How to mount parts on magnetic chuck: 1. Place part on magnetic chuck. 2. Turn on lathe. 3. Turn off lathe. 4. Look for new dent in shop wall, retrieve part from vicinity. 5. Repeat until no additional dents appear.
Great video Stefan, I do enjoy watching a craftsman at work, it's so satisfying to see the old shaper being used, the amount of shapers that was scrapped or just stood in the corner of workshops, gathering dust and rust, I think they are great. Keep healthy looking forward to the next video.
I think it is great that you make your own tools. I have watched all your tool making videos, and I did not even contemplate to make make my own holders and tools until I watched your "fearless" approach to tooling. Love it, and very interesting as always.
Thank you Stefan! I think it's safe to say that we ALL love your videos and we miss them when you're taking a break! Please keep the videos coming! Thanks again! :)
Hi Stefan, Thanks for the build, especially the keyhole photography, which is now used here in the Carolinas by the toilette Polizei. The overhead shot were interesting also, I envisioned that the oil can was stuck on a wall vertically till I realized it was resting the cross-slide. You deserve an extra bowl of rice for this one
Another great one. I always enjoy your videos. That was an interesting observation on the keyless chucks. I've jammed them a few times, I think, because I didn't reverse the spindle. I backed the tap out by hand.
I have the same keyless chuck, when I use it with drills over 12.5 mm (.5"). Don't ask why. It locks like you say. I just back off the drill with slip lock pliers, marks the drill shank a bit but out they come. Next time I get drills over half an inch though I'll get tapered ones. Learning a lot thanks
Yes. Definitely interesting and engrossing as well, STEFAN Like this project every bit. Thanks for the recording and the Sharing. Nothing to beat Your OWN Fabrication - especially Yours with its inherent accuracy and precision. This can Never be Bought !! May U always be busy doing this kind of stuff. Thanks a zillion. aRM
Thank you for all your sharing of knowledge and excellent instructional videos! I just bought my first machines and will try to make lots of tooling myself thanks to gaining an understanding through you!
Hey Stefan. Great video. I was scratching my head for a while trying to figure out how to match my MT2 centre taper. Now to make my tail stock tool holder.
I am always impressed that you have such a good understanding of the English words for machining. I had a very tough time finding the German words for technical items... and then they are generally quite long words. Ausgeseichnet arbeit - einmal. Stefan - Vielen dank!
Very nice little project. Yes you can buy on eBay, but it is often quicker to do it in house.I always enjoy seeing what you do with your shaper, my shaper is one of my favourite machines, I am always looking for an excuse to use it. thanks for another great video. Greg
Your work it is always really inspiring, because making your own tools in my case and country it is the only way. (Uruguay) Thank you Tony for the tip on the tool for the top slide, very practical. Thank you both and have a nice day.
Nice work Stefan! I'll be looking forward to your next phenolic gear cutting video... as I'm going to make up some phenolic gears as well - for my Sheldon lathe!
+Jeffrey Pfeifer Thank you! The gear-video will be one of the next ones, I got all the video footage shot and on my computer, so I "just" need to edit it ;)
That was truly educational. I can turn between centers and do so when I can. Point is, if you have to reverse the part you *must* turn between centers. Still fun to watch it done The power feed for the compound (thank you Tony/Stefan) is just priceless. Ah, I have just figured out a way to do it on my Taig. But the best part was cutting the keyway on the shaper. You have just exercised my mind for 20 minutes or so and I can't think of a better way to center the piece. And I must go to Michael's ( a craft store) and see if they have that gummy eraser.
This was very interesting and useful. Thank you for taking the time to show us your project. What is the model number of the Noga deburring insert? The very small size insert with a rounded tip is looks very handy for deburring small parts. Regards, Paul
And I'm over here, making an attempt to turn a similar chunk of steel to a #5 taper. Haven't fully decided what the other end is going to be machined for. If I Bozo the taper, I'll just set it all straight again and make a dead center to use in the three jaw. If the taper goes well, a shell mill will probably go on the other end. It's good to have contingency plans for something if the more complicated part of the job doesn't go well.
As always Stefan great work! I need to make this exact piece of kit too. I dont want to 'lose' but i dont have a mill or a shaper or arbor press for the keyway. May still be able to do it using the lathe carriage.
Yes, I have seen it done with the carriage numerous times - And did it myself, but only with very small (2mm wide) keyways. Takes some patience :) And if nothing helps, you can still file the keyway out :)
For making arbors with 0 runout I like to use a lathe tool in the vise and let the arbor be held in its actual mill holder, it works well. You made a nice tool here. I enjoy gear and spline cutting myself so look forward to that. :-)
+bcbloc02 Thank you! Yeah, I have seen that done, machining the arbor on the machine, but for an unknown reason I dont like that method very much - But it makes sense and will give a perfect result as you say. For some reason I enjoy all kind of rotary table/dividing work as well as singlepoint threading on the lathe very much :D
Hi Stefan, when you cut the keyway on the shaper you did an intial cut in the center and two cuts offset by 0,5mm. If you wound have offset the cutting tool by 0,5mm BEFORE the first cut, you only have to offset it once by 1mm. Everything would still be cented but you only need to make two cuts. Btw. nice and precise videos. Keep going!
Hi mate. Nice as always. Hee, when centering on the magnetic chuck, why not use a piece of square with a small ball-bearing at the end? you could hold it in the tool holder, and just push the project to the centre. I would think that you could even centre square or irregular items with this method, right?
Great work Stefan! How to change shaft/arbor at Rohm mandrel? I have a chuck Rohm ( 3-16mm ) that I destroyed it because i did not remove the arbor MT. Any ideas? Thanks!
Hi Stefan. How do set the 30 degree angle on the compound in order to true up the center, held in the 3 jaw chuck? Trigonometry, indicating, or some other way? Buying means loosing... awesome quote Stefan...
Nice work as usual and nicely timed as I just got some gear cutters. I've yet to turn between centers so now is a good time to try it. A hobby machinist/fabricator should never apologize or have to justify making their own stuff! I mean, isn't that the whole point of the hobby??
I've watched this a couple times, and one question. Why match to another more taper holder initially instead of setting up with the specs from a book, then tweak the fit in your mill? Doesn't that cut out a layer of having to trust somebody else's work? Anyway, enjoyed it, I always learn something.
Stefan, did you tried to center your part on the magnetic chuck using a roller (bearing) into your tool holder and run it on the outside of the pat diameter while you spin the chuck?
I was thinking when you remove the piece from the mag chuck before you move if you were to draw around it with a fine sharpie for what you awe doing there might miss out using the indicator again just a though buddy
Ohhh !!! Wow ... Nice plan... KENNEK-built Stefan-inspired copper jaws for my Vice Grip® plierz. Right ??? That gray putty looks like mastic... eternity-durable, water-resistant, sealable, paintable, and cheap-ish !!
Cool video (as usual). A beginner machinist question here: How do you tighten the special cross shaped nut at the end of the arbor? Is there a special wrench/spanner that one uses? Do you tighten the arbor after mounting in the mill spindle, or do you have a jig for holding the arbor away from the mill for tightening before placing in the spindle? Always enjoy your videos and learn quite a bit from them, then I go out to the shop and machine. Great.
+Jim Milne Finger tight is good enough most of the time. A quick shot with a drift will give it some extra snugness or remove it. You can also use one of those t-handled spanner wrenches that are used often with shell mills.
+Jim Milne Good question. Since the cutter is keyed to the arbor it will neither loosen nor tighten the bolt during cutting so I can't imagine needing to crank on it. However, on small machines like mine relying on a dinky V belt to hold the spindle, I would either drill through the arbor and use a rod, mill flats like on ER collet holders, or drill a few shallow holes and make a curved pin spanner.
+Jim Milne Yes, there is a special spanner for this purpose, you can see it here www.kfh-hermann.de/shop/images/product_images/original_images/bilder_B042.jpg . The arbor gets tighten the arbor while beeing clamped in a vice or a mounting block like this www.powerplustools.de/5667-thickbox/cnc-montageblock-sk-30-bt-30-steilkegel-30-cnc-montage-kuli-werkzeugaufnahme-halter.jpg
Philipp Aznable Thank you. Very useful answer and kind of you to take the time to be so informative. I appreciate your efforts. And, I now know about kfh-hermann.de --- good!
Nice video always like to see you machine parts. I may have missed this info, I am wondering why you use MT 2 and not a straight shaft into R8 collet. Still great video. Have a day
+E Hiebert Because None of my machines accepts R8 tooling (Sidefact: In Europe R8 is one of the most uncommon toolings...maybe direktly followed by BS-Taper) Most toolroom milling machines are #40 Taper and the smaller machines are MT.
+Stefan Gotteswinter I have a tree 2vg milling machine which uses zz collet tooling up to 1 inch straight shank. Everyone else uses r8 taper tooling or 40 and 50 taper around chicago.
Hey Stefan, von Bayer zu Bayer, wos is da mit dem Glas deiner Mahr Messuhr passiert? Ich genieße deine Videos hier in Australien. Ein ausgewanderter Werkzeugmechaniker und KuFo Spritzgusstechnik 😉
Thanks for the nice video. After having seen you make a nice tool post grinder I would have loved to see it in action here....:-) Maybe there will be future opportunities for that.
nice part, but you could have added two flats on the big diameter of the arbor, as a place for a tightening jig, or for an adjustable wrench to loosen/ tighten the cutter holding nut. (extremely important, since as the milling cutter cuts, the nut may vibrate loose, the cutter chatters on the key, and that would be a way of fixing, without taking the assembly from the mill).
Excellent project thanks for sharing Stefan. I use a similar cleaner called "Cyberclean" in the UK its actually made for computer engineers but is good for cleaning in the workshop. Your English is excellent but I hope you do not mind me pointing out that, you borrowed ( can I borrow ?) the cutter from your friend and your friend lent (will you lend me ?) the cutter to you. regards from the UK.
+xxl1trade Most of my smaller tooling is MT2 as its for my kind of work stiff enough - And I cant cut a MT4 with my lathe as the travel of the compound slide is to short to do so...I have a MT4/MT2 sleeve and a M10 drawbar most of the time in my mill.
Наука
thoroughly enjoyed. would watch again. thanks Stefan.
How to mount parts on magnetic chuck:
1. Place part on magnetic chuck.
2. Turn on lathe.
3. Turn off lathe.
4. Look for new dent in shop wall, retrieve part from vicinity.
5. Repeat until no additional dents appear.
Lovely job Stefan -- as always great to watch you at work. There is always I think big satisfaction making your own tools.
This is the best channel on RUclips by far!!!!!!! Simple to the point and with zero bs and no ads.
Great video Stefan, I do enjoy watching a craftsman at work, it's so satisfying to see the old shaper being used, the amount of shapers that was scrapped or just stood in the corner of workshops, gathering dust and rust, I think they are great. Keep healthy looking forward to the next video.
Thank you again Stefan. Your pride in your workmanship is truly a badge and sure to inspire those that follow you.
I think it is great that you make your own tools. I have watched all your tool making videos, and I did not even contemplate to make make my own holders and tools until I watched your "fearless" approach to tooling. Love it, and very interesting as always.
Thank you Stefan!
I think it's safe to say that we ALL love your videos and we miss them when you're taking a break!
Please keep the videos coming!
Thanks again! :)
Hi Stefan, Thanks for the build, especially the keyhole photography, which is now used here in the Carolinas by the toilette Polizei. The overhead shot were interesting also, I envisioned that the oil can was stuck on a wall vertically till I realized it was resting the cross-slide. You deserve an extra bowl of rice for this one
Another great one. I always enjoy your videos. That was an interesting observation on the keyless chucks. I've jammed them a few times, I think, because I didn't reverse the spindle. I backed the tap out by hand.
I have the same keyless chuck, when I use it with drills over 12.5 mm (.5"). Don't ask why. It locks like you say. I just back off the drill with slip lock pliers, marks the drill shank a bit but out they come. Next time I get drills over half an inch though I'll get tapered ones. Learning a lot thanks
Yes. Definitely interesting and engrossing as well, STEFAN
Like this project every bit.
Thanks for the recording and the Sharing.
Nothing to beat Your OWN Fabrication - especially Yours with its inherent accuracy and precision. This can Never be Bought !!
May U always be busy doing this kind of stuff.
Thanks a zillion.
aRM
nice arbour! glad to come home to youtube and great project videos like this one! thanks for taking the time to make it.
Thank you for all your sharing of knowledge and excellent instructional videos! I just bought my first machines and will try to make lots of tooling myself thanks to gaining an understanding through you!
Hi Stephan as always very neat job I enjoyed a lot. Thank for sharing
Hey Stefan. Great video. I was scratching my head for a while trying to figure out how to match my MT2 centre taper. Now to make my tail stock tool holder.
always a pleasure to watch your work/process Stefan
Very nice practical project. Thanks for the video I think a tool that you make yourself is not only cheaper but much more satisfying.
Hi Stefan
Another great project and video It's awesome to see such fantastic work and you have another tool you can trust for your collection.
Dave
nice job stefan, i liked your trick for cleaning centers. i learned something today .thanks
Most enjoyable and informative.
Gives us confidence to tackle a similar project
Thanks again for showing and sharing
All the best
aRM
Nice work Stefan... it was interesting to see the magnetic chuck in action.
I am always impressed that you have such a good understanding of the English words for machining. I had a very tough time finding the German words for technical items... and then they are generally quite long words. Ausgeseichnet arbeit - einmal. Stefan - Vielen dank!
Very nice little project. Yes you can buy on eBay, but it is often quicker to do it in house.I always enjoy seeing what you do with your shaper, my shaper is one of my favourite machines, I am always looking for an excuse to use it. thanks for another great video. Greg
It is always nicer to make your own tools and again a good job, thanks for sharing.
totally agree, making your own is so much more fun than waiting for the postman!
Good to see the hand file work. Tom didn't do any lately !! Nice tool work Sir.
Great vid as always, and I learned some new things about keyless chucks too.
Great stuff! Always learning something new from your videos, thanks
Great job on the close up shot Stefan.
+dans-hobbies Thanks!
Your work it is always really inspiring, because making your own tools in my case and country it is the only way. (Uruguay) Thank you Tony for the tip on the tool for the top slide, very practical. Thank you both and have a nice day.
Nice work Stefan! I'll be looking forward to your next phenolic gear cutting video... as I'm going to make up some phenolic gears as well - for my Sheldon lathe!
+Jeffrey Pfeifer Thank you! The gear-video will be one of the next ones, I got all the video footage shot and on my computer, so I "just" need to edit it ;)
Nice work and video Stefan!
That was truly educational. I can turn between centers and do so when I can. Point is, if you have to reverse the part you *must* turn between centers. Still fun to watch it done The power feed for the compound (thank you Tony/Stefan) is just priceless. Ah, I have just figured out a way to do it on my Taig. But the best part was cutting the keyway on the shaper. You have just exercised my mind for 20 minutes or so and I can't think of a better way to center the piece. And I must go to Michael's ( a craft store) and see if they have that gummy eraser.
Very nicely done, I like it. I am with you on the buying thing.
This was very interesting and useful. Thank you for taking the time to show us your project. What is the model number of the Noga deburring insert? The very small size insert with a rounded tip is looks very handy for deburring small parts. Regards, Paul
Interesting and neat precision work from the master.☺
Great video/build/discussion/instruction!!
And I'm over here, making an attempt to turn a similar chunk of steel to a #5 taper. Haven't fully decided what the other end is going to be machined for. If I Bozo the taper, I'll just set it all straight again and make a dead center to use in the three jaw. If the taper goes well, a shell mill will probably go on the other end. It's good to have contingency plans for something if the more complicated part of the job doesn't go well.
You can also use a watchmaker's material called Rodico -19th century watchmakers used bread dough. Great Videos Stefan
As always Stefan great work! I need to make this exact piece of kit too. I dont want to 'lose' but i dont have a mill or a shaper or arbor press for the keyway. May still be able to do it using the lathe carriage.
Yes, I have seen it done with the carriage numerous times - And did it myself, but only with very small (2mm wide) keyways. Takes some patience :)
And if nothing helps, you can still file the keyway out :)
For making arbors with 0 runout I like to use a lathe tool in the vise and let the arbor be held in its actual mill holder, it works well. You made a nice tool here. I enjoy gear and spline cutting myself so look forward to that. :-)
+bcbloc02 Thank you! Yeah, I have seen that done, machining the arbor on the machine, but for an unknown reason I dont like that method very much - But it makes sense and will give a perfect result as you say.
For some reason I enjoy all kind of rotary table/dividing work as well as singlepoint threading on the lathe very much :D
Excellent work.
Great work Stefan
Nice job on the taper Stefan
Cheers Fred
That was great Stefan.
Hi Stefan, when you cut the keyway on the shaper you did an intial cut in the center and two cuts offset by 0,5mm. If you wound have offset the cutting tool by 0,5mm BEFORE the first cut, you only have to offset it once by 1mm. Everything would still be cented but you only need to make two cuts. Btw. nice and precise videos. Keep going!
It certainly is quite interesting, thank you for sharing.
He Stefan, I had the same mill Arbor 16mm and needed also the 22mm but did it by modifiing the collar of it to 22mm. One tool to do Both.
Thats also a good solution :)
Hi mate. Nice as always. Hee, when centering on the magnetic chuck, why not use a piece of square with a small ball-bearing at the end? you could hold it in the tool holder, and just push the project to the centre. I would think that you could even centre square or irregular items with this method, right?
Very nice, I always like the tools I make for myself better than the purchased ones.
Awsome video as always!
Great work Stefan!
How to change shaft/arbor at Rohm mandrel?
I have a chuck Rohm ( 3-16mm ) that I destroyed it because i did not remove the arbor MT.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
Great project! What is the order/part number of the Noga deburring tip you used?
Hi Stefan. How do set the 30 degree angle on the compound in order to true up the center, held in the 3 jaw chuck? Trigonometry, indicating, or some other way?
Buying means loosing... awesome quote Stefan...
I usually put a shoulder on my center in the lathe chuck so that I don't risk it moving back.
+zomie1 Thats usually a good idea ;)
Your not cheap, your smart and frugal.
sam yeates, whose?
Nice work as usual and nicely timed as I just got some gear cutters. I've yet to turn between centers so now is a good time to try it. A hobby machinist/fabricator should never apologize or have to justify making their own stuff! I mean, isn't that the whole point of the hobby??
Nice! Another great video. Thank You! CJ
I've watched this a couple times, and one question. Why match to another more taper holder initially instead of setting up with the specs from a book, then tweak the fit in your mill? Doesn't that cut out a layer of having to trust somebody else's work? Anyway, enjoyed it, I always learn something.
Hey Stefan,
I really like your "I have lathe, I can make it myself instead of buying it" mentality!
Will you be attending the BarZ bash?
Does that magnetic chuck hold work tight enough to use it on a rotary table on the milling machine for light work?
Nice work, I need to make one for face mill, whats the angine I have to set
Thanks
excellent work!
Stefan, did you tried to center your part on the magnetic chuck using a roller (bearing) into your tool holder and run it on the outside of the pat diameter while you spin the chuck?
Great video, thanks for sharing.
this vice you have is very stylish. i would like to know what kind you have there .THANK YOU .
I was thinking when you remove the piece from the mag chuck before you move if you were to draw around it with a fine sharpie for what you awe doing there might miss out using the indicator again just a though buddy
+lbcustomknives Good idea! In fact I do that from time to time, great eyeball-help. Thanks for droping by!
Super great share man , Enjoyed the work . Thumbs up !
+ShawnMrFixitlee Thank you!
Ohhh !!! Wow ... Nice plan... KENNEK-built Stefan-inspired copper jaws for my Vice Grip® plierz. Right ???
That gray putty looks like mastic... eternity-durable, water-resistant, sealable, paintable, and cheap-ish !!
a good job, thanks for sharing.
I had always thought that they machine that you had had R8 taper? Why did I think that
is there a reason for the od shape of the bolt head?
Excellent part, how much travel did your compound have? My lathe comes up short on compound travel 😂
what kind of type of steel did you use for making arbor?
Cool video (as usual). A beginner machinist question here: How do you tighten the special cross shaped nut at the end of the arbor? Is there a special wrench/spanner that one uses? Do you tighten the arbor after mounting in the mill spindle, or do you have a jig for holding the arbor away from the mill for tightening before placing in the spindle? Always enjoy your videos and learn quite a bit from them, then I go out to the shop and machine. Great.
+Jim Milne Finger tight is good enough most of the time. A quick shot with a drift will give it some extra snugness or remove it. You can also use one of those t-handled spanner wrenches that are used often with shell mills.
+Jim Milne Good question. Since the cutter is keyed to the arbor it will neither loosen nor tighten the bolt during cutting so I can't imagine needing to crank on it. However, on small machines like mine relying on a dinky V belt to hold the spindle, I would either drill through the arbor and use a rod, mill flats like on ER collet holders, or drill a few shallow holes and make a curved pin spanner.
+Jim Milne Yes, there is a special spanner for this purpose, you can see it here www.kfh-hermann.de/shop/images/product_images/original_images/bilder_B042.jpg . The arbor gets tighten the arbor while beeing clamped in a vice or a mounting block like this www.powerplustools.de/5667-thickbox/cnc-montageblock-sk-30-bt-30-steilkegel-30-cnc-montage-kuli-werkzeugaufnahme-halter.jpg
Philipp Aznable
Thank you. Very useful answer and kind of you to take the time to be so informative. I appreciate your efforts. And, I now know about kfh-hermann.de --- good!
I liked it so I copied it, like the Chinese. This made me burst out in laughter
Again great video thank you
Nice work.
After watching your video I think to myself, "I can do that". Then reality sets in, not without a great deal ruined parts. Thank you.
If you don't try, you don't learn.
Thumbs up on making your own tooling, that way you can get what you actually want not what someone else thinks you want.
Grat video, Mate. Love your work!
great video!
Stefan - who makes that magnetic chuck?!
Well done!
Thanks!
nice job
Nice video always like to see you machine parts. I may have missed this info, I am wondering why you use MT 2 and not a straight shaft into R8 collet. Still great video.
Have a day
+E Hiebert Because None of my machines accepts R8 tooling (Sidefact: In Europe R8 is one of the most uncommon toolings...maybe direktly followed by BS-Taper)
Most toolroom milling machines are #40 Taper and the smaller machines are MT.
+Stefan Gotteswinter Thanks for the info always good to know how things are done in other countries.
Have a day
+Stefan Gotteswinter
I have a tree 2vg milling machine which uses zz collet tooling up to 1 inch straight shank. Everyone else uses r8 taper tooling or 40 and 50 taper around chicago.
Hey Stefan, von Bayer zu Bayer, wos is da mit dem Glas deiner Mahr Messuhr passiert?
Ich genieße deine Videos hier in Australien. Ein ausgewanderter Werkzeugmechaniker und
KuFo Spritzgusstechnik 😉
Thanks for the nice video. After having seen you make a nice tool post grinder I would have loved to see it in action here....:-) Maybe there will be future opportunities for that.
33:50 - hey, even tripods need love. ;)
“Buying means losing”. You’re a wise man.
"Buying is losing", hahaha that's well thought somehow :) Is that a phenolic blank you use at the end for the gear?
+Sodabowski Yes, fibre reinforces phenolic.
Thanks for the video, Stefan! What's the name of the chuck manufacturer? I've been eyeballing Albrecht, but even used they're too much.
Hi Everett, the manufacturer is Röhm. They have two lines the "Supra" which is a bit cheaper and the "Spiro" which is the quality of a Albrecht chuck.
+Stefan Gotteswinter Thanks!
when will we see more on the angle plate .thank you. and keep up the good work your are doing .
+richard westerfield Should be the next video :)
thank you
How about making a bush an use the old arbor
Nice video Stefan. You can cut some 2MT for me if you like.Thanks for posting.
Bob
nice part, but you could have added two flats on the big diameter of the arbor, as a place for a tightening jig, or for an adjustable wrench to loosen/ tighten the cutter holding nut.
(extremely important, since as the milling cutter cuts, the nut may vibrate loose, the cutter chatters on the key, and that would be a way of fixing, without taking the assembly from the mill).
In retrospect I am not sure why I didnt mill two flats onto it, but I think I decided to only tighten it down while beeing in the spindle.
Excellent project thanks for sharing Stefan. I use a similar cleaner called "Cyberclean" in the UK its actually made for computer engineers but is good for cleaning in the workshop. Your English is excellent but I hope you do not mind me pointing out that, you borrowed ( can I borrow ?) the cutter from your friend and your friend lent (will you lend me ?) the cutter to you. regards from the UK.
Dammit, now I wanna buy a magnetic chuck for my 7x12 mini lathe.
Why a MT 2 as your mill has a MT4 spindle?
+xxl1trade Most of my smaller tooling is MT2 as its for my kind of work stiff enough - And I cant cut a MT4 with my lathe as the travel of the compound slide is to short to do so...I have a MT4/MT2 sleeve and a M10 drawbar most of the time in my mill.
nice video.