So great, you are one of the few that actually show how this thing works. Others have videos that are not even using the right valve, they will be showing us either the tab/tad valve. The tab/tad valves function completely different and are not for the egr at all. Thanks for sharing this great video!
I'm glad it helped you out it was driving me crazy because everything you read says there should be an audible click and most solenoids do click but now we know this one does not LOL. good luck with your repair
Thanks for sharing. Great explanation that even I understood. I have been fighting with a code 34 on a fresh rebuilt ford 5.8 efi and the egr valve solenoid was my issue. This video helped me determine whether it was my pcm or the solenoid.
Thanks a bunch for sharing Robbie. My EGR system has been throwing me for a loop and I'm glad I stumbled on this video. Helped explain how it all works. Tested the resistance and the vacuum flowing to my EGR and got nothing on both so gotta buy a new solenoid now. Hopefully that fixes it.
Very helpful, showing us the diode explains shorting if powered with reverse polarity. Showed no clicking if powered right which had me buying several, showed us it is open when off etc. These are buggers! One point you did not mention, the vehicle will not send signal to solenoid until it is up to running temperature!
Well done, as you said not much on here regarding the internals of the valve. I couldn't hear a click either so not sure it was working. Feel more confident it is now. Thanks, all the way from UK.
I bought off of Ebay an original Ford diagnostic manual for the EEC-IV ..This thing is 6 inches thick..I have a 94 E350 van with the 460 engine..In the manual it has bench testing for each and every part of the EEC-IV system. It says the the ohm specs should be between 51-108 ohms..If it is not, replace it.. That is one thing on any car you work on..DATA!! Info...without it you are lost..On Ebay I bought a full factory fan foldout wire diagram..Every wire, every circuit..DATA!! At the bottom of the test sheet, it states that vacuum leakage being small is normal and is not "detrimental to valve function"
I totally agree having the correct information is vital to repairing anything. when you get time you should make some videos and post segments of the information you found. I'm sure it would help a lot of people out.
@@robbieraychannel Yea, I was thinking about that video idea..Are you just using your phone camera?? What about editing software..I have a decent phone, but you need to cut down the video..not sure how to do that..
Super good brake down of it and how it works I believe I have this some what of a problem starting with oxygen sensor and Cadillac converter to the EGR valve going to doing the same brake of it. Guy on RUclips show cadalic converter built up and sensor bad causing stalling when taking off to gain speed.
awesome video, i appreciate the thoughts. So i’m having a high idle/ poor idle experience which is leading me to a vacuum leak. After testing the solenoid and egr valve sensor, i discovered that the green egr vacuum line has constant vacuum, i assume that’s no good ??? Any thoughts would help
Very helpful video. Thank you so much. I'm dealing with this Hell right now. I have a 1993 ford Explorer Sport V6 with 365,000 miles. I keep getting a CEL with 332 and 335 codes. Rough idle, surging. Replaced with new dpfe, throttle control sensor, idle air control valve, fuel filter, air filter, cleaned throttle body and egr valve. Tested egr valve by sucking on hose, starts to idle really bad almost stalls. Just bought my 3rd erg solenoid. My first one was bad in the box, kept getting a 558 code. Now the codes say my other new egr solenoids won't open during test?? (They all can't be bad....can they?) Maybe a vacuum leak I missed somewhere or a restriction in the one of my lines. Waiting for my new handheld vacuum pump to come in the mail to hopefully get to the bottom of this. Sick and tired.
Seem's like you've covered your bases pretty good. It may be time to start looking for electrical or wiring harness problems. One of the two wires to the egr solenoid is a constant battery positive. The other is a negative that is sent by the ecm ( engine control module) under certain conditions (such as wide open throttle). You can search for a ecm pinout diagram online. Once you know the correct pin and wire at the ecm you can trace it and check for any problems.Also you could make some long jumper wires (+ & - ) and run them from the solenoid plug to a multi meter in the vehicle. with the vehicle at operating temperature have a assistant drive on the highway and periodically give it full throttle while you watch the meter from the passenger seat. You should see a reading because the egr should be commanded on at this point. It may not read 12 volts because I think the negative is a pulsing signal from the ecm. ( you can research this further) But at least you can see if the ecm is trying to activate the egr solenoid. Good luck with it!!! Hang in there you"ll find it.
@@robbieraychannel Quick update. All this time when I was getting the 335 and 332 codes I was checking the erg solenoid and the erg valve and it was the DPFE sensor all along. Now I just replaced the DPFE sensor with a new one from Pep Boys about a month ago so I thought it couldn't possibly be bad but it was. I think it might have been bad in the box. Anyway, I saw how to check it by back probing the sending wire going to the computer and I was only getting .20 - .30 volts. Waaaayyyy below specs but was getting 5v to the dpfe from the computer. And when I activated the egr sensor (with the truck on idle and taking of the cap and touching the little pendel) the car sputtered and almost stalled. There was almost no rise in the dpfe voltage. After that I could rule out the egr solenoid and the egr valve. All the vacuum hoses are new there wasn't much left but the DPFE. That's why it was throwing codes. I'm like Willie Nelson -- On the road again. Once again, thanks for your help.
That might work but honestly I never tried it that way for this style valve. I do it that way all the time with common evap purge valves, Or canister close valves. This valve doesn't seem to have a real definitive on/off flow to it. You might want to also pull that cap off of the top of it, energize it and see if that little metal Tower sticking up becomes magnetized.
I was thinking the same thing Farm Dog, I messed around with it for a good long while before realizing that. Everything that I researched said that you would hear a click when the valve was activated. Not true in this case though.
@@robbieraychannel I searched and arrived at your video because I was testing my valve and wanted to make sure it should work that way. I would expect the valve to be closed on the manifold side and open to atmosphere on the EGR valve side while de-energized.
My truck is out on four cylinders 2,4,6,8 runs like shit headder pipe is cool when the one To the left or right is hot every second cylinder not firing and fuel in my base pan raising the oil level wtf is going on coil or distributor maybe??
wow, I would probably check the distributor cap and rotor first because they are easy to access. Then the plug wires for wear spots that can cause them to ground out. ( sometimes this is easy to see in the dark with the motor running and looking for arching). Then check the plugs for poor condition or fouling.
So great, you are one of the few that actually show how this thing works. Others have videos that are not even using the right valve, they will be showing us either the tab/tad valve. The tab/tad valves function completely different and are not for the egr at all. Thanks for sharing this great video!
I'm glad it helped you out it was driving me crazy because everything you read says there should be an audible click and most solenoids do click but now we know this one does not LOL. good luck with your repair
Thanks for sharing. Great explanation that even I understood. I have been fighting with a code 34 on a fresh rebuilt ford 5.8 efi and the egr valve solenoid was my issue. This video helped me determine whether it was my pcm or the solenoid.
Awesome, I'm glad it helped you out.
Thanks a bunch for sharing Robbie. My EGR system has been throwing me for a loop and I'm glad I stumbled on this video. Helped explain how it all works. Tested the resistance and the vacuum flowing to my EGR and got nothing on both so gotta buy a new solenoid now. Hopefully that fixes it.
You're welcome I'm glad it helped you out
Very helpful, showing us the diode explains shorting if powered with reverse polarity. Showed no clicking if powered right which had me buying several, showed us it is open when off etc. These are buggers! One point you did not mention, the vehicle will not send signal to solenoid until it is up to running temperature!
Good point about the operating temperature delay. Thanks for posting
Well done, as you said not much on here regarding the internals of the valve. I couldn't hear a click either so not sure it was working. Feel more confident it is now. Thanks, all the way from UK.
Awesome I'm glad the video helped you out
Thanks from France. Same problem on Ford Transit 2.0 DOHC
Glad it helped you out.😀
Put your meter on the diode setting and you should be able to test any typical diode, zener diodes are different
Great video! Helped me out
Great video
Thanks
I bought off of Ebay an original Ford diagnostic manual for the EEC-IV ..This thing is 6 inches thick..I have a 94 E350 van with the 460 engine..In the manual it has bench testing for each and every part of the EEC-IV system. It says the the ohm specs should be between 51-108 ohms..If it is not, replace it..
That is one thing on any car you work on..DATA!! Info...without it you are lost..On Ebay I bought a full factory fan foldout wire diagram..Every wire, every circuit..DATA!!
At the bottom of the test sheet, it states that vacuum leakage being small is normal and is not "detrimental to valve function"
I totally agree having the correct information is vital to repairing anything. when you get time you should make some videos and post segments of the information you found. I'm sure it would help a lot of people out.
@@robbieraychannel Yea, I was thinking about that video idea..Are you just using your phone camera?? What about editing software..I have a decent phone, but you need to cut down the video..not sure how to do that..
Thanks! I was thinking it was not working also. I was applying 12vdc to the pins and expecting it to click also.
I'm glad it helped you out Shawn it got me the same way at first
Super good brake down of it and how it works I believe I have this some what of a problem starting with oxygen sensor and Cadillac converter to the EGR valve going to doing the same brake of it. Guy on RUclips show cadalic converter built up and sensor bad causing stalling when taking off to gain speed.
Thank's Angela, Best of luck with your repair. Rob...
Video was excellent,
Thanks Don
T in a vacuum gauge and see if getting too much or too little vacuum.
Thanks , great vids
Glad it helped you out Sulli
Great Video! If your buying a new one might as well tear the old one apart.. 🤸
Very true!
awesome video, i appreciate the thoughts. So i’m having a high idle/ poor idle experience which is leading me to a vacuum leak. After testing the solenoid and egr valve sensor, i discovered that the green egr vacuum line has constant vacuum, i assume that’s no good ??? Any thoughts would help
Very helpful video. Thank you so much. I'm dealing with this Hell right now. I have a 1993 ford Explorer Sport V6 with 365,000 miles. I keep getting a CEL with 332 and 335 codes. Rough idle, surging. Replaced with new dpfe, throttle control sensor, idle air control valve, fuel filter, air filter, cleaned throttle body and egr valve. Tested egr valve by sucking on hose, starts to idle really bad almost stalls. Just bought my 3rd erg solenoid. My first one was bad in the box, kept getting a 558 code. Now the codes say my other new egr solenoids won't open during test?? (They all can't be bad....can they?) Maybe a vacuum leak I missed somewhere or a restriction in the one of my lines. Waiting for my new handheld vacuum pump to come in the mail to hopefully get to the bottom of this. Sick and tired.
Seem's like you've covered your bases pretty good. It may be time to start looking for electrical or wiring harness problems. One of the two wires to the egr solenoid is a constant battery positive. The other is a negative that is sent by the ecm ( engine control module) under certain conditions (such as wide open throttle). You can search for a ecm pinout diagram online. Once you know the correct pin and wire at the ecm you can trace it and check for any problems.Also you could make some long jumper wires (+ & - ) and run them from the solenoid plug to a multi meter in the vehicle. with the vehicle at operating temperature have a assistant drive on the highway and periodically give it full throttle while you watch the meter from the passenger seat. You should see a reading because the egr should be commanded on at this point. It may not read 12 volts because I think the negative is a pulsing signal from the ecm. ( you can research this further) But at least you can see if the ecm is trying to activate the egr solenoid. Good luck with it!!! Hang in there you"ll find it.
@@robbieraychannel Quick update. All this time when I was getting the 335 and 332 codes I was checking the erg solenoid and the erg valve and it was the DPFE sensor all along. Now I just replaced the DPFE sensor with a new one from Pep Boys about a month ago so I thought it couldn't possibly be bad but it was. I think it might have been bad in the box. Anyway, I saw how to check it by back probing the sending wire going to the computer and I was only getting .20 - .30 volts. Waaaayyyy below specs but was getting 5v to the dpfe from the computer. And when I activated the egr sensor (with the truck on idle and taking of the cap and touching the little pendel) the car sputtered and almost stalled. There was almost no rise in the dpfe voltage. After that I could rule out the egr solenoid and the egr valve. All the vacuum hoses are new there wasn't much left but the DPFE. That's why it was throwing codes. I'm like Willie Nelson -- On the road again. Once again, thanks for your help.
Thank you very much
Your welcome Tony
Good job!!! Can I just blow air through tho with my mouth? And then run test leads to the battery with it disconnected and see if it opens?
That might work but honestly I never tried it that way for this style valve. I do it that way all the time with common evap purge valves, Or canister close valves. This valve doesn't seem to have a real definitive on/off flow to it. You might want to also pull that cap off of the top of it, energize it and see if that little metal Tower sticking up becomes magnetized.
So weird that there is essentially a constant vacuum leak through that solenoid valve foam other than when it is activating the EGR valve.
I was thinking the same thing Farm Dog, I messed around with it for a good long while before realizing that. Everything that I researched said that you would hear a click when the valve was activated. Not true in this case though.
@@robbieraychannel I searched and arrived at your video because I was testing my valve and wanted to make sure it should work that way. I would expect the valve to be closed on the manifold side and open to atmosphere on the EGR valve side while de-energized.
I went to hell and back replacing parts on my 4.9 bronco. Then I found this part and it didn't respond to batter at all
My truck is out on four cylinders 2,4,6,8 runs like shit headder pipe is cool when the one
To the left or right is hot every second cylinder not firing and fuel in my base pan raising the oil level wtf is going on coil or distributor maybe??
wow, I would probably check the distributor cap and rotor first because they are easy to access. Then the plug wires for wear spots that can cause them to ground out. ( sometimes this is easy to see in the dark with the motor running and looking for arching). Then check the plugs for poor condition or fouling.
Are you from Philly? 😂 I can tell by how u talk
Lol south Jersey, but it's basically a Philly suburb. Eagle's fan too