You’re an absolute legend! After a month of diagnosing and taking it into the mechanics with no success, this finally fixed my low boost issue, cheers mate
You say low boost issue we’re you capable of making any boost I’m having an issue and it looks like my boost gauge is only hitting 2psi I’ve checked all my intercooler piping and all my hoses just can’t seem to find the issue and I have no code for low boost
What everyone else said! Other tutorials 10 minutes of "blah blah blah blah". You have just saved me $45.00 bucks Sir! (-: Clear, concise, completley understandable, and I did it on my kitchen table. 1999 Super Duty 7.3 Powerstroke. Major Thanks again!!
Thank you for this valuable information. I was able to check/clean the same style solenoid on my wife's vehicle. It felt as though it was chugging when going uphill and now it is running like a world champ! Thanks again!
Max vaccum level from pump is -1bar. Basicly, there is no need to test the valve with more than +2 bar (if you do not have external vaccum pump and you are must use compressor).
I checked my Booster Pressure solenoid measuring the ohm and it shows only 14 Ohm. On the 28.09.2023 suddenly I loose power and drive train messages keeping coming. I have no doubt my booster has fault and I have to order a new one. Thank you for your video guide me to check the faulty component.
@@AutoBuddynz Just a quick question about your multimeter ohms resistance set up.Mine only goes to minimum of ohms 200 and doesn't read the 20 to 30 as specified!How does yours read ?Cheers
@@AutoBuddynzWhat are the chances of buying a new solenoid and also letting air from port A to port B without it being energised? Working on a PSA 2.0 HDI -110 engine which has 2 EGRs solenoids and 1 turbo ...they are all letting air through without energy ..Yep ,I did swap them all over but still no power .The wastegate rod moves nicely when I apply vacuum,so it's either the solenoid or vacuum pump. Very odd.......
hi i have audi a6 2.0 tdi 2008 i checked my old one bloving air from A to B air going all the time i ordered 2 new ones and still the same problem do you think they are faulty? please help
Nice video my problem is my ford galaxy TDCi drives fine except when I go up this 1 Hill and I lose boost the car still drives but no boost I get p2263 code which clears with engine off and back on drives fine after that I've checked all the vacuum lines for breaks can't find any ,do you think the turbo boost solenoid is failing under sustained pressure .would appreciate your advice .thanks
Thank you for a greate video. What is the hose size? According to your t-connector, left go to the actuator, right go to the vacuum with restrictor pill location, down go to the Wastegate solenoid valve. Should it always be a restrictor pill on the vacuum hose? What happen if the estrictor pill is not there? I have problem with low boost. Lately i have got error 299100 Pressure conveter, turbine flap, activation open circuit. Is this related to the boost control solenoid? Another error is drive train if the i accelerate to 2000 rpm or more. I use Autophix car scanner tool made for BMW and MINI. Checking the charging datastream booster pressure solenoid show only 20 percent. In normal condition it show between 96-100 percent. Help!
My car normally runs at 1.5 overboost , 1.3 constant and 0.8 at redline. But for the last 1 week i notice boosting only to 1.1 and then going down to 0.5-0.6 which i think is the wastegate pressure. Does this mean i have bad solenoid ? I checked for vacuum leaks and any hardware cracks like turbo or manifold and all look great. So either my wg is at fault or n75 solenoid. Any ideas? When i disconnect the vacuum line from the WG my car boosts up to 2.0bar(29psi) which i think means my wastegate is OK.
From the test you completed it tells me the wastegate is sealing well. Another test you can do to ensure the wastegate actuator is functioning is to connect the wastegate vacuum line to a boost line eg. T in from a boost gauge line etc. This way you can check that the wastegate open and holds steady factory boost pressure
I think I will change mine. My mini runs very good but I've been noticing some kind of strange fluctuation in the way I receive power. No codes ever, sometimes I have full power, sometimes it's only maybe 70-80%. I have bmw diagnostic tools but I just don't really know what to do anymore.
On my f30 328i I replaced the vacuum pump and the solenoid 2 months after I got the code 120308 and I saw that my pump was leaking oil. After replacing it all and hitting the gas a little hard it’ll give me the same code. It feels like 70% power all the time compared to before any of the codes and feels like even less when I get to higher speeds. I don’t know what’s wrong, the pumps passing the compressed air and after watching you video the solenoid is working I think, I have 3 that I’ve tried.
Welp I just checked all of them and they all let air out of port B when I blow into port A with no power, but these solenoids are different they have 3 ports ones just blocked off
I have Volvo v50 diesel 2.0 Litres,i have the same Solenoid Controller...i grabed a medical Syringe and tested this vacuum ports A and B...when that car is in idle for example the port A is working as it should be the vacuum is ok the Syringe is closing fast,but the port B is not working at all...is this meaning that my Solenoid is not working as it should ?Should booth port A and B work exactly the same ?
You really need to pressure test any boost solenoid, vacuum testing a pressure device is not really ideal. If you visit any garage or buy a can of compressed air follow the steps in this video and you will know for sure if there is a problem with it.
Hello, thank you for the informative video....i have this turbo fault code here P0048 on my hilux 2.8 gd6 and the car has low boost. Tested the solenoid and im getting 24/25 ohms. Care to advise?
Is the wastegate operating correctly, depends on what is fitted Electronic Actuator or mechanical? Are you able to perform all the checks seen in this video to ensure the solenoid is operating correctly? Might also be worth checking your vacuum lines etc
@@AutoBuddynz yes the wastegate is operating smoothly....the actuater is an electronic one. I only managed to check using an ohm meter because its the one i have right now. The only thing worrying me is that the position sensor was broken during the accident and we put it together using q-bond maybe it shoterd out the whole thing
@@AutoBuddynz ive disconnected the maf while it idles and ive been told that if thats bad the idle will smooth out but that killed the engine, was going to buy a new air filter and some maf cleaner, ive cleaned the etm before and re-used the gasket. could that be the cause?
No it should not cause a no start condition. There are cases if the wiring is short then it could affect the CAN bus system but this is rare. More common things to fail on a Golf TSI, high pressure fuel pump, timing issues, diverter valve, vacuum leaks to name a few. Whats wrong with your Golf and when did it start having issues?
@@AutoBuddynz okay thanks, I have a diagnostic guy testing today hopefully narrow it down . Car was lacking power then one day going up a hill it stopped, last toothed belt was replaced at 130000 at 190000 now.
I have a 3 hose gm/pierburg version of this in my 2016 opel astra k and when i use the tester to apply more control demand to it the valve starts to make a loud rattling sound. Is that normal or should it just actuate the solenoid valve against the spring in silence when the ecu sends more voltage to the 12v solenoid? The car is a gm 1.4 turbo and it suffers from low boost / no boost at all. The only code i get is a p0299 low boost minimum limit exceeded.
The valve should not be making a rattling noise, sounds like the valve is at fault. Its normal to hear some noise from the valve but nothing excessive should be heard.
A 3 port solenoid will bleed out a little bit of air from the port open to atmosphere, however the two ports between the wastegate and boost / vacuum line should not be open when its inactive.
@@AutoBuddynz I deffo have 2 one either side of the t piece one side had blue tape on it. I bought it from main dealer. I replaced all solinoids and pipes coming off the solinoids on my car and still getting p0244 even adjusted the actuator. I just don’t know where to look now 😫
@@lawrencemann3578 Its an overboost condition, check and ensure your wastegate is not opening properly, if the diagram is damaged it might not be opening fully. Otherwise try this, remove both restrictor pills by changing out the vacuum hoses, next clear the codes & take the car for a drive, it should only only 8 - 10 psi boost. If it still plays up with the fault code I would be checking that wastegate
You’re an absolute legend! After a month of diagnosing and taking it into the mechanics with no success, this finally fixed my low boost issue, cheers mate
Great! Appreciate the feedback, thanks!
You say low boost issue we’re you capable of making any boost I’m having an issue and it looks like my boost gauge is only hitting 2psi I’ve checked all my intercooler piping and all my hoses just can’t seem to find the issue and I have no code for low boost
@@killacam7254 did you check boost pill?
What everyone else said! Other tutorials 10 minutes of "blah blah blah blah". You have just saved me $45.00 bucks Sir! (-: Clear, concise, completley understandable, and I did it on my kitchen table. 1999 Super Duty 7.3 Powerstroke. Major Thanks again!!
Appreciate the feedback!
Thank you for this valuable information. I was able to check/clean the same style solenoid on my wife's vehicle. It felt as though it was chugging when going uphill and now it is running like a world champ! Thanks again!
Appreciate the feedback! Thanks for the comment! Always good to get back lost power!
Thank you making this video - at long last I think I can check what is
wrong with my car!!
Thanks for the comment!
Accurate, clear and concise explanation. Thank you!
Appreciate the comment! Thank you
Yes, this is a good explanation on how to test the booster solenoid.
Thank you
Thanks!
Nice and good explanation very shortly. Thank you for that.
Thanks!
Valuable video! I was able to diagnose by boost issues. Thanks
Appreciate the comment! Thanks
Thanks for this so that i can decide whether to buy new one or not.
Thanks! Excellent video, quick and straight to the point.
Appreciate the comment.
Thank you so much. Mine tested fine on resistance and vacuum test. It failed this air test. Replaced and boost is back.
Awesome! Thanks for the feedback.
Was this giving a p2261 code?
where can i get a full set becauze i lost boost on my mustang ecoboost
Max vaccum level from pump is -1bar. Basicly, there is no need to test the valve with more than +2 bar (if you do not have external vaccum pump and you are must use compressor).
Correct
Great info... very clear ...good job..thanks
Thanks!
Great well explained . thanks
Thanks for the comment.
Excellent video
Thanks
I checked my Booster Pressure solenoid measuring the ohm and it shows only 14 Ohm. On the 28.09.2023 suddenly I loose power and drive train messages keeping coming. I have no doubt my booster has fault and I have to order a new one. Thank you for your video guide me to check the faulty component.
Thanks for the feedback!
Thx, Great Work!
Thanks!
Anyone notice at 3.35 in, this man has 3 hands.
Crazy right haha
Thanks for the information
Thanks!
Very well explained, helped me alot appreciate your work 👍
Thank you!
How does your compressor have such precise controls
@@W333dm4n Its an extra air pressure gauge, you can get this from any parts store
Nicely explained and very useful .Thank you for sharing and keep up the good work.
Appreciate it. Thanks!
@@AutoBuddynz Just a quick question about your multimeter ohms resistance set up.Mine only goes to minimum of ohms 200 and doesn't read the 20 to 30 as specified!How does yours read ?Cheers
@@powerspeedutube 200 ohms means that it will read all values upto 200ohms.
@@AutoBuddynz Thank you very much.
@@AutoBuddynzWhat are the chances of buying a new solenoid and also letting air from port A to port B without it being energised?
Working on a PSA 2.0 HDI -110 engine which has 2 EGRs solenoids and 1 turbo ...they are all letting air through without energy ..Yep ,I did swap them all over but still no power .The wastegate rod moves nicely when I apply vacuum,so it's either the solenoid or vacuum pump.
Very odd.......
hi i have audi a6 2.0 tdi 2008 i checked my old one bloving air from A to B air going all the time i ordered 2 new ones and still the same problem do you think they are faulty?
please help
@@BobbyNikolov Have you scanned the vehicle to see the fault codes?
Nice video my problem is my ford galaxy TDCi drives fine except when I go up this 1 Hill and I lose boost the car still drives but no boost I get p2263 code which clears with engine off and back on drives fine after that I've checked all the vacuum lines for breaks can't find any ,do you think the turbo boost solenoid is failing under sustained pressure .would appreciate your advice .thanks
Great valuable video!
Thank you!
Thank you for a greate video. What is the hose size? According to your t-connector, left go to the actuator, right go to the vacuum with restrictor pill location, down go to the Wastegate solenoid valve. Should it always be a restrictor pill on the vacuum hose? What happen if the estrictor pill is not there? I have problem with low boost. Lately i have got error 299100 Pressure conveter, turbine flap, activation open circuit. Is this related to the boost control solenoid? Another error is drive train if the i accelerate to 2000 rpm or more. I use Autophix car scanner tool made for BMW and MINI. Checking the charging datastream booster pressure solenoid show only 20 percent. In normal condition it show between 96-100 percent. Help!
I want to know that when giving power supply to the solenoid ,and the solenoid is giving the sound ,will it work even though when the sound is coming
If Apply air of port b , should escape in port a ? Or not ?
Only when you activate the solenoid with 12v air should flow from port A to port B
Which side should go to the turbo
@@LinsonCampbell Port A watch the video from 2.20mins on
My car normally runs at 1.5 overboost , 1.3 constant and 0.8 at redline. But for the last 1 week i notice boosting only to 1.1 and then going down to 0.5-0.6 which i think is the wastegate pressure.
Does this mean i have bad solenoid ? I checked for vacuum leaks and any hardware cracks like turbo or manifold and all look great. So either my wg is at fault or n75 solenoid. Any ideas?
When i disconnect the vacuum line from the WG my car boosts up to 2.0bar(29psi) which i think means my wastegate is OK.
From the test you completed it tells me the wastegate is sealing well. Another test you can do to ensure the wastegate actuator is functioning is to connect the wastegate vacuum line to a boost line eg. T in from a boost gauge line etc. This way you can check that the wastegate open and holds steady factory boost pressure
I think I will change mine. My mini runs very good but I've been noticing some kind of strange fluctuation in the way I receive power. No codes ever, sometimes I have full power, sometimes it's only maybe 70-80%. I have bmw diagnostic tools but I just don't really know what to do anymore.
What car is it?
@@AutoBuddynz Mini Cooper S 2012 with n18 engine.
@@Globbs don't think that would be related to the boost control solenoid. Would start with the basics first, furl and spark testing.
Great video.
Thanks!
Thanks!
On my f30 328i I replaced the vacuum pump and the solenoid 2 months after I got the code 120308 and I saw that my pump was leaking oil. After replacing it all and hitting the gas a little hard it’ll give me the same code. It feels like 70% power all the time compared to before any of the codes and feels like even less when I get to higher speeds. I don’t know what’s wrong, the pumps passing the compressed air and after watching you video the solenoid is working I think, I have 3 that I’ve tried.
Welp I just checked all of them and they all let air out of port B when I blow into port A with no power, but these solenoids are different they have 3 ports ones just blocked off
I have Volvo v50 diesel 2.0 Litres,i have the same Solenoid Controller...i grabed a medical Syringe and tested this vacuum ports A and B...when that car is in idle for example the port A is working as it should be the vacuum is ok the Syringe is closing fast,but the port B is not working at all...is this meaning that my Solenoid is not working as it should ?Should booth port A and B work exactly the same ?
You really need to pressure test any boost solenoid, vacuum testing a pressure device is not really ideal. If you visit any garage or buy a can of compressed air follow the steps in this video and you will know for sure if there is a problem with it.
@@AutoBuddynz Thank you !
Hello, thank you for the informative video....i have this turbo fault code here P0048 on my hilux 2.8 gd6 and the car has low boost. Tested the solenoid and im getting 24/25 ohms. Care to advise?
Is the wastegate operating correctly, depends on what is fitted Electronic Actuator or mechanical? Are you able to perform all the checks seen in this video to ensure the solenoid is operating correctly? Might also be worth checking your vacuum lines etc
@@AutoBuddynz yes the wastegate is operating smoothly....the actuater is an electronic one. I only managed to check using an ohm meter because its the one i have right now. The only thing worrying me is that the position sensor was broken during the accident and we put it together using q-bond maybe it shoterd out the whole thing
Would a faulty valve of this type be the cause for shaky acceleration? My car essentially vibrates when I accelerate any faster than a grandma
Depends on the conditions while driving, highway etc but in most cases no, sounds like an airflow meter problem. Scan the car for any codes
@@AutoBuddynz ive disconnected the maf while it idles and ive been told that if thats bad the idle will smooth out but that killed the engine, was going to buy a new air filter and some maf cleaner, ive cleaned the etm before and re-used the gasket. could that be the cause?
is this a vacuum solenoid valve?
Yes its also referred to as a vacuum solenoid valve but remember this valve seen in this video also operates on positive pressure not only vacuum.
If these fail could it cause the engine to not start? Vw golf tsi 2008
No it should not cause a no start condition. There are cases if the wiring is short then it could affect the CAN bus system but this is rare. More common things to fail on a Golf TSI, high pressure fuel pump, timing issues, diverter valve, vacuum leaks to name a few. Whats wrong with your Golf and when did it start having issues?
@@AutoBuddynz okay thanks, I have a diagnostic guy testing today hopefully narrow it down . Car was lacking power then one day going up a hill it stopped, last toothed belt was replaced at 130000 at 190000 now.
Why would you even check this solenoid? Symptoms please.
Vehicle not coming on boost, low boost pressure. Stored fault codes. Basically if the vehicle is gets slow or sluggish
@@AutoBuddynz thank you!!!
canht you just turn the car on and discount the B to see of?
Not sure what you mean, are you refering to running port B to atmosphere to run open boost?
Hi, is this the same as the waste gate solenoid? Thanks
Hi, yes it is, if your referring to the part which controls the mechanical waste-gate actuator connected on the exhaust housing of the turbo.
I have a 3 hose gm/pierburg version of this in my 2016 opel astra k and when i use the tester to apply more control demand to it the valve starts to make a loud rattling sound. Is that normal or should it just actuate the solenoid valve against the spring in silence when the ecu sends more voltage to the 12v solenoid? The car is a gm 1.4 turbo and it suffers from low boost / no boost at all. The only code i get is a p0299 low boost minimum limit exceeded.
The valve should not be making a rattling noise, sounds like the valve is at fault. Its normal to hear some noise from the valve but nothing excessive should be heard.
I checked my solenoid and it read 24 Ω. Is it a problem
Is it the same type of solenoid? If not check your specs on your solenoid.
If this malfunction will this cause under boost?
Yes it will, as you will only have wastegate pressure.
I took mine out but i can blow from both ports and both side the air comes out not even plugged in os it suppose to do that
Its not supposed to do that, should only allow air from both ports when energized
Is this true for all boost solenoids? Mine is about 50% open inactive and 100% open active?
3 port boost solenoid with diaphragm
A 3 port solenoid will bleed out a little bit of air from the port open to atmosphere, however the two ports between the wastegate and boost / vacuum line should not be open when its inactive.
@@AutoBuddynz thanks mate appreciate it
Does anyone know why my vacuum line for my 2008 Subaru wrx has two restrictor pills? One in each side
If its a factory fitted line, that's fine, no issue with having two restricters in place.
What does the restrictor pills look like is it like a bearing ball
@@luankoenel7672 yes kind of looks like a ball bearing
Looks like there is 2 pills ? I had blue tap on mine but feels like I have a pill in either side
Hey that should not be the case, should only have one, is the vehicle reaching desired boost levels?
@@AutoBuddynz I deffo have 2 one either side of the t piece one side had blue tape on it. I bought it from main dealer. I replaced all solinoids and pipes coming off the solinoids on my car and still getting p0244 even adjusted the actuator. I just don’t know where to look now 😫
@@lawrencemann3578 Its an overboost condition, check and ensure your wastegate is not opening properly, if the diagram is damaged it might not be opening fully. Otherwise try this, remove both restrictor pills by changing out the vacuum hoses, next clear the codes & take the car for a drive, it should only only 8 - 10 psi boost. If it still plays up with the fault code I would be checking that wastegate
@@AutoBuddynz I have no way of telling what psi I am running but I shall bare that in mind thanks
Mines 27.9 ohms is it worth changing it
Thats sound fine, should not have to replace it
How many hands do you have? 😂
A pair too many haha
2 I would assume 😂😂😂; he’s good ah !
Thank's!