Helmut, great video. The Mazda 2 hybrid is not available here in the U.S. or the Toyota counterpart. Fantastic MPG given the wet road conditions as well. This car would sell like crazy here in the U.S. if it was available. Mpg like that beats even most motorcycles.
On long decent you should use B mode as it’s designed to protect battery and breaks. Once battery is full you have a problem as you need to use breaks a lot and can overheat them. B mode engages engine more so this way it protects other components.
@ I assume it can cut off battery if needed but then all falls on breaks which can overheat. This is why B mode can help as then most of the extra load goes to petrol engine. I also read that new models do a lot of it by itself, so not sure if then B mode is very useful at all. B mode is definitely not for stronger recuperation for sure in case of most Toyota systems.
@ Thats possible. I'd have to try it myself. But i believe he said in the video, that the engine cuts in to engine-brake the car automatically. So B mode wasn't necessary to use. I'm however not 100% sure what "B" actually does. I will have to ask my dealer next week.
@@L0v0lup B will recuperate more energy instantaneously, but it will also send big part of it to petrol engine which by creating load will ‘eat’ it ( specially when battery is already full). This is precaution mode for driving in mountains when you have long downhill parts. In D mode battery will quickly charge and then recuperation won’t work at all so all energy will have to be eaten by breaks which will heat them. There can be cases where they can overheat and then you have a problem. B mode will send this extra energy to petrol engine ( in simple words) so breaks will have to deal with much smaller energy surplus and won’t overheat easily. It’s exactly the same as driving simple petrol engine in lower gear downhill, so engine takes the load and slows down the car preventing breaks from overheating. Quite simple to understand. Forget about B mode unless you are in mountains or on very hilly roads with long descents. In everyday usage D and R is all you need. I read that new models like Lexus LBX even in D assist you when driving downhill, but this may be linked to PDA system which most people have turned off. So you still best to use B mode. I myself have PDA off even if it’s nice system. It does a lot for you and then if you use a car without it you forget to slow down before junction, roundabout etc.
19:17 good tip. I drove a corolla using cruise control most of the time, so this trick didn’t apply. Although I was still getting upper 65mpgUK on average. I sometimes wished it had a slightly bigger battery. As you point out, when going downhill, the battery becomes full very quickly. Also the BMS never lets the battery go to 100% and
Thats incredible economy. Im in the UK, not the cheapest fuel. I run a Subaru and although I love the car, its not cheap to run and maintain. This car is very appealing. Cheers for the road test.
That's really impressive. I wonder what those numbers will be when Toyota upgrades Yaris to 5th. gen. of their hybrids. Kinda shame this one does not have the efficient range like Prius that suggest at what throttle it will be, most likely, efficient the most.
I think you can get it to show what you’re talking about. There are several different displays to choose from. I have the lowest level Yaris and that has the analog HSI and speedometer left and right and a similar display in the middle but vertically oriented. I much prefer the analog HSI over this digital because the analog are step less and more precise.
I drove one of these today at my local dealership and managed 0.34 on a roughly 35 minute drive spanning around 40 kilometers overall. The car was brand new and thus consumes a bit more than it would when broken in. There was also a lot of uneven driving due to other drivers on the road. I'm far from an eco-driver, traffic conditions were pretty calm, but I did a mix of 100km/h and 90km/h motorway, 30km/h villa areas, and 40-and 50km/h urban areas with more traffic. In a broken in car and knowing my commute to work and overall driving habits, I'm pretty sure I can consistently drive this at around 0.33-0.35 on average, which is crazy. Especially adding in actually getting to know the car and mild hybrid systems overall (never owned or driven one before). I was also pleasantly surprised about space up front, I'm 193 centimeters tall and around 110-|112 kilos and had no issues with space. Told my contact at the dealership to keep her eyes out for upcoming deals on a top-spec version!
In your tests i understand that you rely on the consumption figure the car tells you. My 2008 Prius was pretty accurate but almost always a little optimistic about fuel consumed. My 2012 Prius plus was more optimistic, upwards of 10% which i didn’t care for much. Few people seem to check the accuracy of their cars consumption values and trust it or wants to trust it so there seems to be an incentive for manufacturers to fudge this number. What are your experience in this matter with different makes and models?
My Volvo is 100% accurate, my Mazda shows about 1,5 % less, ADAC found out that over 70% of all Boardcomputers are accurate (means within 3% of deviation), and more than half of those show a higher (worse) consumption than the real usage.
Thanks for the tip. This is a technique that also works in non-hybrid cars, it was actually used for a lot of world-record attempts. I use this when it fits naturally, like in city traffic. With hybrids I remembered this recently and with this car it was the first time I used it more extensively. Although it needs to be said that it requires a sensitive right foot to find and keep the point of coasting, but it also works with using regen, not the full extend, though.
looking at the specs online (uk websites so WLTP) i see that the mazda2 hybrid quotes 74.3mpg and yaris 68.8mpg so maybe it is just tweaked somehow for mazda to be more efficient. strange that the 0-62mph stats are identical though. that suggest either better tech for the 2 (unlikely toyota would do that) or maybe mazda took some weight out. i can't find the unlayden weight for the mazda to compare. maybe it's less refined in some way. took out some sound insulation or something like that.
A stunningly attractive car but I've rejected it because (a) unforgivably, even the topspec version comes sans satnav -and, no, I refuse to have to fiddle around with a phone connection alternative - (b) too many reviewers complain about intrusive wind noise and tyre roar on the motorway (c) it's more expensive than its Toyota sibling. For all their seductive qualities these twins fail to prise the wonga from my wallet.
if you get the version with wireless car-play or buy a wireless car-play adapter for like 35€, then you only need to set it up once and it will launch automatically every time you start the car with the phone nearby, and at least where i live the base-models seem to go for about the same price, higher trims are harder to compare since i don't think they share the same upgrades.
Helmut, great video. The Mazda 2 hybrid is not available here in the U.S. or the Toyota counterpart. Fantastic MPG given the wet road conditions as well. This car would sell like crazy here in the U.S. if it was available. Mpg like that beats even most motorcycles.
Thanks, Al!
Most Americans don't care about mpg or small cars
Impressive! Thanks for the video!
Thanks, you're welcome!
On long decent you should use B mode as it’s designed to protect battery and breaks. Once battery is full you have a problem as you need to use breaks a lot and can overheat them. B mode engages engine more so this way it protects other components.
How does it protect the battery? As far as i understand, it wont charge the battery, once it has 90 or 100%.
@ I assume it can cut off battery if needed but then all falls on breaks which can overheat. This is why B mode can help as then most of the extra load goes to petrol engine. I also read that new models do a lot of it by itself, so not sure if then B mode is very useful at all.
B mode is definitely not for stronger recuperation for sure in case of most Toyota systems.
@ Thats possible. I'd have to try it myself.
But i believe he said in the video, that the engine cuts in to engine-brake the car automatically. So B mode wasn't necessary to use.
I'm however not 100% sure what "B" actually does. I will have to ask my dealer next week.
@@L0v0lup B will recuperate more energy instantaneously, but it will also send big part of it to petrol engine which by creating load will ‘eat’ it ( specially when battery is already full).
This is precaution mode for driving in mountains when you have long downhill parts. In D mode battery will quickly charge and then recuperation won’t work at all so all energy will have to be eaten by breaks which will heat them. There can be cases where they can overheat and then you have a problem. B mode will send this extra energy to petrol engine ( in simple words) so breaks will have to deal with much smaller energy surplus and won’t overheat easily.
It’s exactly the same as driving simple petrol engine in lower gear downhill, so engine takes the load and slows down the car preventing breaks from overheating. Quite simple to understand.
Forget about B mode unless you are in mountains or on very hilly roads with long descents. In everyday usage D and R is all you need.
I read that new models like Lexus LBX even in D assist you when driving downhill, but this may be linked to PDA system which most people have turned off. So you still best to use B mode. I myself have PDA off even if it’s nice system. It does a lot for you and then if you use a car without it you forget to slow down before junction, roundabout etc.
@@SOMEONE-ME Ah okay, thanks.
Awesome video as per usual, thank you!
The difference in relation to Yaris could be also attributed to the smaller tires, don't you think?
Thanks. Yes, might be.
I think you are right. Taller side wall have less rolling resistance in my tests.
19:17 good tip. I drove a corolla using cruise control most of the time, so this trick didn’t apply. Although I was still getting upper 65mpgUK on average. I sometimes wished it had a slightly bigger battery. As you point out, when going downhill, the battery becomes full very quickly. Also the BMS never lets the battery go to 100% and
You're correct, it's for the longevity of the battery.
Thats incredible economy. Im in the UK, not the cheapest fuel. I run a Subaru and although I love the car, its not cheap to run and maintain. This car is very appealing. Cheers for the road test.
You're welcome.
That's really impressive. I wonder what those numbers will be when Toyota upgrades Yaris to 5th. gen. of their hybrids.
Kinda shame this one does not have the efficient range like Prius that suggest at what throttle it will be, most likely, efficient the most.
Looking forward to the new gen as well! Below 3 should be the norm then :)
I think you can get it to show what you’re talking about. There are several different displays to choose from. I have the lowest level Yaris and that has the analog HSI and speedometer left and right and a similar display in the middle but vertically oriented.
I much prefer the analog HSI over this digital because the analog are step less and more precise.
I drove one of these today at my local dealership and managed 0.34 on a roughly 35 minute drive spanning around 40 kilometers overall. The car was brand new and thus consumes a bit more than it would when broken in. There was also a lot of uneven driving due to other drivers on the road. I'm far from an eco-driver, traffic conditions were pretty calm, but I did a mix of 100km/h and 90km/h motorway, 30km/h villa areas, and 40-and 50km/h urban areas with more traffic. In a broken in car and knowing my commute to work and overall driving habits, I'm pretty sure I can consistently drive this at around 0.33-0.35 on average, which is crazy. Especially adding in actually getting to know the car and mild hybrid systems overall (never owned or driven one before). I was also pleasantly surprised about space up front, I'm 193 centimeters tall and around 110-|112 kilos and had no issues with space. Told my contact at the dealership to keep her eyes out for upcoming deals on a top-spec version!
The Yaris comes with 16 inch wheels. The Mazda 2 comes with 15 inch.. There is quite a difference in consumption if you check out the official figures
Yaris also comes with 155 inch wheels in lower spec versions. And you can get 15 inch for top spec ones...
I think in other markets in Europe, the Yaris comes with 15" wheels. However in the UK, the minimum wheel size is 16".
Does the wheel rim size affect consumption in these hybrid cars?
Yes
please,review the Kona hybrid 1.6
I'll try to get it.
Have you tried the Yaris without hybrid, how much worse is it?
In your tests i understand that you rely on the consumption figure the car tells you.
My 2008 Prius was pretty accurate but almost always a little optimistic about fuel consumed. My 2012 Prius plus was more optimistic, upwards of 10% which i didn’t care for much.
Few people seem to check the accuracy of their cars consumption values and trust it or wants to trust it so there seems to be an incentive for manufacturers to fudge this number.
What are your experience in this matter with different makes and models?
My Volvo is 100% accurate, my Mazda shows about 1,5 % less, ADAC found out that over 70% of all Boardcomputers are accurate (means within 3% of deviation), and more than half of those show a higher (worse) consumption than the real usage.
write "pulse and glide" on youtube and watch samo videos. It is very informative...for hybrid it is not good to drive constant speed
Thanks for the tip. This is a technique that also works in non-hybrid cars, it was actually used for a lot of world-record attempts. I use this when it fits naturally, like in city traffic. With hybrids I remembered this recently and with this car it was the first time I used it more extensively. Although it needs to be said that it requires a sensitive right foot to find and keep the point of coasting, but it also works with using regen, not the full extend, though.
looking at the specs online (uk websites so WLTP) i see that the mazda2 hybrid quotes 74.3mpg and yaris 68.8mpg so maybe it is just tweaked somehow for mazda to be more efficient. strange that the 0-62mph stats are identical though. that suggest either better tech for the 2 (unlikely toyota would do that) or maybe mazda took some weight out. i can't find the unlayden weight for the mazda to compare. maybe it's less refined in some way. took out some sound insulation or something like that.
or maybe it's tweaked in a way that makes it less reliable in the long run. something toyota prefer not to do.
Mazda has smaller wheels than the Yaris.
@@leesmith9299as others have mentioned, it's due to the smaller wheels. 15 rather than 16"
@@pk1342 Depends on the yaris... Base versions have 15 inch wheels. And you can buy 15 inch wheels for the other versions
@@carlosamaral6917OP was asking about the UK market and in the UK we don't get 15 inch wheels on the Yaris like other markets may do.
A stunningly attractive car but I've rejected it because (a) unforgivably, even the topspec version comes sans satnav -and, no, I refuse to have to fiddle around with a phone connection alternative - (b) too many reviewers complain about intrusive wind noise and tyre roar on the motorway (c) it's more expensive than its Toyota sibling. For all their seductive qualities these twins fail to prise the wonga from my wallet.
if you get the version with wireless car-play or buy a wireless car-play adapter for like 35€, then you only need to set it up once and it will launch automatically every time you start the car with the phone nearby, and at least where i live the base-models seem to go for about the same price, higher trims are harder to compare since i don't think they share the same upgrades.
Its exactly the same body as the Yaris so wind noise shouldnt be any different in the Mazda, or anything else for that matter.