Subaru brz/wrx code p000a,p000b,p000c,p000d code FREE fix
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- Опубликовано: 28 авг 2024
- this method works 99% of the time but is not a surefire way to fix the sensor if this method does not work replace the sensor with the provided part number but verify vehicle fitment before ordering
for replacement the Subaru part number is 1091AA231
special thanks to @didisway3341 for his video showing the problem and helping inspire this vid.
To determine sensor even though he showed yall read it like a book left to right top down
A B
C D
This is the view when you are looking at your engine from the front
Not sure why you got pinned.. the info you're providing is wrong.
A = right head intake
B = right head exhaust
C = left head intake
D = left head exhaust
Bank 1 = right head
Bank 2 = left head
A C
B D
@@cosmicgoatslap you're incorrect
@@Kai_Keller02 ok
@@cosmicgoatslap actually though which one of you is correct on this? @kai_keller02 wrote something different than what is shown in the video
@@benjaminkelly9476 I am a Subaru technician. Trust me, I'm right.
Thank you for the information!
I ended up using carb cleaner to clean out the solenoids. Boiled them back up stuck them back in... Had a talk with the owner and said you need to change your oil more often!
Thanks for this I have a 2015 wrx and had the p000a instead of purchasing a new solenoid got a can of Sea Foam and cleaned it out. Reinstalled nice and easily and within a 6 mile trip the engine light is off easy fix!
hi did u submerge it or just spray it inside, thanks
Thanks, this was helpful for dealing with my P000B. Very easy to reach in an FR-S, thankfully. Followed another commenter's advice with the Seafoam. This was helpful, especially with the red straw. I took an air compressor to it too to blow out old gunk. Did this a few times and it was all clean. Torque spec for the 10mm bolts is 56 in lbs as per TSB S-SB-0033-13.
this fixed my engine check light, was so worried about it but i cleaned it up in like twenty minutes put some new motor oil in like you said and the CEL turned off, many thanks!!
happy to have helped
Dude, this worked really well. I cleaned the solenoids really easily doing this.
One thing to mention is that I had an easier time using an oil cleaner like Seafoam instead of the clean oil. Everything works like brand new now. Thanks!
did u spray it directly into the side holes or did u like submerge it?
@FarhanNahin I've tried both, but just running the cleaner into the holes was enough to free them up.
@@00dethklok00 sick, gonna do this when I get home then thanks!
You are the mannn. Just got this code was about to buy a whole sensor.
This is what I came for. Perfect. Thank you
Thanks man I needed that I am not to have to replace it
Never knew these had to be replaced till I saw one leaking 😭 hopefully it doesn’t mess up my engine up
How to I get to this point of the engine while keepin it in the bay? I can’t find these anywhere when looking from above. Looks like a bunch of plastics (belt cover I assume?) is in between me and the sensors? TIA🙏
what, no soaking in Marvel Mystery Oil (MMO)? if the issue is 'bad' oil in the sensor/solinoid, shaking it isn't the real answer. You have to eliminate the stiction and the only way to do that is either buy a new part free of old oil or soak the part in something to clean out the old oil. There are other stiction eliminators on the market too....
Aye thanks for the fix homie❤️
Hey Austin thanks I have an FRS with p0018 I pulled the old vvt solenoid and replaced but when I downshift the code still sets the CEL any thoughts ? Whould I need to change the Timing gear ? Or could this still be a sensor issue ?
The 10m on my vvt sensor is stripped, and it’s fortunately the top drivers side but any tips on loosening the screw?
I got a P000A isn’t that the cam sensor on the driver side near the oil fill ?
I was told that 2 were for the intake cams, and the other 2 were for the exhaust cans. Which ones are for the exhaust
B & D at the bottom.
Do you need to drain the oil out before removing these sensors or no? I just did an oil change and hoping not to drain the oil but want to clean the sensor
No you do not need to drain the oil to pull the sensors
My fr-s it throwing a p0011 and p000b once it threw those codes it starded knocking will this fix that issue ?
if your engine is knocking you need a new engine bro
Did u find out? Same here, p0000d came and it started knocking
@@nqzy2165 i still have no idea its been parked
@@davidpabon6585 All i had to do was clean the solonoid and change oil & filter. Also reset the codes. No more noise or engine lamp
@@nqzy2165 swear which solenoid the one for the cams ?
What's the part number for the one for A. I'd rather buy a new one
Ok, random question. I'm pulling a pOOB, and have the new actuator ready to install. When I remove the old one, do I need to worry about oil coming out, or will it be a simple matter of plug and play? I've yet to see a video that shows what happens immediately after the actuator is removed. Thanks for your help.
No oil should come out
@@austinbrz Good deal. Thank you.
Austin, I have a 2015 wrx sti showing the P000D code. My check engine light, cruise control light, and (S) light are all flashing. Well the check engine light is solid. The shop JUST replaced the solenoid, and it worked awesome for about 100 miles, now it's doing it again!😥 What are your thoughts please?
When they replaced it did they replace p000d or one of the other three?
@@garretthorner3368 yes, p000d.
Are your sure it is the exact same code? If you switch oils or go over on a oil change that is normally when the sensors get gunked up, my thoughts are that maybe it is another sensor that got gunked up causing a similar light. If you want further clarification just ask 👍
@@austinbrzthis happened to me in my sti after my first and only track day so far. cel, traction control light, flashing Sport mode. I regularly change oil every 3k with motul 5w40. Luckily club member had a scan tool and pulled code p000d and cleared it, hasn’t come back since but I’m still nervous been about 2 weeks
@@Bumblebeewrx what ended up happening here if I can ask? Just pulled this code on a unusually hot day. I cleared it and it hasn't come back, but I can see on my access port that the avcs sensors aren't moving together like they should.
what is the name of that sensor?
"Engine Variable Valve Timing (VVT) Solenoid"
Hey I’m confused when I scanned my car it pulled up at P000C but in bank 1 any clue which one it’s in?
P000c should be driver side top sensor
can you show a further explanation on the code p000B
P000b should be the lower passenger side one,the code itself is normally caused by a slow response by the sensor because of oil buildup or switching oil weights. If you have any further questions let me know I am happy to help
@@austinbrzso B is bottom left and D is bottom right (looking at engine from the front)
Does the engine oil need to be drained first?
No
Would i be able to replace P000B without having to take the engine out ?
Yes
Hey man having a similar problem and wanted to pick your brain for some help?
No worries what’s goin on?
Could this possibly resolve a P0019 (crankshaft position/Camshaft 2B position correlation)?
How to I get to this point of the engine while keepin it in the bay? I can’t find these anywhere when looking from above. Looks like a bunch of plastics (belt cover I assume?) is in between me and the sensors? TIA🙏
... these are outside the timing cover. pause the video at 0:12. they are the circular objects at the extreme outside. Yes, you might see plastic covers, so those will need removed. If you need more info, there are many other Subaru FA engine vids out there explaining these parts.....
@@K03sport I have the EJ257. I’m getting a p000D code. I’ve replaced the OCV and still nothing. I’m not sure