I had this problem on a 2009 Forester. I decided that at close to 200,000 miles no harm could come from a good oil change and replacement of both solenoids and sensors. I skipped the diagnosing steps, changed the oil with full synthetic and a quart of Lucas oil treatment, and then a couple of hundred miles later changed the oil again--in hopes that a good clean of the oil system would fix it. (At that mileage, it likely needed it anyway.) To my surprise, the check engine light went off but then came back on a few hundred miles later. So I replaced both solenoids and both sensors. It's an easy job to do and not expensive. I haven't had a problem since, and I get about 3 miles per gallon better gas mileage. I suspect that the solenoids were not performing at peak efficiency, which was hurting fuel economy.
Definitely a fuel economy benefit from a proper working system. That’s cool that the CEL went out and returned. Identifies that the ECU keeps a watch to detect intermittent problems that can be self cleared
Thanks for the details and taking your time to share the solution . My Outback 2006 throw up P0026 , Code was erased manually and changed the oil Switch sensor on the passenger side but the engine runs rough , Wondering if i have to change the VVT too
@@HomebrewSubaru nice. My friend just gave me an 08,drove it home only the vvt codes popped up. I've watched everything I've found on e replacement, just casue
Duane, thanks for this video. Very helpful for those that have no idea where to start diagnosing and resolving this issue. Swapping the solenoids and switches from side to side is a good test check. I had the P0028 on an 07 Outback which sat for awhile as a non-runner with rod knock. Once we got her running again, the drive side solenoid needed some attention and cleaning and some oil running through it to not throw the code any longer. It has not returned after 6 months.
OMG, I got a P0028 a few days ago. I had my cruise control set at 65 and my car seemed to be struggling to maintain. I could tell something was going on. It seems like it’s been gasping for air and off and on jerky acting. That’s the best description I could come up with. Good information you’re giving out. So the bank 2 is the solenoid??? Hopefully I spelled that right. ...new sub
Sorry for the 5 year bump. Your description matches an issue I had last night. I was driving an 08 automatic with cruise control just over 62mph and then suddenly there was a big jerk motion and the car had stalled. After making it to the roadside assistance lane, I waited 2 minutes started the car successfully and was able to drive the remaining mile and a half home without cruise control. Later that night I wanted to bring it closer to my apartment to inspect, I tried to start it, it managed to start, but when I shifted to drive it stalled immediately and now the engine wont start at all. Did replacing the solenoids fix your issue?
The parts on the one side are essentially the same for the other side. You can swap the sensor and solenoid one at a time to the other side to see if the codes follow the bad part.
Just tried to replace the sensor on my 2007 out back and apparently over tightened and broke off the side of the bore of where the sensor screws in. looked at my Haynes and found a torque spec of 18 ft lbs for oil pressure sending unit. Is that the torque I should have used. Looks like I'm going to have to get it towed to the shop and have them replace the part that the bore is in. $ 8.50 replacement part just got much more expensive.
I have an Impreza 06 with the ej204. It has started to lose power mid range. No engine light. It revs nice to about 2900 and then loses power for a bit then kicks back in again. It doesnt seem to have a miss when this happens. any ideas? thanks.
Your description matches an ignition misfire. Is the problem consistent, like every time? I would scan for codes just to see if something is there, present or history. Subie's seem to code rather easy, a code may pop up and set the engine light in the next little while. MAF's, O2 sensors, bad grounds can all cause strange performance issues.
hey man great vids you got here, Q; I just got a 2011 outback w/ 103k , 6sp. car is running fine but I noticed that when I first start it I can feel a shake up until rpm's come down, is this normal? or should I look at motor mounts or something elsewhere.. thanks in advance.
8:30 to 9:38 is the best part! Nah, just kidding. I think you got a little issue with your encoding there bud. But either way, informative as always! What year is that fozzy? I didn't catch it if you said so. I'm glad to have an older model. That one looks a lot different. Guessing it's got variable timing and valve gubbins. It may be "better" But I love my old school EJ251. Even if it is a problem child. 650 miles on the rebuild so far and still going stronk. Pretty sure if something was gonna go wrong, it would have already. I do have a heat shield that rattles like Michael J Fox tho. Scares the crap outta me from time to time. Eyes do right to the oil pressure gauge. Good times.
Holy fak I didn't realize that was left like that. It was the second encode too, think I would have noticed a minute of black screen. It's like one or two frames left at the end, happens to me often while editing. That Forester is a 2007. Not much more to them. I would say your engine is going to be good. Once you get to that 1000km mark, usually a good sign the engine will last. 650miles you're there now.
Homebrew Subaru gotta push the runtime to 10 minutes. Get that RUclips money! Oh, by the way, there's an ad for pooporri going while I write this. I'll send you a picture to your email. Lolol
HOLY SHIT IT'S JAMES HETFIELD'S REINCARNATION! Haha no but thanks for the video. I am dealing with this damned P0026/28 on my 06' Legacy as I write this and I'm a little angry lol.
Well I haven't been a car guy up until recently and I'm realizing as an engine to start learning on the Subaru's isn't great... Feels like a lot of ass backwards designing set up to send your ass to the garage instead.
Boxer engines do differ from most other designs. I got bored with the normal stuff. Subaru simplicity of design is often overlooked by the inexperienced. Some things are a pain in the ass, but most of this stuff is to some degree lol.
Well that's good to know. Maybe after I have enough hours under my belt I'll start to see where I'm catching a break and where I would be worse off in other engines. Thanks again!
Hey I am having trouble with the VVT on the Driver's Side. I don't know if you've dealt with a Subaru such as mine but the VVT Solenoid on the Driver's Side is pretty much impossible to remove (the bolt holding it in place) unless you remove the Cam Bolt and that whole assembly because of the dumbass space around the bolt. Also, I'm not certain if VVT's are Driver/Passenger Side Specific. If you've got any answers for me that would be highly appreciated! Thanks for reading.
Had a P0026 for the passenger side on my '06 2.5i. I ended up ordering a new part (didn't install it) and the light just went off on its own one day and hasn't come back since..
It could have been an intermittent electrical connection. The circuit only needs to go open momentarily for the code to set and will self clear if the fault is no longer present. Keep the part on hand, you may still need it.
It would be uncommon. The solenoid was the actual problem. I didn't have the time to perform my own diagnostics beyond what the service manual states. The sensors and solenoids can be swapped from one side to the other to see if the fault follows.
I had this problem on a 2009 Forester. I decided that at close to 200,000 miles no harm could come from a good oil change and replacement of both solenoids and sensors.
I skipped the diagnosing steps, changed the oil with full synthetic and a quart of Lucas oil treatment, and then a couple of hundred miles later changed the oil again--in hopes that a good clean of the oil system would fix it. (At that mileage, it likely needed it anyway.) To my surprise, the check engine light went off but then came back on a few hundred miles later. So I replaced both solenoids and both sensors. It's an easy job to do and not expensive.
I haven't had a problem since, and I get about 3 miles per gallon better gas mileage. I suspect that the solenoids were not performing at peak efficiency, which was hurting fuel economy.
Definitely a fuel economy benefit from a proper working system. That’s cool that the CEL went out and returned. Identifies that the ECU keeps a watch to detect intermittent problems that can be self cleared
Thanks for the details and taking your time to share the solution . My Outback 2006 throw up P0026 , Code was erased manually and changed the oil Switch sensor on the passenger side but the engine runs rough , Wondering if i have to change the VVT too
Likely the solenoid isn't activating
Brother you are the man. You helped me get this headache done by myself. I owe you big time
Glad I could help
lol funny here i am watching an old old video of yours with my new gifted forester
The Forester in this video isn't mine but I do still have my 2004. Actually I just had a windshield put in today. Best vehicle I've owned.
@@HomebrewSubaru nice. My friend just gave me an 08,drove it home only the vvt codes popped up. I've watched everything I've found on e replacement, just casue
Is it serious or just something minor ?
Short term minor, long term serious
@@HomebrewSubaru how much do mechanics charge to fix this issue? Usually .
@@FreshMikeable could be a couple hundred depending on the actual problem
Duane, thanks for this video. Very helpful for those that have no idea where to start diagnosing and resolving this issue. Swapping the solenoids and switches from side to side is a good test check. I had the P0028 on an 07 Outback which sat for awhile as a non-runner with rod knock. Once we got her running again, the drive side solenoid needed some attention and cleaning and some oil running through it to not throw the code any longer. It has not returned after 6 months.
You are welcome! Thanks for leaving a comment on your own experience.
So how did you clean it? Doesn't Brake cleaner reek havoc withe O ring? Thanks Tom
I stumbled across your video and wanted to express my thanks for this. Will try this on my Subaru Impreza 2.5i
Car threw a P0028
Schon-Ray Joseph Thanks man, glad I could help in any way. P0028 indicates a problem in the drivers side.
Hello there!! I got a 2010 Subaru Legacy and i got the code p0026 OSV Solenoid valve R malfunction.. is it that solenoid you replaced to that car
Thats it
Cool thanks bro 🙏🙏
Both banks are set off. I hace an 06 outback
It may be worth checking oil pressure before changing too many parts. Low oil pressure could cause a problem with both sides
thank you!!! by the way what is the reader code brand ?
It's a CReader
OMG, I got a P0028 a few days ago. I had my cruise control set at 65 and my car seemed to be struggling to maintain. I could tell something was going on. It seems like it’s been gasping for air and off and on jerky acting. That’s the best description I could come up with. Good information you’re giving out. So the bank 2 is the solenoid??? Hopefully I spelled that right.
...new sub
Thanks! Yeah, most likely the solenoid on the passenger side is no good.
Sorry for the 5 year bump. Your description matches an issue I had last night. I was driving an 08 automatic with cruise control just over 62mph and then suddenly there was a big jerk motion and the car had stalled. After making it to the roadside assistance lane, I waited 2 minutes started the car successfully and was able to drive the remaining mile and a half home without cruise control. Later that night I wanted to bring it closer to my apartment to inspect, I tried to start it, it managed to start, but when I shifted to drive it stalled immediately and now the engine wont start at all. Did replacing the solenoids fix your issue?
I'll be doing this myself this weekend as my 07 Forester has the exact same error codes going right now.
The parts on the one side are essentially the same for the other side. You can swap the sensor and solenoid one at a time to the other side to see if the codes follow the bad part.
I'm going to go ahead and replace the sensors and solenoids given the age of the car and its mileage.
Good idea, they can be found a relatively good prices in the aftermarket. Could take care of any residual oil leaks at the same time.
#1 Broheim, you are the man !
I owe you a case of brew , conference in doing the repairs yourself = Priceless
Thank you For On Point Advise
Hey how about driver's side?
On the second bank the actuator and sensor are located closer to the front of the engine behind the cam cover.
Just tried to replace the sensor on my 2007 out back and apparently over tightened and broke off the side of the bore of where the sensor screws in. looked at my Haynes and found a torque spec of 18 ft lbs for oil pressure sending unit. Is that the torque I should have used. Looks like I'm going to have to get it towed to the shop and have them replace the part that the bore is in. $ 8.50 replacement part just got much more expensive.
18 ft lbs seems to be too much for the actual sensor. I would guess 8-10 would be plenty to snug up a sensor.
I have an Impreza 06 with the ej204. It has started to lose power mid range. No engine light. It revs nice to about 2900 and then loses power for a bit then kicks back in again. It doesnt seem to have a miss when this happens. any ideas? thanks.
Your description matches an ignition misfire. Is the problem consistent, like every time? I would scan for codes just to see if something is there, present or history. Subie's seem to code rather easy, a code may pop up and set the engine light in the next little while. MAF's, O2 sensors, bad grounds can all cause strange performance issues.
It's not consistent no. It loses power but i cannot detect a "miss" when it happens. I thought it was maybe to do with the VVC.
Where did you purchase the solenoid
I think it was from an online shop
hey man great vids you got here, Q; I just got a 2011 outback w/ 103k , 6sp. car is running fine but I noticed that when I first start it I can feel a shake up until rpm's come down, is this normal? or should I look at motor mounts or something elsewhere.. thanks in advance.
You feel a shake in the engine while accelerating?
no, only at first start of the day and in park (neutral) and idle.
You would be right to check the mounts. Suspect the transmission mount, it usually fails first and causes this symptom.
ok, will check all tomorrow, thank you for the quick response
have not gotten a haynes manual for it yet Q; 2011 timing chain or belt? and when should it be replaced? is it an interference motor?
8:30 to 9:38 is the best part! Nah, just kidding. I think you got a little issue with your encoding there bud. But either way, informative as always! What year is that fozzy? I didn't catch it if you said so. I'm glad to have an older model. That one looks a lot different. Guessing it's got variable timing and valve gubbins. It may be "better" But I love my old school EJ251. Even if it is a problem child.
650 miles on the rebuild so far and still going stronk. Pretty sure if something was gonna go wrong, it would have already. I do have a heat shield that rattles like Michael J Fox tho. Scares the crap outta me from time to time. Eyes do right to the oil pressure gauge. Good times.
Holy fak I didn't realize that was left like that. It was the second encode too, think I would have noticed a minute of black screen. It's like one or two frames left at the end, happens to me often while editing.
That Forester is a 2007. Not much more to them. I would say your engine is going to be good. Once you get to that 1000km mark, usually a good sign the engine will last. 650miles you're there now.
Homebrew Subaru gotta push the runtime to 10 minutes. Get that RUclips money! Oh, by the way, there's an ad for pooporri going while I write this. I'll send you a picture to your email. Lolol
Potporri? C'mon Adsense!
Hey man. Can I ask you a related question?
Sure...
HOLY SHIT IT'S JAMES HETFIELD'S REINCARNATION! Haha no but thanks for the video. I am dealing with this damned P0026/28 on my 06' Legacy as I write this and I'm a little angry lol.
LOL. This is much easier on SOHC engines. Good luck with it!
Well I haven't been a car guy up until recently and I'm realizing as an engine to start learning on the Subaru's isn't great... Feels like a lot of ass backwards designing set up to send your ass to the garage instead.
Boxer engines do differ from most other designs. I got bored with the normal stuff. Subaru simplicity of design is often overlooked by the inexperienced. Some things are a pain in the ass, but most of this stuff is to some degree lol.
Well that's good to know. Maybe after I have enough hours under my belt I'll start to see where I'm catching a break and where I would be worse off in other engines. Thanks again!
Hey I am having trouble with the VVT on the Driver's Side. I don't know if you've dealt with a Subaru such as mine but the VVT Solenoid on the Driver's Side is pretty much impossible to remove (the bolt holding it in place) unless you remove the Cam Bolt and that whole assembly because of the dumbass space around the bolt. Also, I'm not certain if VVT's are Driver/Passenger Side Specific. If you've got any answers for me that would be highly appreciated! Thanks for reading.
Love the music half way thru song brotha?
The tune is an untitled mix called "Jazzy Chill Lofi Hip Hop"
Had a P0026 for the passenger side on my '06 2.5i. I ended up ordering a new part (didn't install it) and the light just went off on its own one day and hasn't come back since..
It could have been an intermittent electrical connection. The circuit only needs to go open momentarily for the code to set and will self clear if the fault is no longer present. Keep the part on hand, you may still need it.
2 sensors at the same time? Uncommon fault.
It would be uncommon. The solenoid was the actual problem. I didn't have the time to perform my own diagnostics beyond what the service manual states. The sensors and solenoids can be swapped from one side to the other to see if the fault follows.
Dude all you did was replace parts
Your service manual must have something different written in it, please reveal this secret information.