Best half hour I could have spent to learn about this camera. In truth it was closer to 45 minutes for me since I kept pausing and scrolling thru the menus and replaying. Awesome video, I learned a ton. Thanks.
I actually do not agree with the back-button-focus segment of the video. I agree with what is said about recent years cameras having, generally, less of a general need for back button focus in some cases, however, there is a crucial reason for needing the back-button-focus, regardless of how, what, when and where we are shooting - and that is; focus control. Regardless of your field/specialty of work in photography, whether you shoot portraits, sports, motorsports, events, wildlife, you name it, you do not want your camera to re-focus every single time you press the shutter button regardless of us needing it to re-focus or not. Having control over focus or in other words being able to control when the camera will focus/re-focus, is, in my opinion, one of the most important, crucial features in photography, in general. Separating focus activation from the shutter button allows for so much more control, that not using it is a heavy 'handicap' and is useful in only a handful of very specific situations within a few very specific fields of photography. I shoot mainly portraits, social events and motorsports, I do also go through occasional expeditions for my documentary and wildlife work on the side... I have rarely been in a situation where I had to switch and turn the shutter button focus back on, opposed to having the focus activation separate from the shutter button. For the audience this video is targeting, it might be a good idea to recommend turning that AF-ON option on aka. separating focus activation from the shutter button! Anyhow, a nicely made, informative video, covering everything that needs to be covered, in just 25 minutes!
Also agree, it is a fairly big learning curve to move to back button focus but once done I wouldn't go back. Furthermore I now sign AE/L to the shutter button, meaning I can lock and recompose, separating exposure from focus. Absolutely wonderful to have this option in the z6ii
Once I heard that I came down to the comments to see if anyone felt the same way that I do and it is nice to not feel nuts. I love back button focusing, changed everything for me years ago and still not any scenario it wouldn't work. Awesome video though and helped with so much, enjoying my new Z6ii.
Being using Sony for five years and just bought a Z62, the menu is much simpler than Sony A7iv pretty easy to use and it has similar feel as Nikon DSLR which I used for many years. Your review is vey clear, it is very helpful, thank you.
Great overview. A few alternatives. I set WB to Cloudy 99% of time. If you only shoot raw, the WB is just a number in your shots' meta data and the camera does not have to analyze your image in order to guess the WB of the light in the scene. It only influences how Lr opens the file. Note that it results in sunset images looking warm and midsummer noon images look like the cool blue of a very hot day. If you shoot JPEG, that may be too much. The "Set picture control" profile may impact e.g. sharpening in video recording, even when you think you shoot "raw" movie. Like you, I discovered "Highlight" metering. Yes it looks, you'll feel, underexposed and I'd say we generally lose about 2 EV DR, but we have enough. My advice here is to not correct the image with the exposure sliders first, but to first lower the white point in Lr's Tone Curve (slide the top right function line horizontally left, retaining the straight line). This remaps the raw data to LR's internal gradation resolution and you retain full exposure slider range. The advantage of Highlight metering for, say, a wedding is you'll never have any part of a white dress blown out. You may want to watch out with black suits, though ;) I still shoot with AF activation by the AF-ON only option. It decouples focusing from the shutter button. To switch off the AE-Lock from the shutter button is valid in the case of Manual, yes, but in the case of Highlight-weighted Auto (A, or S) it may still be valid. In the past 55 years in photography, I always worked "manual" but Highlight changed that. I would therefor leave AF-ON on. Note, if you shoot Highlight, then you may get the same exposures in case of panning because you may keep the same, highest, highlight in the frame. I accidentally left the camera on auto exposure in a panorama shot and all exposures were identical - and had not expected this to happen, subconsciously.
Very good video! Just purchased my Z6II with the 24-200 lens a few days ago from B&H. In fact I still haven’t unboxed it yet. I wanted to get some insight or direction in setting it up before I got into it. Your video was very helpful and I know I’ll be referring to it as I set it up. However I will probably use your recommendations with an exception for a few. I like to leave my ISO on automatic as I’m more interested in the photographing end of it rather than dealing with camera settings. I take unposed people pictures which would require quick response. I also take landscapes and low light photos (concerts). I’m planning on also purchasing a wide angle lens, most likely the 20mm 1.8 Z lense.
Dan Watson, You have become better, and better, with each progressive video you publish. I am so very glad for you. You have become an ever increasing asset to the photographic world, and it is heartwarming to witness. Thank you for all that you do.
Could it be, he already was as good in the past, but had priorities elsewhere - earning money with photography and video making? And when YT became a bit of an income stream affording more time and resources to it?
23:00 Another benefit is that the picture style of the "always good exposed view" is almost always a fair amount more punchy, saturated and contrasty. Which in turn, makes the camera focus faster; because of the increased contrast. It's not a huge difference, but it's there . So if you are having troubles getting focus because of low contrast or low light, try disabling the setting "Apply settings to live view". But of course, remember to check your images.
All I need to do now is to buy a Z6 ll 😂 D850 + Grip + D5 battery first(gotta get that 9fps), and then Z6 ll rigged out with accessories and DJI Ronin gimbal for video. Why? Everyone's asking for video these days. Great video, helped me tweak some settings on my current DSLR, so thank you!
Great video, My Z6ii is arriving today, currently use a d500 and am I big Backbutton focus guy, I posted a question in a Facebook Nikon mirrorless group, and everyone disagrees with you on that one point you made, back button focus is great and if you prefer shooting af-c 90% of the time, bbf is so helpful. A lot of people still prefer it.
The Z6 actually focus better with live view assist off. I set an f1 button to switch it on for a preview. I do the same thing with different settings for a flash to check for ambient exposure. My f2 button is set for subject tracking. LowLight Af is not great. Shooting in AF-S with the light does help with live view assist off. You also used a space on the i-menu for the burst/timer. There is already a dedicated button for that and it can't be set to anything else
I also set the record button to change the AF modes since it doesn't record in photo mode. Using the the zoom feature on the ok button or another f button helps with critical focus. For photography. Setting A3 to quick and the G4 to 5 --> G5 to 1. This will make the AF a lot faster but may not be ideal for video where a slower pull might be more desirable.
Thorough and helpful, Dan. My comment (and question) is about focus. Honestly, I've never understood how adjusting the focus point in handheld shooting of still objects or scenes, either by pressing some (hopeful) point on the LCD screen or using the magnification button with back-button focus is the least bit efficient compared to simply setting up the camera for a small focus point in the center permanently (unless re-assigned in the menu, for example), using that point to focus, recomposing and pressing the shutter. It's old-fashioned, yes, but it's also simple and, with one exception*, works every time. It can be therefore be used every time, which further speeds up workflow. The one instance where this does not work is when you want to have something on the far side of the frame in focus at relatively short distances using wide apertures. Thing is, I can't seem to find way to fix that focus point on my Nikon Z7II. It has a bad habit of having moved to some random point in the frame without my having done anything deliberate to make that happen. By the way, am I correct that this camera, regardless of lens, cannot magnify the scene simply by rotating the manual focus ring on the lens? Using the AF-On button on the back of the camera is clumsy. Can you help?
I was at a wedding, and got terrible banding during the church ceremony with Electronic shutter. I think it also caps the higher shutter speeds. I just keep it on Mechanical shutter now. I use the Z6. I have the Z6II shipping out soon.
Yep, I definitely don't recommend using E shutter in bad lighting unless you are using a stacked cmos sensor camera like the Z9. Congrats on the new Z6II!
Wow, that was an amazing 1/2 hour. As I just bought my first mirrorless (Z6II), this was a ton of help. I also spent more than 1/2 hour because I followed along and paused the video to change the settings on my camera. Thank you. One aspect of mirrorless and face detection that I have not seen mentioned is what setting would I use for multiple people in a shot. Obviously, face detection wouldn't work. On my D750, I would just close the Aperture to something smaller than f5.6. What is the ideal AF Mode setting on a mirrorless? Thank you.
That's awesome! So glad it helped. So with multiple people, you can select which person you want the camera to track and do it that way or switch to a single point and pick a person to focus on. Keep in mind whatever you focus on, 2/3 of your depth of field will be behind the subject and 1/3 in front so you're usually better off focusing on someone closer to the camera. And yes, changing the aperture to something smaller like 5.6 will mean more depth will be in focus
So most modern mirrorless cameras have the ability to focus across the entire sensor with intelligent tracking so the "focus and recompose" thing is not needed like it was with DSLRs and just a few autofocus points. Also by focusing every time you take a picture you have a greater chance that the camera won't miss focus. There are still times where BBF is easier like maybe landscapes and macro where the subject is non moving and the camera is non moving. But if either the camera or a subject can move for sure I would focus every time you take a picture which means there really isn't any reason to decouple focus from exposure.
Thank you for this video. It explained so much. This is my first expensive camera. I've always been an "auto" mode picture shooter but I'm wanting to branch out and learn more manual controls. You explained everything so simple and well.
I came upon your channel when researching the Z6ii. Thank you for your review. Unfortunately (after real world testing) I sent mine back. I really wanted to love it but it wasn't meant to be. From an event shooters perspective there were just too many negatives. None of them "major" but for event shooting they were deal breakers. Pros: Amazing image quality out of the box for both still and video. Great ergonomics/weight/balance. The shutter is like butter (it just sounds solid). Good, fast (still) auto focus with reliable face detection. The kit lens is nice and sharp. The high ISO noise is amazingly low and provides amazing latitude. Great dynamic range. The body layout will be familiar to Nikon shooters. Cons: While the video quality is awesome the stabilization is (sorry to say this) way below what I expected. While the VR works well for stills it does not for video. Even walking as steady as I could there was still too much jump.The IBIS is excruciatingly horrible. It would jump around even when held steady. It's definitely something that needs to be addressed. When hand holding for video, the jello and distortion from the IBIS is unacceptable. I've never seen such erratic jumpiness. I was shocked by it. For me the viewfinder was not acceptable especially when shooting TTL for 30+ years. Sure you can brighten it and it gives you real time exposure feedback but for me the contrast is just not smooth enough and it looks like your viewing your monitor from 1 inch away. It's really tough on they eyes. I can't imagine shooting an 8-12 hour event times 50 a year. Mark my words that shooters using video screen viewfinders will definitely end up with eye issues from this type of view finder down the road. The back screen is nice and bright but it doesn't articulate which is an absolute must. In fact the screen doesn't even tilt 90° down like my D500. There are more minor issues but it's not my channel to elaborate. I just wanted to give a heads up to any professional event shooters. For stills absolutely go for it because the image quality is amazing but for video, unless you are shooting with a gimbal or tripod don't expect any time of usable stabilization body itself. For now I'm just sticking with my D500 and I just purchased a Panasonic HC-VX981 which shoots amazing video and has much, much better stabilization. I'm absolutely amazed that my Gopro 10 captures such amazing video which is rock steady and Nikon can't even come up with acceptable IBIS.
Great video, Dan. I just bought the 6ii to replace my D750 -- which is a great DSLR as we all know. BUT I'm finding that a Custom Control button assigned to Flash Off is no longer available? Having a Flash off button, in conjunction with U1 and U2 for flash and no flash settings, is a very handy option to have when shooting events.
Really glad I came across this video! Very helpful when it comes to setting up the Z6II - especially for someone (like me) who for the past decade relied entirely on the D7100's auto settings. Now, with the Z6II, I'm hoping to learn the camera's manual mode to up my photography game, so I especially appreciate the pro tips. Thank you, Dan!
Great video. I have had my Z6ii for a week. It has been a bigger learning curve than any other camera upgrade I have had in the past. Can you give me more details about switching my main command and sub-command dials? Thanks.
I just got a Z6ii and this was so incredible! I love the back button focus though 😘 Now I can’t wait to watch this again with my camera in front of me!
Awesome! Glad this helped and congrats on the Z6II! Lol, absolutely feel free to use back button focus if that works for you but with these new more advanced focus systems, I just find there are fewer times it helps. But there are still some like macro, product shots, and I'm sure a few others that BBF still works well haha
Very helpful and well presented. I've not done any serious photography in decades, since the days of film and my FM2. Honestly, I was a little intimidated at the prospect of setting this camera up right for me and this video was a giant help in getting me started. Thanks so much...
Interesting and helpful. I have been unsuccessful turning off the joystick. The frame is so small, I find myself moving the focus by accidentally hitting the joystick and it moves my focal point. Any tips?
Hey Dan, Great video and exactly what I needed. I noticed you mentioned not suggesting Back Button Focus. I recently upgraded to the Z6II after using the D750 since its launch, and I've been a huge fan of BBF. I've found it particularly valuable for focusing and reframing, as well as for capturing fast-moving objects or animals. I'm curious to understand your reasoning for why BBF might no longer be necessary with the Z6II. Could you explain more about this?
Absolutely. So there are situations where BBF is still good but they are typically tripod shots with non moving objects. The biggest difference with mirrorless cameras is now the camera processor sees what you see so the ability to track an object and continually focus is outstanding and the camera can focus all the way to the edge of the frame and this negates the biggest reason to shoot BBF for most photographers. Also, having the camera focus once for a set of images means if that single focus was not perfect, all the images will be out of focus but having the camera continuously focus for every shot means that sure, maybe the first image wasn't perfectly focused but most of them should be so there is a higher chance of keepers in my opinion. But for things like product shots and maybe landscape where you have a static non moving shot and are focusing on a particular location that isn't changing still is probably better with back button focus but if you're shooting a moving object, I would encourage not using BBF on mirrorless cameras with good focus systems
Loved the video Dan, thank you. Also liked the audio set up - your voice sounds clear, at a correct volume and ‘present’ in the video. Would love to know your set-up.
Hey Dan. . .Very well done! I'm not a pro, I'm an older (but not old) retired guy, but I've been shooting for years, put together a website of some of my photos and I'm just having a great time spending more time than I ever could before with photography. I'm on the verge of buying a Z6II, so thanks for this advice on setting it up. One question, I've also been shooting for years using back-button focus. Why should I stop that if I acquire the Z6II? Just wondering about specifically why it would no longer be useful. I enjoy shooting air shows, both static shots and planes flying, car shows, and sometimes a little sports. I'm so used to back-button I just wondered why I should give it up. Also, I've seen reviews that kind of put down Nikon and this camera. You seem like someone who would be honest about this. Would I be wasting my money with this camera instead of switching to Canon for example? I've shot Nikon for years and have several Nikon lenses I'd be expecting to continue to use. And the Z6II would let me get into a full-frame mirrorless camera at a reasonable price point. Just would like an honest opinion. Like I said, I'm no pro like yourself, but I've had a few inquiries about getting a print of a few of my images, so I'd like to go in the right direction with my next camera purchase to continue to improve my work. Thanks again, your videos are very helpful.
Hey! So I'll answer the 2nd question first. This was a very minor update for Nikon at a time where the market is super competitive. So, the R6 is definitely better with AF, shooting speed, and video but it does happen to be more expensive. I don't think it's a bad move to stay with Nikon but obviously the company is losing money and not producing the best cameras so if you were starting fresh, I'd probably say go Canon but if you already have Nikon lenses, the Z6II is still a good camera and cheaper than the canon. 2nd question...so there were several reasons that BACK BUTTON FOCUS made sense before but are no longer true. 1 is that DSLRs have all the focus points in the center so you often needed to focus/recompose & couldn't track across the frame so BBF was great for that. Well now, the focus system has focus points EVERYWHERE so you can just leave it in continuous and the camera will track everything. No need to focus/recompose or lock focus at all. So if you are just going to let the camera continuously focus, you might as well just link it to the shutter button! Also, with face/eye/animal/subject tracking, you will probably want AF engaged all the time and it's easier to do that when using the shutter button than your thumb. Also you can now remap the back focus button to something else so you get an extra custom button. There are still a few times BBF might be good like landscapes/macro, but for most uses the focus systems on these new mirrorless cameras make it so that you want continuous focus always engaged
@@learningcameras Thanks Dan. . .You know, you sounded so enthusiastic about the Z6II on your video about "The best full-frame camera you probably aren't buying" that I felt better about possibly staying with Nikon and getting a Z6II. The cost for a guy like me to get into full-frame and mirrorless just seems right for the capabilities that camera seems to offer. And thanks for the BBF explanation. . .makes sense. Thanks again for taking the time to respond!
Very good video but took a little time to get through it. I have a couple questions that seemed to change on my camera since the setup. I no longer have the image I want to take on my LCD screen but I have it in my viewfinder.I only get the menu on my screen in all modes. How can I change this? Also in M mode how can I change the settings for exposure? Also how do I set up the camera for spot metering and focusing? Love this camera so far! Certainly a learning curve to it.
This was great Dan, I learned a lot but was somewhat overwhelmed at times so I downloaded the video and will study it some more before going back and watching it again. I’ve owned dozens of Nikons and my latest is the Z6ii but still use the Z7, Z50 and may acquire a Z30. Right now my Grand daughter has my Z50 (and loves it) and when she gets back from college (UC Boulder) it’s going to my 8th grade grandson for his next “semester”. I have a feeling that the two will be fighting over the Z50, so if the grand daughter’s parents don’t buy her a Z50, I’ll get the Z30 for her and proceed with lending the Z50 to the grandson. Thanks again for this great video and please keep them coming. Tom KC3QAC
Nikon raw weak processing on Lightroom. I'm facing this colour issue with the D750 and Z5. Nikon must work for that. overall best camera for portrait Photography.
I noticed that you have a monitor there in your image: I’ll watch the video to see if it answers my question but otherwise, my Z6ii (or 7 also) will only drive the FEELWORLD 4K monitor while in playback (not really much of a “monitor”). During “taping” the error “No signal” appears. What am I doing wrong?
I have a few cameras from every brand so I can keep bringing out videos like this on different cameras. I used Nikon for all of my youtube videos for about a year but now I use the Sony A7SIII for most things video and the Sony A1 for most things photo as they tend to offer a bit more for my needs...definitely more expensive though
Hi Dan, I have the Z6ii and noticed a you were going through the menu, some of the options were not available to me. For instance I can't open my White Balance menu. Additionally, all of the RAW image quality options weren't visible. Any thoughts?
Disappointed by the aversion to back button focus. Once I found out that was a thing, I NEVER use shutter. Shutter button is for taking pics. None of this half press nonsense
You can still use it, but the intended purpose of bbf became virtually irrelevant after mirrorless camera AF became reliable unless you shoot non moving objects from a tripod or other very particular situations. But whatever makes you comfortable. It certainly doesn't make you a better or worse photographer so I absolutely don't care, I just don't teach people to use it anymore
Hi Dan, do you think it’s okay to use NIKKOR Z DX 16-50mm f/3.5-6.3 VR ?? Would the image quality still the same?? If ok, what would be your suggestion?
You can use that when shooting 4k60 since it forces you to use a crop but otherwise don't do it. Reducing this from full frame to APSC will absolutely hit the quality and isn't worth it. Get full frame lenses for sure
I just bought this camera and I have one sort of a dumb question. Do you switch off IBIS when on a tripod? Does this rule apply as we do with the VR on lenses? My dslr did not have IBIS so I am not sure how I should deal with this issue.
They would recommend you switch it off but I find these days the IBIS systems work absolutely fine on a tripod. Early on they could get confused but these days I rarely remember to turn it off and it hasn't been an issue
Hello sir, I'm a Nikon D750 user & also have many F mount lenses. Now I am planning to buy Nikon Z7ii camera. But confused about 2 lenses, Nikon 28-75 f2.8 and 24-70 f4 ?? Which is suitable for me ?? I'm a wedding photographer & never shoot video.. Please suggest me 🙏🙏🙏🙏
really good slow full intro to settings - I just ordered the Z7 II yesterday so this is good. I am a D850 photographer but these day the weight I carry on very long remote walks is becoming an issue to me. Looks like the menu system is very similar to the D850? Question though please. I back button focus and think I can do same with Z7 II; I also shoot manual - when I line up a shot I use focus peeking and also set up my camera to zoom in temporarily to see if my focus is pin sharp (can you consider explaining this set up at some point please?
You absolutely can back button focus using the Z7II although with these mirrorless cameras, you really don't need to since the focus points cover the entire sensor and they have AI algorithms for tracking objects, faces, eyes...things like that. On DSLRs BBF was pretty useful in most situations but I find it tends to slow you down on these newer mirrorless cameras except when dealing with non moving subjects
Hello All! May be it will be helpful for Nikon 7zii owners. I had problem "Lens initialization failed" during the first attachment of 24-200 Nikkor Z Lens to camera. It was solved when I turn camera on with the lens adjusted to the maximum focal length - 200 мм. It was my second lens of this type. The first has defect of small plastic ring with Nikkor name at the front of the lens - the ring was not fixed correctly - it jumps out - I exchanged it. The first lens also has initialization error - but it was gone by turn camera off and on as suggested.
Have you ever tried "interval timer shooting" on the Z6II? My setting is A, auto ISO up to 51200, over 1000 shots. I have a random issue, first 10 to 20 shots are overexposed then it shows exposure back to normal gradually.
Dan, I recently rented the D780 and Z6II. To my alarm, the Z6II seemed to have worse autofocus than the D780. The autofocus system on the Z series often gets confused and cant focus on whats right in front of it, or it back focuses. No such issue with the D780. This is really disappointing and probably why so many mirrorless users are hesitant to pick up a Nikon. Biggest problem seems to be in auto are AF (on the z series). Would like to know your opinion as to how this is even possible. Will a Z8 fix this?
Hey! So I'm definitely hoping the Z8 will introduce a new version of Nikon's autofocus system. I'm actually playing with the Z9 right now and it's great when it's on but it still gets confused more often than I would like. DSLRs were kind of dumb autofocus systems...they couldn't find an eye or pick a particular subject but whatever the AF point was centered on, it locked focus fast and accurately without confusion. It's been quite a few years since the Z6II which actually used the same AF system as the original Z6 just with a new processor so hopefully the Z8 will have some big overall improvements
thank you for this!! i noticed when I went into change my ISO (from the auto ISO screen), i set it to 100 and now I can't change it from 100 on camera. My camera is set to Manual mode so not sure why this is happening.. any ideas? thank you!
nice tuto. thanks for d9 trick !!! I was upset when flash is on camera, i cannot set exposure correctly with shutter speed because camera brightens scene and needed to turn flash off every time. I don't make studio and wanted to make street photo with z6ii (V1.4 !)+24-70 F/2.8 BBF (af-on), af-c, auto iso, mode A, auto area AF people and there are no yellow boxes on faces or eyes most of the time while my iphone 12 pro max detects anything even small on display. I don't find the reason, i tried with people close to me in a street, further, a group and sometimes a yellow box appears but i can't wait or rely on that. any idea because all tutos i see especially with V1.3 and V1.4, it seems that they can follow anyone in the street with eye detetction.
So typically that's what you would want. It basically turns your preview into a DSLR viewfinder. If you are using a flash just as a little fill, it probably wouldn't be an issue having your live view in manual but if your flash is your main light, your live view wouldn't be accurate anyway since the flash is your light and you likely wouldn't be able to see anything since most people underexpose natural light when shooting flash. I'm not sure if there is a way to turn this off but in most cases I'd recommend switching to that auto live view anyway.
this guy is obviously well established however the advice of setting your jpeg to a small file size "so you can see a preview" makes no sense. It's taking space for nothing?... jpegs are so compressed anyway they transfer fast and don't take up a lot of space. large raw and large jpeg you'll be fine.
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Best half hour I could have spent to learn about this camera. In truth it was closer to 45 minutes for me since I kept pausing and scrolling thru the menus and replaying. Awesome video, I learned a ton. Thanks.
Means a lot!!!
I actually do not agree with the back-button-focus segment of the video. I agree with what is said about recent years cameras having, generally, less of a general need for back button focus in some cases, however, there is a crucial reason for needing the back-button-focus, regardless of how, what, when and where we are shooting - and that is; focus control. Regardless of your field/specialty of work in photography, whether you shoot portraits, sports, motorsports, events, wildlife, you name it, you do not want your camera to re-focus every single time you press the shutter button regardless of us needing it to re-focus or not. Having control over focus or in other words being able to control when the camera will focus/re-focus, is, in my opinion, one of the most important, crucial features in photography, in general. Separating focus activation from the shutter button allows for so much more control, that not using it is a heavy 'handicap' and is useful in only a handful of very specific situations within a few very specific fields of photography. I shoot mainly portraits, social events and motorsports, I do also go through occasional expeditions for my documentary and wildlife work on the side... I have rarely been in a situation where I had to switch and turn the shutter button focus back on, opposed to having the focus activation separate from the shutter button. For the audience this video is targeting, it might be a good idea to recommend turning that AF-ON option on aka. separating focus activation from the shutter button! Anyhow, a nicely made, informative video, covering everything that needs to be covered, in just 25 minutes!
Totally agree 💯
Also agree, it is a fairly big learning curve to move to back button focus but once done I wouldn't go back. Furthermore I now sign AE/L to the shutter button, meaning I can lock and recompose, separating exposure from focus. Absolutely wonderful to have this option in the z6ii
I second ur comment. Totally agree
Once I heard that I came down to the comments to see if anyone felt the same way that I do and it is nice to not feel nuts. I love back button focusing, changed everything for me years ago and still not any scenario it wouldn't work. Awesome video though and helped with so much, enjoying my new Z6ii.
@@billamosphotography2235 haha same here. This is the only tutorial I've seen so far that goes against BBF
Being using Sony for five years and just bought a Z62, the menu is much simpler than Sony A7iv pretty easy to use and it has similar feel as Nikon DSLR which I used for many years. Your review is vey clear, it is very helpful, thank you.
Which one do you think has a better colour science?
Would you do a review of the Z6 II's Video settings? Would like to know the in-depth of it since I'm going to buy it in Aug/Sept this year😄
This was so helpful. I just got a Z6ii and loved your video. Just straight to the point without all the stupid jokes and gimmicks.
Appreciate that!
Great overview. A few alternatives. I set WB to Cloudy 99% of time. If you only shoot raw, the WB is just a number in your shots' meta data and the camera does not have to analyze your image in order to guess the WB of the light in the scene. It only influences how Lr opens the file. Note that it results in sunset images looking warm and midsummer noon images look like the cool blue of a very hot day. If you shoot JPEG, that may be too much.
The "Set picture control" profile may impact e.g. sharpening in video recording, even when you think you shoot "raw" movie.
Like you, I discovered "Highlight" metering. Yes it looks, you'll feel, underexposed and I'd say we generally lose about 2 EV DR, but we have enough. My advice here is to not correct the image with the exposure sliders first, but to first lower the white point in Lr's Tone Curve (slide the top right function line horizontally left, retaining the straight line). This remaps the raw data to LR's internal gradation resolution and you retain full exposure slider range. The advantage of Highlight metering for, say, a wedding is you'll never have any part of a white dress blown out. You may want to watch out with black suits, though ;)
I still shoot with AF activation by the AF-ON only option. It decouples focusing from the shutter button. To switch off the AE-Lock from the shutter button is valid in the case of Manual, yes, but in the case of Highlight-weighted Auto (A, or S) it may still be valid. In the past 55 years in photography, I always worked "manual" but Highlight changed that. I would therefor leave AF-ON on. Note, if you shoot Highlight, then you may get the same exposures in case of panning because you may keep the same, highest, highlight in the frame. I accidentally left the camera on auto exposure in a panorama shot and all exposures were identical - and had not expected this to happen, subconsciously.
Very good video! Just purchased my Z6II with the 24-200 lens a few days ago from B&H. In fact I still haven’t unboxed it yet. I wanted to get some insight or direction in setting it up before I got into it. Your video was very helpful and I know I’ll be referring to it as I set it up. However I will probably use your recommendations with an exception for a few. I like to leave my ISO on automatic as I’m more interested in the photographing end of it rather than dealing with camera settings. I take unposed people pictures which would require quick response. I also take landscapes and low light photos (concerts). I’m planning on also purchasing a wide angle lens, most likely the 20mm 1.8 Z lense.
Awesome! Enjoy the camera
Dan Watson,
You have become better, and better, with each progressive video you publish. I am so very glad for you. You have become an ever increasing asset to the photographic world, and it is heartwarming to witness. Thank you for all that you do.
Could it be, he already was as good in the past, but had priorities elsewhere - earning money with photography and video making? And when YT became a bit of an income stream affording more time and resources to it?
Means so much!!! Really appreciate that
@@jpdj2715 That's actually fairly accurate lol. I was working a full time job in addition to youtube/photography until very recently
23:00 Another benefit is that the picture style of the "always good exposed view" is almost always a fair amount more punchy, saturated and contrasty. Which in turn, makes the camera focus faster; because of the increased contrast. It's not a huge difference, but it's there . So if you are having troubles getting focus because of low contrast or low light, try disabling the setting "Apply settings to live view". But of course, remember to check your images.
All I need to do now is to buy a Z6 ll 😂
D850 + Grip + D5 battery first(gotta get that 9fps), and then Z6 ll rigged out with accessories and DJI Ronin gimbal for video. Why? Everyone's asking for video these days.
Great video, helped me tweak some settings on my current DSLR, so thank you!
Thank you! I bought a Z6II two days ago and this was VERY helpful!
Nice!!! Enjoy
THE BEST set up tutorial on RUclips, really appreciate the time you took to make and share, awesome.
Means a lot! Thanks Martyn
Great video, My Z6ii is arriving today, currently use a d500 and am I big Backbutton focus guy, I posted a question in a Facebook Nikon mirrorless group, and everyone disagrees with you on that one point you made, back button focus is great and if you prefer shooting af-c 90% of the time, bbf is so helpful. A lot of people still prefer it.
The Z6 actually focus better with live view assist off. I set an f1 button to switch it on for a preview. I do the same thing with different settings for a flash to check for ambient exposure. My f2 button is set for subject tracking.
LowLight Af is not great. Shooting in AF-S with the light does help with live view assist off.
You also used a space on the i-menu for the burst/timer. There is already a dedicated button for that and it can't be set to anything else
I also set the record button to change the AF modes since it doesn't record in photo mode. Using the the zoom feature on the ok button or another f button helps with critical focus.
For photography. Setting A3 to quick and the G4 to 5 --> G5 to 1. This will make the AF a lot faster but may not be ideal for video where a slower pull might be more desirable.
Thorough and helpful, Dan. My comment (and question) is about focus. Honestly, I've never understood how adjusting the focus point in handheld shooting of still objects or scenes, either by pressing some (hopeful) point on the LCD screen or using the magnification button with back-button focus is the least bit efficient compared to simply setting up the camera for a small focus point in the center permanently (unless re-assigned in the menu, for example), using that point to focus, recomposing and pressing the shutter. It's old-fashioned, yes, but it's also simple and, with one exception*, works every time. It can be therefore be used every time, which further speeds up workflow. The one instance where this does not work is when you want to have something on the far side of the frame in focus at relatively short distances using wide apertures. Thing is, I can't seem to find way to fix that focus point on my Nikon Z7II. It has a bad habit of having moved to some random point in the frame without my having done anything deliberate to make that happen. By the way, am I correct that this camera, regardless of lens, cannot magnify the scene simply by rotating the manual focus ring on the lens? Using the AF-On button on the back of the camera is clumsy. Can you help?
I was at a wedding, and got terrible banding during the church ceremony with Electronic shutter. I think it also caps the higher shutter speeds. I just keep it on Mechanical shutter now. I use the Z6. I have the Z6II shipping out soon.
Yep, I definitely don't recommend using E shutter in bad lighting unless you are using a stacked cmos sensor camera like the Z9. Congrats on the new Z6II!
Wow, that was an amazing 1/2 hour. As I just bought my first mirrorless (Z6II), this was a ton of help. I also spent more than 1/2 hour because I followed along and paused the video to change the settings on my camera. Thank you. One aspect of mirrorless and face detection that I have not seen mentioned is what setting would I use for multiple people in a shot. Obviously, face detection wouldn't work. On my D750, I would just close the Aperture to something smaller than f5.6. What is the ideal AF Mode setting on a mirrorless? Thank you.
That's awesome! So glad it helped. So with multiple people, you can select which person you want the camera to track and do it that way or switch to a single point and pick a person to focus on. Keep in mind whatever you focus on, 2/3 of your depth of field will be behind the subject and 1/3 in front so you're usually better off focusing on someone closer to the camera. And yes, changing the aperture to something smaller like 5.6 will mean more depth will be in focus
@learningcameras Thank you! Will be testing out group shots at a concert. No problem with my trusty D750, but will experiment with my Z6II.
Great video, thank you. Curious to hear your reason why we should not use back button focus on the newer cameras.
So most modern mirrorless cameras have the ability to focus across the entire sensor with intelligent tracking so the "focus and recompose" thing is not needed like it was with DSLRs and just a few autofocus points. Also by focusing every time you take a picture you have a greater chance that the camera won't miss focus. There are still times where BBF is easier like maybe landscapes and macro where the subject is non moving and the camera is non moving. But if either the camera or a subject can move for sure I would focus every time you take a picture which means there really isn't any reason to decouple focus from exposure.
Thank you for this video. It explained so much. This is my first expensive camera. I've always been an "auto" mode picture shooter but I'm wanting to branch out and learn more manual controls. You explained everything so simple and well.
Awesome!!! So glad this helped. Keep it up!
I got my Z6ii yesterday and this video popped up in my feed. Thanks a lot for this, helped me a lot!
You got a new subscriber too 😉
When the algorithm gets it right lol. Thanks!!!! Appreciate that
This is the tutorial I need, thanks for sharing.
Awesome! You bet
Hi Dan
Great run though, I'm just having my first coffee at 13:00
I just got my Z6ii two days ago, so this will be a great help
Awesome!!! Enjoy the Z6II
I came upon your channel when researching the Z6ii. Thank you for your review. Unfortunately (after real world testing) I sent mine back. I really wanted to love it but it wasn't meant to be. From an event shooters perspective there were just too many negatives. None of them "major" but for event shooting they were deal breakers. Pros: Amazing image quality out of the box for both still and video. Great ergonomics/weight/balance. The shutter is like butter (it just sounds solid). Good, fast (still) auto focus with reliable face detection. The kit lens is nice and sharp. The high ISO noise is amazingly low and provides amazing latitude. Great dynamic range. The body layout will be familiar to Nikon shooters. Cons: While the video quality is awesome the stabilization is (sorry to say this) way below what I expected. While the VR works well for stills it does not for video. Even walking as steady as I could there was still too much jump.The IBIS is excruciatingly horrible. It would jump around even when held steady. It's definitely something that needs to be addressed. When hand holding for video, the jello and distortion from the IBIS is unacceptable. I've never seen such erratic jumpiness. I was shocked by it. For me the viewfinder was not acceptable especially when shooting TTL for 30+ years. Sure you can brighten it and it gives you real time exposure feedback but for me the contrast is just not smooth enough and it looks like your viewing your monitor from 1 inch away. It's really tough on they eyes. I can't imagine shooting an 8-12 hour event times 50 a year. Mark my words that shooters using video screen viewfinders will definitely end up with eye issues from this type of view finder down the road. The back screen is nice and bright but it doesn't articulate which is an absolute must. In fact the screen doesn't even tilt 90° down like my D500. There are more minor issues but it's not my channel to elaborate. I just wanted to give a heads up to any professional event shooters. For stills absolutely go for it because the image quality is amazing but for video, unless you are shooting with a gimbal or tripod don't expect any time of usable stabilization body itself. For now I'm just sticking with my D500 and I just purchased a Panasonic HC-VX981 which shoots amazing video and has much, much better stabilization. I'm absolutely amazed that my Gopro 10 captures such amazing video which is rock steady and Nikon can't even come up with acceptable IBIS.
Great video, Dan. I just bought the 6ii to replace my D750 -- which is a great DSLR as we all know. BUT I'm finding that a Custom Control button assigned to Flash Off is no longer available? Having a Flash off button, in conjunction with U1 and U2 for flash and no flash settings, is a very handy option to have when shooting events.
Really glad I came across this video! Very helpful when it comes to setting up the Z6II - especially for someone (like me) who for the past decade relied entirely on the D7100's auto settings. Now, with the Z6II, I'm hoping to learn the camera's manual mode to up my photography game, so I especially appreciate the pro tips. Thank you, Dan!
Awesome!!! Glad this helped you out. Enjoy the Z6II!
Great video. I have had my Z6ii for a week. It has been a bigger learning curve than any other camera upgrade I have had in the past. Can you give me more details about switching my main command and sub-command dials? Thanks.
Fantastic Dan thank you. Will watch again next week when my Z6ii arrives! If you could do more on the video side that would be great?
Awesome!! I will do my best...they take a while to make lol but comments like these are the fuel to do it
I just got a Z6ii and this was so incredible! I love the back button focus though 😘 Now I can’t wait to watch this again with my camera in front of me!
Awesome! Glad this helped and congrats on the Z6II! Lol, absolutely feel free to use back button focus if that works for you but with these new more advanced focus systems, I just find there are fewer times it helps. But there are still some like macro, product shots, and I'm sure a few others that BBF still works well haha
Very helpful and well presented. I've not done any serious photography in decades, since the days of film and my FM2. Honestly, I was a little intimidated at the prospect of setting this camera up right for me and this video was a giant help in getting me started. Thanks so much...
Awesome! So glad it helped
Great job! Just got my Z-6 II and went through the settings with this video, very helpful! Thank you :)
Awesome!!! Glad it helped
Ditto!! Great job!
Interesting and helpful. I have been unsuccessful turning off the joystick. The frame is so small, I find myself moving the focus by accidentally hitting the joystick and it moves my focal point. Any tips?
An awesome feature rich video, very helpful and very much enjoyed. Superb! Thank you for taking the time Hudson, I will be following you from now on.
Appreciate that!!! Thanks Les
Picked up the Z6ii, with the kit lens, on a nice Black Friday-sale. Knew straight away where to go. Will accommodate my D750 nicely.
Thanks for the video my z6 ii arrives Friday
Hey Dan,
Great video and exactly what I needed. I noticed you mentioned not suggesting Back Button Focus. I recently upgraded to the Z6II after using the D750 since its launch, and I've been a huge fan of BBF. I've found it particularly valuable for focusing and reframing, as well as for capturing fast-moving objects or animals.
I'm curious to understand your reasoning for why BBF might no longer be necessary with the Z6II. Could you explain more about this?
Absolutely. So there are situations where BBF is still good but they are typically tripod shots with non moving objects. The biggest difference with mirrorless cameras is now the camera processor sees what you see so the ability to track an object and continually focus is outstanding and the camera can focus all the way to the edge of the frame and this negates the biggest reason to shoot BBF for most photographers. Also, having the camera focus once for a set of images means if that single focus was not perfect, all the images will be out of focus but having the camera continuously focus for every shot means that sure, maybe the first image wasn't perfectly focused but most of them should be so there is a higher chance of keepers in my opinion. But for things like product shots and maybe landscape where you have a static non moving shot and are focusing on a particular location that isn't changing still is probably better with back button focus but if you're shooting a moving object, I would encourage not using BBF on mirrorless cameras with good focus systems
Very informative video thanks a million just set up my Z7ii today
Awesome!!! Enjoy it
Loved the video Dan, thank you. Also liked the audio set up - your voice sounds clear, at a correct volume and ‘present’ in the video. Would love to know your set-up.
Appreciate that! I'm using the Rode NTG5 shotgun mic bhpho.to/3zrwXzL and have that going into an Tascam recorder for audio
Thanks for this! Still helpful in 2024
@@valairsoft awesome! Glad it helped
My wife bought me one for xmas and this was VERY helpful!!
Hey Dan. . .Very well done! I'm not a pro, I'm an older (but not old) retired guy, but I've been shooting for years, put together a website of some of my photos and I'm just having a great time spending more time than I ever could before with photography. I'm on the verge of buying a Z6II, so thanks for this advice on setting it up. One question, I've also been shooting for years using back-button focus. Why should I stop that if I acquire the Z6II? Just wondering about specifically why it would no longer be useful. I enjoy shooting air shows, both static shots and planes flying, car shows, and sometimes a little sports. I'm so used to back-button I just wondered why I should give it up. Also, I've seen reviews that kind of put down Nikon and this camera. You seem like someone who would be honest about this. Would I be wasting my money with this camera instead of switching to Canon for example? I've shot Nikon for years and have several Nikon lenses I'd be expecting to continue to use. And the Z6II would let me get into a full-frame mirrorless camera at a reasonable price point. Just would like an honest opinion. Like I said, I'm no pro like yourself, but I've had a few inquiries about getting a print of a few of my images, so I'd like to go in the right direction with my next camera purchase to continue to improve my work. Thanks again, your videos are very helpful.
Hey! So I'll answer the 2nd question first. This was a very minor update for Nikon at a time where the market is super competitive. So, the R6 is definitely better with AF, shooting speed, and video but it does happen to be more expensive. I don't think it's a bad move to stay with Nikon but obviously the company is losing money and not producing the best cameras so if you were starting fresh, I'd probably say go Canon but if you already have Nikon lenses, the Z6II is still a good camera and cheaper than the canon.
2nd question...so there were several reasons that BACK BUTTON FOCUS made sense before but are no longer true. 1 is that DSLRs have all the focus points in the center so you often needed to focus/recompose & couldn't track across the frame so BBF was great for that. Well now, the focus system has focus points EVERYWHERE so you can just leave it in continuous and the camera will track everything. No need to focus/recompose or lock focus at all. So if you are just going to let the camera continuously focus, you might as well just link it to the shutter button! Also, with face/eye/animal/subject tracking, you will probably want AF engaged all the time and it's easier to do that when using the shutter button than your thumb. Also you can now remap the back focus button to something else so you get an extra custom button. There are still a few times BBF might be good like landscapes/macro, but for most uses the focus systems on these new mirrorless cameras make it so that you want continuous focus always engaged
@@learningcameras Thanks Dan. . .You know, you sounded so enthusiastic about the Z6II on your video about "The best full-frame camera you probably aren't buying" that I felt better about possibly staying with Nikon and getting a Z6II. The cost for a guy like me to get into full-frame and mirrorless just seems right for the capabilities that camera seems to offer. And thanks for the BBF explanation. . .makes sense. Thanks again for taking the time to respond!
@@BluesImprov You bet!!
That was great Dan. I just received my Nikon Z6 II. This was very helpful. Thank you>
Awesome!!! Thanks Chuck
Nikon please allow a 1080p backup file at least - even if its only on 1080p mode.
Bonjour Dan, very interesting video. Have you also noticed that the switch on/off is a bit harder to switch on than off on the Z6II ? thank yoy
Helpful. Thanks. I am also coming from a D610. There are a few buttons on the back that you didn't touch on. What does the little joystick do??
Very good video but took a little time to get through it. I have a couple questions that seemed to change on my camera since the setup. I no longer have the image I want to take on my LCD screen but I have it in my viewfinder.I only get the menu on my screen in all modes. How can I change this? Also in M mode how can I change the settings for exposure? Also how do I set up the camera for spot metering and focusing? Love this camera so far! Certainly a learning curve to it.
Great video Dan, Helped me tremendously on setting up my Z6ii !!!!
Great video. I appreciate the explanation for each setting. Do you have one on the video settings?
Thanks! Not yet unfortunately...but maybe I need to
@@learningcameras please do!!!
Thanks, Dan, thank you so much for this! May I know how I can see the monitor changing live while I change the settings (aperture, shutter, and Iso)?
Video setup settings would be great 🤞
I love that of you could do the video settings, please
This was great Dan, I learned a lot but was somewhat overwhelmed at times so I downloaded the video and will study it some more before going back and watching it again. I’ve owned dozens of Nikons and my latest is the Z6ii but still use the Z7, Z50 and may acquire a Z30. Right now my Grand daughter has my Z50 (and loves it) and when she gets back from college (UC Boulder) it’s going to my 8th grade grandson for his next “semester”. I have a feeling that the two will be fighting over the Z50, so if the grand daughter’s parents don’t buy her a Z50, I’ll get the Z30 for her and proceed with lending the Z50 to the grandson. Thanks again for this great video and please keep them coming. Tom KC3QAC
Awesome!!! Thanks so much Thomas...glad it helped
Well done Dan! Appreciate the breakdown. Thank you.
Nikon raw weak processing on Lightroom. I'm facing this colour issue with the D750 and Z5. Nikon must work for that. overall best camera for portrait Photography.
Thanks very much for the video Dan. Easy to understand and your presentation style was great.
how about how to setup Nikon d850 or is it the same thing ish? thank you for making this video it has helped me a lot !!!!
There is a lot that will be similar but since the Z6II is mirrorless and the D850 is a DSLR, there's still quite a bit that is different
This tutorial was excellent Dan! Thank you!
Awesome! Thanks Chuck
I noticed that you have a monitor there in your image: I’ll watch the video to see if it answers my question but otherwise, my Z6ii (or 7 also) will only drive the FEELWORLD 4K monitor while in playback (not really much of a “monitor”). During “taping” the error “No signal” appears. What am I doing wrong?
Thank you for your video. Would be interested in your setup for video.
Thanks!!! Will look into it. Most of my subscribers are Sony shooters so was feeling out just how many Nikon video shooters were out there haha
Thanks I am all set now
Do you have a video why not to use back button focus?
❤ beautiful 🤩 !! Do you always use Nikon camera 📸?
I have a few cameras from every brand so I can keep bringing out videos like this on different cameras. I used Nikon for all of my youtube videos for about a year but now I use the Sony A7SIII for most things video and the Sony A1 for most things photo as they tend to offer a bit more for my needs...definitely more expensive though
If you are using back button focus and you take your z6ii out if continuous mode, does your back button still focus?
Hi Dan, I have the Z6ii and noticed a you were going through the menu, some of the options were not available to me. For instance I can't open my White Balance menu. Additionally, all of the RAW image quality options weren't visible. Any thoughts?
Disappointed by the aversion to back button focus. Once I found out that was a thing, I NEVER use shutter. Shutter button is for taking pics. None of this half press nonsense
You can still use it, but the intended purpose of bbf became virtually irrelevant after mirrorless camera AF became reliable unless you shoot non moving objects from a tripod or other very particular situations. But whatever makes you comfortable. It certainly doesn't make you a better or worse photographer so I absolutely don't care, I just don't teach people to use it anymore
Great video Dan. Very informative. Thanks
you flew through this very quickly!
Hi Dan,
do you think it’s okay to use NIKKOR Z DX 16-50mm f/3.5-6.3 VR ?? Would the image quality still the same?? If ok, what would be your suggestion?
You can use that when shooting 4k60 since it forces you to use a crop but otherwise don't do it. Reducing this from full frame to APSC will absolutely hit the quality and isn't worth it. Get full frame lenses for sure
@@learningcameras thank you 👍🏼
I just bought this camera and I have one sort of a dumb question. Do you switch off IBIS when on a tripod? Does this rule apply as we do with the VR on lenses? My dslr did not have IBIS so I am not sure how I should deal with this issue.
They would recommend you switch it off but I find these days the IBIS systems work absolutely fine on a tripod. Early on they could get confused but these days I rarely remember to turn it off and it hasn't been an issue
Hello sir,
I'm a Nikon D750 user & also have many F mount lenses.
Now I am planning to buy Nikon Z7ii camera. But confused about 2 lenses, Nikon 28-75 f2.8 and 24-70 f4 ??
Which is suitable for me ??
I'm a wedding photographer & never shoot video..
Please suggest me 🙏🙏🙏🙏
Personally I'd go for the wider aperture and get the F2.8 lens so if you can't afford the 24-70 F2.8, the 28-75 F2.8 would be my 2nd choice
I was disappointed to see that I can’t set the Z7-2 to mechanical shutter with the 24-120 Z lens. Thanks for the video
really good slow full intro to settings - I just ordered the Z7 II yesterday so this is good. I am a D850 photographer but these day the weight I carry on very long remote walks is becoming an issue to me. Looks like the menu system is very similar to the D850? Question though please. I back button focus and think I can do same with Z7 II; I also shoot manual - when I line up a shot I use focus peeking and also set up my camera to zoom in temporarily to see if my focus is pin sharp (can you consider explaining this set up at some point please?
You absolutely can back button focus using the Z7II although with these mirrorless cameras, you really don't need to since the focus points cover the entire sensor and they have AI algorithms for tracking objects, faces, eyes...things like that. On DSLRs BBF was pretty useful in most situations but I find it tends to slow you down on these newer mirrorless cameras except when dealing with non moving subjects
@@learningcameras thank very much for your help here
I have heard that Z cameras will not use Nikon SB-910 flash.
Hello All! May be it will be helpful for Nikon 7zii owners. I had problem "Lens initialization failed" during the first attachment of 24-200 Nikkor Z Lens to camera. It was solved when I turn camera on with the lens adjusted to the maximum focal length - 200 мм. It was my second lens of this type. The first has defect of small plastic ring with Nikkor name at the front of the lens - the ring was not fixed correctly - it jumps out - I exchanged it. The first lens also has initialization error - but it was gone by turn camera off and on as suggested.
Next stop using an flash with the Nikon Z6II. Can you point me to some information?
Do you have a specific video for the Z7ii like this one?
No but virtually every setting on the Z7II is identical
For some reason White Balance and Picture Control are greyed out in my Z6ii menu. I have firmware C: 1.50 and LF 1.00
Thank you so much!
Just here waiting for the NEW gimbal review coming July 1st but dope setup.
Hahahaha...why are you so sure I have something coming out then lol 😉
@@learningcameras Mr. Dan Watson you have something up your sleeve 😂😂😂
Maybe... Lol
@@learningcameras 😂😂😂
So helpful thank you
Awesome!!! Thanks Daniel
Great!Just what I need.Thanks & have subscribed.
Have you ever tried "interval timer shooting" on the Z6II? My setting is A, auto ISO up to 51200, over 1000 shots. I have a random issue, first 10 to 20 shots are overexposed then it shows exposure back to normal gradually.
I have but I always shoot manual when doing this. I've never tried it using auto exposure
Hi Dan how do you get you menu up the side of your camera ?
Dan, I recently rented the D780 and Z6II. To my alarm, the Z6II seemed to have worse autofocus than the D780. The autofocus system on the Z series often gets confused and cant focus on whats right in front of it, or it back focuses. No such issue with the D780. This is really disappointing and probably why so many mirrorless users are hesitant to pick up a Nikon. Biggest problem seems to be in auto are AF (on the z series). Would like to know your opinion as to how this is even possible. Will a Z8 fix this?
Hey! So I'm definitely hoping the Z8 will introduce a new version of Nikon's autofocus system. I'm actually playing with the Z9 right now and it's great when it's on but it still gets confused more often than I would like. DSLRs were kind of dumb autofocus systems...they couldn't find an eye or pick a particular subject but whatever the AF point was centered on, it locked focus fast and accurately without confusion. It's been quite a few years since the Z6II which actually used the same AF system as the original Z6 just with a new processor so hopefully the Z8 will have some big overall improvements
Look on here on how to set up the autofocus and update the camera first.
thank you for this!! i noticed when I went into change my ISO (from the auto ISO screen), i set it to 100 and now I can't change it from 100 on camera. My camera is set to Manual mode so not sure why this is happening.. any ideas? thank you!
No idea...I shoot manual and I can change mine no problem. Not sure why it would be locked in. Try going in to the menu to change the ISO that way
Great Video Dan. Thank you for sharing
Which tripod, or stand is the camera sitting on in this video?
Looks like the tripod base from my Ronin gimbal.
thanks, Lot @Dan Watson
What's the difference between JPEG normal and JPEG normal(star)?
nice tuto. thanks for d9 trick !!! I was upset when flash is on camera, i cannot set exposure correctly with shutter speed because camera brightens scene and needed to turn flash off every time.
I don't make studio and wanted to make street photo with z6ii (V1.4 !)+24-70 F/2.8 BBF (af-on), af-c, auto iso, mode A, auto area AF people and there are no yellow boxes on faces or eyes most of the time while my iphone 12 pro max detects anything even small on display. I don't find the reason, i tried with people close to me in a street, further, a group and sometimes a yellow box appears but i can't wait or rely on that. any idea because all tutos i see especially with V1.3 and V1.4, it seems that they can follow anyone in the street with eye detetction.
Really helpful…thank you
do you have a dedicated video for flash on the z6?
I don't for flash because it's so dependent on the type of flash you actually use and the situation you're using it in
@@learningcameras can you give examples? please
Love the vid!
Great explanations. Thanks
how to activate nikon z5 flash controll?
I noticed that when I use flash, my live view automatically goes to auto even though I have my live view settings set to On. ???
So typically that's what you would want. It basically turns your preview into a DSLR viewfinder. If you are using a flash just as a little fill, it probably wouldn't be an issue having your live view in manual but if your flash is your main light, your live view wouldn't be accurate anyway since the flash is your light and you likely wouldn't be able to see anything since most people underexpose natural light when shooting flash. I'm not sure if there is a way to turn this off but in most cases I'd recommend switching to that auto live view anyway.
Hola. Como se desactiva el modo live view en la z6?!
Thanks a lot！
great! thank you!!!
Can you connect an SSD to the Z 6 II?
Not directly. You can attach an SSD to an external recorder like the Ninja V and record HDMI out of the camera to the recorder
No, this is not what I want to know, LOL. But, I want more (hehe)
this guy is obviously well established however the advice of setting your jpeg to a small file size "so you can see a preview" makes no sense. It's taking space for nothing?... jpegs are so compressed anyway they transfer fast and don't take up a lot of space. large raw and large jpeg you'll be fine.