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Thanks for the video. Two quick points. I still use spot metering on the occasion (in wildlife) in specific situations with dark subject on bright background or visa-versa. Second, letting your ISO change the marker on your metering to 0/0 does not mean it's properly exposed. It simply means that the images is at the brightness level the camera believes it should be. Exposure (as you know) is simply the light hitting the sensor via aperture and shutter speed. ISO is simply brightness or post-processing amplification.
I only work in manual mode with live-view, starting out with ISO based on how dark it is and moving objects, then background composition aka aperture, and lastly shutter speed.
Thank you! I've been looking for a video that explains the multiple metering modes and hadn't found one I understand. This is a great simple and concise explanation.
I use Nikon Z and center weighted and move camera to include balance of tones. Lately I set camera to A and have the rear command dial set to exposure comp. Now the camera A mode gets me close and compensation gets it perfect. Camera is set to show histogram before exposure. Never chimp, never miss. In computer raw profile set to flat or low contrast and then auto. This gets me close and I only need small corrections. Try linear profile if you like this.
I'm generally in matrix, or highlight-weighted matrix metering. The latter is super for stage events - dance, plays, concerts. I might use center-weighted for macro, and spot metering is pretty rare these days. I also generally have my lens control ring set to exposure comp, if I'm in my default mode of Manual with Auto-ISO. this makes for a really quick exposure adjustment when needed.
On my Lumix G9 I have a metering mode called Cneter-Weighted. It measures light from the entire clacene with emphasis on the center I do not believe I have any type of face metering BUT there is a mode called Hilight Shadow where I can apply Baked in curves right into the image... but I don't use it
That sounds way more complicated that spot metering. 10 years of using spot metering on manual for everything with no issues. It's extremely fast and simple.
I really like the Face Priority Metering mode on my A7IV. I feel it helps me ensure that my subjects are properly exposed. I know you mentioned to turn it off and use exposure comp. Isn't it effectively the same to keep it on and use exposure comp, too. I have zebra lines turned of for highlights. So I'm always keeping any eye out for blown out highlights.
Really like the way you explained metering Ive been using center metering for most of my photos but I thing that exposing for the light in my night walks would be a huge difference im wanting to try
I use the same method as you, multi metering and use exposure compensation. I have face priority metering turned on and still ride the exposure compensation to override as needed.
I only shoot in manual mode and use spot metering when using Ansel Adams zone system - in delicate situations to get the main subjects properly exposed. Otherwise I use what you call multi metering mode consulting the histogram
That's exactly what I use too - matrix metering; I feel like it's the best light metering option and I love how it balances everything out. I feel like you can't go wrong with this one.😊
I used to use metering back in Dslr day, spot metering to be specific. In order to calculate the light and darkness on each spot. Now I rarely used it. Live preview on mirrorless is so good. Not to mention wavefrom and false colour on some camera
I'm a landscape photographer and I use average as it works the best for uneven light admittedly though I do use GFX camera so it makes it fairly easy with metering because the dynamic range is so good in the camera. It's not such an issue with medium format, but if you're using crop sensor cameras or micro 4/3rds metering is critical
I’ve used spot a lot on smaller wildlife, and evaluative (canon) for portraits. I like putting an on camera flash even in the day just to balance things out a bit in the daytime. I use -2/3 stop on the flash meter and -1/3 on the ambient. My camera isn’t the newest greatest (RP) but it holds up all right. I like using manual mode and refer to the histogram. A useful trick is to exposure bracket in rapid burst. 3 shots -1, 0 and +1, it’s the easiest way to always get one useful picture every time.
Good video. If you were walking through a house with a camera on a gimbal what metering setting would you use? The problem is that some rooms are dark and some are bright. Also, some dark rooms have bright light coming in windows. We obviously use auto ISO which will adapt, but I have often wondered if changing the metering might help... any tips? I think it would be better if you could use a variable shutter speed (auto Shutter speed lol) to control exposure, instead of auto ISO, allowing us to avoid noise, but as I understand it that isn't an option. Or is it?
I typically shoot in spot metering (with emphasis on focus location) when shooting birds. Often birds will be flying against a dark shadowy background or against a bright sky. This helps make sure the camera is metering on the bird. I always have face metering on for the same reason. The rest of the time, I am in Multi Metering mode. Regardless which mode I am in, I have Zebra turned on with a 1.09+ setting, watch for over exposed areas and adjust manually, or with the exposure compensation dial in order to not blow out highlights. Of course, Milky Way photography is a completely different workflow.
@@itlabs2351 there are times when proper metering on the bird is more important than a blown out sky. Imagine bird in the shade of a tree or the edge of a marsh, with sections of bright sky showing through. I would prefer the bird, and most leaves, be properly metered than the patches of sky, especially if I am shooting at high shutter speed/ISO. Trying to push exposure on a dark bird often results in an enormous amount of noise. Next, imagine a bird flying overhead, against a bright sky. The bottom of the bird will surely be underexposed if one adjusts for the sky. I’m fine, in some circumstances, with a white sky. That said, I often use zebras on my Sony camera and will compromise, with emphasis on the bird. Landscape is completely different because the low ISO typically allows more dynamic range, allowing me to push and pull exposure more.
Histograms! If you are shooting RAW expose the histogram to the right just before it clips the high tones. You will now have pictures you can extract maximum detail from.
Tbh! The fastest most reliable way is still an external light meter - Sekonic is the best (only one?) - even the cheapest ones are nice… remember to calibrate it to your camera-brand though
Hi Pierre, another very useful video this was I really enjoyed it. The Only time I use Spot Metering is when I photograph the Moon. By using Spot Metering for the Moon it doesn't have that very bright colour outside the circle of the Moon. I find it's the best way to shoot the Moon. So my final picture is just the Moon and anywhere outside of the Moon is Dark. Many thanks for this great video and your tips and settings, much appreciated. 😊
Thnx for the video. Only time I use spotmetering is when shooting bands on stage and a lot of fast changing lights are used (direction, color, intensity). The the only thing that matters: my target that must be metered right.
Multi ppl is people? In my opinion there is always one most important target, so I don’t mind if the rest is less accurate metered. Most of the time in less fast changing lights it is okay anyway and the effect of spotmetering is less dominant. But in case of intense lights and fast light flashing all over the podium spot metering is key for me.
I’ve often wondered for bird in flight photography which is better. I normally use matrix on Sony a1 but constantly adjusting exp comp. BTW shooting man with auto iso.
Another great video Pierre. Have you any idea about this? The dynamic range of the image displayed on the screen seems to be restricted on Sony cameras . For example if I raise the iso to say 12800, then start to decrease shutter speed, the exposure gets blown out to a point. As I further decrease SS below 1s the exposure doesn’t get any brighter and keeps a small part of exposed image on the screen. In context if using a nd10, and I want to boost exposure to see the composition I am unable. Any ideas? Why this occurs. Obviously you have bright monitoring available. No one seems to have the answer, so I thought if anyone would know it would be yourself. Cheers Chris
@@Pierretlambert no, its not the screen. Seems to be software limitation imo. You also get the effect in reverse if you set 30 sec shutter, then keep raising iso. It gets to point that it stops getting brighter (even when the screen isn’t fully bright) . For example shooting dark sky, the camera won’t you overexpose the image to see what the sensor can see. Might have to fire a question at Sony support. Only picked up on it because the canon r5 could do it. Thanks anyway, thought it was worth asking in case you had come across it. 👍
No metering is required - Just experience in comparing/remembering what your viewfinder/monitor showed compared to your resulting image back home. Helps if you started photography in film before digital came around - It was a skill you simply naturally developed.
i use spot+evlock. matrix/evalutive is a "rudimental" AI mode, the camera subdivide the image in zones and do a spot measure for each one, then use information like lens used, focal distance, scene color, point of af the try to understand what are you doing and use an huge database of case to find the correct exposure. when someone said "i shot in manual" using matrix/evaltative make me laugh.
I have a 7100 I've been waiting as long as I could to evolve from. I've been studying and comparing lenses and what not in the Sony world for years, waiting for the right time (and the budget to go "wild"). I accepted the fact that Nikon was way behind in mirror less and was fine going to the best. That was until I toyed with the new Nikon zf and went reading everything about it to confirm my feeling. I bought it without even thinking and have no regrets whatsoever. Going from the d7100 to the zf felt like when I went from a cheap bridge to the 7100 many years back.
But if you have an evf won’t it just show you how the photo will turn out? The point of mirrorless cameras? Having all settings on manual nothing in auto or priority
My understanding of H+ is that it’s effectively a “protect the highlights” mode. This is my default setting for stage photography to keep Caucasian foreheads from blowing out. In those situations it becomes “ETTR Mode.”
Oh ohh another what the "pro's" know video, what determines one being a pro? How about you "pro's" title them what experienced photographers know because i for one am far from being a pro but i have a lot of experience as a hobbyist
Goooood Morning! What else do you want to learn? :)
▹ How I edit my photos (MASTER presets pack): ptl.fm/presets & ptl.fm/presetsmasteriii
▹ Download my Settings for Street Photography for FREE! pierretlambert.com/free
▹ Join the Patreon family for exclusive content, bts and more: patreon.com/pierretlambert
▹ Become a Better Photographer in 30 Days with me: pierretlambert.com/30daytogreatphotos
Thanks for the video. Two quick points. I still use spot metering on the occasion (in wildlife) in specific situations with dark subject on bright background or visa-versa. Second, letting your ISO change the marker on your metering to 0/0 does not mean it's properly exposed. It simply means that the images is at the brightness level the camera believes it should be. Exposure (as you know) is simply the light hitting the sensor via aperture and shutter speed. ISO is simply brightness or post-processing amplification.
I only work in manual mode with live-view, starting out with ISO based on how dark it is and moving objects, then background composition aka aperture, and lastly shutter speed.
I love the way the channel is going.
More about teaching, great.
Keep going the same way.
Thank you! I may have to start a new channel with these videos lol...
I use manual mode with spot metering. Got an old canon 100D, but get amazing results out of it.
Thank you! I've been looking for a video that explains the multiple metering modes and hadn't found one I understand. This is a great simple and concise explanation.
I use Nikon Z and center weighted and move camera to include balance of tones. Lately I set camera to A and have the rear command dial set to exposure comp. Now the camera A mode gets me close and compensation gets it perfect. Camera is set to show histogram before exposure. Never chimp, never miss. In computer raw profile set to flat or low contrast and then auto. This gets me close and I only need small corrections. Try linear profile if you like this.
I have a Sony and wasn't aware of the face priority setting. Thanks for the info!
I've been using Face Priority since the A7III. Bonus Tip: activate focus point link and change AWB to white priority.
Perfect Timing, not too long ago I was about to look up what metering is for and how to use it.
Great Video
Some of us not so old school guys still use an external handheld light meter! Great video btw. Metering is so important and overlooked today.
I'm generally in matrix, or highlight-weighted matrix metering. The latter is super for stage events - dance, plays, concerts. I might use center-weighted for macro, and spot metering is pretty rare these days. I also generally have my lens control ring set to exposure comp, if I'm in my default mode of Manual with Auto-ISO. this makes for a really quick exposure adjustment when needed.
On my Lumix G9 I have a metering mode called Cneter-Weighted. It measures light from the entire clacene with emphasis on the center
I do not believe I have any type of face metering BUT there is a mode called Hilight Shadow where I can apply Baked in curves right into the image... but I don't use it
That sounds way more complicated that spot metering. 10 years of using spot metering on manual for everything with no issues. It's extremely fast and simple.
The bonus tip was very helpful for me. I had exactly this problem on my last shoot and now I know how to avoid it in future. Thanks a lot!
Great content as always!
I really like the Face Priority Metering mode on my A7IV. I feel it helps me ensure that my subjects are properly exposed. I know you mentioned to turn it off and use exposure comp. Isn't it effectively the same to keep it on and use exposure comp, too. I have zebra lines turned of for highlights. So I'm always keeping any eye out for blown out highlights.
Really like the way you explained metering Ive been using center metering for most of my photos but I thing that exposing for the light in my night walks would be a huge difference im wanting to try
Hi this has been a very helpful video for me I will try these settings Thank you
I use the same method as you, multi metering and use exposure compensation. I have face priority metering turned on and still ride the exposure compensation to override as needed.
I only shoot in manual mode and use spot metering when using Ansel Adams zone system - in delicate situations to get the main subjects properly exposed. Otherwise I use what you call multi metering mode consulting the histogram
That's exactly what I use too - matrix metering; I feel like it's the best light metering option and I love how it balances everything out. I feel like you can't go wrong with this one.😊
Still using a lightmeter for studio portraits with flash
Merci much Pierre 😊
So helpful ❤
I like to have my Histogram showing on my Sony a7iii, I keep an eye on how well balanced it is and how the scene looks in the EVF.
I used to use metering back in Dslr day, spot metering to be specific.
In order to calculate the light and darkness on each spot.
Now I rarely used it. Live preview on mirrorless is so good.
Not to mention wavefrom and false colour on some camera
Without a light meter, u can meter your palm less 1-stop will be roughly about 18% grey. Or just measure grass which is about 18% grey.
great information. I didn't know about the Face Priority in Multi-Metering setting, and that explains some of my issues as well. Thanks !!
I'm a landscape photographer and I use average as it works the best for uneven light admittedly though I do use GFX camera so it makes it fairly easy with metering because the dynamic range is so good in the camera. It's not such an issue with medium format, but if you're using crop sensor cameras or micro 4/3rds metering is critical
Thanks Pierre you're awesome!
I’ve used spot a lot on smaller wildlife, and evaluative (canon) for portraits. I like putting an on camera flash even in the day just to balance things out a bit in the daytime. I use -2/3 stop on the flash meter and -1/3 on the ambient. My camera isn’t the newest greatest (RP) but it holds up all right. I like using manual mode and refer to the histogram. A useful trick is to exposure bracket in rapid burst. 3 shots -1, 0 and +1, it’s the easiest way to always get one useful picture every time.
True for the bracketing!! Thanks for sharing
Good video. If you were walking through a house with a camera on a gimbal what metering setting would you use? The problem is that some rooms are dark and some are bright. Also, some dark rooms have bright light coming in windows. We obviously use auto ISO which will adapt, but I have often wondered if changing the metering might help... any tips? I think it would be better if you could use a variable shutter speed (auto Shutter speed lol) to control exposure, instead of auto ISO, allowing us to avoid noise, but as I understand it that isn't an option. Or is it?
Such a nice Video, made my Day :)
I typically shoot in spot metering (with emphasis on focus location) when shooting birds. Often birds will be flying against a dark shadowy background or against a bright sky. This helps make sure the camera is metering on the bird. I always have face metering on for the same reason. The rest of the time, I am in Multi Metering mode. Regardless which mode I am in, I have Zebra turned on with a 1.09+ setting, watch for over exposed areas and adjust manually, or with the exposure compensation dial in order to not blow out highlights. Of course, Milky Way photography is a completely different workflow.
how would you spot meter against a blown out sky shooting manual?
@@itlabs2351 there are times when proper metering on the bird is more important than a blown out sky. Imagine bird in the shade of a tree or the edge of a marsh, with sections of bright sky showing through. I would prefer the bird, and most leaves, be properly metered than the patches of sky, especially if I am shooting at high shutter speed/ISO. Trying to push exposure on a dark bird often results in an enormous amount of noise. Next, imagine a bird flying overhead, against a bright sky. The bottom of the bird will surely be underexposed if one adjusts for the sky. I’m fine, in some circumstances, with a white sky. That said, I often use zebras on my Sony camera and will compromise, with emphasis on the bird. Landscape is completely different because the low ISO typically allows more dynamic range, allowing me to push and pull exposure more.
Well done. Thanks!
Never knew about face priority, thanks Pierre! 😊
Used to be a problem before. With modern mirrorless cameras not such a big issue
exposure lock helps when you use spot metering
A lightmeter is measuring the light hitting the object. The camera is measuring the object reflected light. This is not the same :-D
Great content!
extremely helpful,thank you 👏
its very helpfull. thanks a lot
nice video but I can't use exposure compensation but only shutter speed in manual mode
Histograms! If you are shooting RAW expose the histogram to the right just before it clips the high tones. You will now have pictures you can extract maximum detail from.
Tbh! The fastest most reliable way is still an external light meter - Sekonic is the best (only one?) - even the cheapest ones are nice… remember to calibrate it to your camera-brand though
You must have the lifetime of cat 😂 too cumbersome
@@HilmarSchacht-zm8kg have you even tried using a light meter??? your comment sounds like pure nonsense
Great video Tim
I still use spot because I don't like it when my camera accidentally meters for the background instead of my subject. But I' willing to try this!
Hello, the Canon R6 II has this configuration
Hi Pierre, another very useful video this was I really enjoyed it. The Only time I use Spot Metering is when I photograph the Moon. By using Spot Metering for the Moon it doesn't have that very bright colour outside the circle of the Moon. I find it's the best way to shoot the Moon. So my final picture is just the Moon and anywhere outside of the Moon is Dark. Many thanks for this great video and your tips and settings, much appreciated. 😊
Thanks Pierre 😊
Thnx for the video. Only time I use spotmetering is when shooting bands on stage and a lot of fast changing lights are used (direction, color, intensity). The the only thing that matters: my target that must be metered right.
how do you spot meter multi ppl on stage?
Multi ppl is people? In my opinion there is always one most important target, so I don’t mind if the rest is less accurate metered.
Most of the time in less fast changing lights it is okay anyway and the effect of spotmetering is less dominant. But in case of intense lights and fast light flashing all over the podium spot metering is key for me.
I’ve often wondered for bird in flight photography which is better. I normally use matrix on Sony a1 but constantly adjusting exp comp. BTW shooting man with auto iso.
Spot 😂
@@rolvmariusfaleide3093 thanks I’ll try that
Another great video Pierre. Have you any idea about this? The dynamic range of the image displayed on the screen seems to be restricted on Sony cameras . For example if I raise the iso to say 12800, then start to decrease shutter speed, the exposure gets blown out to a point. As I further decrease SS below 1s the exposure doesn’t get any brighter and keeps a small part of exposed image on the screen. In context if using a nd10, and I want to boost exposure to see the composition I am unable. Any ideas? Why this occurs. Obviously you have bright monitoring available. No one seems to have the answer, so I thought if anyone would know it would be yourself. Cheers Chris
Do you think it is the brightest the screen can show?
@@Pierretlambert no, its not the screen. Seems to be software limitation imo. You also get the effect in reverse if you set 30 sec shutter, then keep raising iso. It gets to point that it stops getting brighter (even when the screen isn’t fully bright) . For example shooting dark sky, the camera won’t you overexpose the image to see what the sensor can see. Might have to fire a question at Sony support. Only picked up on it because the canon r5 could do it. Thanks anyway, thought it was worth asking in case you had come across it. 👍
Thanks Pierre, do u permanently stay in Tokyo ?
No metering is required - Just experience in comparing/remembering what your viewfinder/monitor showed compared to your resulting image back home.
Helps if you started photography in film before digital came around - It was a skill you simply naturally developed.
i use spot+evlock.
matrix/evalutive is a "rudimental" AI mode, the camera subdivide the image in zones and do a spot measure for each one, then use information like lens used, focal distance, scene color, point of af the try to understand what are you doing and use an huge database of case to find the correct exposure.
when someone said "i shot in manual" using matrix/evaltative make me laugh.
For me none of these metering modes really works well in video :/ I've stick to Manual exposure my shoots
the face priority off is the correct exposure. Black is black. look at the shirt
If I’m not mistaken is your intro sampled from a seventeen song
Also do you take pictures in any picture profile
I have a question I now have the Nikon d7000 and I want to buy de Sony a7iv do you have any tips
Do it now and don't wait any longer. Buy Sony glass, GM if possible.
Wait for A7v to be released then buy A7IV. Price will drop a bit especially if you buy it used. Use the savings to buy good glass.
I have a 7100 I've been waiting as long as I could to evolve from. I've been studying and comparing lenses and what not in the Sony world for years, waiting for the right time (and the budget to go "wild"). I accepted the fact that Nikon was way behind in mirror less and was fine going to the best.
That was until I toyed with the new Nikon zf and went reading everything about it to confirm my feeling. I bought it without even thinking and have no regrets whatsoever. Going from the d7100 to the zf felt like when I went from a cheap bridge to the 7100 many years back.
yeah see if you can get a good second hand deal :) or even moving to a A7CII can be a great upgrade
I use Multi metering
But if you have an evf won’t it just show you how the photo will turn out? The point of mirrorless cameras? Having all settings on manual nothing in auto or priority
Correct you need the monitor or EVF to show result or if DSLR use the ruler -3 0 +3 to get an idea of your exposure
Centre weighted suits me
❤
❤❤❤❤❤
My understanding of H+ is that it’s effectively a “protect the highlights” mode. This is my default setting for stage photography to keep Caucasian foreheads from blowing out. In those situations it becomes “ETTR Mode.”
Chouette Alors
This is not really needed if you are shooting every thing manually.
Oh ohh another what the "pro's" know video, what determines one being a pro? How about you "pro's" title them what experienced photographers know because i for one am far from being a pro but i have a lot of experience as a hobbyist
Good idea for “experienced”! Will try that next ☺️