nice! when i do engraved dials, to blacken the lines & numbers, i machine positive lines & numbers out of black acetal and bond them in one by one. you should really try it next time.
Is there a way to put a hundred thumbs up at once? ;) Thank you. Beautiful dial. I love how engraved in "just a piece of tool steel " which is a beauty. And the paper trick is a great info! Thank you again.
You can fill the graduations by rubbing or melting wax crayons into them. You could make multicoloured lines by doing using different colours. You can see it used here ruclips.net/video/yZxjJ2gKLrc/видео.html You can also use Nail Polish as filler material for engravings.
Very professional looking results! That was quite some setup to hold the part at the proper angle. I have been toying with the idea of building a massive rotary adjustable angle table for use on the HBM to be able to easily do odd angles and multiple operations in one setup just by rotating or changing the parts axis.
Harold Hall designed a "Lining Tool" in his workshop practice series #37. It is even in metric dimensions!!! I was wondering if you might have an interest in making one of these as a video. If you plan on needing more dials this might be a solution. Would love to see your ingenuity adapted to this tool especially if you use it on your rotary table or dividing head.
Another fabulous tutorial on how to do things most people would never try. Your video's always give me ideas that I try to replicate whilst working in my modest shop. You are an inspiration to the aspiring machinist. Thanks for sharing Stefan. regards from the UK
I remember you saying "I'm not a tool maker"... yeah yeah... I am just a monkey that stumbled upon electricity... but that enabled me to watch your videos... now I might evolve! ;) Please do not stop! ;)
Cheers Stefan, I always look forward to watching your work. I received my Mechanical and Metal Trades Handbook this morning after noticing that it had details for calculating differential indexing on the opposite page to where you were working from. Unfortunately, the new English editions must be edited or compiled differently to the edition you have as this information was not contained within the book. The book is still full of good stuff and won't be wasted but I thought the omissions might be useful to others.
joshua43214 Thanks Joshua. Apologies if my comment wasn't clear. I noticed some info that took my fancy on the opposite page to where Stefan was working and thought I would buy the book based on that, nothing to do with what he was working on. I have a couple of copies of Machineries Handbook, but again, thanks for the tip.
This was great for me to see, and all of your numbers(excepting the metrics) were very familiar to me since I've been working on making some new jumbo lathe dials with 125 divisions. I found it odd that there are no 25 hole patterns on most dividing head hole-plates, since 125 and 250 are both multiples of 8tpi leadscrews. Anyway, thanks for the boost to my confidence in tackling this project and happy milling. Aloha...Chuck
I know very little about these things but I consider that art, really nice. If I looked at the dial I would never imagine how much technology and engineering was used to produce it, truly amazing
Great video Stefan, thanks for sharing! I love the chamfers on your zero plate, did you do them on your chamfer machine for a part so small? The only problem I have with your video is seeing the runout in your power feed engagement knob is going to keep me awake at night.
Yes, I do pretty much all chamfering on that machine. Sometimes I use a pushblock if my fingers get a bit close, but generaly that machine is very safe :) I agree on the knob, I think I have to turn my own...
(360 / 125) * (90 / 360) ? I think you could have skipped an intermediate result. It's not an issue here as the answer was exactly 2.88, but if it had been a longer number? 90 / 125 is the answer.
Hallo Stefan . i am very interested with the book you are holding there.looks extremely interesting for me but 'and i couldn't understand the name from this movie. could you maybe write it ? Thank you
Why not use the proper engravers wax, it softens with White Spirit, rub into the grooves, let it dry, remove the surplus with a cloth tightly over your finger, moistened with White Spirit. Been doing it that way for Years.
Why do i get the feeling Stephan is rubbing our noses into the fact that all the good stuff are from Germany and that WE normal plebs don't have immidiate access to it??
Beautiful job Stefan! That looks like a design that could be adapted to a mill drill power feed for X axis . I don't think the engraving on half the stuff you buy nowadays is half as nice as that wheel! Thanks.
I love your videos, you're a very talented machinist and the creativity shows through in your work. My question is though what is that beginning music?
"When Johnny Comes Marching Home Again" is an old song. It was written during the American Civil War. We sang it when I was in elementary school almost 100 years later. The lyrics still come to mind when I hear the music. Hurrah! Hurrah! : )
I sold my engraver a few years ago; it was ancient, but functional and complete. And now I need to make new dials for my lathe, as I'm replacing all of the imperial leadscrews with metric!
I have a question doesn't your milling machines head tilt I believe it would have been easer to set up with the work piece bolted down flat against the table and move the head to the right angle.
Hello Stefan I have a similar mill to you I want to put a wiper motor on the z axis but I am lost for ideas on how to do this can you help my with this. Thanks
I use the blue method and 4000 grit wet paper. I really like this quick method as well for engravings that are not handled much. Never saw it done this way, but it is pretty cool for this type of use I think . Thanks Stefan
Another option that I'm sure you saw, was the black wax shellac used by Chris (Clickspring) for the engraving on a clock face. The cold blue would leave the lines as grooves, so for some things that might be an advantage.
Hey Stefan, Your work is absolutely impeccable! I have a couple restorations projects in which I'd like to make larger dials for, but yours is the first one I've seen using the engraver to mark the lines. Absolutely professional in every way! Now where can I get an engraver? Damn, I need more tools to make more tools...Will it ever end? Happy New Year Stefan. Enjoyed this one big time!!!! Razor!
Mr Stefan,you are very meticulous in intricate setup and the work itself.Nice video and narration as always.A few questions. a)What trade/field are you in as day job? Just curious.That's all. Thank you
There is a much easier way to determine the index hole disk.Youre device is a 1:90 version, so with 125 devices you take 90/125, reduce this to 18/25 and there you are.You also can have 36/50 if you only have a plate with 50 holesIf for example you want 50 device, makes 90/50 = 1 + 40/50 . So 1 full revolution, and 40 distances on a 50 hole plate,or 1 full revolution an 20 distances on a 25 hole plate.You don't need to calculate the angle.
Great job Stefan. Quite a pleasure to see someone working "manually", precisely, with forethought and accuracy in mind. In this age of "the CAM made me do it", it is refreshing. That book "Tabellenbuch Metall" 16:48 brought back some memories. I worked as a toolmaker in 1990 outside Nurnberg and bought a copy in German. Quite silly that I never thought to look later for an english copy, it is an excellent reference.
I like that rubber O ring / setscrew friction idea. Just curious, did you go back & validate your new dial increment movement to your quill plunger test indicator displacement? I have a similar RF-45 & its been a standing joke for many years on these mills that the Z rotation crank is wonderful random number generator, but not very indicative of actual depth. It could be how they tried configuring to inch measuring, maybe your metric machine mitigates this issue. Anyway give it a check.
Thanks for the super trick Stefan ! I wanted to blacken my Dial engraving and didn't find a proper cleaning technic before seing this video. Also I wanted to "clear-Laque" the Dial, but you explained that it's unecessary. My engraving are pretty deep, hence I will use black epoxy as you suggested. François
nice job an interesting video .as you use milling machine as for shaping I think you could change the head angle instead of using moveable table angle I hope you catch the point.
How do you carry the tilting head to from the mill to the engraver for the numbers? It's harder to unbolt and lift than the adjustable angle plate.... Otherwise you doubtless could. Which is more painful, using the plate, or re-tramming the head to SG precision after the job?
As usual, an excellent video Stefan...! Years ago I had the chance to buy a pantograph from a Jeweler here in Vancouver. I have regretted it ever since... :-( Cheers and thanks, Daniel.
Nicely done, always. 1) When grinding you tool or boring bar tools in your Deckel knock-off why not grind a flat or whistle stop at 90 degreed to orient the cutting edges to the center line of the bar. Just a thought. 2) For shaping with the spindle what about a means of using the 16mm bore for the depth stop or a similar arrangement. I'm thinking it would be possible to more easily shape internal or external gears/splines on the mill.
great videos, love a few of you guys, and starting lil metal shop in my shop, hahaha, well this old Tony named you, another admirer, in " A Brief Chat about Carbide Tooling "..... keep up the videos man, great work
As always extremely well done and you never fail to impress. It was very light duty cutting so it didn't need much for rigidity, your methods obviously worked just fine., But you probably need a proper dividing head that can rotate the head Stefan. A little easier and faster to set up and use. But you'd already know that better than I do. It would need to be suitably reworked so it's Stefanized of course. A lot of hours and craftsmanship into the whole power Z axis build and the finished results certainly show it. First class work imo. That power feed will sure pay for all the time invested every time it's used. Oil blackening of the dial and polishing off everything but what's in the engraving would also work as one more method to color the divisions and numbers. Clever trick with the paper, I'll need to remember that one.
Excellent, as always, Stefan! Have you tried artist's workable fixative to spray over the ink? It might work. (I have some somewhere. If I can find it I'll give it a test and report back.) Your videos are very inspiring, especially on a grey winter day. : )
Very nice job Stefan special your solution with th e rubber tap to position the dial. Where can i find the title and or ISBN number of your book you using ?
Takes me back to my original job I trained for....many years as a commercial engraver, used to graduate and engrave these types of dials every day. Shouldn't have needed to file anything if your cutter was sharpened correctly
Stefan, in this video or some other one you refer to using your Deckel copy mill at your main workplace. I have recently acquired a Deckel copy mill but unfortunately, some of the accessories I was interested in are simply not available. I believe there is one option to mirror copy items, ie turning a right handed part into a left handed copy. I am left handed and for instance want to make a left handed copy of my right handed engineers offset vice. Do you have such an accessory on your work Deckel and if so, I would love to receive details if any are available.
verry impressed with youre skills and the way you solve things i'm not sure i be able to work that precise without ending up frotting at the mouth and trowing things against the wall i might do things a little different like using a cnc router and a 4th axis to carve both the lines and the numbers on the dial , doing it this way relies more on my cad skills than my motor skills (precision) though i doubt it will be as exact like the way you do things my vision isnt sharp enough to read dials while operating the lathe or mill anyway and would use DRO's before relying on reading round dials from 10 cm away with a magnifying glass while the machine is running (BAD things happen when you get near rotating and flying stuff )
I just love the attention to detail. e.g. Clean the file after each stroke. Put cloth under the lathe. Clean the grinding holder before inserting and after removing the sharpy ... Just perfect
nice! when i do engraved dials, to blacken the lines & numbers, i machine positive lines & numbers out of black acetal and bond them in one by one. you should really try it next time.
Doesnt sound very complicated at all :D
Stefan Gotteswinter if you'd rather not deal with adhesives you could simply press fit them too.
I thought of friction welding them ;)
Derek Richline it does, I've tried it. It's a great trick for fixing broken 3D prints
Ebay
Dialed me in !
Who said Germans don't have a sense of humour ?
Great (second class...lol) build/video
I know! Is he trying to embarrass me into even deeper hiding? LOL!
I like the flashback sequence, Tony/10 !
Is there a way to put a hundred thumbs up at once? ;)
Thank you.
Beautiful dial. I love how engraved in "just a piece of tool steel " which is a beauty.
And the paper trick is a great info!
Thank you again.
👍100×😉😊
You can fill the graduations by rubbing or melting wax crayons into them. You could make multicoloured lines by doing using different colours. You can see it used here ruclips.net/video/yZxjJ2gKLrc/видео.html
You can also use Nail Polish as filler material for engravings.
Very professional looking results! That was quite some setup to hold the part at the proper angle. I have been toying with the idea of building a massive rotary adjustable angle table for use on the HBM to be able to easily do odd angles and multiple operations in one setup just by rotating or changing the parts axis.
The zero marker line is called the fiducial . sounds like fi dew shal
superb craftsmanship, also loved the video editing. Bravo.
Harold Hall designed a "Lining Tool" in his workshop practice series #37. It is even in metric dimensions!!! I was wondering if you might have an interest in making one of these as a video. If you plan on needing more dials this might be a solution. Would love to see your ingenuity adapted to this tool especially if you use it on your rotary table or dividing head.
Brilliant work :-) Just one thing though, couldn't you have used an index plate with twelve and a half holes ? :-))))
Been there, done that ;)
Also called: Indexing failure...
The humour and sarcasm in this video is brilliant. That setup for shaping was excellent
Dr Frankenstein 😉
Another fabulous tutorial on how to do things most people would never try. Your video's always give me ideas that I try to replicate whilst working in my modest shop. You are an inspiration to the aspiring machinist. Thanks for sharing Stefan. regards from the UK
"I wouldn't be who I am if I hadn't just made my own index plate" hahaha amazing
I thought I would be safe on this video, but now I have to buy a lathe file!
and an emery cloth holder!
...and a sheet of copy paper!
Dialed in on something like 37 other tricks besides dial engraving, thank you!
What, no vernier scale?
Just joking, nice job as usual.
I'm starting to like that crappy Chinese mill, you really know how to polish a turd...
You can't polish a turd but you can roll it in glitter ;-)
Stefan - beautifully done - yet again the Gotteswinter precision and attention to detail.
Nice work sir. :)
I remember you saying "I'm not a tool maker"... yeah yeah... I am just a monkey that stumbled upon electricity... but that enabled me to watch your videos... now I might evolve! ;) Please do not stop! ;)
Nice video, I liked the use of the cut off o-ring and the grub screw.
Why not just do 90/125 = 18/25, no need for decimals.
Cheers Stefan, I always look forward to watching your work. I received my Mechanical and Metal Trades Handbook this morning after noticing that it had details for calculating differential indexing on the opposite page to where you were working from. Unfortunately, the new English editions must be edited or compiled differently to the edition you have as this information was not contained within the book. The book is still full of good stuff and won't be wasted but I thought the omissions might be useful to others.
joshua43214 Thanks Joshua. Apologies if my comment wasn't clear. I noticed some info that took my fancy on the opposite page to where Stefan was working and thought I would buy the book based on that, nothing to do with what he was working on. I have a couple of copies of Machineries Handbook, but again, thanks for the tip.
This was great for me to see, and all of your numbers(excepting the metrics) were very familiar to me since I've been working on making some new jumbo lathe dials with 125 divisions. I found it odd that there are no 25 hole patterns on most dividing head hole-plates, since 125 and 250 are both multiples of 8tpi leadscrews. Anyway, thanks for the boost to my confidence in tackling this project and happy milling. Aloha...Chuck
I know very little about these things but I consider that art, really nice. If I looked at the dial I would never imagine how much technology and engineering was used to produce it, truly amazing
Great video Stefan, thanks for sharing! I love the chamfers on your zero plate, did you do them on your chamfer machine for a part so small? The only problem I have with your video is seeing the runout in your power feed engagement knob is going to keep me awake at night.
Yes, I do pretty much all chamfering on that machine. Sometimes I use a pushblock if my fingers get a bit close, but generaly that machine is very safe :)
I agree on the knob, I think I have to turn my own...
very talented you are !
(360 / 125) * (90 / 360) ? I think you could have skipped an intermediate result. It's not an issue here as the answer was exactly 2.88, but if it had been a longer number?
90 / 125 is the answer.
Danke, wieder eine Serie neuer, cooler Tricks!
Die Aufspannung rockt natürlich.
Stefan! Your skills and talents are boundless and truly a pleasure to watch and learn from! Thank you!
Great work as usual Stefan. Typical of your usual second class work ;-)
Liked the clip from your youth.
Stefan, schön gebaut und gut erklärt! *thumps up*
Why should i go out in the machineshop, when there is news from Stefan "the God" Gotteswinter? Loved it! Ty for showing.
Hallo Stefan . i am very interested with the book you are holding there.looks extremely interesting for me but 'and i couldn't understand the name from this movie.
could you maybe write it ?
Thank you
This video is packed full of brilliance!
Yes it is.
I concur.
Why not use the proper engravers wax, it softens with White Spirit, rub into the grooves, let it dry, remove the surplus with a cloth tightly over your finger, moistened with White Spirit. Been doing it that way for Years.
I love that holder for emery cloth! Why do the Germans get all the cool stuff?
They make it.
Magic, pure machinist magic!
Why do i get the feeling Stephan is rubbing our noses into the fact that all the good stuff are from Germany and that WE normal plebs don't have immidiate access to it??
Thats not my intend - Otherwise I would not have tons of videos showing and working on cheap import tools/tooling.
No sweat dude. I'm just messing with you.
"just to get rid of any schmutz on there"... Stefan du begeisterst mich immer wieder, Daumen hoch für diese tolle Arbeit! :D 👍
He sounded like my oma/grandma when he said it
I've only got one comment for you, using your own words: Looks professional! ;)
I would say that is a first class job and I especially liked the sepia-flashback. Thank You
Stefan, is there a way to flatten an abused diamond wheel for the single lip grinder? (Deckel SO clone) Thank you for your answer! Best regards, Job
You make me want to be a better (hobby) machinist. Thank you for showing us how you work.
Beautiful job Stefan! That looks like a design that could be adapted to a mill drill power feed for X axis .
I don't think the engraving on half the stuff you buy nowadays is half as nice as that wheel! Thanks.
I have success using paint pens to coloring engraving and stamped letters. The trick is to gently wipe it off before the paint dries completely.
I love your videos, you're a very talented machinist and the creativity shows through in your work. My question is though what is that beginning music?
That "When Jonny comes marching home" otherwise known "The ants are marching", otherwise known as "THAT song from the movie Die hard 3 :)
"When Johnny Comes Marching Home Again" is an old song. It was written during the American Civil War. We sang it when I was in elementary school almost 100 years later. The lyrics still come to mind when I hear the music. Hurrah! Hurrah! : )
Very Nice . The Engraving Machine Is Way Cool ,Best Regards S. L. Wagar
I sold my engraver a few years ago; it was ancient, but functional and complete. And now I need to make new dials for my lathe, as I'm replacing all of the imperial leadscrews with metric!
cant help but think black nail-polish would work well for blacking engravings 🤔🤔
how do you 'write' the numbers ...?? i presume that's NOT 'freehand'???
What size rotary table did you use? I ask because I have the same milling machine arriving this week and want to buy some bits for it. Great video
I use paint crayons meant for engraving. They work pretty well.
Master RUclips machinist.
Hervorragendes technisches Englisch! - Tolles Video!
This is what we in America call " A real Rube Goldberg. "
I was thinking the same thing.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rube_Goldberg
for those who are not murricans...
Exactly what I was thinking when I saw the initial setup! Turned out beautifully though.
I have a question doesn't your milling machines head tilt I believe it would have been easer to set up with the work piece bolted down flat against the table and move the head to the right angle.
Hello Stefan I have a similar mill to you I want to put a wiper motor on the z axis but I am lost for ideas on how to do this can you help my with this. Thanks
Could Cold Blue be used on the dial and polised off to leave the index markings blue ?
Good question - Should work very well! I will give that a try :)
I use the blue method and 4000 grit wet paper. I really like this quick method as well for engravings that are not handled much. Never saw it done this way, but it is pretty cool for this type of use I think . Thanks Stefan
Glad to be of help :)
Another option that I'm sure you saw, was the black wax shellac used by Chris (Clickspring) for the engraving on a clock face. The cold blue would leave the lines as grooves, so for some things that might be an advantage.
Will a paint-pen work?
Very nice work.
Looks wonderful. thank you for sharing.
Hey Stefan, Your work is absolutely impeccable! I have a couple restorations projects in which I'd like to make larger dials for, but yours is the first one I've seen using the engraver to mark the lines. Absolutely professional in every way! Now where can I get an engraver? Damn, I need more tools to make more tools...Will it ever end? Happy New Year Stefan. Enjoyed this one big time!!!! Razor!
Really slick dial, it came out very nice
Finalement, une bonne façon de diviser une roue à la fraiseuse. Merci encore
Ein begabter Maschinist. Nur mit dem Englischen hapert es, die Aussprache is to run away. Srih Dschoh Dschuck... :D
Mr Stefan,you are very meticulous in intricate setup and the work itself.Nice video and narration as always.A few questions.
a)What trade/field are you in as day job? Just curious.That's all.
Thank you
Very interesting! I am thinking of making a dial or two and your video made
it all look like something I could do. Thank you.
Even if I fail sometimes at it, I try do show approachable methos of doing things - Thank you!
There is a much easier way to determine the index hole disk.Youre device is a 1:90 version, so with 125 devices you take 90/125, reduce this to 18/25 and there you are.You also can have 36/50 if you only have a plate with 50 holesIf for example you want 50 device, makes 90/50 = 1 + 40/50 . So 1 full revolution, and 40 distances on a 50 hole plate,or 1 full revolution an 20 distances on a 25 hole plate.You don't need to calculate the angle.
My device tool has a rate of 1:40. So if I would make the 125 devices, makes 40/125 = 8/25So I take 8 distances on a disk of 25 holes. Easy like that
Super bardzo mi się to podoba sam mam podobną wiertarkofrezarkę. Tyle że ja jeszcze jej nie modyfikowałem.👍👍👍
Beautiful Job Stefan, take an orange out of the bag?,
Edmund..........Alberta,
1st class job Stefan Not second man ! Great share .. Thumbs up
Great job Stefan. Quite a pleasure to see someone working "manually", precisely, with forethought and accuracy in mind.
In this age of "the CAM made me do it", it is refreshing.
That book "Tabellenbuch Metall" 16:48 brought back some memories. I worked as a toolmaker in 1990 outside Nurnberg and bought a copy in German. Quite silly that I never thought to look later for an english copy, it is an excellent reference.
I like that rubber O ring / setscrew friction idea. Just curious, did you go back & validate your new dial increment movement to your quill plunger test indicator displacement? I have a similar RF-45 & its been a standing joke for many years on these mills that the Z rotation crank is wonderful random number generator, but not very indicative of actual depth. It could be how they tried configuring to inch measuring, maybe your metric machine mitigates this issue. Anyway give it a check.
Very nice work Stefan
Thanks for the super trick Stefan ! I wanted to blacken my Dial engraving and didn't find a proper cleaning technic before seing this video. Also I wanted to "clear-Laque" the Dial, but you explained that it's unecessary. My engraving are pretty deep, hence I will use black epoxy as you suggested. François
nice job an interesting video .as you use milling machine as for shaping I think you could change the head angle instead of using moveable table angle I hope you catch the point.
How do you carry the tilting head to from the mill to the engraver for the numbers? It's harder to unbolt and lift than the adjustable angle plate.... Otherwise you doubtless could. Which is more painful, using the plate, or re-tramming the head to SG precision after the job?
As usual, an excellent video Stefan...! Years ago I had the chance to buy a pantograph from a Jeweler here in Vancouver. I have regretted it ever since... :-( Cheers and thanks, Daniel.
Well done. Thanks for the video.
Love your angle setup system for the rotary table. Well thought out. But of course, its you :-)
Nicely done, always. 1) When grinding you tool or boring bar tools in your Deckel knock-off why not grind a flat or whistle stop at 90 degreed to orient the cutting edges to the center line of the bar. Just a thought. 2) For shaping with the spindle what about a means of using the 16mm bore for the depth stop or a similar arrangement. I'm thinking it would be possible to more easily shape internal or external gears/splines on the mill.
great videos, love a few of you guys, and starting lil metal shop in my shop, hahaha, well this old Tony named you, another admirer, in " A Brief Chat about Carbide Tooling "..... keep up the videos man, great work
Fyi, black caulking actually works really well.
As always extremely well done and you never fail to impress. It was very light duty cutting so it didn't need much for rigidity, your methods obviously worked just fine., But you probably need a proper dividing head that can rotate the head Stefan. A little easier and faster to set up and use. But you'd already know that better than I do. It would need to be suitably reworked so it's Stefanized of course. A lot of hours and craftsmanship into the whole power Z axis build and the finished results certainly show it. First class work imo. That power feed will sure pay for all the time invested every time it's used. Oil blackening of the dial and polishing off everything but what's in the engraving would also work as one more method to color the divisions and numbers. Clever trick with the paper, I'll need to remember that one.
Hat's off for you sir, awesome craftsmanship and i like the way you handle common machining problems...simple and effective!
thanks frist class !!!!!
Good stuff. Thank you.
Excellent, as always, Stefan! Have you tried artist's workable fixative to spray over the ink? It might work. (I have some somewhere. If I can find it I'll give it a test and report back.)
Your videos are very inspiring, especially on a grey winter day. : )
What video did you show how to machine the 25 hole indexing plate? I am in the same boat.
Very nice job Stefan special your solution with th e rubber tap to position the dial.
Where can i find the title and or ISBN number of your book you using ?
Old question, but it looks like the 2002 edition of Tabellenbuch Metall (ISBN 10: 3808517220).
I only gave the video a like because of that catch.
Takes me back to my original job I trained for....many years as a commercial engraver, used to graduate and engrave these types of dials every day. Shouldn't have needed to file anything if your cutter was sharpened correctly
Top notch video. I bought the "Mechanical and Metal Trades Handbook" as it seems quite useable.
That looks REALLY sharp! It looks really professional too. How often to people ask where you buy things like this?
Great video Thanks Stefan
Stefan, in this video or some other one you refer to using your Deckel copy mill at your main workplace. I have recently acquired a Deckel copy mill but unfortunately, some of the accessories I was interested in are simply not available. I believe there is one option to mirror copy items, ie turning a right handed part into a left handed copy. I am left handed and for instance want to make a left handed copy of my right handed engineers offset vice. Do you have such an accessory on your work Deckel and if so, I would love to receive details if any are available.
Lovely. just lovely.
verry impressed with youre skills and the way you solve things
i'm not sure i be able to work that precise without ending up frotting at the mouth and trowing things against the wall
i might do things a little different like using a cnc router and a 4th axis to carve both the lines and the numbers on the dial , doing it this way relies more on my cad skills than my motor skills (precision) though i doubt it will be as exact like the way you do things
my vision isnt sharp enough to read dials while operating the lathe or mill anyway and would use DRO's before relying on reading round dials from 10 cm away with a magnifying glass while the machine is running (BAD things happen when you get near rotating and flying stuff )
I just love the attention to detail. e.g. Clean the file after each stroke. Put cloth under the lathe. Clean the grinding holder before inserting and after removing the sharpy ...
Just perfect
The dial looked more like the combination dial on an expensive safe! Nice job. Thank you for sharing.
Looks great: nicely done.
It would be nice if you had a way to index your lathe and do that