Things this video did exceptionally: 1) Clearly explained it so everyone could understand 2) Clearly showed all the parts impacted 3) Well lit 4) Clear audio I wish every instructional video was as well done as yours!
I love how its okay to put down literally millions of pounds of oil soaked mixed rock tar on the ground, but if you use a can of brake cleaner the epa and the state lose their sh!t. Once again, great video and diagnostics bud. Don't ever be afraid to go full Eric O with the brake cleaner, its a proven method of cleaning...lol.
I love this type of videos where it shows the foundation of the system and the electrical portion giving you a code for circuit on solenoid I believe those thumbs down already replace solenoids for those codes and now they get upset to you jajja. Thank you Ivan
Nice find. I had P0026 twice now. Next time I would definitely check that screen for cleaning. I replaced the VVT solenoid 2X and the code never came back til a year later. Dealer said try to do a 3K oil change instead of the 3750 miles intervals. Thanks a bunch man.
Even after wrenching all day, I come home and don't want to hear about car issues...Unfortunately I love to learn, and when I see your channel has a new video I have to watch because you will absolutely always teach me something new. Thanks, brotha'!
Excellent video and helped me solve the same issue with a 2005 Subaru Legacy 3.0 H6 (6 cylinder engine) 164,000 miles. P0028 would come on but only when the engine was hot and only if you pushed the revs up. New oil and full on the dipstick, new pressure switch, solenoid valve clicked and could be seen moving when housing was removed . Same apparent cause - clogged mesh filter in the small housing seen in the video. I didn't have the lumpy black deposits seen in this video but the filter mesh was clogged with finer particles. Cleaned it out - compressed air and paint thinner rather than the full Eric O brake cleaner - cheaper! - refitted and no code anymore. For anyone doing the job on a H6 a couple of comments - 1. On the 6-cylinder engine the solenoid valves and housing are on the back of the engine - 1 each side. Housing shape is similar but not quite the same as the one in the video. 2. Bolts are small - M6 - go easy on them. I didn't snap any but they were tight. They are also hard to access but you can get to them all from above ...just about. (Easier to see them from underneath the car.) For drivers side need to disconnect a coolant pipe and drain the radiator to get at one of the 5 bolts. You'll also need a variety of different lengths of wobble bars to get to them on the drivers side - steering column in the way. Passenger side easier. 3. The screen was difficult to remove. It didn't have the two tabs seen in the video so there was nothing to grip. It would slide up and down in the cavity but it was a bugger to get it past the lip at the surface. The mesh is very fine steel and easy to puncture so no picks into the mesh to try and pull on it. It will rip! 3. Flush out the housing too. Mine had a lot of magnetic fines in it. 4. Gasket. It's very stiff and magnetic (!!). The official manual states use a new gasket. I used the old one with a thin smear of silicone gasket maker on both surfaces. With the bolts torqued in the correct sequence and to the recommended torque there were no leaks.
Nice diagnosis & repair Ivan...clogged screens & sticking solenoids all b/c of improper oil changes..."Pay now or pay later and later gets expensive" It's called preventative maintenance for a reason!
could i run some mystery marvel oil right before an oil change, with the goal of clearing out that screen? we have a p0026 bank one code. first step is to do the oil change for us.
On 2 cycle screens, if they are all metal, I use a propane torch to burn out all the carbon. It's really easy and quick to do. It's amazing how just keeping things clean can increase the longevity of ANY engine.
Andrew W MacFadyen Yeah exactly. Just have to make sure it's all metal because they put so much plastic in cars today. I've pulled out carb screens before loaded down with varnish and burned them because I had no carb cleaner with me.
Good catch. One thing to keep in mind for NYSI that the repair shops will RARELY mention (as quite a few are greedy) There is a provision to get a 1 year exemption to the emission inspection. It was put into place due to some of the repairs being extremely expensive (think P0420.....) Provided no physical damage to the parts, and all is intact. The state will allow any car/truck to pass for that additional 1 year grace period if the owner has receipts showing they spent at least $450.00 in an effort to repair the problem. I say "Greedy" because my sister had a local well known "muffler and brake shop" quote her over $2k for replacement converter and told her flat out "Oh that exemption is only good if you spend over $4000.00 on trying to get it fixed.". This of course is after the shop replaced all 4 O2 sensors TWICE!.... Seems no one could read a scan tool at that shop, or read the NYSI rule book.
Nice one Ivan. You know I recently looked at my mates Subaru which had set codes for this issue. I remembered the one you looked at ages back and sure enough. Crud in the oil. I was able to fix it with an oil change. Its a lot better now. Thanks for the info about the solenoids. I may well pull them and clean the screens out when my friend wants his timing belt doing.
This was the first one I've seen where an oil change didn't solve the problem. Make sure you change out those solenoid-to-head mating gaskets before reinstallation to prevent any extra oil leaks :)
Ivan I never put fresh oil in a dirty engine, so i first add a Motor flush and let it run 20min with reving up several times and then drain the old oil and refill with the new oil. It helps a lot. Sometimes i have to do it again. But anyways a nice vid.
I'm going to have to limp back and forth this week until I get time this weekend to do what you're doing and hope it fixes my issue... I have an 06' Legacy and it didn't start until after I was on my way home on a 3 hour drive in the rain and some idiot woman in a punch buggy almost forced me off the road cutting me off on a high turn on a falling slope at 80mph and after passing her with my emotions high I had just put my foot to the floor and as the engine tried to keep up and handle what I was giving it, it made some rattling noises(if I remember correctly) and shortly after the check engine light popped on and I noticed it wasn't accelerating like normal after this incident. So I ran my ODBII and got the P0026/28 codes but didn't drive after that day. Today I went out to get some stuff for work and had issues starting and then while revving to each gear the engine was making some clacking noises but only at the higher RPMs and almost idles out (and did once) when dropping to an idle. If you have any advice you can throw my way other than pulling out the switch and cleaning it I would truly appreciate it. I'm not in a great position to spend the money at a garage so I'm left to do this myself... Thanks for reading -Will
Same issue, ordered ebay parts to try them first, didn’t solve. The screen in passenger side was clogged. But looking at my 2009 I see there’s an extra sensor only on passenger side, driver side doesn’t have. So I wonder if that screen is just on passenger side? Runs good now.
best place I've found for those filter screens is piled on the back of work bench or the floor :) more so the turbo oil screen. even with meticulous oil changes they plug up solid
On Renault/Nissan Turbo Diesels changing the turbo oil feed pipe is a must before 80,000 miles to avoid shrapnel from the turbo exiting through the cylinders.
yup typical Subaru ownership. Have seen this soooo many times. They run so well and don't have an "oil life reminder" system that people simply forget to maintain them! My theory is that *most* Subaru owners buy them because they are so capable and versatile. However, they are generally clueless as to how a car works and what it needs to stay healthy...and never look at the owner's manual either lol
This is a great video. I don't know why I haven't subscribed to this channel yet. I've come across this channel before. Keep up this great work guys/guy. The diagnosis and thought process, and the level of explaining, it's all very good. I hope I take a look at mine and they're clogged as shit -- so I can have a relatively easy maintenance day or two. Thanks.
Do you have any tips or steps on the removal of the Bank 1 part as you did? How may bolts, size? Did much oil leak? Are electrical connectors difficult to remove? Tip on removing screen...needle nose?
Cool diagnosis/fix. I wonder if that screen is available aftermarket or a dealer only part or even available for that matter. Since it was metal, I assume (like you did) that it should be cleanable. Maybe soak it in some carb-cleaner for little while to really clean it out?
A top grade ester based fully synthetic engine oil will be safe for much longer oil change intervals even in problem engine designs. Cheap mineral oils that break down into sludge and varnish, synthetic oils especially ester based synthetics don't t. Although expensive ester base stock oils are best even the cheapest supermarket fully synthetic oils which are blended from cheaper base stock are 10 times better for an engine than even the most expensive mineral oil.
I can only imagine the problems these VVT engines will have when they get old and they start burning oil or you need to put heavier weight oil in there to keep it from burning.
I agree Ivan. I have an 07 350z that has VVT for the intake and exhaust cams. My Z has over 100k miles on it and a good chunk of those are really hard track miles, I'm talking hard on the rev limiter, drifting track miles. My car has always seen regular oil changes with quality oil and I've never had a single problem with it.
Well, it's not like anyone took video of the "crime" taking place, with positive ID of the location in the background, and then posted it on the internet or anything. Lol.
I need to replace this part. Would love to see a video as to how to get this part off. Not sure how many components need to come off to get this thing out....Thanks!!!
Subaru seem to like those screens and banjo bolts for oil delivery to the VVT and turbo. I guess screens would do their job up to the point that they clog off. It makes me wonder if good maintenance and frequent oil filter changes would make screens unnecessary. It's a little annoying when Subaru require more frequent full synthetic oil changes compared to other vehicles (3750 miles in their turbo models). They must know something about their failure pattern with extended oil change intervals.
That tells me that the regular oil filter probably failed and needs to be changed at the same time. Because it's probably old and now has holes in it, which is allowing this gunk to bypass the main filter and now it clogs that little screen in a hurry; and it will clog it fast again if the oil and filter aren't changed right away.
On a lot of new cars they now recommend just removing the screens after its first service after initial run in stage. Its just really to just catch swarf.
I cleaned the screens on both of my OCVs on my Toyota and they weren't even that dirty and my engine had 170k miles at the time. That's crazy how full that screen was.
I’m confused. Did you remove the whole part. Or did you just remove the valve timing that was attached by one bolt? It looks like the whole part. But I don’t know how to properly remove it…
I’m throwing this code on my 07,p0026 oil started leaking from the switch. Misfires when you give it too much gas or drive up a hill. changed the solenoid, new pressure switch (leak is gone but still misfiring) and opened up the housing to find a clean screen. Not sure where to go next, engine flush?
Do you think it's possible to clean that screen somehow on the driver side without removing that whole piece? The reason being, apparently you've got take off the timing belt and camshaft sprocket just to get to it! Subie Impreza is throwing P0028. I've replaced the oil pressure sensor (easy and cheap). The solenoid I've tested that as much as possible: I can hear it operate by running 12V to it and the coil ohm reading seems good. I can't even get the solenoid out because a small bracket blocks access. Subaru says to just replace that it's the timing belt whole thing again! Terrible design on that side. I'm wondering if I can hose that screen out somehow by removing the oil pressure sensor and maybe the solenoid (by grinding the blocked bracket area away) and squirting in there? Got any thoughts?
I found that is not variable timing at all it's one of the intake valves either on or off and gas pools in one of the valves while it's doing this very dumbe design.
my 2006 subaru forester has this code i think, we checked it but i forget what it was but im pretty sure it was this code. but my car is chugging through gas, would this be a side effect from the code?
Nice fix, especially when no part required... BTW, I think crazy Joe had a bother in the retail electronics business years ago who went by the name Crazy Eddie...;)
Curious if you know where I can purchase that small filter, or have a part number for it? Mine was completely blown out! Don't want to run it with new solenoid and not that small filter
oil filters have a bypass valve when pressure gets too high, it can open and pass unfiltered oil when they don't change oil and the filter is very dirty or it's cold, with heavy/thickened oil and ding-dong driver revs it to death :) cars with out over-pressure bypass oil filters, mostly have the bypass valve built into the oil pan or the block.
Black gunge is made of fine particles suspended in the oil that can pass through any fillter but they tend to stick together and form clumps. Synthetic oil dosen't break down into black gunge and varnishes to anything like the same extent, it also has intrinsic solvent properties that clean the oilways.
Hola. Quiero hacer unas consultas respecto a un problema en mi Subaru 2006 2.0r automático. Falla la marcha lenta, al llegar a un semáforo y pisar el freno comienza a variar las RPM de 900 a 1000 y se deja de hacerlo una vez que dejo el cambio en "D", "N" o suelto y vuelvo a pisar el freno rápidamente. También he probado reiniciando la ECU quitando la batería por 20 min, queda espectacular muy estable el motor funcionando pero al cabo de 80 o 100 kilómetros vuelve el problema. Alguna idea? Gracias.
I don't think this is a maintenance issue. If it was, it wouldn't have 150k miles on it. Those screens are made to get clogged. To have 150k miles on it, I would say they did a good job staying unclogged that long.
At least there was a visible cause to the failure. GM 4cyl solenoids fail between 40k and 60k with no visible reason. I have done so many that I stock the parts.
Awesome video as usual! I I think multi weight motor oil INCREASES viscosity as it heats up. 5 weight when it's cold and 20 weight when it's hot, for example.
Nah, it still thins. But...it acts like a 5 should act when at cold temperatures...and flows like a 20 would when hot (around 100C/212F.) The viscosity still varies logarithmically with temperature, but the change in viscosity is lessened.
Kirkland battery = Walmart oil change. Walmart oil change = Not changing oil for a year or better. Not changing your oil for a year or better + modern engine = problems lady. It is a simple formula.
Cheap super market synthetic oils are Okay a 100 times better than mineral oils and to a lesser extent semi-synthetic oils. The best oils are ester based long life synthetics such as Mobile 1 but they are expensive.
Things this video did exceptionally:
1) Clearly explained it so everyone could understand
2) Clearly showed all the parts impacted
3) Well lit
4) Clear audio
I wish every instructional video was as well done as yours!
Man I just love the way you approach diagnosing a problem
I am adopting from you the same approach her in Jamaica
Hey Anthony, thanks for the kind words!
I love how its okay to put down literally millions of pounds of oil soaked mixed rock tar on the ground, but if you use a can of brake cleaner the epa and the state lose their sh!t. Once again, great video and diagnostics bud. Don't ever be afraid to go full Eric O with the brake cleaner, its a proven method of cleaning...lol.
I love this type of videos where it shows the foundation of the system and the electrical portion giving you a code for circuit on solenoid I believe those thumbs down already replace solenoids for those codes and now they get upset to you jajja. Thank you Ivan
Nice find. I had P0026 twice now. Next time I would definitely check that screen for cleaning. I replaced the VVT solenoid 2X and the code never came back til a year later. Dealer said try to do a 3K oil change instead of the 3750 miles intervals. Thanks a bunch man.
Even after wrenching all day, I come home and don't want to hear about car issues...Unfortunately I love to learn, and when I see your channel has a new video I have to watch because you will absolutely always teach me something new. Thanks, brotha'!
Anytime, Bobby. Happy to share a fun case study. Thank for the comment!
Great Ivan I must say I haven't run into this yet and we see a fair amount of Subarus so glad you did this one.
Excellent video and helped me solve the same issue with a 2005 Subaru Legacy 3.0 H6 (6 cylinder engine) 164,000 miles. P0028 would come on but only when the engine was hot and only if you pushed the revs up. New oil and full on the dipstick, new pressure switch, solenoid valve clicked and could be seen moving when housing was removed . Same apparent cause - clogged mesh filter in the small housing seen in the video. I didn't have the lumpy black deposits seen in this video but the filter mesh was clogged with finer particles. Cleaned it out - compressed air and paint thinner rather than the full Eric O brake cleaner - cheaper! - refitted and no code anymore. For anyone doing the job on a H6 a couple of comments - 1. On the 6-cylinder engine the solenoid valves and housing are on the back of the engine - 1 each side. Housing shape is similar but not quite the same as the one in the video. 2. Bolts are small - M6 - go easy on them. I didn't snap any but they were tight. They are also hard to access but you can get to them all from above ...just about. (Easier to see them from underneath the car.) For drivers side need to disconnect a coolant pipe and drain the radiator to get at one of the 5 bolts. You'll also need a variety of different lengths of wobble bars to get to them on the drivers side - steering column in the way. Passenger side easier. 3. The screen was difficult to remove. It didn't have the two tabs seen in the video so there was nothing to grip. It would slide up and down in the cavity but it was a bugger to get it past the lip at the surface. The mesh is very fine steel and easy to puncture so no picks into the mesh to try and pull on it. It will rip! 3. Flush out the housing too. Mine had a lot of magnetic fines in it. 4. Gasket. It's very stiff and magnetic (!!). The official manual states use a new gasket. I used the old one with a thin smear of silicone gasket maker on both surfaces. With the bolts torqued in the correct sequence and to the recommended torque there were no leaks.
Excellent tips! I'm about to do this on a 3.0H6...actually quite a rare engine!
Here we go again. It looks like another case where the oil should have been changed and this could be avoided. Nice one Ivan.
Nice diagnosis & repair Ivan...clogged screens & sticking solenoids all b/c of improper oil changes..."Pay now or pay later and later gets expensive" It's called preventative maintenance for a reason!
Did you re-use the gasket when you put it back together?
smart guy.....true mechanic.....will fix things, not throw parts at it.....great video:)
could i run some mystery marvel oil right before an oil change, with the goal of clearing out that screen? we have a p0026 bank one code. first step is to do the oil change for us.
On 2 cycle screens, if they are all metal, I use a propane torch to burn out all the carbon. It's really easy and quick to do. It's amazing how just keeping things clean can increase the longevity of ANY engine.
We used to do that on crankcase breather screens on Chrysler UK engines.
Andrew W MacFadyen Yeah exactly. Just have to make sure it's all metal because they put so much plastic in cars today. I've pulled out carb screens before loaded down with varnish and burned them because I had no carb cleaner with me.
Fna...this dude is the shizznit! It's guys like this that adds to the Sube community in ways that will resound thru the ages... Thanx bro
Wow, you're learning so much over at the SIE. Lucky guy. Thanks Ivan!
Impressive, a lost art, it's great to see young men with your skills.
Good catch. One thing to keep in mind for NYSI that the repair shops will RARELY mention (as quite a few are greedy) There is a provision to get a 1 year exemption to the emission inspection. It was put into place due to some of the repairs being extremely expensive (think P0420.....) Provided no physical damage to the parts, and all is intact. The state will allow any car/truck to pass for that additional 1 year grace period if the owner has receipts showing they spent at least $450.00 in an effort to repair the problem.
I say "Greedy" because my sister had a local well known "muffler and brake shop" quote her over $2k for replacement converter and told her flat out "Oh that exemption is only good if you spend over $4000.00 on trying to get it fixed.". This of course is after the shop replaced all 4 O2 sensors TWICE!.... Seems no one could read a scan tool at that shop, or read the NYSI rule book.
Wow good fix Ivan no parts required good job
Nice one Ivan. You know I recently looked at my mates Subaru which had set codes for this issue. I remembered the one you looked at ages back and sure enough. Crud in the oil. I was able to fix it with an oil change. Its a lot better now. Thanks for the info about the solenoids. I may well pull them and clean the screens out when my friend wants his timing belt doing.
This was the first one I've seen where an oil change didn't solve the problem. Make sure you change out those solenoid-to-head mating gaskets before reinstallation to prevent any extra oil leaks :)
Ivan I never put fresh oil in a dirty engine, so i first add a Motor flush and let it run 20min with reving up several times and then drain the old oil and refill with the new oil. It helps a lot. Sometimes i have to do it again. But anyways a nice vid.
Thanks so much for your video. I don't have the issue on my Subaru but if I ever did I know what to do. Great diagnostics on your part!
I'm going to have to limp back and forth this week until I get time this weekend to do what you're doing and hope it fixes my issue... I have an 06' Legacy and it didn't start until after I was on my way home on a 3 hour drive in the rain and some idiot woman in a punch buggy almost forced me off the road cutting me off on a high turn on a falling slope at 80mph and after passing her with my emotions high I had just put my foot to the floor and as the engine tried to keep up and handle what I was giving it, it made some rattling noises(if I remember correctly) and shortly after the check engine light popped on and I noticed it wasn't accelerating like normal after this incident. So I ran my ODBII and got the P0026/28 codes but didn't drive after that day. Today I went out to get some stuff for work and had issues starting and then while revving to each gear the engine was making some clacking noises but only at the higher RPMs and almost idles out (and did once) when dropping to an idle. If you have any advice you can throw my way other than pulling out the switch and cleaning it I would truly appreciate it. I'm not in a great position to spend the money at a garage so I'm left to do this myself... Thanks for reading -Will
Same issue, ordered ebay parts to try them first, didn’t solve. The screen in passenger side was clogged. But looking at my 2009 I see there’s an extra sensor only on passenger side, driver side doesn’t have. So I wonder if that screen is just on passenger side? Runs good now.
Do you know the name of the screen part?
“Camshaft screen”?
“Variable Valve Lift” screen?
best place I've found for those filter screens is piled on the back of work bench or the floor :)
more so the turbo oil screen. even with meticulous oil changes they plug up solid
On Renault/Nissan Turbo Diesels changing the turbo oil feed pipe is a must before 80,000 miles to avoid shrapnel from the turbo exiting through the cylinders.
It's raining in NY, thanks for taking us along Ivan :-)
engine oil was neglected, then changed when it was too late!
yup typical Subaru ownership. Have seen this soooo many times. They run so well and don't have an "oil life reminder" system that people simply forget to maintain them! My theory is that *most* Subaru owners buy them because they are so capable and versatile. However, they are generally clueless as to how a car works and what it needs to stay healthy...and never look at the owner's manual either lol
Can usually tell when Ivan troubleshoots an interesting one because he will rub or scratch his head near the beginning.
:)
This is a great video. I don't know why I haven't subscribed to this channel yet. I've come across this channel before. Keep up this great work guys/guy. The diagnosis and thought process, and the level of explaining, it's all very good.
I hope I take a look at mine and they're clogged as shit -- so I can have a relatively easy maintenance day or two.
Thanks.
Welcome to the channel, hopefully you will find the other content useful and informative :)
Do you have any tips or steps on the removal of the Bank 1 part as you did? How may bolts, size? Did much oil leak? Are electrical connectors difficult to remove? Tip on removing screen...needle nose?
Nothin to it but to do it! Super easy :)
If you come with the Eric O brake clean sound effect then you really got him. haha. Really nice video!
Cool diagnosis/fix. I wonder if that screen is available aftermarket or a dealer only part or even available for that matter. Since it was metal, I assume (like you did) that it should be cleanable. Maybe soak it in some carb-cleaner for little while to really clean it out?
Variable valve timing means that 3000mi oil changes aren't just optional, they're mandatory.
So much this!
A top grade ester based fully synthetic engine oil will be safe for much longer oil change intervals even in problem engine designs. Cheap mineral oils that break down into sludge and varnish, synthetic oils especially ester based synthetics don't t. Although expensive ester base stock oils are best even the cheapest supermarket fully synthetic oils which are blended from cheaper base stock are 10 times better for an engine than even the most expensive mineral oil.
I think synthetic oil and following the manufacturers recommended intervals is the recipe for engine health :)
I can only imagine the problems these VVT engines will have when they get old and they start burning oil or you need to put heavier weight oil in there to keep it from burning.
I agree Ivan. I have an 07 350z that has VVT for the intake and exhaust cams. My Z has over 100k miles on it and a good chunk of those are really hard track miles, I'm talking hard on the rev limiter, drifting track miles. My car has always seen regular oil changes with quality oil and I've never had a single problem with it.
Great explanation where is your shop ?
State College, PA!
With regards to spraying brake clean on the ground in NY, it's only illegal if you get caught. :)
Well, it's not like anyone took video of the "crime" taking place, with positive ID of the location in the background, and then posted it on the internet or anything. Lol.
george carlin said spitting on the sidewak is a crime - puking is free !!!!!!!
Zib187 lol
Yes we are here to fix your vehicle , please ignore all the rainbows we've created
Zib187 everybody in NYC should be handed a bottle of brake clean I'm sure the city will look amazing afterwards
I am curious as to when you and your wife are moving to Staten Island?
According to my wife, never xD
Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics Smart woman!
amadafaka oh stop it .. it's awesome here and you know it
New Level Auto Lol. If I can get paid enough to live in Todt Hill I would.
HAHAHA! No offense Keith ... but if I were offered free housing AND $2-MIL to move to NYC, I'd pass. :)
I need to replace this part. Would love to see a video as to how to get this part off. Not sure how many components need to come off to get this thing out....Thanks!!!
ruclips.net/video/DbLrH67OHmw/видео.html
Subaru seem to like those screens and banjo bolts for oil delivery to the VVT and turbo. I guess screens would do their job up to the point that they clog off. It makes me wonder if good maintenance and frequent oil filter changes would make screens unnecessary. It's a little annoying when Subaru require more frequent full synthetic oil changes compared to other vehicles (3750 miles in their turbo models). They must know something about their failure pattern with extended oil change intervals.
That tells me that the regular oil filter probably failed and needs to be changed at the same time. Because it's probably old and now has holes in it, which is allowing this gunk to bypass the main filter and now it clogs that little screen in a hurry; and it will clog it fast again if the oil and filter aren't changed right away.
Nicely done Ivan
Well done Ivan
Is there a similar screen on bank 2?
I replaced my Oil Pressure Switch and VVT,
now I have to the same code
Nice one Ivan! Going Eric O style is good. Need that brake clean fix lol!!!
I figured that might as well post a brake cleen vid since Eric O hasn't used it in a while haha
Great video! I need to do mine this weekend.
Nice video. Amigo. Good diagnostic.
"Limpiador de frenos y partes, sin cloro" For a moment I thought you had gone way down south. LOL Funny to see that. Great vid by the way
On a lot of new cars they now recommend just removing the screens after its first service after initial run in stage. Its just really to just catch swarf.
Thanks man, 2008 Forester, probably same problem.
I cleaned the screens on both of my OCVs on my Toyota and they weren't even that dirty and my engine had 170k miles at the time. That's crazy how full that screen was.
Bet you used synthetic oil and changed it regularly.
I’m confused. Did you remove the whole part. Or did you just remove the valve timing that was attached by one bolt? It looks like the whole part. But I don’t know how to properly remove it…
What's involved in the driver side one?
Did you have to take off the timing belt to get to take off the valve?
I totally agree you make the videos real good,But I wished you to do it step-by-step how do you take out this Selenoid bank 2
I didn't want to waste the viewers' time on simple nuts and bolts stuff :)
Was it a pain to get that passenger side module?
No gasket or o-rings on the valve mount I take it. Cleaned both sides of the valve assy I'd guess.
I'm only partway through the video but maybe something like b12 chemtool spray would have been able to clean that better than brakeclean?
I’m throwing this code on my 07,p0026 oil started leaking from the switch. Misfires when you give it too much gas or drive up a hill. changed the solenoid, new pressure switch (leak is gone but still misfiring) and opened up the housing to find a clean screen. Not sure where to go next, engine flush?
I have this problem, but I can't figure out how to find new gasket.. how did you replace gasket? Please help
Nice easy fix but come on Ivan no bonus footage? I made an entire bag of popcorn hoping for a long video
Question mine is leaking oil I changed the the seal on it and still oil leak .... need help ?
is there a gasket with that part you removed?
My Subaru Forester is giving the pOO26. How much is the repair cost ?
wy do you think ivan erick o uses bracke cleaner a good sovent for oil residual removal
What is your connection to Staten Island? That is not all that close to State College. Long way to go for business.
How the heck did you get the VVT housing off??
I can’t access any of the 4 bolts (2006 Impreza).
Edit: nevermind
Ivan,
How long are you staying in Staten Island? Heck of a commute!
Thanks for another great video. Have a couple of avsl Subaru engines I'm rebuilding.
Do you think it's possible to clean that screen somehow on the driver side without removing that whole piece? The reason being, apparently you've got take off the timing belt and camshaft sprocket just to get to it! Subie Impreza is throwing P0028. I've replaced the oil pressure sensor (easy and cheap). The solenoid I've tested that as much as possible: I can hear it operate by running 12V to it and the coil ohm reading seems good. I can't even get the solenoid out because a small bracket blocks access. Subaru says to just replace that it's the timing belt whole thing again! Terrible design on that side. I'm wondering if I can hose that screen out somehow by removing the oil pressure sensor and maybe the solenoid (by grinding the blocked bracket area away) and squirting in there? Got any thoughts?
Do it the right way :)
I found that is not variable timing at all it's one of the intake valves either on or off and gas pools in one of the valves while it's doing this very dumbe design.
and you have to watch those 150,000 oil changes!
Excellent work.
Good fix ivan,where have you been.
my 2006 subaru forester has this code i think, we checked it but i forget what it was but im pretty sure it was this code. but my car is chugging through gas, would this be a side effect from the code?
Nice fix, especially when no part required...
BTW, I think crazy Joe had a bother in the retail electronics business years ago who went by the name Crazy Eddie...;)
Staten Island trainee coming soon.
Moving Up Diy 🙌
How did you get the screen out of the housing? I've tried picks, and needle nose but can't get it out.
It was tough...might have to damage it just a little
Thanks. So if I bang it up a little, no big deal? Also, do I need a torque wrench to put the solenoid manifold(?) back on to the block?
Just use common sense. No torque wrench required. They are small bolts and aluminum threads...
Curious if you know where I can purchase that small filter, or have a part number for it? Mine was completely blown out!
Don't want to run it with new solenoid and not that small filter
Any help would be much appreciated!
Cheers keep up the good work
Not sure...ask Subaru
Love this scanner...keep it up!!!
Nice one Ivan!
Any update as to if cleaning the screen did the trick?
I proved in the video that it did!
why a screen there when oil filter should be the screen?
oil filters have a bypass valve when pressure gets too high, it can open and pass unfiltered oil when they don't change oil and the filter is very dirty or it's cold, with heavy/thickened oil and ding-dong driver revs it to death :)
cars with out over-pressure bypass oil filters, mostly have the bypass valve built into the oil pan or the block.
Black gunge is made of fine particles suspended in the oil that can pass through any fillter but they tend to stick together and form clumps. Synthetic oil dosen't break down into black gunge and varnishes to anything like the same extent, it also has intrinsic solvent properties that clean the oilways.
Showed the fix, thumbs up.
Hola.
Quiero hacer unas consultas respecto a un problema en mi Subaru 2006 2.0r automático. Falla la marcha lenta, al llegar a un semáforo y pisar el freno comienza a variar las RPM de 900 a 1000 y se deja de hacerlo una vez que dejo el cambio en "D", "N" o suelto y vuelvo a pisar el freno rápidamente. También he probado reiniciando la ECU quitando la batería por 20 min, queda espectacular muy estable el motor funcionando pero al cabo de 80 o 100 kilómetros vuelve el problema. Alguna idea?
Gracias.
I don't think this is a maintenance issue. If it was, it wouldn't have 150k miles on it. Those screens are made to get clogged. To have 150k miles on it, I would say they did a good job staying unclogged that long.
Thank you Ivan!!!
Modern multi-grade oils increase viscosity when hot.
I don't think so...
Good professor.
Thanks for the guidance.
At least there was a visible cause to the failure. GM 4cyl solenoids fail between 40k and 60k with no visible reason. I have done so many that I stock the parts.
eldoradony are you referring to the camshaft solenoids. I replaced mine twice now. Crazy under 70000 miles
Exactly, part #12655420 and 12655421.
I have Toyota to coma 2001 code po420 can you give me some answer please
First, replace BOTH O2 sensors with OEM Denso units. If that doesn't help, replace the catalytic converter.
OK thank you buddy
coming soon to a high mileage subaru near you, P0011 and P0021 :)))
Awesome video as usual! I I think multi weight motor oil INCREASES viscosity as it heats up. 5 weight when it's cold and 20 weight when it's hot, for example.
Nah, it still thins. But...it acts like a 5 should act when at cold temperatures...and flows like a 20 would when hot (around 100C/212F.) The viscosity still varies logarithmically with temperature, but the change in viscosity is lessened.
great explanation!
Where the hell. VVT location
Well done!
I've didn't know Subaru had variable valve timing.
Actually it's variable valve lift on one of the intake valves....not camshaft phasers like on the majority of modern DOHC engines.
Kirkland battery = Walmart oil change. Walmart oil change = Not changing oil for a year or better. Not changing your oil for a year or better + modern engine = problems lady. It is a simple formula.
Kirkland is a Costco brand but that does not hamper your argument.
Cheap super market synthetic oils are Okay a 100 times better than mineral oils and to a lesser extent semi-synthetic oils. The best oils are ester based long life synthetics such as Mobile 1 but they are expensive.
Five stars for repair! I bet that part would have costed $$$?
I'm sure it wouldn't be cheap...
A white Lesabre and a green Ram truck good twofer.
interesting. at least ya didnt have to reprogram a fuse block