Would a 1mm sheet of delran make it sound like a Harley at lower speeds? (Might have to implement a momentary stop controller to reproduce the almost stall idle skips... ). 🤪
Beautiful work as always, Stefan. What I admire most is your ability to view adversity as a challenge rather than an impediment. Well done, sir. Sincerely, Tom Z
Stefan, thank you. Your presentation was so rich with information that the list would be too long. The big message I got was what could be accomplished with enough care and enough effort.
Randnotiz: Bin immer wieder von der Sauberkeit deiner Maschinen, Spannmittel etc. begeistert. Wünschte ich hätte auf Arbeit die Zeit für soviel Pflege. Aber da gewichten eben andere Prioritäten schwerer. Weiter so!
Surface ground the thing to 0.002mm's...cause that's how I like it! PS: There's nothing better than a purpose built tool. That was really professional, and really inspirational!
I totally agree. I don't have a surface grinder but have recently developed a lapping fetish (surface lapping, cylindrical lapping, even thread lapping), but it's a big PITA to make a lap for everything and most importantly you can't really lap that much out...I'm kinda missing a step!
The cutter is a thing of beauty as ever. I'm not sure if the VCGX tips I suggested would work. After the 15 deg angle grind you would have a thinning of the thickness of the tip and all sorts of compound angle issues. Better to stick with the top grind on the VBMT, but with a slight positive rake angle.
I don’t understand how you don’t have more subscribers... Also, you forgot the monologue while driving around Germany at the end of your videos. I did enjoy those.
Now that I've finished watching the video, I think Sandwich, sorry Sandvik would be proud of you Stefan! You should work for them as chief product prototyping pantographic person probably. It may all be down to rpm and cutter sharpness but you may find it gives a better finish by either climb or conventionally milling a roughing pass, leaving a half millimetre or so of material to finish pass conventionally at your mill's highest rpm. Finely mirror honing the inserts of course will produce a finish equivalent to the edge that you produce on the cutters. Plastics benefit much more than metals from a razor sharp cutting edge as there's virtually zero tool pressure to rub and polish the surface with brute force like cutting steel, thus the heat generated due to friction. Obviously it's not worth sharpening inserts for steel cutting to a fine finish as they will dull quickly but with aluminium and plastics it will be worth it, trust me. As a shop fitting joiner I sometimes have to use a hand held Makita trimmer and 3mm radius cutter with ball bearing to finish 2mm ABS edging tape on MFMDF panels and find it best to quickly back pass (climb cut) to avoid chipping and then forward pass (conventional cut) to give a smooth, polished finish at a slower feed speed. The fine shavings are a nightmare though and static makes them a real pain to clean up as they stick to everything. So just remember that the finish you produce is usually equal to the sharpness of the cutter, particularly in softer materials like wood and plastics which also require higher rpm to avoid chatter. Hope that helps someone.
very very nice. When I was a cabinet maker and needed a smooth finish, I would switch to highspeed steel or tantung (?spelling?) because you can get a sharper edge on your tool. I wonder if the same would apply to plastic??
Fantastic work as usual but it seems to illustrate how ideally suited the shaper is for the hobbyist. A perfect example of the custom tooling you need if you don't have shaper.
Fantastic build Stefan and great result. I expected you to turn the 30 degree angle on the blank first, before you cut the "flutes". I thought that the interrupted cut may not give a great finish. Obviously, the result speaks for itself, but did you even consider doing it the way I described?
I thought you might say that about the chips, Stefan. Furthermore, far from making the finish worse, I'm guessing you will have encountered situations such as in turning aluminium (especially in the softer, "gummier" grades) where an interrupted cut gives a much better finish, presumably because the cutting conditions do not support formation of a "built up edge"? I'm sure the reasons for home-shop people often being gunshy about interrupted cuts relate to the lack of rigidity of most home-shop machine tools. So I guess I should qualify my enthusiasm for that style of cut by saying: as long as the depth of cut and feed rate are kept within the limitations of rigidity (of machine, workpiece and setup)
did you try it on steel steel to cut a grove like the one in your tool post say if w was to make that type of post for my self . i must say i thick it would . Les England . did you consider a D grooving tool in tool steel .
Hi Stefan, thanks for documenting this great build! Nice techniques, great results. However, I noticed some points not so 'stefan-like': - it seems to me that working with X axis on the pantograph will not ensure all inserts are located exactly alike radially, especially if you don't have a DRO there. Maybe if you used hard stops... - thinning down the inserts, using Z on the grinder, will also result in kind of uneven thicknesses. All in all, I would like to see a runout test on the mill, I suspect that it might not live up to your usual standards. Given that, it still would make more sense to me if you prepared a fly cutter with a round HSS bit (single lip cutter grinder would suffice to grind the tool) that would leave a great finish on PVC and allow for easy experimenting on the rake angle. You could, possibly, just use your shaper bit on a fly cutter and compare it to the insert-cutter just for completeness. (or, most probably, you've already tried that...) Many thanks
- Not sure why the x-axis of the pantograph would not be accurate? I always work to the same number on the dial, Same effect as running against a hard stop. - Of course I ground them all to the same thickness - I have a 1micron reading digital indicator on the height adjustment of the surface grinder. I garantuee you that they are pretty close to the same thickness ;) Indeed I checked the runout on the tip of the inserts, its about 2/100mm - Including the MT4/MT2 sleeve in the spindle and the MT2/16mm stub arbor holding the cutter.
Great work as always Stefan. As I am no pro machinist I had a question as to why the 30 degree angle is important? And maybe the 35 works but it did seem to bother you that no 30 degrees were available...
Because its called out on the drawing :) I usually dont bother to discuss dimensions/tolerances of customer parts if there is nothing that is inpractical or impossible.
Interesting video, Stefan. Thanks. If I read your drawing right and consider that you grind the carbide inserts to flat tops then the resulting rake angle is around zero. To my knowledge generally to machine plastics rather acutely positive rake angles are recommended. I don't know whether that is different for PVC but I assume not. Or did you neglect that fact for other reasons? Like you would have had to grind the inserts with a V-groove along lateral cutting lips but stop the groove before cutting open the tip. That would be a challenging and time consuming grind requiring small diameter diamond grinders. I would not want to try that either. An option could have been to use a cutter with only two "wings" with one insert mounted alternatively to each side of the steel disc surfaces. One on the left and the other on the right side. Then it would have been easy to grind a quite positive rake angle on the sides of each insert. As a consequence of the more positive rake angle you could have used higher rpm without melting the PVC and probably gained an even better surface finish and shorter machining time. Such a cutter would even have been easier to make (in case of 2 wings): Only 2 wings instead of three. The insert seats could have been machined 15 deg off perpendicular to the steel disc's upper and lower surfaces which is more accessible than machining on the narrow surface of the "wings". You could easily increase the number of wings to higher even numbers (4 or 6 or more allowing higher feed rates) with alternating inserts on each side. And you probably could (or rather would have to) grind the inserts on your Deckel clone (or future T&C grinder) while they are mounted to the cutter using one of these narrow grinding wheels: www.banggood.com/180-Grit-100mm-Diamond-Grinding-Wheel-Carbide-Steel-Resin-Cutter-p-1001580.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN Probably this design would also produce a fine finish when climb cutting so you could mill your grooves back and forth saving return travel time. What do you think about this "mind-CAD" alternative design?
Impressed by Your work! Do You think using polished carbide positive rake Al type inserts could improve the finish in nylon? I get very good results in the lathe using VCGT and DCGT type inserts for most plastics. Only problem I noticed is som "grabbing" in flimsy parts due to to much rake. Perhaps VCGT would fit directly in Your pockets?
Love the videos. I have a question about your gas struts on your column, do these help with adjusting your z depth so that it doesnt jerk when you are lowering the head. Does it work as good as one would hope?. I did not see a video about this. Thanks for your time
I was playing with Hydrochloric (Muriatic) acid in my shop recently... and (Oh my God) when you said "it makes things rust", that was an understatement.
Stefan. Great video as is your norm. A quick question your vice stop the clamp that hold the rod is it split or just deformed with the clamp bolt ,it look a nice and tidy bit of kit
Great workmanship as usual. Why did you sell your shaper? I suppose it took up a lot of space in your limited space. Thanks for posting. Great channel.
awesome video Stefan! I get so pumped when you put out new material man. So question, or maybe some hypothetical rhetoric, Being that you ground the inserts flat and removed the chip breaker the cutting edge are now more neutral than stock, and also the finish being 120? diamond wheel, now could you lap/hone the cutting edges/faces to a finer grade and would that improve the finish cut quality? From my experience PVC likes very sharp positive geometry. just spitballing... always looking for more knowledge. Cheers brother
You are right on all points :) The top rake is neutral/0° - which works for plastic but is not 100% ideal, and the finish from the D126 wheel is not ideal. Lapping it would and will improve the finish. And I definetly will do that :)
Sorry if I missed this part but, did you grind 2.5 degrees of both sides or just offset the v groove in the holder in relation to the rotational centerline? Hope that made sense. Great video as always!
Thanks Stefan. excellent as usual. How do you true up diamond wheels for flatness and concentricity on your surface grinder and d bit grinder? thanks and regards John Spargo Cape Town
I dress with a piece of pure molybdenium followed by using a aluminium oxide sharpening stick to remove the excess resin bound. That works ok - I guess a brake-dresser would be better, but I dont have...
Excellent video Stefan. Full of usefull information. I especially like the pantograph tricks now that i got one myself. Actually I always liked your pa ntograph videos.
Is there a reason you did not angel the rotary able on the milling machine 30 degrees, cut one side of the pocket and then angle the table 60 degrees off the 30 and mill the other side of the pocket? I would assume that the cutter would be rotated on the table to do each side of the pocket prior to setting the second angle. Dennis L.
Almost professional, are you kidding, looks better than most tools we buy. I was trying to figure out how you made the taper on the chuck side of the tool. I suppose there was enough room in there for the angled cutter or you may have turned the tool around for that cut? Anyway very well done. :-)
I checked with an insert in the pocket, looking down trough the hole for the screw with magnification, to see when the insert was in the right spot in relation to the threaded hole.
Absolutely overkill! I was considering making the complete cutter out of toolsteel, harden and grind it - Or braze some HSS onto a cutter blank, and grind those in shape. But in the end this design was the easiest and fastest to build.
It's all about what you have available and the result looks absolutely amazing. I'm actually quite curious how it will perform on something like aluminium.
I tried to filter them out in post editing, but thats all the static from the fan in the VDF of my lathe, the powersupply for the electronic leadscrew, the dehumidifier and the shity microphone input on the Canon camera :( I wish the audio was better, but I am at the moment stuck with the canon camera and the rhode microphone..
Thanks! The shaper was a very nice machine, indeed, but I just dont use it as much. I do not have the room or desire to keep stuff around that I dont use.
Hi Stefan. Erstmal, super Video und Danke das du so viel Erfahrung und Videos mit uns teilst. Da ich momentan dran bin meine "alte" Fräßmaschine zu verkaufen, habe ich noch das ganze spannzubehör davon übrig. Es handelt sich dabei um 12mm T-Nuten Steine. Nun meine Frage: Da ich mir auch eine Optimum MB4 kaufen will, kann man die Nutensteine auch dort weiter verwenden oder sollte man neue 14mm Nutensteine dazukaufen?? Danke schon mal im Vorraus😁😁
12er Nutensteine in 14er Nut ist Murks, da versaust du dir auf Dauer die Nuten. Empfehle dringend passende Nutensteine - Die Stehbolzen, Pratzen und so weiter kannst du ja weiterverwenden.
Stefan Gotteswinter Danke für die Schnelle Antwort. Dann werden die 12mm Nutensteine mit der "alten" Maschine mitverkauft. Sind ja nicht soo teuer die neuen Pratzen😅😅. Danke für deine Hilfe😁😁👍👍
great work as usual SG. Pro Tip: If you put a playing card in it, it makes your mill sound like a motorcycle.
BrummBrummBrumm!
Would a 1mm sheet of delran make it sound like a Harley at lower speeds? (Might have to implement a momentary stop controller to reproduce the almost stall idle skips... ). 🤪
Always worth the wait for a Gotteswinter video! Thank you for taking the time to share your considerable expertise with us.
Beautiful work as always, Stefan. What I admire most is your ability to view adversity as a challenge rather than an impediment. Well done, sir.
Sincerely,
Tom Z
Thanks Tom! Every day machining stuff is a challenge and I love it :)
Stefan,
thank you. Your presentation was so rich with information that the list would be too long.
The big message I got was what could be accomplished with enough care and enough effort.
Still my favorite one on utube.. can't wait for the next one.
Thanks, and thanks for watching!
It is professional made. Don't short change yourself Stefan.
Glad to see you back Stefan. And thanks for all the helpful hints and tips you sprinkle through the video. BobUK.
Thanks for watching! I was never gone, I just dont have as much time to do video anymore ;)
Alright new Stefan video. German engineering at it's finest.
Turned out nice Stefan👌 Looks professional made to me.
Thank you Steve!
Randnotiz: Bin immer wieder von der Sauberkeit deiner Maschinen, Spannmittel etc. begeistert. Wünschte ich hätte auf Arbeit die Zeit für soviel Pflege. Aber da gewichten eben andere Prioritäten schwerer. Weiter so!
Mir auch, mir auch ;)
Your manual adaptive clearing has the "both ways" option enabled; nice!
Beautiful looking cutter Stephan, Happy Trails, Doug
Surface ground the thing to 0.002mm's...cause that's how I like it!
PS: There's nothing better than a purpose built tool. That was really professional, and really inspirational!
Having a surfacegrinder caused a sickness ;)
Its just so fast and easy to make stuff to tight tolerances with a good finish.
I totally agree. I don't have a surface grinder but have recently developed a lapping fetish (surface lapping, cylindrical lapping, even thread lapping), but it's a big PITA to make a lap for everything and most importantly you can't really lap that much out...I'm kinda missing a step!
I start to get into lapping and its definetly fascinating. I blame Robin Renzetti and Tom Lipton 100% for that.
Very nice tool Stefan, enjoyed.
Hello Stefan, Very beautiful and professional looking piece. Would have liked to have seen more of the machining :(
We will miss you, shaper!
The cutter is a thing of beauty as ever. I'm not sure if the VCGX tips I suggested would work. After the 15 deg angle grind you would have a thinning of the thickness of the tip and all sorts of compound angle issues. Better to stick with the top grind on the VBMT, but with a slight positive rake angle.
Very nice execution and finish.
I don’t understand how you don’t have more subscribers...
Also, you forgot the monologue while driving around Germany at the end of your videos. I did enjoy those.
Haha, you get the drivetime-monologue only when I lack enough video footage to end the video properly ;)
Absolutely beautiful, and the cutter is not bad too
Excellent work yet again Stefan!
Thank you!
Nice touch with the paper pads under the clamps for the rotary table. I will adapt that method myself! Thanks!
Thanks! I use brass, copper or sometimes paper - I hate messing up machine tables.
LOL Stefan, brass translated to danish is messing :D
Really nice work once again Stefan 👍🏼
Thank you!
Great work Stefan. Good thing I know my metric conversions.
Wow, sweet custom cutter Stefan, love the cold black, makes the inserts really pop.
Glorious to watch- well done.
_Dan_
I'd say it was professional made, you definitely know what you're doing.
Great video, keep'um coming.
Thanks for the pantograph tips, I am glad it isn't a dying art. :-)
Excellent engineering solution Stefan. Very impressive, and that is a satisfactory tool, certainly not almost!!!.
Best regards from the UK.
Very nice work. We used isopropyl alcohol at work as a lubricant for cutting plastics (sometimes mixed 50/50 with water).
Now that I've finished watching the video, I think Sandwich, sorry Sandvik would be proud of you Stefan! You should work for them as chief product prototyping pantographic person probably. It may all be down to rpm and cutter sharpness but you may find it gives a better finish by either climb or conventionally milling a roughing pass, leaving a half millimetre or so of material to finish pass conventionally at your mill's highest rpm. Finely mirror honing the inserts of course will produce a finish equivalent to the edge that you produce on the cutters. Plastics benefit much more than metals from a razor sharp cutting edge as there's virtually zero tool pressure to rub and polish the surface with brute force like cutting steel, thus the heat generated due to friction. Obviously it's not worth sharpening inserts for steel cutting to a fine finish as they will dull quickly but with aluminium and plastics it will be worth it, trust me. As a shop fitting joiner I sometimes have to use a hand held Makita trimmer and 3mm radius cutter with ball bearing to finish 2mm ABS edging tape on MFMDF panels and find it best to quickly back pass (climb cut) to avoid chipping and then forward pass (conventional cut) to give a smooth, polished finish at a slower feed speed. The fine shavings are a nightmare though and static makes them a real pain to clean up as they stick to everything. So just remember that the finish you produce is usually equal to the sharpness of the cutter, particularly in softer materials like wood and plastics which also require higher rpm to avoid chatter. Hope that helps someone.
Nice tool, Stefan. Interesting approach to making it.
Very nice cutter, great presentation. Cheers Peter
very very nice. When I was a cabinet maker and needed a smooth finish, I would switch to highspeed steel or tantung (?spelling?) because you can get a sharper edge on your tool. I wonder if the same would apply to plastic??
Excellent work. Thanks Stefan.
Great video as always!!,, inspiring to say the least! And your attention to details are impeccable, thanks for taking the time to show your projects.
What do you mean ‘allmost profesionally made’ it is profesionally made!
Its not heat treated ;)
If it is made within the last month, it must be hot enough where you are Stefan to call it heat treated :)
Well, you’re a professional, and you made it, so…
Great job Stefan! I really enjoyed watching your toolmaking video.
Fantastic work as usual but it seems to illustrate how ideally suited the shaper is for the hobbyist. A perfect example of the custom tooling you need if you don't have shaper.
Excellent presentation Stefan!
That blackening looks super sweet! Thanks for sharing :)
Thanks Adam!
Hi Stefan, I use VCGX tips for Acetal, no big chip breaker profile on the top, in fact its a positive profile.
Fantastic build Stefan and great result. I expected you to turn the 30 degree angle on the blank first, before you cut the "flutes". I thought that the interrupted cut may not give a great finish. Obviously, the result speaks for itself, but did you even consider doing it the way I described?
Thanks. I am not sure why I opted to cut the chamfer after fluting :D
But it worked fine and the interrupted cut produced nice short chips too ;)
I thought you might say that about the chips, Stefan. Furthermore, far from making the finish worse, I'm guessing you will have encountered situations such as in turning aluminium (especially in the softer, "gummier" grades) where an interrupted cut gives a much better finish, presumably because the cutting conditions do not support formation of a "built up edge"?
I'm sure the reasons for home-shop people often being gunshy about interrupted cuts relate to the lack of rigidity of most home-shop machine tools.
So I guess I should qualify my enthusiasm for that style of cut by saying:
as long as the depth of cut and feed rate are kept within the limitations of rigidity (of machine, workpiece and setup)
I like that statement, no messing around,........" because carbide kills you."
If you say "might cause longterm damage to you", nobody will take it serious.
Wow! Super nice build. Super video. Thanks for sharing.
did you try it on steel steel to cut a grove like the one in your tool post say if w was to make that type of post for my self . i must say i thick it would . Les England . did you consider a D grooving tool in tool steel .
Very nicely done Stefan! great video.
ATB, Robin
Thank you Robin!
awesome video design and build....great lessons in various setups...didn’t know 5c to mt2...tks for sharing
Thanks Chuck!
wow, beautifully made...
such a handsome peice of kit
As usual, a great video! Full of good information and ideas, straight to the point, I love it! Thank you!
A key way cut like that? Why didn't I ever try it? Makes perfect sense when I see it. Thanks!
By the way, when are the T-shirts coming out?
Just get a black t shirt. That would be my channel tshirt ;)
Hi Stefan, thanks for documenting this great build! Nice techniques, great results.
However, I noticed some points not so 'stefan-like':
- it seems to me that working with X axis on the pantograph will not ensure all inserts are located exactly alike radially, especially if you don't have a DRO there. Maybe if you used hard stops...
- thinning down the inserts, using Z on the grinder, will also result in kind of uneven thicknesses.
All in all, I would like to see a runout test on the mill, I suspect that it might not live up to your usual standards.
Given that, it still would make more sense to me if you prepared a fly cutter with a round HSS bit (single lip cutter grinder would suffice to grind the tool) that would leave a great finish on PVC and allow for easy experimenting on the rake angle. You could, possibly, just use your shaper bit on a fly cutter and compare it to the insert-cutter just for completeness.
(or, most probably, you've already tried that...)
Many thanks
- Not sure why the x-axis of the pantograph would not be accurate? I always work to the same number on the dial, Same effect as running against a hard stop.
- Of course I ground them all to the same thickness - I have a 1micron reading digital indicator on the height adjustment of the surface grinder. I garantuee you that they are pretty close to the same thickness ;)
Indeed I checked the runout on the tip of the inserts, its about 2/100mm - Including the MT4/MT2 sleeve in the spindle and the MT2/16mm stub arbor holding the cutter.
thanks for the reply Stefan!
That came out very nice, just like a store bought. But now I don't know what to do with those 2 cords of PVC logs I just got!
When you surface grind turning the piece, aren't you afraid that dust will get between the work and the chuck?
That is an AWESOME build ! Very handy tool .. ENJOYED ..
Great work as always Stefan. As I am no pro machinist I had a question as to why the 30 degree angle is important? And maybe the 35 works but it did seem to bother you that no 30 degrees were available...
Because its called out on the drawing :)
I usually dont bother to discuss dimensions/tolerances of customer parts if there is nothing that is inpractical or impossible.
Interesting video, Stefan. Thanks.
If I read your drawing right and consider that you grind the carbide inserts to flat tops then the resulting rake angle is around zero. To my knowledge generally to machine plastics rather acutely positive rake angles are recommended. I don't know whether that is different for PVC but I assume not. Or did you neglect that fact for other reasons? Like you would have had to grind the inserts with a V-groove along lateral cutting lips but stop the groove before cutting open the tip. That would be a challenging and time consuming grind requiring small diameter diamond grinders. I would not want to try that either.
An option could have been to use a cutter with only two "wings" with one insert mounted alternatively to each side of the steel disc surfaces. One on the left and the other on the right side. Then it would have been easy to grind a quite positive rake angle on the sides of each insert. As a consequence of the more positive rake angle you could have used higher rpm without melting the PVC and probably gained an even better surface finish and shorter machining time. Such a cutter would even have been easier to make (in case of 2 wings): Only 2 wings instead of three. The insert seats could have been machined 15 deg off perpendicular to the steel disc's upper and lower surfaces which is more accessible than machining on the narrow surface of the "wings". You could easily increase the number of wings to higher even numbers (4 or 6 or more allowing higher feed rates) with alternating inserts on each side. And you probably could (or rather would have to) grind the inserts on your Deckel clone (or future T&C grinder) while they are mounted to the cutter using one of these narrow grinding wheels: www.banggood.com/180-Grit-100mm-Diamond-Grinding-Wheel-Carbide-Steel-Resin-Cutter-p-1001580.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN
Probably this design would also produce a fine finish when climb cutting so you could mill your grooves back and forth saving return travel time. What do you think about this "mind-CAD" alternative design?
Impressed by Your work!
Do You think using polished carbide positive rake Al type inserts could improve the finish in nylon? I get very good results in the lathe using VCGT and DCGT type inserts for most plastics. Only problem I noticed is som "grabbing" in flimsy parts due to to much rake. Perhaps VCGT would fit directly in Your pockets?
The videos demystifying the machining of insert holders are worth their weight (time?) in gold. Thanks for making this!
Thank you, and Thanks for watching!
Thank you for all the very fine videos, as an novice they are very helpful..
Love the videos. I have a question about your gas struts on your column, do these help with adjusting your z depth so that it doesnt jerk when you are lowering the head. Does it work as good as one would hope?. I did not see a video about this. Thanks for your time
I was playing with Hydrochloric (Muriatic) acid in my shop recently... and (Oh my God) when you said "it makes things rust", that was an understatement.
Dang. Hope it was not to bad
Very nice tool Stefan. Well done sir.
Another elegant design from Stefan, I enjoyed the build. Question: Would this design be any good for an edge chamfer tool? thanks, and cheers!
I think you could build a very decent chamfer mill that way, yes.
Stefan. Great video as is your norm. A quick question your vice stop the clamp that hold the rod is it split or just deformed with the clamp bolt ,it look a nice and tidy bit of kit
Great workmanship as usual. Why did you sell your shaper? I suppose it took up a lot of space in your limited space.
Thanks for posting. Great channel.
Because I dont use it very much anymore and it takes up space. I dont like to hang on to stuff that I dont use :)
Great job on the cutter. Looks more than professionally made to me.
Did you hone the inserts to get them sharp?
You could have hit that milled keyway with a file to get square corners!
Great build and nice saw cut technique with the endmill!
The radius is there to prevent a stress riser in the corners. Thats my story and I will stick to it :D
Good answer! I will allow it!
Very nice outcome on cutter production.
Das ist sehr gut! Thanks for explaining your nice-looking cutter.
awesome video Stefan! I get so pumped when you put out new material man. So question, or maybe
some hypothetical rhetoric, Being that you ground the inserts flat and removed the chip breaker the cutting edge are now more neutral than stock, and also the finish being 120? diamond wheel, now could you lap/hone the cutting edges/faces to a finer grade and would that improve the finish cut quality? From my experience PVC likes very sharp positive geometry. just spitballing... always looking for more knowledge. Cheers brother
You are right on all points :)
The top rake is neutral/0° - which works for plastic but is not 100% ideal, and the finish from the D126 wheel is not ideal. Lapping it would and will improve the finish. And I definetly will do that :)
Very cool, I would be really interested to see a side by side or even a quick update on how the changes affected the work piece!
very professional indeed,watch all of your videos.....i subscribe and like all of them,thank you for sharing.
Sorry if I missed this part but, did you grind 2.5 degrees of both sides or just offset the v groove in the holder in relation to the rotational centerline? Hope that made sense. Great video as always!
Yes, I ground the inserts on both sides.
Outstanding once again.
OMG Stefan.... It is professional made... :D
Top job Stefan, enjoyed the video.
That is pure art work!! Your rotary table is beautiful, what brand and size? Thank you!
Thanks Stefan. excellent as usual. How do you true up diamond wheels for flatness and concentricity on your surface grinder and d bit grinder?
thanks and regards John Spargo Cape Town
I dress with a piece of pure molybdenium followed by using a aluminium oxide sharpening stick to remove the excess resin bound. That works ok - I guess a brake-dresser would be better, but I dont have...
Stefan Gotteswinter thanus Sephan - do you hold these by hand? a demo would be awesome!
kind regards John Spargo in Cape Town
What A Build !!! Very Impressive !!! Big Thumbs Up !!!
Groovy video Stefan !
Excellent video Stefan. Full of usefull information. I especially like the pantograph tricks now that i got one myself. Actually I always liked your pa ntograph videos.
Is there a reason you did not angel the rotary able on the milling machine 30 degrees, cut one side of the pocket and then angle the table 60 degrees off the 30 and mill the other side of the pocket? I would assume that the cutter would be rotated on the table to do each side of the pocket prior to setting the second angle.
Dennis L.
Yes, that would also be possible - and a very good way to do. But I figured the pantograph to be faster and easier to setup.
Almost professional, are you kidding, looks better than most tools we buy. I was trying to figure out how you made the taper on the chuck side of the tool. I suppose there was enough room in there for the angled cutter or you may have turned the tool around for that cut? Anyway very well done. :-)
Oh, I just flipped it on the arbor :)
How did you know when you reached final dimension while cutting the pockets with the pantograph?
Beautiful work as always...
I checked with an insert in the pocket, looking down trough the hole for the screw with magnification, to see when the insert was in the right spot in relation to the threaded hole.
That was a awesome build
Thanks James!
You had to remind me of that shaper. Do you think you’re new tool mite make light cuts in aluminum?
I think it would take aluminium and steel without much problem.
Always appreciate your videos. Thanks
you did an amazing job looks great
Where did you get the spindle with the power drawbar / ATC that you have on your CNC router?
I talked about the spindle and the atc in the last video briefly - Both are from Mechatron in Germany.
Hallo
Danke für das tolle Video und das detaillierte zeigen.
MfG
Immer wieder gerne :)
It works like a charm but I do feel that carbide is perhaps overkill for PVC :P
Absolutely overkill! I was considering making the complete cutter out of toolsteel, harden and grind it - Or braze some HSS onto a cutter blank, and grind those in shape. But in the end this design was the easiest and fastest to build.
It's all about what you have available and the result looks absolutely amazing. I'm actually quite curious how it will perform on something like aluminium.
I might give it a shot :)
SO Awesome, as usual. WOW. Thanks for sharing!!!!!
Hey stefan, maybe it's a good idea to try lapping those inserts, or is it just not worth the time?
Definetly going to give it a shot, The finish off the diamond wheel is not brilliant. I need a finer wheel one day - Maybe a D40 or D20..
very professional
Thanks Emma!
Nice video, but a lot of static sounds in the background. Maybe that is fixable in new videos?
I tried to filter them out in post editing, but thats all the static from the fan in the VDF of my lathe, the powersupply for the electronic leadscrew, the dehumidifier and the shity microphone input on the Canon camera :(
I wish the audio was better, but I am at the moment stuck with the canon camera and the rhode microphone..
very good
Talent engineering.
Brilliant skill there Stefan as good as any shop bought, miss that shaper though.
Alan.
Thanks! The shaper was a very nice machine, indeed, but I just dont use it as much. I do not have the room or desire to keep stuff around that I dont use.
Good to see the new update video. Bill Zaremba from Instagram.👍
Hi Stefan.
Erstmal, super Video und Danke das du so viel Erfahrung und Videos mit uns teilst. Da ich momentan dran bin meine "alte" Fräßmaschine zu verkaufen, habe ich noch das ganze spannzubehör davon übrig. Es handelt sich dabei um 12mm T-Nuten Steine. Nun meine Frage: Da ich mir auch eine Optimum MB4 kaufen will, kann man die Nutensteine auch dort weiter verwenden oder sollte man neue 14mm Nutensteine dazukaufen?? Danke schon mal im Vorraus😁😁
12er Nutensteine in 14er Nut ist Murks, da versaust du dir auf Dauer die Nuten. Empfehle dringend passende Nutensteine - Die Stehbolzen, Pratzen und so weiter kannst du ja weiterverwenden.
Stefan Gotteswinter Danke für die Schnelle Antwort. Dann werden die 12mm Nutensteine mit der "alten" Maschine mitverkauft. Sind ja nicht soo teuer die neuen Pratzen😅😅. Danke für deine Hilfe😁😁👍👍