Changed the alternator found out it was faulty due to the solenoid leaking oil onto it. Fixed that as well. Then a big misfire ran code to see which cylinder swapped coils, same cylinder, swapped plugs same cylinder. Changed the injectors no issues 3 months later leaking oil again and I’m contemplating the PCM considering everything else I’ve done in the past 5 months. This started happening 2 days after an oil and transfer case changing. Codes are telling me ecm/isu 83-11 and power source failure 61-11 Which oil may have got into the alternator connector so could be that.
@@8020Media the location of the leak is near the top of the engine. Close to the dip stick and solenoid I replaced. The solenoid doesn’t seem to look like it has oil on it or coming through. At least not from the angle I can see In 2 weeks since the oil change it went from the recommended level to being at the minimum. Getting close to 1000km. It’s a 2013 Pilot if that matters
I believe my ecu/ecm is failing on my 18’ camaro throwing all those codes and giving a list of faulty sensors. Is it better to replace ecu first rather than going down the list and fixing all the list of codes? Ive replaced a couple of the codes like spark plugs, 2 ignition coils, and has fixed the misfires. now giving oil pressure fault sensor. And still idling rough
My 2012 Honda accord was diagnosed with the u1055 code ECM and the lights are popping up for the TCS, ABS and handbrake light. What do I check and have to fix, to get those light to go away? Can I drive, without issues?
Ive got 23 fault codes. 2017 vw golf tsi 1.4L Ranging from misfires in cylinders 1 and 2, starter motor issues (car starts fine first) As well as the steering angle sensor
Hello Dorian, Can I ask if you got to the bottom of your issue yet? I have the same engine in my Caddy and had many fault codes relating to the turbo at first and progressed to other areas ( throttle body ect ) all were voltage related. I changed the turbo actuator and had been working fine for maybe 2 months but all started again now. wondering if you changed your PCM? My PCM had a few corroded pins that were cleaned up first time around but I didn't think that was going to be the permanent fix. Just wondering how you got on? Many thanks Kev
@MrBluegooh sorted. Turns out faulty battery that was overcharged damaged the throttle body throttle position sensors and put the car into Limp mode. Changed battery, 23 fault codes became 1, replaces throttle body, no more codes.
my 1993 corvette is showing a code 44 that means 02 sensor or running lean. 02 sensor with many other items have been changed on this vehicle. To list would be to long, but I still get H44 code and the vehicle runs good. Sometimes on idle at red light a little rough and light will come on then the light will go off but vehicle runs good. Changed prom in ecm thinking that would help still showing H44 code. Some times on the idle runs fine sent the ECM out last winter to SAI Electronics in IL and they said there was no problem. Cannot figure why this code continues to come up H44 is left bank 02 sensor. Both have been changed along with the cats to new magna flow cats. Many other items have been changed on the vehicle but continue to get code 44 with check engine light. At wits end
I make sure the battery is strong first.Then check fuses. And if some don't light up but are good then i find the relay that has control over them. Some times there are two related relay's that go to the same thing. Same with fuses And they are in different places. Most auto's have two or three fuse boxes that have relays in them too. First of all of them is the ECM or ECU relay if you get a no communication read.🥴Also you may have a single relay by itself somewhere like under the dash on driver's side fuel pump. Also on the positive battery post have fuses some times. What next 🤔 well sensors another word for fuse's that mostly control the motors running in some form. For a awesome fuse and relay layout to your car's fuse boxes go to Google and ask for start my car. U will be amazed when you see it. 👍✅👀
My car engine runs just fine but in the last few years when I’ve gone out to start up it like misfires and the engine light is flashing becomes undrivable. I go inside wait 10 minutes and start it up and it runs just fine. It’s done like three or four times in the last few years.
Check your spark plug wires/boots for any damage if so replace them, also check your spark plugs for any noticeable damage an if there is replace them. If that doesn't work an ya have one on you use a scanner tool to try and see if any codes shows up.
I have a 2007 maxda cx7 sports. It wont idle unless warm. So when I start the car I have to pump the gas to warm the engine and it is misfiring. Literally aounds like it is farting from the exhaust. Would this be an ecu issue?
I recently messed up my truck (2003 Silverado 1500) I connected my light bars positive wire to get power and connected it to my f/pmp relay and while I was doing it my truck shut off and ever since no crank , no start then I moved around the fuses and it starts but the dash doesn’t work and it says low power , when I go to turn off the truck it doesn’t turn off the engine keeps running for a minute then turns off . Any suggestions?
@@8020Media turns out the reason the truck didn’t want to crank and start was because I put to much pressure in the fuel lines and needed to bleed it out got it back from the dealership running but still electrical problems I checked under the hood and a ground was disconnected from the battery. I plugged it back in and good to go my fault for not noticing the obvious
I have a 2016 malibu LS .1.5 turbo. No codes. No engine light on. New plugs. New coils new maf sensor new 02 sensors new air filter. Fresh oil change. Cleaned throttle body. No vacuum leaks to be found. Scanner shows all is good. But bad fuel economy. And rough idle. 82k miles
For some reason the check engine light does not come on at all on my car, I have a ‘77 porsche 924 and it does not come on despite my car misfiring constantly. Cant even accelerate/ step on the gas without it misfiring and the car wants to cut off and is sputtering. Any ideas on what it could be?
Got a decently interesting story here. 2013 Ford Fusion se with a 1.6 cylinder SE. Brought car to ford dealer to get two tires replaced, they replaced the two tires and a wheel speed sensor they said was faulty. Fast forward a week, car throws 7 different codes while driving 30 mph on a two minute drive, Coolant overheat P1299, steering fault, abs/traction control fault, evap issue, U0131 and U1035. To try to fix the easiest first, I replaced the battery (5 years old) and the Coolant Temp Sensor, because online they said if there was coolant in the harness it could cause the short. Fast forwards another week, all the codes pop back up and it goes into limp again. At this point I brought it back top the dealership, they told me they think they need to replace the coolant temp sensor and the pigtail to the sensor. Which befuttled me because I just put a new one in a week ago. I called them to tell them this and they said it could be do to a cheap part (My part was OEM). Fast forward to this week, Traction contol/ABS error, P1450 EVAP, U1035 and U0131 popped up again. My thoughts are all bringing me to a computer issue because after I clear the codes, it runs smoothly for days and hundreds of miles. The car has been taken care of and hasn't had any issues since the Electric Steering Collum was replaced a year ago from failing. Any ideas would be great, thanks!
@@8020Media I think my ecm is failing. No codes on dash . Everything I take it to get inspected, it doesn't pass . They tell me the catalyst, h2o sensor, and o2 sensor not ready.
what would cause a fuel pump to shut off, i have a 2006 ford f150 4.6 it starts fine runs for like 2 minutes then idles down and stalls. the on board system tells me to check gauges, everything seems ok. then i try to star it from that point and it just cranks, no start, but if i turn the ign key to off and it will repeat the run and stall, i took the plug off the fuel pump driver module .and jumped the 2 outer wires and it starts and stays running. can not figure what is going on any suggestions!
odb2 what a joke . misfire ... new plugs , wires , distributor , crankshaft sensor , tps, new injector system , 350 bucks in diagnostic fees .2002 blazer 4.3 engine . ecm or ecu ? which shows gm intelligence they couldnt figure out what to call it. great compression great leakdown test . if the ecm/u does not work i might drive it to detroit and park it in gms lobby.
Maybe fuel regulator,fuel distributor/spider, or fuel clog. If you feel like its spark, backprobe ignition module to ground for expected or control signal. Do the same voltage/drop test for chasis grounds just to verify them. Follow bad circuits to fuse/relay, ecu, or chasis grounds with diagram. My experience is with the direct ignition. I believe a forum mentioned reseating your distributor or there being an issue with the gear.
My 2003 3500 Dodge ram Cummings diesel shuts down while driving starts back up right away can’t determine what the problem is could it be the ECM or some sensor.
Changed the alternator found out it was faulty due to the solenoid leaking oil onto it. Fixed that as well. Then a big misfire ran code to see which cylinder swapped coils, same cylinder, swapped plugs same cylinder. Changed the injectors no issues 3 months later leaking oil again and I’m contemplating the PCM considering everything else I’ve done in the past 5 months.
This started happening 2 days after an oil and transfer case changing.
Codes are telling me ecm/isu 83-11 and power source failure 61-11
Which oil may have got into the alternator connector so could be that.
There is no check engine light or anything currently lit up. I just ran my blue driver ob reader to see if it had any information
H - This oil leak could have caused some sort of electrical issue.
@@8020Media the location of the leak is near the top of the engine. Close to the dip stick and solenoid I replaced. The solenoid doesn’t seem to look like it has oil on it or coming through. At least not from the angle I can see
In 2 weeks since the oil change it went from the recommended level to being at the minimum. Getting close to 1000km. It’s a 2013 Pilot if that matters
H - You've definitely got a leak going on somewhere.. That's a lot of oil consumption in 2 weeks.
I was getting an electrical burnt smell in the car. With an ALT overcharging, this fried many things in the system.
C - So sorry to hear, hope you got it fixed!
I believe my ecu/ecm is failing on my 18’ camaro throwing all those codes and giving a list of faulty sensors. Is it better to replace ecu first rather than going down the list and fixing all the list of codes? Ive replaced a couple of the codes like spark plugs, 2 ignition coils, and has fixed the misfires. now giving oil pressure fault sensor. And still idling rough
S - If it was up to us, we would change sensors first as they tend to be cheaper. Keep us updated.
@@8020MediaCorrect! Bad signal input can kill an ECM, the hard faults should be rectified first before trashing a new computer with the same issues.
My 2012 Honda accord was diagnosed with the u1055 code ECM and the lights are popping up for the TCS, ABS and handbrake light. What do I check and have to fix, to get those light to go away? Can I drive, without issues?
I’m driving the shit out of my car. There is nothing wrong with it, just the lights that are still on.
@@monicatheshyone3985😂😂😂
Ive got 23 fault codes. 2017 vw golf tsi 1.4L
Ranging from misfires in cylinders 1 and 2, starter motor issues (car starts fine first)
As well as the steering angle sensor
D - You might want to get that checked out.... Sounds like a lot going on.
Hello Dorian, Can I ask if you got to the bottom of your issue yet? I have the same engine in my Caddy and had many fault codes relating to the turbo at first and progressed to other areas ( throttle body ect ) all were voltage related. I changed the turbo actuator and had been working fine for maybe 2 months but all started again now. wondering if you changed your PCM?
My PCM had a few corroded pins that were cleaned up first time around but I didn't think that was going to be the permanent fix.
Just wondering how you got on?
Many thanks
Kev
@MrBluegooh sorted.
Turns out faulty battery that was overcharged damaged the throttle body throttle position sensors and put the car into Limp mode. Changed battery, 23 fault codes became 1, replaces throttle body, no more codes.
my 1993 corvette is showing a code 44 that means 02 sensor or running lean. 02 sensor with many other items have been changed on this vehicle. To list would be to long, but I still get H44 code and the vehicle runs good. Sometimes on idle at red light a little rough and light will come on then the light will go off but vehicle runs good. Changed prom in ecm thinking that would help still showing H44 code. Some times on the idle runs fine sent the ECM out last winter to SAI Electronics in IL and they said there was no problem. Cannot figure why this code continues to come up H44 is left bank 02 sensor. Both have been changed along with the cats to new magna flow cats. Many other items have been changed on the vehicle but continue to get code 44 with check engine light. At wits end
J - Sorry to hear this. Have you taken it to a shop?
Interesting information.
R - Thanks? We hope it was helpful.
I make sure the battery is strong first.Then check fuses. And if some don't light up but are good then i find the relay that has control over them. Some times there are two related relay's that go to the same thing. Same with fuses
And they are in different places. Most auto's have two or three fuse boxes that have relays in them too. First of all of them is the ECM or ECU relay if you get a no communication read.🥴Also you may have a single relay by itself somewhere like under the dash on driver's side fuel pump. Also on the positive battery post have fuses some times. What next 🤔 well sensors another word for fuse's that mostly control the motors running in some form. For a awesome fuse and relay layout to your car's fuse boxes go to Google and ask for start my car. U will be amazed when you see it. 👍✅👀
J - Thanks for taking the time to share this insight!
My car engine runs just fine but in the last few years when I’ve gone out to start up it like misfires and the engine light is flashing becomes undrivable. I go inside wait 10 minutes and start it up and it runs just fine. It’s done like three or four times in the last few years.
D - Sorry to hear this.. Are you getting any engine codes?
Check your spark plug wires/boots for any damage if so replace them, also check your spark plugs for any noticeable damage an if there is replace them. If that doesn't work an ya have one on you use a scanner tool to try and see if any codes shows up.
J - Thanks for the input here.
@@8020Media
What would cause my ac and radio to be able to turn on without key in the ignition? It's a 2008 pt cruiser 😫
T - Could be a possible bad starter solenoid.
I have a 2007 maxda cx7 sports. It wont idle unless warm. So when I start the car I have to pump the gas to warm the engine and it is misfiring. Literally aounds like it is farting from the exhaust. Would this be an ecu issue?
J - Sounds more like a fueling issue. Getting a check engine light or codes?
I got a 91 Ford f350 7.5 i have replaced almost everything but it still misfires. Could my PCM be a problem?
H - What engine codes are you getting?
@@8020Media recently the codes are 87. 10. 93.
Will a ECM make your anti thief light come on after the truck run for about 15 minutes
D - Not likely.
I recently messed up my truck (2003 Silverado 1500) I connected my light bars positive wire to get power and connected it to my f/pmp relay and while I was doing it my truck shut off and ever since no crank , no start then I moved around the fuses and it starts but the dash doesn’t work and it says low power , when I go to turn off the truck it doesn’t turn off the engine keeps running for a minute then turns off . Any suggestions?
E - Are you getting any engine codes?
@@8020Media the dash wasn’t working I got my truck back to running good took it to the dealership
@@8020Media turns out the reason the truck didn’t want to crank and start was because I put to much pressure in the fuel lines and needed to bleed it out got it back from the dealership running but still electrical problems I checked under the hood and a ground was disconnected from the battery. I plugged it back in and good to go my fault for not noticing the obvious
E - Thanks for coming back and updating here! This will certainly help future viewers.
I have a 2016 malibu LS .1.5 turbo. No codes. No engine light on. New plugs. New coils new maf sensor new 02 sensors new air filter. Fresh oil change. Cleaned throttle body. No vacuum leaks to be found. Scanner shows all is good. But bad fuel economy. And rough idle. 82k miles
A - We have a video on rough idling that might be helpful here: ruclips.net/video/BiYsqRJCLhE/видео.html
For some reason the check engine light does not come on at all on my car, I have a ‘77 porsche 924 and it does not come on despite my car misfiring constantly. Cant even accelerate/ step on the gas without it misfiring and the car wants to cut off and is sputtering. Any ideas on what it could be?
Z - Have you checked for engine codes? This is usually the best place to start for diagnosing.
Got a decently interesting story here. 2013 Ford Fusion se with a 1.6 cylinder SE.
Brought car to ford dealer to get two tires replaced, they replaced the two tires and a wheel speed sensor they said was faulty. Fast forward a week, car throws 7 different codes while driving 30 mph on a two minute drive, Coolant overheat P1299, steering fault, abs/traction control fault, evap issue, U0131 and U1035. To try to fix the easiest first, I replaced the battery (5 years old) and the Coolant Temp Sensor, because online they said if there was coolant in the harness it could cause the short.
Fast forwards another week, all the codes pop back up and it goes into limp again. At this point I brought it back top the dealership, they told me they think they need to replace the coolant temp sensor and the pigtail to the sensor. Which befuttled me because I just put a new one in a week ago. I called them to tell them this and they said it could be do to a cheap part (My part was OEM).
Fast forward to this week, Traction contol/ABS error, P1450 EVAP, U1035 and U0131 popped up again. My thoughts are all bringing me to a computer issue because after I clear the codes, it runs smoothly for days and hundreds of miles. The car has been taken care of and hasn't had any issues since the Electric Steering Collum was replaced a year ago from failing. Any ideas would be great, thanks!
G - Think you might be right here.. Sorry to hear about your troubles, however, please keep us updated!
Thank you❤❤❤❤
M - Thanks for the feedback! Hope it helps.
2012 Ram 2500 ST, Crew Cab 4 Full-Size Doors, Four-Wheel Drive, 5.7L V8 Gas---- where can I order a ECU/ECM
B - Have you gone to the dealership? If not, there's a ton of resources online.
@@8020Mediadealship ? Hell no I know the dealership prices
B - Could give you an OEM part # was our point here.
@@8020Media I’m so unknowingly thinking at the moment 🥹🥹 I’m not 100% sure of which part to buy 🥹🥹 don’t know if it’s the TIPM -FUEL PUMP - OR ECU/ECM
B - No worries! We hope it gets resolved for you. Keep us updated.
Would my ecm be bad, I have drove 3000 miles and obd reader says some things are not ready for inspection.
J - This is very vague and we aren't sure how to help. What things aren't ready? What codes are you getting? We just need more information.
@@8020Media I think my ecm is failing. No codes on dash . Everything I take it to get inspected, it doesn't pass . They tell me the catalyst, h2o sensor, and o2 sensor not ready.
J - Have you taken it to a mechanic?
what would cause a fuel pump to shut off, i have a 2006 ford f150 4.6 it starts fine runs for like 2 minutes then idles down and stalls. the on board system tells me to check gauges, everything seems ok. then i try to star it from that point and it just cranks, no start, but if i turn the ign key to off and it will repeat the run and stall, i took the plug off the fuel pump driver module .and jumped the 2 outer wires and it starts and stays running. can not figure what is going on any suggestions!
G - We have a video specifically on the fuel pump that may help: ruclips.net/video/cua6aG2ld9E/видео.html
Fuel pump overheating. Works good when cold then shuts off. Mostly with aftermarket pumps
If my car is stolen in shaking can Reprogramming my e c u possible fix the problem
A - We think this video may be helpful in your research: ruclips.net/video/BiYsqRJCLhE/видео.html
@@8020Media thanks
Will this cors the car to over heet
S - Not likely.
no, i'd check your thermostat and coolent temp sensor an depending on vehicle check the radiator fan relays 1st.
J - Great advice here. Thanks for replying to Steven.
odb2 what a joke . misfire ... new plugs , wires , distributor , crankshaft sensor , tps, new injector system , 350 bucks in diagnostic fees .2002 blazer 4.3 engine . ecm or ecu ? which shows gm intelligence they couldnt figure out what to call it. great compression great leakdown test . if the ecm/u does not work i might drive it to detroit and park it in gms lobby.
C - So sorry to hear this..
Lol get some rest guy
Take a nap bro
Maybe fuel regulator,fuel distributor/spider, or fuel clog. If you feel like its spark, backprobe ignition module to ground for expected or control signal. Do the same voltage/drop test for chasis grounds just to verify them. Follow bad circuits to fuse/relay, ecu, or chasis grounds with diagram. My experience is with the direct ignition. I believe a forum mentioned reseating your distributor or there being an issue with the gear.
My 2003 3500 Dodge ram Cummings diesel shuts down while driving starts back up right away can’t determine what the problem is could it be the ECM or some sensor.
E - This video may be helpful with your research: ruclips.net/video/7bqAIbYRdnc/видео.html