comment section is for.
Agreed. Everybody now is an expert on everything and feel they must chime in on everything. Go make your own videos. Let people try to help us beginners. There will be more right than wrong. Soon mistakes or unintended slip ups will be met with death. Stupse.
Agreed. Everybody now is an expert on everything and feel they must chime in on everything. Go make your own videos. Let people try to help us beginners. There will be more right than wrong.
Great explanation! It is one of the basic technicalities that a lot of new and even experienced photographers miss. However, it is best to have a caveat at the beginning of the video that the metering modes are normally used in full-auto or semi-auto shooting modes. If one is in full manual with all his exposure settings, this won’t really matter since he/she can easily see that in the viewfinder/screen of a mirrorless camera. The only time this would be handy is if that person is checking on his exposure meter/histogram in-camera to nail a shot in manual.
Yeah that is fair enough.
Thank yo for your clear explaination! I've watched many videos on metering and they are so long and so extra detailed that by the time it is finished I really don't know much more than before!!
Thank you for this to the point, simple explanation, and lively metering video. You earned a sub.
You're welcome Robert. I'm really glad that you enjoyed the video mate.
This is the best tutorial I have ever seen! Very practical.
A very beautiful video and well explained Sir. As a novice hobbyist photographer this helps a lot.
One of the best tutorials/explanations i’ve seen i while.
Nice voice to listen to lol ❤
Cheers Graham! Kind words like that keep me motivated. Currently working on the next video when I could be in the pub.
Best explanation I've heard, with excellent examples.
Mate, where have you been? I'm a photographer-ish, and have seen tens if videos about photography tricks. However, I believe that you are among my favourite channels and you are brilliant, well done!👍🙏
Great video, makes it all a lot easier to remember, I tend to shoot a lot in Spot but will start using matrix more
Thank you so much for this! Best explained metering video ever!!!!!
Thanks mate! Comments like that really keep me motivated to create more content.
best explanation so far about photography metering. thanks
Thanks mate! I really appreciate the comment.
Best simplest Metering break down, thank you so much ♥
Glad it was helpful!
Simple: if i shoot street i prefer matrix metering/ highlight weighted. If i shoot portrait and landscape i prefer center weighted, if i shoot night shoot i definitly use spot
What if in portrait photography, subject is at side. Should be spot?
Greatest explanation that I have seen on metering modes!! Thanks so much!
You’re welcome! I’m really glad you found the video useful.
Super clear and simple explanation of something that is not !
If you are a landscape photographer go with average trust me. I'm a professional landscape photographer and for a lot of scenes definitely average is the best way to go. Not sure on the other ones as I don't do a lot of other types of photography but thank you for the video because it does shed some light on it as well, but yeah, I switched to and it definitely helps with uneven light
Are you the Nev shooting with GFX on X? You have some beautiful work. Congrats!
Well... Here's a really useful video!!! 👏👏👏
I always shoot in manual, so the end of your video was particularly interesting to me, because it forced me to realize that most people are not exposing their images manually. Looking at manual exposure as a short cut to optimal metering of a scene is an excellent bit of reverse psychology. I'm gonna try to use that in my lesson plan. Thanks!
Awesome! I'm really glad you got something from the video.
Spot metering and ae lock. Simple and efficient.
I use the manual mode which you covered towards the end. Works good for planned shots. 🙂
Awesome to hear that I'm on the right tracks. Thanks for the comment.
A very informative video for beginners 🙏🏿
What better way there could be to explain the metering modes, especially for beginner's and amateurs. Keep up the good work.
Holy cow. Cheers for the kind words!
GREAT INFO! I find myself using center weighted or spot metering, depending on the contrast in the scene,,,thanks for taking us back to metering basics!
Thanks for the comment Hurley! Glad you enjoyed the video.
Very well explained. Thanks.
If you're in manual (manual focus) than the lightmeter in the camera is a tool to check your areas so in this case center, spot or matrix won't change your picture because you did the settings yourself you use the lightmeter in the camera as a tool. It only makes a difference in automatic modes.. Knowing a camera translats everything to mid grey for example take a picture of a complete white door only the white exposed on 5 and the camera will give you grey... that how a camera works that why setting your white balance you take a picture of a mid grey sheet to set the white balance for example for indoor
.. first lessons photography
Thank you for the great explanation! Would using Spot Metering help if the subject is behind a big bright screen?
I use zebras set to 95%, see zebras drop exposure until they are gone, and then expose one stop up to see zebras at 95%. Perfect exposure 98% of the time for out doors and indoors.
Thankyou this has helped 👍
Glad you enjoyed the video Mark.
Simple and straightforward. I find your content very good and i would like to see more. Keep up the good work! You are doing a great job. Regards, your new subscriber
Amazing! Thanks for the feedback it really keeps me motivated seeing messages like that.
I always take a substitute meter reading when shooting water that has bright light reflecting off it as this confuses the meter into under exposing the scene.
I am a new photographer and I thought I would have to edit my photos the whole time. Thank you very much
I didn't edit a photo for months. Getting it right in camera is great practice for new photographers.
You're welcome!
You should always edit your photos. If you don't you aren't getting everything out of your photos. The camera doesn't see what the eyes sees. I used to hate editing pictures until I leaned how to do it and I am still learning. It can take a good image to a great image.
oh boy do i have news for you. jokes aside, learn to edit your photos. If you ever plan on doing paid photography, this is the only way you can keep up with those that can edit their pictures
cant do that when shooting raw
I think that in a Canon camera spot metering just measure a 2% area in the center of the screen. If you are using the rule of thirds you need to measure, lock and recompose.
I was needing this.. thank you. Just gonna leave a great tip I learned this week. Those grey lens back covers from Sony.. are a 18% grey "card"!
Ah! That's genius. I've a bunch of them lay about the place.
Or 18% ..
@@arnolfini1434 yes!! 😁thank you! corrected
Matrix metering considers focus spot also ... your final tip is funny :D ... let me suggest something else - on constantly lit scenes like when you're outside you simply look in the beginning what the exposure for shadows and highlights should be and just follow that .. In case that you cannot work in slow pace you just must know you camera and know how many stops you can go both ways and you can check the exposure with pointing your camera (with focus point in the middle and matrix metering) into highlights and shadow to see where it will go, then recompose and adjust your exposure based on what you need ...
That makes total sense. Thanks for sharing!
Great explanation, well done...
Great content, subbed. Good luck with the channel.
Thanks mate! Looking forward to getting stuck in and putting out more content.
Great explanation, but it would be good to do a comparison on different types of photograph trying all these types of metering to see how does the camera behaves.
Best explanation by far 😊
Thanks Maria! I really appreciate the kind words.
Hi man, what equipment do you use to film your videos? The imagen looks great. Thanks!
1 question: the metering mode avaluate always the center or metering where my af point on cene ?
so what would i use for a picture of a dark object infront of a white or light gray background
Spotmetering off the white bird will give you grey plumage, not white. That's how reflected light metering works. To get white you'll need to "overexpose" by a couple of stops.
05:30 if your camera tries to expose those bright patches in the forest…the dark patches wont be “blown out”, they will be crushed and darker.
00:15 if that is mediocre, what are my photos???💀💀💀
You are far too kind haha :)
Not being kind... Being honest 😢😂
IS this only if you shoot in Automatic, as you would adjust the settings yourself in Manual>
This is something I need to say because all too many RUclipsrs get this wrong about metering.
1. In-Camera metering has been around since the 1930’s. Many many film cameras from the 60’s and beyond have some form of internal metering. Particularly consumer or prosumer models.
2. In camera meters including those in modern cameras measure “reflective” light. That is they measure the intensity of light reflecting off a subject.
Handheld meters on the other hand, measure “incidental” light, which is the intensity of light falling on to a subject. Although, They also do have the ability to measure “reflective” (pointing it at a subject as you say) with the click of a button.
3. Hand held meters are NOT old school. They are still used today by many people including professionals. They are much more accurate.
These meters do other things your in camera meter cannot do with must accuracy Like taking averages of an entire seen.
Depending on your subject matter and how serious you are as a hobbies or a pro. They are worth the investment
Whats are the best metering mode in camera 750 in outdoor bro?
Thank you, I've been using a camera for 2 years and I never knew exactly what metering was
No worries! I'm glad the video helped :).
It was more like 60 years ago. In the 1970s integrated metering TTL was the norm on SLRs. Actually yuo typically pointed the light meter to the light.
Center weighed does not expose backlit images correctly. In the 1970s when it was the only thing cameras had buttons to increase exposure on backlit images. Evaluative measuring was created to fix problems of the center weighted..
Nice one, I appreciate the insights. It was before my time but it's good to learn so I can make my videos more accurate.
Well done. Thanks.
cheers for this
I'll just add this here.
I've been trying to figure out how it works and it only works on full auto, semi auto, and auto iso settings. (Not working in full manual)
Because metering is like the computer that sets the brightness of the scene.
Bracketing works too
Great explanation, thank you! New subscriber 🙌
Thanks for the sub!
Thank you.
Great info.
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent Video!
Thank you very much!
Amazing tips, great efforts
Thanks mate. Really appreciate the kind words.
Just tried these settings with my A9III Sony and the results weren't radically different. I can see why most people/photographers don't touch this from the base/default settings. Nice to hear but I doubt I will employ it too often.
It makes a big difference in extreme conditions. Another commenter mentioned that they shoot stage work where there is a super strong spot light. If they didn't use the correct metering and the camera metered the entire frame for example, they'd have images that are a big grey mess with nothing important visible.
@@Photography-Explained it was a great explanation. I have a better understanding of when and how to use it. Still hard to get good shots in harsh light 😁. Appreciate you taking the time to make the video. All love.
9:45 I don’t know where to find my exposure meter on my Sony a6400.
Hi, at 4:32 you mention that the camera is only going to consider the brightness of the area underneath your "selected focus point". I'm a beginner and I'm not sure I understand.
Can you set the spot metering and move the circle around to where you would like? On my camera if I set the metering to "Spot metering", it creates a small circle and it only stays in the middle, I can not move it around, and regardless of what I focus on, it considers the brightness of the middle area where the small circle is
Double check that your camera is actually metering from the circle and not where you move the focus point to (even if the circle doesn't move).
Otherwise, put the circle where you want to spot meter, half press the shutter to meter, move your camera to reframe the shot and then take the image.
Hope that helps.
@@Photography-Explained
Yes, the camera is metering from the circle. I put my focus point on an object in the corner, and the meter is considering the brightness from the circle in the middle.
I tried to put the circle on the object, half press the shutter, and after moving the camera to reframe the shot, the meter takes the brightness from the middle again, and not from the subject 😄
Mmm looks like reading the manual or looking for a video on metering for your specific camera might be the next step.
The only other thing to try is back button focusing. I switched to that and it was a little bit of a pain to get used to but on my Sony it absolutely works for what you're describing.
@@Photography-Explained
Yes, you are right, I forgot about the manual to be honest 😄
I have a Canon R50, and with the manual I found out that the Star "*" button on my camera is the AE lock, and that locks the spot meter on the object, and afterwards I can move the camera to reframe the shot.
Thank you for the replies! 😊
No worries. Glad you got it sorted!
This is amazing thank you
Hey Ben. Super excited that you enjoyed the video mate!
Just one quesntion.. Does this even matter if i use full manual settings (ss, aperture, iso) mode?
In manual mode the metering will still give you an indication of your exposure.
Thanks for posting this!
You bet!
Center weighted metering with back buttòn exposure and focus lock works for me
Yep, that's what I use whenever I'm not shooting a landscape.
thanks for the video :)
You're welcome!
where is the spot, center weighted metering on a dslr ovf?
what if im mostly focus n recompose?
all is true prior to Mirrorless and Face and Eye detect AF, Matrix with Face/Eye AF always give priority to face metering...center/partial/spot is use to take few % of center area for metering in Canon but now in same Canon Mirrorless it is always linked to Focus Point (which was not the case in the older models except 1Dx series)
Didn't know that. Thanks for sharing.
That is only if you choose to use eye/face detect AF. If you leave that off, then Matrix works as Matrix always did. Case in point : I don't typically use eye/face detect on either my Fuji or Nikon camera unless i'm doing a portrait shoot. For general stuff (urban/landscape) i switch it off; some patterns can confuse the AF in thinking there's a face, most notably canal houses along Amsterdam canals :)
Thank u !
Im streetphotographer.... In golden hour and in low light best metering is also spot metering? And thx for the amazing video
If you've lots of shadow and so high contrast in your image then spot meter for the area that you want to keep the details in.
i.e. for a shot of someone walking through a beam of light, I'd spot meter on the part of the person you want to be correctly exposed.
All easier said than done if you're being reactive to your surroundings when shooting street.
@@Photography-Explained rly ty for ur feedback
For landscape and night i prefer spot, for portrait i prefer center weight. For street i prefer highlight weighted multi matrix metering
Same here.
Very useful thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Very interesting. Thanks!
Glad you liked it Steve.
For a night time concert, do you reckon that spot metering is the way to go?
If there’s lots of dark and then extreme light (spot/stage lights) then yes that makes sense.
Does this override your settings when shooting in manual mode?
It won't override other settings.
It's still useful to have the correct metering in manual mode as your camera will still give you guidance on exposure from the charts etc that you can have on the viewfinder.
good explanation, but if we use mannul mode, none of this matters...right?
The camera will still show the exposure meter and you and then adjust your manual settings based upon that.
But those metering doesnt work in full manual mode right?
Brilliant . Thank you
Thanks for taking the time to comment :).
Which brand?
What do you recommend for outdoor sports?
If everything is well lit and reasonably even then it doesn't really matter :).
Seems you are using A7R5. Make a video on "Focus point linked metering"
Nice vid thanks! Subbed.
Glad you enjoyed the video. Is there anything you'd like me to cover?
Next video .. autofocus explained 😀
Next video is sharper images and then I think it's autofocus after that :). Thanks for the comment.
Hmm, did you choose not to include “highlight weighted” metering, or are not a Nikon and Olympus fan? Ideal for moon and sunset etc shots!
5:54
It's there buddy.
@@Photography-ExplainedApologies, I moved on before the 6mins mark. By the way, one helpful feature of Olympus’ live histogram is that the area under the focus point shows green, on the white graph.
But if u shoot raw.. does it mater?
Yes
What about partial metering?
I haven't come across that before Mark.
@@Photography-Explained it's available in some cameras. Could be for backlit subjects. Just a guess
I'll take a look. thanks for the heads up.
❤❤❤❤❤❤thank you
You are welcome. Glad the video was useful.
40+ years back 35 mm camera had built in meter
Film = ISO
Just one type of metering... But nevertheless still useful I remember film camera days. 👍
That's fair. I think for critical work people would still meter their images though.
My best mate in collage had a dark room in his house. I thought he was crazy at the time but I wish I'd have paid more attention now.
So spot for wildlife?
If there are extremes in brightness that you're trying to compensate for then yes.
No twenty years, In camera metering has been in SLRs since the 70s
Yep, got that wrong. I've only been shooting for a year and so it was before my time. Thanks for the feedback.
Thanks for great explanation, but i cant help but notice that your video is over exposed(?)
It makes not a jot of difference which mode you use for birds in flight, ec is your friend, underexpose for dark birds and overexpose for white birds.
Yep, that's another way to do it. Metering TTL saves you having to consciously use exposure compensation (for better or worse...).
@@Photography-Explained For any bird in flight which is not filling at least half the frame, your camera will be clueless as to what you are supposed to be exposing for. That`s when a bit of experience comes in to read the scenario and adjust on the fly.
Thank you for a very informative video.
Thanks Michael. I'm really glad you enjoyed it.
I commented on two of your videos that I watched, and decided to give at least a go to a third video of yours, so I watched this one and will leave my ever last intervention.
About five minutes into the video, you say that you can use spot metering on the white feathers of a bird if the background is dark, to get a correct exposure for the bird. Well, if you do that, the feathers would be greyish and the photo underexposed. You can spot meter the white feathers, but then you ought to compensate by over exposing a bit. For example, there is a trick to not have any highlights blown away in a photo if that is what you want as a result (taking into account that, if shooting raw, it is easer to recover data from the shadows that from the highlights), which is to spot-meter the most bright area on a scene and then over-expose in relation to that measurement two or two and a half stops (how much will depend on the dynamic range of the camera sensor).
The fact is that a camera will interpret that what being metered and allowed to be zero in the metering scale, ought to be 18% grey. Therefore, if you photograph say a grey sheet of paper in Automatic or just taking into account what the photometer interprets, the photo will be grey. But if you do the same and photograph a white sheet of paper, the photo will also be grey. Same with black.
I suppose you already knew this, but you ought to be more careful or thorough with your explanations in order to avoid misleading beginners. Sooner or later they will be getting to know all these things, but you can make their journey easier (or more arduous). Your videos have good rhythm and are well edited (in my humble opinion), but their content deserve and need a bit more polishing (also in my opinion), in the interest of those beginning photography that might be following you or will be.
Keep the work.
Dude, I'm making these videos as a hobby... They're never going to be perfect.
FF when you shoot wildlife, from behind the steering wheel in, say, the Kgalagadi desert, becomes unwieldy. Have you seen a Canon 1200mm lens? It's a bazooka, and in your way all day. M43 is just so much easier to manage and a plethora of internationally recognised PRO wildlife shooters don't even own FF. Come to Chobe, Kwai, Mabuasehube, Garaghab and see for yourself. Those huge lenses and heavy FF cameras, bulky as they are, are simply too hard to handle. Also, many of us are 50+ or even 80+, so FF is a burden. Low light? Just use longer exposure, bigger aperture. Oly's insane focus and image stabilization betters any FF system by far. M43 / MFT is my call.
I think you're right. There are plenty of people who have commented on my recent videos about this who never actually leave the house with their gear :).