Ford EGR testing you didn't know
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- Опубликовано: 8 сен 2024
- This video clears up how to test the older Ford EGR solenoid Vacuum Valve. That would be around the year 2000. Newer Fords I believe have the valve mounted directly on the intake manifold.
I nearly bought a new one, as it allowed air to flow while disconnected, thanks for this, saved time and money
I know this video doesn't have a lot of views but thank you so much for posting it, you saved me hours I'm sure. I'm ever so grateful!!!
Thanks for posting this video. I have been trying to diagnose a rough idle on my 1996 Ford Mustang GT. I narrowed down the issue to the EGR vacuum solenoid.
Hey!!!! A question I wanted to know forever but never had luck with finding! Ty
Amazing video boss!! By now you should have been one of the influencers so I hope this message gives you some motivation because your video has a great distribution of ingredients (Timely, Informational, Resourceful, Helpful, Historical, etc)
Very good explanation of this valve. Thanks for taking the time to do the video.
Thank you so much for taking the time to make this very good illustrated video.
35-38 ohms resistance through the coil. 2nd, the valve is actually adjustable, it's a very fine adjustment, take the cap off and the steel tube can be rotated to adjust its contact with the disc. It is normal to have a very small vacuum to the EGR at all times, when the solenoid is activated that atmospheric pressure is stopped completely, allowing full vacuum to be applied to the EGR.
when I applied voltage to the solenoid it blocked the flow from one port to the other. I was able to pull a vacuum. Meaning NO FLOW through, no flow, then cannot pull a vacuum to the EGR . However, when the solenoid deactivated or No voltage applied it flows through. So when it is activated the vacuum cannot pull on the egr, so the egr is OFF. Try it yourself with a 9 V battery or 12 V and a might vac. Maybe mine is different ? try it for yourself. Ford should really provide more docs on all this stuff. I had 32.7 ohms and 220ma of current but at 9v test battery though. I am sure better readings with full 12 V. I replaced mine anyway and perhaps it was good ? But without power, mine could not hold a vacuum if I plugged one of the ends and the other end goes to minivac. and try to draw a vacuum, as if pulling the egr. I could not pull a vacuum even though the other end was closed, I heard a noise from the valve inside when trying to pull a vacuum. So that could not be good, that would mean a vacuum leak right ? Somehow it had just enough vac to activate the egr just a little to prevent the P0401 code. What a wacky design and headache all of this is. Gasoline engines have far too many sensors and actuators as compared to an old diesel, where the heart of everything is ONLY the Fuel Injection Distributor Pump ! Happy troubleshooting guys !
this cleared up a lot of questions i had
Thank you for the video. It was very helpful. I have a 2002 Ford Explorer 4.0 v6 with 216k and replaced the Egr valve because it did not hold vacuum. But, it did not fix the problem of rough idle and smoke coming from the down pipe union. I did a voltage and ohms test on my PTFE sensor and found that it too was faulty. The explorer still stalls after running initially. Idle has to be held until the truck is moving. Once moving the engine holds idle, but, still has smoke coming from the down pipe union. I am going to test the egr vacuum solenoid and test for power at the connection.
Another thing that can throw you through a loop is even when energized valve does not necessarily create a perfect seal. These have no rubber/silicone membrane, just a metal disk against plastic. Some leakage is normal.
They're nearly inaudible in operation, drawing ~350mA. Roughly 1/3 that of typical purge valve. I'll admit, this valve's design had me chasing an issue that didn't even exist.
This makes me think that some ford techs are unaware of such specifics concerning this control valve. Knowing could save a client some money.
Awesome information thank you 🙏
Thank you, this was a very well explained video. Liked the diagram and much appreciated.
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@Toby Collin instablaster ;)
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Thank you so much, you really help me out!
@Toby Collin glad I could help :)
Thanks for the info!!
Very Good Video 👍Thank you 👍
EGR valve for 2011 ranger 2.3 at behind valve head & firewall. That suck difficult roomy to remove.
This seems to be the same for my 89 ford probe gt. I can blow air but when I supply power I cant blow air though meaning it’s still good correct?
Thank you
04 mustang gt I only had one hose is there suppose to be 2 hoses and were do they run too?
60s EGR valve??,maybe mid 70s.
🫡 ty sir
Where does the 2 hoses at the bottom run too?
bottom hose goes to engine vacuum. Not sure about the top hose. Maybe intake ?
How do I check for a coil burned open?
Try the multimeter connectivity test...if it beeps, it's not broken. Also should have resistance...67 ohms ?
@@zilamasina8940mine had 32.7 ohms on a digital multimeter. anything 32 to 39 is prob ok. if it is above 45 or below 25 then open or shorted. if it is open you wont see anything or it will say OL or infinity, shorted will be very low 1 .1 5 .7 2. or so
Where exactly is this located? I have a 1994 Ranger 2.3
I have a 99 3.0 and it was located on the back of the coil pack very back
@@Rtb323 I found it at the top back corner on drivers side. Thanks for replying