Please note that the sensor has a "pipe" thread. Which means that the tread is tapered or wedge shaped. You only need to snug this down. I have seen a few where a home mechanic has over tightened it and cracked the housing causing a major oil leak and now needing a cylinder head replacement. Please look up the theories of Pipe threading and how it works if you're unfamiliar. This will not stop turning when its tight enough like most things. It will keep going and then "crack" your in trouble. Where the sensor screws into the head is thin aluminum be carefull
Thanks for the clear description in your video. It saved my bacon. The check engine lit off but it all seemed to run ok. I was close to home so I just parked it. Next day bought the switch, bought a 24mm deep socket and swapped out the part. The check engine indicator remained on until I cleared the alarm using my ODB App. There is still a permanent alarm entry on the diagnostic log that the won't clear. Hopefully that is just a record that the problem occured and not that it is still present.
You are man of the match man. I went to two places, both saıd 250$, I dont want to talk more about them but today I replaced&solved it wıth 20/30$ with ease. Thank you !
Well done diagnostic video, concise and specific where the codes are concerned. Good presentation also. I do agree, that if you are so inclined a step by step tutorial would be helpful. However, for the majority of the wrench turners out here, you showing where the part was and a quick uninstall/install demo is really good enough. Thanks again and keep the videos coming.
Thanks! Had a P0026 and a P0028 code. Replaced both sensors from Subaru for $22 a piece. You do need a 24 deep socket to get them off. The only thing you need to watch out for is the threads for the sensor are very fine and need to be started by hand to avoid cross threading. Seems like the sensor next to the oil fill is covered in oil if someone has been careless filling the oil without a funnel. You may need a can of brake clean just to find it....
This happens with honda owners also, they go way too far out on their oil changes and the vtec oil pressure sensors throw similar codes. KEEP YOUR OIL CHANGES CURRENT, PEOPLE! Thanks for the helpful video, I'm about to install a 2012 legacy longblock in a 2007 2.5i I just bought with a spun bearing (probably from lack of oil changes, lol)
Well good thing you'll probably have that motor swap done in an afternoon since they practically fall right out of the car. It is super sad to see what a lack of maintenance will do to a great car. Disturbing. Thanks for dropping by.
Great video and thanks for the info! Just had a P0028 come up on my '08 Outback after an oil change. I'm taking it back to the shop where I got the oil changed to make sure they properly filled it and that the filter is good. I had a P0026 issue abou 18 months ago and replacing the sensor did the trick in that case. I hope it's the same issue here.
I didn't hear the click on the torque wrench Autozone lent me and i broke it. I had to JB Weld it and leave it in the Autozone parking lot for 24hrs, for safe measure.
Replaced the sensor and did an oil change. How do you get the driver side solenoid out? It appears that the bolt holding it on is behind another sensor and I can't get a wrench on it.
Ted Walton bro I had the same issue but started taking it off. The round solenoid right under the VVT solenoid. There is a bolt holding the sensor in. Then a bolt above that holding the mount on. Take em off in that order. It’s a 10 mm gotta use the open end wrench for the first bolt and a socket for the mount. Once you get the mount bolt out pry the sensor mount off and it clears it out for you to get the bolt...
My 2004 subaru forester's (2.5L XS) oil at temp light will flash; usally when I first start the car, rarely when I am just driving; then when I come to a stop it will stall, everything locks up and I have to put it in park or neutral and restart the car. The issue comes and goes, some days it drives fine and nothing is wrong, others it'll just start blinking and eventually stall out. Fuel injectors were going bad, we replaced them. The battery died, we replaced it. We thought it was my alternator, we replaced that. The head gaskets were apparently replaced by a former owner. All of this checked off/replaced, what else is the problem. I'm tired of stalling out whenever I stop and I want to fix the problem. Any anywhere near possible answers??? I'm starting to become desperate.
(2007 Impreza) My driver's side VVL pressure switch is just spewing oil everywhere (also threw up a P0028 fault code). Took it to Subaru and was told I need to replace both the driver's and passenger's side. They are estimating ~2 hours of labor. Seems pretty unreasonable to me based on what I've read so far?
Too bad they weren't changing their oil regularly enough! I hear that's a big cause for head gasket failure. Good video! I'm about to replace my solenoid valve as well . . .
+Nicole Rachelle Well I think those head gaskets leak at 90K miles even if you change the oil regularly. Just a weakness of the engine but if you do them right and change the water pump and timing belt at the same time and maintain it regularly it will run forever. Good luck with your fix and thanks for the complements. Blessings.
Had the same error P0028 on my 06 Forester. I recently purchased it and new it possibly needed an oil change. After an oil change the error cleared up and running great again. I would recommend changing the oil first.
I've changed all the oil sensor solenoid and I'm still getting CEL and flashing cruis control. I don't what to do. We thought the ECU may have had a problem coz we reset it several times and changed it to a new ecu and still having the same problem. What should I do next.
I'm sure you've already fixed it, but for someone who hasn't what fixed it for me (my AT OIL TEMP light was also flashing) was a wheel speed position sensor on the associated "wheel"
Hey Great Video! I have an 07 subaru impreza. I have noticed a smell of burning oil, and a small oil build up around the sensor you just replaced. Check engine light never came on, but was wondering if oil could possibly be leaking from the sensor. Thanks
+Jerry Cribbs Absolutely. It happens. There is oil pressure behind the switch so when it begins to fail it can start leaking oil. Good find! Please subscribe and stop back again soon.
got Check Engine light on a few years ago. Went to a local shop and the scan showed P0026. But the shop cleared or reset code and suddenly lose power and acceleration and gas consumption increased 15% = losing 60miles per tank. Then a few weeks later, check engine light on again and went to dealer shop who said the car needed new oil pressure switch and since then Check Engine light never comes on again BUT the power/acceleration/ gas consumption never got back to normal.... Recently tried replacing Solenoid (Bank 1), still not help. Appreciate your opinion
Pulling off the interstate and before coming to a complete stop my 2010 subaru impreza started shaking and all the dash lights went crazy. The car stopped working and wouldn't start again. Towed it home. It threw both codes p0026 and p0028. Changed out both oil sensor switches and topped off the oil. It was a quart low. Had changed it less than 3 months ago. But car still won't start. Any ideas where I go from here? Thanks. Hoping the engine is not seized up. Car has 136k.
07 Legacy, pulled code P0117 plus the P0026 and P0028 mentioned in here. Just recently replaced radiator, intake, head gaskets... but hearing slosh noise near dash from air buildup, now car runs rough idle. O2 sensor? Vacuum leak? Has plenty of fluid... so kinda stumped at this point.
Did you surface heads and take care when installing quality replacement head gaskets and use new head bolts and properly torque? Does the rough idle always evident or more so during initial startup? Any steam from exhaust? Any misfire codes? Any signs of water contamination in oil? Sludge under cap? Had one that I did head gaskets on. Did not catch the slight warped heads. Did one side over after a rough idle and steam on start. Sat overnight and saw coolant with my video inspection camera. Week later the other side failed. Ended up both heads were warped from the initial overheating likely.
In the case that the codes persist after flushing engine, changing oil and replacing the OP switches, would the next logical step be to replace the OC Valves?
Got the same issue going on with my 09 subie. For the sealer for the switch, can I use some high temp gasket maker or is it a specific type of sealer? thanks for the video!
My 2011 Impreza does a yearly P026 since 2022. Once replaced with a new one it runs normal again until the following year? What could be the cause of this yearly dilemma? Thanks
@@ThecardoctorTV It's actually a factory part. I tested the ohms on the old part and it read 8 ohms and it actuates with 12 volts. The new part read exactly the same with 8 ohms.
I'm replacing a Bank 2 intake solenoid valve on a 2010 Subaru legacy, I have found the solenoid but how do I get the bolt off when there is a a brace covering the bolt? Do I need to take off the timing belt cover to gain a better access to the bolt?
I believe both are prone to leaking. I replaced valve cover gaskets on my 08 Impreza and I still have some leakage from the head gasket. (I only have to add a quart every couple months, so not worth fixing.)
...hi doc...my 92 subaru legacy has oil in my recovery cannister and radiator....not by the globs...or both systems are thick with oil...i can still see alot of green anti freeze in my radiator and i can still see thru to the bottom of my recovery cannister.....theres white smoke when i start the car...but goes away completely when i drive the car...i'm going to replace the oil pressure switch...oil filter and oil cooler gasket...or 0 ring....drain oil out...flush out coolant system...until clear water comes out...then use the UV 550000 coolant air purge unit...oh...before i use the UV 550000...I will refill with new oil....hopefully....this precedure will remove or prevent the oil showing up again.....if it shows up again in my recovery tank...or cannister....and my radiator....after i'm thru using the UV550000....then i guess i have a blown head gasket.....my question is....do you think i have a blown head gasket right now.....before i do the precedure explained above....? As you can tell...i'm a newbee at DIY'S....THANKS ANYWAYS THO....JP
Doc,Here's one for you;Same vehicle range (2006 Outback, 2.5 SOHC, stick), with extremely good self-service on the car ( 3K oil changes with Mobil 1) with just shy of 100K total (owned since new) and the car ISN'T currently throwing any codes, however, when the VVL should be kicking in around 4,000 rpm, the car acts like it's going to fall on its face and stumbles, with a fair amount of vavletrain noise, which is entirely a new phenomenon. Runs fine otherwise.No leaks around the typically affected areas of the switch and solenoid on either head.Any thoughts?I'm considering your approach to solving this since it's quite straightforward and inexpensive.Thank you, sir.
+irritablearchitect Hey, sorry I just noticed this comment. I have not run into your issue before but it makes me wonder if there is truly an oil pressure problem or other mechanical issue related to valve train. Did you figure anything out!
The Car Doctor Yeah. I had a pressure test performed on the exhaust; it was running way too low. Cat was obvious diagnosis, but again, no codes thrown! Pulled the first pipe and...OIL LEAK on the driver's side head gasket! So the engine came out and both heads came off for new gaskets and a clean up at the machine shop. I should probably be thankful this happened right at the same time I was replacing the timing set and water pump, along with the new pipe/cat and upstream O2 sensor. All is well now and I'm getting better MPG than ever. Thanks for the response.
I have a subaru impreza 2007 check engine on, cruise control light blinking, code P0506, I cleaned the throttle body, the car is running okay after that, but the lights still on! Thank you an advice!
Newbe Subaru owner, 2007 Outback, 2.5L SOHC. I see codes 0026 and 0028, but haven't see any reports of what I'm getting, P0076. Would the troubleshooting be the same?
I think they fixed the bad headgasket design in the previous generation for the 2.5l Owning a Subaru is a little like owning a Harley. External spotting leaks generally show up in their life with bad owners. Decent compression, not terrible leak down, a little oil won't hurt anything but the driveway
Hello! I have a similar problem on Outback 2007. Several times there was an error P0028, I dropped it. Then I changed the oil pressure sensor, after a while the error began to appear again and more often. Especially with aggressive driving (>4000rpm). I changed the solenoid valve (AVCS) on bank 2 and for a long time there was no errors, but today again a P0028 error has appeared. I do not know already what to do .. ((
So if I get both P0026 and P0028 (And I have) on my 2006 Subaru Outback, does that mean both sensors are faulty or could it be an Oil Pressure problem?
i just checked my mom's car that had just the check engine light on, it is having a weird idle thing happening and when she got it home she said she saw smoke but was not sure where that was coming from
+wyattoneable You have outstanding taste in fine music, distinctive headwear and of course a keen eye for the very best informational videos on youtube! My hats off to you...
Might be a silly question.... but if I’m getting both 0026 and 0028 codes and I want to replace both, is there a difference from the driver and passenger? Or once I find one I can just buy 2?
Tim my daughter wants to buy a Subaru but I don't think they are so great of a car . I hear everyone saying they love the car but I won't do that timing belt and head gasket job at 100K . I'll stick to my Chevy,s that match my skill set HAHA
+Steve Rob I say the head gaskets are due more around 80-90K but yes. If you go that route I suggest surfacing the heads, using quality gaskets, replacement bolts and doing the belt, water pump and pulleys while your in there. Its more like a 3000 job here probably less in the lesser 48 states. A nice 6.0 or 6.2L equipped Chev wont be leaking its vital fluids out even at 150K.
All the breakaway footage that showed the engine compartment views while I was talking. Its actually just the first half of the video that's affected. The second part is fine. Sad that my focus group and QC guys didn't catch this...
hi I have a 1996 subaru legacy outback 2.5 automatic transmission, car drives fine on Flat ground but when going up hills it feels like the breaks are being pushed and released , only does it when going up steep grades, the breaks are not sticking lol, think it something in trans , did a flush and filter change still no change, has 170k miles thanks
God bless you! Great video and thanks for no cussing! John 3:16 For God so loved the world that she gave His only begotten Son, that whosoever shall believeth in Him should not perish but have everlasting life.
Please note that the sensor has a "pipe" thread. Which means that the tread is tapered or wedge shaped. You only need to snug this down. I have seen a few where a home mechanic has over tightened it and cracked the housing causing a major oil leak and now needing a cylinder head replacement. Please look up the theories of Pipe threading and how it works if you're unfamiliar. This will not stop turning when its tight enough like most things. It will keep going and then "crack" your in trouble. Where the sensor screws into the head is thin aluminum be carefull
Thanks for the clear description in your video. It saved my bacon. The check engine lit off but it all seemed to run ok. I was close to home so I just parked it. Next day bought the switch, bought a 24mm deep socket and swapped out the part. The check engine indicator remained on until I cleared the alarm using my ODB App.
There is still a permanent alarm entry on the diagnostic log that the won't clear. Hopefully that is just a record that the problem occured and not that it is still present.
You are man of the match man. I went to two places, both saıd 250$, I dont want to talk more about them but today I replaced&solved it wıth 20/30$ with ease.
Thank you !
Very informative, great shots of the ACTUAL SENSOR, so many vids don't show such details. Thanks a bunch from a shade-tree self mechanic in Ohio.
Well done diagnostic video, concise and specific where the codes are concerned. Good presentation also. I do agree, that if you are so inclined a step by step tutorial would be helpful. However, for the majority of the wrench turners out here, you showing where the part was and a quick uninstall/install demo is really good enough. Thanks again and keep the videos coming.
Thanks! Had a P0026 and a P0028 code. Replaced both sensors from Subaru for $22 a piece. You do need a 24 deep socket to get them off. The only thing you need to watch out for is the threads for the sensor are very fine and need to be started by hand to avoid cross threading. Seems like the sensor next to the oil fill is covered in oil if someone has been careless filling the oil without a funnel. You may need a can of brake clean just to find it....
Good info. Thanks for dropping by!
i have code p0026 on my subaru forester...which sensor should i replace? is it an oil sensor, or something else? also, where is it located? ty
Thank you very much for making this video. It was the solution to my problem, and I was able to repair it myself.
This happens with honda owners also, they go way too far out on their oil changes and the vtec oil pressure sensors throw similar codes. KEEP YOUR OIL CHANGES CURRENT, PEOPLE! Thanks for the helpful video, I'm about to install a 2012 legacy longblock in a 2007 2.5i I just bought with a spun bearing (probably from lack of oil changes, lol)
Well good thing you'll probably have that motor swap done in an afternoon since they practically fall right out of the car. It is super sad to see what a lack of maintenance will do to a great car. Disturbing. Thanks for dropping by.
Great video and thanks for the info! Just had a P0028 come up on my '08 Outback after an oil change. I'm taking it back to the shop where I got the oil changed to make sure they properly filled it and that the filter is good. I had a P0026 issue abou 18 months ago and replacing the sensor did the trick in that case. I hope it's the same issue here.
Hope you get it fixed up. Thanks for watching.
Great video, this happened to my GF this morning and you arent lying, she freaked out hard :) Glad to know its likely a simple, cheap fix.
what kind of sealant is this? (gasket sealant?)
My guy doesn’t like talking to the camera 😅 big up for the vid and the tips , thanks !!
Super helpful video! My 2011 Subaru Outback is in need of this repair and it’s great to know what’s involved. You are the man!
Do not overtighten! Torque spec is only 12.5 ft lb otherwise you will crack the mounting head.
Good call! Thanks for the feedback and for watching
I didn't hear the click on the torque wrench Autozone lent me and i broke it. I had to JB Weld it and leave it in the Autozone parking lot for 24hrs, for safe measure.
Yeah I wish I would have read this 20 mins ago I just cracked mine trying job weld if it doesn’t work I don’t know what I’m going to do
You should do a step by step one where to find this sensor for the people who aren’t really car savvy like myself...
Will do. Sorry for not showing that.
is there a left bank vvt solinoid as well? Does it throw a different code or how do you know that it is not the solinoid?
Yes, P0026 is bank 1 or P0028 for bank 2
Replaced the sensor and did an oil change. How do you get the driver side solenoid out? It appears that the bolt holding it on is behind another sensor and I can't get a wrench on it.
Ted Walton bro I had the same issue but started taking it off. The round solenoid right under the VVT solenoid. There is a bolt holding the sensor in. Then a bolt above that holding the mount on. Take em off in that order. It’s a 10 mm gotta use the open end wrench for the first bolt and a socket for the mount. Once you get the mount bolt out pry the sensor mount off and it clears it out for you to get the bolt...
@@WeirdThor just had to say those were some good darn instructions you gave thanks!
What did you use for grease?
Thank you for the video so helpful
I have the P0026 code, but cannot get to a shop for a couple of days due to work schedule and weekend closing, is this safe to drive with this code?
great Video, appreciate the tip I will be looking into the issue on my wife's 09 forester tomorrow.
Excellent. Hope this helps. Good luck.
My 2004 subaru forester's (2.5L XS) oil at temp light will flash; usally when I first start the car, rarely when I am just driving; then when I come to a stop it will stall, everything locks up and I have to put it in park or neutral and restart the car. The issue comes and goes, some days it drives fine and nothing is wrong, others it'll just start blinking and eventually stall out. Fuel injectors were going bad, we replaced them. The battery died, we replaced it. We thought it was my alternator, we replaced that. The head gaskets were apparently replaced by a former owner. All of this checked off/replaced, what else is the problem. I'm tired of stalling out whenever I stop and I want to fix the problem. Any anywhere near possible answers??? I'm starting to become desperate.
(2007 Impreza) My driver's side VVL pressure switch is just spewing oil everywhere (also threw up a P0028 fault code). Took it to Subaru and was told I need to replace both the driver's and passenger's side. They are estimating ~2 hours of labor. Seems pretty unreasonable to me based on what I've read so far?
Thanks for the video, you were 100 percent correct , running great,
Too bad they weren't changing their oil regularly enough! I hear that's a big cause for head gasket failure. Good video! I'm about to replace my solenoid valve as well . . .
+Nicole Rachelle Well I think those head gaskets leak at 90K miles even if you change the oil regularly. Just a weakness of the engine but if you do them right and change the water pump and timing belt at the same time and maintain it regularly it will run forever. Good luck with your fix and thanks for the complements. Blessings.
Had the same error P0028 on my 06 Forester. I recently purchased it and new it possibly needed an oil change. After an oil change the error cleared up and running great again. I would recommend changing the oil first.
good call.
Part number for the drivers side?
Why does the video show the oil pressure switch being replaced. Its interesting that the actual VCT solenoid did not need to be changed.
So is it the same probably for a 2006 b9 Tribeca hboxer6 engine
I've changed all the oil sensor solenoid and I'm still getting CEL and flashing cruis control. I don't what to do. We thought the ECU may have had a problem coz we reset it several times and changed it to a new ecu and still having the same problem. What should I do next.
I'm sure you've already fixed it, but for someone who hasn't what fixed it for me (my AT OIL TEMP light was also flashing) was a wheel speed position sensor on the associated "wheel"
Oh my gosh your so helpful what solanoid when you pop the hood and looking at the engine is on the left back side of the engine
Hey Great Video! I have an 07 subaru impreza. I have noticed a smell of burning oil, and a small oil build up around the sensor you just replaced. Check engine light never came on, but was wondering if oil could possibly be leaking from the sensor. Thanks
+Jerry Cribbs Absolutely. It happens. There is oil pressure behind the switch so when it begins to fail it can start leaking oil. Good find! Please subscribe and stop back again soon.
When the P0026 and P0028 is fixed what will you notice? Improved gas milage? Better performance?
got Check Engine light on a few years ago. Went to a local shop and the scan showed P0026. But the shop cleared or reset code and suddenly lose power and acceleration and gas consumption increased 15% = losing 60miles per tank.
Then a few weeks later, check engine light on again and went to dealer shop who said the car needed new oil pressure switch and since then Check Engine light never comes on again BUT the power/acceleration/ gas consumption never got back to normal.... Recently tried replacing Solenoid (Bank 1), still not help.
Appreciate your opinion
Pulling off the interstate and before coming to a complete stop my 2010 subaru impreza started shaking and all the dash lights went crazy. The car stopped working and wouldn't start again. Towed it home. It threw both codes p0026 and p0028. Changed out both oil sensor switches and topped off the oil. It was a quart low. Had changed it less than 3 months ago. But car still won't start. Any ideas where I go from here? Thanks. Hoping the engine is not seized up. Car has 136k.
Good tips there if one runs into those codes on the Subarus and good info on how to take care of them. Keep up the good work!
+stuzman52 Pretty straight forward stuff but might help someone out in a pinch. I got to show off my new hat so its a win win! Blessings!
07 Legacy, pulled code P0117 plus the P0026 and P0028 mentioned in here. Just recently replaced radiator, intake, head gaskets... but hearing slosh noise near dash from air buildup, now car runs rough idle. O2 sensor? Vacuum leak? Has plenty of fluid... so kinda stumped at this point.
Did you surface heads and take care when installing quality replacement head gaskets and use new head bolts and properly torque? Does the rough idle always evident or more so during initial startup? Any steam from exhaust? Any misfire codes? Any signs of water contamination in oil? Sludge under cap? Had one that I did head gaskets on. Did not catch the slight warped heads. Did one side over after a rough idle and steam on start. Sat overnight and saw coolant with my video inspection camera. Week later the other side failed. Ended up both heads were warped from the initial overheating likely.
Volvo s40 running lean
In the case that the codes persist after flushing engine, changing oil and replacing the OP switches, would the next logical step be to replace the OC Valves?
Check oil pressure and it may have an issue with the control valve.
Could you recommend a good OBD2 reader that would be good for diag'ing something like this?
Thanks for the video, really helpful with my son's Subaru!
I believe you blink once every 45 seconds. (Wink emoji)
Wow, that's more than usual. ;)
Thanks for this. Good info as well.
Part number(s) in the description would be nice too. But good video. Thanks.
Thanks for the help! Just wondering what kind of sealant you would recommend putting on the threads?
Probably permatex
Oil changes have been up to date. The switch was changed around 2 1/2 months ago & the code keeps coming back. What’s your take on this?
Excellent information!
So basically what’s this code mean, is there any short compilation
Awesome.Very thorough explanation. I will try this tomorrow. Thanks!
Thanks. Good luck.
Got the same issue going on with my 09 subie. For the sealer for the switch, can I use some high temp gasket maker or is it a specific type of sealer? thanks for the video!
you can use that or even thread tape. Just don't get any sealant around the end of the sensor
The Car Doctor gotcha, thanks again for the video. DIY guys like me really rely on these yt vids
Hi thanks for video, I have same problem on my Subaru Outback 2006. Should I replace only oil pressure switch or oil control valve also?
+Zviad Oragvelidze Since the switch is cheap and easy I would toss one in and see if that helps. Let us know what you come up with.
@@ThecardoctorTV Hmmmm j him
Hi I got code p0700 on my 09 forester plus 3 more code any help?
My 2011 Impreza does a yearly P026 since 2022. Once replaced with a new one it runs normal again until the following year? What could be the cause of this yearly dilemma? Thanks
@@mytoyota80junk part?
@@ThecardoctorTV It's actually a factory part. I tested the ohms on the old part and it read 8 ohms and it actuates with 12 volts. The new part read exactly the same with 8 ohms.
I'm replacing a Bank 2 intake solenoid valve on a 2010 Subaru legacy, I have found the solenoid but how do I get the bolt off when there is a a brace covering the bolt? Do I need to take off the timing belt cover to gain a better access to the bolt?
Yes you do
When you say oil leak from head gasket are you saying valve cover gasket or the actual head sealing gasket.
I believe both are prone to leaking. I replaced valve cover gaskets on my 08 Impreza and I still have some leakage from the head gasket. (I only have to add a quart every couple months, so not worth fixing.)
...hi doc...my 92 subaru legacy has oil in my recovery cannister and radiator....not by the globs...or both systems are thick with oil...i can still see alot of green anti freeze in my radiator and i can still see thru to the bottom of my recovery cannister.....theres white smoke when i start the car...but goes away completely when i drive the car...i'm going to replace the oil pressure switch...oil filter and oil cooler gasket...or 0 ring....drain oil out...flush out coolant system...until clear water comes out...then use the UV 550000 coolant air purge unit...oh...before i use the UV 550000...I will refill with new oil....hopefully....this precedure will remove or prevent the oil showing up again.....if it shows up again in my recovery tank...or cannister....and my radiator....after i'm thru using the UV550000....then i guess i have a blown head gasket.....my question is....do you think i have a blown head gasket right now.....before i do the precedure explained above....? As you can tell...i'm a newbee at DIY'S....THANKS ANYWAYS THO....JP
Doc,Here's one for you;Same vehicle range (2006 Outback, 2.5 SOHC, stick), with extremely good self-service on the car ( 3K oil changes with Mobil 1) with just shy of 100K total (owned since new) and the car ISN'T currently throwing any codes, however, when the VVL should be kicking in around 4,000 rpm, the car acts like it's going to fall on its face and stumbles, with a fair amount of vavletrain noise, which is entirely a new phenomenon. Runs fine otherwise.No leaks around the typically affected areas of the switch and solenoid on either head.Any thoughts?I'm considering your approach to solving this since it's quite straightforward and inexpensive.Thank you, sir.
+irritablearchitect Hey, sorry I just noticed this comment. I have not run into your issue before but it makes me wonder if there is truly an oil pressure problem or other mechanical issue related to valve train. Did you figure anything out!
The Car Doctor Yeah. I had a pressure test performed on the exhaust; it was running way too low. Cat was obvious diagnosis, but again, no codes thrown!
Pulled the first pipe and...OIL LEAK on the driver's side head gasket! So the engine came out and both heads came off for new gaskets and a clean up at the machine shop.
I should probably be thankful this happened right at the same time I was replacing the timing set and water pump, along with the new pipe/cat and upstream O2 sensor.
All is well now and I'm getting better MPG than ever.
Thanks for the response.
OH wow, im glad your MPG is improved...sounds like you need to save some money on gas to help pay for the repairs. Take care!
I have a subaru impreza 2007 check engine on, cruise control light blinking, code P0506, I cleaned the throttle body, the car is running okay after that, but the lights still on! Thank you an advice!
You'll need to clear the code.
Do you have the part # for the P0026 part?
No but a parts store will. Thanks for watching
@@ThecardoctorTV replacing the passenger oil pressure sensor fixed it for me. Thanks for the video! $15 fix
@@stevegoss9791 hi, am i replacing an oil pressure sensor or a vvt sensor? i have the same code you had..p0026 for 2009 forester. ty
@@healthyamerican I ended up just replacing the oil pressure sensor and it fixed my issue on the Legacy.
Newbe Subaru owner, 2007 Outback, 2.5L SOHC. I see codes 0026 and 0028, but haven't see any reports of what I'm getting, P0076. Would the troubleshooting be the same?
Pretty much. Most likely the control solenoid is at fault but be sure to check oil condition and level.
I think they fixed the bad headgasket design in the previous generation for the 2.5l Owning a Subaru is a little like owning a Harley. External spotting leaks generally show up in their life with bad owners. Decent compression, not terrible leak down, a little oil won't hurt anything but the driveway
Hello! I have a similar problem on Outback 2007. Several times there was an error P0028, I dropped it.
Then I changed the oil pressure sensor, after a while the error began to appear again and more often. Especially with aggressive driving (>4000rpm).
I changed the solenoid valve (AVCS) on bank 2 and for a long time there was no errors, but today again a P0028 error has appeared. I do not know already what to do .. ((
I’m having a very similar issue, was there a decline in power once your got to 4k rpm and also did it struggle to accelerate and shake at 4k?
So if I get both P0026 and P0028 (And I have) on my 2006 Subaru Outback, does that mean both sensors are faulty or could it be an Oil Pressure problem?
Yes
What was the product code for the part. Part number I mean
i just checked my mom's car that had just the check engine light on, it is having a weird idle thing happening and when she got it home she said she saw smoke but was not sure where that was coming from
Wow Alaska. When I heard that i was like damn, there's mechanics all over the place...I thought you were from Florida or Arizona.
If you saw how white my legs are you would know im from way up north! :)
Great video! Thanks for the help!
I like the music in the intro, I like the hat, and I like the information. It's all good!
+wyattoneable You have outstanding taste in fine music, distinctive headwear and of course a keen eye for the very best informational videos on youtube! My hats off to you...
Thanks for sharing, very useful video
Sure, glad it helped
Thanks for this!
What’s the part number???
Good video, but you need to blink, man!
If you don't have something nice to say, don't say it at all. This guy did an excellent job and doesn't need unconstructive criticism.
Check out the definition of humor; lighten up.
@mikestang420 If that's a joke to you, you're about as funny as Amy Schumer. All good over here Francis.
good info. nice fix
+Ozzstar Thank you, It was an easy fix. Thanks for dropping by.
Might be a silly question.... but if I’m getting both 0026 and 0028 codes and I want to replace both, is there a difference from the driver and passenger? Or once I find one I can just buy 2?
Thank you!!!! It worked!!! 👍
Another success story!
Thanks bro
part number??
ruclips.net/video/DbLrH67OHmw/видео.html
Part number shown in video at the above time
Do yourselves a favor and buy one from subaru if you can went thru 4 of these aftermarket finally got a oem one and haven't had a problem since
Less talk more action 😁 so we can see where exactly is the sensors
Nice video good job Northeast Automotive rochester ny
Thanks for tuning in!
Переведите кто нибудь что он говорит о ошибке 0026
Tim my daughter wants to buy a Subaru but I don't think they are so great of a car . I hear everyone saying they love the car but I won't do that timing belt and head gasket job at 100K . I'll stick to my Chevy,s that match my skill set HAHA
+Steve Rob I say the head gaskets are due more around 80-90K but yes. If you go that route I suggest surfacing the heads, using quality gaskets, replacement bolts and doing the belt, water pump and pulleys while your in there. Its more like a 3000 job here probably less in the lesser 48 states. A nice 6.0 or 6.2L equipped Chev wont be leaking its vital fluids out even at 150K.
+Steve Rob I just noticed all my B-Roll footage is totally out of whack on this vid. How sad. Im going to have to do another re-do. Crud
Really, ha what's a B-roll, man it looked fine to me.
All the breakaway footage that showed the engine compartment views while I was talking. Its actually just the first half of the video that's affected. The second part is fine. Sad that my focus group and QC guys didn't catch this...
+Steve Rob * Except tor the daughter part, You said just what I was going to say. Great minds think alike!
thank you
Thank you sir
You bet!
hi I have a 1996 subaru legacy outback 2.5 automatic transmission, car drives fine on Flat ground but when going up hills it feels like the breaks are being pushed and released , only does it when going up steep grades, the breaks are not sticking lol, think it something in trans , did a flush and filter change still no change, has 170k miles thanks
thanks
This came on but my car shut off
Load up the parts cannon!!!
P1710!
DO YOUR EYES EVER BLINK?
I try not to blink because every time I do my subaru check engine light comes on.
:Greatsuccess: lol
Awesome!
Chat chat chat chat too much
God bless you! Great video and thanks for no cussing!
John 3:16
For God so loved the world that she gave His only begotten Son, that whosoever shall believeth in Him should not perish but have everlasting life.
По русскому бы (((
Скопируйте тесктовый транскрипт видеоролика в переводчик "Гугл".
Too much talking no action
Sounds like you learned from the best
Thanks. Very useful.