I would like to see how you align and level the bed, you make fantastic videos and it would be one of the best on RUclips. Also surely if you make a ring on a chuck that's out the the ring is going to out too?
Hi Im from the UK, been in engineering a long time and think i can offer some information that might help you. The issue lies in the wear between the scroll and the boss it sits on, if you strip the chuck down again and check the clearance between them im sure you will find its greater than it should be, any wear here will allow the scroll to 'float' radially and when you tighten the jaws down it jams it in that offset position. Hence why the thicker grease helped accuracy but didnt cure the problem completely..and as the grease gets squeezed out the innaccuracy will return. This is why you get a different reading each time you either loosen and retighten or you tighten using more than one of the chuck key sockets. If you eliminate the wear here your chuck will improve massively, and that is why old or well used chucks loose their accuracy more than any other reason unless they have been stressed from overtightening. Another way to prove this is chuck up a bar and clock it, take the nearest high chuck jaw to a high point and with a block of aluminium and a hammer give the jaw a moderate but not hard tap and reclock. you will see the bar shift if the scroll is floating inside the chuck body. I hope this helps. Vic ..V.B.Engineering
@@RedDogForge its natural wear, you can only reduce it with good maintenance and lubrication...when its worn out its worn out. i guess its possible to machine the chuck body and the scroll and make an accurate spacer but its a lot of work on something thats going to be worn in other areas too. When my chucks lose their concentricity i replace them and use them as 'rough work' chucks..for jobs i dont want to put in a decent chuck like rusty farmers drive shafts etc
just a few hopefully constructive comments, sometimes a thin oil is better than thick grease. Although the grease takes up play it also acts like a form of shock absorber, oil on the other hand being thin can be more consistent. if you think of the case of a cross slide lead screw, a thick grease may sound a good idea but its not. Under heavy cuts it will get sqeezed out of the way but under light cuts it doesn't, leading to inconsistent depth of cuts on finishing cuts. Someone with DRO on their lathe could experiment to confirm or deny the hypothesis. It is better to have the jaws very slightly tighter furthest from the chuck face, a reverse bell mouth in effect. If ground trully parallel, once under load, they will become bell mouthed, due to inevitable play in the system, and cause problems especially when parting. At least these are my experiences. keep up the good work and ignore the tr-lls.
Very interesting on how grease type has an affect on the assembly. I never really thought about it until you mentioned it. Achieving repeatable high precision has many variables!
No way grease made that difference. He's just selling WD-40 products. Just as soon as he started about the company sending him stuff you know it's not objective.
I have a 10” Cushman 3 jaw chuck that is unusable do to bell mouthing of the jaws. I need to do this! Last time I ground a chuck it was an epic failure, so I’ve been hesitant to attempt it again! However I do have a much better understanding of the grinding process! Thanks for sharing!
I don’t believe it’s the grease... it’s more likely debris in the grease... The scroll and work piece try to rotate the jaws when clamping... the slots on the sides of the jaws an the corresponding keys on the chuck body hold jaws in alignment... debris on these surfaces will cause or at least contribute to the problem you where having... the poor scroll means you will have inconsistent pressure on the jaws which in turn leads to inconsistent run out grinding doesn’t help this much... wear on jaw slots and “keys” will let jaws rotate ... grinding should help this by compensating for the rotation of the jaw
I would like to see how you align and level a lathe. I think I know what you mean by align but I would like to be sure. I also enjoy seeing how you do things like this, because you always seem to put a little different twist to it.
This is a common mistake a lot of machinists make thinking that simply grinding the jaws will align the whole mechanism ... it will not. The issue is the scroll and how accurately it’s been made and how well it stays centered in the chuck body. Thus the only way to correct this problem is to re-grind the scroll on a precision setup. grinding the jaws will only make them accurate with the diameter they were ground at. scrolls wear over time at the most used diameter just like the bed ways are most worn near the head stock.
I want to see a video on how they design and cut the jaws and the scroll ring. Also how to avoid full chuck of chips. My jaws are regularly jam packed of chips, special if i am doing any type of deep boring or ID turning.
Please teach us how to align and level a lathe. Even though there are many videos on this topic I still end up with questions. The more advice on this topic the better
Great video! Just rescued a PB 6" chuck that I considered scrap. Followed you method and it worked perfect. Keep the content coming. Neil, Newport South Wales UK
My practical experience with it is to always use the master key for tightening, it gives the most repeatable results. I never use the other keys unless I just happen to need to get it held in that position before I can rotate it and finish the tightening with the master. Not going around and hitting everykey the same saves a lot of time and these style chucks are supposed to be time savers if you have to hit every key might as well use a 4-jaw.
I'm late to the party, but I'd also like to see the align and level video. However, I'm just glad you are back to putting out videos more often, so I'm good with anything honestly.. Thanks Dale!
Excellent presentation. On my three jaw I always use an indicator. I can affect quite a change by adjusting the pressure on different adjusting points. Typically mine will range from 0.08 to 0.02mm with some adjustments, but I always use my indicator. I rarely just tighten the three jaw with out checking.
I use the technique you already showed on leveling the lathe. Joe P has a good explanation on the geometry. Would like to see how you measure and correct alignment.
Ben, I question using outside pressure on the jaws instead of inside pressure. Should you not use a ring on the inside and squeeze the jaws tight, then regrind?
Dale, next time try a brass taper punch. I get what you were saying about needing a sharp blow. I have found in chuck dissembling a brash punch and steel hammer carefully directed are your best friends.
I would also like to see how to align and level a lathe. The American pacemaker I have has a 54" bed. I would say after 25" the carriage no longer moves because the lathe is so unlevel. So seeing a video where you explain and show how to level a lathe would help me out alot!
What type of grinding wheel did you use? It looks like you switched to a different grinding wheel before you had finished? What was the reason behind each type (if there was one)? Thanks
Being a watchmaker I have to scale down everything when it comes to grinding any thing. Run-out is no as serious as you might think since a runout of five thou over eighteen inches is practically nothing when your part you're making is less than a quarter inch long. Ood vieo though it made me think more about lubricants.
I had the same Problems with my six jaw. Try turning a one inch brass rod about 6” and turn a half inch dia end for the drill chuck . Run the lathe at your 45 RPM with pressure on the brass , using lapping Compound running it back and forth in the tailstock , lap the jaws. Takes time but u can get it much closer to .001 or a half thousand.
Cool to see you mounted one of those metabo die grinders on a dovetail! I've been using one for years....the slower model gear head die grinder is what I use, & mostly for small endmills & drills.
Really enjoy your videos. At the 4:00 minute mark you mentioned cutting a little shoulder in the jaws for grabbing a washer or similar piece. I like that idea and want to do it to my lathe chucks. I would love for you to provide a little detail on this operation. I have a 3 jaw and a 6 jaw chuck for my Monarch EE10 Should I do it to one or both chucks? Keep the great videos coming! Tom
Hi Tom, thanks for your question. I would only do one chuck, but it’s up to you and your work flow and how much you would use that feature. I use it all the time so I want it on the chuck I use the most. Your lucky because your chucks are small and light. Mine are not so light 😝 lol
Thanks for sharing. Recent subscriber. I notice you frequently comment about trolls. Too bad, just seems there are a slew of people out there that have nothing better to do but look for something to criticize, but overlook the 99% of the other information that could or would be useful to them. If the content wasn’t useful, and they already know how to perform whatever operation is being done, why are they watching the content? They can do whatever, however they want when they perform the process. I think constructive criticism is always appreciated, however most seems to be argumentative opinion. I watch another channel OTW, and he commented one time that he could give the winning lottery numbers and someone would comment negatively or give a thumbs down- great analogy. I value contributors that don’t always get the results they expect, and have the intestinal fortitude to show it. I value learning from successes, failures and different methods or processes. Keep doing what you are doing and I will keep watching.
U see when u come to fabrication and engineering, with the professionals and gurus, in the end there are some deferent idea and believe to sort out a complicated task, which all of them are absolutely right and doing it in their own way , Here it's come the way of how each one dose the job Every one have unique and its own way of doing it which can be decide who u think is the best
I watched, then I read the comments. One comment mentioned the possibility of different pressures of each jaw, which got me thinking. Initially the jaws were applying their face "lip" or "shoulder" against the aluminum ring. Perhaps you should have first trued those lips. But to true those, perhaps the inside jaw faces should have been clamping something that could allow jaw pressures to be as equal as possible - such as a thick plastic rod. Once the lips are trued then proceed with your grinding. Maybe that would have produced more accuracy in the end.
For grinding, turning rusty material, the outer crust on cast iron, polishing surfaces with emery cloth etc I use the cheapest aluminum kitchen foil I can find as the first layer to protect the way surfaces Dale. Then especially with grinding a fairly wet towel over the aluminum foil. The wet cloth seems to help to catch a whole lot more with less of the fine dust floating around. Even having hardened way's is meaningless if any grit makes it under the carriage, cross or top slide ways. All it does is start to embed into the softer unhardened slide surfaces and then begins scoring and wearing out those hard and expensive to restore precision surfaces. Yeah I do know at least Bison and probably a few others make specialized chuck grease. One possible reason for it might be because most industrial users would likely be using water based coolants that would help wash any oil out. Since I don't know the all the reasons for using there grease for sure then maybe my logic is faulty. Each to there own methods, but I personally think grease simply retains cutting chips in place inside the chuck while a light coat of way oil helps to float them out of way of the jaw teeth a bit better until your next chuck cleaning. I've tried grease and oil and the grease seems to require much more frequent chuck cleaning since the scroll and jaw teeth starts to bind up sooner. One down side to the oil is the chuck is going to sling some oil the first time you spin it up at a high rpm. Since oil or grease works due to the lubrication wedge it forms I really can't see any type of grease making a chuck more or less repeatable than any other form of lubrication. The lubrication only helps during opening and closing the chuck. Under the full tightening pressures that oil wedge is no longer there. Grease is basically an oil with thickeners plus extra additives where required. So grease isn't going to form a larger supporting lubrication wedge than the oil it's made with. I'm a long way's from being a lubrication expert though.
I was under the impression that there should be no added lubrication to lathe chucks as it attracts chips and dirt and can prematurely wear the chuck. The cast iron used in the chucks apparently has some lubricating properties and negate the need for oil or grease.
Dale, one question do you think it would help if you ground the chuck and restarted the process a second time. I'm thinking that grinding a second surface might change the first grind. Also, you pointed out the scroll was not the greatest. The clamping rings are a good idea but are you concerned that they only true up the chuck for one diameter? Thanks for listening. More videos, Please.
The scroll is the culprit; heavy grease can only take out some of the slop. One of the reasons a Buck chuck is expensive is the care that goes machining the scroll and jaws. Again, you tend to get what you pay for...
Hi, would like to see lathe levelling/alignment showing Headstock to bed using a piece of stickout, and how long this stickout matters for practical purposes, before you than has to revert to tailstock alighnments to chuck or collet/lathe centre. And if a bench lathe is bolted down it will be twisting the bed somehow......your version.
Judging from the condition of the scroll, it seems the only time the chuck can be true,is when the diameter of the work piece is exactly the same as the diameter you ground the jaws to.
well, looks like parts of this chuck are beyond any repair. biggest problem here might be the severe pitting on the spiral ring and original jaws, you will never get consistent results with that. dunno if there are spare parts available, should def be considered because 6 jaws with fine adjustment are pretty expensive to begin with.
i think you probably have a scroll problem. changing of the runout by removing and replacing the same piece of stock would show up an inconsistent clamp. the scroll may be moving in its seat. try using a different tightening technique and see if that results in a change in runout. also chucking up different diameters of stock would show up worn areas of the scroll.some production machines worked with the same size stock for years.i seriously doubt that lubricant is your problem.
I tried to true up my lathe chuck once. Then I bought a new one. hehehe What a terribly annoying thing it was trying to eliminate the run-out. I can see the same frustration in you that I felt back then when doing that job. I put wheel bearing grease in my chuck. It STILL splatters my clothes and everything nearby with tiny droplets of grease even months later. It's especially bad at higher RPMs. Does using WD grease eliminate that problem?
The problem is that you did not make the chuck body concentric in the first place. As a result your grind is only valid for that exact jaw setting. Any other opening size will not be concentric.
Fast cut / edited videos are fine for Action Films........not for Machine Tool Videos , where one misses out on some details required......speeded up videos while grinding and not knowing how may times fast it is !
Are you related to Eric Clapton? Just kidding. I'm trying to make my lathe more precise too, and well, I'm about to write a book about what a shouldn't have done. LOL. Greetings from Brazil!
Good video. When dismantling rusted old equipment I use the pick end of a body hammer to tap the bolts working them loose while turning then alternately in both directions. I would like to see your take on lathe alignment. If you can talk about lathes with removable head stocks.
![Yailin La Mas Viral, @kreizyk.official - Dale 2 (Remix) [Video Oficial]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/JaYHBzgqz94/mqdefault.jpg)
I'd be interested in a video on aligning and levelling a lathe please.
Yes please, alignment video
Keith Rucker vintage machinery has good video on leveling a big, IIRC, Leblond
@@russelllawson9797 nnn
Mmn
core t lathe adjusting and rapari look at djadko maxim canal,dont look ths comercial asshole!
I would like to see how you align and level the bed, you make fantastic videos and it would be one of the best on RUclips. Also surely if you make a ring on a chuck that's out the the ring is going to out too?
Yes, let's see alignment and level of a lathe.
@@CraigsWorkshop yes when you put it like that, I had a egg shape in my head.
Me too. I have a Boxford I need to set up.
Hi Im from the UK, been in engineering a long time and think i can offer some information that might help you. The issue lies in the wear between the scroll and the boss it sits on, if you strip the chuck down again and check the clearance between them im sure you will find its greater than it should be, any wear here will allow the scroll to 'float' radially and when you tighten the jaws down it jams it in that offset position. Hence why the thicker grease helped accuracy but didnt cure the problem completely..and as the grease gets squeezed out the innaccuracy will return. This is why you get a different reading each time you either loosen and retighten or you tighten using more than one of the chuck key sockets. If you eliminate the wear here your chuck will improve massively, and that is why old or well used chucks loose their accuracy more than any other reason unless they have been stressed from overtightening. Another way to prove this is chuck up a bar and clock it, take the nearest high chuck jaw to a high point and with a block of aluminium and a hammer give the jaw a moderate but not hard tap and reclock. you will see the bar shift if the scroll is floating inside the chuck body. I hope this helps. Vic ..V.B.Engineering
how would you "eliminate wear" ?
@@RedDogForge its natural wear, you can only reduce it with good maintenance and lubrication...when its worn out its worn out. i guess its possible to machine the chuck body and the scroll and make an accurate spacer but its a lot of work on something thats going to be worn in other areas too. When my chucks lose their concentricity i replace them and use them as 'rough work' chucks..for jobs i dont want to put in a decent chuck like rusty farmers drive shafts etc
Great, ofc I would like to see how to align lathe, good video idea, keep it up !!
just a few hopefully constructive comments, sometimes a thin oil is better than thick grease. Although the grease takes up play it also acts like a form of shock absorber, oil on the other hand being thin can be more consistent. if you think of the case of a cross slide lead screw, a thick grease may sound a good idea but its not. Under heavy cuts it will get sqeezed out of the way but under light cuts it doesn't, leading to inconsistent depth of cuts on finishing cuts. Someone with DRO on their lathe could experiment to confirm or deny the hypothesis.
It is better to have the jaws very slightly tighter furthest from the chuck face, a reverse bell mouth in effect. If ground trully parallel, once under load, they will become bell mouthed, due to inevitable play in the system, and cause problems especially when parting. At least these are my experiences.
keep up the good work and ignore the
tr-lls.
i use sp220 in chucks i work with ight gear oil,never had an issue, could be that this chuck is stuffed, needs a new one
chris0tube Sorry for that, will try harder to join the masses next time. 😉😉😉
Very interesting on how grease type has an affect on the assembly. I never really thought about it until you mentioned it. Achieving repeatable high precision has many variables!
No way grease made that difference. He's just selling WD-40 products. Just as soon as he started about the company sending him stuff you know it's not objective.
I don’t believe it for a second.
I can't imagine even owning a six jaw chuck, but I couldn't tear myself away from this video. Very engaging
You're absolutely right about the sharp blow of a hard hammer versus the soft thud of a soft face hammer.
I have a 10” Cushman 3 jaw chuck that is unusable do to bell mouthing of the jaws. I need to do this! Last time I ground a chuck it was an epic failure, so I’ve been hesitant to attempt it again! However I do have a much better understanding of the grinding process! Thanks for sharing!
You are right the sharp tink of a hard faced hammer will break the rust better and you weren't hitting it hard enough to damage anything
I don’t believe it’s the grease... it’s more likely debris in the grease... The scroll and work piece try to rotate the jaws when clamping... the slots on the sides of the jaws an the corresponding keys on the chuck body hold jaws in alignment... debris on these surfaces will cause or at least contribute to the problem you where having... the poor scroll means you will have inconsistent pressure on the jaws which in turn leads to inconsistent run out grinding doesn’t help this much... wear on jaw slots and “keys” will let jaws rotate ... grinding should help this by compensating for the rotation of the jaw
Love the racing stripe on the wall. Mine is on my shirt. 😀
mine is in my drawers!
Yes please to how to align and level a lathe. I'm hoping to buy my first lathe soon. Seems like a good thing to be able to do when I buy one!
I would like to see how you align and level a lathe. I think I know what you mean by align but I would like to be sure. I also enjoy seeing how you do things like this, because you always seem to put a little different twist to it.
Please make a level and alignment video.
You're great at explaining things!
This is a common mistake a lot of machinists make thinking that simply grinding the jaws will align the whole mechanism ... it will not. The issue is the scroll and how accurately it’s been made and how well it stays centered in the chuck body. Thus the only way to correct this problem is to re-grind the scroll on a precision setup. grinding the jaws will only make them accurate with the diameter they were ground at. scrolls wear over time at the most used diameter just like the bed ways are most worn near the head stock.
Was thinking same thing. Scroll inconsistent.
Maybe you could do a cooking show.
I want to see a video on how they design and cut the jaws and the scroll ring. Also how to avoid full chuck of chips. My jaws are regularly jam packed of chips, special if i am doing any type of deep boring or ID turning.
Well you could machine a tapered plug to keep the chips out (I presume you referring to the chuck bore hole getting clogged with Chips).
Please teach us how to align and level a lathe. Even though there are many videos on this topic I still end up with questions. The more advice on this topic the better
Great video!
Just rescued a PB 6" chuck that I considered scrap.
Followed you method and it worked perfect.
Keep the content coming.
Neil, Newport South Wales UK
That's a good method to grind a chuck . Cheers .
My practical experience with it is to always use the master key for tightening, it gives the most repeatable results. I never use the other keys unless I just happen to need to get it held in that position before I can rotate it and finish the tightening with the master. Not going around and hitting everykey the same saves a lot of time and these style chucks are supposed to be time savers if you have to hit every key might as well use a 4-jaw.
I'm late to the party, but I'd also like to see the align and level video. However, I'm just glad you are back to putting out videos more often, so I'm good with anything honestly.. Thanks Dale!
You are terrifyingly brilliant.
Another great video Dale. Always great info and instruction. Keep em coming !
Excellent presentation. On my three jaw I always use an indicator. I can affect quite a change by adjusting the pressure on different adjusting points. Typically mine will range from 0.08 to 0.02mm with some adjustments, but I always use my indicator. I rarely just tighten the three jaw with out checking.
You added the ring feature based off of the old jaw geometry.
I use the technique you already showed on leveling the lathe. Joe P has a good explanation on the geometry. Would like to see how you measure and correct alignment.
This is what you call polishing a turd and is an example of why it is rarely worth the effort
Ben, I question using outside pressure on the jaws instead of inside pressure.
Should you not use a ring on the inside and squeeze the jaws tight, then regrind?
Great video on the chuck grind!.Would love to see a video on alignment and leveling of a lathe, thanks.
Hello Dale Derry Sir, Which Camera DSLR you are using for shooting this Chuck grinding video .
It would be great if you made a video on leveling a lathe, thank you for all your help with these videos.
Dale, next time try a brass taper punch. I get what you were saying about needing a sharp blow. I have found in chuck dissembling a brash punch and steel hammer carefully directed are your best friends.
I would also like to see how to align and level a lathe. The American pacemaker I have has a 54" bed. I would say after 25" the carriage no longer moves because the lathe is so unlevel. So seeing a video where you explain and show how to level a lathe would help me out alot!
Excellent quality grinder (Metabo) you using!
n would be great if possible. Great to have you back again. Kind Regards, Mike
What type of grinding wheel did you use? It looks like you switched to a different grinding wheel before you had finished? What was the reason behind each type (if there was one)?
Thanks
Tubalcain used a vacuum cleaner to suck up the dust. He claimed it did well. Do you have enough room to get a small vacuum device near the grind?
Being a watchmaker I have to scale down everything when it comes to grinding any thing. Run-out is no as serious as you might think since a runout of five thou over eighteen inches is practically nothing when your part you're making is less than a quarter inch long. Ood vieo though it made me think more about lubricants.
I believe the rotation of the lathe should have been reversed for the outside grind. Great video, thanks.
I had the same Problems with my six jaw. Try turning a one inch brass rod about 6” and turn a half inch dia end for the drill chuck . Run the lathe at your 45 RPM with pressure on the brass , using lapping Compound running it back and forth in the tailstock , lap the jaws. Takes time but u can get it much closer to .001 or a half thousand.
Whats up chuck? Ah, I'm just hangin' 'round. I liked this video. Keep'em rollin'
That Chuck was stripped down *Buck* Naked! :)
Ideal educational video!
Yes, please, a video on leveling and aligning a lathe.
what grinding wheel you use?. detail please... thanks a lot
Cool to see you mounted one of those metabo die grinders on a dovetail! I've been using one for years....the slower model gear head die grinder is what I use, & mostly for small endmills & drills.
Grind large amounts w dust pickup, recommended.
Also, I was surprised that the preference to clean was to wipe/move the dust with a rag, not remove via vacuum.
Really enjoy your videos. At the 4:00 minute mark you mentioned cutting a little shoulder in the jaws for grabbing a washer or similar piece. I like that idea and want to do it to my lathe chucks. I would love for you to provide a little detail on this operation. I have a 3 jaw and a 6 jaw chuck for my Monarch EE10 Should I do it to one or both chucks? Keep the great videos coming!
Tom
Hi Tom, thanks for your question. I would only do one chuck, but it’s up to you and your work flow and how much you would use that feature. I use it all the time so I want it on the chuck I use the most. Your lucky because your chucks are small and light. Mine are not so light 😝 lol
Sometimes how it goes, Dale. I've wanted to go back in time to undo a project but that's not how reality works. Learn and move forward. ----Aaron
Bringing the chuck closer to the true center, makes it imbalanced?
Thanks Dale
Thanks for sharing. Recent subscriber. I notice you frequently comment about trolls. Too bad, just seems there are a slew of people out there that have nothing better to do but look for something to criticize, but overlook the 99% of the other information that could or would be useful to them. If the content wasn’t useful, and they already know how to perform whatever operation is being done, why are they watching the content? They can do whatever, however they want when they perform the process. I think constructive criticism is always appreciated, however most seems to be argumentative opinion. I watch another channel OTW, and he commented one time that he could give the winning lottery numbers and someone would comment negatively or give a thumbs down- great analogy.
I value contributors that don’t always get the results they expect, and have the intestinal fortitude to show it. I value learning from successes, failures and different methods or processes. Keep doing what you are doing and I will keep watching.
D M yes but some folks are hyper sensitive to even what was intended to be constructive criticism and think they are being trolled, just sayin'.
Wonderful
Great video Dale...keep it up..i learn alot from your video...thanks...
I would be very interested in a video about aligning and leveling a lathe.
I definitely need to align my lathe, please do that video soon!
Is it normal for the grease to play such a huge role?
what kind of grinding stone you use? I need it be hard I guess?
U see when u come to fabrication and engineering, with the professionals and gurus, in the end there are some deferent idea and believe to sort out a complicated task, which all of them are absolutely right and doing it in their own way ,
Here it's come the way of how each one dose the job
Every one have unique and its own way of doing it which can be decide who u think is the best
Hi Dale , i would like to see how to align and level a lathe.
Cheers from Australia
Troy
I watched, then I read the comments. One comment mentioned the possibility of different pressures of each jaw, which got me thinking.
Initially the jaws were applying their face "lip" or "shoulder" against the aluminum ring. Perhaps you should have first trued those lips. But to true those, perhaps the inside jaw faces should have been clamping something that could allow jaw pressures to be as equal as possible - such as a thick plastic rod. Once the lips are trued then proceed with your grinding. Maybe that would have produced more accuracy in the end.
Fantastic!!!!
Excellent video! Part about lubrication was very interesting.
Please show how you level and align your lathe beds, I've watched Keith Rucker level and align his machines but seem to miss a important step or two.
For grinding, turning rusty material, the outer crust on cast iron, polishing surfaces with emery cloth etc I use the cheapest aluminum kitchen foil I can find as the first layer to protect the way surfaces Dale. Then especially with grinding a fairly wet towel over the aluminum foil. The wet cloth seems to help to catch a whole lot more with less of the fine dust floating around. Even having hardened way's is meaningless if any grit makes it under the carriage, cross or top slide ways. All it does is start to embed into the softer unhardened slide surfaces and then begins scoring and wearing out those hard and expensive to restore precision surfaces.
Yeah I do know at least Bison and probably a few others make specialized chuck grease. One possible reason for it might be because most industrial users would likely be using water based coolants that would help wash any oil out. Since I don't know the all the reasons for using there grease for sure then maybe my logic is faulty. Each to there own methods, but I personally think grease simply retains cutting chips in place inside the chuck while a light coat of way oil helps to float them out of way of the jaw teeth a bit better until your next chuck cleaning. I've tried grease and oil and the grease seems to require much more frequent chuck cleaning since the scroll and jaw teeth starts to bind up sooner. One down side to the oil is the chuck is going to sling some oil the first time you spin it up at a high rpm. Since oil or grease works due to the lubrication wedge it forms I really can't see any type of grease making a chuck more or less repeatable than any other form of lubrication. The lubrication only helps during opening and closing the chuck. Under the full tightening pressures that oil wedge is no longer there. Grease is basically an oil with thickeners plus extra additives where required. So grease isn't going to form a larger supporting lubrication wedge than the oil it's made with. I'm a long way's from being a lubrication expert though.
I was under the impression that there should be no added lubrication to lathe chucks as it attracts chips and dirt and can prematurely wear the chuck. The cast iron used in the chucks apparently has some lubricating properties and negate the need for oil or grease.
Dale, one question do you think it would help if you ground the chuck and restarted the process a second time. I'm thinking that grinding a second surface might change the first grind. Also, you pointed out the scroll was not the greatest. The clamping rings are a good idea but are you concerned that they only true up the chuck for one diameter? Thanks for listening. More videos, Please.
Have look on this - Disassembling and cleaning a three jaws lathe chuck and machining a new back plate
The scroll is the culprit; heavy grease can only take out some of the slop. One of the reasons a Buck chuck is expensive is the care that goes machining the scroll and jaws. Again, you tend to get what you pay for...
Make an alignment video. That would be cool
Hi, would like to see lathe levelling/alignment showing Headstock to bed using a piece of stickout, and how long this stickout matters for practical purposes, before you than has to revert to tailstock alighnments to chuck or collet/lathe centre. And if a bench lathe is bolted down it will be twisting the bed somehow......your version.
Judging from the condition of the scroll, it seems the only time the chuck can be true,is when the diameter of the work piece is exactly the same as the diameter you ground the jaws to.
thanks for being honest
Would love to see how you level and align your lathe :)
Id like to see a video on setting up a lathe.
Please show the lathe alignment video
well, looks like parts of this chuck are beyond any repair. biggest problem here might be the severe pitting on the spiral ring and original jaws, you will never get consistent results with that. dunno if there are spare parts available, should def be considered because 6 jaws with fine adjustment are pretty expensive to begin with.
Align and level lathe video. Thanks
Could you make another scroll?
Another great video yes on level and align a lathe
I would like you to tackle this chuck again and take more time on inside and outside gripping methods .
i think you probably have a scroll problem. changing of the runout by removing and replacing the same piece of stock would show up an inconsistent clamp. the scroll may be moving in its seat. try using a different tightening technique and see if that results in a change in runout. also chucking up different diameters of stock would show up worn areas of the scroll.some production machines worked with the same size stock for years.i seriously doubt that lubricant is your problem.
I tried to true up my lathe chuck once. Then I bought a new one. hehehe What a terribly annoying thing it was trying to eliminate the run-out. I can see the same frustration in you that I felt back then when doing that job.
I put wheel bearing grease in my chuck. It STILL splatters my clothes and everything nearby with tiny droplets of grease even months later. It's especially bad at higher RPMs. Does using WD grease eliminate that problem?
Dale
Seond all the others wanting you do the lathe alignement video. Please!
Sweet
So the grease you used gave you less runout huh? Does the word credibility mean anything to you?
I would be interested in the leveling video. 😁
Show how to align and level the lathe, please. Allways intresting videos!
The problem is that you did not make the chuck body concentric in the first place. As a result your grind is only valid for that exact jaw setting. Any other opening size will not be concentric.
I would love to see how to align and level a lathe
Fast cut / edited videos are fine for Action Films........not for Machine Tool Videos , where one misses out on some details required......speeded up videos while grinding and not knowing how may times fast it is !
Are you related to Eric Clapton? Just kidding. I'm trying to make my lathe more precise too, and well, I'm about to write a book about what a shouldn't have done. LOL. Greetings from Brazil!
Maybe this is why the chuck was in the condition it was when you got it.
When I want precision I always tighten the same scroll position screw that I tram in
Aligning and leveling pls....
soy de mexico el desarollo de tus videos setan de 10/ok
Good video. When dismantling rusted old equipment I use the pick end of a body hammer to tap the bolts working them loose while turning then alternately in both directions. I would like to see your take on lathe alignment. If you can talk about lathes with removable head stocks.
Ah yes, the internet 'experts', they are never wrong lol.
Let's make a new scroll! Haha, that has to be insanely difficult.