Robbie, let me give you a heads up. My 2010 Equinox 3.0L V6 was throwing P0018 and P0019 and P0340 and P0365 stored codes. I changed the four cam position sensors and the four solenoids, and all six of the spark plugs and coils. Still was throwing all sorts of pending codes and had no power; top speed was like 45 mph. My uneducated (engineer’s) guess was timing chains, so I called up my machinist/engine builder and asked if he’d do them…the sprockets, tensioners, guides, etc…everything new on the front of the engine. He was sure I had bent valves and said he’d do a leak down to start. Sure enough, the chain had slipped off the sprocket on Bank 1, but all the cylinders on Bank 1 passed leak down. That didn’t surprise me, as P0018 and P0019 are related to Bank 2. Luckily, all the valves were closed when the chain came off the sprocket AND the engine didn’t hydrolock when it kept dumping fuel into the right hand cylinders. So…the Bank 2 cylinders showed one cylinder failed leak down; the engine had compression on only two cylinders, explaining the no power condition. He calls me up and says I have bent valves on one cylinder, but as long as the engine is out of the car, he’s going to pull the heads and and inspect all the valves and pistons and make a final decision if the oil pan has to come off. Final diagnosis…NONE of the valves were bent and NONE of the pistons were touched! The carbon build up was so severe, it kept the one cylinder’s intake valves from seating properly. He’s doing a valve job on both heads, replacing stem seals and cleaning the tops of all six pistons prior to installing the new timing chains, guides, tensioners, sprockets, water pump, seals, etc., and stuffing the engine back in the car. All said and done, about $1,700 in parts (all GM) and $2,300 labor, for a total of $4,000. Not bad, for basically a new engine…sans piston rings and main bearings…given the original owner had sent it to the dismantler after getting the $8,000 estimate from the “stealership”.
Robbie...an update. Spoke to the original owner of my Equinox who told me she sent the car to the scrap yard because of the ridiculously high repair estimate given by the Chevy dealer. Off to the dealer I went. I asked him what they had determined was wrong with the car. He told me they had changed a bunch of sensors because of stored codes. Then he tells me he had given an estimate for work she had declined. This was for two catalytic converters, which in California can only be replaced with CARB certified units...for $4,000. I asked him what made him think the cats were bad...to which he said again codes for catalytic converter inefficiency. I told him the timing chain had come off the Bank 1 sprocket and the valves were all shut (with DI, this dumps all the fuel into the combustion chamber with nowhere to go) and the middle cylinder on Bank 2 had leaking valves due to carbon build up. Basically, the catalytic converters and O² sensors were being flooded with raw gas, causing the DTCs. So this incompetent dealer was going to charge $4,500 to replace two catalytic converters and four O² sensors and fix NOTHING!!! They had been...and continued to want to throw...the previous owner's hard earned money at symptoms rather the the cause of the DTCs. Incompetent idiots.
Hi RobbiRay, very well done videos with a lot of good procedures explained. Thank you! I am currently doing the same job on a 2007 GMC Acadia with 3.6. I have a question on head bolt torquing; should I go around numerous times at the initial ftlb torque to ensure no more head gasket compression; before I do the 150 degree final? Thanks Eric @GrampasGarage2795
Eric sorry I just read your question again and didn't realize exactly what you were asking yes I would go around at the 22 foot pounds as many times as it took to make sure they were all at 22 foot pounds before proceeding to the angle degree setting
Hi again RobbieRay, Another question. When you lapped out the off centered valve seat in the head; did you have “too wide” of a seating area? Thanks Eric @GrampasGarage2795
Eric, On the heads I would go the 22 ft. lbs. in sequence on all of them. Then 75 degrees with an angle meter on all in sequence. Then a final 75 degrees on all in sequence for a total of 150 degrees. Be sure to mark each bolt at 12:00 after the 22 ft. lb.pass. So when you do the degree part and if something happens like a socket slipping off you"ll know where that bolt is compared to the rest. As far as the valve seat go's It would be unlikely to make the seat to wide using just lapping compound. The bigger concern is the valve not closing completely especially exhaust valves, Because they can burn and even crack in a spot where the exhaust gasses are leaking by. Good luck with it!!!!! Rob...... p.s. What I show in the video is exactly whats in the GM manual for the head bolts for some reason I didn't film those pages. I just don't agree with them taking one large step in bolt tension like that. Most engines are at least a three step process.
According to the book I have they should be the same. I can't seem to upload the link, But if you need the factory service manual I can email it to you. But I would need your email address
Crap GM engines: Vega 2300, 350 Diesel, North Star V8, Ecotec 2.2/2.4 and apparently 3.6 V6. Ecotec and 3.6 don't matter they have timing chains, the stupid plastic guides fall apart, like the plastic cam gears of their 60s-70s engines. I heard that Yugo makes some quality automobiles...
I wouldn’t say crap engines, they are sophisticated technology and can’t be treated like pushrod engines…say the 3800 V6. You must use a high end synthetic motor oil, and change it more frequently than the oil service light recommends…no more than 5,000 miles compared to the 7,500 service reminder. And make sure you check the dipstick at least every other week, even if you don’t experience oil loss. The other “must do” is clean the intake valves with a high quality GDI valve cleaner, like CRC or Seafoam…at least every 12 to 18 months, depending on the mileage and your driving style. GM is really missing out on service $$$$…but making it up by having the service techs send you to the sales floor when you “done blowed up” your crap engine.
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Robbie, let me give you a heads up. My 2010 Equinox 3.0L V6 was throwing P0018 and P0019 and P0340 and P0365 stored codes. I changed the four cam position sensors and the four solenoids, and all six of the spark plugs and coils. Still was throwing all sorts of pending codes and had no power; top speed was like 45 mph. My uneducated (engineer’s) guess was timing chains, so I called up my machinist/engine builder and asked if he’d do them…the sprockets, tensioners, guides, etc…everything new on the front of the engine.
He was sure I had bent valves and said he’d do a leak down to start. Sure enough, the chain had slipped off the sprocket on Bank 1, but all the cylinders on Bank 1 passed leak down. That didn’t surprise me, as P0018 and P0019 are related to Bank 2. Luckily, all the valves were closed when the chain came off the sprocket AND the engine didn’t hydrolock when it kept dumping fuel into the right hand cylinders.
So…the Bank 2 cylinders showed one cylinder failed leak down; the engine had compression on only two cylinders, explaining the no power condition. He calls me up and says I have bent valves on one cylinder, but as long as the engine is out of the car, he’s going to pull the heads and and inspect all the valves and pistons and make a final decision if the oil pan has to come off.
Final diagnosis…NONE of the valves were bent and NONE of the pistons were touched! The carbon build up was so severe, it kept the one cylinder’s intake valves from seating properly. He’s doing a valve job on both heads, replacing stem seals and cleaning the tops of all six pistons prior to installing the new timing chains, guides, tensioners, sprockets, water pump, seals, etc., and stuffing the engine back in the car. All said and done, about $1,700 in parts (all GM) and $2,300 labor, for a total of $4,000. Not bad, for basically a new engine…sans piston rings and main bearings…given the original owner had sent it to the dismantler after getting the $8,000 estimate from the “stealership”.
Thanks for the info. I hope it all works out good for ya !!!
Robbie...an update. Spoke to the original owner of my Equinox who told me she sent the car to the scrap yard because of the ridiculously high repair estimate given by the Chevy dealer. Off to the dealer I went. I asked him what they had determined was wrong with the car. He told me they had changed a bunch of sensors because of stored codes. Then he tells me he had given an estimate for work she had declined. This was for two catalytic converters, which in California can only be replaced with CARB certified units...for $4,000.
I asked him what made him think the cats were bad...to which he said again codes for catalytic converter inefficiency. I told him the timing chain had come off the Bank 1 sprocket and the valves were all shut (with DI, this dumps all the fuel into the combustion chamber with nowhere to go) and the middle cylinder on Bank 2 had leaking valves due to carbon build up.
Basically, the catalytic converters and O² sensors were being flooded with raw gas, causing the DTCs. So this incompetent dealer was going to charge $4,500 to replace two catalytic converters and four O² sensors and fix NOTHING!!!
They had been...and continued to want to throw...the previous owner's hard earned money at symptoms rather the the cause of the DTCs.
Incompetent idiots.
Hi RobbiRay, very well done videos with a lot of good procedures explained. Thank you! I am currently doing the same job on a 2007 GMC Acadia with 3.6. I have a question on head bolt torquing; should I go around numerous times at the initial ftlb torque to ensure no more head gasket compression; before I do the 150 degree final?
Thanks
Eric
@GrampasGarage2795
Eric sorry I just read your question again and didn't realize exactly what you were asking yes I would go around at the 22 foot pounds as many times as it took to make sure they were all at 22 foot pounds before proceeding to the angle degree setting
Thank you.
Hi again RobbieRay,
Another question. When you lapped out the off centered valve seat in the head; did you have “too wide” of a seating area?
Thanks
Eric
@GrampasGarage2795
Eric, On the heads I would go the 22 ft. lbs. in sequence on all of them. Then 75 degrees with an angle meter on all in sequence. Then a final 75 degrees on all in sequence for a total of 150 degrees. Be sure to mark each bolt at 12:00 after the 22 ft. lb.pass. So when you do the degree part and if something happens like a socket slipping off you"ll know where that bolt is compared to the rest. As far as the valve seat go's It would be unlikely to make the seat to wide using just lapping compound. The bigger concern is the valve not closing completely especially exhaust valves, Because they can burn and even crack in a spot where the exhaust gasses are leaking by. Good luck with it!!!!! Rob...... p.s. What I show in the video is exactly whats in the GM manual for the head bolts for some reason I didn't film those pages. I just don't agree with them taking one large step in bolt tension like that. Most engines are at least a three step process.
I probe the cam n crank sensors multi meter power probe hard start cranks nd starts sometimes dead give away it’s goin out
Are your series of videos for the 2008 also?
According to the book I have they should be the same. I can't seem to upload the link, But if you need the factory service manual I can email it to you. But I would need your email address
Crap GM engines: Vega 2300, 350 Diesel, North Star V8, Ecotec 2.2/2.4 and apparently 3.6 V6. Ecotec and 3.6 don't matter they have timing chains, the stupid plastic guides fall apart, like the plastic cam gears of their 60s-70s engines. I heard that Yugo makes some quality automobiles...
I hear ya, It's like working with throw away engines.
I wouldn’t say crap engines, they are sophisticated technology and can’t be treated like pushrod engines…say the 3800 V6. You must use a high end synthetic motor oil, and change it more frequently than the oil service light recommends…no more than 5,000 miles compared to the 7,500 service reminder. And make sure you check the dipstick at least every other week, even if you don’t experience oil loss.
The other “must do” is clean the intake valves with a high quality GDI valve cleaner, like CRC or Seafoam…at least every 12 to 18 months, depending on the mileage and your driving style. GM is really missing out on service $$$$…but making it up by having the service techs send you to the sales floor when you “done blowed up” your crap engine.