Hey man, thanks a lot for posting this video. This issue has been torturing me for months now and it all happened after my timing chain and guides were replaced the car was running perfectly before that. At first, we thought it was faulty AVCS solenoid and after replacing it the issue went away for a couple of weeks, and then it came back in the form of misfiring and stalling at low RPM but no CEL or SL. I took it to a shop that replaced my LH INTAKE cam sprocket because they claimed that after removing the timing chains the sprocket should be able to rotate freely. That didn't work as well which is why we replaced all of the AVCS solenoids with brand new OEM ones and that solved the issue for a month and then it came back. Now I've got a CEL and SL and I can't remember if the code was P0016 or whatever but as far as I can remember it's about a faulty RH EXHAUST gear. I've read 100s of forum threads and I can't find a clear answer to this problem. Do I need to replace all of the cam gears and/or the ECM? Can this issue with ECM be fixed with a remap or a USED ECM? Please give me some pointers I'm getting desperate.
Check the front sensors might have been damaged during that work one infront of each cam on the front timing cover check that the wiring is in good condition after that you will need a scan tool to verify operations and proceed with diagnostics sorry for the delayed response RUclips is doing weird stuff with my comments
Update: The mystery code P0017 has finally been resolved. Replaced a new cam sprocket for that particular fault code and it’s done. No new ECU and all.
Thank you for the video! I’m throwing a p0020 code wondering what’s your take on it? I know it can be the cam sensor which I have replaced, cam sprocket which can be expensive, or could be a harness/electrical problem. Thank you!
in my experience the gear is the failure point most times however checking the wiring is fairly straight forward just check resistance from the ECM to the controller should be less than 1 ohm if you did the sensor already and the wiring all checks good there's a good chance you have a gear issue.
What about codes P0390, P0391, P0345, P0346? My 2013 Frs is hard to start, when it finally does start it runs pretty rough. It will stall after a while, it’s not driveable. I was getting some other codes but I chased down some bad ground wires that seemed to clear up the other issues. Any ideas what I should do next with those codes?
Hey man, amazing video! I do have a question. I’m not having any engine codes but my car just got reflashed(ecutek) and my vvt takes forever to come back. The first time it took around 30 minutes and the second time it was around a whole hour. Do you know what it could be?
this could be from the ECU flash itself the other thing that controls vvti activation is oil pressure so just make sure your using the correct oil and its not low after that the controllers can be weak and not pushing the gears all the way they are located on front timing cover there are 4 of them.
Got me a bit spooked to buy one of these now, how common is this, is it bc of abusing the engine or is it normal and how many miles before this happens?
Hi buddy i been having issus whit my subaru wrx 2015 fa20 whit the code p0019 and i double check timming is fine and change the timming kit and keeps the check light on i would apprecciatte all kind info thanks
Did you change the timing gears as this is a common cause of this problem next I would make sure electriclly that everything is good check the crank sensor and check for signal at the vvti gears. After that the ecus have been known to cause this as well
My sons 2013 BRZ was throwing a P000A code. We replaced the camshaft position sensor on bank 1 and that code ended up going away for awhile however we now have the P0011 code showing up and now Im not sure what to do. We have cleared the codes and while the car idles everything is fine but as soon as we drive the car the CEL comes on and we have the P0011 code with the P00OA code. We are ready to pull the engine and replace the Bank 1 exhaust sprocket, guides, tensioners and chain and time accordingly. My question is what else do I need to be looking at for the P000A code and the P0011 codes. Also, I have watched your setting timing videos. If we pull the front cover off and rotate the engine to line up everything for timing and find that the time is off lets say on the right side, arrows don't line up do we just turn the sprockets after we remove that chain to line the arrows up.
so I have only ever pulled one apart and had the timing be off with that being said yes you would simply set the timing back to spec and reinstall everything you took off. as for the what else you should look for i always look to see if there is anything clogging any of the ports and make sure that overall it looks clean in there you will also want to inspect the gear and make sure that it looks ok and nothing is broken or missing from the pick and that there is no metal in there
Can you help me out i have the code p0019 on my 2017 wrx i have try everything timing set up power connection fuses new vccd Do you think its the same issue as your the cam gear the code p0019 don’t erase if you trying
Hey I was wondering if I could get some advice I change my spark plug in my Scion FR-S and now it won’t start so I used a obd2 scanner and it give a me a code P0451 any suggestions on how I can fix the problem? It’s something about evap sensor
so an evap code won't keep a vehicle from starting I would go back and double-check everything you had to touch to do the plugs like check the ECU connections as it had to be moved after that you need to find out with a spark tester if you are getting spark this will make narrowing the diag down slightly easier
Hi there, my Toyota 86 2013 has been throwing code P0017 for awhile now. Car is losing a lot of power. idling was ok but i can hear slight misfiring sound from the muffler while idling. Intake sound became louder. I’ve tried swapping OCV sensor, cam position sensor, crank sensor but the code still there. So now the last resort is to change the cam sprocket. The question is which cam sprocket that i need to change? This problem has been bugging me for awhile now. What’s your advice? Thanks in advance 🙏🏻
@@TheRed86 sorry just got to the shop its bank 1 exhaust should be passenger side also I found a tsb for that code that requires an ecu update I would make sure that has been done before replacement of the gears
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop btw I’m driving a right hand drive JDM version. So bank 1 exhaust is on the driver’s side am I correct? I’m not sure whether JDM version requires an ecu update. I’ll just start with the one I’m having code 1st. Do you have a instagram that i can follow?
Dealing with a p000a which is camshaft slow to respond. How would I go about diagnosing this? I'm guessing that since it's not a correlation code that it could possibly be a blocked oil journal???? I moved the vvt solenoid and the code did not follow. It has stayed on cam A bank 1. I'm also getting a code simultaneously for c1201 engine control system malfunction. This code is setting in the abs/vsc/trac module. So I get VSC, Brake and Engine light. I really have no idea where to start. Have a solid scan tool with live data but not sure what I'm looking for. I don't see anything out of whack in the freeze frame data.....unless I'm not looking in the right place.
It could be an oil issue you could start by moving the controllers they are east to get to. After that I would look at the wiring and try swapping an ecu with a known good one
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop Hey thanks for the reply! I have some telling me that it could also be a clogged up ocv filter. Where might this little guy live? I was also considering unplugging the fuse for the abs/vsc/trac system to disable the module. I'm sure I would set a crap ton of codes but if I drive it and the p000a doesn't come back maybe I could pinpoint it to the c1201 code in the abs module????? This engine is not original to the car but I owned the car it came from and never had this issue. I still have the ecu from that car. Can I swap that one in and not have issues with the car starting and running without updating the VIN?
@@rbailey225 the filter is under the cam cap so the engine would need to come out its very easy to remove but I would let that be your last resort I would replace the gear and while I had it off blow air through the cam before I pulled the motor
Hey! I drive a 2015 FRS and am getting the codes P0011, P0016, P0018, P0021. Is this the same issue? I took it to the dealer and they said it could be the oil control valves or the cam gear. They said the could replace everything but still might not fix the issue. I am taking it to another shop as well but still trying to figure out what the issue is on my own. Any ideas? I just finished replacing my clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, fork, pivot, etc. Then when I went to turn car back on I had the codes.... Not sure if they are related at all?? Any help would be appreciated thanks
I would check the harness near the rear of the engine that is where sometimes plugs get overlooked and you might get this code. but normally a clutch job will not cause this the other shop that said if they replace all those parts and it might not fix it is slightly right so in the manual it has you check the valves if the valves are ok replace the gears if the code returns after gears replace the oil control valves and if the code comes back after that they recommend replacing the ECU I've put the gears in to fix this a few times never an ECU but I know the ecus do fail and cause this issue the oil control valves are the cheaper and easier to get to parts so if I was doing this my self-id start there but in my experience, the gears seem to fail often I hope this helps please help us out by smashing the like button and subscribing to the channel we do some fun car stuff here from time to tim.
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop I was surprised to have this issue at all given my car doesn't even have 50k miles yet. What should I look at the plug? Make sure its connected right and not damaged? I looked at it previously and seems to look fine to the eye. Is changing the oil control values and/or cam gear something I could do on my own or should I have a professional do it?
@@sammic266 if your good at working on cars you could attempt this on your own just know timing is something that has to be 100 percent perfect or you will damage the engine
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop Yeah thats what I thought... thats why I am a little iffy about doing it myself. I've changed a timing belt on a '77 Esprit but not sure if I want to attempt this one
Hoping you can help. 2017 WRX had short block replaced at 54,xxx, spun bearing from what the dealer told me. Was 10 days out of warranty so paid out of pocket %50. Got my car back in August, so roughly 3 months ago and I’ve driven 2,500’ish miles. Popped a P0017 last week. Wondering if this would have to do with the short block replacement..? Only did the short block, not the heads or turbo. Car is bone stock. Asking because I don’t want the dealer to shaft me and try to tell me it is unrelated and not cover the repair. Can provide any further details if needed. Appreciate your input, thanks!
what normally happens is there is metal left inside the engine in hidden little spots its honestly almost impossible to get out and then it can make its way up to the the gears causing them to not activate when commanded. I've seen this happen on 2 separate occasions when the short block had failed as they were under warranty we ended up replacing all the gears at that time
Truly appreciate the quick response. This was my thought exactly when seeing the code but at the same time cringing at the thought of what could be causing it. Anytime i see a code in the lower numbers it gets me a bit nervous, lol. Now that said, in your opinion, should I expect/push the dealer to repair this under warranty, if it is in fact from metal shavings and/or being related to the short block being replaced? Would just like to go in with as much knowledge as possible to plead my case. Your time and consideration are appreciated more then you know, thank you!
@@WReXX86 I would try and get them to fix it however unless they find metal in the gears not likely they probably won't want to warranty it its just how it is in the industry but it's worth a shot the worse they can say is no. And if they say no I'd contact Subaru directly Sometimes they will cover it even if the dealer won't.
Omg.... I'm an dealing with the same exact issue right now..I just rebuild my motor too from a spun bearing..it was running perfect for 200 miles... then that code came on again.. first time this code came on was b4 the bearing spun and we only had to replace the oil control valve solenoid. Then the other day the p0017 came back and car stalled on me. Im starting to believe ima have to replace not just that 1 but all 4 to be safe? Thank both of y'all for this post and the video..
Doesn't seem to be the same engine but time codes are often caused by timing gears or mechanical timing being off I recommend checking the timing and oiling system as per the diagnostic tree for that code
So I have a question I got the same code p0018 and I replaced basically the whole timing set up (chains,gears, guides and tensioners) and obviously the sprockets but I only replaced the top 2 intake sprockets just to be on the safe side but I still have the check engine light. When I took the timing cover I noticed the bank 2 A chain was a tooth of the pink mark on the chain. Which led me to know the timing was off. But now I don’t know what to do to get it to go away does this mean I need a new ECM and retune my BRZ ?
if the timing was one tooth off that is your problem if your sure the timing is right and you still have an intake code for a gear you already replaced you might infact have a bad ecu however you cant rule out the possibility that the new gear is faulty did have that happen once
My car runs fine once I clear the code it starts up just fine as well I tried to looking at the wiring but I don’t see any burns or rips on the wiring them selfs I’m leading more on the ECU now 🥴
@@freddyarguelles6007 yeah so talking to our field rep on this issue I was told if the gears are known good and the timing is good there is a very good possibility there is an ecu issue however just know that I replaced all 4 gears on a car and had this code after we found one bad gear brand new out of the box so that is possible also might want to swap the gears if you have the same bank code all the time and make sure to check the actuators on the front cover they can also fail and cause the gear to not activate
I have a P0021 that keeps coming back and I have swapped OCV's from a known good car and changed both Bank 2 Cam Sprockets. Super frustrating, after 2nd startup/drive cycle it will throw the P0021 and shut all 4 ocv's down. low power mode.
a clog in the system from the ocv to the gear can cause this and also the exu's are known to cause this problem I would also guess you have verified the timing is correct and the chain itself is not stretched?
I have a 2013 scion frs been sitting over 2 months change clutch and lightweight flywheel. P0300,P0016, and P0018 codes popped. Car struggles to start will run and then die out. Able to drive but when stop accelerating will die again. In order to stay on you have to keep foot on pedal. Any advice what could be?
Did you possibly damage the crank sensor or the pick up wheel during the clutch change. I would also recheck any and all wiring in or around the tranny
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop I notice the oil was mixed with water but looks nothing like coolant. So changed oil and looks fine prob from sitting too long condensation was mixed. Far as the crank sensor i did not touch anything from front motor but the trans and engine to get to clutch and flywheel. So you believe could be crank sensor mixed with water like brownish color? I was thinking the VVT but don’t want to buy unless for sure it is from what the code picks up shows that parts to replace.
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop The main issue yes is sometimes hard to start but when motor runs the idle ups and downs for while and motor dies so can drive around but once let go acceleration car will for sure dies. I would be excited if could fix this issue as describing and your video is closes to my help needed.
Any idea what causes this failure? Just wondering if this is really an ECM problem, that sets of the timing, or oil pressure, etc. That would mean replacing sprocket(s) and/or ECM is just a temporary fix. Did you also need to replace the ECM on the 4 previous sprocket replacements? This is a great video, and made this entire P0016/18 process much less mysterious. I'm thinking I'll have the chain cover oil ports and pump disassembled and cleaned, while in there. Does that seem worth it to you, in your experience?
as the gears wear they begin to not lock when commanded sometimes this can be a clogged oil galley but most times its a worn or bad gear and the fix is to simply replace the gear
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop Thanks for that speedy reply. I'm switching out both of my Bank1 phasers, not going to risk it. Will likely disassemble and clean up my oil pump and channels on the belt cover. Your video was VERY helpful. Do you ever need to install a new ECM after changing out the phasers? I understand the VVT learning angles are burned in. and will trip future codes, even if the phaser is operating properly.
@@glenkilloran79 I've done 4 sets of gears now and have not needed to install an ecu yet but I know it can happen you won't know till you put the gears in 😢
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop Watched it. Another great video. It really is appreciated, with this being such a high cost repair to watch your videos. Cheers mate.
I’m having a issue rn with my 15frs when I slow down and come to a stop, it seems the rpms drop really low and the engine does a weird stop really quick . Not to sure how to describe it . Check engine light came on also, any idea what this is ?
Me too happends at around 11 mph. I hear almost like a knock and it feels like it either brakes hard or just feels like a bad shift. Have no idea. Happened after I took my 2013 FRS to the Toyota dealer for the infamous recall.
@@aking970 this started a few months ago at 56k miles, I bought it at 48k miles. I’ve taken it to the dealership several times because I have a friend that works there. The dude knows 3x the amount about an engine than I do and that’s saying something. He can’t even find the issue. If I clear the codes it goes away for a day but it inevitably comes back. This error code is pain in the ass even with a Diagnostic tree. I’m guessing it’s something to do with my gearing. He himself said it’s going to take him months to actually find the issue. If it makes you feel any better it won’t hurt any of the integrity of the engine itself. It May Say it’s a CPS on the OBD but it’s probably not. You should be fine, even with the light on. That doesn’t change the fact that I want this shit fixed.
Ok i have the same motor but is a wrx i replace oil, spark plugs even the cam position sensor and the sensor the on front of the timing belt still getting this code p0017 is 2015 wrx do i need to replace timing chain or cam gear i mean the car still run and drive
Ok thank you i order and replace then already and 1 more question what kind of seal you used to put the chain cover back a can used any as long is for gasket and oil resist??
@@super181989 yes but the Subaru sealant isn't that expensive and works insanely well just make sure you check the expiration date some dealers are selling this stuff way out of date and it works like crap when it's expired
I'm about to do this on my frs, is it necessary to replace the timing guides while I'm in there? And do you know the part number for that o ring on the oil pump that you mentioned in your video on setting the timing?
Hey man, thanks a lot for posting this video. This issue has been torturing me for months now and it all happened after my timing chain and guides were replaced the car was running perfectly before that. At first, we thought it was faulty AVCS solenoid and after replacing it the issue went away for a couple of weeks, and then it came back in the form of misfiring and stalling at low RPM but no CEL or SL. I took it to a shop that replaced my LH INTAKE cam sprocket because they claimed that after removing the timing chains the sprocket should be able to rotate freely. That didn't work as well which is why we replaced all of the AVCS solenoids with brand new OEM ones and that solved the issue for a month and then it came back. Now I've got a CEL and SL and I can't remember if the code was P0016 or whatever but as far as I can remember it's about a faulty RH EXHAUST gear. I've read 100s of forum threads and I can't find a clear answer to this problem. Do I need to replace all of the cam gears and/or the ECM? Can this issue with ECM be fixed with a remap or a USED ECM? Please give me some pointers I'm getting desperate.
Hey just wondering if you have to drain the oil to do this job and also Do you have to change the ecu for this job
Yes drain oil no did not replace ecu
im having the p0016 cel . helpppp!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
it started after hose change the belt was losend
Check the front sensors might have been damaged during that work one infront of each cam on the front timing cover check that the wiring is in good condition after that you will need a scan tool to verify operations and proceed with diagnostics sorry for the delayed response RUclips is doing weird stuff with my comments
Great video... please tell me this is the same procedure for the 2015+ wrx fa2.0dit?.. same motor correct minus a turbo? Thanks
Yes sir
Update: The mystery code P0017 has finally been resolved.
Replaced a new cam sprocket for that particular fault code and it’s done.
No new ECU and all.
nice yeah it'ss almost always the cam geas
Thank you for the video! I’m throwing a p0020 code wondering what’s your take on it? I know it can be the cam sensor which I have replaced, cam sprocket which can be expensive, or could be a harness/electrical problem. Thank you!
in my experience the gear is the failure point most times however checking the wiring is fairly straight forward just check resistance from the ECM to the controller should be less than 1 ohm if you did the sensor already and the wiring all checks good there's a good chance you have a gear issue.
What about codes P0390, P0391, P0345, P0346? My 2013 Frs is hard to start, when it finally does start it runs pretty rough. It will stall after a while, it’s not driveable. I was getting some other codes but I chased down some bad ground wires that seemed to clear up the other issues. Any ideas what I should do next with those codes?
Hey man, amazing video! I do have a question. I’m not having any engine codes but my car just got reflashed(ecutek) and my vvt takes forever to come back. The first time it took around 30 minutes and the second time it was around a whole hour. Do you know what it could be?
this could be from the ECU flash itself the other thing that controls vvti activation is oil pressure so just make sure your using the correct oil and its not low after that the controllers can be weak and not pushing the gears all the way they are located on front timing cover there are 4 of them.
Got me a bit spooked to buy one of these now, how common is this, is it bc of abusing the engine or is it normal and how many miles before this happens?
normally its lack of maintenance but parts do fail it can happen its pretty easy to replace if you ever need to do so
Hi buddy i been having issus whit my subaru wrx 2015 fa20 whit the code p0019 and i double check timming is fine and change the timming kit and keeps the check light on i would apprecciatte all kind info thanks
Did you change the timing gears as this is a common cause of this problem next I would make sure electriclly that everything is good check the crank sensor and check for signal at the vvti gears. After that the ecus have been known to cause this as well
My sons 2013 BRZ was throwing a P000A code. We replaced the camshaft position sensor on bank 1 and that code ended up going away for awhile however we now have the P0011 code showing up and now Im not sure what to do. We have cleared the codes and while the car idles everything is fine but as soon as we drive the car the CEL comes on and we have the P0011 code with the P00OA code. We are ready to pull the engine and replace the Bank 1 exhaust sprocket, guides, tensioners and chain and time accordingly. My question is what else do I need to be looking at for the P000A code and the P0011 codes. Also, I have watched your setting timing videos. If we pull the front cover off and rotate the engine to line up everything for timing and find that the time is off lets say on the right side, arrows don't line up do we just turn the sprockets after we remove that chain to line the arrows up.
so I have only ever pulled one apart and had the timing be off with that being said yes you would simply set the timing back to spec and reinstall everything you took off. as for the what else you should look for i always look to see if there is anything clogging any of the ports and make sure that overall it looks clean in there you will also want to inspect the gear and make sure that it looks ok and nothing is broken or missing from the pick and that there is no metal in there
HI I HAVE THE SEME PROBLEM WITH THE CODE IM CHANGE ENGINE US VS FOR JDM BUT ENGINE LIGTH WITH
DO YOU THING I NEED TO CHANGE THE TIMING CHAIM ?
Does this apply for a FB25 with P0011 and P000A when I already discard the solenoids, camshafts position sensors and putting brand new oil?
seems to be basically the same motor has the same actuators and ocv so I would say this is ver similar to the fa-20
I have 2013 scion frs has engine light on and I don't really know what wrong can you help me with that please
Lol your gonna have to give me a little more info than just the cel is on.
Can you help me out i have the code p0019 on my 2017 wrx i have try everything timing set up power connection fuses new vccd Do you think its the same issue as your the cam gear the code p0019 don’t erase if you trying
The gears do go bad on these and cause this also the pcm can cause this failure but in the Toyota world we replace the gears way more than the ecu
Hey I was wondering if I could get some advice I change my spark plug in my Scion FR-S and now it won’t start so I used a obd2 scanner and it give a me a code P0451 any suggestions on how I can fix the problem? It’s something about evap sensor
so an evap code won't keep a vehicle from starting I would go back and double-check everything you had to touch to do the plugs like check the ECU connections as it had to be moved after that you need to find out with a spark tester if you are getting spark this will make narrowing the diag down slightly easier
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop okay thank you it worked!!
Hi there, my Toyota 86 2013 has been throwing code P0017 for awhile now. Car is losing a lot of power. idling was ok but i can hear slight misfiring sound from the muffler while idling. Intake sound became louder. I’ve tried swapping OCV sensor, cam position sensor, crank sensor but the code still there.
So now the last resort is to change the cam sprocket. The question is which cam sprocket that i need to change?
This problem has been bugging me for awhile now.
What’s your advice? Thanks in advance 🙏🏻
If budget allows I'd change them all while your in there if not you have to start with the one you have a code for
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop thanks for the quick reply bro! May i know which is exact sprocket P0017 located? Please enlighten.
@@TheRed86 sorry just got to the shop its bank 1 exhaust should be passenger side also I found a tsb for that code that requires an ecu update I would make sure that has been done before replacement of the gears
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop btw I’m driving a right hand drive JDM version. So bank 1 exhaust is on the driver’s side am I correct? I’m not sure whether JDM version requires an ecu update.
I’ll just start with the one I’m having code 1st.
Do you have a instagram that i can follow?
@@TheRed86 should be the same bank location doesn't change on right hand drive
Dealing with a p000a which is camshaft slow to respond. How would I go about diagnosing this? I'm guessing that since it's not a correlation code that it could possibly be a blocked oil journal???? I moved the vvt solenoid and the code did not follow. It has stayed on cam A bank 1. I'm also getting a code simultaneously for c1201 engine control system malfunction. This code is setting in the abs/vsc/trac module. So I get VSC, Brake and Engine light. I really have no idea where to start. Have a solid scan tool with live data but not sure what I'm looking for. I don't see anything out of whack in the freeze frame data.....unless I'm not looking in the right place.
It could be an oil issue you could start by moving the controllers they are east to get to. After that I would look at the wiring and try swapping an ecu with a known good one
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop Hey thanks for the reply! I have some telling me that it could also be a clogged up ocv filter. Where might this little guy live? I was also considering unplugging the fuse for the abs/vsc/trac system to disable the module. I'm sure I would set a crap ton of codes but if I drive it and the p000a doesn't come back maybe I could pinpoint it to the c1201 code in the abs module????? This engine is not original to the car but I owned the car it came from and never had this issue. I still have the ecu from that car. Can I swap that one in and not have issues with the car starting and running without updating the VIN?
@@rbailey225 the filter is under the cam cap so the engine would need to come out its very easy to remove but I would let that be your last resort I would replace the gear and while I had it off blow air through the cam before I pulled the motor
Hey! I drive a 2015 FRS and am getting the codes P0011, P0016, P0018, P0021. Is this the same issue? I took it to the dealer and they said it could be the oil control valves or the cam gear. They said the could replace everything but still might not fix the issue. I am taking it to another shop as well but still trying to figure out what the issue is on my own. Any ideas?
I just finished replacing my clutch, flywheel, pressure plate, fork, pivot, etc. Then when I went to turn car back on I had the codes.... Not sure if they are related at all?? Any help would be appreciated thanks
I would check the harness near the rear of the engine that is where sometimes plugs get overlooked and you might get this code. but normally a clutch job will not cause this the other shop that said if they replace all those parts and it might not fix it is slightly right so in the manual it has you check the valves if the valves are ok replace the gears if the code returns after gears replace the oil control valves and if the code comes back after that they recommend replacing the ECU I've put the gears in to fix this a few times never an ECU but I know the ecus do fail and cause this issue the oil control valves are the cheaper and easier to get to parts so if I was doing this my self-id start there but in my experience, the gears seem to fail often I hope this helps please help us out by smashing the like button and subscribing to the channel we do some fun car stuff here from time to tim.
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop I was surprised to have this issue at all given my car doesn't even have 50k miles yet. What should I look at the plug? Make sure its connected right and not damaged? I looked at it previously and seems to look fine to the eye. Is changing the oil control values and/or cam gear something I could do on my own or should I have a professional do it?
@@sammic266 if your good at working on cars you could attempt this on your own just know timing is something that has to be 100 percent perfect or you will damage the engine
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop Yeah thats what I thought... thats why I am a little iffy about doing it myself. I've changed a timing belt on a '77 Esprit but not sure if I want to attempt this one
Hoping you can help. 2017 WRX had short block replaced at 54,xxx, spun bearing from what the dealer told me. Was 10 days out of warranty so paid out of pocket %50. Got my car back in August, so roughly 3 months ago and I’ve driven 2,500’ish miles. Popped a P0017 last week. Wondering if this would have to do with the short block replacement..? Only did the short block, not the heads or turbo. Car is bone stock. Asking because I don’t want the dealer to shaft me and try to tell me it is unrelated and not cover the repair. Can provide any further details if needed. Appreciate your input, thanks!
what normally happens is there is metal left inside the engine in hidden little spots its honestly almost impossible to get out and then it can make its way up to the the gears causing them to not activate when commanded. I've seen this happen on 2 separate occasions when the short block had failed as they were under warranty we ended up replacing all the gears at that time
Truly appreciate the quick response. This was my thought exactly when seeing the code but at the same time cringing at the thought of what could be causing it. Anytime i see a code in the lower numbers it gets me a bit nervous, lol. Now that said, in your opinion, should I expect/push the dealer to repair this under warranty, if it is in fact from metal shavings and/or being related to the short block being replaced? Would just like to go in with as much knowledge as possible to plead my case. Your time and consideration are appreciated more then you know, thank you!
@@WReXX86 I would try and get them to fix it however unless they find metal in the gears not likely they probably won't want to warranty it its just how it is in the industry but it's worth a shot the worse they can say is no. And if they say no I'd contact Subaru directly Sometimes they will cover it even if the dealer won't.
Omg.... I'm an dealing with the same exact issue right now..I just rebuild my motor too from a spun bearing..it was running perfect for 200 miles... then that code came on again.. first time this code came on was b4 the bearing spun and we only had to replace the oil control valve solenoid. Then the other day the p0017 came back and car stalled on me. Im starting to believe ima have to replace not just that 1 but all 4 to be safe? Thank both of y'all for this post and the video..
@@cheeseburgereddie8198 hope we helped please let me know you have any other questions I'll try and help out best I can
i have code P0018 on porsche panamera s e hybrid 2014 it could be the same problem??
Doesn't seem to be the same engine but time codes are often caused by timing gears or mechanical timing being off I recommend checking the timing and oiling system as per the diagnostic tree for that code
So I have a question I got the same code p0018 and I replaced basically the whole timing set up (chains,gears, guides and tensioners) and obviously the sprockets but I only replaced the top 2 intake sprockets just to be on the safe side but I still have the check engine light. When I took the timing cover I noticed the bank 2 A chain was a tooth of the pink mark on the chain. Which led me to know the timing was off. But now I don’t know what to do to get it to go away does this mean I need a new ECM and retune my BRZ ?
I went from replacing sensors and VVT solenoid to new gears.
if the timing was one tooth off that is your problem if your sure the timing is right and you still have an intake code for a gear you already replaced you might infact have a bad ecu however you cant rule out the possibility that the new gear is faulty did have that happen once
My car runs fine once I clear the code it starts up just fine as well I tried to looking at the wiring but I don’t see any burns or rips on the wiring them selfs I’m leading more on the ECU now 🥴
@@freddyarguelles6007 yeah so talking to our field rep on this issue I was told if the gears are known good and the timing is good there is a very good possibility there is an ecu issue however just know that I replaced all 4 gears on a car and had this code after we found one bad gear brand new out of the box so that is possible also might want to swap the gears if you have the same bank code all the time and make sure to check the actuators on the front cover they can also fail and cause the gear to not activate
@@freddyarguelles6007 hey, I have a 2013 frs with the same problem as you, just following up wondering if you ever got it fixed?
I have a P0021 that keeps coming back and I have swapped OCV's from a known good car and changed both Bank 2 Cam Sprockets. Super frustrating, after 2nd startup/drive cycle it will throw the P0021 and shut all 4 ocv's down. low power mode.
a clog in the system from the ocv to the gear can cause this and also the exu's are known to cause this problem I would also guess you have verified the timing is correct and the chain itself is not stretched?
how did u fix this?
I have a 2013 scion frs been sitting over 2 months change clutch and lightweight flywheel. P0300,P0016, and P0018 codes popped. Car struggles to start will run and then die out. Able to drive but when stop accelerating will die again. In order to stay on you have to keep foot on pedal. Any advice what could be?
Did you possibly damage the crank sensor or the pick up wheel during the clutch change. I would also recheck any and all wiring in or around the tranny
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop
I notice the oil was mixed with water but looks nothing like coolant. So changed oil and looks fine prob from sitting too long condensation was mixed. Far as the crank sensor i did not touch anything from front motor but the trans and engine to get to clutch and flywheel. So you believe could be crank sensor mixed with water like brownish color? I was thinking the VVT but don’t want to buy unless for sure it is from what the code picks up shows that parts to replace.
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop
The main issue yes is sometimes hard to start but when motor runs the idle ups and downs for while and motor dies so can drive around but once let go acceleration car will for sure dies. I would be excited if could fix this issue as describing and your video is closes to my help needed.
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop what is the pick up wheel
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop
Pick up wheel? As in flex plate thats goes infront of flywheel to engine block????
Any idea what causes this failure? Just wondering if this is really an ECM problem, that sets of the timing, or oil pressure, etc. That would mean replacing sprocket(s) and/or ECM is just a temporary fix. Did you also need to replace the ECM on the 4 previous sprocket replacements? This is a great video, and made this entire P0016/18 process much less mysterious. I'm thinking I'll have the chain cover oil ports and pump disassembled and cleaned, while in there. Does that seem worth it to you, in your experience?
as the gears wear they begin to not lock when commanded sometimes this can be a clogged oil galley but most times its a worn or bad gear and the fix is to simply replace the gear
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop Thanks for that speedy reply. I'm switching out both of my Bank1 phasers, not going to risk it. Will likely disassemble and clean up my oil pump and channels on the belt cover. Your video was VERY helpful. Do you ever need to install a new ECM after changing out the phasers? I understand the VVT learning angles are burned in. and will trip future codes, even if the phaser is operating properly.
@@glenkilloran79 I've done 4 sets of gears now and have not needed to install an ecu yet but I know it can happen you won't know till you put the gears in 😢
@@glenkilloran79 I also have a video on setting the timing makes it super easy I recommend you check it out if you run into issues.
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop Watched it. Another great video. It really is appreciated, with this being such a high cost repair to watch your videos. Cheers mate.
Anyone know the approximate cost to replace the sprocket?
Around 2k
I’m having a issue rn with my 15frs when I slow down and come to a stop, it seems the rpms drop really low and the engine does a weird stop really quick . Not to sure how to describe it . Check engine light came on also, any idea what this is ?
Without knowing what code you have it would be hard to guess
Me too happends at around 11 mph. I hear almost like a knock and it feels like it either brakes hard or just feels like a bad shift. Have no idea. Happened after I took my 2013 FRS to the Toyota dealer for the infamous recall.
@@aking970 same, it feels like that sudden lurch forward after overrevving a downshift. But I haven’t downshifted
@@phrawga yes exactly well stated! When did that start occurring for you? And is it always on or when does it turn on for you
@@aking970 this started a few months ago at 56k miles, I bought it at 48k miles. I’ve taken it to the dealership several times because I have a friend that works there. The dude knows 3x the amount about an engine than I do and that’s saying something. He can’t even find the issue. If I clear the codes it goes away for a day but it inevitably comes back. This error code is pain in the ass even with a Diagnostic tree. I’m guessing it’s something to do with my gearing. He himself said it’s going to take him months to actually find the issue. If it makes you feel any better it won’t hurt any of the integrity of the engine itself. It May Say it’s a CPS on the OBD but it’s probably not. You should be fine, even with the light on. That doesn’t change the fact that I want this shit fixed.
Ok i have the same motor but is a wrx i replace oil, spark plugs even the cam position sensor and the sensor the on front of the timing belt still getting this code p0017 is 2015 wrx do i need to replace timing chain or cam gear i mean the car still run and drive
sounds like one of the gears is not locking when commanded its pretty common i would verify your timing is correct and replace the gear in question
@@ParkHopTillWeDrop ok thank you …i have to replace the bottom one right since is p0017 on passenger side cam gear?
@@super181989 yes
Ok thank you i order and replace then already and 1 more question what kind of seal you used to put the chain cover back a can used any as long is for gasket and oil resist??
@@super181989 yes but the Subaru sealant isn't that expensive and works insanely well just make sure you check the expiration date some dealers are selling this stuff way out of date and it works like crap when it's expired
I'm about to do this on my frs, is it necessary to replace the timing guides while I'm in there? And do you know the part number for that o ring on the oil pump that you mentioned in your video on setting the timing?
It's not nessasary but if your going to be there it's not a bad idea I'll find the oring part number
Would anyone know a code for p0018
What does a job like this cost?
its around 8 hours plus the gears so one gear is around 300+8 hours@140 per hour =$1420 ish
@@ParkHopTillWeDropsomeone tried to charge me $5k
@RumBTv 5000g seems pretty excessive I could see like 2500 if they did the chains guides and all that.