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Hyundai Nu family of engines (G4NA/G4NB) as well as Theta family (G4KD/G4KE) are widely known for piston and cilinder abrasion that leads to diesel-like knocking. There are at least two reasons for that: bad oil supply and quick degradation of the catalyst. Latter leads to pumping of small pieces of catalyst back into engine. We, in Russia have already found how to repair this shiity constructed engines. You can find lot of videos in the K-POWERtuning channel here on youtube but all of them are in Russian. Anyway, they are detailed enough to see same story as @Auto Repair Guys show - knocking, cilinder scratches, piston abrasion. And it happens in a very different mileage - sometimes at 60 thousands km even!
Dont start them and throw them in gear before the engine even idles down. And if you can't take two to three minutes to let warm up dont push it. I have 220000 on Sportage and 115 on Optima. I've owned lots of makes and models and at this stage I could blow an engine tomorrow and they'd still be the best cars I've ever owned zero leaks zero oil/coolant consumption everything's original except spark plugs on Sportage.
I have 229,000.. change my oil every 5,000.. full synthetic and genuine hyundai filter.. just replaced the motor mounts and crank position sensor.. still running smooth.. of course I change or clean the air filter regularly too. I try to drive smoothly as I depress the gas pedal when accelerating.. not slow just smooth.
Im at 76K~ and I am experiencing the "diesel knocking" ( there may also be rough idling or shaking) and after trying to a lot of different things (it doesn't show in the codes, surprise!) It seems this is the case with all of these Hyundais and Kias(child company of Hyundai FYI) Now based on the comments about warming up the engine- let me tell you that it wouldn't make a difference because I always warm up my engine before I take off. This is a manufacturing issue from Hyundai; now I am not a mechanic nut but the consensus from people who have experienced this or have an inside contact in Hyundai is that the piston size (skirt) - rod size was bad ( quite the understatement) as you can see from the video and/or personal experience. So, if you are under warranty they will just replaced your engine with a new one; otherwise they will try to charge you an out of pocket for a defective MAJOR mistake on their part (AH, capitalism...) I mean really what vehicle doesn't even make it to the 100K and is already crying for a new block. There was class action against Hyundai over this but it only included the 1.8 L engines ( I have a 2.0 L from my 2014 Elantra Sport, so they excluded me on a latter mail letter) www.carcomplaints.com/news/2021/hyundai-elantra-class-action-lawsuit-settled.shtml Nowadays if you had one the models from the bad years- the dealer will blame you for the damages and poor car maintenance and Hyundai now denies any claim of defective engines of oil sludge and piston slap.
It is shocking to see this piston wear out like it did and a relief to avoid this bullet. I am so happy I stuck to Honda. My experience is with 88 Prelude, 88 Concerto, 92 DelSol, 92 Accord and 96 Accords, all have had bullet proof engines. The engines are so bullet proof the mileage is not an issue when we puchased them all 2nd hand. My brother's 96 Accord (purchased 9 yrs old in 2005) is now on 332K kms and Dad's 92 Accord (purchased 16 years old in 2008) is now on 345K kms and drives like new. I have owned and drove Honda since 1997 and still have all the Honda we ever purchased in the family. We have never had to or felt the need to buy another brand or another car since owning the Honda's we now own. I don't think the pistons will ever wear out in our lifetime.
You're lucky. I used to desperately try to find a 90's honda/acura that's not souped up, swapped or rusted out, and since I live in a salt ridden province (PEI) it's almost rare to find a car older than 2000 that's not rotted out and is not a ram/gmc/chevy/ford truck.
I bought a new 2011 Hyundai Elantra and I only put on 20,000km and I could hear this nock on a cold start up myself I am so happy I sold this car right away for almost the price I paid for it. Junk motor the 1.8 NU motor is
My 2015 Sonata had this knocking issue it sounded like a diesel it turned out that it was a knock sensor and it was a factory defect so I send it to the dealer and they changed my engine and I didn’t have warranty my car had 154k miles but they changed it because it was factory recall it took them 6 weeks but they put in a new engine
@@SamSam-wu3fu nothing there was a factory defect Hyundai changed my engine and gave me a rental for 2 months until they got the new engine and yes I had over 140k on it this was a factory defect
@john m what do I have to do to get my engine replaced ? I’m still in warranty and had the recall done last year. I get a rattling sound when accelerating so I’m betting it’s the same problem as described in the video. Do I call a Hyundai dealership and explain my issue ?
@@ginoventura7226 go to the dealer they had a factory recall they replaced my engine after that knock sensor messed up my engine it took 2 months but they gave me a rental and they paid for it
John m tjhank you. I had the recall done too. No service engine soon light came in or anything. Just getting that rattling sound and noticed metal shavings in my oil. Going to call my local dealer today. I still have 3 years left on my loan. They better make it right.
the 2.0 liter is the Theta 2 engine that is the same as in the Mitsu EVO but Mitsu uses their pistons and rods and bearings, Smit soft bad metelugy by Hyundai for the last 12 years. HEAD IN SAND. Hyundai should have Mahle pistons made for it and call it a day. I had a 2013 Elantra GT 1.8 go out with 14,000 miles with Mobil 1 dumps at 3,500 miles. I now let my Hyundai Kona AWD 1.6T warm up even in summer at least 1 minute to 2 minutes. in Winters at least 4 minutes/car starter.
@ThePariss333 no you're wrong. Engine warms up at idle just fine. Let it idle about 2 min in winter, then take it easy another 5 min. Injection, carburetors, dont care, if they are running, they will warm up not moving. Been driving 43 years, EXPERIENCE trumps EVERYBODY'S frickin opinions .and I've never had a car with engine problems, and some of my engines have had over 340.000 miles. 2 minutes or a little more if you want . In summer. 1st start for the day, 30 seconds is good.
In winter I warm up engine for about 5 minutes when i clean windows and then drive. In summer, I warm up the engine for about 30s and drive. I never go over 3.000rpm until coolant is at 85°C and for at least 5 minutes.
@ThePariss333 always idle for at least 30 seconds before driving off first start of the day, regardless of engine and temperature. It's all to do with the thermal expansion of the metal, and if you put load on an engine that hasn't warmed up a little for the cylinders to expand, the pistons can scuff and you'll get severe wear like in this video
@ThePariss333 To say you seemed against the warm up period 1 minute is more than enough. Your cold start routine is similar to mine though but I only idle for 30 seconds before moving off. Not sure what your comment about driving 62 years is for though, I know people that have been on the road for that long and they have started driving on the wrong side of the road etc. haha
Dude, this is exactly what happened to me. I think it probably had something to do with me getting into the whip and just driving in cold weather. Makes sense to warm it up when you know what can go wrong. Sounds like an expensive fix unless it's under warranty.
Similiar problem i small Fiat engines, like 1.1 and 1.2 liter. I happen to have a car with the 1.1 version and it has a strong, really strong piston slap. BUT! It happens only when it is cold. After the engine warms up, it goes away 100%. The car has 100.000km on it, so as the engine. Drove it since it had 90.000km on my own and it works ok, nothing got worse or better. People and mechanics say, that it's a factory problem, something was wrong with the pistons from the get go.
Update I developed a little tuc, I was ready for a oil change, at 104,000 miles I switched to synthetic oil and put lucas oil stabilizer after about 800 miles so far the engine tuc is gone. I talked to hyundai and thank God I found out, before winter to not Rev motor and let the car idle and warm up on cold days. I would try that before replacing motor
The side skirts on those pistons looks quite short not to mention scuffed and badly scratched. With such short piston skirts the pistons will rock sideways within the cylinder bore during the power stroke. Probably where that piston slap noise is coming from. That side to side rocking piston slap also compromises the oil control ring and piston head sealing rings leading to excessive oil burning and consumption. The KIA/Hyundai engines affected by this obvious manufacturing cost-cutting and engineering design flaw are the Theta 1 and Theta 2 engines. These are the same engines with bad fittings around the high pressure fuel pump for the GDI system causing gasoline to leak out and spontaneously catch fire burning the vehicle entirely. Saving a few cents and dollars here and there during the manufacturing and assembly of KIA/Hyundai engines costed them a lot more in eroded customer trust within their car brand and lawsuits from federal regulators and national courts.
I have a 2012 elantra with original engine and transmission with 231k on it. Runs and shifts great still. Seeing all these other problems confuse me about the 1.8.
I got one I bought with the knock and its number 1 piston scored the block so bad it’s junk. Get a Toyota these Hyundais are piles of garbage man you just got lucky. Its not even due to bad maintenance it’s from bad engineering
I had bad pcv valve, the oil turn into jelly black sludge after 5000km. I noticed same brown burnt oil attached to the walls inside the engine. I read about an Italian guy with a Niro had scratced cylinder because broken ceramic inside the catalytic converter. For some reason or some pollution reducer the ceramic particles was sucked inside the combustion chamber. After some monts ad research about gdi engine I found some russian youtube videos were they change pistons, bearings, head and in all cars they cut the catalytic converters because had broken ceramic inside!!
My 2014 Hyundai Santa fe sport had total engine failure 20 minutes after leaving the Hyundai dealership at 57,000 miles. The dealership did a full inspection prior to the explosion and they told me nothing was wrong. After the engine failure the dealership kept me in the dark of what actually happened to the engine. They put a new engine in it but I traded it in immediately after getting it back!
Too long inbetween oil changes or oil filter 🤔, check hyundai part #s for the pistons, if they changed the part # then you know they changed the part out
Canadian here with a 2013 Elantra GLS w/ 1.8L 6-Spd Manual. Car never failed to start even at -20C (-4F) or colder. Regularly maintained by a Hyundai dealer or other professional shop. Car is currently at 216,000km (135,000miles) and runs like a champion. The car is designed for a range of temperatures and cold weather starts are normal. Your car sounds like a lemon.
How do you bore an aluminum block? If it has an iron sleeve, I understand, but if it's all aluminum, it must have some kind of coating, such as nickasil? Do you have an iron sleeve pressed in or can the coating on the cylinder bore be restored somehow? I am interested in the solution to this problem.
My 2008 elentra makes a weird noise accelerating up to 35-40 can’t tell if it’s a transmission problem it only does it when it up shifts or if I’m going slow up a hill and accelerate but sometimes it does it when the car doesn’t even shift
Hello, I have a question. I have an Elantra Limited 1.8 engine in 2014. When I start it in the morning, it makes a sound like tk tk tk when it warms up, the engine does not have it, what would you diagnose
Get some oil destabilized and switch to synthetic oil. Mine has a little tiny tic. But I'm gonna get that snd hopefully goes away. Warming up car 2013 hyundai elantra
Just finished watching a video from Mario Diagnostics. Very similar problem with piston slap and worn bearings on a Hyundai. Good video thanks for sharing. 👍
the offset crank/short pistons and bad metallurgy are a problem. THE BIGGEST problem is Hyunda does change the design into a more robust design. THAT is the TRUE problem.
Problem with these engines that there is lack of lubrication and there is no oil jets for piston cooling ( It can be added during overhaul, there are oil passages made from factory, but for some reason it was not equip with jets). My suggestion would be to use 5w-40. oil.
I’m a second owner and my 2015 Elantra has 83,000 miles it started making that noise so I took it to the dealer. They told me it was a manufacture error but since im second owner they wanted me to pay for half of the new motor. I don’t think I should pay for their erro I tried to fight it but they wouldn’t budge. Now I have a car whose motor is going to blow up I thought about trying to get a lawyer. I’ve never had to fight with a business before. Does anyone have any advice?
You need to look up if there is a warranty for just the engine. Just got a 2015 kia soul and due to it having a known engine failure kia has extended there engine warranty. Mine hasn't fail but the car has been there three times for a engine noise.
I got the engine light with the error code that is related to this knock engine issue but they updated the ECM which made the code go away. I am also a second owner with only have 45,000 miles on my 2017 Hyundai. I change my oil every 5,000 miles with full synthetic oil. Do you remember the price they told you for a new motor?
@@WidePhotographs $5000 ….they wouldn’t pay for mine. I just made a TikTok talking about it. The forms and documentation states that it’s covered. You should be fine…. You can find all the court documents on “hmapistonsettlement.com”
I have a friend who had a grand prix with the 3.1 that had barely perceptible slap when first started. He ran down to the dealer and demanded they fix it. So they sleeved it and turned his 3.1 into a 2.8. Didn't reprogram it, it was a dog after that, didn't shift right. He dumped it. I just laughed.
longer rods means it has a higher compression ratio higher compression needs a higher octane not the lower one higher octanes slow burning less early detonation less early detonation less piston stress
check also you ignition timing if you were able to adjust it or if there no way to adjust then stick to higher octane check also the knock sensor must be working properly
Also to add new Hyundais can be more reliable than the early 2000 ones even tho early to mid 2000s are some of the most bulletproof Hyundais ever (I had a 05 Elantra now a 21 Hyundai Tucson and 07 Toyota prius) but if they are gdi and most are you need to change the oil on time as the engine takes more a beating with gdi but they are much better than earlier gdis especially made in america models (that plant had many issues that K vin number Korean made ones didn't have) like they have the new konas that are mpi which are they same kind of engine of early 2000 Hyundais and don't have as much pressure going on which is why the kona is a great model I think the palisade doesn't have gdi either but can be wrong
I have been an engine machinist for almost 35 years. The main cause of problems with hyundai engines is the dog urine 5w20 oil that the factory recommends. Using 5w30 or 10w30 synthetic oil will substantially reduce and sometimes even eliminate knocking in these engines, and greatly increases engine life.
@@zozohoney79 that's exactly what I'm going to do tomorrow! oil change with 5w-30 or 10w-30? Still haven't decided but I already but the Lucas high mileage oil stabilizer for my 06 Tucson with what I believe is piston slap?? It's only on cold starts then goes away when engine starts to warm up.
@@pono321 could be piston slap....I had piston slap on my last 2 subarus that went away once warmed up. i ended up getting high mileagae on both engines. this time however it's my wife's 2013 elantra 1.8. noise improves on warm up, but doesnt go away. i was always suspicious of these thinner oils they use now trying to improve fuel efficiency. i had 5w-30 with lucas in my subarus, but that never made noise go away on cold start.
Any way to avoid this? I replaced my engine (same engine dif car) at 55k miles OUT OF POCKET. Bought a used engine and placed it in. But its bound to happen again. All these kia and Hyundai engines are craps. Will synthetic oil help??? Buying better connecting rods?
Nothing will help. Once these things start to go bad it’s terminal. Best thing you can do is unload it while it’s running and be sure to state as is on the add. That absolves you of any blame
Guys. I have problem..please help..hyundai i30 2007 1.6 16V petrol 115 HP.. when I speed up, in every gear around 1500-1800 rpm a short sound of metal scraping from the front right side engine area is heard. below and above those rpm has no problem, weird sound is not registred. also when I accelerate very slowly there is no sound at the mentioned rpms. but it is almost always present if I accelerate at that range of rpm. Also in neutral at same rpms that metalic scraping is not heard. guys what could be a problem? Many thanks!
Do not by a Hyundai between the years 2011-2014 especially a Sonata. Your engine will have the same fate i can almost guarantee it. 59,000 miles and now my engine is knocking and I babied the car and always maintained it properly. The thing that really bothers me is that Hyundai sold me a used Sonata with 22,000 miles on it knowing this car had an engine defect that can make your engine seize possibly killing you or someone else if this happens on the expressway or the wrong moment. Hyundai has a horrible code of ethics and care nothing about your safety. You go do the dealerships and they tell you oh that noise is normal and treat you like you're a fool. This car and dealing with hyundai dealers has taken years off my life.
@@SamSam-wu3fu Hey, from the research that i've done the 2011-2019 Sonatas have engine problems so I would stay away. My brother has a 2015 and hasn't had any issues but he only has around 30,000 miles on it. Hyundai did replace the engine but ultimately I wish I had bought a Toyota. Two friends of mine also had their Hyundai engines replaced around the 60,000 mile mark. I think the 2020 engines are much better and don't have the same engines issues as they are redesigned. Honestly if I were you I would find a good used Toyota. The other issue with Hyundai is the resale value is terrible so if you get in an accident and are still making payments it could cost you out of pocket. Take care my friend.
Actually I have one 2015 and it's sounds like it's starting to have knocking sometimes and I really regret to buy it .now I put it for sell I don't .and I wish if bought a Toyota is much better. Thanks a lot for you advices .be safe
@@SamSam-wu3fu Hey Sam sorry to hear you're having problems with your Hyundai. If I were you I would see if Hyundai will put a new engine in your car because you may not get a lot of money for the car. If they will fix it and you get 4 or 5 years out of the car that may be a better option. Don't let them tell you nothing is wrong with the car. You can't be nice to the idiots at the dealership because they all have been coached to lie to you. Take videos when the engine is knocking and send it to corporate. Keep bothering them everyday until they fix it. I got kicked out of the dealership for cursing out the manager and raising hell. Also try going to different dealerships to see if someone else can help you. Good luck my friend.
Oil changes are not enough engines knead maintenance Your ideas of engineering the engine is not a good idea There building 100 million engines you think there gonna do a mistake If this car isn’t used the way it’s supposed to be used it will break its engineered to work perfectly unless you decide to use the car as it’s not supposed to be used I have this car this engin like any other engine kneads engine flushing and it kneads specific oil and oil filter very simple I bought the car 200000 miles the guy sold it cause he got scared of the sounds it’s making I bought it for cheap and just a simple engine flush and warm the car up before driving
That was barely understandable at best but regular maintenance is enough. Engine flushes are definitely not recommended by ANY manufacturer. However much engines they are building is irrelevant since it is a well known and well documented issue Hyundai engines lock up. Doesn't matter how well you take care of it it's a large number of defective engines. Even now Hyundai ships their new cars mind you BRAND NEW with a engine inside a crate to replace the one that is in the car originally before the car is sold due to the fact that they know the engine that is in the car will lock up and needs to be replaced.
@ThePariss333 5W20 is recommended for maximum fuel economy, not maximum engine life. Have a look in the owners manual, there is a selection of approved oil viscosity allowed, right up to 15W40 and 20W50 if the car is used in hot climates. As long as it has the approved oil rating of SM or is it SL?
@ThePariss333 We had a 2007 Accent with the 1.6 Lt Alpha engine, it was getting very rattly when it was traded at 130,000 KM roughly 75,000 M. I was also seeing fine metal sparkles in the oil, I changed the oil every 5,000 KM with 10W 40 full synthetic.
it took till 183k miles, and my engine started doing it finally. i was wondering when it would. happened a few days ago. oh well, at least I didnt buy it new
You should see how the pistons rock in the bore when cold on these engines with "the slap". Literally .020" piston-to-wall clearance or more when cold at top dead center.
Dumb comment, that cylinder head is clean. I have the same car since new. Maintained with synthetic oil and good filters and it knocks also. Research the issue, it is well known.
@@os5800 They wrote, and I quote: "...it is possible that we contributed for the knock. On a cold winter day we did not warm up the car before driving it and it started ticking. A few hundred miles later it turned into a louder knock." Moreover, this engine is on warranty for 5 years against such defects and would be replaced at no cost by Hyundai. But he says that this car is a salvage (if I heard right) not eligible for warranty coverage. I also have that same engine (2016) and if it ever develops a knock, I'll be sure to take it to the dealer and tell them, so that they can replace the engine under warranty. But I use full synthetic oil and OEM filter, and change it every 8000 KM. And so far so good. Fingers crossed.
@Barry Boppins I know that some engines had problems early on, and many were replaced by Hyundai in the early years of this particular generation model. Anyway, I don't really care about that anymore because I've recently replaced my 2016 Elantra GL with a Stinger GT Limited. ;-)
Unless they already cleaned up the head , it shows remarkably clean cam & rocker area .The engineers made 2 major mistakes ,# 1 no piston oiling jets (like their own 6 cylinder motors) ,# 2 since these engines typically rev 2,000 rpm or less at highway speed, the actual piston speed should be considerably lower than previous 3 speed models that ran closer to 4,000 rpm ., (this alone should have saved them).#3 with the short skirt & aluminum block, & very thin cylinder plating All it takes is one ring gap to snag ,& / or a slight over heat, & hard particles will tear off the cylinder walls effectively like adding glass blasting material to a clean bolt hole..Research it. , try it. , see what happens ..That's why they are telling everyone it's metal shavings in the block, but it wasn't from the factory procedures.
Yea, thanks for posting this. This is the same issue that Porsche 996 has.....but glad it's my daughter's Elantra vs. my Porsche. A lot cheaper to fix this car. Thinking of getting a used engine.....but I feel that is just rolling the dice. My video: ruclips.net/video/YC9XQRmFWtI/видео.html
My 2013 Elantra is going in next week, they are replacing short block. Apparently the Nu 1.8L engines made in the Alabama Plant made between 2011 and 2016 are affected.
My dealer wouldn’t change my engine they wanted me to pay for half even though they stated that it was a manufacture error. I tried to finger it but they won’t budge. So now I have a car whose engine is going to blow up
Horrible engineering and quality control. In other blunders, they installed engine bearings backwards in another run of engines. People actually compare this junk to Honda and Toyota, too. They compare features and price on new cars, but don't consider long term reliability.
True I wouldnt buy the new hyundais maybe the older ones from 2002 to 2005 recomend the Hyundai accent. Reason why is because it uses a rebranded 4g63 engine from a Mistubishi lancer.
@@bpimpin6037 hyundai corrected their issue after 2012 its wasn't Hyundai fault do your research. The factory that distributes these engine made a mistake when assembling them which left peices of metal down in the oil pan and when the engine sucked up the oil the metal peices were scratching all around the engine to the point where engines failed around 40,000kms. This is not hyundais fault their distributor should be sued for negligence.
@@MJT-DA Funny how even brand new 2019 models ship with a crate motor and they want the dealer to swap that into the car before it is sold. It's almost like the engines produced even now are defective. Also 2015-2017 cars are still locking up so no they did not fix it after 2012 it is still very much an on going issue. You need to do your research.
@@MJT-DA, hyundai has not corrected anything. My elantra is a 2016 model, maintained with full synthetic and good filters (oem or wix) at 5k and it is developing the same issue. Also whatever gets sucked up goes thru the filter and should go no further. 65k miles on mine. Bought new.
@@HowardJrFord And transmissions heh. All manufacturers has had their share of shoddy engines and transmissions but Hyundai's is just on a slightly bigger scale.
It's not a fucken Toyota your talking about is it , there over priced and over rated shit and that's going by experience, my landcruser was the worst piece of shit I have ever owned.
I'd rather own a kia/hyundai than support those monkey gassing emissions cheating assholes any day. the sooner volkswagen goes bankrupt the better off humanity will be.
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Hyundai Nu family of engines (G4NA/G4NB) as well as Theta family (G4KD/G4KE) are widely known for piston and cilinder abrasion that leads to diesel-like knocking. There are at least two reasons for that: bad oil supply and quick degradation of the catalyst. Latter leads to pumping of small pieces of catalyst back into engine.
We, in Russia have already found how to repair this shiity constructed engines. You can find lot of videos in the K-POWERtuning channel here on youtube but all of them are in Russian. Anyway, they are detailed enough to see same story as @Auto Repair Guys show - knocking, cilinder scratches, piston abrasion. And it happens in a very different mileage - sometimes at 60 thousands km even!
Dont start them and throw them in gear before the engine even idles down. And if you can't take two to three minutes to let warm up dont push it. I have 220000 on Sportage and 115 on Optima.
I've owned lots of makes and models and at this stage I could blow an engine tomorrow and they'd still be the best cars I've ever owned zero leaks zero oil/coolant consumption everything's original except spark plugs on Sportage.
I have 229,000.. change my oil every 5,000.. full synthetic and genuine hyundai filter.. just replaced the motor mounts and crank position sensor.. still running smooth.. of course I change or clean the air filter regularly too. I try to drive smoothly as I depress the gas pedal when accelerating.. not slow just smooth.
Im at 76K~ and I am experiencing the "diesel knocking" ( there may also be rough idling or shaking) and after trying to a lot of different things (it doesn't show in the codes, surprise!) It seems this is the case with all of these Hyundais and Kias(child company of Hyundai FYI)
Now based on the comments about warming up the engine- let me tell you that it wouldn't make a difference because I always warm up my engine before I take off.
This is a manufacturing issue from Hyundai; now I am not a mechanic nut but the consensus from people who have experienced this or have an inside contact in Hyundai is that the piston size (skirt) - rod size was bad ( quite the understatement) as you can see from the video and/or personal experience.
So, if you are under warranty they will just replaced your engine with a new one; otherwise they will try to charge you an out of pocket for a defective MAJOR mistake on their part (AH, capitalism...)
I mean really what vehicle doesn't even make it to the 100K and is already crying for a new block.
There was class action against Hyundai over this but it only included the 1.8 L engines ( I have a 2.0 L from my 2014 Elantra Sport, so they excluded me on a latter mail letter)
www.carcomplaints.com/news/2021/hyundai-elantra-class-action-lawsuit-settled.shtml
Nowadays if you had one the models from the bad years- the dealer will blame you for the damages and poor car maintenance and Hyundai now denies any claim of defective engines of oil sludge and piston slap.
It is shocking to see this piston wear out like it did and a relief to avoid this bullet.
I am so happy I stuck to Honda. My experience is with 88 Prelude, 88 Concerto, 92 DelSol, 92 Accord and 96 Accords, all have had bullet proof engines.
The engines are so bullet proof the mileage is not an issue when we puchased them all 2nd hand.
My brother's 96 Accord (purchased 9 yrs old in 2005) is now on 332K kms and Dad's 92 Accord (purchased 16 years old in 2008) is now on 345K kms and drives like new.
I have owned and drove Honda since 1997 and still have all the Honda we ever purchased in the family.
We have never had to or felt the need to buy another brand or another car since owning the Honda's we now own.
I don't think the pistons will ever wear out in our lifetime.
You're lucky. I used to desperately try to find a 90's honda/acura that's not souped up, swapped or rusted out, and since I live in a salt ridden province (PEI) it's almost rare to find a car older than 2000 that's not rotted out and is not a ram/gmc/chevy/ford truck.
I bought a new 2011 Hyundai Elantra and I only put on 20,000km and I could hear this nock on a cold start up myself I am so happy I sold this car right away for almost the price I paid for it. Junk motor the 1.8 NU motor is
The engine knock is a faulty lower engine block covered by warranty. Mine was replaced 3 times. Like getting a brand new engine every 60,000 km.
My 2015 Sonata had this knocking issue it sounded like a diesel it turned out that it was a knock sensor and it was a factory defect so I send it to the dealer and they changed my engine and I didn’t have warranty my car had 154k miles but they changed it because it was factory recall it took them 6 weeks but they put in a new engine
I have the same problème how much did you pay for that?
@@SamSam-wu3fu nothing there was a factory defect Hyundai changed my engine and gave me a rental for 2 months until they got the new engine and yes I had over 140k on it this was a factory defect
@john m what do I have to do to get my engine replaced ? I’m still in warranty and had the recall done last year. I get a rattling sound when accelerating so I’m betting it’s the same problem as described in the video. Do I call a Hyundai dealership and explain my issue ?
@@ginoventura7226 go to the dealer they had a factory recall they replaced my engine after that knock sensor messed up my engine it took 2 months but they gave me a rental and they paid for it
John m tjhank you. I had the recall done too. No service engine soon light came in or anything. Just getting that rattling sound and noticed metal shavings in my oil. Going to call my local dealer today. I still have 3 years left on my loan. They better make it right.
the 2.0 liter is the Theta 2 engine that is the same as in the Mitsu EVO but Mitsu uses their pistons and rods and bearings, Smit soft bad metelugy by Hyundai for the last 12 years. HEAD IN SAND. Hyundai should have Mahle pistons made for it and call it a day. I had a 2013 Elantra GT 1.8 go out with 14,000 miles with Mobil 1 dumps at 3,500 miles. I now let my Hyundai Kona AWD 1.6T warm up even in summer at least 1 minute to 2 minutes. in Winters at least 4 minutes/car starter.
Excellent video. My car is in the shop getting a new engine block due to this. 99,000 miles.
How long did it take to get it back?
Very good advice to let the engine warm up. The oil needs to be at least 85 degrees to offer good protection
@ThePariss333 no you're wrong. Engine warms up at idle just fine.
Let it idle about 2 min in winter, then take it easy another 5 min. Injection, carburetors, dont care, if they are running, they will warm up not moving. Been driving 43 years, EXPERIENCE trumps EVERYBODY'S frickin opinions .and I've never had a car with engine problems, and some of my engines have had over 340.000 miles. 2 minutes or a little more if you want . In summer. 1st start for the day, 30 seconds is good.
@ThePariss333 sounds good. My Dad drove till he was 93. You've got a long way to go !
In winter I warm up engine for about 5 minutes when i clean windows and then drive. In summer, I warm up the engine for about 30s and drive. I never go over 3.000rpm until coolant is at 85°C and for at least 5 minutes.
@ThePariss333 always idle for at least 30 seconds before driving off first start of the day, regardless of engine and temperature. It's all to do with the thermal expansion of the metal, and if you put load on an engine that hasn't warmed up a little for the cylinders to expand, the pistons can scuff and you'll get severe wear like in this video
@ThePariss333 To say you seemed against the warm up period 1 minute is more than enough. Your cold start routine is similar to mine though but I only idle for 30 seconds before moving off. Not sure what your comment about driving 62 years is for though, I know people that have been on the road for that long and they have started driving on the wrong side of the road etc. haha
Dude, this is exactly what happened to me. I think it probably had something to do with me getting into the whip and just driving in cold weather. Makes sense to warm it up when you know what can go wrong.
Sounds like an expensive fix unless it's under warranty.
Ever get this fixed ?
Wow, the weather started getting cold where I live and my 2.0t is making noises now too
Similiar problem i small Fiat engines, like 1.1 and 1.2 liter. I happen to have a car with the 1.1 version and it has a strong, really strong piston slap. BUT! It happens only when it is cold. After the engine warms up, it goes away 100%. The car has 100.000km on it, so as the engine. Drove it since it had 90.000km on my own and it works ok, nothing got worse or better. People and mechanics say, that it's a factory problem, something was wrong with the pistons from the get go.
Fiat is way worse than even the worst years of hyundai. That's like the least reliable car brand lol
Great informative video! Thank you for sharing
Update I developed a little tuc, I was ready for a oil change, at 104,000 miles I switched to synthetic oil and put lucas oil stabilizer after about 800 miles so far the engine tuc is gone. I talked to hyundai and thank God I found out, before winter to not Rev motor and let the car idle and warm up on cold days. I would try that before replacing motor
The side skirts on those pistons looks quite short not to mention scuffed and badly scratched. With such short piston skirts the pistons will rock sideways within the cylinder bore during the power stroke. Probably where that piston slap noise is coming from. That side to side rocking piston slap also compromises the oil control ring and piston head sealing rings leading to excessive oil burning and consumption. The KIA/Hyundai engines affected by this obvious manufacturing cost-cutting and engineering design flaw are the Theta 1 and Theta 2 engines. These are the same engines with bad fittings around the high pressure fuel pump for the GDI system causing gasoline to leak out and spontaneously catch fire burning the vehicle entirely. Saving a few cents and dollars here and there during the manufacturing and assembly of KIA/Hyundai engines costed them a lot more in eroded customer trust within their car brand and lawsuits from federal regulators and national courts.
I have a 2012 elantra with original engine and transmission with 231k on it. Runs and shifts great still. Seeing all these other problems confuse me about the 1.8.
I got one I bought with the knock and its number 1 piston scored the block so bad it’s junk. Get a Toyota these Hyundais are piles of garbage man you just got lucky. Its not even due to bad maintenance it’s from bad engineering
Customer Meera has same car always serviced correct oils, and parts then knock knock knock.....engine boom
I had bad pcv valve, the oil turn into jelly black sludge after 5000km. I noticed same brown burnt oil attached to the walls inside the engine.
I read about an Italian guy with a Niro had scratced cylinder because broken ceramic inside the catalytic converter. For some reason or some pollution reducer the ceramic particles was sucked inside the combustion chamber.
After some monts ad research about gdi engine I found some russian youtube videos were they change pistons, bearings, head and in all cars they cut the catalytic converters because had broken ceramic inside!!
My 2014 Hyundai Santa fe sport had total engine failure 20 minutes after leaving the Hyundai dealership at 57,000 miles. The dealership did a full inspection prior to the explosion and they told me nothing was wrong. After the engine failure the dealership kept me in the dark of what actually happened to the engine. They put a new engine in it but I traded it in immediately after getting it back!
They forgot to put the oil hole bung or filter back in. So the apprenticeship wrecked your engine. You probably heard a lot of clattering as it died.
Correct that piston too short and needs a longer skirt. I drove all my cars cold even below zero for decades and never once had piston slap.
Too long inbetween oil changes or oil filter 🤔, check hyundai part #s for the pistons, if they changed the part # then you know they changed the part out
Had my 2015 hyundai elantra gls engine fail at 337.000 km Due to overheat problems
What did you do with the car?
Canadian here with a 2013 Elantra GLS w/ 1.8L 6-Spd Manual. Car never failed to start even at -20C (-4F) or colder. Regularly maintained by a Hyundai dealer or other professional shop. Car is currently at 216,000km (135,000miles) and runs like a champion. The car is designed for a range of temperatures and cold weather starts are normal. Your car sounds like a lemon.
Ya , well canadian here, & they have a problem , but worse they are not fixing it at all , see the class action law suit in Quebec.
Happened to my 2014 Elantra that was at 67830 when I took it in. It took them over 2.5 months to fix it with the warranty
What was wrong with it
same issue im having with my 2017 elantra. funny part is, it happened when i hit 69420 miles.
@@robertwaldo3055 heh heh... 69... and 420... K00L
You must be in America to wait 2.5 months. Mine was serviced within a week of reporting the issue.
@@rockon8174 I took mine to the shop 4 months ago and am still waiting on repairs
Good work, nice to find the answer I was looking for. Those piston skirts look a little short.
How do you bore an aluminum block? If it has an iron sleeve, I understand, but if it's all aluminum, it must have some kind of coating, such as nickasil? Do you have an iron sleeve pressed in or can the coating on the cylinder bore be restored somehow? I am interested in the solution to this problem.
These have iron cylinder sleeves
Why is there no recall on the motors
If it happens too much then eventually there will be.
My 2008 elentra makes a weird noise accelerating up to 35-40 can’t tell if it’s a transmission problem it only does it when it up shifts or if I’m going slow up a hill and accelerate but sometimes it does it when the car doesn’t even shift
Hello, I have a question. I have an Elantra Limited 1.8 engine in 2014. When I start it in the morning, it makes a sound like tk tk tk when it warms up, the engine does not have it, what would you diagnose
Get some oil destabilized and switch to synthetic oil. Mine has a little tiny tic. But I'm gonna get that snd hopefully goes away. Warming up car 2013 hyundai elantra
Just finished watching a video from Mario Diagnostics. Very similar problem with piston slap and worn bearings on a Hyundai. Good video thanks for sharing. 👍
the offset crank/short pistons and bad metallurgy are a problem. THE BIGGEST problem is Hyunda does change the design into a more robust design. THAT is the TRUE problem.
Don't matter what time of year it is let her get flowing keep it y'all good
Problem with these engines that there is lack of lubrication and there is no oil jets for piston cooling ( It can be added during overhaul, there are oil passages made from factory, but for some reason it was not equip with jets). My suggestion would be to use 5w-40. oil.
5w40 instead of what type of oil? Thank you!
@@luisd.2109in usa hyundai recommends a 5w-20 grade which is too thin
My tic is gone, I used Lucas oil stabilizer and switched to synthetic and always warm up car in cold weather
Where you got 2014 Hyundai Elantra GT 2.0 engine rebuild torque specs to rebuild the engine please, or if any one has any information please
I have a 3.8 gdi engine in a 2012 genesis sedan that is doin piston slap hyundia says the engine is not coverd
can you still drive your car if it has this issue, or should you trade it in.
Bump
They won’t honor the warranty if the car has a salvage title?
so should i first go and have the dealer check? maybe its about the recall i owned a 2010 kia forte 2.0L and its having a knocking
Yes, go to the dealership!
Not a problem for me. I have to Coast for a few minutes before I get to the road.
what's the difference between elentra or avante
How much does it cost to fix that?
I’m a second owner and my 2015 Elantra has 83,000 miles it started making that noise so I took it to the dealer. They told me it was a manufacture error but since im second owner they wanted me to pay for half of the new motor. I don’t think I should pay for their erro I tried to fight it but they wouldn’t budge. Now I have a car whose motor is going to blow up
I thought about trying to get a lawyer. I’ve never had to fight with a business before. Does anyone have any advice?
Try talking to coperate hyundai and see what they'll do. A lawyer won't be cheap.
You need to look up if there is a warranty for just the engine. Just got a 2015 kia soul and due to it having a known engine failure kia has extended there engine warranty. Mine hasn't fail but the car has been there three times for a engine noise.
@@donaldpriddy497 how recientemente?
I got the engine light with the error code that is related to this knock engine issue but they updated the ECM which made the code go away. I am also a second owner with only have 45,000 miles on my 2017 Hyundai. I change my oil every 5,000 miles with full synthetic oil. Do you remember the price they told you for a new motor?
@@WidePhotographs $5000 ….they wouldn’t pay for mine. I just made a TikTok talking about it. The forms and documentation states that it’s covered. You should be fine…. You can find all the court documents on “hmapistonsettlement.com”
What year is this car??
Probably around 2013-2016 or something fairly new.
Sounds like he's talking under water sponge bob square pants, sponge bob square pants!
What going on with that cylinder number 3?????
This engine was over heat before
knock knock , who's there? Engine failure.
Hahahaha
Engine failure who?
Lol, engine failure whom?
@@adictiveadictive Engine failure Hyundai lol
Ugh
My 2007 Hyundai veracruz is knocking bad and it has oil in it just got a oil change what do I do
Get Lucas oil stabilizer try that before spending huge dollars
And switch to synthetic oil. After about 800 to 1000 miles the tic should get better unless it's damaged and been knocking for months
I have a friend who had a grand prix with the 3.1 that had barely perceptible slap when first started. He ran down to the dealer and demanded they fix it. So they sleeved it and turned his 3.1 into a 2.8. Didn't reprogram it, it was a dog after that, didn't shift right. He dumped it. I just laughed.
Nice vidéo!
Happened to my 2013 GLS at 95000 km
Did you ever rebuild this engine?
as i mentioned in your last video,, you guys rock,,, unfortunately we own one of these pos hyundai,s ill never buy hyundai again..
longer rods means it has a higher compression ratio
higher compression needs a higher octane not the lower one
higher octanes slow burning
less early detonation
less early detonation less piston stress
check also you ignition timing if you were able to adjust it
or if there no way to adjust then stick to higher octane
check also the knock sensor
must be working properly
the pistons on my 2003 Hyundai 2.4 GL looked a lot cleaner than these on video at 200k...what oil was used \??
What oil?....no oil!
Most of these videos are people going 50,000 miles without a oil change. Hyundais are strong engines but even they need to be maintained well
Also to add new Hyundais can be more reliable than the early 2000 ones even tho early to mid 2000s are some of the most bulletproof Hyundais ever (I had a 05 Elantra now a 21 Hyundai Tucson and 07 Toyota prius) but if they are gdi and most are you need to change the oil on time as the engine takes more a beating with gdi but they are much better than earlier gdis especially made in america models (that plant had many issues that K vin number Korean made ones didn't have) like they have the new konas that are mpi which are they same kind of engine of early 2000 Hyundais and don't have as much pressure going on which is why the kona is a great model I think the palisade doesn't have gdi either but can be wrong
Hi i have 2012 elantra gls and my door open button its not working please video :)
good video!!
Reliable car Elantra 1M mile awarded...
Y this Elantra knock
Exactly can go as long as a honda vtec or toyota vvt-i or 1 really truthfully they all have variable valve timing just different setups for it
The 1.8NU engine has an off center crankshaft. Probably the cause of the piston slap.
I’m worried about my car. I can’t diagnose what is the noise.
What cylinder head gasket thickness?
Wrong grade of oil used.. Hyundai/Kia call for using reg 5-20 oil when it should have been 0-20.
I think I might have had engine slap ever since my car is new. It is less so now, especially with a thicker oil. I don't feel good.
A lot of Hyundai engines including the old Alpha 1.6 lt MPI sound like a bucket of hammers when cold started until the oil circulates.
I have been an engine machinist for almost 35 years. The main cause of problems with hyundai engines is the dog urine 5w20 oil that the factory recommends. Using 5w30 or 10w30 synthetic oil will substantially reduce and sometimes even eliminate knocking in these engines, and greatly increases engine life.
@@HowardJrFord gonna try the 5w-30 syn with Lucas oil stabilizer (which shouldn't hurt)...thanks
@@zozohoney79 that's exactly what I'm going to do tomorrow! oil change with 5w-30 or 10w-30? Still haven't decided but I already but the Lucas high mileage oil stabilizer for my 06 Tucson with what I believe is piston slap?? It's only on cold starts then goes away when engine starts to warm up.
@@pono321 could be piston slap....I had piston slap on my last 2 subarus that went away once warmed up. i ended up getting high mileagae on both engines. this time however it's my wife's 2013 elantra 1.8. noise improves on warm up, but doesnt go away. i was always suspicious of these thinner oils they use now trying to improve fuel efficiency. i had 5w-30 with lucas in my subarus, but that never made noise go away on cold start.
Bore scoring also affects the majority of Porsches as well so Hyundai is in good company lol
Had my 2014 hyundai sonata gls engine fail at 120,000 kms.
@Archie B Yes Hyundai replaced the long block for free.
Any way to avoid this? I replaced my engine (same engine dif car) at 55k miles OUT OF POCKET. Bought a used engine and placed it in. But its bound to happen again. All these kia and Hyundai engines are craps. Will synthetic oil help??? Buying better connecting rods?
By a different brand of car.
Nothing will help. Once these things start to go bad it’s terminal. Best thing you can do is unload it while it’s running and be sure to state as is on the add. That absolves you of any blame
Hi AUTO REPAIR GUYS - does this Affect the 2016 Hyundai 1.6 GDI engine as well? thank you GREAT VIDEO
Yes. I had mine replaced
@@zachhaefner2711 what happened with yours and what mileage?
Guys. I have problem..please help..hyundai i30 2007 1.6 16V petrol 115 HP.. when I speed up, in every gear around 1500-1800 rpm a short sound of metal scraping from the front right side engine area is heard. below and above those rpm has no problem, weird sound is not registred. also when I accelerate very slowly there is no sound at the mentioned rpms. but it is almost always present if I accelerate at that range of rpm. Also in neutral at same rpms that metalic scraping is not heard. guys what could be a problem? Many thanks!
Scraping is from your muffler. It's a rattling type of scraping, right? Hyundai had a defect muffler support panel.
Do not by a Hyundai between the years 2011-2014 especially a Sonata. Your engine will have the same fate i can almost guarantee it. 59,000 miles and now my engine is knocking and I babied the car and always maintained it properly. The thing that really bothers me is that Hyundai sold me a used Sonata with 22,000 miles on it knowing this car had an engine defect that can make your engine seize possibly killing you or someone else if this happens on the expressway or the wrong moment. Hyundai has a horrible code of ethics and care nothing about your safety. You go do the dealerships and they tell you oh that noise is normal and treat you like you're a fool. This car and dealing with hyundai dealers has taken years off my life.
What About 2015
@@SamSam-wu3fu Hey, from the research that i've done the 2011-2019 Sonatas have engine problems so I would stay away. My brother has a 2015 and hasn't had any issues but he only has around 30,000 miles on it. Hyundai did replace the engine but ultimately I wish I had bought a Toyota. Two friends of mine also had their Hyundai engines replaced around the 60,000 mile mark. I think the 2020 engines are much better and don't have the same engines issues as they are redesigned. Honestly if I were you I would find a good used Toyota. The other issue with Hyundai is the resale value is terrible so if you get in an accident and are still making payments it could cost you out of pocket. Take care my friend.
Thanks a lot!
Actually I have one 2015 and it's sounds like it's starting to have knocking sometimes and I really regret to buy it .now I put it for sell I don't .and I wish if bought a Toyota is much better. Thanks a lot for you advices .be safe
@@SamSam-wu3fu Hey Sam sorry to hear you're having problems with your Hyundai. If I were you I would see if Hyundai will put a new engine in your car because you may not get a lot of money for the car. If they will fix it and you get 4 or 5 years out of the car that may be a better option. Don't let them tell you nothing is wrong with the car. You can't be nice to the idiots at the dealership because they all have been coached to lie to you. Take videos when the engine is knocking and send it to corporate. Keep bothering them everyday until they fix it. I got kicked out of the dealership for cursing out the manager and raising hell. Also try going to different dealerships to see if someone else can help you. Good luck my friend.
Oil changes are not enough engines knead maintenance
Your ideas of engineering the engine is not a good idea
There building 100 million engines you think there gonna do a mistake
If this car isn’t used the way it’s supposed to be used it will break its engineered to work perfectly unless you decide to use the car as it’s not supposed to be used
I have this car this engin like any other engine kneads engine flushing and it kneads specific oil and oil filter very simple
I bought the car 200000 miles the guy sold it cause he got scared of the sounds it’s making I bought it for cheap and just a simple engine flush and warm the car up before driving
That was barely understandable at best but regular maintenance is enough. Engine flushes are definitely not recommended by ANY manufacturer. However much engines they are building is irrelevant since it is a well known and well documented issue Hyundai engines lock up. Doesn't matter how well you take care of it it's a large number of defective engines. Even now Hyundai ships their new cars mind you BRAND NEW with a engine inside a crate to replace the one that is in the car originally before the car is sold due to the fact that they know the engine that is in the car will lock up and needs to be replaced.
This happen cuz crank is bad..rid bearing worn make gap and up stroke scrap cylinder.....
Could the 5W-20 dealer recommended oil be too thin?
I wonder how much carbon build up was in the valves.
@ThePariss333 5W20 is recommended for maximum fuel economy, not maximum engine life. Have a look in the owners manual, there is a selection of approved oil viscosity allowed, right up to 15W40 and 20W50 if the car is used in hot climates. As long as it has the approved oil rating of SM or is it SL?
@ThePariss333 We had a 2007 Accent with the 1.6 Lt Alpha engine, it was getting very rattly when it was traded at 130,000 KM roughly 75,000 M. I was also seeing fine metal sparkles in the oil, I changed the oil every 5,000 KM with 10W 40 full synthetic.
The Hyundai dealership I use now uses 0w20 only
it took till 183k miles, and my engine started doing it finally. i was wondering when it would. happened a few days ago. oh well, at least I didnt buy it new
you tore apart your engine because of a timing issue that could have been solved by replacing the crankshaft position sensor. Seen it 100 times.
boss
You should see how the pistons rock in the bore when cold on these engines with "the slap". Literally .020" piston-to-wall clearance or more when cold at top dead center.
You can clearly see the scored cylinder walls and pistons in the video .
Probably ran it with the same oil from the dealer since new... Looks like a very poorly maintained engine. No wonder it developed problems.
Dumb comment, that cylinder head is clean. I have the same car since new. Maintained with synthetic oil and good filters and it knocks also. Research the issue, it is well known.
@@os5800 They wrote, and I quote: "...it is possible that we contributed for the knock. On a cold winter day we did not warm up the car before driving it and it started ticking. A few hundred miles later it turned into a louder knock."
Moreover, this engine is on warranty for 5 years against such defects and would be replaced at no cost by Hyundai. But he says that this car is a salvage (if I heard right) not eligible for warranty coverage. I also have that same engine (2016) and if it ever develops a knock, I'll be sure to take it to the dealer and tell them, so that they can replace the engine under warranty. But I use full synthetic oil and OEM filter, and change it every 8000 KM. And so far so good. Fingers crossed.
@Barry Boppins
I know that some engines had problems early on, and many were replaced by Hyundai in the early years of this particular generation model. Anyway, I don't really care about that anymore because I've recently replaced my 2016 Elantra GL with a Stinger GT Limited. ;-)
Unless they already cleaned up the head , it shows remarkably clean cam & rocker area .The engineers made 2 major mistakes ,# 1 no piston oiling jets (like their own 6 cylinder motors) ,# 2 since these engines typically rev 2,000 rpm or less at highway speed, the actual piston speed should be considerably lower than previous 3 speed models that ran closer to 4,000 rpm ., (this alone should have saved them).#3 with the short skirt & aluminum block, & very thin cylinder plating All it takes is one ring gap to snag ,& / or a slight over heat, & hard particles will tear off the cylinder walls effectively like adding glass blasting material to a clean bolt hole..Research it. , try it. , see what happens ..That's why they are telling everyone it's metal shavings in the block, but it wasn't from the factory procedures.
Yea, thanks for posting this. This is the same issue that Porsche 996 has.....but glad it's my daughter's Elantra vs. my Porsche. A lot cheaper to fix this car. Thinking of getting a used engine.....but I feel that is just rolling the dice. My video:
ruclips.net/video/YC9XQRmFWtI/видео.html
If it’s your lower block that’s knocking Hyundai will replace your engine for FREE
My 2013 Elantra is going in next week, they are replacing short block. Apparently the Nu 1.8L engines made in the Alabama Plant made between 2011 and 2016 are affected.
Lucky you, my dealer refuses to change it for me. They claim they never heard of any issues such as knocking.
My dealer wouldn’t change my engine they wanted me to pay for half even though they stated that it was a manufacture error. I tried to finger it but they won’t budge. So now I have a car whose engine is going to blow up
No more Kia Hyundai for me...
Horrible engineering and quality control. In other blunders, they installed engine bearings backwards in another run of engines. People actually compare this junk to Honda and Toyota, too. They compare features and price on new cars, but don't consider long term reliability.
" and they will replace your engine "
Maybe
Last Hyundai I ever buy
They just have bad engines
True I wouldnt buy the new hyundais maybe the older ones from 2002 to 2005 recomend the Hyundai accent. Reason why is because it uses a rebranded 4g63 engine from a Mistubishi lancer.
I bet these engines are started on ice cold days, conventional oil with 10K miles on it, and driven like bats out of Hell out of the driveway.
Go buy one!
There's this lady who has the same Hyundai Elantra as yours and she has over 1 million miles on it---with the original engine and transmission.
@@bpimpin6037 hyundai corrected their issue after 2012 its wasn't Hyundai fault do your research. The factory that distributes these engine made a mistake when assembling them which left peices of metal down in the oil pan and when the engine sucked up the oil the metal peices were scratching all around the engine to the point where engines failed around 40,000kms. This is not hyundais fault their distributor should be sued for negligence.
@@MJT-DA Funny how even brand new 2019 models ship with a crate motor and they want the dealer to swap that into the car before it is sold. It's almost like the engines produced even now are defective. Also 2015-2017 cars are still locking up so no they did not fix it after 2012 it is still very much an on going issue. You need to do your research.
18 elantra like mine the engines are failing
Quality control needs to be better hit n miss scenario
@@MJT-DA, hyundai has not corrected anything. My elantra is a 2016 model, maintained with full synthetic and good filters (oem or wix) at 5k and it is developing the same issue. Also whatever gets sucked up goes thru the filter and should go no further. 65k miles on mine. Bought new.
Your problem is that you didn't buy a Toyota
Hyondai uses cheap material
The new ones a crap. The old ones from 2005 used full iron block 4g63 emgines. Those can last for ages.
Japanese - Measure twice cut once
Chinese - Cut twice........Measure it later...
Did you ever change the oil? seriously 😒
That's not the reason there was a recall on these engine. There was metal peices still inside the motors that caused damage to the cylinder walls.
you forgot to change your oil & over rev..
Can barely hear you.
piston height is too shallow, shitty design!!!
Never buying one Toyota only
I hate to be the one to tell you this, but Toyota also put out quite a few defective engines over the past 15 years or so.
@@HowardJrFord And transmissions heh. All manufacturers has had their share of shoddy engines and transmissions but Hyundai's is just on a slightly bigger scale.
your always drive @ high rpm
Even so engine are built to handle abuse. An engine that can't is a bad design.
Junk.
NEVER BUY HYUNDAI / KIA
Why
Wrong
Cheap engines
Worth noting only use a Hyundai oil filter on these cars. Something about a cheap oil filter causes engine noise.
Overall, These engines are junk
That car has no warranty. Take it to the junkyard bro
It's not a fucken Toyota your talking about is it , there over priced and over rated shit and that's going by experience, my landcruser was the worst piece of shit I have ever owned.
Cause it's a Hyundai. Get rid of it. I traded my Kia optima (an offshoot of Hyundai) for aVW Passat. Best trade ever made. Kia's are a POS.
I'd rather own a kia/hyundai than support those monkey gassing emissions cheating assholes any day. the sooner volkswagen goes bankrupt the better off humanity will be.
Shit, english terrible. Sorry
Ironically your grammar sucks too. How did you forget a period after your last word? And you also put your comma in the wrong spot.