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As owner of 2 Hyundai's (an Elantra and a Tucson) I know its all in the oil and lifters. These engines are very oil "sensitive". Found out that a high quality full synthetic oil (like Mobil 1 or Castrol) with viscosity according to operating temperature range, tends to fix this. Besides that, helps a lot keeping engine innards cleaner. Regards!
I have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra and I just put Noble 1 5W30 in as that's what the cap says 5W30 and now I hear the ticking noise all the time which I did not hear prior to when I had 10w30
I have also the same problem with my 2014 elantra, when the engine was cold and started it these ticking noise comes up but when the engine is getting hot the noise disappear
My 2013 Elantra started doing it too somewhere around 80,000 miles. I honestly wouldn't worry too much. It only does it for about 10 minutes after you start the car and from there you won't really hear it anymore as you drive or sit in idle. I know a ton of people are worried but sometimes we freak out too much about sounds we're hearing from under the hood. Wear and tear is normal. Cars sounding a little bit rougher after several thousand miles is going to happen. I hear people getting new engines when you probably could go another 50,000 or 100k miles with your original engine and have no issues. Ride it till it dies. With all the time you spend trying to get it looked at and even getting a new one, you don't know if you'll end up encountering more worse problems. I mean, the risk is up to you, but I would just ride it till you can’t anymore.
@@chinaboss6683 Cars are sensitive machines. Sometimes messing with something you think is a problem or it really is but is minor, can create an even bigger problem that you may not even be able to fix at that point.
I agree. I find that ticks or mild knocks that go away once warmed up aren't worth doing anything about. I've had many cars tick when cold that went well over 200k miles.
@@wigletron2846 Well, guess what: I ended up having to get rid of that car last year when the tick got worse. And Hyundai refused to replace the engine. So I traded it in. It's possible the car could've lasted another 3 years or only 3 weeks, but I couldn't take the risk and let her go. One thing is for sure: I'll never buy Hyundai again.
@@medrickgodin8865that’s awesome! I have a 2019, same engine tho as the 2013 pretty much and I noticed putting the engine treatments and changing my oil every 3-4000km helps dramatically with my Elantra, I don’t know if you do the same? Mine burns oil like you wouldn’t believe. So I have to change it more frequently. I have about 160,000 km on there right now so hearing that your Elantra is going strong, makes me more confident then I was 😂
Disconnecting ignition coils and fuel injectors isn't a way to test for piston slap. The pistons will still slap around inside their cylinders as long as the pistons are going up and down
I would definitely get this checked out. I also had a tick on acceleration of my 2014 Elantra and I had to wait over two months for a new engine. Warrenty covered it, only because I had every single maintence receipt. It was only 4 years old with 110,000. There was over 15 other elantras waiting for new engines at the same time as mine from just that single dealership, the only way I found this out was because I got a engine shop to rip apart my engine and contact Hyundai to figure out what’s going wrong with these vehicles. They were turning people away right and left and centre that didn’t have the paper work. I was confused why they weren’t being recalled. Then after the replacement, they give you 90 days warranty on the new engine. I know two other people that had the same issues. Elantra’s are honestly super quiet, it was a dream until that happened.
Dakota Elli my friend lost his car the dealership told him he wasn’t Cover 2013 Hyundai Elantra GLS 78,000 Miles Second Owner And The Repair for a new engine was $3,000 He didn’t know what to do and he had a Loan of $8,000 on it
vPanda- CA There it’s Not Recalls On This Issue But Try To Contact Hyundai Warranty Directly, They May Extend the Warranty Coverage For You Since it’s Something Related To the Engine, My Friend Didn’t Know He has a New Car Now And A Big Loan To Pay
[FIXED] I had the same problem. The repair guy said it may be a valve lifter. It turned out a piston slap. So I ordered the same parts 'DNG' like in this video, from Amazon with delivery to Bulgaria. The repair guy said that the cylinder walls are too thin to be bored out, so only he did only honing. I changed many things - all pistons, a full set of gaskets, the long block bolts, all valve lifters, tensioner, timing chain, connecting rod bearings. I topped that with XADO 1 Stage Maximum. Now I have to drive 3000km under 3000rpm after the engine repair and change the oil after that. The new oil is 10w40. After the change, I think to use Ravenol 10w30, the silver one. The total cost till now for parts and repair - 1500 euro. Car: Elantra Coupe 2013, 87000 km
@@AlexisLobos so what would cause this noise on an accent? My car is doing this and we can’t figure out what it is!! It gets louder and faster with acceleration but rarely hearing when traveling 60+, maybe every once in a while if accelerating up a hill and don’t have the music on I’ll hear it “clicking” real loud for a second and then Goes away, but is very noticeable when going under 20 mph and upon startup and when just idling.
@@paytensplace5046hi there i know this comment is over two years but i want to ask you if you found out the problem on that Hyundai accent a friend of mine has a 2016 and i noticed that does exactly the same thing your mentioned . I'll appreciate it if anyone one can tell me
Mine did this recently got a tune up and oil change then I noticed it was idling hard. Put seafoam in it works as good as new. It also helps to keep up on all the fluids on these motors just an fyi read online they have tinier pistons I guess prior to the 10' model.
I have a 2010 kia forte 2.0 and I had the same noise for years. Last year(2018) I put half bottle Marvin mystery oil and half can seafoam, used for one month, changed oil and about sixty percent of tick noise went away. Try this method. It may also work for you.
Yeah. Marvel Mystery Oil or just oil change more often until it goes away. MMO has detergents to get the carbon out. Oil has detergents too. So if you were to change the oil more often it would do the same.
Nice video. I just bought a 2010 Hyundai Elantra Touring and it has a ticking noise. So did you ever discover what it was? I changed oil and even put oil treatment in BUT it still ticks/pings mainly during acceleration. Help me out please.
Hey Valerie. If you still have your Elantra, you might want to check the more recent videos from World Mechanics and others to see if your engine is on the list of 1.8 liter engines with well known ticking problems that can result in complete engine failure. There is some key info in the comments too, just search for 2010 Elantra to see what people have learned so far. Hyundai did replace the core of my Elantra engine without cost as soon as it developed the ‘piston valve slap’ ticking sound at around 110,000 kms. I thought i was fortunate to have a ‘new’ engine but my car developed the same problem after another 60,000 kms. Today my car is stuck at the dealership garage with an estimated repair cost which is nearly double what the car is worth. It won’t run so my only option may be to have it towed away to salvage. I feel fortunate for getting a lot of use out of a used Elantra that I didn’t pay much for, but i wish i could have traded it in to help my daughter buy a vehicle. 🤔 My recommendation would be to make a move sooner rather than later to a car with a better rep. while your car still has some value. Good luck!🤞
It's the short block. NU 1.8L engines made in Alabama from 2011 - 2016 had a defect, Hyundai is switching out short blocks for no cost. I'm in Ontario Canada and the dealership just ordered a new short block and will arrive next week. Alabama plant is paying.
I have the same noise with my Elentra 2015 2.0 eng with 185k KM. the weather is very hot in Saudi Arabia 44 Celsius I change the oil every 5k synthetic oil 5W30 and when cold start up i hear it out . After warming up no any noise. Is it the oil pump or ? Valves ?
I have an 06 Sonata with 2.4L engine with the same problem. I ended up by taking the engine apart. Replaced all the rod bearings with oversized ones. Grinding the crank at a local machine shop here in Florida. Now it runs perfect with no ticking or any sort of noise
Question... I had my 2013 elantra idle rough then stall on me. Its cold outside here now but I had been driving the car for atleast 30mins before this happened. I let it for a few mins then started it and it was fine. I drove 5 miles at the most and as i started up a hill this ticking started. Idk where to even start on locating exactly what the problem is. It sounds like its coming from the belt side of the motor. When it stalled it felt like the serpentine belt had broken or slipped off but it hadn't. Any advice on what I should do is greatly appreciated.
Dealer told me last week I need a new engine (and not covered by warranty)but couldn't specify why. This ticking has been going from 70k to now/83k miles on my '13 Elantra, getting a little louder but otherwise no problems, loss of power, etc. I'm perplexed and pissed at Hyundai for totally turning their back on me. I'm in St Louis, looking for suggestions on how to resolve.
I was just told the same thing by the dealer after a service on my 2014 1.8 i30. its done 255,000km but the oil and filter changed every 7,500 religiously and has lived its life on Castrol edge. They said its making a rattling noise, when I started it, it was fine. Its always had a tick in the top end from new, when you start it from cold. When it does it, if you stop the engine wait a few seconds and restart, the tick is gone.
My 2013 Elantra GT hatchback just started this at 261,000 miles. I use Full Synthetic oil only. I'm going to bring it to the garage tomorrow after work.
A great video. Very informative. Well explained. Well done. I have definitely learn't from this video as I have an IX35 with a DOHC 16V engine. Thank you very much.
pnavan I don’t know if you got this repair done already or not but the inhibitor switch is a very common recall on some Hyundai’s. I work in a Hyundai Service drive and I would bring your car in to see if there are any active recalls. Some vehicles are getting a free oil change as well so I would recommend a dealership visit at some point
I have a same noise in my car. It’s an elantra 2011. it can be fix by this way but after i changed oil it starts again in 2000km. Want to fix it any suggestions.. Thanks
It's either piston slap or lifter clearance. These engines do not have Hydraulic last adjusters there straight lifter bucket on top of the valve stem. Very archaic if you ask me. Easy way to differentiate between valve lash and piston slap is wether the noise increases or decreases or stays the same between a hot anyone and a cold engine. These engines are famous for piston slap that is the result of just starting the car and driving when stone cold. To avoid this for aslong as possible be sure to warm the engine up every time before driving. So let idle for say 5 to 10 minutes for the first start of the day and if let sit for longer then about 1 hour. But if only left for say 5 or 10 minutes then start the engine before putting your belt on and getting ready to drive. Even start your car while loading the shopping into it. Piston slap requires a partial rebuild.
Hi I have a Hyundai Elantra 2016 I have a similar sound like that on my car. Old engine sound with a ticking nose. I had a oil change but the the sound is still there?? What do I do?? There’s no warning signs on my dashboard. I bring in my car to my local mechanic and was told their was no problem with my car (diagnostic was ran) nothing found.
I have the same car and there was a recall on 2013. The dealership changed the engine block with no cost. I have noticed that these cars suck gas a lot. Does yours do that? What is the solution?
Mine has original engine makes the sound slight. But gets great gas mileage. 35 to 45 mpg yes I have gotten as high as 50 mpg with this car yes I'm not lying. And original spark plugs and 127k miles
Hi, i love your video. I have a 2009 Elantra, it works well, but does not change gears , it stays in gear 1 and refuses to change. How can i fix it. Thanks for your response.
i bought a 2006 hyundai sonata with 46000 miles and am trying to find out the severe sound coming from the engine (thrashing noise.) might only be the pulleys but i am concerned might be more. i want to see all of the videos concerning the piston slap problem and rebuild steps so i can fix the issue . please help me with all info you have
It's normal in cold temperature on cold start for that noise. The timing chain tensioner is oil pressure driven, so once vehicle warms up and has proper oil pressure (use a hyundai filter only on these) then vehicle should quiet down. I'm a Hyundai Technician. These engines only develop knock if oil isn't changed on time and often enough. 3,750 is the interval for city/highway driving.
@@ZynovFTW Hi. I have a 2013 with 50k miles. About 45k it started ticking. I use synthetic oil. Do I need to change it that soon with synthetic? Plus, I also use mobile one synthetic filter. What do you suggest on that? Thanks
@ZynovFTW my 2015 still runs does the same sound I've changed alot oils now im with shell but it didn't fix the problem or anything still sound the same
@@iflarnted yeah I just found my owners manual (it was mia) and it does list 5w-30 and even 10w-30 as suitable depending on temperature. I’m in Az so I’ll try 5w-30 as summer approaches.
My grandma has had several Hyundais from brand new and her sonata and elantra both had a tick since brand new, not a knock or a loud tick, just a decent little tick.
@@nathanieldinnwiddie6901 makes no difference. Its either the fuel injection system or the hydraulic lifters imo. Not a problem and shes put hundreds of thousands of miles on them this way.
Try to use thicker oil. Because I’m in hot climat country. I use 10w40 semi syn all the way. I bought the car used 90km and now I’m at 125km no ticking. Mine was 1.6 mpi gamma engine
@@desmondgreatdevil different engine my grandma's engine is the 1.8l Nu, not the 1.6l Gamma. It's never ever been a problem you don't even hear then engine unless it's running and you open the hood
I was watching this video, as I was also having the same some humming noise related issues when accelerating while driving, but not getting humming when accelerating at stand still. Please suggest what could be the problem. I am using Hyundai i20 2011 model
Could the pcv make that sound to ? Because I just got my oil changed n a day later my check engine came on so I went to Auto zone n had a diagnostic check and the pcv came up as the problem
My 2013 elantra sounds the same as car in vid. Gonna try Lucas oil stabilizer...stuff is pretty good. Hopefully will keep engine going, as it has already been replaced (by Hyundai for original owner).
Same in my gets 1.4 ...it ticks on startup for about 5 mins then runs ok , I replaced all drive belts and it improved for couple months but its back again
Class action lawsuit from 2010 to 2013 Elantra. Engine was replaced and I had to pay a percentage of the install. Dealership did right with me. There are certain restrictions on eligibility.
@@joshuasinnema9107 The rep at the dealership acknowledged this was happening and asked me to call corporate to submit a ticket and get a case number. There were some eligibility requirements I had to pass. I can’t remember the exact qualifications, but it had to do with cold weather climate and driving conditions. No issues being in Florida. It’s as if the government and Hyundai settled on this recall and that is why it wasn’t broadcasted and every engine replaced.
Hi Guys! I have the same problem. I did the same tests and I can not find a solution, please help! The scanner shows no errors..Do you know something else?
Piston slap is what you engine has when it makes that sound. Mine went into Hyundai for an inspection and sure enough my car had piston slap. Hyundai has ordered a brand new motor for my car and will be installed in two weeks from now under the recall on the motor and it's all free. $6500 Canadian for the motor, and near 3000 for labor. my car has 77.000 km Talk to your dealer folks.
I talked to my dealer and they wouldn’t fix it. I have a 2015 83,000 miles Elantra. Because I am the second owner they won’t fix it. They wanted me to pay for half. Why should I pay for their error? I am angry and don’t know what to do
I have Elantra 2013 gls it start a few weeks ago when car it’s on D example waiting for the red light car shakes rpm moves up down or down up its self and I feel car Want to start move it’s self now this think happen even it’s on P or N No engine light 💡 shows what should I do thanks
Mine is the same (2011 elentra) once I put Mobil 1 high mileage full synthetic oil in the knocking reduced by alot, I had a synthetic blend in before and it was loud so the oil definitely helps.
Is it an elantra?..i have a 2011 and it knocks on start up too, they say its a defect on these models and hyundai doesnt make it too public i i hear you can take it to the dealer and they will replace the engine free..its a recall actually..theres a video on that..
Hi there i have an ancien hyundai trajet 2002. I lately had driven it but there was à sud d'en knocking sound . What to do ? What to check? Is it a simple issue or should i have to change thé engine?
Those have what's known as bucket lifters that sit over the valve and spring and the cams sit over the top and operate directly on the top of the lifter , aftermarket set from ebay and do the work yourself , around $150 unless you also change belts and/or gaskets if needed .
Is this really an issue. I have 2016 Elantra. Notice the tik tik noise when I put it in drive. Don't hear it otherwise. I started noticing this only recently when it cold.
You both should take it to the dealer if you are the first owner as they can put in a new motor if it needs it. They wouldn’t help me with mine because I am second owner.
engine ticking is NOT normal for any car. should have done an OOPS and wrapped it around a phone pole and got a new car.. you have an engine doing something called dieseling. its also known as piston slap. this is from the rings wearing prematurely and can no longer center the piston as it rides the engine wall and scores the block. hyundai is known for this around 75,000 miles. oil change is a mere mask until the oil wear out again.
Some people don't know the 1.6L gdi doesn't have hydraulic lifters. The valves need to be adjusted with shims inside buckets every 80000km or 60k miles.
I agree i bought a hyundai i20 and it said this noise. And I got so scared. But after search on internet i found out that this was all normal. Im an kia mechanic myself and we also have picanto that sound like this from factory. And if you want to run a warrenty case. By sending the video of the noise. It almost everytime gets declined
My Rio started making more noises, so I began paying attention to other Kia and Hyundai. Surprisingly they all have this noisy engines. Even brand new ones.
@tiago Can confirm. I have a 2020 forte gt line with 2.0. I only have 4500 miles on it. I freaked out but started doing research. I'm finding it's normal. I'm very sensitive to noises. I guess I'll roll with it. 100k warranty makes me feel a little better.
@@douchebaggins7 Yeah man I am the same way, Its almost a downfall because I worry for nothing. When I was hearing this with my sonata I literally went to a dealer and had them start and run the same car so I could put myself at ease. It looked and sounded exactly the same. I now have 60k miles and same sounds but never had a problem
Do i actually need to worry about this? My new to me 2013 has 40k and it ticks slightly at startup but it’s also 0degrees here in Iowa. It runs and drives fine and noise goes away once engine is warm.. I feel like I’ve had other cars that make noise too.. Running 0w-20 full synthetic
These engines are just inherently noisy. I'm pretty sure its normal with their GDI engines. Should still go strong for years. My wives Elantra sounds the same.
Hydraulic lifters my diesel 1.3 cdti fiat engine has been the same for last 2 +years oil n filter change quieten it for a while it then returned but motor runs fine only got 45k on so these good for 150k.
I too have the same problem. Please let me know that exact fix. I raise this to dealership but they refused bcz my car warranty has expired. I bought this new car in 2014.
@sploitx Just an FYI to those reading comments. The 2018 Elantra (original post) has some engines with GDI and some with MPI. So this doesn't apply to all.
@Vince C I have a 2017 elantra which I bought in July. When the weather was hot I never noticed a ticking noise. Then when the weather turned cold, i noticed it ticked really loud especially when I accelerated. The car only had 10,000 miles by then. When the motor warmed up it mostly quit ticking. I have 50,000 miles now and it still does it but I just quit worrying about it. The Dealer said it was the fuel injection. Maybe that's true... maybe not. Anyway the Dealer wouldn't do anything about it and just said it was normal. So I just let it go.
Isn't there a lawsuit on these models? Carbon build up on the pistons and something else , I recieved the paperwork through mail! And also mine is a 2013 Hyundai Elantra Coupe idk what all models were recalled or well in a lawsuit to replace the whole motor.
I have one problem in my elantra. When I stop my car the engine shakes violently. As soon as I release the brakes or put the transmission on Neutral then it is normal. Does any one knows anything about it? One mechanic told me to change the chair on which engine is sitting.
I too have the same problem. Please let me know that exact fix. I raise this to dealership but they refused bcz my car warranty has expired. I bought this new car in 2014.
Same issue with my because I am the second owner I am out of warranty. Now I have a 2015 Elantra with 83,000 miles that’s motor is going to trash because they won’t fix it
Did it fix it and is it going to stay fixed? I'm not to sure if mines the lifters or something else. When I first start it up it makes a loud sound kind of like it might be the lifters but then it goes away. I'm assuming if it's bad lifters you'd hear it all the time correct? Also, if I start my car then turn it off and start it again I don't hear it. And if I do it makes significantly less noise.
you didn't check the oil level before you started the car up. and another thing. Stay off the throttle when you start the engine. Never give it gas when you start it unless it won't fire on its own. especially when it has sat overnight. The car will start on idle. at idle there is the least amount of pressure on all of the bearings while it builds oil pressure and circulates oil. Don't spin the engine up before it's had a chance to circulate the oil. If the engine is cold just let it idle for at least 15 seconds before you touch the throttle. think about it. why slam pressure on the rod and crank bearings before they had a chance to get oiled. Most of the wear on an engine happens in the first 3 minutes of it starting from cold. once it's fully warmed up, go ahead a flog it. but when the oil is cold it doesn't lubricate as well and the metal parts haven't expanded to the correct size so you have too much clearance between parts until they expand. This is especially important at the top and bottom of the rod where the motion reverses. The wrist pin and the lower rod bearing shells. Not to mention the crankshaft bearing shells where the crank sits in the block.
Hey there Carbon Crank...... Here is what you said "when the oil is cold it has less viscosity and the metal parts haven't expanded to the correct size and the metal parts haven't expanded to the correct size so you have too much clearance between parts until they expand.". Please note this part: "when the oil is cold it has less viscosity and the metal parts haven't expanded to the correct size so you have too much clearance between parts until they expand." More specifically this part that REALLY got me., "and the metal parts haven't expanded to the correct size so you have too much clearance between parts until they expand." Viscosity (noun) · viscosities (plural noun) The state of being thick, sticky, and semifluid in consistency, due to internal friction: "cooling the fluid raises its viscosity" Modern oil is a multi-viscosity oil to PREVENT exactly what you're speaking about. At cold temps oil's viscosity is constant. a 50 or a 10.... viscosity stays constant. Below 32 degrees F, the oil changes to the lower viscosity oil, because the clearances are TIGHTER when cold, you dumb ass. Metal will expand ... ALLL the metal, not only the crank. Also, the forces of the change in momentum are not applied to the crank and connecting rod "shells" (LOL). Those forces are LATERAL to the journals. Man, it's like my 14 year old wrote a post on RUclips after listening to grandpa talk shop from the 40's.. You don't sound intelligent with all of this shit. It makes you sound like a un-informed know-it-all. This entire comment rubbed me so wrong that I had to leave this diatribe in hopes that since you posted this. Damn man, this thing pissed me off.
@@gamersroost You arrogant prick. Earth made you think I didn't know what viscosity meant? Everybody uses multi-grade oils now. It's a given that Multi-grade oils make cold oil flow better when it's cold. And that's it. Period. It circulates quicker and builds oil pressure faster when it's cold than if it was thick, but if you think cold oil lubricates as well as warm oil then you're a dumbass. "Below 32 degrees F, the oil changes to the lower viscosity oil, because the clearances are TIGHTER when cold, you dumb ass." No, the clearances are not tighter when the engine is cold. There goes your credibility because you've got that thing about clearances backward. (I addressed that below) The oil is lower viscosity so that it will FLOW faster and fill the spaces where oil has drained away overnight quickly, you dumbass. Here you talk out of both sides of your mouth when you said "More specifically this part that REALLY got me., "and the metal parts haven't expanded to the correct size so you have too much clearance between parts until they expand." You say that part really got you you got but instead of addressing whether what I said about Metal Parts expanding was right or not you went into a diatribe about viscosity that didn't tell me anything I didn't already know. But then in the following paragraph, you said "Metal will expand ... ALLL the metal, not only the crank." isn't that exactly what I said? My advice simply stated don't put any load on the engine until it's had time to build oil pressure and warm up a little. I don't know where you get the notion that clearances (tolerance) are tighter when the engine is cold. Metal contracts when it's cold and expands when it's hot. Which has a higher diameter? A cold piston or a hot piston? Which has a larger diameter, a cold connecting rod or a hot connecting rod? What has a larger diameter, a cold crankshaft or a hot crankshaft? Low viscosity oil flows better so it more quickly fills the larger spaces with oil than if it was thick but it still doesn't lubricate as well until it's warmed up and the parts are designed to be the right size at operating temperature. If there's less clearance when cold then explain these fun facts to me. Higher mileage engines that burn oil and smoke when they're cold but not when they're warmed up. Some Racecar engines that do the same, engines on old warbirds that belch clouds of oil smoke when they first start but they don't smoke when they're warmed up. Some old engines knock when they're cold but the knock completely goes away when they're warm. And overheated engines where Pistons expand so much They seize up in the cylinder. That stuff you wrote about forces of the change in momentum had nothing to do with anything I wrote and why did you put shells in quotation marks with a lol? You're trying to sound like the expert here and you don't know what a crankshaft bearing shell is? You don't write like somebody that's very intelligent.. The highest wear rate of metal parts in engines is when the oil is cold and the parts aren't at operating temperature. I was simply giving advice on how to start an engine in a manner that creates the least amount of wear. I stand by everything I wrote and I think the advice is good. PS. I can see where you think I misused the word viscosity in my original post. I should have said it doesn't lubricate as well when cold but I think most people got the point and it didn't change my advice.
My 2011 has a rattle at start up. Lasts maybe 2 seconds when engine is cold. Warm engine restart it doesn't do it. Done it since new. Now @291k miles.🙃
I did notice when I bought the car more than 2 years ago. It happens when the car is cold. I got used to it. There is a lawsuit regarding this. I got the notice in the mail. If you can live with the noise you should be fine.
I have a 2015 Elantra and my dealer won’t fix it says out of warranty car has 83,000miles and it is 5yrs old. They offered to pay for half but why should I pay for a manufacture error? 😡
My 2013 Elantra started making the ticking/tapping noise. They are replacing the whole small block free. Google :Hyundai Technical Service Bulletin 14-20-002
Aaron Silver they are dealers. They said your car warranty has expired. On the time of purchase the warranty was 3 years. Now i don’t know to whom I should escalate. Might i need to find someone in Korea headquarters.
@@thenditharam I tried it as an experiment on my 2010 kia sedona and it reduced noise significantly and till date not seen any negative effect. If cause of engine knocking at your end is because of an internal part’s damage then it may not be of any help.
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I have a same noise in my car. Can you suggest me what should i do? Or how to fix it?
Thanks in advance
Thanks. I know if i should keep the oil or change it
As owner of 2 Hyundai's (an Elantra and a Tucson) I know its all in the oil and lifters. These engines are very oil "sensitive". Found out that a high quality full synthetic oil (like Mobil 1 or Castrol) with viscosity according to operating temperature range, tends to fix this. Besides that, helps a lot keeping engine innards cleaner. Regards!
I have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra and I just put Noble 1 5W30 in as that's what the cap says 5W30 and now I hear the ticking noise all the time which I did not hear prior to when I had 10w30
@@daby8399 if the car has more than 75K miles, High Mileage oil should be used.
Do you recommend changing the oil filter too along with the high mileage oil. I'm having this issue
I always replace rhe filter when changing oil...
I have also the same problem with my 2014 elantra, when the engine was cold and started it these ticking noise comes up but when the engine is getting hot the noise disappear
My 2013 Elantra started doing it too somewhere around 80,000 miles. I honestly wouldn't worry too much. It only does it for about 10 minutes after you start the car and from there you won't really hear it anymore as you drive or sit in idle. I know a ton of people are worried but sometimes we freak out too much about sounds we're hearing from under the hood. Wear and tear is normal. Cars sounding a little bit rougher after several thousand miles is going to happen.
I hear people getting new engines when you probably could go another 50,000 or 100k miles with your original engine and have no issues. Ride it till it dies. With all the time you spend trying to get it looked at and even getting a new one, you don't know if you'll end up encountering more worse problems. I mean, the risk is up to you, but I would just ride it till you can’t anymore.
@@chinaboss6683 Cars are sensitive machines. Sometimes messing with something you think is a problem or it really is but is minor, can create an even bigger problem that you may not even be able to fix at that point.
I agree. I find that ticks or mild knocks that go away once warmed up aren't worth doing anything about. I've had many cars tick when cold that went well over 200k miles.
@@wigletron2846 Well, guess what: I ended up having to get rid of that car last year when the tick got worse. And Hyundai refused to replace the engine. So I traded it in. It's possible the car could've lasted another 3 years or only 3 weeks, but I couldn't take the risk and let her go. One thing is for sure: I'll never buy Hyundai again.
when I bought my 2013 Elantra it had 104000 km with a tick. It now has over 400,000 km with no worse of a tick and still going strong
Fake story for dummies
And is it still ticking?
Thank you fornposting this. A tiny bit of reassurance.
@@Ernestosv982 yes and over480000 kms
@@medrickgodin8865that’s awesome! I have a 2019, same engine tho as the 2013 pretty much and I noticed putting the engine treatments and changing my oil every 3-4000km helps dramatically with my Elantra, I don’t know if you do the same? Mine burns oil like you wouldn’t believe. So I have to change it more frequently. I have about 160,000 km on there right now so hearing that your Elantra is going strong, makes me more confident then I was 😂
Disconnecting ignition coils and fuel injectors isn't a way to test for piston slap. The pistons will still slap around inside their cylinders as long as the pistons are going up and down
💯 true 👍
Depending on how bad the slap is, it can quiet it down very noticeably.
I would definitely get this checked out. I also had a tick on acceleration of my 2014 Elantra and I had to wait over two months for a new engine. Warrenty covered it, only because I had every single maintence receipt. It was only 4 years old with 110,000. There was over 15 other elantras waiting for new engines at the same time as mine from just that single dealership, the only way I found this out was because I got a engine shop to rip apart my engine and contact Hyundai to figure out what’s going wrong with these vehicles. They were turning people away right and left and centre that didn’t have the paper work. I was confused why they weren’t being recalled. Then after the replacement, they give you 90 days warranty on the new engine. I know two other people that had the same issues. Elantra’s are honestly super quiet, it was a dream until that happened.
Dakota Elli my friend lost his car the dealership told him he wasn’t Cover 2013 Hyundai Elantra GLS 78,000 Miles Second Owner And The Repair for a new engine was $3,000 He didn’t know what to do and he had a Loan of $8,000 on it
Oscar T I have the same problem and I don’t know what to do. The dealership told me that there aren’t any recalls about it.
vPanda- CA There it’s Not Recalls On This Issue But Try To Contact Hyundai Warranty Directly, They May Extend the Warranty Coverage For You Since it’s Something Related To the Engine, My Friend Didn’t Know He has a New Car Now And A Big Loan To Pay
Did they ever say what was causing the noise and how it originated??
[FIXED] I had the same problem. The repair guy said it may be a valve lifter. It turned out a piston slap. So I ordered the same parts 'DNG' like in this video, from Amazon with delivery to Bulgaria. The repair guy said that the cylinder walls are too thin to be bored out, so only he did only honing. I changed many things - all pistons, a full set of gaskets, the long block bolts, all valve lifters, tensioner, timing chain, connecting rod bearings. I topped that with XADO 1 Stage Maximum. Now I have to drive 3000km under 3000rpm after the engine repair and change the oil after that. The new oil is 10w40. After the change, I think to use Ravenol 10w30, the silver one.
The total cost till now for parts and repair - 1500 euro.
Car: Elantra Coupe 2013, 87000 km
Very nice information. I have a Hyundai Accent with 121k miles, the engine is strong and quiet, one owner and always regularly serviced.
Model year?
Hyundai Accent has a gamma engine, they don't have this kind of issues, the problem is mainly on Theta and Nu engines.
@@AlexisLobos so what would cause this noise on an accent? My car is doing this and we can’t figure out what it is!! It gets louder and faster with acceleration but rarely hearing when traveling 60+, maybe every once in a while if accelerating up a hill and don’t have the music on I’ll hear it “clicking” real loud for a second and then Goes away, but is very noticeable when going under 20 mph and upon startup and when just idling.
Let us know if it worked. I have the same issue with 2013 Accent with 100k miles.
@@paytensplace5046hi there i know this comment is over two years but i want to ask you if you found out the problem on that Hyundai accent a friend of mine has a 2016 and i noticed that does exactly the same thing your mentioned . I'll appreciate it if anyone one can tell me
Mine did this recently got a tune up and oil change then I noticed it was idling hard. Put seafoam in it works as good as new. It also helps to keep up on all the fluids on these motors just an fyi read online they have tinier pistons I guess prior to the 10' model.
I have a 2010 kia forte 2.0 and I had the same noise for years. Last year(2018) I put half bottle Marvin mystery oil and half can seafoam, used for one month, changed oil and about sixty percent of tick noise went away. Try this method. It may also work for you.
We’re you using synthetic oil?
Yeah. Marvel Mystery Oil or just oil change more often until it goes away. MMO has detergents to get the carbon out. Oil has detergents too. So if you were to change the oil more often it would do the same.
Nice video. I just bought a 2010 Hyundai Elantra Touring and it has a ticking noise. So did you ever discover what it was? I changed oil and even put oil treatment in BUT it still ticks/pings mainly during acceleration. Help me out please.
Hey Valerie. If you still have your Elantra, you might want to check the more recent videos from World Mechanics and others to see if your engine is on the list of 1.8 liter engines with well known ticking problems that can result in complete engine failure. There is some key info in the comments too, just search for 2010 Elantra to see what people have learned so far.
Hyundai did replace the core of my Elantra engine without cost as soon as it developed the ‘piston valve slap’ ticking sound at around 110,000 kms. I thought i was fortunate to have a ‘new’ engine but my car developed the same problem after another 60,000 kms.
Today my car is stuck at the dealership garage with an estimated repair cost which is nearly double what the car is worth. It won’t run so my only option may be to have it towed away to salvage. I feel fortunate for getting a lot of use out of a used Elantra that I didn’t pay much for, but i wish i could have traded it in to help my daughter buy a vehicle. 🤔
My recommendation would be to make a move sooner rather than later to a car with a better rep. while your car still has some value. Good luck!🤞
Never,never,never use an oil treatment in your oil. Use amsoil 5-20.
It's the short block. NU 1.8L engines made in Alabama from 2011 - 2016 had a defect, Hyundai is switching out short blocks for no cost. I'm in Ontario Canada and the dealership just ordered a new short block and will arrive next week.
Alabama plant is paying.
Ontario resident here as well with a 2015 Elantra. Just noticed the noise today. How long will your car be in the shop?
@@viktorsosic7487 Not too sure, I,'m sure I'll get a loaner.
Make sure you have paperwork for oil changes.
I thought hyundais in Canada are from Korea
Any updates
I have the same noise with my Elentra 2015 2.0 eng with 185k KM.
the weather is very hot in Saudi Arabia 44 Celsius
I change the oil every 5k
synthetic oil 5W30 and
when cold start up i hear it out .
After warming up no any noise.
Is it the oil pump or ? Valves ?
How is your car today? I have the same 2015 Elantra and it needs a new motor and the dealer won’t replace it
Are you sure it's not your coil packs? My car did the same with no check engine and I replaced the spark plugs and coil packs and the tick is gone.
Or just a major tune-up right?
I replaced my spark plugs and coils, and it's still making the noise.
Knock sensor or catalytic converter
@@jessemcnabb8356 i think the knock sensor
I have an 06 Sonata with 2.4L engine with the same problem. I ended up by taking the engine apart. Replaced all the rod bearings with oversized ones. Grinding the crank at a local machine shop here in Florida. Now it runs perfect with no ticking or any sort of noise
Was it fixed?
How much it cost to do that?
@@mimia3510 4-6k
Question... I had my 2013 elantra idle rough then stall on me. Its cold outside here now but I had been driving the car for atleast 30mins before this happened. I let it for a few mins then started it and it was fine. I drove 5 miles at the most and as i started up a hill this ticking started. Idk where to even start on locating exactly what the problem is. It sounds like its coming from the belt side of the motor. When it stalled it felt like the serpentine belt had broken or slipped off but it hadn't. Any advice on what I should do is greatly appreciated.
What ended up being your problem? I have the same issue with my accent right now
Dealer told me last week I need a new engine (and not covered by warranty)but couldn't specify why. This ticking has been going from 70k to now/83k miles on my '13 Elantra, getting a little louder but otherwise no problems, loss of power, etc. I'm perplexed and pissed at Hyundai for totally turning their back on me. I'm in St Louis, looking for suggestions on how to resolve.
I was just told the same thing by the dealer after a service on my 2014 1.8 i30. its done 255,000km but the oil and filter changed every 7,500 religiously and has lived its life on Castrol edge. They said its making a rattling noise, when I started it, it was fine. Its always had a tick in the top end from new, when you start it from cold. When it does it, if you stop the engine wait a few seconds and restart, the tick is gone.
I have a Hyundai Tucson 2006 limited with the same problem , they say its the Valve Lifter problem 🙆🏾♂️ Truth Or False?
Hyundai Elantra 2018, I have the same noise issue. I hear it when I drive and it goes and comes automatically. Please suggest some solution.
i have the same issue same exact car
Same I just took it to my dealership, hopefully they will fix it
My 2013 Elantra GT hatchback just started this at 261,000 miles. I use Full Synthetic oil only. I'm going to bring it to the garage tomorrow after work.
Hi, does the 5th gen Elantra requires cleaning of the intake valve (decarbo)?
Yeah. Sounds like caked up valves to me. Not sure if this is GDI or not. Needs a walnut blasting or something.
A great video. Very informative. Well explained. Well done. I have definitely learn't from this video as I have an IX35 with a DOHC 16V engine. Thank you very much.
Thanks for the video.do you have a video for changing the inhibitor switch on Hyundai Elantra 2012
pnavan I don’t know if you got this repair done already or not but the inhibitor switch is a very common recall on some Hyundai’s. I work in a Hyundai Service drive and I would bring your car in to see if there are any active recalls. Some vehicles are getting a free oil change as well so I would recommend a dealership visit at some point
Does the 2.0 have the same problem?
Did you fix the problem or just made it less noticeable?
Yes
Absolutely
I have a same noise in my car. It’s an elantra 2011. it can be fix by this way but after i changed oil it starts again in 2000km. Want to fix it any suggestions..
Thanks
Would this work for a 2008 Honda Fit knocking sound?
It's either piston slap or lifter clearance.
These engines do not have Hydraulic last adjusters there straight lifter bucket on top of the valve stem.
Very archaic if you ask me.
Easy way to differentiate between valve lash and piston slap is wether the noise increases or decreases or stays the same between a hot anyone and a cold engine.
These engines are famous for piston slap that is the result of just starting the car and driving when stone cold.
To avoid this for aslong as possible be sure to warm the engine up every time before driving. So let idle for say 5 to 10 minutes for the first start of the day and if let sit for longer then about 1 hour. But if only left for say 5 or 10 minutes then start the engine before putting your belt on and getting ready to drive.
Even start your car while loading the shopping into it.
Piston slap requires a partial rebuild.
Hey does this happen on the 2012 Hyundai Accent as well?
Hello, I also have a 2014 Elantra Limited 1.8 engine. When I start it in the morning, it makes a sound like tk tk tk.
Hi I have a Hyundai Elantra 2016 I have a similar sound like that on my car. Old engine sound with a ticking nose. I had a oil change but the the sound is still there?? What do I do?? There’s no warning signs on my dashboard. I bring in my car to my local mechanic and was told their was no problem with my car (diagnostic was ran) nothing found.
I have the same problem. I think it may be the knock sensor =(
I just left it alone. Each time I get a check up. Nothing comes up... they don’t find anything
I'm having a similar problem and my cars the same year. It just started happening like a week ago.
I have the same problem in my 2015, the dealer wants me to pay for half of the new motor needed
I have the same car and there was a recall on 2013. The dealership changed the engine block with no cost. I have noticed that these cars suck gas a lot. Does yours do that? What is the solution?
Mine has original engine makes the sound slight. But gets great gas mileage. 35 to 45 mpg yes I have gotten as high as 50 mpg with this car yes I'm not lying. And original spark plugs and 127k miles
thanks for the knowledge man!
Hi, i love your video. I have a 2009 Elantra, it works well, but does not change gears , it stays in gear 1 and refuses to change. How can i fix it. Thanks for your response.
If it works well it would change gears
i bought a 2006 hyundai sonata with 46000 miles and am trying to find out the severe sound coming from the engine (thrashing noise.) might only be the pulleys but i am concerned might be more. i want to see all of the videos concerning the piston slap problem and rebuild steps so i can fix the issue . please help me with all info you have
It's normal in cold temperature on cold start for that noise. The timing chain tensioner is oil pressure driven, so once vehicle warms up and has proper oil pressure (use a hyundai filter only on these) then vehicle should quiet down. I'm a Hyundai Technician. These engines only develop knock if oil isn't changed on time and often enough. 3,750 is the interval for city/highway driving.
3750 of what;miles or kms?
@@ismarmeskovic miles
@@ZynovFTW Hi. I have a 2013 with 50k miles. About 45k it started ticking. I use synthetic oil. Do I need to change it that soon with synthetic? Plus, I also use mobile one synthetic filter. What do you suggest on that? Thanks
Where can I find the filter?
@ZynovFTW my 2015 still runs does the same sound I've changed alot oils now im with shell but it didn't fix the problem or anything still sound the same
Wouldn’t switching to 5w-30 from 5w-20 ruin the engine over time??
U herald what he said the manual said to do that in colder climates
I've read that the 2.0 engines are made to run on 5w30 but 5w20 is recommended to get better fuel economy.
@@iflarnted yeah I just found my owners manual (it was mia) and it does list 5w-30 and even 10w-30 as suitable depending on temperature. I’m in Az so I’ll try 5w-30 as summer approaches.
You can run 5/30 it’s fine it’s for warmer climates
My grandma has had several Hyundais from brand new and her sonata and elantra both had a tick since brand new, not a knock or a loud tick, just a decent little tick.
Use 93 gas and it will stop
@@nathanieldinnwiddie6901 makes no difference. Its either the fuel injection system or the hydraulic lifters imo. Not a problem and shes put hundreds of thousands of miles on them this way.
Try to use thicker oil. Because I’m in hot climat country. I use 10w40 semi syn all the way. I bought the car used 90km and now I’m at 125km no ticking. Mine was 1.6 mpi gamma engine
With 95 pump gas
@@desmondgreatdevil different engine my grandma's engine is the 1.8l Nu, not the 1.6l Gamma. It's never ever been a problem you don't even hear then engine unless it's running and you open the hood
I was watching this video, as I was also having the same some humming noise related issues when accelerating while driving, but not getting humming when accelerating at stand still.
Please suggest what could be the problem.
I am using Hyundai i20 2011 model
Are you still having this problem? I'm having the same issue
Im having the same issue. Changed the oil. New spark plugs and coil pack. It still sounds the same.
why no videos on older g4fa engines?
Could the pcv make that sound to ? Because I just got my oil changed n a day later my check engine came on so I went to Auto zone n had a diagnostic check and the pcv came up as the problem
hey guys, can you make a video replacing the wheel bearing in this car? thanks.
My 2013 elantra sounds the same as car in vid. Gonna try Lucas oil stabilizer...stuff is pretty good. Hopefully will keep engine going, as it has already been replaced (by Hyundai for original owner).
How's it now ? Im suffering for the same knocking
I have a 2013 hyundai elantra and it has the exact same noise could it be?
recall and recall this is piston slap your engine are toast
Same in my gets 1.4 ...it ticks on startup for about 5 mins then runs ok , I replaced all drive belts and it improved for couple months but its back again
Im having the same issue... I've taken it to a dealership and they fixed it under warranty but now it's back
did you find solution to ticking probelm issue
Class action lawsuit from 2010 to 2013 Elantra. Engine was replaced and I had to pay a percentage of the install. Dealership did right with me. There are certain restrictions on eligibility.
Did you call them? How did you get connected with them?
@@joshuasinnema9107 The rep at the dealership acknowledged this was happening and asked me to call corporate to submit a ticket and get a case number. There were some eligibility requirements I had to pass. I can’t remember the exact qualifications, but it had to do with cold weather climate and driving conditions. No issues being in Florida.
It’s as if the government and Hyundai settled on this recall and that is why it wasn’t broadcasted and every engine replaced.
Hi Guys!
I have the same problem. I did the same tests and I can not find a solution, please help! The scanner shows no errors..Do you know something else?
C sep your local Hyundai dealership would know. Ticking noises in these models are quite common and could result in the replacement of your engine
Had the same issue at 60 k ! Luckily was within warranty!
Is any one can govr methr info what is the Exactly the oil please
Was it completely solved? did I do something else later?
What about loud metal rubbing upon starting the car or shuddering when starting like it does not want to start?
Piston slap is what you engine has when it makes that sound. Mine went into Hyundai for an inspection and sure enough my car had piston slap. Hyundai has ordered a brand new motor for my car and will be installed in two weeks from now under the recall on the motor and it's all free. $6500 Canadian for the motor, and near 3000 for labor. my car has 77.000 km Talk to your dealer folks.
I talked to my dealer and they wouldn’t fix it. I have a 2015 83,000 miles Elantra. Because I am the second owner they won’t fix it. They wanted me to pay for half. Why should I pay for their error?
I am angry and don’t know what to do
I have Elantra 2013 gls it start a few weeks ago when car it’s on D example waiting for the red light car shakes rpm moves up down or down up its self and I feel car Want to start move it’s self now this think happen even it’s on P or N
No engine light 💡 shows what should I do thanks
Same problem here
What's the update on this car. I'm having the same issues
Mine is the same (2011 elentra) once I put Mobil 1 high mileage full synthetic oil in the knocking reduced by alot, I had a synthetic blend in before and it was loud so the oil definitely helps.
5w 40 ?
5/30
my car makes this noise on start up.. as i drive is goes away.. idk seems it just has to warm up
Is it an elantra?..i have a 2011 and it knocks on start up too, they say its a defect on these models and hyundai doesnt make it too public i i hear you can take it to the dealer and they will replace the engine free..its a recall actually..theres a video on that..
@@renehettinga6610 is there a mileage limit on this recall? I have 2014 Elantra doing same thing
Hi there i have an ancien hyundai trajet 2002. I lately had driven it but there was à sud d'en knocking sound . What to do ? What to check? Is it a simple issue or should i have to change thé engine?
I have 2015 hyundai accent that makes a noise once you apply gas. what could be the cause? so far no mech can tell me how to fix it.
your engine could be "pinging" (pre-ignition), did you have it diagnosed or repaired?
Sounds like hydraulic lifters clacking , the new thinner oil probably allowed them to function a bit better .
How much you think its gonna cost if youre going to change the hudraulic lifters?
Those have what's known as bucket lifters that sit over the valve and spring and the cams sit over the top and operate directly on the top of the lifter , aftermarket set from ebay and do the work yourself , around $150 unless you also change belts and/or gaskets if needed .
Gordon L they actually used a thicker oil, it calls for 5w20 but they put 5w30 in. Which is thicker not thinner buddy. 🙂
30 is thicker.
Is this really an issue. I have 2016 Elantra. Notice the tik tik noise when I put it in drive. Don't hear it otherwise. I started noticing this only recently when it cold.
I have a 2016 Elantra as well. It recently started making this noise and I'm unsure why. Did you ever figure out what's wrong with yours?
You both should take it to the dealer if you are the first owner as they can put in a new motor if it needs it. They wouldn’t help me with mine because I am second owner.
It stopped already. It isn't an issue anymore. I have checked with my mechanic and says if it comes and goes shouldn't be bad.
Nicolle Mendoza I have the same issue. I’m the second owner 🤦♂️ I’m taking my 2016 Elantra GT into a shop to get it diagnosed
engine ticking is NOT normal for any car. should have done an OOPS and wrapped it around a phone pole and got a new car.. you have an engine doing something called dieseling. its also known as piston slap. this is from the rings wearing prematurely and can no longer center the piston as it rides the engine wall and scores the block. hyundai is known for this around 75,000 miles. oil change is a mere mask until the oil wear out again.
So keep changing it early af? Lol
What is the sound when turning off the engine?
Some people don't know the 1.6L gdi doesn't have hydraulic lifters. The valves need to be adjusted with shims inside buckets every 80000km or 60k miles.
My car only ticks when the a/c is turned on......and the ticking sound increases with rpms.....turn off a/c or heater.....sound goes away....
compressor?
i like your video... thankyou.
There's nothing wrong with that car. I have heard plenty of new cars that sound just the same.
I agree i bought a hyundai i20 and it said this noise. And I got so scared. But after search on internet i found out that this was all normal. Im an kia mechanic myself and we also have picanto that sound like this from factory. And if you want to run a warrenty case. By sending the video of the noise. It almost everytime gets declined
they are two sounds together, one of them is the fault.
My Rio started making more noises, so I began paying attention to other Kia and Hyundai. Surprisingly they all have this noisy engines. Even brand new ones.
@tiago
Can confirm. I have a 2020 forte gt line with 2.0. I only have 4500 miles on it. I freaked out but started doing research. I'm finding it's normal. I'm very sensitive to noises. I guess I'll roll with it. 100k warranty makes me feel a little better.
@@douchebaggins7 Yeah man I am the same way, Its almost a downfall because I worry for nothing. When I was hearing this with my sonata I literally went to a dealer and had them start and run the same car so I could put myself at ease. It looked and sounded exactly the same. I now have 60k miles and same sounds but never had a problem
Do i actually need to worry about this? My new to me 2013 has 40k and it ticks slightly at startup but it’s also 0degrees here in Iowa. It runs and drives fine and noise goes away once engine is warm.. I feel like I’ve had other cars that make noise too..
Running 0w-20 full synthetic
Any updates?
0W20 is too thin , 5W30 would work much better .
Very interesting thanks!
These engines are just inherently noisy. I'm pretty sure its normal with their GDI engines. Should still go strong for years. My wives Elantra sounds the same.
It has a ticking noise? Mine has a ticking noise
That's not a GDI engine... no hpfp
@@codyballing8848 the 1.8l is a GDI. He even shows disconnecting the injectors in this video.
@@thesupernad en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hyundai_Nu_engine
@@MoreThanRocks Thanks for the info. I stand corrected.
i have exact same issue and same ticking noise, but my engine oil is also getting lower after 1200 KM
Just bought a 2014 Hyundai Elantra 25 days ago and at 45k miles it already is making this noise
Hydraulic lifters my diesel 1.3 cdti fiat engine has been the same for last 2 +years oil n filter change quieten it for a while it then returned but motor runs fine only got 45k on so these good for 150k.
I have a 2018 Elantra and with a cold engine mine ticks and it goes away after the engine is warm. I only have 5000 miles on it.
David murling My 2011 does the same exact thing.. I was told it’s a cracked heat shield but I think it’s just normal on these cars.
My 2015 sounds also has a ticking noise on mornings
I too have the same problem. Please let me know that exact fix. I raise this to dealership but they refused bcz my car warranty has expired. I bought this new car in 2014.
@sploitx Just an FYI to those reading comments. The 2018 Elantra (original post) has some engines with GDI and some with MPI. So this doesn't apply to all.
@Vince C I have a 2017 elantra which I bought in July. When the weather was hot I never noticed a ticking noise. Then when the weather turned cold, i noticed it ticked really loud especially when I accelerated. The car only had 10,000 miles by then. When the motor warmed up it mostly quit ticking. I have 50,000 miles now and it still does it but I just quit worrying about it. The Dealer said it was the fuel injection. Maybe that's true... maybe not. Anyway the Dealer wouldn't do anything about it and just said it was normal. So I just let it go.
Isn't there a lawsuit on these models? Carbon build up on the pistons and something else , I recieved the paperwork through mail! And also mine is a 2013 Hyundai Elantra Coupe idk what all models were recalled or well in a lawsuit to replace the whole motor.
Good job
I have one problem in my elantra.
When I stop my car the engine shakes violently. As soon as I release the brakes or put the transmission on Neutral then it is normal.
Does any one knows anything about it?
One mechanic told me to change the chair on which engine is sitting.
Check your coil packs
Spark plugs need changed
I too have the same problem. Please let me know that exact fix. I raise this to dealership but they refused bcz my car warranty has expired. I bought this new car in 2014.
Fahad Rajpurkar what was the purpose for the expiration? Year or mileage?
jsphburk, this is due to years. And I didn’t extended.
The engine warranty for original owners is 10yr/100k miles isn't it? They should have honored their warranty.
Same issue with my because I am the second owner I am out of warranty. Now I have a 2015 Elantra with 83,000 miles that’s motor is going to trash because they won’t fix it
I have a hyundai elantra 2012, still is very quiet I just always change oil every 6 months.
i have elantra 2012 too. what oil (number and brand) do you use. thanks
Same one that he uses. Castrol Magnatec 5W-30. He is one of the best sources of Hyundai Elantra repairs in youtube. That’s why I follow him.
@@aizensouske8872 hey is your car manual?
Can Doğan yup it is a manual.
How many miles do you have and which filter do u use
Thank you it's useful for me 👍👍
i hate this guys videos, every car I search they got it covered, but have to watch it, no options.
I just did a 2014 Hyundai Elantra lifters, valve seats, head gasket. Every one of these cars have hydraulic lifter problems.
Was it very expensive to fix?
@@ddallen733 about 335$ with everything
@@jaydizzledyal1992 thanks
Did it fix it and is it going to stay fixed? I'm not to sure if mines the lifters or something else. When I first start it up it makes a loud sound kind of like it might be the lifters but then it goes away. I'm assuming if it's bad lifters you'd hear it all the time correct? Also, if I start my car then turn it off and start it again I don't hear it. And if I do it makes significantly less noise.
I have the same problem in my car. Any body there who can help me in darwin australia.
The engine noise affects the radio. How to solve this problem
It’s a Hyundai! She sounds like a million bucks😂. The dealership will call that new!!!! Let’s go!!!!!! Time to cruise!!!!
My 2013 Elantra makes the piston noise while the engine is cold. After it warms up it stops making noise. I have less than 30,000 miles
you didn't check the oil level before you started the car up. and another thing. Stay off the throttle when you start the engine. Never give it gas when you start it unless it won't fire on its own. especially when it has sat overnight. The car will start on idle. at idle there is the least amount of pressure on all of the bearings while it builds oil pressure and circulates oil. Don't spin the engine up before it's had a chance to circulate the oil. If the engine is cold just let it idle for at least 15 seconds before you touch the throttle. think about it. why slam pressure on the rod and crank bearings before they had a chance to get oiled. Most of the wear on an engine happens in the first 3 minutes of it starting from cold. once it's fully warmed up, go ahead a flog it. but when the oil is cold it doesn't lubricate as well and the metal parts haven't expanded to the correct size so you have too much clearance between parts until they expand. This is especially important at the top and bottom of the rod where the motion reverses. The wrist pin and the lower rod bearing shells. Not to mention the crankshaft bearing shells where the crank sits in the block.
Hey there Carbon Crank......
Here is what you said "when the oil is cold it has less viscosity and the metal parts haven't expanded to the correct size and the metal parts haven't expanded to the correct size so you have too much clearance between parts until they expand.".
Please note this part: "when the oil is cold it has less viscosity and the metal parts haven't expanded to the correct size so you have too much clearance between parts until they expand."
More specifically this part that REALLY got me., "and the metal parts haven't expanded to the correct size so you have too much clearance between parts until they expand."
Viscosity (noun) · viscosities (plural noun)
The state of being thick, sticky, and semifluid in consistency, due to internal friction:
"cooling the fluid raises its viscosity"
Modern oil is a multi-viscosity oil to PREVENT exactly what you're speaking about.
At cold temps oil's viscosity is constant. a 50 or a 10.... viscosity stays constant.
Below 32 degrees F, the oil changes to the lower viscosity oil, because the clearances are TIGHTER when cold, you dumb ass. Metal will expand ... ALLL the metal, not only the crank.
Also, the forces of the change in momentum are not applied to the crank and connecting rod "shells" (LOL). Those forces are LATERAL to the journals. Man, it's like my 14 year old wrote a post on RUclips after listening to grandpa talk shop from the 40's..
You don't sound intelligent with all of this shit. It makes you sound like a un-informed know-it-all.
This entire comment rubbed me so wrong that I had to leave this diatribe in hopes that since you posted this.
Damn man, this thing pissed me off.
@@gamersroost You arrogant prick. Earth made you think I didn't know what viscosity meant? Everybody uses multi-grade oils now. It's a given that Multi-grade oils make cold oil flow better when it's cold. And that's it. Period. It circulates quicker and builds oil pressure faster when it's cold than if it was thick, but if you think cold oil lubricates as well as warm oil then you're a dumbass.
"Below 32 degrees F, the oil changes to the lower viscosity oil, because the clearances are TIGHTER when cold, you dumb ass." No, the clearances are not tighter when the engine is cold. There goes your credibility because you've got that thing about clearances backward. (I addressed that below) The oil is lower viscosity so that it will FLOW faster and fill the spaces where oil has drained away overnight quickly, you dumbass.
Here you talk out of both sides of your mouth when you said "More specifically this part that REALLY got me., "and the metal parts haven't expanded to the correct size so you have too much clearance between parts until they expand." You say that part really got you you got but instead of addressing whether what I said about Metal Parts expanding was right or not you went into a diatribe about viscosity that didn't tell me anything I didn't already know. But then in the following paragraph, you said "Metal will expand ... ALLL the metal, not only the crank." isn't that exactly what I said?
My advice simply stated don't put any load on the engine until it's had time to build oil pressure and warm up a little. I don't know where you get the notion that clearances (tolerance) are tighter when the engine is cold. Metal contracts when it's cold and expands when it's hot. Which has a higher diameter? A cold piston or a hot piston? Which has a larger diameter, a cold connecting rod or a hot connecting rod? What has a larger diameter, a cold crankshaft or a hot crankshaft? Low viscosity oil flows better so it more quickly fills the larger spaces with oil than if it was thick but it still doesn't lubricate as well until it's warmed up and the parts are designed to be the right size at operating temperature. If there's less clearance when cold then explain these fun facts to me. Higher mileage engines that burn oil and smoke when they're cold but not when they're warmed up. Some Racecar engines that do the same, engines on old warbirds that belch clouds of oil smoke when they first start but they don't smoke when they're warmed up. Some old engines knock when they're cold but the knock completely goes away when they're warm. And overheated engines where Pistons expand so much They seize up in the cylinder. That stuff you wrote about forces of the change in momentum had nothing to do with anything I wrote and why did you put shells in quotation marks with a lol? You're trying to sound like the expert here and you don't know what a crankshaft bearing shell is? You don't write like somebody that's very intelligent..
The highest wear rate of metal parts in engines is when the oil is cold and the parts aren't at operating temperature. I was simply giving advice on how to start an engine in a manner that creates the least amount of wear. I stand by everything I wrote and I think the advice is good.
PS. I can see where you think I misused the word viscosity in my original post. I should have said it doesn't lubricate as well when cold but I think most people got the point and it didn't change my advice.
My 2011 has a rattle at start up. Lasts maybe 2 seconds when engine is cold. Warm engine restart it doesn't do it. Done it since new. Now @291k miles.🙃
I did notice when I bought the car more than 2 years ago. It happens when the car is cold. I got used to it. There is a lawsuit regarding this. I got the notice in the mail. If you can live with the noise you should be fine.
If the motor heats up, then there is no sound, what could be the problem
Crankshaft position sensor on front under exhaust manifold.
R u sure about that?
my car sounds like that. just overheating and cooling leak. I thought about getting a new one since mine is 16 years old.
Did you know there's a recall
it's inside the motor ! Piston slap or rod knocking or timing chain / tensioner
So what years of Hyundai's would you avoid which engine to avoid
Ralph Kowalski 2005 due to transmission
All of them, I have a 2015. I believe there was a recall on 2011-2014 🤷🏻♀️ I could be wrong on those years but I know mine didn’t have a recall
in korea
2011 ~ 2015 gdi engines start recall
and extend warranty period 5year to 10year
100000km to 160000km
gdi was big problem in korea
GDI failed in iraq too cuz the fuel quality is so bad
dohc 16V are the best one korea ever made
Is it automatic warranty extension or we have to do something?
I have a 2015 Elantra and my dealer won’t fix it says out of warranty car has 83,000miles and it is 5yrs old. They offered to pay for half but why should I pay for a manufacture error? 😡
My 2013 Elantra started making the ticking/tapping noise. They are replacing the whole small block free. Google :Hyundai Technical Service Bulletin 14-20-002
Aaron Silver , this was covered under warranty ? Here in Middle East they refused to do so.
Fahad Rajpurkar who is they? The dealer?
Aaron Silver they are dealers. They said your car warranty has expired. On the time of purchase the warranty was 3 years. Now i don’t know to whom I should escalate. Might i need to find someone in Korea headquarters.
What year is your car? And mileage? I’m having the same issue. Mine has 80k miles it’s. 2014
Fahad Rajpurkar never mind. I see the year.
when u hear this, it means something in the crank shift, 100% crankshaft bearing gone need to change the crankshaft and bearings to fix this problem.
Случйно попаднах на този клип, но не може човек да обърка произношението ни с това на друга нация :-)
it didn´t fix anything, it´s a rod knock, Hyundai made a recall, they´re changing engines.
gleudy gomez I went and they said no active recall :(
@@stephxoxo3577 it's only certain vins, mine isn't qualified...
Try to put some MOTORKOTE in engine. I am sure it will make significant change in noise level
I have a 2014 Santa fe with 125k miles. On accelerating the tick sound came on. Now it's on a cold start. Are you sure about this motorkote?
@@thenditharam I tried it as an experiment on my 2010 kia sedona and it reduced noise significantly and till date not seen any negative effect. If cause of engine knocking at your end is because of an internal part’s damage then it may not be of any help.