I am a pretty much self taught and very mature machinist. I really enjoyed watching this as I learned several things and got to see the basic movements around the equipment. For me this was a great video!
You do a real nice job in explaining your procedures, as well as the processes of whats happening to the metal during chip formation. You share a lot of wealth of information to learn from. Great job on your narration. Beautiful workmanship on all your projects.
Good job on the dies. Bought the same HF tube roller, tried to use it once and its sitting in the back room collecting dust. Built my own ring/tube roller with a 3ton hydraulic jack and both bottom 1 inch shafts driven by chain. Worked so well I'm building a bigger one with a 20 ton jack, 4140 shafts, 2 1/2" bottom, and 3" top, and a hydraulic motor to drive it. I enjoyed your video.
I work with a lot of different materials and your explanation of the metal reactions to being worked are really great. Much appreciated. I own a tag micro laithe very nice machines and can be upgraded immensely for lab work. I'm comforted that I am not the only one that rechecks then rechecks then recheck their measures once again. Most stuff I do on that little things is on the fly for quick fixes.... wish I had a real tool I could actually place a beer on Hah! Thanks for taking the time to post!
I bought one of those Harbor Freight rollers and made a set of dies to straighten a bent sailboat mast. (hollow aluminum) The curve of the sides of the mast wasn't an arc, but rather a funky parabolic thing, but I got 'er done and it worked great. Nice video! :D
I live in remote southern Colorado. No machine shop suppliers anywhere close. We are going to Phoenix for Christmas, family, friends, etc. I plan on going by the Metal Supermarket to get some metal. Hope they have what I need. Oh, nice video.
Thank you for all the great info on your videos. I had to bend flat stock "the hard way" as well. Ended up buying a die and making pretty good bends on my hossfeld.
At the last bit you mentioned the machine flexing because the metal is being worked off-center. I'm actually about to make dies for a roller bender I built and wanted to be able to work multiple profiles on a single die. This is what I'm doing... Make a die wider than you actually need. Cut a few contours much like you intend on doing but separate them into a number of separate dies that are equal in overall width. You can them sandwich them together and simply switch out the center one with an end one. E.g: if you need a 3" wide die and five different contours, you have two 1" wide "shoulder" dies that are the full diameter and one 1" "center" die with your contour cut into it. You just cut multiple center dies that you can switch out and each die only consists of 1" of material rather than 3" of material. I hope this made sense as it's certainly difficult to explain in a simple RUclips comment.
Great job Dale. Hope the grinder proves usefull. Three relays and a hydraulic solenoid and my big Kalamazoo saw functions as intended thanks Carl Garrett. I have to build a rail bender for two 15" gauge railroads being built here in Texas. Just have to make it strong enough to bend 20lb rail.
Good information. Maybe try cutting your single rollers into multiple disks for the different sizes, then they could be placed on the axles centre line to the roller frame and eliminate the twisting.
I will. Currently on my list are a stand for a milling machine I will be buying, with wheels, a bread roller, a pipe anvil, a diamond sharpener for brazed carbide tools ....
I work in a Machine/Fab Shop for a living and we have to do modifications like this all the time. Many times we don't know exactly how we are going to do the job we just know that we have to do the job..lol Usually learn something at the end .=-) Great Vid!
The video is cool. Like your transitions when processing. Tip: when crushing a shattered bearing out of the outer race, a small groove should be made to engage the knockout.
Great job with the video. I had just purchased one these HF rollers. I have the twisting problem also. I suspect the holes for the shafts are not exactly parallel with each other. Also I suspect I need to shim the sides till the rollers are in exact alignment. However I am not in a production situation so I can take some time to out the twist. Thanks again for your excellent work making the videos...
seen another guy use a dailindicator for measuring the dept if a cut , he used a dail indicator with a magnet (gleud?) on the back he stuck the indicator with the magnet to the bed and dailed off the cariage , its a lot faster to set up compared to using the dail indicator on a arm after youre done stick the dail indicator out of the way like a fridge magnet
I liked the fast pace of this video. Such videos should tell a story which does not require to document each and every step and in full length. Thanks.
if you used some think like a transmission jack on the large wheel side it would help the jig from twisting or cobble together a bottom screw on the bender, like the top one so you have a complete bracket supporting the drive wheel from the top and bottom.
Nice video, thanks for posting! I have looked carefully into parting tool chatter on my light duty lathe, and I have a couple of recommendations: 1) Make the tailstock stickout as short as possible. 2) Put a machinist jack under the parting tool so most of the cutting force will go straight to the cross slide, and bypass the relatively flimsy foot of the compound slide. 2a) If you'd rather not use a machinist jack, at least position the compound slide so the tool bit is as close to the center of the compound foot as possible. I have a Grizzly G0602 lathe, and the compound collar is very weak where it is relieved to reveal the protractor. By simply turning the collar around (and obscuring the protractor) the stiffness is vastly improved and the lathe is much more useful.
What is that self driving dog called? Never seen one. Cool project. I use bent strips like that to make bucks for metal shaping. I made similar dies for my bead roller but the machine couldn't take the forces. This might be the ticket.
I just finished modifying a hf ring roller to a hydraulic motor. I re machined the hf dies for 1x2 rect tube. I have vids on my channel. Nice job with the chromoly.
Great idea. I had thought of building something like this, but I had not thought about using one of those rollers from Harbor freight, that would really cut down on the build time. I've watched a couple of your videos now and I am adding you to the playlist so to speak. Havn't turned a tv on in a couple years, much better programming on here than the trash on tv....
Great video - a couple of ideas I thought of (I'm only starting out so these may be wildly out!). Could you taper the grooves ever so slightly so they are wider nearer to the outer edge. this would compress the excess metal but may cause too much strain on those thin side plates. The other idea I had was to make thicker side plates or strengthen the ones you have to prevent distortion. I am in the process of designing my own but will be using at least 10mm side plates which i hope to get laser cut locally. the rest i will machine. I have the same lathe as you (Different company but obviously from the same factory!) and I have the same issue - I thought it was me at first! I will be taking the apron apart this winter and scraping or lapping all the ways in. I have done this on a smaller lathe and it transformed it. More accurate, less chatter etc. Great video - keep em coming!
Hello there DALE from deep down under across the Pond. Been watching most of Your videos. There's always something there to learn from, even at our age, we never stop. Thanks for showing and sharing. Like some of the other Guys have mentioned, we really think the disturbing music is a terrible distraction as we need to concentrate and listen to U without any other noises. And besides, music is indeed all a matter of individual taste without U really knowing what all the world out there prefers. Just my two cents worth. ATB aRM
Nice project. I've made some of my own dues for a similar roller, when bending like you're doing lubrication is important. It helps keep the mushroomed edge of the flat stock from binding. Personally I've had good luck with WD40. Also the bearings take a beating, I drilled my benders shafts by drilling them and adding grease fittings and replaced the bearings with quality shielded ones and removed one side shield. Installed with the open side towards the grease I haven't had to replace them. Originally I was buying the bearings ten at a time. Just my experience, I know there's a hundred ways to do things. If you check the Swag Off Road website it'll give you a lot of ideas what that roller is capable of.
Hardening steel does *not* appreciably change its modulus of elasticity. It's a very popular misconception. It does raise the stress it can be subjected to before it becomes permanently bent, but that's not what is being discussed (in relation to twist drills vs centre drills) at about the 4 min mark. Centre drills are stiffer because they're short and stocky, not because they're thru-hardened.
@@BuildSomthingCool Ahhh. Thank you. I designed Delrin wheels for my SWAG roller for up to 1.5" angle iron. The drive wheel was the hardest part because of the broach. I had to take it to a local shop that is much better equipped than me. A couple weeks and $50 later I had a set. I know there are home shop press broaches, but I would us them maybe once every 3-5 years.
Just spitballin here, hows about if ya wuz to make those rollers in interchangeable sections, say 3 sections per roller, each section with a different size groove. Ya jus put the one you wants in the center and an give er! Now yous gots a multi use tool withouts the twisting ??? You could make roller sections for all kinda profiles and use a little less material while youre at it.
I know this is older but whenever you use a smaller boring bar get a old bicycle innertube cut it into inch wide and 1/2" strips and tightly wrap the end of your boring bar and secure with some rubber bands and it will greatly reduce your vibration and chatter 👍👍👍
You pointed out some great tips at the beginning. Thanks so much for that. I always wondered how to make a bend metal like that. Can you turn down the music a bit? I like it but a bit to loud. Great new stile video. Keep it up.
Hello Dale. I have the same Enco lathe, but I cannot find and documentation on what the exact cam lock size is on the chucks. Not even the Manuel states it. Is yours a D1-3 or D1-4?
I noticed you long feeding by hand when roughing out the roller blank. Every cut following was by auto feed. What's the reason behind this? Great video. I don't need music to keep me interested. I like the sped up parts to keep the time from drawing out too long.
My feeds and speeds vary due to morons at the shop screwing with belt tension.. old south bend 13. Some times I can get them blue chips. Not to mention now tail stock and bed are screwed up.
Hey Dale, you are wrong on the internet. Let me fix that for you. It is true that drills typically are softer at the shank end, however hardness and stiffness in steel is hardly correlated at all. Hardness only affects how easy it is to dent the surface of a material. The stiffness of hardened steel and mild steel is practically the same. If anything the mild steel will be slightly stiffer. If the hardness of the material was to come in to play then there would have to be dent's left by the drill chuck on the shank of the drill. The reason you want to use a center drill to start the hole is because it is short and stubby. Take a long rod of material and fasten it to something solid so that only a short length is hanging out. Now try to deflect it. Repeat the experiment but now with a long stick out. You will find that the deflection with the long stick out is way bigger, I'm talking hundreds of times bigger. Keep up the good work!
I am a fairly experienced metal worker and your videos are packed with little tips and comments which are helpful to expand my knowledge.
Dale, thank you for taking the time to show how you solved this problem. I really enjoyed your video.
thanks Walter :-)
I am a pretty much self taught and very mature machinist.
I really enjoyed watching this as I learned several things and got to see the basic movements around the equipment. For me this was a great video!
Thanks for the editing, keeping the length of the video easy to watch, always enjoy your videos!
I must post to say thanks a million for sharing you time, knowledge and kindness.. You present things your way - nothing wrong with it.. Period !!
You do a real nice job in explaining your procedures, as well as the processes of whats happening to the metal during chip formation. You share a lot of wealth of information to learn from. Great job on your narration. Beautiful workmanship on all your projects.
I just love your videos and your basic simple style of teaching. This is going to get expensive for me.
Loved the bends on flat stock your equipment and design are very cool
Love your machining ability. You explain things so we novices can understand, thanks so much, Joaquin (watchmaker)
Good job on the dies. Bought the same HF tube roller, tried to use it once and its sitting in the back room collecting dust. Built my own ring/tube roller with a 3ton hydraulic jack and both bottom 1 inch shafts driven by chain. Worked so well I'm building a bigger one with a 20 ton jack, 4140 shafts, 2 1/2" bottom, and 3" top, and a hydraulic motor to drive it. I enjoyed your video.
that's really neat Dale Thanks for showing
Like always Dale, another great video.... Thanks for sharing.
:-)
That was a really good outcome. It's so cool you can make your own tools, and dies. Thanks for showing us some tips.
Nice project, nice resulting radius piece.
I work with a lot of different materials and your explanation of the metal reactions to being worked are really great. Much appreciated. I own a tag micro laithe very nice machines and can be upgraded immensely for lab work.
I'm comforted that I am not the only one that rechecks then rechecks then recheck their measures once again. Most stuff I do on that little things is on the fly for quick fixes.... wish I had a real tool I could actually place a beer on Hah!
Thanks for taking the time to post!
SWEET VIDEO,I love the details and quality of workmanship
I have just started watching your videos, and I like them and the format is easier and straightforward. Thank you and thumbs up!!
I bought one of those Harbor Freight rollers and made a set of dies to straighten a bent sailboat mast. (hollow aluminum) The curve of the sides of the mast wasn't an arc, but rather a funky parabolic thing, but I got 'er done and it worked great. Nice video! :D
Thanks for the fast-forward! I wish some of the other RUclips machinists would do it!
Thanks For your comment Andrew :-)
Excellent as always, Dale. I had no idea you could bend a flat bar edgewise. Fascinating.
Bill
SEMO Bill that's why they call it bending it the hard way!
I live in remote southern Colorado. No machine shop suppliers anywhere close. We are going to Phoenix for Christmas, family, friends, etc. I plan on going by the Metal Supermarket to get some metal. Hope they have what I need. Oh, nice video.
I have been thinking about purchasing this roller. Nice to know that it us possible to make dies for it. Awsome video, thanks!
HI, I do want you to know it has its some problem you will have to possibly work though
You can also buy dies from some "offroad" company, but one set costs more than this roller did in the first place...
I need to make that same part for my ring roller, Nice work and thanks for posting.
Great video Dale. Thanks ..
Watched this video earlier, as always Dale, very good, and informative.. Thank you for sharing....
Thank you for all the great info on your videos. I had to bend flat stock "the hard way" as well. Ended up buying a die and making pretty good bends on my hossfeld.
I have been looking for a Hossfeld. They are hard to find
Your Show is Awesome, short and sweet Custom pieces!!! I’m a Subscriber for Life
Lot of tips. Thank you for sharing
Thanks :-)
I also have this bender. I need to make a stand for this tool. A video showing your ideas on this would be appreciated.
Ok the die is cast, nice work Dale!
At the last bit you mentioned the machine flexing because the metal is being worked off-center. I'm actually about to make dies for a roller bender I built and wanted to be able to work multiple profiles on a single die. This is what I'm doing... Make a die wider than you actually need. Cut a few contours much like you intend on doing but separate them into a number of separate dies that are equal in overall width. You can them sandwich them together and simply switch out the center one with an end one. E.g: if you need a 3" wide die and five different contours, you have two 1" wide "shoulder" dies that are the full diameter and one 1" "center" die with your contour cut into it. You just cut multiple center dies that you can switch out and each die only consists of 1" of material rather than 3" of material.
I hope this made sense as it's certainly difficult to explain in a simple RUclips comment.
Great job Dale. Hope the grinder proves usefull. Three relays and a hydraulic solenoid and my big Kalamazoo saw functions as intended thanks Carl Garrett. I have to build a rail bender for two 15" gauge railroads being built here in Texas. Just have to make it strong enough to bend 20lb rail.
So glade to here you got your saw running :-)
Great video as always.. really interesting tips .
Good information. Maybe try cutting your single rollers into multiple disks for the different sizes, then they could be placed on the axles centre line to the roller frame and eliminate the twisting.
Thanks for the suggestion. I don't think the axel can handle the force.
haven't seen you for quite a while but REALLY liked this one...thanks!
Love your videos Dale!👍
I will. Currently on my list are a stand for a milling machine I will be buying, with wheels, a bread roller, a pipe anvil, a diamond sharpener for brazed carbide tools ....
I thoroughly enjoy your videos Dale, look me up if in Australia we could build something cool here 2 Americans making something cool down under
That was pretty cool.
I work in a Machine/Fab Shop for a living and we have to do modifications like this all the time. Many times we don't know exactly how we are going to do the job we just know that we have to do the job..lol Usually learn something at the end .=-) Great Vid!
Multi-use bender..that's what it's all about. I bought a Hossfeld clone hydraulic unit last summer. Slowly making dies for it as needed. :-)
Congratulations. After 50 yars working I continue loving this works Lacerda - São Paulo - Brazil
thanks for this Dale, i need to make something similar for my section roller. Thanks for sharing
Ja das ist eine gute Maschine zum Schablone anfertigen oder für meine Arbeit braucht Rolle mit kleinere Durchmesser
Nice job, I always like video of using tools to make tools for other tools.
The video is cool. Like your transitions when processing. Tip: when crushing a shattered bearing out of the outer race, a small groove should be made to engage the knockout.
I need to make a set of these! One thing I noticed is that if you shim the sides to eliminate side to side play, the thing works better.
Interested in making some 3.5 inch dies? Trying to find some rollers to form stainless steel tubing
Great job with the video. I had just purchased one these HF rollers. I have the twisting problem also. I suspect the holes for the shafts are not exactly parallel with each other. Also I suspect I need to shim the sides till the rollers are in exact alignment. However I am not in a production situation so I can take some time to out the twist. Thanks again for your excellent work making the videos...
Hello again, at 09:10 you showing a very useful tool (dog). Please help me to find one like this or what keyword should I use for search. Thanks.
seen another guy use a dailindicator for measuring the dept if a cut , he used a dail indicator with a magnet (gleud?) on the back
he stuck the indicator with the magnet to the bed and dailed off the cariage , its a lot faster to set up compared to using the dail indicator on a arm
after youre done stick the dail indicator out of the way like a fridge magnet
Nice video, Im always learning.
Me too Ben :-)
I liked the fast pace of this video. Such videos should tell a story which does not require to document each and every step and in full length. Thanks.
excellent video... thumbs up!
What type of steel is that yellow green the one that bender is made of ? is that some kind of coating or that color comes after heat treat?
zumbazumba1 coating. It’s zinc dichromate or cadmium dichromate
Dale, I miss your videos!
Your awesome...so refreshing
if you used some think like a transmission jack on the large wheel side it would help the jig from twisting or cobble together a bottom screw on the bender, like the top one so you have a complete bracket supporting the drive wheel from the top and bottom.
I like the idea of the set screw.
Nice video, thanks for posting!
I have looked carefully into parting tool chatter on my light duty lathe, and I have a couple of recommendations:
1) Make the tailstock stickout as short as possible.
2) Put a machinist jack under the parting tool so most of the cutting force will go straight to the cross slide, and bypass the relatively flimsy foot of the compound slide.
2a) If you'd rather not use a machinist jack, at least position the compound slide so the tool bit is as close to the center of the compound foot as possible.
I have a Grizzly G0602 lathe, and the compound collar is very weak where it is relieved to reveal the protractor. By simply turning the collar around (and obscuring the protractor) the stiffness is vastly improved and the lathe is much more useful.
Great points.
When I had my band saw I found that lubing the cut helped in cutting but caused the blade to slip on the wheels.
What is that self driving dog called? Never seen one. Cool project. I use bent strips like that to make bucks for metal shaping. I made similar dies for my bead roller but the machine couldn't take the forces. This might be the ticket.
Turned out great man, I really like your videos. Next install two guide rails with linear bearing on the moving die.
Nice work Dale
Well Done !!!
Awesome as usual, isn't Dale ? Greetings.
I just finished modifying a hf ring roller to a hydraulic motor. I re machined the hf dies for 1x2 rect tube. I have vids on my channel. Nice job with the chromoly.
Hi! Your video has encouraged me to keep working with my harbor freight roller. Would you have any ideas on how to install lateral guide rolls?
Great video!(second time i see it)... i learned a lot, thanks. Where do you source the boring bars..
Great idea. I had thought of building something like this, but I had not thought about using one of those rollers from Harbor freight, that would really cut down on the build time. I've watched a couple of your videos now and I am adding you to the playlist so to speak. Havn't turned a tv on in a couple years, much better programming on here than the trash on tv....
Thanks for your comment.Glad I could help.
You mentioned the dies had some difficulty rolling the flat stock. Would it work better if you center the groove just like pipe dies?
Great job...
Thanks
Why did you switch from the three jaw chuck to the four jaw chuck?
Great video - a couple of ideas I thought of (I'm only starting out so these may be wildly out!). Could you taper the grooves ever so slightly so they are wider nearer to the outer edge. this would compress the excess metal but may cause too much strain on those thin side plates. The other idea I had was to make thicker side plates or strengthen the ones you have to prevent distortion. I am in the process of designing my own but will be using at least 10mm side plates which i hope to get laser cut locally. the rest i will machine. I have the same lathe as you (Different company but obviously from the same factory!) and I have the same issue - I thought it was me at first! I will be taking the apron apart this winter and scraping or lapping all the ways in. I have done this on a smaller lathe and it transformed it. More accurate, less chatter etc. Great video - keep em coming!
Hello there DALE from deep down under across the Pond.
Been watching most of Your videos. There's always something there to learn from, even at our age, we never stop.
Thanks for showing and sharing.
Like some of the other Guys have mentioned, we really think the disturbing music is a terrible distraction as we need to concentrate and listen to U without any other noises. And besides, music is indeed all a matter of individual taste without U really knowing what all the world out there prefers. Just my two cents worth.
ATB
aRM
Nice project. I've made some of my own dues for a similar roller, when bending like you're doing lubrication is important. It helps keep the mushroomed edge of the flat stock from binding. Personally I've had good luck with WD40. Also the bearings take a beating, I drilled my benders shafts by drilling them and adding grease fittings and replaced the bearings with quality shielded ones and removed one side shield. Installed with the open side towards the grease I haven't had to replace them. Originally I was buying the bearings ten at a time. Just my experience, I know there's a hundred ways to do things. If you check the Swag Off Road website it'll give you a lot of ideas what that roller is capable of.
love your work dale keep it up from down under lol
Hardening steel does *not* appreciably change its modulus of elasticity. It's a very popular misconception. It does raise the stress it can be subjected to before it becomes permanently bent, but that's not what is being discussed (in relation to twist drills vs centre drills) at about the 4 min mark.
Centre drills are stiffer because they're short and stocky, not because they're thru-hardened.
Your boring was not boring. Liked your video.
Great project
Thank for watching
did you not have to cut a broach for a key on the drive die/wheel?
Yes I brought the drive wheel, good question
@@BuildSomthingCool Ahhh. Thank you. I designed Delrin wheels for my SWAG roller for up to 1.5" angle iron. The drive wheel was the hardest part because of the broach. I had to take it to a local shop that is much better equipped than me. A couple weeks and $50 later I had a set. I know there are home shop press broaches, but I would us them maybe once every 3-5 years.
Just spitballin here, hows about if ya wuz to make those rollers in interchangeable sections, say 3 sections per roller, each section with a different size groove. Ya jus put the one you wants in the center and an give er! Now yous gots a multi use tool withouts the twisting ??? You could make roller sections for all kinda profiles and use a little less material while youre at it.
I know this is older but whenever you use a smaller boring bar get a old bicycle innertube cut it into inch wide and 1/2" strips and tightly wrap the end of your boring bar and secure with some rubber bands and it will greatly reduce your vibration and chatter 👍👍👍
It is possible to power all 3 rolls if sprockets and roller chain is used.
You pointed out some great tips at the beginning. Thanks so much for that. I always wondered how to make a bend metal like that. Can you turn down the music a bit? I like it but a bit to loud. Great new stile video. Keep it up.
Nice flip flops @5:44! Great video though, glad I found the new channel name.
That's awesome!!lol
Now you could cut more slots for different size's of materials in the same rollers. 1/8 x 1, 1/4 x 1 and so on. all would be on one set of die's.
Hello Dale. I have the same Enco lathe, but I cannot find and documentation on what the exact cam lock size is on the chucks. Not even the Manuel states it. Is yours a D1-3 or D1-4?
Mine is a d1-3
Cool project.
great video learned something cool
Thanks
I noticed you long feeding by hand when roughing out the roller blank. Every cut following was by auto feed. What's the reason behind this? Great video. I don't need music to keep me interested. I like the sped up parts to keep the time from drawing out too long.
What kind of lathe were you using if you don’t mind me asking??? I loved how smooth it was
My feeds and speeds vary due to morons at the shop screwing with belt tension.. old south bend 13. Some times I can get them blue chips. Not to mention now tail stock and bed are screwed up.
Elastic modulus does not change appreciably as a result of hardening. Yield strength and ultimate strength change as a result of hardening.
great video!
Thanks :-)
Hey Dale, you are wrong on the internet. Let me fix that for you.
It is true that drills typically are softer at the shank end, however hardness and stiffness in steel is hardly correlated at all. Hardness only affects how easy it is to dent the surface of a material. The stiffness of hardened steel and mild steel is practically the same. If anything the mild steel will be slightly stiffer. If the hardness of the material was to come in to play then there would have to be dent's left by the drill chuck on the shank of the drill.
The reason you want to use a center drill to start the hole is because it is short and stubby. Take a long rod of material and fasten it to something solid so that only a short length is hanging out. Now try to deflect it. Repeat the experiment but now with a long stick out. You will find that the deflection with the long stick out is way bigger, I'm talking hundreds of times bigger.
Keep up the good work!
Maybe a little less volume on the background music, like by 50%?
Seems like it might be cheaper to just cut these parts out of sheet stock vs. buying a big bar of 4140 and bending them.
you kind of OKAY...! ! :D Keep rolling old man,
Hey - Great Stuff Man. Thanks...
Put a bevel or 1° draft on the roller dies. That may help wedge and keep the the bar from not working with you.