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No problem. If the epoxy doesn't work try the rear a/c block off plates that I listed on the video summery. good luck with your repair Rob....

@@davidthomson1613 no problem I'm glad it helped you out...

Good point about the operating temperature delay. Thanks for posting

Huh! Interesting info. I'll take a closer look next time I do one. Funny because I have done several of these throughout my career and never had a timing problem before. Could it be possible that I got lucky every time. I guess anything is possible.....I like the burner idea, less chance of overheating......

Good to know, Thank's for commenting

CJ usually when the PIP sensor fails it fails suddenly and completely, but of course it is possible to be your problem. I would definitely rule out all of the simple things first such as plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor and even vacuum leaks there is also an ignition module that is easier to change out than the PIP sensor. Sounds crazy but these engines are so known for ignition problems that I keep a spare distributor with a new pip sensor in it and a spare ignition module on hand at all times LOL. You can get an aftermarket duralast distributor for about 100 bucks. Just be sure that the distributor gear is exactly the same as your distributor was or you could damage the gear on your camshaft. Good luck with it. Rob.....

@@robbieraychannel ok. Can a pip sensor still be bad and truck still starts and run?

@@hendricks177 yes they can the usual symptom for them is once the heat up they fail and the truck won't run but then it will restart when it cools down. One thing I forgot to mention. You could have a stuck open EGR valve. That will make the engine run like absolute crap at idle.

@@robbieraychannel I got a 91 Ford f350 7.5 and it's running rough misfire bad. Likes it struggling for air or fuel or something. Everything i put on it is new. MAP sensor. Purge valve. EGR sensor. TPS. Spark plugs. Spark plug wires. Distributor cap and rotor. Idle air control valve. Fuel injectors. Air filter. Ignition coil. ICM. Fuel pressure regulator. And still running crappy. Not run smoothly.

@@hendricks177 wow I see your problem. looks like you had to throw the house at this thing. Keep in mind that the EGR valve is not the same as the EGR sensor. The valve on older trucks looks a little bit like a flying saucer. Some of the old ones have a gap underneath that you can stick your fingers up under there and push up on the diaphragm. in a working system this should make it run like crap when you do that. But of course it could already be stuck. Another thing I forgot to mention. Not sure if yours has a catalytic converter. But I have seen before on vehicles where someone tried everything else. And it ended up that the cat. came apart inside and clogged the exhaust system. One of the symptoms for this is you will actually hear a hissing sound if you pay close attention. And It will also run badly and have no power. One easy way to check this is to take the O2 sensor out of the hole which will relieve some of the pressure. The one before the cat if it has it. If it runs better like that it is likely plugged.

I like that idea. So the metal terminals will drag upon each other when plugged in. Could be used on many different plugs. Thanks for posting. Rob.....

Thanks for the info. I hope it all works out good for ya !!!

Robbie...an update. Spoke to the original owner of my Equinox who told me she sent the car to the scrap yard because of the ridiculously high repair estimate given by the Chevy dealer. Off to the dealer I went. I asked him what they had determined was wrong with the car. He told me they had changed a bunch of sensors because of stored codes. Then he tells me he had given an estimate for work she had declined. This was for two catalytic converters, which in California can only be replaced with CARB certified units...for $4,000. I asked him what made him think the cats were bad...to which he said again codes for catalytic converter inefficiency. I told him the timing chain had come off the Bank 1 sprocket and the valves were all shut (with DI, this dumps all the fuel into the combustion chamber with nowhere to go) and the middle cylinder on Bank 2 had leaking valves due to carbon build up. Basically, the catalytic converters and O² sensors were being flooded with raw gas, causing the DTCs. So this incompetent dealer was going to charge $4,500 to replace two catalytic converters and four O² sensors and fix NOTHING!!! They had been...and continued to want to throw...the previous owner's hard earned money at symptoms rather the the cause of the DTCs. Incompetent idiots.

Thanks

Your welcome John.......

I'm hoping the video helps you out when you do your's. Keep in mind there are some bronze bushings inside of the distributor housing, so put some grease on them and the shaft when you reassemble. Good luck with your rebuild. Rob....

@@robbieraychannel Will do, thanks.

That might work but honestly I never tried it that way for this style valve. I do it that way all the time with common evap purge valves, Or canister close valves. This valve doesn't seem to have a real definitive on/off flow to it. You might want to also pull that cap off of the top of it, energize it and see if that little metal Tower sticking up becomes magnetized.

Your welcome, Glad it helped you out😀

Yes you can but there is some concern with the drive gear matching the gear on your camshaft perfectly. There is even three different gears that were used on those engines. That's why sometimes it's a safer bet to use your existing distributor

​@@robbieraychannel.... Well, my 1993 Ford f150 5.0 truck has a severe "Squeak " coming from the Distro...A commenter on another RUclips video said it could be the bearing...I used a Harbor freight Stethoscope and sho' nuff its squeaking like a flock of baby birds...My question is...How do you change the bearing out...???... What tools and what part # for the bearing...???... Thanks in advance, sir...😊😊😊

LOL I know don't worry we'll get it fixed 😃

​@@robbieraychannellol😂😂

You're welcome I'm glad it helped you out

Yeah that could be a good strategy. It seems the engineers are trying to achieve the most even clamping force possible on the whole head gasket. But as I said, Iv'e seen books for other engines use a three step process where the bolts get a bit tighter with each sequence pass. It just seems like a better idea to me....Thanks for posting.......

I think that’s a huge step up and should be a three step

👍😁

True I would be more confident seeing everything pump up with oil first.....

Sorry to hear the board burnt out again Greg. My attempts to solder remote fuse wires to the board failed, They kept breaking off. Usually wire that big would go into a through hole in the board then be soldered. Maybe you could drill some small holes for that, But can't be sure if there's any components underneath. I ended up getting frustrated and jumped them out. Bad idea it never worked again. My cousin got it for free so no big loss it was worth a try. Let me know if you figure anything out... Rob.........

Hi Robbieray. I feel determined to figure this out. I got this snow thrower for free, so getting the machine going for $100 was reasonable. Yeah, jumping it out seems logical, but I can also envision the smoke rolling out 😄. I now have two bad circuit boards. I'm just surprised there is not more about this online. Fortunately, I have my 8hp Ariens that I've had for 35 years and it runs great. I was going to use the EGO for my deck. There has to be a reason the fuse blows immediately, and I'll take a deeper dive before the blower hits the scrap pile. I just wanted to contribute to this issue. Thank you for writing back. Greg

@@gregbarber8258 LOL, I have a Arien's gas powered also. Good luck with the EGO unit. Rob.............

@@robbieraychannel Tnx Rob. There is something more serious going on here. The moment I pressed the switch, the fuse opened. The auger never even tried to start. I’m retired with some time to tinker, but I can’t find a schematic diagram for this unit. If you come across one, please ,eat me know. Greg

Eric, On the heads I would go the 22 ft. lbs. in sequence on all of them. Then 75 degrees with an angle meter on all in sequence. Then a final 75 degrees on all in sequence for a total of 150 degrees. Be sure to mark each bolt at 12:00 after the 22 ft. lb.pass. So when you do the degree part and if something happens like a socket slipping off you"ll know where that bolt is compared to the rest. As far as the valve seat go's It would be unlikely to make the seat to wide using just lapping compound. The bigger concern is the valve not closing completely especially exhaust valves, Because they can burn and even crack in a spot where the exhaust gasses are leaking by. Good luck with it!!!!! Rob...... p.s. What I show in the video is exactly whats in the GM manual for the head bolts for some reason I didn't film those pages. I just don't agree with them taking one large step in bolt tension like that. Most engines are at least a three step process.

Eric sorry I just read your question again and didn't realize exactly what you were asking yes I would go around at the 22 foot pounds as many times as it took to make sure they were all at 22 foot pounds before proceeding to the angle degree setting

Thank you.

Sorry not sure about that one. But you can try to see if your circuits like ignition, heater fan etc. run through factory relays. If they do any one of these smaller units should be fine. The problem I had was the circuits where direct and the little relays inside the unit couldn't handle the load that was placed on them. That's why I used the small internal relays to trigger large true 30 amp relays that I supplied. It's hard to explain unless you fully understand how relays work. ie. A small current controlling a larger current. Like starting your engine. The key switch triggers a relay that triggers a larger relay (the starter solenoid) for example... Hope this helps Happy new year!!!!!!

No problem glad it helped you out 😁

Sorry, But I just remembered on more thing Iv'e seen. Had a friend who was breaking down intermittently with the v-8 version of your truck. When I tested, it had no power to the fuel pump. While I was checking and moving things at the under hood fuse box I heard the fuel pump randomly prime. It ended up being a bad connection inside of the fuse box itself. (he fixed himself) so I didn't see it, But the truck has been fine since. He had replaced his EGR valve ( against my advice LOL ) because when he banged on it the truck would start. Turns out he was just rattling the poor connection in the fuse box without knowing it.

Did you get it fixed mine did the same and it ended up being the starter solenoid super easy to do its right on top of the fire wall passenger side

Your welcome!!!

LOL don't blame you. I have a video on how to bypass the heater core. Good luck with it!!!!

@@robbieraychannel oh yeah man I bypassed it back when it started leaking. I appreciate it though. Merry Christmas to you, and yours. 🎄

Awesome, I'm glad it worked out for ya !!!!

@@robbieraychannel I also had coolant down in some of the plug wells so I took a shop vacuum and a drinking straw and vacuumed the coolant out

Hector, thanks for posting I have also heard of what you're talking about by not disturbing the oil pump bolts. Sounds like a good idea to me as long as the new plastic slider fits perfectly on the old metal frame.