Turning Accurate Conical Features.......5 different ways !!! Take a Look
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
- For such a short video, this presentation is packed full of options and methods to setup and cut, accurate conical features on the lathe. Watch it all the way thru. Enjoy.
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I don’t like scratching lines with callipers either, so I bought myself a cheap marking calliper from one of the Chinese websites, it even came with a carry case & spare scribe.
For around £10 (under $20) I find it really useful.
Unfortunately it’s not digital, but it doesn’t do me any harm to keep my hand in with analogue measuring equipment from time to time.
Great to see you back again Joe, I really hope you’re not pushing yourself too hard.
Take care.
You are a born teacher. I’ve said in here before that I’m a welder / fabricator of 30 years and for the last few years I’ve took a new role in the same company as a Toolmaker. I work in a small team with a couple of good guys but your videos are so informative. Thank you!
Glad to help.
Absolutely magical Joe, I have learned so much from your presentations, this is a superb shop Gem for a newbie like me. Kind regards from your 71, year old apprentice.
Glad you enjoyed it.
Another great video that I have saved for quick reference. I am at the age where if I don't use something frequently, I look back at notes to make sure I have the procedure correct
You're not an engineer Joe , you're an artist.
As a turner for over 40 years in all sorts of materials from steel , bronze , and currently , plastic , it's a pleasure and an education to watch your videos.
It would be a shame to miss the opportunity of this mans knowledge of the craft ,
so when he puts it up there for free even ! jump at the chance as I have , you will be better
for it . I am 73 and just enjoy this.
I got you beat! I am 76, and fully agree with you.
D-d/L= Taper , now you can do anything! D big diameter...d small diameter....L = length
I prefer this method over all others. Mostly because I don't trust angles on the compound
Blimey!! This was a brilliant lesson. Just yesterday I was battling to get this right.
You make this look so easy! It does take practice but I am persistent! Thanks for the info!😊
You are welcome!
Glad you are back on your feet. Enjoyed the reminders of different ways to skin a cat as it were. I have forgotten a few of those in my 74 years but also a couple of new ones. Have you tried a hermaphrodite caliper....that is what I have used instead of a caliper to mark a point. Something about using a caliper for marking makes me grit my teeth ;-)
Joe, thank you for demonstratibg these tips. I suspect that many of us will be trying at least some of them before we forget them! ;)
Great to see so many practical techniques to get this done. You are such a treasure.
All good methods to get you close Joe . I have used your other method before to get them dead spot on , taking into account the radius of the tool & tangent point . 👍
You're really an excellent teacher. 👏 I learned a lot from you... Thanks sir 😊.
It's my pleasure.
You are a Master of your craft, and I love watching you work. Thank you for the excellent videos.
Many thanks.
As always...Simple, Elegant, Doable.
These are very good workable tips. Thanks Joe
Wow - that was entertaining and DENSE - I'll watch that again about 10 times- thanks so much
13 well packed minutes. :)
Hey Joe, great to see you back on your feet... I spent about 6 months on the couch after a motorcycle incident a couple years back - don't take walking for granted anymore
😆
Its amazing how fast the rest of your body can start breaking down when you just sit around. I too won't take mobility for granted either.
Thankyou Joe, loved it! So good to see you back at the lathe again! 🙂👍
Part time for now, but it feels good here too.
Always a learning experience
10:40 is exactly what I was looking for
Thank you. I find your videos very informative and enlightening.
Glad you like them!
Great job Joe, on taking a task that can be difficult in practice and making it manageable. There's a lot of info in this one-
Reminds me of hitting the diameters/angles in cutting a chamber reamer.
Thanks!
Love those tips! Enjoyed watching, thanks.
Joe, you've just blown me away with those simple (when you know it) methods of producing the required taper on a part. The bank is going to be full!
Glad you liked it!
Good to see you back in the shop. Take Care.
Thanks Joe. All good info.
Thanks for dropping by Mark.
You have some great videos. I've been a toolmaker for 18 years (self employed 11 of those year) and I still learn plenty from you.
I definitely agree, Joe has some great tricks up his sleeve.
A person should never get to the point where they feel there is nothing left to learn.
I'm sure we can all teach each other a few things. It probably just depends on what kind of work you do. I've always been heavily into custom, prototype and development work, with some repair thrown in. I've enjoyed it all.
@@grntitan1 it is the custom of the not very smart people, to think they have reached that point....
Very well explained techniques and enjoyable to watch.
Good luck from Spain!!
Thank you very much!
Always more to learn and be refreshed - thanks Joe, great stuff.
Always good to have a wide selection of options to best fit a particular scenario. Thanks for the tips!
Glad it was helpful!
Another great lesson now put in time and space from a true professional! Thank you Joe!!
Great to see you back - thanks, content is superb.
Much appreciated!
Great practical shop ticks and tricks as always. Joe, thanks for taking the time to post this information.
The 6th way is to use a CNC lathe. Great video Joe.
That was a great set of tips! Thank you. I'm about to make some sets of bevel gears so I'll try these methods out and see what I like.
thanks for the refresher on such good techniques.
Like your video on the different methods!
Want to mention I had seen a video from the UK where an eBay China gear down motor (one of the 2~3 rpm 12 vdc jobs) was used to drive a shop-made socket which fit over the compound knob (on my old SB 10K). Provides very smooth drive this way. I added a reverse to the one I built so it moves in both directions and simply used some pipe PVC for a handle which holds the motor, wiring, switch, etc.
Another great way of showing us how to do things.
Another great video Joe! Just watching at the end there reminded me that I recently learned that there are two ways to measure depth on a vernier! Blew me away.
Another trick from out of your sleeve and up mine! Thank you!
Woody
Thanks Joe, you always give great technical advice on how to measure and turn things. I would have to say of the half a dozen people that I watch on here on machining yours has always given the most information on how to get to exact spec. Not being negative to anyone that takes the time to make and upload these video's but I would say you and mrpete222 have given me the most information on how to do thing as a hobby machinist working out of a shed.
That said I wish I had known the little nub trick about a week ago when I was making a new handle for my quick change tool post, I left myself without a way to get an accurate measurement and had to blend it in which obviously means I would not have hit a spec'd measurement if it would have been that critical but I try even if it's not important so when it does become important I can do it.
Critical isn't always required, but its good to have options.
Many thanks for sharing your expertise.
My pleasure!
Great tips, learned a lot of tips I wasn't aware of especially for saving time.
I'm not a machinists these tips will be put to good use,thanks for your efforts🤗😎🤗😎
Thanks Joe, another lesson learned. Good to see you on both feet 😉
Cheers Neil
I very much enjoyed a video that you put out Jo regarding turning precisely angled conical features. So your video on setting the compound to precise angles was usefull coupled with that last demonstration of what to do if you need to meet a set diameter externally as well rather than working to stock diameter. Bit of a faff to set up but it all worked like a treat. Precision angle jionting two precision diameters to each other over a precise distance. Really pleased thankyou.
Glad it was helpful!
Thank You Sir for the video. Always enjoy them.
Thanks for these tips Joe. These will really help!
My old metric starrett calipers have an attachment to turn them into a depth mic that I use a lot. I used that scribed line trick to turn a bunch of barbs in peek plastic with a form tool recently. I have one of those compass with the hooked end for registering on the faced end. Pretty handy really. A lot of the stuff I picked up over the years is very old, but still useful.
Thanks for tips hope you healing well
It is good stuff, I have used a dial indicator on a mag base in lieu of a depth stop or a caliper when I have had an old manual lathe with no dro.
As always great tips ! 👍
Excellent as always. Thank you Joe
Scratching a layout line on a part, is what cheap calipers are for.
Thanks for sharing 🙏
Top shelf stuff. Thank you Joe. Kind regards from John Spargo in Cape Town
Greetings John.
thanks for the upload joe, much appreciate.
greetings, ben.
Very interesting - I always learn something new on this channel. Thank you so much!
Fascinating approach to problem solving :)
Great to hear! Thanks for stopping by.
Great video Joe! I learned something as always. 👍👍
Hey Joe Good to see you. Good stuff, things a guy can use. Be safe
Hi Joe, thanks for this video, really useful for us guys just starting out! I’d really like to see you make a collet to fit an unknown spindle taper, buttress thread and all!
I’m not a fan of using calipers to scribe lines either!sets my teeth on edge when I see other RUclipsrs do it.
Bad practice true, especially since the calipers are not typical sharpened to a point, so the line is all messed up or too wide. There exists actual marking calipers that have sharp pointy jaws with carbide inserts for just this purpose :)
Hermaphroditic calipers were invented just for this type of work,
Hi joe greetings from australia, love your hints and tips ,you make it so easy to do, very uncomplicated. Just wondering if you ever have done anything for us on setting up to turn parrallel, or maybe how to make our own test bar to fit into the headstock morse taper. Thankyou for all your efforts , it is really appreicated. Before computers this information was really hard to get other than word of mouth, that wasn't allways right anyway. Just can't thank you enough.
love your stuff i learn allot watching you thanks again
Awesome, thank you!
Thanks for the video Joe.
Thanks Joe from New Jersey
I lived in Morris County for 37 years. Randolph, Budd Lake, Parsippany, Hackettstown
very good video joe
Many years ago after working in a machine shop for sometime, I realized why I should have paid more attention in trigonometry.
Trig is the icing on the cake. Geometry is the cake.
i wish you was my Teacher......salute from Damascus - Syria
Thanks. I take that as a compliment.
Very interesting way to measure the "lenth" without a DRO. tnx
Thank you Joe great tips
Great, thanks Joe
Ty Joe 🥧 Pie
Interesting and much appreciated.
Great info Joe, thanks man...
Many thanks for the tips!
Good knowledge, thanks joe!
SNL Coneheads skit to follow 😉
Great video, Joe!
From France of course. :)
@@joepie221 Wow, Zappa reference
Just no ring tossing, this is a G rated audience lol
always great information Joe 3.14...cheers from Florida, Paul
Greetings Paul.
@@joepie221 you are a big inspiration for Me Joe....and I thank you so much, bought a 13" South Bend Tool Room lathe with taper attachment [1942 build]in July, getting back to machine work after a long absence .......found the spindle had 2 tenths runout on OD and 1 tenth on ID....pretty happy with that too......take care my Sensei......Paul
I just got into cat skinning and only know of two ways as of now.
I would be happy to learn of other cat skinning methods as I am a noob.
Lots of nice tips there. TY
Thanks Joe
Nothing like learning old school!
Great tips as usual .
Hey Joe have you ever had an apprentice? Just curious because it seems like you enjoy teaching. If anyone had the opportunity to apprentice under you I'm quite sure they'd learn a lot ....
Thanks Joe great video
Glad you enjoyed it
Best wishes from 🇵🇱
great video on different methods getting a taper. As new hobby metal lathe user, this was helpful.
However, i wish you would have went more in depth on how to create a smooth taper during the sliding action. Ive recently cut some tapers but have trouble cutting them smooth because my finger action to move the slide is not smooth is my guess and I have to keep stopping.
Maybe i just need to do it more times to learn the smooth action of it.
Learning to cut a long taper using the compound is an acquired skill. The very first thing you need to embrace is using 2 hands to do it. Don't try to turn the dial 360 degrees with one hand. That will influence the gibs on the compound and leave ripples on the part. Stopping will leave lines. Pass the crank smoothly from one hand to the other without pushing or pulling on the compound itself. Keep all your force true to the center of the screw and the taper should work out just fine.
If you use a cutting insert with a known radius on the cutting edge, with a little bit of plane geometry and trigonometry, you can calculate for the theoretical sharp corner of your cutter insert and you can with normal measuring of diameters and lengths, turn accurate tapers and cone shapes easily within .001" without using any guess work and/ or scratch lines, using those offset dimensions. This is for manual hand turning as , I am sure, CNC machines will calculate compensations for the radius size on the cutting insert. You can even estimate these offsets with no calculations if you accurately draw it @ 100 to 1, so eg., a .006" radius on the cutting tool becomes .600" on your drawing and measure the offsets x and y with a scale to get a sharp corner dimension. As Joe emphasized, you must know your start, stop positions with the carriage accurately and with repeatability., setting carriage stops and 'zero" cross slide, and compound positions is everything.
ruclips.net/video/PmOEjJIhfv4/видео.html
Edit.... i.e. not eg. sorry.
Thank You !
The challenge with using the compound slide is you loose your digital readings. I made up a block with a vertical hole and a large flat face on it. This then bolts to my tailstock on the operator side. I have a heavy piece of rectangular key steel that I have drilled a hole in one end. I set this guide bar to the desired angle using my readout and a DTI. Easy calculation to do. If you do it over 6 inches or so you can move the saddle along six inches and the toolpost in the desired amount and set the keysteel at zero at both points. I dont use the compound slide because it voids all the tool settings using a DRO. Then to simply machine a taper use your power feed and a DTI. Keep the needle on the DTI on zero or any other preset number and the lathe will generate a long uniform taper. Ideal when you need to make matching tapers as on a propeller and shaft. The initial work required to make a block and have it easily attach to the tailstock does take a bit of time but once you have done it the time is paid back easily. Almost like a copy lathe.
Instead of scribing with caliper could you scribe with tool giving exact known position on dro?
You could, just don't go deep with the mark.
Thank you!
Thanks so much for that step by step turning angle;
My question is how can i set my tool position in an event where am using a swivel tool holder ,
Secondly how can i set my determined angle and by which tool
Useful video again Joe. How do you go about putting radii on tapered features, like say on the end of a location pin that blends on the taper?
Thanks Joe 👍👍😎👍👍
You bet
As usual a jersey boy leads the way lol nice job joe thanks
Thanks.
Great lessons! Questions…lathe tool dead sharp, or is there a nose radius? RPM/Feed for turning the aluminum stock?
Greeting Chuck. A truly dead sharp tool ( nose radius ) is very hard to get a good finish with. I do break the edge for things like this, but only to remove the razor sharp edge. All the turning here was done by hand, so I can't comment on the feed. Feed for finish is usually driven by the nose radius of the tool. The RPM is never lower than 770 for aluminum and that can ( and will ) change with greater surface contact from a form tool. Since extremely sharp tools are hard to get good finishes with, its OK to establish gage or termination points first and finish with a radiused tool to get the surface finish desired.