Of all of the photography channels we follow our studio finds you to be the most reputable. No BS like Polin and Northrup especially when it comes to Nikon products. We appreciate the honesty.
Thanks for the kind words, I do my best. I assume that other RUclips creators are doing their best also and they believe what they are saying, even if others don't agree.
Thank you Maarten. As a new shooter your tutorials is what I need. I just bought the Z6II recently and yes, the various menu options is really ovewhelming indeed. So I will take my time to learn one item at a time. Nobody explains the functions like you do and for that, you're the best online teacher for my Z6II.
@Hisham. I film a lot with the Z6 II and some AF-S 200-400 VR II with the FTZ. My experience is that when you are following a moving object, that the camera produces some micro focus jumps all the time. Soon I will go for a native z lens when it will enter the market. Think these old lenses were never made for making video I guess?
After two years of Nikon Z7 ownership, I'm now making a concentrated effort to better understand and use autofocus. Thank you for this GREAT tutorial. I've reviewed it a number of times, and I still learn each time. As you suggested, I'm working to build my muscle memory too.
Wow! Learned quite a bit about my camera now. I thought you looked like Martin Scorsese in the beginning, but now I know that you actually are the Scorsese of photography. Thank you!
Well I asked Maarten if it was possible to update his previous excellent tutorial on Z6 autofocus, firmware 2.0, to include the changes in firmware 3 and he replied within a few hours to point me to this video! This is another excellent tutorial and the best I have seen on the Nikon Z series. Maarten's channel is one of my top 3 on photography. Can I say far better than a Mr Jared P! Thanks Maarten.
Bought a Z6 Mark II some days back and have been looking at many videos regarding focus settings. This one has been really much useful for me and its well organised. Thanks a lot Maarten. Appreciate the efforts you have put in here.
Great summary! I may have missed it in your video, but many reviewers are suggesting assigning Fn1 (front of Z body) to initiate the tracking (works as a toggle to turn tracking on and off). Also liberating like assigning focus to the lens function button...
I hope you have hundreds of folks hurrying to take advantage of the free subscription offer -- it's a terrific bargain. I'm glad I did back the last time you had a sale. Have learned a lot since then ;-).
Thank you for this very helpful video. Clear, concise and well explained. I'm bookmarking this so I can come back to it. After years of using Nikon DSLR cameras, using the mirrorless Z 6ll is a whole new experience and somewhat daunting, and you have helped me ease into it. Thank you so much :)
Thank you - this does help a lot. Slowly switching over to Z mount (Z6), and some things are different from what I'm used to. I appreciate you doing this.
This Man has probably forgotten more than all of us collectively know! It would be a real treat to han* out and do some shuttebugging with Maarten! Very thorough and informative! Thank You Sir! 👏🏻👍😁✌🏻
As always, a fantastic video. I think you are one of the best instructors on the net. Focusing is one of my biggest problems with the Z6. I've been using Nikon since I'm 18 and I'm now 71 and a professional photographer. I know how to shoot and I know the focus menus I thought, but keep watching more videos to see what I'm doing wrong. I shoot a lot in restaurants or night clubs where there is dim light, certainly not dark but dimmer than normal. I usually use flash. The focus always searches. When I use my 28-300 it constantly searches focus terribly. I have NEVER had this problem with my D-750, D-300 or D-800. What am I having this problem? No one seems to know, not Nikon for sure. I sent the camera back to them before the warranty ended and they checked it out and it still does the same thing. If anyone can enlighten me on this please do. Also, that green focus assist light for low light is useless. They have disabled the infrared light beam coming from the flash unit which always gave me accurate focus in low light situations. What the heck were they thinking? At least give us a choice whether to use the infrared or green assist light. To eliminate it completely is just stupid. Maarten, if you are reading this, please shed some light on this if you can. Email me at ithoughtaboutyou@gmail.com. Thanks, Tony
Thanks, I appreciate your kind words. I do have little experience with flash photography, so not sure I can help - however it's nice to know I have your confidence. I assume you're using the 28-300 with the FTZ adapter, and appreciate that there is no Z mount equivalent. Let's hope that a native lens would not have the same issues. I have no suggestions to improve this. The green autofocus light seems to work for me - although I've not been shooting in the kinds of situations you describe. If it's working nicely with the D750, then I'd probably stay with that. Otherwise, would manual focus work? Sorry that this is probably not much help.
I just got my hands on a Z50 and I have to say that your videos are definitely clear and well delivered. Pacing is also pretty good. Thanks and great job.
Neatly described, Martin. My comment (and question) is about focus, specifically "focus and recompose." Honestly, I've never understood how adjusting the focus point in handheld shooting of still objects or scenes, either by pressing some (hopeful) point on the LCD screen or using the AF-On button or back-button focus is the least bit efficient compared to simply setting up the camera for a small focus point in the center PERMANENTLY (unless re-assigned in the menu, for example, when you need to track something), using that point to focus, recomposing and pressing the shutter. It's old-fashioned, yes, but it's also simple and, with one exception*, works every time. It can be therefore be used every time, which further speeds up workflow. The one instance where this does not work is when you want to have something on the far side of the frame in focus at relatively short distances using wide apertures. Thing is, I can't seem to find way to fix that focus point on my Nikon Z7II. It has a bad habit of having moved to some random point in the frame without my having done anything deliberate to make that happen. By the way, am I correct that this camera, regardless of lens, cannot magnify the scene simply by rotating the manual focus ring on the lens? Using the AF-On button on the back of the camera is clumsy. Can you help?
Thanks for your kind words. I think that there's more than one exception. And with the latest cameras (like the Z7II) using auto with wide area nearly always get the right subject, particularly for faces (as long as face/eye is on). Nikon, Fujifilm and Sony all excel with that technique. Yes, the random reset problem. Turn off touch, as that's usually the culprit. You somehow accidentally touch the screen and it sets to that point. There's no auto expanded view (that I've found anyway) but the magnify keys are second best and provide the punch in for focus. Of course, if your spot is in the right place, the bottom left corner is a very useful MP assist.
@@MaartenHeilbron Thanks Maarten for you most prompt reply. I'm gratified you took the trouble. I will try to sort out how to "turn off touch." You are probably right about its being the primary culprit. You are also correct that the auto with wide area nails it nearly all the time. However, there's something aesthetically irksome about having a gadget making decisions for me that I should be making myself. In any case, I tend to shoot citiscapes and landscapes requiring maximum depth of field that, in turn, requires me to set the focus point at a particular point into the frame that the camera couldn't possibly recognize on its own. Handheld photography demands that I make use of every available tool for optimum focus (and exposure), which means as high a shutter speed as possible with the lowest ISO. In the old days I would simply set focus using the hash marks on the lens barrel, which does the job neatly assuming that the markings are correct. Some modern lenses are hit and miss in this respect, as I'm sure you know. Correct exposure is no longer as important as it once was. In fact, I set the exposure manually for a given range of shots and adjust in post, something you can't do with focus. Your comment that I could rely on my spot being in the right place is what I have come to use -- that plus matrix exposure when I'm not suing full manual.
@@leonardnorwitz3537 I make it a habit to read and reply to all messages. Thanks for sharing your thoughts. Always nice to hear from a photographer who knows how to manage the situation to their advantage.
Excellent tutorial, Maarten. Very organised and concise language. I like the way you describe the when and where for the AF modes and AF-area selection. However, I am still not clear the difference between subject tracking with AF-S which "tracks" the subject and AF-C which "continuously" focuses on the subject. Is it not that tracking the subject means continuously focusing on the subject? Plse help to explain elaborate more.
Thank you again Maarten for another excellent video, it is a genuine pleasure to get excellent informative content without the ridiculous clickbait alas so popular with many other photography channels
Great video! One thing to mention, the af focus speed on video makes a hugeeee difference, but not when tapping the screen. If you have af-f for example, and move your box over the back object, it will take its time and slowly fade out to the back object
Can you make the best setings tutorial for Nikon D5 for video and photography. How do you think the Nikon D5 is compared to the Nikon Z7 ll? in terms of video, autofocus for video and photogeafia, etc. Thank you. Greetings from a photographer from Serbia
Maarten, this is just the confirmation I needed prior to my used Z7 arriving tomorrow. I’m only a hobby landscape photographer but rationalised the Z7 over the Z6 for the crop factor to save on buying many lenses. I’d love to know more of the FN button and U1, U2 & U3 settings you use to get me off to a flying start. A really helpful video even 2 years later. Many thanks.
Agreed, I think the Z7 remains a very good choice (unless the Z9 is in your budget). At the moment (as I don’t have a Z7) no plans to produce more content.
thank you for the video presentation, very informative and well presented. Can I ask you something ..... on my Z6, which I am still checking out to make sure it is not faulty, there are no dots on the screen around the central square when I set it to "Dynamic Area Autofocus". I am running formware 3.2 and I am using back button autofocus. Do you know how I can re-enable the dots in the display? Thanks.
Thanks for the kind words. I"m trying to understand the dots you refer to. Could you please indicate the time stamp in this video where you see them? Also, what will the dots help you achieve?
@@MaartenHeilbron It isn't in your video, but I still asked you because you are knowledgeable. However I have now found the solution so I will share it here in case anyone else is in confusion ............... to reactivate the dots ..a10: Focus Point Options > Dynamic-area AF assist > ON (or a9 on the Z6 II). The dots are secondary focus points meant to hold on to your subject if it moves out of the central focussing square.
@@MaartenHeilbron My apologies for not seeing that ..I searched twice for that. Yes, at 8:14. You do actually provide the solution yourself at 13.32, I just didn't get it. I've now finally got to grips with the wide range of focus options.
@@AjanProvocateur Glad to hear you have a solution. And for reminding me that sometimes I go too quickly and gloss over items that should be more detailed.
Very useful! I’m struggling with my z5!!! I want to focus on more than just the eye!!! Sometimes a lot of squares come up and then when I press ok it lets me choose where I want to focus. Help!!! I’m more interested in active sports shoots! Should I turn eye tracking off!?
Thanks Buddy!! As always, so well put together. I truly wish that the AF (speed) would actually pull focus slower or faster - would be so great for short-film shoots when it’s tossed on my gimbal and don’t feel like hooking up the entire FF system. However, one thing that I found works about 90% of the time on my Z6; which is to push and HOLD on the lcd and it seems to slow down pulling focus between subjects... Great job bud! And to whoever down-voted this video: You’re a pompous ass just having a bad day. Keep up the good work Maarten!!!!
Right. I did wonder if I was mis-interpreting and it's only meant for following objects, not racking focus. Still, would be a nice setting to have. Thanks for the tip, I'll try that. And, of course, thanks for the kind words.
Great video! Thanks! Will have to watch this several times as I just got my Z7II and am still exploring this. I have a few questions/thoughts concerning the Z7II... Maybe you can tell also...what are the optimum iso settings for the z7II? I find it has quite a bit of noise even from 800 Iso and up. I actually still use my F-mount lenses with the ftz adapter. Just rented a Z lens 24-70 S 2.8 today to see the differences between this new z lens and the 24-70 Af-s G 2.8 Ed lens. Even though the z-lens is a bit sharper, I dont think it is that much different in sharpness. How about the difference between the Z 70-200 2.8 and the 70-200 Af-s VRII? I couldn't rent that lens yet to compare. Is that worth upgrading to? Sorry, lot of questions....:-)
I can't tell you what the optimum setting is, because only you can determine your tolerance for noise for the images you create and the situations where they will be displayed. I haven't been able to compare those two.
Nice and thorough. Oddly, I swear I used to have auto closest subject in video mode which may've gone away on the upgrade. Am I crazy or is it called something I'm not finding now?
I figured out how to lock the focus point on the Z9. Can't find it on Z7 menu. I don't think it's there. When I shoot back button focus I like to keep it in the same place - sort of upper right - I just move the frame slightly to put the red square over eyes or whatever I want in focus, press the focus button, re-compose and shoot. very fast and secure method for most non-sports shots. But it's easy to move it with the that toggle switch just below and then you have to find it again. Squirrelly.
@@MaartenHeilbron Yes I just got a Z5 and though I'm a long time Nikon DSLR shooter I felt kinda lost. Watching your video makes the transition easier.
Hi Maarten! Super helpful. Just to clarify, when you are talking about single point AF-S, you talk about moving the focus point off centre if you need to focus on an object that's off centre. However, couldn't you also just soft-press and then move to the side as you said previously? It seems these are two ways to do the same thing?
Yes, but photographers like to have options and don't all use the same paradigms for composition and focus. For instance, if your suject is predictably off to one side, the soft press and compose technique can inhibit speed and creativity.
Hi , can you give me recommendation for lenses for portrait , events .please . Planing to buy z7 .basically I am going to do parties, couple shoots in outside .
Thank you so much Maarten for your helpful and thorough videos. One thing, my focus shift shooting on my z6ii is greyed out, and I've seemed to have tried everything. Suggestions?
When all else fails, reset usually works. However, as stated in the manual (pl.238) it is not compatible with a number of features including self time and HDR. It might be worth checking that list.
@@MaartenHeilbron Right after I made the comment Maarten, I found that when I "un-tethered", it would go off grey...weird! I might try it with no card, and straight tethered?
Thanks Maarten, really useful run through. I wonder why Nikon couldn’t add the green obtain focus colour change in firmware update? Also primarily shooting landscapes, I find when I’m zooming in on manual focus to be quite tricky so rely on the auto and dot symbol. It just doesn’t feel as good as my old D750 in this particular aspect though I wouldn’t go back.
Hello! Thank you for this. I have a z 6ii and can’t find a way to activate eye focus unless in an auto. On my Sony, you can select eyes if they appear even when in flexible spot, or small pinpoint, etc. Must I chose between full auto with eyes, or selectable focus and forego eye tracking? Thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it. Anne is a very useful prop, as she seems to engage the eye/face detect on nearly all cameras and sits still more nicely than most models.
Great clip as always. Thank you. Question, in my Canon R5 I can touch and drag focus on the lcd while looking via view finder and even define a part of the lcd as a relative focusing area. Is there a similar option in the Nikon Z6 II? Thank you.
Hey Very informative & extensive tutorial from beginning to end! I was totally tuned in and learned a couple new tips. I am a z5 shooter for about a month now & what I have not seen any videos on yet is how to take a good group shot with these cameras 😕.... I think im pretty well versed in how cameras work however Im new to mirrorless & idk what focus mode to use for groups... Auto AF just jumps everywhere, and forget about face detect because everyone else will be out of focus 🤦🏾? Could you respond or better yet make a Pt. 2 vid on this matter? Thank you!
Interesting request. Let me see if I can borrow a camera to do that. However, as long as the subjects are fairly close to the same distance from the camera, even if only a few are detected, they should all be in focus.
@@MaartenHeilbron Thanks a lot ! I always forget to Close the aperture a couple stops to get more of a group in focus. I just figured there'd be an easier or better method using the Z system.
I would think the only way to get group shots is to make sure you stop down to 5.6 or so. I love shooting wide open but that just won’t work no matter how advanced the system is.
Excellent video Martin. I’m struggling with purchasing a Z6 at this point as I am used to the D750, which I love. What focus area would you suggest for group shots?
That depends on the distance of the various members from the camera. I would either select wide area with face detect on, or single point to make sure the most important person is in focus.
nice tuto. can you please make a similar one with Z6II, explaining how to play with red and yellow boxes and tracking subject when AF is lost. Lot of tutos on youtube showing how bad is AF used on skateboarders, bicycler, moving portrait,... these people often come from the amazing sony a7m3 and expect z6II does the same job, which will require some firmware updates from Nikon. so, today we need to help AF when it is lost with the available tools provided by Z6II.
Love your videos ... been very helpful understanding features of my new Z7. But wish you could explain more about what Nikon calls "focus distance indicator" when using manual focusing ... is this just qualitative information or can it be used for more precise information like confirming you have good depth of field. Haven't found much discussion of this in the Nikon manual other than what it is called ... but note that you refer to this as a "ruler". Thanks for the help!
Only one manufacturer (Fujifilm) adds depth of field information to the manual focus distance display (I find "ruler" easier) neither are very accurate. If you are trying to establish the depth of field for a given aperture and distance, you'll need to use some trial and error. The focus bracket feature might help.
Thank you. I got a Z5 which is more fun and enjoyable to shoot with than the Sonys I used in the past 5 years, even if Sony’s AF seem to have more options. With Nikon why not always use wide area with lock on square? You get face/eye AF and can always use the lock on square to select and recompose. Faster than moving a af point with the joystick. Also is there a way to assign a button to turn on and off quickly face AF? Sometimes I need to photograph people holding an object in front of them.
@@MaartenHeilbron Thank you. I do not see the option to assign a button to switch Face AF on and off. I can assign a button to switch Focus mode, but I would like to stay in Wide Area AF with Lock On AF, without face recognition. That is the only downside I find in Nikon, with Sony I can use Lock On with different AF Area modes. The Z5 Lock on is limited to wide area. I find it faster to focus with the Lock On square and recompose, the square will stay on the subject for multiple shots. Using the thumbstick to move the AF square area is slower.
@@stefpix My apologies - just scrolled through the list and didn't find what I thought was there. Yes, you can activate it with WideArea AF - but then you can't select WideArea AF without face. Subject tracking is available as a custom setting, but I do appreciate that it doesn't behave like Sony.
@@MaartenHeilbron Thank you for checking. Overall it feels very refreshing shooting with Nikon than with Sony. The EVF quality and the humane menu system and customizable buttons, the grip. Quality of life elements that many RUclips reviewers who pan Nikon seem to not consider. A FW update just to toggle Face AF off and on would be my nitpicking satisfaction, and a smaller square for lock on AF. What makes you appreciate that it does not behave like Sony? PS the video and raw files seem to have nice natural colors straight out of the camera compared to Sony.
@@stefpix Thanks for adding these notes. As for OOC images - cameras have many settings from white balance to colour profiles that if you find the default not to your liking, you can easily modify it. That said, it's nice not to have to do anything.
Thanks Maarten. More good info. I find that the Z6 focuses very well for video with native Z lenses, but tends to micro focus a bit with adapted lenses. Don't know if others have found the same. Also, any plans for a video on prores raw shooting and if it's worth getting the upgrade? Would be interested in your thoughts on when this is beneficial and when it's not really needed.
Thanks for your kind words. I have the feeling that ProRes RAW is a little too esoteric for the RUclips audience, but I am intrigued to try it out and see.
Should I use dynamic area AF with Continuous AF to shoot unpredictable action? Or should I use the white "ok" box to track people in Continuous? Would love your suggestions!
Hi Maarten, I linked your video to mine as I had some autofocus issues with the Z50 :) Hope you don't mind. Still even with your tips, it feels like these cameras need more some effort to get the focus correctly. First time buyers/owners might get a bit dissapointed about this.
Thanks a lot for your tutorials! I wonder if it 'd be possible to focus "manually" without using a focus ring, e.g. by assigning some custom buttons to adjust the focus distance? I shoot macro video underwater, and do not have access to focus ring. I can't use a sleigh(?) either to slightly move the camera on tripod (no sleigh for underwater exists). Any ideas?
@@MaartenHeilbron Thanks for your answer! Autofocus is not always good - underwater motives are often difficult to separate from background, as a tiny shrimp sitting on anemone, constantly moving with current and waves. Tripod + manual focus is the best option in this situation - maybe I will build some kind of cradle/sleigh.
Hello, how are you? I am from Uruguay and I wanted to ask you a question. I have a Z50 to take a picture in a fast sport I would have to use the a3 menu as shown in the value 1. To speed up the release of the focus? Thank you very much
Fine, thanks. The number of focus points only makes it faster to select a point, it will not make the focus engine work more quickly. Please say hello to all my friends in Uruguay.
Hey Maarten, Great video. I have one question, What is the focus mode and area mode that you usually use? and what is the best way to quickly switch to face/eye detect mode from the ususal mode?
Of all of the photography channels we follow our studio finds you to be the most reputable. No BS like Polin and Northrup especially when it comes to Nikon products. We appreciate the honesty.
Thanks for the kind words, I do my best. I assume that other RUclips creators are doing their best also and they believe what they are saying, even if others don't agree.
@@MaartenHeilbron Well that is polite and politically correct of you to say. Listen to how nasty their message is and then you'll understand.👍🏼✌🏾👏🏼
@@forcedmedia It seems to me that it's you that's being nasty.
Martin, it’s always a pleasure watching and listening to your well-organized presentations. Thanks again for another winner.
My pleasure! Thank you for your kind words.
This is one of the clearest explanations I've seen on RUclips. I'm brand new to mirrorless and my Z7 ii and this video was super helpful. Thank you!
It's always a pleasure to read notes like yours - knowing that I've been able to help others with their photography journey.
Thank you Maarten. As a new shooter your tutorials is what I need. I just bought the Z6II recently and yes, the various menu options is really ovewhelming indeed. So I will take my time to learn one item at a time. Nobody explains the functions like you do and for that, you're the best online teacher for my Z6II.
Thank you, that's very kind. I hope to be able to borrow a Z6II soon to do a review.
@Hisham. I film a lot with the Z6 II and some AF-S 200-400 VR II with the FTZ. My experience is that when you are following a moving object, that the camera produces some micro focus jumps all the time. Soon I will go for a native z lens when it will enter the market. Think these old lenses were never made for making video I guess?
Why other youtubers don't do it like you.... Very informative. Straight to the point. No silly jokes. No waste of time.
Thank you a million
It was a pleasure to read your kind words.
After two years of Nikon Z7 ownership, I'm now making a concentrated effort to better understand and use autofocus. Thank you for this GREAT tutorial. I've reviewed it a number of times, and I still learn each time. As you suggested, I'm working to build my muscle memory too.
Always nice to know my videos help viewers improve their skills. Thanks for your kind words.
Best video for focusing settings on Nikon's Z series. It took me 3 minutes to find what i needed. Thank you so much.
Always nice to know that my videos are helpful.
Wow! Learned quite a bit about my camera now. I thought you looked like Martin Scorsese in the beginning, but now I know that you actually are the Scorsese of photography. Thank you!
Mr. Scorsese and I have similar tastes in eyebrows, however he is a better director. Thanks for your kind words.
Just got my z50 a week ago. Im uberly excited. Thank u for this tutorial
Always nice to read that my work is appreciated, thanks!!!
Thank you so much for this tutorial. You explained it so well, covering all settings without rushing through the options.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for taking the time to comment.
The best video about Nikon z camera setting I have ever seen. Thanks for your presentation.
Wow, thanks! Always nice to hear from a viewer who appreciates my work.
You have the best video tutorials I've seen! Thank you so much
It was a pleasure to read your kind words, thanks very much.
Well I asked Maarten if it was possible to update his previous excellent tutorial on Z6 autofocus, firmware 2.0, to include the changes in firmware 3 and he replied within a few hours to point me to this video! This is another excellent tutorial and the best I have seen on the Nikon Z series. Maarten's channel is one of my top 3 on photography. Can I say far better than a Mr Jared P! Thanks Maarten.
A pleasure to read your very kind words, thanks for taking the time to comment, I'm glad to hear you found what you were looking for.
This is a really great channel, I appreciate how in depth and professional it is!
I appreciate that! Thanks for posting your kind words.
All the details, for free ! We are lucky to have photo channels like yours... Thanks a thousand time for your excellent job. Cheers.
So nice of you to comment, appreciated.
Bought a Z6 Mark II some days back and have been looking at many videos regarding focus settings. This one has been really much useful for me and its well organised. Thanks a lot Maarten. Appreciate the efforts you have put in here.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Great summary! I may have missed it in your video, but many reviewers are suggesting assigning Fn1 (front of Z body) to initiate the tracking (works as a toggle to turn tracking on and off). Also liberating like assigning focus to the lens function button...
That too is a good suggestion, thanks for the kind words, thanks for sharing your tip.
Thanks Maarten for the clear instructions, I have made the necessary focus settings on my Z6 and eager to test this out.
Always nice to know my work is appreciated, thanks for the kind words.
Just got my Z7ii, and by far your video was the most informative, thanks!
Great to hear! Always nice to know my videos are appreciated.
Thank you so much for this very clear and easy-to-follow explanation. Much appreciated!
Glad it was helpful! Always a pleasure to read kind words from my viewers.
Amazing video!! Harder than you would think to find such a clear tutorial for new photographers.
Thanks, it's always nice to read that my videos are useful and appreciated.
I hope you have hundreds of folks hurrying to take advantage of the free subscription offer -- it's a terrific bargain. I'm glad I did back the last time you had a sale. Have learned a lot since then ;-).
I hope so too, thanks for your support.
Thank you for this very helpful video. Clear, concise and well explained. I'm bookmarking this so I can come back to it. After years of using Nikon DSLR cameras, using the mirrorless Z 6ll is a whole new experience and somewhat daunting, and you have helped me ease into it. Thank you so much :)
Always nice to read that my videos are providing assistance to my fellow photographers.
Thank you - this does help a lot. Slowly switching over to Z mount (Z6), and some things are different from what I'm used to. I appreciate you doing this.
Glad it helped! Thanks for taking the time to comment with your kind words.
This Man has probably forgotten more than all of us collectively know! It would be a real treat to han* out and do some shuttebugging with Maarten! Very thorough and informative!
Thank You Sir! 👏🏻👍😁✌🏻
Let me know when you're heading to Toronto and we'll do it. Thanks for the kind words.
@@MaartenHeilbron You’re Very Welcome!
Maarten, you have answered every question I had about focusing on this camera...I am grateful that I found you. Thank you kindly!
Glad it was helpful! Always nice to know my videos are useful and appreciated - thanks!!!
As always, a fantastic video. I think you are one of the best instructors on the net.
Focusing is one of my biggest problems with the Z6. I've been using Nikon since I'm 18 and I'm now 71 and a professional photographer. I know how to shoot and I know the focus menus I thought, but keep watching more videos to see what I'm doing wrong. I shoot a lot in restaurants or night clubs where there is dim light, certainly not dark but dimmer than normal. I usually use flash. The focus always searches. When I use my 28-300 it constantly searches focus terribly. I have NEVER had this problem with my D-750, D-300 or D-800. What am I having this problem? No one seems to know, not Nikon for sure. I sent the camera back to them before the warranty ended and they checked it out and it still does the same thing. If anyone can enlighten me on this please do. Also, that green focus assist light for low light is useless. They have disabled the infrared light beam coming from the flash unit which always gave me accurate focus in low light situations. What the heck were they thinking? At least give us a choice whether to use the infrared or green assist light. To eliminate it completely is just stupid. Maarten, if you are reading this, please shed some light on this if you can. Email me at ithoughtaboutyou@gmail.com. Thanks, Tony
Thanks, I appreciate your kind words.
I do have little experience with flash photography, so not sure I can help - however it's nice to know I have your confidence.
I assume you're using the 28-300 with the FTZ adapter, and appreciate that there is no Z mount equivalent. Let's hope that a native lens would not have the same issues.
I have no suggestions to improve this. The green autofocus light seems to work for me - although I've not been shooting in the kinds of situations you describe.
If it's working nicely with the D750, then I'd probably stay with that. Otherwise, would manual focus work?
Sorry that this is probably not much help.
Thank you. This one goes in my reference file while I learn my Z7’s controls.
Always nice to read that my videos are useful and appreciated.
I just got my hands on a Z50 and I have to say that your videos are definitely clear and well delivered. Pacing is also pretty good. Thanks and great job.
What a pleasure to read your kind words, thanks for taking the time to comment.
Thank you for a great video on the menu system. Outstanding delivery and organization.
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for your kind words.
Very helpful and practical advice - I thought I had mainly mastered the menu but this video has taken me another step further. Thanks Maarten.
Great to hear! Always nice to know that viewers appreciate my work.
Thank you Maarten. I'll have to catch up with the rest of your sessions.
Please do, thanks for the kind words.
Yet another very clear and informative review, great stuff Maarten, thank you!
Glad you enjoyed it, always nice to read kind words from appreciative viewers.
Thanks a lot for this helpful presentation of all the new features coming from a DSLR!
My pleasure! Always nice to read that my videos are appreciated.
I love your tutorial: it's to the point, clear, and pleasant!
Thanks so much! Always nice to hear from a viewer who appreciates my work.
Neatly described, Martin. My comment (and question) is about focus, specifically "focus and recompose." Honestly, I've never understood how adjusting the focus point in handheld shooting of still objects or scenes, either by pressing some (hopeful) point on the LCD screen or using the AF-On button or back-button focus is the least bit efficient compared to simply setting up the camera for a small focus point in the center PERMANENTLY (unless re-assigned in the menu, for example, when you need to track something), using that point to focus, recomposing and pressing the shutter. It's old-fashioned, yes, but it's also simple and, with one exception*, works every time. It can be therefore be used every time, which further speeds up workflow. The one instance where this does not work is when you want to have something on the far side of the frame in focus at relatively short distances using wide apertures. Thing is, I can't seem to find way to fix that focus point on my Nikon Z7II. It has a bad habit of having moved to some random point in the frame without my having done anything deliberate to make that happen. By the way, am I correct that this camera, regardless of lens, cannot magnify the scene simply by rotating the manual focus ring on the lens? Using the AF-On button on the back of the camera is clumsy. Can you help?
Thanks for your kind words. I think that there's more than one exception. And with the latest cameras (like the Z7II) using auto with wide area nearly always get the right subject, particularly for faces (as long as face/eye is on). Nikon, Fujifilm and Sony all excel with that technique.
Yes, the random reset problem. Turn off touch, as that's usually the culprit. You somehow accidentally touch the screen and it sets to that point.
There's no auto expanded view (that I've found anyway) but the magnify keys are second best and provide the punch in for focus. Of course, if your spot is in the right place, the bottom left corner is a very useful MP assist.
@@MaartenHeilbron Thanks Maarten for you most prompt reply. I'm gratified you took the trouble. I will try to sort out how to "turn off touch." You are probably right about its being the primary culprit. You are also correct that the auto with wide area nails it nearly all the time. However, there's something aesthetically irksome about having a gadget making decisions for me that I should be making myself. In any case, I tend to shoot citiscapes and landscapes requiring maximum depth of field that, in turn, requires me to set the focus point at a particular point into the frame that the camera couldn't possibly recognize on its own. Handheld photography demands that I make use of every available tool for optimum focus (and exposure), which means as high a shutter speed as possible with the lowest ISO. In the old days I would simply set focus using the hash marks on the lens barrel, which does the job neatly assuming that the markings are correct. Some modern lenses are hit and miss in this respect, as I'm sure you know. Correct exposure is no longer as important as it once was. In fact, I set the exposure manually for a given range of shots and adjust in post, something you can't do with focus. Your comment that I could rely on my spot being in the right place is what I have come to use -- that plus matrix exposure when I'm not suing full manual.
@@leonardnorwitz3537 I make it a habit to read and reply to all messages. Thanks for sharing your thoughts. Always nice to hear from a photographer who knows how to manage the situation to their advantage.
Excellent tutorial, Maarten. Very organised and concise language. I like the way you describe the when and where for the AF modes and AF-area selection. However, I am still not clear the difference between subject tracking with AF-S which "tracks" the subject and AF-C which "continuously" focuses on the subject. Is it not that tracking the subject means continuously focusing on the subject? Plse help to explain elaborate more.
AFG-S and subject tracking is not a workable combination. Thanks for your kind words.
best instructional video i’ve seen - by a mile. thank you
Wow, thanks! Always nice to know that viewers appreciate my work.
Thank you for this very informative video, I was very confused until I saw this. Thanks again!
You're very welcome! It's always nice to know that my videos are useful and appreciated
Thank you again Maarten for another excellent video, it is a genuine pleasure to get excellent informative content without the ridiculous clickbait alas so popular with many other photography channels
Thanks for the kind words, clickbait is (sadly) popular because it mostly works.
Holy shit! This is the best tutorial I've seen on this camera! Thank you!
I appreciate your kind sentiment, thanks!
Love your work Maarten, love your talking pace and style supported by great visuals.
Many thanks! So nice to read your kind words.
Great video! One thing to mention, the af focus speed on video makes a hugeeee difference, but not when tapping the screen. If you have af-f for example, and move your box over the back object, it will take its time and slowly fade out to the back object
Thanks for the tip! Always nice to have active viewers adding good info, appreciated.
@@MaartenHeilbron no problem! I just got my Z6ii and noticed that it didn’t affect the speed sometimes and wondered why, but it depends on what mode.
Finally got my Z6 back from repair...this was helpful in re-learning my camera!
Glad to hear you're getting some inspiration from my videos, thanks for your kind words.
Thank you for your video. Good explanation on nikon z focusing techniques. Making gonna upgrade to Z system.
Thanks, I appreciate your kind words.
Maarten Great video you always make your videos perfect to understand no matter what level of a photographer you are Thank You
My pleasure! So nice to read your kind words, they are appreciated.
Very nice presentation. The order of topics was excellent. Was planning on Father’s Day...may need to delay until market recovers a bit. Stay well.
Thanks for your kind words and wishes. These are difficult times, and I hope that you and yours remain safe and healthy.
My God. Very well explained and easy to follow about Nikon Z focus system. :). Thanks 👍
Glad it was helpful! I do appreciate it when my viewers comment with such kind words.
Can you make the best setings tutorial for Nikon D5 for video and photography. How do you think the Nikon D5 is compared to the Nikon Z7 ll? in terms of video, autofocus for video and photogeafia, etc. Thank you. Greetings from a photographer from Serbia
I no longer have access to a D5 to produce that video, and I've also not been able to borrow a Z7 II from Nikon Canada.
Maarten, this is just the confirmation I needed prior to my used Z7 arriving tomorrow. I’m only a hobby landscape photographer but rationalised the Z7 over the Z6 for the crop factor to save on buying many lenses. I’d love to know more of the FN button and U1, U2 & U3 settings you use to get me off to a flying start. A really helpful video even 2 years later. Many thanks.
Agreed, I think the Z7 remains a very good choice (unless the Z9 is in your budget). At the moment (as I don’t have a Z7) no plans to produce more content.
thank you for the video presentation, very informative and well presented. Can I ask you something ..... on my Z6, which I am still checking out to make sure it is not faulty, there are no dots on the screen around the central square when I set it to "Dynamic Area Autofocus". I am running formware 3.2 and I am using back button autofocus. Do you know how I can re-enable the dots in the display? Thanks.
Thanks for the kind words. I"m trying to understand the dots you refer to. Could you please indicate the time stamp in this video where you see them? Also, what will the dots help you achieve?
@@MaartenHeilbron It isn't in your video, but I still asked you because you are knowledgeable. However I have now found the solution so I will share it here in case anyone else is in confusion ............... to reactivate the dots ..a10: Focus Point Options > Dynamic-area AF assist > ON (or a9 on the Z6 II).
The dots are secondary focus points meant to hold on to your subject if it moves out of the central focussing square.
@@AjanProvocateur Oh. You mean the "dots" at 8:14?
@@MaartenHeilbron My apologies for not seeing that ..I searched twice for that. Yes, at 8:14. You do actually provide the solution yourself at 13.32, I just didn't get it. I've now finally got to grips with the wide range of focus options.
@@AjanProvocateur Glad to hear you have a solution. And for reminding me that sometimes I go too quickly and gloss over items that should be more detailed.
This video is just absolutely amazing! Thank you! I learnt a lot!
Always nice to read that my videos are helpful and appreciated. Thanks!!
Very useful! I’m struggling with my z5!!! I want to focus on more than just the eye!!! Sometimes a lot of squares come up and then when I press ok it lets me choose where I want to focus. Help!!! I’m more interested in active sports shoots! Should I turn eye tracking off!?
Yes, eye-detect is probably not helping. Continuous AF is recommended with tracking (but you'll need to spend some time familiarizing).
Great video, thanks Maarten! Yor tips works mosty on my Z5 as well.
Great to hear! Thanks for the kind words.
Thanks Buddy!! As always, so well put together. I truly wish that the AF (speed) would actually pull focus slower or faster - would be so great for short-film shoots when it’s tossed on my gimbal and don’t feel like hooking up the entire FF system. However, one thing that I found works about 90% of the time on my Z6; which is to push and HOLD on the lcd and it seems to slow down pulling focus between subjects... Great job bud! And to whoever down-voted this video: You’re a pompous ass just having a bad day. Keep up the good work Maarten!!!!
Right. I did wonder if I was mis-interpreting and it's only meant for following objects, not racking focus. Still, would be a nice setting to have. Thanks for the tip, I'll try that. And, of course, thanks for the kind words.
Thank you! This was really useful! I can't find my dynamic focusing in AF-C on my z30 in filming mode. Is there an option to be shown/hidden?
Thanks for your kind words. In video you should use Full time AF.
@@MaartenHeilbron Thank you so much! I still don't see the dynamic focusing in AF-F in filming mode. I see it only in the picture mode.
Sometimes you may need to touch the subject you want in focus.
@@MaartenHeilbron Thank you a lot. I will try this!
Great video! Thanks! Will have to watch this several times as I just got my Z7II and am still exploring this. I have a few questions/thoughts concerning the Z7II...
Maybe you can tell also...what are the optimum iso settings for the z7II? I find it has quite a bit of noise even from 800 Iso and up. I actually still use my F-mount lenses with the ftz adapter. Just rented a Z lens 24-70 S 2.8 today to see the differences between this new z lens and the 24-70 Af-s G 2.8 Ed lens. Even though the z-lens is a bit sharper, I dont think it is that much different in sharpness. How about the difference between the Z 70-200 2.8 and the 70-200 Af-s VRII? I couldn't rent that lens yet to compare. Is that worth upgrading to? Sorry, lot of questions....:-)
I can't tell you what the optimum setting is, because only you can determine your tolerance for noise for the images you create and the situations where they will be displayed.
I haven't been able to compare those two.
Thank you Maarten for your precise descriptions easily understandable
Tkcare David-:)
Always nice to read that viewers appreciate my work, thanks!
Thank you very much for transferring your knowledge! One of the best videos on this topic!
Thanks for your very kind words, nice to read that my work is appreciated.
Nice and thorough. Oddly, I swear I used to have auto closest subject in video mode which may've gone away on the upgrade. Am I crazy or is it called something I'm not finding now?
It sounds very familiar, but you're right - I don't see it either.
Maarten, you might wish to make the point that much of this also applies to the 780 when using the rear screen.
Cheers
John Boyd
Thanks, yes, that's a good point.
I figured out how to lock the focus point on the Z9. Can't find it on Z7 menu. I don't think it's there. When I shoot back button focus I like to keep it in the same place - sort of upper right - I just move the frame slightly to put the red square over eyes or whatever I want in focus, press the focus button, re-compose and shoot. very fast and secure method for most non-sports shots. But it's easy to move it with the that toggle switch just below and then you have to find it again. Squirrelly.
I'm appreciating your advanced tips, thanks!!
I really enjoyed your explanation. It's very helpful!
Glad you enjoyed it! A pleasure to read your kind words.
@@MaartenHeilbron Yes I just got a Z5 and though I'm a long time Nikon DSLR shooter I felt kinda lost. Watching your video makes the transition easier.
Always nice to read that my videos provide useful guidance to my viewers. Thanks for commenting.
Thanks a lot for such great explanation, it was really helpful
I'm always pleased to read that my viewers appreciate my videos, thanks!!
Hello. Best settings for bird photography with z6. Thanks a lot
The highest ISO you can tolerate, the widest aperture available and the fastest shutter speed to properly expose the image.
Hi Martin! Great video!! What if I want the entire scene to be on sharp focus?
Thanks for the kind words. Get lots of light, close the aperture as far as possible with your subjects as far away as possible.
thats nice video most informative, plz suggest me outdoor standerd picture profile setting for z6
Thanks for the kind words. What are the defaults missing for you?
Great video, thanks for sharing your knowledge!
Always my pleasure, thanks for commenting.
Huge thanks for Going into such details. Loved it.
Always nice to have my detailed work appreciated, thanks for your kind words.
Thanks! I learned a lot from you and can use my new Nikon Z6ii much better now!
Great to hear! Always nice to know my videos are appreciated.
Your video is amazing! Thanks for making time.
My pleasure! Thanks for your kind words.
thanks for your video.is necessary to calibrate lens on new Nikon Z6 II ?
It should not be. However, if you see an issue or a problem, you should.
@@MaartenHeilbron THANKS !
Hi Maarten! Super helpful. Just to clarify, when you are talking about single point AF-S, you talk about moving the focus point off centre if you need to focus on an object that's off centre. However, couldn't you also just soft-press and then move to the side as you said previously? It seems these are two ways to do the same thing?
Yes, but photographers like to have options and don't all use the same paradigms for composition and focus. For instance, if your suject is predictably off to one side, the soft press and compose technique can inhibit speed and creativity.
@@MaartenHeilbron Thank you :)
Hi , can you give me recommendation for lenses for portrait , events .please . Planing to buy z7 .basically I am going to do parties, couple shoots in outside .
The 24-70 F2.8 should get you through most situations. The 85mm is an excellent portrait lens.
@@MaartenHeilbron thanks
I like your Nikon info, thanks.
Thanks, I appreciate the kind words.
Thank you so much Maarten for your helpful and thorough videos. One thing, my focus shift shooting on my z6ii is greyed out, and I've seemed to have tried everything. Suggestions?
When all else fails, reset usually works. However, as stated in the manual (pl.238) it is not compatible with a number of features including self time and HDR. It might be worth checking that list.
@@MaartenHeilbron Right after I made the comment Maarten, I found that when I "un-tethered", it would go off grey...weird! I might try it with no card, and straight tethered?
@@dalesteven1 Glad to hear you have a solution.
Thanks Maarten, really useful run through. I wonder why Nikon couldn’t add the green obtain focus colour change in firmware update? Also primarily shooting landscapes, I find when I’m zooming in on manual focus to be quite tricky so rely on the auto and dot symbol. It just doesn’t feel as good as my old D750 in this particular aspect though I wouldn’t go back.
Thanks for the kind words. And for sharing your observations.
I enjoyed your video. I want to create a "painterly" effect. How do I turn off only taking a foto that is in focus.
Use manual focus if you need to take out of focus images.
Hello! Thank you for this. I have a z 6ii and can’t find a way to activate eye focus unless in an auto. On my Sony, you can select eyes if they appear even when in flexible spot, or small pinpoint, etc. Must I chose between full auto with eyes, or selectable focus and forego eye tracking? Thank you!
I haven't reviewed the Z6 II, so not sure about how this feature is currently implemented.
I love a Canadian's using an Anne Shirley doll. :-) Thanks for an interesting video and keep up the good work.
Glad you enjoyed it. Anne is a very useful prop, as she seems to engage the eye/face detect on nearly all cameras and sits still more nicely than most models.
Nice video. I have one doubt custom setting menu - AF-C is set to release and AF-s is set to focus. Is it correct or need to change ?
Those are the settings I use. Thanks for your kind words.
Great clip as always. Thank you. Question, in my Canon R5 I can touch and drag focus on the lcd while looking via view finder and even define a part of the lcd as a relative focusing area.
Is there a similar option in the Nikon Z6 II? Thank you.
There is no touch pad option on the Z6 II.
Thank you, one of the best "camera help" videos
I appreciate your kind words, thanks.
Hey Very informative & extensive tutorial from beginning to end! I was totally tuned in and learned a couple new tips. I am a z5 shooter for about a month now & what I have not seen any videos on yet is how to take a good group shot with these cameras 😕.... I think im pretty well versed in how cameras work however Im new to mirrorless & idk what focus mode to use for groups... Auto AF just jumps everywhere, and forget about face detect because everyone else will be out of focus 🤦🏾? Could you respond or better yet make a Pt. 2 vid on this matter? Thank you!
Interesting request. Let me see if I can borrow a camera to do that. However, as long as the subjects are fairly close to the same distance from the camera, even if only a few are detected, they should all be in focus.
@@MaartenHeilbron Thanks a lot ! I always forget to Close the aperture a couple stops to get more of a group in focus. I just figured there'd be an easier or better method using the Z system.
I would think the only way to get group shots is to make sure you stop down to 5.6 or so. I love shooting wide open but that just won’t work no matter how advanced the system is.
You remind me of Les Nesman from WKRP in Cincinnati? OMG that turkey episode was hilarious. Great video, thank you. You have a new sub.
That reminds me - it's just about time to do a turkey episode! Thanks for the kind words and the subscription.
super video as always ...thnax a lot ,,are those options exist on Z6 ??
Yes, they do - in fact, the manual for the Z6 and Z7 are a single publication.
Excellent video Martin. I’m struggling with purchasing a Z6 at this point as I am used to the D750, which I love.
What focus area would you suggest for group shots?
That depends on the distance of the various members from the camera. I would either select wide area with face detect on, or single point to make sure the most important person is in focus.
nice tuto. can you please make a similar one with Z6II, explaining how to play with red and yellow boxes and tracking subject when AF is lost. Lot of tutos on youtube showing how bad is AF used on skateboarders, bicycler, moving portrait,... these people often come from the amazing sony a7m3 and expect z6II does the same job, which will require some firmware updates from Nikon. so, today we need to help AF when it is lost with the available tools provided by Z6II.
I appreciate the request, but won't be able to create any videos about the Z6II until Nikon Canada's reviewer loan program resumes.
Love your videos ... been very helpful understanding features of my new Z7. But wish you could explain more about what Nikon calls "focus distance indicator" when using manual focusing ... is this just qualitative information or can it be used for more precise information like confirming you have good depth of field. Haven't found much discussion of this in the Nikon manual other than what it is called ... but note that you refer to this as a "ruler". Thanks for the help!
Only one manufacturer (Fujifilm) adds depth of field information to the manual focus distance display (I find "ruler" easier) neither are very accurate. If you are trying to establish the depth of field for a given aperture and distance, you'll need to use some trial and error. The focus bracket feature might help.
@@MaartenHeilbron Thanks for confirming (and replying) ... I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something!
@@jmontgomery7394 Always happy to help.
Thank you. I got a Z5 which is more fun and enjoyable to shoot with than the Sonys I used in the past 5 years, even if Sony’s AF seem to have more options. With Nikon why not always use wide area with lock on square? You get face/eye AF and can always use the lock on square to select and recompose. Faster than moving a af point with the joystick. Also is there a way to assign a button to turn on and off quickly face AF? Sometimes I need to photograph people holding an object in front of them.
It can be assigned to a button for easy/quick access.
@@MaartenHeilbron Thank you. I do not see the option to assign a button to switch Face AF on and off. I can assign a button to switch Focus mode, but I would like to stay in Wide Area AF with Lock On AF, without face recognition. That is the only downside I find in Nikon, with Sony I can use Lock On with different AF Area modes. The Z5 Lock on is limited to wide area. I find it faster to focus with the Lock On square and recompose, the square will stay on the subject for multiple shots. Using the thumbstick to move the AF square area is slower.
@@stefpix My apologies - just scrolled through the list and didn't find what I thought was there. Yes, you can activate it with WideArea AF - but then you can't select WideArea AF without face. Subject tracking is available as a custom setting, but I do appreciate that it doesn't behave like Sony.
@@MaartenHeilbron Thank you for checking. Overall it feels very refreshing shooting with Nikon than with Sony. The EVF quality and the humane menu system and customizable buttons, the grip. Quality of life elements that many RUclips reviewers who pan Nikon seem to not consider. A FW update just to toggle Face AF off and on would be my nitpicking satisfaction, and a smaller square for lock on AF. What makes you appreciate that it does not behave like Sony? PS the video and raw files seem to have nice natural colors straight out of the camera compared to Sony.
@@stefpix Thanks for adding these notes. As for OOC images - cameras have many settings from white balance to colour profiles that if you find the default not to your liking, you can easily modify it. That said, it's nice not to have to do anything.
Thanks Maarten. More good info. I find that the Z6 focuses very well for video with native Z lenses, but tends to micro focus a bit with adapted lenses. Don't know if others have found the same. Also, any plans for a video on prores raw shooting and if it's worth getting the upgrade? Would be interested in your thoughts on when this is beneficial and when it's not really needed.
Thanks for your kind words.
I have the feeling that ProRes RAW is a little too esoteric for the RUclips audience, but I am intrigued to try it out and see.
True. I feel the same way too
Great presentation. Well organised. I learned a lot. Thanks Maarten!
Glad it was helpful! Always nice to read that my work is appreciated.
Should I use dynamic area AF with Continuous AF to shoot unpredictable action? Or should I use the white "ok" box to track people in Continuous? Would love your suggestions!
Hard to determine without seeing the exact situation - but those are clearly the two I would try.
Very helpful tutorial!
Glad you think so! Thanks for taking the time to comment.
Hi Maarten, I linked your video to mine as I had some autofocus issues with the Z50 :) Hope you don't mind.
Still even with your tips, it feels like these cameras need more some effort to get the focus correctly.
First time buyers/owners might get a bit dissapointed about this.
That's fine, thanks for letting me know. Adapting your style and workflow to a new camera is always a challenge.
Well done and extremely explicit. Thank you !
Thanks, glad to read that you enjoyed it.
Very informative and very useful. Thank you.
So nice of you to comment, thanks for the kind words.
Thanks a lot for your tutorials! I wonder if it 'd be possible to focus "manually" without using a focus ring, e.g. by assigning some custom buttons to adjust the focus distance? I shoot macro video underwater, and do not have access to focus ring. I can't use a sleigh(?) either to slightly move the camera on tripod (no sleigh for underwater exists). Any ideas?
Thanks, a pleasure to read your kind words. I don't have a solution for this problem. Does auto focus not work well in this situation?
@@MaartenHeilbron Thanks for your answer! Autofocus is not always good - underwater motives are often difficult to separate from background, as a tiny shrimp sitting on anemone, constantly moving with current and waves. Tripod + manual focus is the best option in this situation - maybe I will build some kind of cradle/sleigh.
Hello, how are you? I am from Uruguay and I wanted to ask you a question. I have a Z50 to take a picture in a fast sport I would have to use the a3 menu as shown in the value 1. To speed up the release of the focus? Thank you very much
Fine, thanks. The number of focus points only makes it faster to select a point, it will not make the focus engine work more quickly. Please say hello to all my friends in Uruguay.
Hey Maarten, Great video. I have one question, What is the focus mode and area mode that you usually use? and what is the best way to quickly switch to face/eye detect mode from the ususal mode?
I'm usually AFS/Auto area until that doesn't work. That mode includes face/eye. I don't think there's a custom assignment to enable/disable it.