I wanted to make a dedicaded chuck for my lathe to turn excentric parts. It doubles also as a very small face plate. Website: gtwr.de Instagram: / stefan_gtwr
Excellent, love the chuck. Subscribed. Does your shaper cut on the return stroke? I've never seen that.. at least not on purpose. Better than having hot chips straight down one's shirt!
+Stefan Gotteswinter interesting.. do you have additional switch/lever to tell the shaper which way its cutting? it looks like the cut stroke is slower (as it should be), but how does the machine know which clapper box you have installed? that's not one of those new programmable CNC shapers is it? :) by the way, i know this is the wrong place, but I'm still laughing at your 20k rpm tool holder.
+metalhead2508 You have to tell the machine if you want to cut on pull or push - The return motion of the shaper ram is faster because of the motion of the crank/yoke in the machine.
You could reverse a three phase motor by switching two phases, but some single phase motors can be electrically reversed as well by changing the polarity of the second coil and the operation capacitor (plus starter capacitor). Check out this link: woodgears.ca/motors/reversing.html That said, as long as the mechanical side of things can live with that. What you should check is if the fan on the end of the motor will still work as desired if run in reverse and if insecure, contact your local electrician. As far as i understood, those shapers usually have a whitworth quick return mechanism, which would run similar in CCW as in CW, besides the intended effect of having the quick return on the other stroke. Any other function like automatic lubrication and power feed direction would need to be taken care of and might be harder to overcome. So i am curious how Stefan gets it working just by reversing the motor. Either the power feed is independent of the direction (seems to be Geneva-like?) or it can be reversed as well. It is an interesting machine...
I added some 10mm threaded holes to the edge of the face of my offset chuck build. I use them tho mount some chunky tungsten weights on the opposite side as my offset. It makes my lathe run much happier when turning offset parts. I was pretty limited as far as top speed goes because of vibration, and the weights cured it.
Hi Stefan We may not need to build one of these but watching all the various steps in constructing one teaches us numerous ways to go about doing lay out work, machining etc which is a real eye opener for us. Thanks again for the splendid Video. All the best aRM
Very nice fixture. One thought I had was that it might be worth making a few flat straps of different thickness with holes matching the clamp strap. With longer screws, these could be used to add counterweight for balance if you are turning something very eccentric ...
Hi Stefan, great work as usual :-) I thought perhaps an engraved scale across the T slot could be useful in coarse alignment, combine this with another T nut that could be clamped at the outer end of the T slot and a threaded rod from this T nut to the clamping T nut could provide a fine adjustment. The additional T nut could also help (in a small way) to offset the offset weight of the v-block. just a thought!
Beautiful engineering and machining as always Stefan. I would have loved to see the vee block being machined completely. There could have been a lot more lessons learned from watching the entire process. Thanks
I liked the idea of using something like this for grinding. I have a magnetic chuck (faceplate) for my lathes, which I usually put a three jaw chuck on for grinding (so I can bump it around until it's dead true), but I have a "Keats" style V angle plate which I could use instead and avoid getting abrasive dust in the chuck - and if need by I could scrape the mounting surface dead square with the flats of the V to give better perpendicularity to the face of the chuck, which is dusted dead square to the axis with the toolpost grinder for really fussy work.
Love that you use the shaper so much. That was always my favorite piece of machinery to use, although it seems to have fallen out of favor in the machine shop.
nice work, I can think of so many uses for that chuck....really respect your thought process when designing your parts or tool. Your explanations for why and how, always have something I haven't thought of in them....very well made and the show was great, thanks.....
If you make the key into a t nut and then thread a hole in both ends you can use threaded rod and nuts and washers on each side to adjust the throw and it will help keep the position if the t nut should loosen. I love your videos and ideas and I hope to have a shaper someday.
Once again I miss my old shaper when I see yours! Notice yours was cutting on the ''pull'' - mine I always cut on a 'push' stroke. Lovely piece of work Stefan - as usual, your excellent precision.
+Glenn Felpel I think the setup stuff is even more interesting than the actual chip making. Everybody can shove an endmill into a piece of steel - But proper setup sets the beginner apart from the more experienced machinists :)
+Glenn Felpel Yes Stefan....That is exactly what I was thinking. But, about shoving an endmill into the steel, I did not know you could mill pre-hardened steel. You mentioned you were using a carbide cutter. However, the shaper tool seemed to be a normal HSS cutter. The machining seemed almost normal. And truly you are an experienced machinist, it shows. Thanks again for the time you spend making the videos and all.
nice work Stefan ! if you had an old 3 or 4 jaw chuck that fits your lathe you could strip it down and do something similar by using the slots for the jaws or make an angle plate that replaces 1 jaw then you could use the screw or scroll to adjust the offset .
Stefan, nice project and presentation. I love to make a copy for myself. Previously I add a shim of specific thickness to one of three jaws. Not quite straight forward but get the job done.
For a while, when i didn't have a height gauge i also used the blocks + scriber method. To make my life easier and because all of my blocks are of equal width (something not all height blocks share, i know) i made a steel sleeve that went over the scriber + block. Simple design that snugged over the block with the help of two thumb screws over a strip of copper (took inspiration from the adjusting screws on calipers). It worked really nice since i only had to concern myself with keeping the block down not the scriber too, which can get a bit annoying when doing more complicated parts or even heights that require stacking blocks.
18:30 a chevron-shaped strap clamp that can be used in two orientations, reaching into the V for small parts, or flipped around for larger diameters :) 20:30 OH YES What yould be added to this build? Maybe an interrupted groove on the bottom of the T nut and two dowel pins as end stops so the sliding part is captive and doesn't fly off when the screw should come loose.
OXTOOLS did a while ago a video about how to fit weights on the chuck for this type of application to avoid imbalance while rotating at high speed. I am mentioning that for your own safety Stefan. I hope it helps. Your videos are great!
That first harmonic area of speed is usually referred to as the first critical if it is due to resonance which can be confirmed by a phase shift, no worries though. Want to make that vibration go away? if so use a metal container about the same size as the motor, (old paint can maybe) and fill it about 2/3 full of sand and strap it to the motor so that the motor can still cool itself. Vibrations gone. Thanks Stefan.
Even thought about adding lead weights to lathe chassis to add more mass. Using an off center chuck on a light lathe may need the additional mass. Plus the lead could be moved around. Might help.
I think you’re ready to make an eccentric for your steam engine 😁. For safety I’d add a grub screw that stands proud at the bottom of the T slot ens so the sled can never fling out.
Stefan, surprise you didnt add a fine adjustment screw on the slide similar to a boring head? Better than banging it in to spec I would think! Great design, going to mak ax smaller on for my lathe. Always good discussions and demos Stefan Steven Columbus Michigan
Really Beautiful Job Well Done Bro... I an a new beginer and I dont have a 4 jaw so until One day I have enough Time :) to get me one your design is really, really good for me. Thank you again for sharing. Have a great time and keep up the GOOD WORK :)
Does your shaper have the same operating force in both directions? I can imagine if you were to pull-cut on a machine with a scotch yoke, you would want to reverse the motor rotation. That would give the mechanical advantage of the drive system.
Gorgeous work Stefan. I was thinking it would be possible to add another T-nut which would anchor a transverse nut that would allow you to use a threaded piece to adjust the eccentricity. Once it was set you could remove it for machining. Probably not really necessary as tapping works pretty well. Did you cut the T slot on the mill or in your shaper? The chuck part is so smoothly machined it looks surface ground. I would have thought that you would need to use tungsten tooling to cut that hardened steel. It seemed to cut very well with HSS though. I'm going to see if I can buy some of that steel. It looks like great stuff.
@@StefanGotteswinter I'm sure you've taken it in to account :) I've assembled my second proper machining project yesterday, a little stirling engine. I've uploaded a short clip to my youtube page.
Maybe you could turn a really really long finger to switch the lathe on when testing. Or maybe a steel face hat. Great stuff Stefan. I rewatch your vids every winter and I think I learn more each time. Maybe it's dementia. Now, where did I put my keyboard?
That electronic dial should wait for half-a-second after you release the button before zeroing. The way it's designed, you could never get a true zero because your finger is touching it when it zeros.
Not only precise and useful, but a beautiful piece of gear. When I get a lathe, the first thing I'll do will be to throw away the chuck (not much of a gesture, as it will surely be an El Cheapo brand, but still...). OK, that's it for the praise part. Now for the criticisms: "vice" is pronounced as if it was written "weiss" and read in German. A vice, an edelweiss, same thing.
One of the parts I need to produce in my work are switch panels. These are generally make from acrylic .125" thick some time 20" in length. I could use a magnetic chuck with some sacrificial piece beneath and some steel washers on top. Or I also considered a vacuum chuck. The positive are that it could be made in modules to get the 20" length which is costly in a magnetic chuck and the base could be built in the shop. The negatives are the clutter and cost of a vacuum pump and the sacrificial under piece would need to permit vacuum to the part being machined.Do you have any experience with this?
very useful idea, well made as always. I admire your dedication. I wonder where did you perfect your English, I am living in Canada for 60 years still my English and speak ability is far below your level. Keep up those excellent jobs. Old Bob
As soon as you picked up the long chips the first time I thought of a project from 6 months ago. Jesus those little chips hurt, and they keep showing up.☺
A fine video.I must say I would like to have seen you center the slot.There are several ways,that much I know,I've seen several of your fine videos and have learned a lot,but I would have liked to have seen the way a craftsman does it to precision
Wondering, as many may, if Stefan thinks my idea of using the whole table of that machine... by semi-permanently mounting a spindexing rotary table to one end, the vice at the other, or ahem, vice versa, with perhaps a bit of room left for a third tombstone or TRUNNION axis w/Arduino NC ??
That is quite interesting. I found this searching for examples of a kit made by Hemingway Kits but that is a very interesting idea. Out of interest what is this magic tool steel that is pre hardened?
Why would you not make the clamp strap the same as the other side you seem to put a lot of effort into aperiance. Don't get me wrong I agree with your mind set. And it makes me think it will be very simple to make cam lock bolts witch I'm a big fan of all ready
+plata salud Nope, I got those from...I dont know, somewhere :D But I am in the process of making a set of parallels that are hardened and very precise but dont require a surface grinder :)
What brand oil comes in that can? I have seen a lot of you tubers use it but I am new to this and am not familiar. Any help would be great. Thanks, Eric
Hey Stefan, thank you for your highly educational videos. What colour did you use when you restored your equipment. In some lighting (colour balance) it looks greed and at other times it look brown. What is that colour. Regards, Tony
+Tony Roulston Hi, Its RAL 6014 "Gelboliv", otherwise known as Drab green or Nato olive - A color very hard to photograph. My shaper came in that color and when I restored my lathe I used the same color for it.
+Stefan Gotteswinter Thanks Pal. it looked like a military green. I want to use it for a steam engine model. Thanks, Tony
8 лет назад
Do you use any CAD tools while designing/building these parts? Shame you didn't film the part where you relieved the V-block. Would have been interesting to see that.
Most of the stuff I do by pencil on paper. But for more complicated parts I use Solid Edge as a CAD :-) The reliefing was not to spectacular, only milling to layout lines. The link in the description shows some pictures of that process.
when you are milling the slot @ 15:28 why does your acrylic tool holder in the back ground start spinning during the milling? never seen it move ever on any other operation? strange???LOL !
Not sure if this has been asked before. Shouldn't you relieve the key at the base of the V so the work piece can index on the face of the plate instead of slightly above?
This is historic! I have 6 more to go before i have watched all of your 227 videos (some more than once) and for the first time i am sitting here and thinking "Why did`nt he.." So to get to the point, why did you not make the clamp the same weight as the main part to balance the whole thing? Btw... You need to step it up, as i said i have only 6 more videos to go an life without watching your interesting videos would be hard.
+Flip de boer There is a simple answer :) My carriage of the lathe cant go that close to the headstock because of the telescopecover of the leadscrew - So I had to extend it out a bit.
+Stefan Gotteswinter I was going to ask this also, even though I knew you must have a good reason, I was still curious. I certainly didn't think you made it long just to show off, LOL! Thanks for the great show and excellent display of craftsmanship, Aloha...Chuck
I just love this guy. Between TOT, tubalcain, and this, I can pretty much cancel my netflix and hulu subscriptions.
Jaye Mathisen 😂 countless videos to keep you occupied
Excellent, love the chuck. Subscribed. Does your shaper cut on the return stroke? I've never seen that.. at least not on purpose. Better than having hot chips straight down one's shirt!
+This Old Tony Thank you Tony! I have two clapper boxes, one cuts on pull, one on push. I prefer the pull type for the reason you mentioned ;)
+Stefan Gotteswinter interesting.. do you have additional switch/lever to tell the shaper which way its cutting? it looks like the cut stroke is slower (as it should be), but how does the machine know which clapper box you have installed? that's not one of those new programmable CNC shapers is it? :)
by the way, i know this is the wrong place, but I'm still laughing at your 20k rpm tool holder.
+metalhead2508 You have to tell the machine if you want to cut on pull or push - The return motion of the shaper ram is faster because of the motion of the crank/yoke in the machine.
+This Old Tony Yes, The switch for the motor allows to choose the roation direction of the motor :)
You could reverse a three phase motor by switching two phases, but some single phase motors can be electrically reversed as well by changing the polarity of the second coil and the operation capacitor (plus starter capacitor). Check out this link: woodgears.ca/motors/reversing.html
That said, as long as the mechanical side of things can live with that.
What you should check is if the fan on the end of the motor will still work as desired if run in reverse and if insecure, contact your local electrician.
As far as i understood, those shapers usually have a whitworth quick return mechanism, which would run similar in CCW as in CW, besides the intended effect of having the quick return on the other stroke.
Any other function like automatic lubrication and power feed direction would need to be taken care of and might be harder to overcome. So i am curious how Stefan gets it working just by reversing the motor. Either the power feed is independent of the direction (seems to be Geneva-like?) or it can be reversed as well. It is an interesting machine...
I added some 10mm threaded holes to the edge of the face of my offset chuck build. I use them tho mount some chunky tungsten weights on the opposite side as my offset. It makes my lathe run much happier when turning offset parts. I was pretty limited as far as top speed goes because of vibration, and the weights cured it.
The way that you showed how you used gauge blocks to aid lining out was so educational. Thank you sir.
Your attention to detail and precision is enthralling. Thank you for sharing your knowledge in such an interesting way.
Hi Stefan
We may not need to build one of these but watching all the various steps in constructing one teaches us numerous ways to go about doing lay out work, machining etc which is a real eye opener for us.
Thanks again for the splendid Video.
All the best
aRM
Stefan, very nice build. I might half to steal that idea and build a Chuck like that for my machine. Thanks again for sharing.
+vince saluto Let us see pictures if you do so :)
Beautiful project, with an assortment of clamps the possibilities are endless. Nicely done!
the tuning of the wise is insane. You got some amazing knowledge
As usual, marvellous innovation, I just hope that the eccentric throw does not do any damage to your headstock bearings.
Very nice fixture. One thought I had was that it might be worth making a few flat straps of different thickness with holes matching the clamp strap. With longer screws, these could be used to add counterweight for balance if you are turning something very eccentric ...
Hi Stefan, great work as usual :-) I thought perhaps an engraved scale across the T slot could be useful in coarse alignment, combine this with another T nut that could be clamped at the outer end of the T slot and a threaded rod from this T nut to the clamping T nut could provide a fine adjustment. The additional T nut could also help (in a small way) to offset the offset weight of the v-block. just a thought!
Thanks Stefan for detail on fabrication of off center chuck .I been waiting since you shoptalk #9.I am going to build one for myself. Thanks
Typical Gotteswinter, clean design, precise, functional
nicely done Stefan
+Phil's Projects Thank you :)
Beautiful engineering and machining as always Stefan. I would have loved to see the vee block being machined completely. There could have been a lot more lessons learned from watching the entire process. Thanks
I LIKE that chuck!
It gives me several ideas.
Thanks,
John
I liked the idea of using something like this for grinding. I have a magnetic chuck (faceplate) for my lathes, which I usually put a three jaw chuck on for grinding (so I can bump it around until it's dead true), but I have a "Keats" style V angle plate which I could use instead and avoid getting abrasive dust in the chuck - and if need by I could scrape the mounting surface dead square with the flats of the V to give better perpendicularity to the face of the chuck, which is dusted dead square to the axis with the toolpost grinder for really fussy work.
as usual, Stefan, excellent workmanship. Very informative.
"doesn't matter very much because..doesn't matter" Stefan Gotteswinter Dec 11, 2015
another great quote. lol
Love that you use the shaper so much. That was always my favorite piece of machinery to use, although it seems to have fallen out of favor in the machine shop.
It is such a basic machine and still can do a lot - Unfortunately it is hard to make money with it today :D
nice work, I can think of so many uses for that chuck....really respect your thought process when designing your parts or tool. Your explanations for why and how, always have something I haven't thought of in them....very well made and the show was great, thanks.....
If you make the key into a t nut and then thread a hole in both ends you can use threaded rod and nuts and washers on each side to adjust the throw and it will help keep the position if the t nut should loosen.
I love your videos and ideas and I hope to have a shaper someday.
Once again I miss my old shaper when I see yours! Notice yours was cutting on the ''pull'' - mine I always cut on a 'push' stroke.
Lovely piece of work Stefan - as usual, your excellent precision.
Nice alignment tecniques...It is good to see these. Thank you for sharing.
+Glenn Felpel I think the setup stuff is even more interesting than the actual chip making. Everybody can shove an endmill into a piece of steel - But proper setup sets the beginner apart from the more experienced machinists :)
+Glenn Felpel Yes Stefan....That is exactly what I was thinking. But, about shoving an endmill into the steel, I did not know you could mill pre-hardened steel. You mentioned you were using a carbide cutter. However, the shaper tool seemed to be a normal HSS cutter. The machining seemed almost normal. And truly you are an experienced machinist, it shows. Thanks again for the time you spend making the videos and all.
A very impressive project as usual. Very useful tool and it looks as professional as a factory made tool. Thanks for sharing.
Very well done, Stefan! Thanks for sharing.
Another excellent video Stefan. Wondered how you were going to set the accuracy of the vee to keyway and your method worked out great.
I find your machine work very interesting.
If you should have a problem of unbalance a simple counter balance can be added !
nice work Stefan !
if you had an old 3 or 4 jaw chuck that fits your lathe you could strip it down and do something similar by using the slots for the jaws or make an angle plate that replaces 1 jaw then you could use the screw or scroll to adjust the offset .
Stefan, nice project and presentation. I love to make a copy for myself. Previously I add a shim of specific thickness to one of three jaws. Not quite straight forward but get the job done.
For a while, when i didn't have a height gauge i also used the blocks + scriber method. To make my life easier and because all of my blocks are of equal width (something not all height blocks share, i know) i made a steel sleeve that went over the scriber + block.
Simple design that snugged over the block with the help of two thumb screws over a strip of copper (took inspiration from the adjusting screws on calipers).
It worked really nice since i only had to concern myself with keeping the block down not the scriber too, which can get a bit annoying when doing more complicated parts or even heights that require stacking blocks.
Like your ideas and machining skills.
18:30 a chevron-shaped strap clamp that can be used in two orientations, reaching into the V for small parts, or flipped around for larger diameters :)
20:30 OH YES
What yould be added to this build? Maybe an interrupted groove on the bottom of the T nut and two dowel pins as end stops so the sliding part is captive and doesn't fly off when the screw should come loose.
beatifull project as always. Only missing is a fine adjustment screw!
Good stuff I learned a lot on the set up, need to do some project using the new information I got from you video thanks a lot.
For eccentric cutting I use a hexagonal ER40 and just put some extra fitting on one side. Works very well.
OXTOOLS did a while ago a video about how to fit weights on the chuck for this type of application to avoid imbalance while rotating at high speed. I am mentioning that for your own safety Stefan. I hope it helps. Your videos are great!
This is a really cool project. Thanks for sharing man.
That first harmonic area of speed is usually referred to as the first critical if it is due to resonance which can be confirmed by a phase shift, no worries though. Want to make that vibration go away? if so use a metal container about the same size as the motor, (old paint can maybe) and fill it about 2/3 full of sand and strap it to the motor so that the motor can still cool itself. Vibrations gone. Thanks Stefan.
As usual. Stefan, a great video and tool development. Thanks!
Excellent video as always Stefan!
ATB, Robin
Thanks Robin!
Even thought about adding lead weights to lathe chassis to add more mass. Using an off center chuck on a light lathe may need the additional mass. Plus the lead could be moved around. Might help.
This is pretty cool stuff!! I can't make this, but for sure it is extremely interesting! Thanks for sharing your cool gadget!
I think you’re ready to make an eccentric for your steam engine 😁. For safety I’d add a grub screw that stands proud at the bottom of the T slot ens so the sled can never fling out.
Great tool design and addition to your shop. Thanks for sharing
Another great new idea or application, like your creative videos... ;)
This is incredible, already have some ideas as to how I might do something similar. Thanx.
Stefan, surprise you didnt add a fine adjustment screw on the slide similar to a boring head? Better than banging it in to spec I would think! Great design, going to mak ax smaller on for my lathe. Always good discussions and demos Stefan
Steven Columbus Michigan
Really Beautiful Job Well Done Bro... I an a new beginer and I dont have a 4 jaw so until One day I have enough Time :) to get me one your design is really, really good for me. Thank you again for sharing. Have a great time and keep up the GOOD WORK :)
Bravo Stefan, good work, as usually!
Very clever piece of engineering!
I like it! :)
Does your shaper have the same operating force in both directions? I can imagine if you were to pull-cut on a machine with a scotch yoke, you would want to reverse the motor rotation. That would give the mechanical advantage of the drive system.
Fuckin' Genius Sir, just fuckin' genius....
Thanks. The genius thing is still open for debating ;)
Gorgeous work Stefan.
I was thinking it would be possible to add another T-nut which would anchor a transverse nut that would allow you to use a threaded piece to adjust the eccentricity. Once it was set you could remove it for machining. Probably not really necessary as tapping works pretty well.
Did you cut the T slot on the mill or in your shaper?
The chuck part is so smoothly machined it looks surface ground.
I would have thought that you would need to use tungsten tooling to cut that hardened steel. It seemed to cut very well with HSS though. I'm going to see if I can buy some of that steel. It looks like great stuff.
Clamping down with only 1 M6 T-nut scares me, but i like the general idea.
A single M6 Screw can hold an imense load.
@@StefanGotteswinter I'm sure you've taken it in to account :)
I've assembled my second proper machining project yesterday, a little stirling engine. I've uploaded a short clip to my youtube page.
Nice design!
You could be an instrument maker!
Very good work. :)I
If you flip the v block 180 will be closer to the center of gravity i think. Amazing video
Maybe you could turn a really really long finger to switch the lathe on when testing. Or maybe a steel face hat. Great stuff Stefan. I rewatch your vids every winter and I think I learn more each time. Maybe it's dementia. Now, where did I put my keyboard?
Loved this. Thank you Stefan.
Very good job work
That electronic dial should wait for half-a-second after you release the button before zeroing. The way it's designed, you could never get a true zero because your finger is touching it when it zeros.
Nice vid
Weren't you going to make another VEE on the other side for large parts?
i would flip the clamp over since vibrations loosen bolts and it only sitiing on 2 fine point on one side
Not only precise and useful, but a beautiful piece of gear. When I get a lathe, the first thing I'll do will be to throw away the chuck (not much of a gesture, as it will surely be an El Cheapo brand, but still...).
OK, that's it for the praise part. Now for the criticisms: "vice" is pronounced as if it was written "weiss" and read in German. A vice, an edelweiss, same thing.
Pronounciation is always a problem :)
Great job Stefan !
another good build thanks
One of the parts I need to produce in my work are switch panels. These are generally make from acrylic .125" thick some time 20" in length. I could use a magnetic chuck with some sacrificial piece beneath and some steel washers on top. Or I also considered a vacuum chuck. The positive are that it could be made in modules to get the 20" length which is costly in a magnetic chuck and the base could be built in the shop. The negatives are the clutter and cost of a vacuum pump and the sacrificial under piece would need to permit vacuum to the part being machined.Do you have any experience with this?
very useful idea, well made as always. I admire your dedication. I wonder where did you perfect your English, I am living in Canada for 60 years still my English and speak ability is far below your level. Keep up those excellent jobs.
Old Bob
That's a very good question! I'd guess an English mother and German dad, or vice-versa, and schooled in Germany?
As soon as you picked up the long chips the first time I thought of a project from 6 months ago. Jesus those little chips hurt, and they keep showing up.☺
Just enjoy your craftsmanship.
A fine video.I must say I would like to have seen you center the slot.There are several ways,that much I know,I've seen several of your fine videos and have learned a lot,but I would have liked to have seen the way a craftsman does it to precision
nice looking tool! thanks for the video!
excellent video Stefan
Perfect! Make a hollow 2 jaw off center chuck for those guy's!
Wondering, as many may, if Stefan thinks my idea of using the whole table of that machine...
by semi-permanently mounting a spindexing rotary table to one end, the vice at the other, or ahem, vice versa, with perhaps a bit of room left for a third tombstone or TRUNNION axis w/Arduino NC ??
very nicely made
That is quite interesting. I found this searching for examples of a kit made by Hemingway Kits but that is a very interesting idea. Out of interest what is this magic tool steel that is pre hardened?
top Qualität, wie immer!! würde dich ja gern mal live beim werkeln sehen, mach doch mal nen Workshop!!
great job, continue to learn from you.
+Khalil Al Ali Thank you!
Why would you not make the clamp strap the same as the other side you seem to put a lot of effort into aperiance. Don't get me wrong I agree with your mind set. And it makes me think it will be very simple to make cam lock bolts witch I'm a big fan of all ready
I like the short parallels that you are using, did you make them?
Great work as always, I'm glad you are making videos regularly, thank you!
+plata salud Nope, I got those from...I dont know, somewhere :D But I am in the process of making a set of parallels that are hardened and very precise but dont require a surface grinder :)
I like the chamfering tool you use. Is that one of your own creations or is it a shop purchased item?
www.gtwr.de/projects/pro_chamfer/index.html
What brand oil comes in that can? I have seen a lot of you tubers use it but I am new to this and am not familiar. Any help would be great. Thanks, Eric
shop is nice and clean as well i like it just saying i noticed
Hey Stefan, thank you for your highly educational videos. What colour did you use when you restored your equipment. In some lighting (colour balance) it looks greed and at other times it look brown. What is that colour.
Regards, Tony
+Tony Roulston Hi, Its RAL 6014 "Gelboliv", otherwise known as Drab green or Nato olive - A color very hard to photograph. My shaper came in that color and when I restored my lathe I used the same color for it.
+Stefan Gotteswinter Thanks Pal. it looked like a military green. I want to use it for a steam engine model.
Thanks, Tony
Do you use any CAD tools while designing/building these parts? Shame you didn't film the part where you relieved the V-block. Would have been interesting to see that.
Most of the stuff I do by pencil on paper. But for more complicated parts I use Solid Edge as a CAD :-)
The reliefing was not to spectacular, only milling to layout lines. The link in the description shows some pictures of that process.
Awesome project. Thanks.
my amateur brain's thinking "surely, a 4 jaw chuck should be fine for most eccentric work" - any advantages with this design ?
when you are milling the slot @ 15:28 why does your acrylic tool holder in the back ground start spinning during the milling? never seen it move ever on any other operation? strange???LOL !
Not sure if this has been asked before. Shouldn't you relieve the key at the base of the V so the work piece can index on the face of the plate instead of slightly above?
great job !!
This is historic! I have 6 more to go before i have watched all of your 227 videos (some more than once) and for the first time i am sitting here and thinking "Why did`nt he.." So to get to the point, why did you not make the clamp the same weight as the main part to balance the whole thing? Btw... You need to step it up, as i said i have only 6 more videos to go an life without watching your interesting videos would be hard.
"Most of the work I think we will do on the shaper" - kann das sein dass das für fast alle deiner (tollen) Projekte gilt?
Stefan. I don't quite understand. Why not just use a 4 jaw chuck? I am not a lathe user at all.
wow nice work
another fine and good videothanks for sharing Stefan "keep up the good work"regards..keith in Swindon Wiltshire u.k
Stefan, Did you make your 'corner chamfering machine'?
Yes Sir! I have a video on it "Chamfer milling machine" or go here for a writeup:
gtwr.de/projects/pro_chamfer/index.html
very nice work!
very nice build, no I know I need a shaper !!!
+Bob Shepherd As I said at another place: Every household needs a shaper.
why did you choos to give the main body so much length (so much stickout), while you could make it much shorter? cheers.
+Flip de boer Same question here... ;)
+Flip de boer There is a simple answer :)
My carriage of the lathe cant go that close to the headstock because of the telescopecover of the leadscrew - So I had to extend it out a bit.
ok, good answer!
+Stefan Gotteswinter I was going to ask this also, even though I knew you must have a good reason, I was still curious. I certainly didn't think you made it long just to show off, LOL!
Thanks for the great show and excellent display of craftsmanship, Aloha...Chuck
Another reason might be that the added mass might help mitigate vibration somewhat when turning someting that had an extreme offset..