The end crush on a rope seal happens when you torque down the cap after trimming the ends flush to the cap and block with a razor blade. I've installed dozens of these over the years in the car, as well as out of the car, and I never had any trouble with them. I think the trouble most people have with them is that they pack the seal too tightly into the groove, probably expecting to be able to spin the crank by hand. Not gonna happen with a rope seal, but they loosen up when running. I've never soaked a rope seal in oil either, not necessary. In the car, loosen the main caps, allowing the crank to drop down a bit. use a sneaky pete to pull the seal up and around the crankshaft while turning the crank, tighten the caps, leaving the rear one off, trim the ends flush with a razor blade, install the rear cap, and you're done. Actually for some applications I like the rope better, and for sure better than the viton seals some use. I've just seen way too many viton seals with the lip split off them because the material doesn't stand up to heat well. The newer silicone based seals work great though. A properly installed rope seal will, in many cases, outlast the engine.
You prolly dont care at all but does anybody know a way to log back into an Instagram account..? I was stupid lost my login password. I appreciate any tricks you can offer me!
@Royce Eliseo i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and im trying it out atm. Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
I remember when we used to install rope seals to fix rear main leaks. A lot of motors are 1 piece seals now. We used a tool called a Sneaky Pete. It was used when installing a rope seal with the crank still in place. Cool vid.
Have done this installation many times. Forklift service for 40 years. Use to leave one.end short in grove an one end longer on mating piece to form a circle. Remember to form seal with a dowel
Hi all good video yep been doing rope seals with graphite for twenty five years on large pumps not a lot of difference in doing my 253 holden a lot of piss farting around eventually had to buy another as the first one fell apart after removing to many times but I new what was to be expected of this seal and yes these seals will last many years if installed correctly the dollies mandrel etc help but experience out weighs any tool My only tools were a knife very sharp a nylon mallet and the bearing shells and many hours and patience
A lot of mid seventy's trucks with the 351M motors the rear seal leaked. The best longest fix we found was a rope seal. We put in quite a few rope seals with a very good success rate.You still have to loosen some main caps but not all that bad.
That is what those two round openings in the cap is for. they are anti rotation holes for the seal to expand into. Fuck that drilling the cap shit. Thats nuts.
A friend who is familiar with rope seals told me that it is a good idea to let the rope seal soak in engine oil for 24 hrs before installing. I don't know, its what he said. He owns a couple of WW2 military vehicles.
I used to live aboard my 41' Morgan Out-Island Ketch rig with a Perkins diesel auxiliary and had to pack those propeller shaft boxes quite a few times. Boat sank in Miami when Hurricane Andrew hit there!!
When you have a regular rear main seal use some rtv or high tack around the outside metal part of the seal, press the seal on and ur good for a very long time. Also buy a seal from the dealer.
I placed a putty knife flush with the surface of the motor and took one of my wife’s serrated knives and it made a nice straight even cut and cut quickly
QUESTION.... I CANT GET A STRAIGHT CUT ON THE ROPE SEAL. IS IT BAD THAT IT FRAYS? I BOUGHT BRAND SPANKIN NEW BLADES AND IT FRAYS. SHOULD I BUY A NEW REAR SEAL?
Actually, after you mentioned the stroker kit for the 400 I remembered someone had done a video on a 400 stroked engine, then I put together that it was you!! Went back and re-watched it ( Cheator40 Project72 18 ). That's going to be fierce 461. I'm using many stock parts on mine so it will not be the serious performer yours will be. Can't wait to see her go together and running!!
It's interesting reading the procedure for replacing the rear main seal while still in the car from the Pontiac Service Manual. Doesn't sound like much fun!! What was your success rate?
How much time did it take you to get the cut clean? I worked on each one (so four total) for 10-15 min each, and still have a shaggy, disgusting cut. Brand new out-of-the-box razors still felt like I was trying to cut a piece of glass with a stick of butter, IE almost useless. Is there some secret here?
I think they must be using something like kevlar or some similar fibre. I had the same problem. Two different new razor edges WOULD NOT cut that stuff. Just frayed hopelessly. I read somewhere to use dykes. I had a small cheap pair from ebay with well fit jaws that worked quite well. If the jaws are not sharp and very closely fit it likely won't work. My problem now is that the Fel Pro rope seal for an F209 Continental it too fat. With the groove filled it locks up the crankshaft even before the cap seals on the cork pan gasket. ???? I'll try to find a smaller rope somewhere. Frustrating, I need the forklift.
Just the way that is. Its GARBAGE in my Opinion, I'm Building a 292 Ford and it Takes about 60 lbs Torque to turn it over I dont know how the starter is going to turn it all over???
@@donaldalbershardt6854 your starter has a giant flywheel it cranks against. The large flywheel attached to the small crank ads a lot of leverage and torque so it might feel like it needs 60 lb of torque if you're turning it after Crank but once you got that flywheel installed it's a big difference
@@woodsandbarclay I had a 2 foot Breaker bar on it .But now I have one of BEST seals that I'm going to try next Thanks.. Also I've done these one early SB Chevys With only Slight Drag and ZERO Leakage , I tried Victor and Felpro on the 292. Both were very tight. I'm hoping the BEST will make me Happy 👍 Later JT.
@@donaldalbershardt6854 I'm currently struggling with the same issues on an old diesel Mercedes engine that I'm rebuilding. It also uses a rope seal and it's a complete pain in the ass.
That is why they give you that type of razor knife. So you can extend the blade out very far in order to keep it flat on the block and cap surface so your cuts are perfectly straight. With the blade this guy used there is no way he got straight cuts. i would also had put an old rear main bearing in the cap and the block when I was bashing the seal in. Especially with that tool. You can easily do some damage to the bearing seat surfaces in the block and cap. One slip and you got a nice dent in your cap or block, not good for the bearings.
The Best Gasket graphite seal is the only one that lasts anymore, If you used the fiber Glass one that comes in all the Gasket sets It WILL eventually leak Guaranteed.
If you are going to use the OEM rope seal design,you must like leaks or replacing rear main seals. I would never go with another rope seal. You should have have installed the rubber seal upgrade. A little more money, but no more leaks.
The end crush on a rope seal happens when you torque down the cap after trimming the ends flush to the cap and block with a razor blade. I've installed dozens of these over the years in the car, as well as out of the car, and I never had any trouble with them. I think the trouble most people have with them is that they pack the seal too tightly into the groove, probably expecting to be able to spin the crank by hand. Not gonna happen with a rope seal, but they loosen up when running. I've never soaked a rope seal in oil either, not necessary. In the car, loosen the main caps, allowing the crank to drop down a bit. use a sneaky pete to pull the seal up and around the crankshaft while turning the crank, tighten the caps, leaving the rear one off, trim the ends flush with a razor blade, install the rear cap, and you're done. Actually for some applications I like the rope better, and for sure better than the viton seals some use. I've just seen way too many viton seals with the lip split off them because the material doesn't stand up to heat well. The newer silicone based seals work great though. A properly installed rope seal will, in many cases, outlast the engine.
Pete 913 C.
You prolly dont care at all but does anybody know a way to log back into an Instagram account..?
I was stupid lost my login password. I appreciate any tricks you can offer me!
@Huxley Kendrick instablaster :)
@Royce Eliseo i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and im trying it out atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later with my results.
@Royce Eliseo It worked and I actually got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thanks so much, you really help me out :D
I remember when we used to install rope seals to fix rear main leaks. A lot of motors are 1 piece seals now. We used a tool called a Sneaky Pete. It was used when installing a rope seal with the crank still in place. Cool vid.
Have done this installation many times. Forklift service for 40 years. Use to leave one.end short in grove an one end longer on mating piece to form a circle. Remember to form seal with a dowel
Hi all good video yep been doing rope seals with graphite for twenty five years on large pumps not a lot of difference in doing my 253 holden a lot of piss farting around eventually had to buy another as the first one fell apart after removing to many times but I new what was to be expected of this seal and yes these seals will last many years if installed correctly the dollies mandrel etc help but experience out weighs any tool My only tools were a knife very sharp a nylon mallet and the bearing shells and many hours and patience
Found that tool on eBay years ago and it does make it easier than using a socket!!
A lot of mid seventy's trucks with the 351M motors the rear seal leaked. The best longest fix we found was a rope seal. We put in quite a few rope seals with a very good success rate.You still have to loosen some main caps but not all that bad.
That is what those two round openings in the cap is for. they are anti rotation holes for the seal to expand into. Fuck that drilling the cap shit. Thats nuts.
A friend who is familiar with rope seals told me that it is a good idea to let the rope seal soak in engine oil for 24 hrs before installing. I don't know, its what he said. He owns a couple of WW2 military vehicles.
I used to live aboard my 41' Morgan Out-Island Ketch rig with a Perkins diesel auxiliary and had to pack those propeller shaft boxes quite a few times. Boat sank in Miami when Hurricane Andrew hit there!!
When you have a regular rear main seal use some rtv or high tack around the outside metal part of the seal, press the seal on and ur good for a very long time. Also buy a seal from the dealer.
Good info, you make it look easy!
Thanks for the how to Brother.
Speed up the video to 1.5, you're welcome
I placed a putty knife flush with the surface of the motor and took one of my wife’s serrated knives and it made a nice straight even cut and cut quickly
You took your wife’s knife from the kitchen?? - you’re a brave man Dennis.
You also do NOT want a crush. Remember this is your rear MAIN CAP. It needs to be all the way down.
Good tip on the rope seal install, thanks
Rotate the stick 90 degrees and it will not split.
Is a rope seal used when the OE seals dont stop leaks anymore?
QUESTION.... I CANT GET A STRAIGHT CUT ON THE ROPE SEAL. IS IT BAD THAT IT FRAYS? I BOUGHT BRAND SPANKIN NEW BLADES AND IT FRAYS. SHOULD I BUY A NEW REAR SEAL?
does this make the crank harder to turn when in position and tensioned????
Yes very much so!! Pain in the AZZ junk Seal!!
Actually, after you mentioned the stroker kit for the 400 I remembered someone had done a video on a 400 stroked engine, then I put together that it was you!! Went back and re-watched it ( Cheator40 Project72 18 ). That's going to be fierce 461. I'm using many stock parts on mine so it will not be the serious performer yours will be. Can't wait to see her go together and running!!
It's interesting reading the procedure for replacing the rear main seal while still in the car from the Pontiac Service Manual. Doesn't sound like much fun!! What was your success rate?
Whats in that technical bulletin that you mention during your vid. U had to use rope of your crank or your block ?
How much time did it take you to get the cut clean? I worked on each one (so four total) for 10-15 min each, and still have a shaggy, disgusting cut. Brand new out-of-the-box razors still felt like I was trying to cut a piece of glass with a stick of butter, IE almost useless.
Is there some secret here?
I think they must be using something like kevlar or some similar fibre. I had the same problem. Two different new razor edges WOULD NOT cut that stuff. Just frayed hopelessly. I read somewhere to use dykes. I had a small cheap pair from ebay with well fit jaws that worked quite well. If the jaws are not sharp and very closely fit it likely won't work. My problem now is that the Fel Pro rope seal for an F209 Continental it too fat. With the groove filled it locks up the crankshaft even before the cap seals on the cork pan gasket. ???? I'll try to find a smaller rope somewhere. Frustrating, I need the forklift.
Just the way that is. Its GARBAGE in my Opinion, I'm Building a 292 Ford and it Takes about 60 lbs Torque to turn it over I dont know how the starter is going to turn it all over???
@@donaldalbershardt6854 your starter has a giant flywheel it cranks against. The large flywheel attached to the small crank ads a lot of leverage and torque so it might feel like it needs 60 lb of torque if you're turning it after Crank but once you got that flywheel installed it's a big difference
@@woodsandbarclay I had a 2 foot Breaker bar on it .But now I have one of BEST seals that I'm going to try next Thanks.. Also I've done these one early SB Chevys With only Slight Drag and ZERO Leakage , I tried Victor and Felpro on the 292. Both were very tight. I'm hoping the BEST will make me Happy 👍 Later JT.
@@donaldalbershardt6854 I'm currently struggling with the same issues on an old diesel Mercedes engine that I'm rebuilding. It also uses a rope seal and it's a complete pain in the ass.
Newspaper has a good video on rope seals in willys Jeep engines
Thanks!! Did you have good success with it sealing?
if i had a rope seal for everytime u said ""umm" id open a fucking lasso school.
What the size of little piece above the blade (to cut thr rope?)
Great, thanks for posting
It's a Buick, Olds, Pontiac thing!
❤
Thank you!
Nice, What's it goin' into? I've been sitting on this one for far too long!!
12:00 get that blade out a bit more !!!
That is why they give you that type of razor knife. So you can extend the blade out very far in order to keep it flat on the block and cap surface so your cuts are perfectly straight.
With the blade this guy used there is no way he got straight cuts. i would also had put an old rear main bearing in the cap and the block when I was bashing the seal in. Especially with that tool. You can easily do some damage to the bearing seat surfaces in the block and cap. One slip and you got a nice dent in your cap or block, not good for the bearings.
Thanks a lot!
Thanks!
Good stuff
The Best Gasket graphite seal is the only one that lasts anymore, If you used the fiber Glass one that comes in all the Gasket sets It WILL eventually leak Guaranteed.
Thanks for watching!!!
Your camera can not focus when you hold it that close too the parts. there is no need to get that close in the first place.
In my other comment the word metalshaper came out as newspaper. Don't know why but it's metalshaper
listenin 2 this guy talk is like pulling teeth.
you're an IDIOT.
glue the template to the block so it dont move
The old asbestos seals worked better because the friction heat didnt do fuck all too the seal.
I have never seen a rope seal (automotive) before...
widget !!
Y
Get a no leak rear seal and be done….. js…….😎…. These rope seals are thrash…
If you are going to use the OEM rope seal design,you must like leaks or replacing rear main seals. I would never go with another rope seal. You should have have installed the rubber seal upgrade. A little more money, but no more leaks.
My Chevy 292 binds I have to use a rope seal
He said he can't.
I can't go to RUBBER on this 292 Ford Either.
Bla bla bla bla bla
Cringe at 14:35