Your method of machining is based on what is expedient and required, no more. You have spent a great deal of time over the years eliminating the BS to arrive at what works and is timely. Your comment about liking to work with a zero instead of a number backs up my theory. You, like me and almost anyone else, can remember a zero. It's not an arbitrary positive or negative number spawned in the depths of the universe that is almost impossible to recall with consistent accuracy. Zero is simple and direct much like your methods of using the tool or machine. Kudos to you Sir.
Thank you for clarifying something that always seemed completely stupid to me and that is the preoccupation with the compound that too many people seem to have. Cutting threads from left to right in reverse is simply the bomb too. Love your common sense approach!!!
That was one of the coolest tips I've seen. It totally eliminates any guess work of using the compound. It's amazing how something so simple can make life so much easier.
Someday, someone will rewrite the book to include all this stuff. Shop teachers nowadays should watch you tube once in a while. But thank God for shop teachers everywhere. I'm grateful.
There is an book by Martin Cleeve called "screw cutting in the lathe", part of the Workshop Practice series, that lists a number of different techniques, one similar to this video but not your away from the chuck way.
Always good to see you in the shop, no matter what color shirt, demonstrating real life machining. You're a cut above the rest so to speak Joe. Thank you!!!!
Hi Joe I'm just the old retired guy that plays in the shop when it's not too hot or too cold. In other words, not a machinist. I was a little lost at first about running the cross slid in and running the compound in and setting to zero. When my brain made the connection that we were setting the depth with the cross slid and running the compound in to that depth and setting it to zero, I said WOW, I just learned something new from Joe. Thanks Buddy
Hi joe im really enjoying your videos. Specially since I'm not a machinist or engineer. My grandfather was an engineer in Gibraltar back in the day when ships was built. I admired him alot. He was given a large medal from the Gibraltar government for his long term years he spent with the company. During the war up until the middle of the 70s. he started from the very bottom and worked all the way up to being one of the bosses. He treated all his Co workers with respect & he was liked by all. And when he came to retirement it was the guys that put in for his great service of gratitude of thanks that the government gave him a gold medal. The ships he helped built was astonishing as well as the planes he put back into service after the second world war.. I' miss him so much. I wish he was still around to share his experience with me on working with a lathe.. But I'm certainly learning alot from you joe. I can't wait to get my new engineering lathe up and running. Your videos and your long term experience is worth a great deal and is so valuable to people like me that' has a great deal to learn. . Thanks so much for these videos and the time you put into them and share. I hope some day I get to be proficient. On my lathe. A thousand thanks joe. Your the best buddy. Hope you get well soon my friend.
The more recent model engineering type machining videos are really awesome for sure. I have totally enjoyed them. But this type of real-world machining, theory + practical videos is what I always loved about the Joe Pie channel. I have been on a kick lately of going back watching some of the older ones again.
As ever; you don’t merely show what’s needed but go to great lengths to explain “WHY” it’s needed. This is always the best way for anyone to grasp the idea. Fascinating video. I enjoy your work, and always look forward to the next video. Thanx.
Thank you. My style of teaching comes from my preferred style of learning. I am a very visual person when it comes to grasping new methods. I also remember how it felt to be presented with new material and try to keep it enjoyable.
Good explanation of a great method! I came across that method several years ago and thought it was brilliant--simple, direct and no math. I wondered why more people don't use it. The tidbit about using the relief cut to measure the PD is genius: two wires are much easier to manage than three. Big thumbs up!
Keep that one a secret. That's good trick when someone looses a wire out of the set, or you want to mess with the next guy in line. Thanks for the comment.
Joe I just subscribed a day or two ago. I love your professional setup approaches that you show in your videos and the way you video them also. I have been a machinist for 50 years and can appreciate what you show. Proper setup is one of the most important things in machining. Cutting chips does not make you great machinist. Setup, technique and efficiency does. You have good knowledge and teaching skills. Nice to see that being shared with the rest of the world. Every time I see someone threading into the work I feel the stress just watching. I don't know why anyone would put that stress on themselves plus take the chance of ruining a piece. I sometimes put an indicator against the toolpost to get my depth of cut. That takes a different setup for thread length if critical. I also use the method you just described without an indicator except I use my crossslide (that has a thread stop) to retract my tool. I still use the compound to feed in except for my finish cut. They both work no trig needed.
I have enjoyed the heck out of your videos because I love math - trig, algebra, calc... all of it. But I really love the short cuts that allow you to do the work without resorting to trig. Nothing like throwing away the calculators and using good old Euclidean geometry to make it quick and easy. By the way, thanks to you I now have balls of steel in the shop. No kidding! After watching your video on measuring holes using ball bearings I got a bunch of different sized ball bearings and have been finding all sorts of ways to use them to help measure things. I guess that's the definition of "inspirational". You have inspired me to be better. Thanks
You're a great teacher Joe. The bit where you show how no trig is needed I had to watch twice before getting the aha moment, that's always a good moment, thanks.
What a well-crafted and planned lesson and demo! Good job, Joe. If it was your intention to confuse and mislead us with ambiguity, technical double-speak, and unfathomable jargon, you failed miserably. Combined with your previous lessons on reverse threading and "angle" advancement with the compound slide, you've given me a useful education on the single-point threading process.
Well said Paul, but I'm a little slow here, cause I'm soooo confused!!!! Maybe cause I'm a newb. But I do like what this man is putting out there! I'll have to watch it a bunch of times I guess. Wish me luck! Razor!
It seems to me there are two types of machinists, those who only do things the way they were shown, and those with a brain. You are of course in the second class! Keep 'em coming, it is a good teacher that encourages people to try to break away from ages of hide bound, thoughtless, follow-my-lead dogma.
I shall relate a little story many years ago I was demonstrating threading at an exhibition and using the straight in method, several oldies commented that you can't do that, it's not the way I was taught. Then another piped up that he was taught to top slide feed but on his first job after his apprenticeship the foreman told him to stop wasting his time and go straight in, he never looked back.Moral of the story,never believe the first person who tells you something, at least not without further research.Oh and follow my leader is how you get myths, so THINK for yourself.
Well done Joe. I started my working life as a machinist, served an apprenticeship and stayed in the trade for ten more years. Great to see your channel keeps my brain working.
I appreciate your style of instruction. I took metal shop in the mid 70s and loved it. I have recently purchased a small lathe mill combo and am using the techniques I have learned as I try to desires after a stressful work day. Please keep up the great videos. (Lubbock native)
Joe, as a licensed, registered, and certified moron I can honestly tell you that I instantly understood what you were trying to convey. I don't know a lick about machine shop stuff, but it seems like a pretty simple concept to grasp (without even finishing the video yet). Use a part as a back stop, turn 1 wheel back x amount say 3 turns, now goto another wheel set at some funny angle and see how many turns it takes to get to your backstop say 5 turns then make a mark or set a zero, now back way off, get all setup and start turning the second wheel till you get back to your zero. Seems to me that there might be a great lack of common sense out there or over complication of a great many things, but to me maybe just a simple foundational understanding of how ones tool(machine) works is all anyone ever really needs.
HUH WOW Mr Piecsynski I can't wait till I get a chance to use this info. I sit here like ET sucking it all in and loving every second of it. I never realized how the width of the tip of the threading tool was so important, I do NOW. John Fink
Another brilliant video Joe. Just a few suggestions that some viewers may find handy to achieve the same goal without arithmetic etc. At 16:40, with the tool just touching the workpiece, set both dials to zero; back off the tool using the TOP slide, then using the CROSS slide advance the tool by the desired depth of thread. This depth is read directly from the cross slide dial with no arithmetic necessary; then reset the cross slide dial to zero. Cut the groove by advancing the tool with the TOP slide until its dial again reads zero. The tool is now in the position it will be in when the last cut has been completed, both slide dials will be reading zero, and the groove will be the same form as the thread and in the finished location. Withdraw the tool using the TOP slide and move saddle along to “start-cutting-thread” position but pause the tool when over a section of work where the thread is to be cut. Using the TOP slide, position the tool to just touch workpiece. This will eliminate several passes cutting air, or gouging the workpiece! With the saddle in the start-cut position the depth of the scratch cut is applied using the TOP slide, and from now on the top slide handle will be rotated in a clockwise direction only. Depth of cut is applied only by the TOP slide; the CROSS slide is used to disengage the tool at the end of each cut and the CROSS slide is moved back to zero on the dial when the saddle is positioned ready to take the next cut. When the last cut is completed, both the top slide and cross slide dials will again read zero. With this method it is not necessary to remember any top slide readings before adding on the depth of cut, and again using your method, only the depth of the thread cut needs to be read from a chart. No trigonometry, arithmetic or numbers need to be remembered other than zero on the two dials. I hope this may be of interest to some viewers.
Spent my Navy time and most of my working life in tool shop and heavy machine shops. Now retired and volunteer at the aircraft restoration center at Kalamazoo Avation Museum. Love your Vidios. Darl Gilliland
Hi Joe - Enjoy all of your videos very much. You said, "Whatever works for you", so I'd like to share mine. Back in the day in a busy shop where we were cutting all kinds of random threads every day, I never messed around with compound slide angles at all - just left it 90 degrees to the cross-slide. Sharpened the tool to 55 degrees (our part of the world dealt with a lot of English stuff). Then just take each cut, 5 thou in, and 3 thou on the compound. Then to finish, 2 thou in and 1 on the compound. Quick and easy. Got to keep the boss happy, and just get 'er done.
Thanks for the expedited response. You have a special talent to teach commonly used techniques and explain why things go wrong - brilliant. You also reveal time-saving tricks of the trade. It is very much appreciated. I look forward to watching your videos.
Another great video, I am just a hobbiest and you sure have a knack for teaching, even at my non pro level I am learning so much. This is my new technique for threading
Woody W. Joe, like you I don't thread with the compound, this is the best, most concise, vid. on threading I have ever seen. Short and to the point. As far as threading away from the head stock, why would anyone do otherwise? I cannot recall how I discovered it but it is one of the biggest stress relievers known to man! Your videos are incredible, please keep them coming.
Thank you Joe, another good and valuable insight into a different way to screw cut ensuring accuracy. Like you I don't use the 30 deg on my compound slide, I plunge straight in because that was the way I was taught in my apprentice. Having said that it is always nice to learn different ways to do a job. Thank you for sharing. Bernie from the UK.
Hi Joe, thanks a lot for this gift of wisdom. I learned a lot again, try it out next time. This in combination with inverted cut is a great leap forward. Thanks again, Thomas
Thanks for the video. I like your thought process, how to use the machine to do the work for you. This makes sense to my CNC trained mind. Would love to see a video on how you do OD/ID threads left and right handed go from the head stock out. Have a day
Hey Joe! I love the board! I don't see many other youtubers using a board, and it really helps to understand what's going on. Between that and the hands on demos, it's really effective instruction. Keep up the good work and great videos. God knows how many video apprentices you've got out there. ;-)
Great video Joe! I am going to go back and watch your threading technique video again. It would be nice to see this same exercise with your technique for a side by side comparison. For the old guys with the muscle memory it may not do anything for but us newbies it provides a different way to try something that may help us from breaking the part or our machines. Just a thought. Thanks again!
John, This video is intended to show you that you don't need trig to calculate thread depth, and that thread depth is not a correct indicator of a good thread. For you old guys with your muscle memory...good luck. I personally would rather do it right and not need trig to do so.
Very nice. I see I have a bit of experimenting to do and maybe even try the away from the chuck threading if that is possible with my old Monarch 14C. Your presentation was very clear and gives me a whole new perspective on threading! Thank you Joe Pi!
...Just recently found your channel...thanks for making these excellent videos...! I've spent all my working years doing electrical and welding stuff...but now 'retired' and looking to get into some machining....most of my welding was as 'the Welder' in a couple or 3 machine shops (both fabrication and repair)...so I'm familiar with all the machines....just need to learn how to run them effectively....
Wow...great video and great comments/answers....FYI, you just rained on my parade...lol, my 10ee has a stop that can be set on the cross slide so you can always return to zero after pullout....I was a happy lad!! Now u show me don't touch the cross slide after zero is set! SIMPLE SMART feed with the compound!!....also my 10ee has the ELSR setup, but once I start threading away from the chuck it is really not necessary to use.....more rain....LOL.
Hey Chuck. Your setup would be ideal if you choose to use the slide to retract the tool. It really doesn't matter which you use. The end result will be the same. Its just easier to use only one dial. I thread straight in with the slide exclusively. This video was for those guys that use the compound and rely on trig.
Been using this method for about a year now. What a time saver! Takes all the guess work out of threading on a lathe. Thanks for all the great information! 👍
Ya know, after 100,000 hours in this trade, I do sometimes struggle with the mindset of the guys just starting out. I try to make my videos clear enough for all to understand, but things I don't even think about anymore are so embedded that I may miss something, or assume its common knowledge once in a while. I am actually finding myself more in touch with my viewers after 6 months of this than I was back in June. I'm patient. It does get frustrating when someone read a book and challenges 40 years of industrial experience. Its OK though, I will be the first to admit I don't know everything. A bunch, but not everything. Keep those comments coming and thanks for watching.
I'm in the same boat with my welding Joe. I've been under the hood for the better part of 40+ years too, started as green as they come, to having 100 guy's your in charge of, holding every certificate known, and guy's fresh out of school trying to tell you your wrong, or don't know what your doing. Hang in there buddy, keep throwing out those vids...we've got your back!
Hey Joe. another Gr8 video out for us Newbies to watch!.. awesome technique... I don't have much trouble doing the trig for threads, but I know a Lot of blokes who do... so on their behalf thanks so much!, best wishes to you and yours...
Hi joe, from what i am seeing and hearing my method of thread cutting is waaay different from the rest. I too believe in the threading tool "flat" being as small as possible, but my compound slide stays linear to the bed of the lathe. We use a formula (for metric) 1.3 x pitch to calculate final depth. When cutting the thread (also towards headstock) i use my compound slide taking 3 cuts per depth adjustment. One centre, one left and one right. The thread is then cut so that the crest and root are the same width. I am in this line of work just over 5 years. I was taught this method and it works for me. But great videos Joe it really helps a lot. P.S. this method is great with two and three start threads as you simply turn the amount of pitch on your compound slide to start the next threading cycle.
Glad I watched this again. i have a screw on chuck, sucks to be me with an Atlas lathe made in the 50's, but I paid $125 then added a 6" 3 jaw and a 4 jaw that costs the same as the lathe for each. Still learning from ALL of your vids. Thanks, Happy New Year from Canada.
This method works great! I ground a .005 tip and then easily and accurately cut five 1/2-28 x 1/2 inch practice pieces. Since I always fumble with the wires, I cheated and checked those pieces using a high-quality nut made by a gunsmith. I'd really like to try your technique of cutting towards the tailstock, but my lathe has a threaded spindle. Thank you for sharing this, and many other tips and tricks.
My dear sir, you just thought me how to thread on a lathe! I never did threading on a lathe before, but your video has thought me well. And I absolutely agree that thread cutting away from the spindle is far much better than towards the spindle. Thank you so very much
Thanks for watching. be sure to also watch my other videos - "Threading on a manual Lathe - Best Technique ever" and "Engaging a halfnut made easier". These will expand your new knowledge of threading. Good luck.
Dang no wonder I always have to fiddle around to get a good thread fit even if I feed in the distance required in the spec! I'm learning a lot from this channel. Thanks so much!
im just starting to learn how to use my lathe. I got me a 14 -40 lathe and all of your videos have been very informative and i really appreciate the break down and demonstrations you provide. Thank you
Hi Joe. Oh very neat! Have you noticed that once one understands something it is simple? It would have been a privilege to have been one of your apprentices. Cheers. BobUK.
A great video Joe real interesting it is nice to have metods explained the shown in operation it puts it into your head properly Thanks for doing such a series. God bless.....
Love your style Joe.... I'll be using this as an absolute equal second to what I've always done and that's been to use trig. with having figured out a quick way of setting the compound to very fine decimal degrees.... But even still, your method of setting the run length of the thread has got to be quicker and easier and far less fiddling around to achieve the same thing. I've not seen anything you may have done on Metric Threading which I do a lot. I've set up a sure fire system of disengaging the half nuts when necessary and checking the thread with perhaps a 'screw on' and then re engaging the entire gear train to restart further passes if the need be, with no loss of position. A much needed skill and happy to pass on any info to anyone who needs to do the same or like all of us, has accidentally disengaged those nuts and then cursed and started a new piece. I'm sure you'd have your own methods here which I'd certainly like to see.... Excellent video. Thanks.
When you get at the end of your thread, I allways backup my cross slide at the same time I disengage the screw. And bring it back to zero. I wish you had taken the thread measurement using the three wire method to confirm you were still in tolerance range after your .005'' cleanup pass. Just for the sake of viewer confirmation. You did well!
I just did a 2.5in 12tpi thread and i did a lot of looking around first at different techniques because i had not single pointed since High school. Since i am making both the female and male pieces and they will only ever be used with one another i figured i can make the second part pick up the slack of the first if i need to. I started with the compound to feed in my cuts but was getting a wired stepping pattern on the back face of my thread. So then after looking around a bit more I found people saying that they just feed in with the cross slide and dont bother with the compound with finer threads. gave that a shot and it turned out very pretty. so I am not sure what was going on with my compound maybe a little bit of play somewhere and not chasing the thread precisely, first time threading on my old logan 820 so i will have to figure that out.
Cutting thread on the machine has always been the best to do for me. Metric or imperial thread, it is the best to do on a lathe. Love doing threads. The best ever was the day I did a double start thread.
Thanks for all of the free training and tricks in all of your videos, Joe! I'm just a beginner, but this looks like a really handy, repeatable method, especially when reversed to do inside threads. Thanks again! /Dave
Yup, I learned something and with all the threads I've chased, that getting down to the nuts has been a challenge. My life just got a bit easier, Thanks!
I have been studying this and have to agree this is a REEEEALLY smart way to do this. Let the precision of the lathe do the math. Glad this is still on here for reference.
Awesome video as usual, I call it the ZERO TO ZERO technique. Only one suggestion to make it even better would be to pan out a bit so people can also see all the dials and your hand motions to make it even more obvious. Love all your videos, you're a great teacher.
Joe i really like how you present your ideas and tricks of the trade, i was in the trade for awhile and it never dawned on me to thread toward the tail stock or use the crossslide in the way you did in this video so i learned something for sure THX !!
I always remove .005 from the stock O.D diameter for example if you'r making 0.5 inch thread make the O.D diameter 0.495 You will get very good thread .
Thanks Joe, another great video. I have some evil mind poison that I think you will appreciate :) I was cutting a thread a few weeks ago, and lost one of my thread wires. I needed this thread to fit the nominal size rather than a random nut I had floating around. I started hunting around for something to use as a substitute, and noticed that the amount of the wire that projects outside the thread is less than the range of the DP. So I simply put wires on one side of the part, and mic'd it. I cut the depth so it was near the smaller end of the DP range and it came out dead on. You have to make sure there is no or very minimal burr, and it obviously wont work no a close fit thread, but it worked perfectly on a 1/2-20 nominal thread.
You were very close to the one wire solution and didn't even realize it. Mic the OD of the starting diameter. Divide that by 2. Place a wire in the thread and measure again. Subtract the radius calculated in the first step from this value. Multiply the remainder by two and that would be a 3 wire value. 3 wires is just convenient, not a requirement. Good improv.
Hi Joshua, if you loose a wire and happen to have some copper wire of the right diameter, wrap it around the part like a spring and measure that. Advantage is you don't have to hold any wires, so you wont drop them in the black hole called a chip tray.
Hi Joe: that is an awesome tip for setting depth of cut. Will try it. I like the "dashboard" gauge setup that Keith Fenner uses. Probably keep that as a backup / double check. I would be interested in seeing the 3 wire measurement process. if you wanted to demo that! Keep up the great work, and thanks so much for your effort.
Hi Joe: I am not a professional machinist, just a home shop hack. But for the few threads I have single pointed I usually use a sharp HSS ground tool and flatten the nose slightly with a stone. I use charts to determine the OD and depth of cut required. I place an undercut at termination, and then scratch cut the part. Zero both cross feed and compound dials. I place and zero a dial indiactor - stand on the apron indicator on the tool post. As I feed in with compound the dial gives me the movement of the tool. Once I get very close - say within a few thou, I may move the cross slide in to allow it to clean up the threads as you described - but usually only a few thou. I zero both cross feed and compound because I use the method taught in many manuals of using the cross feed to back the tool away while you retract it. I have a thread on chuck, but would like to try your inverted tool idea sometime. I don't know that the cutting force will spin that chuck off... they stick pretty good sometimes. I use a nut or if possible the part being fitted to as a gauge.
Hi Joe: No. I get the idea in principle, but have never looked up how to do it. I learned some basics of lathe operation in my teacher education program 20 years or more ago - I am a vehicle tech by trade - and did a night school course a while later. Both were mostly based on turning to size. Threading I rather taught myself with books and videos like yours, which I never really had success with until I bought my own lathe about 7 years ago. It still is a challenge as I don't do it often.
Thanks for sharing! I found it quite precise and informative. I don't do this for a living and I know a little, but far far from a professional. And I could follow you extremely well. Thanks Joe Pie!
Hello Joe, Always something new to learn. I had no idea my 60 degree threading tools were supposed to have a flat on the point. I am going to inserts whereas I have been using a South Bend thread cutter (the 3/4 round triangular cutter that you just grind the top of and advance it on the holder. HSS.) so I will have to see if they have a flat under the magnifying glass. Take care. Doug
Another great video, with interesting content, keep it up, we need more detailed accurate information on cutting threads as well as many other machining videos. thanks again
I hope you know that your a star Joe between mainly yours and just a few other vids you helped me set up and keep as small Machining department running, comprising of a bridgeport milling machine a harrison m300 lathe and there is an EDM machine that I dabbled with, that they've now upgraded, though they took another guy on to do that because I was snowed under with work tasks. I really liked the video about setting the compound to precise angles within a few minutes, not kidding though I had to watch and listen over and over again and even then sort of get my head around what you were doing actualy on the machine. Then I turned a tapered bung which matched the spindle taper precisely off the back of that learning. Thanks Joe.
Hi Joe, during my apprienticeship as a toolmaker, i learnd to do the advance with the turned (somewhat 29.5 to 30 degrees) compound slide, the cross slide was set to an even number (0) easy to return to. As metric tools usually do not have a thread dial, we had to retract the tool at each pass, reverse the spindle while halfnut still engaged and then advance to the next pass. So dial out one or two full turns to retract, wind back, dial in to zero advance DoC with Top Slide and on with the next pass. Tedious, but the real benefit was due to the magic of trigonometry - the real advance of the top slide is only half of the dial, we were able to produce highly accurate threads (sine 30°: 0.5). Another benefit was that only the left face of the cutter is engaged (the left side only makes a small spring cut), less stress to cutter and machine... However, great viedo again and again (and again), I watched all of them over and over, and whenever I will have the possibility to come to Austin, I'll give you a visit!
I feel I am repeating myself in these comments but I have to! Amazing information here. Like many of you guys I 've watched all major youtube machinist - producers and many others too. I always find here, by far the most accurate and useful information, that only major experience can buy. Thirty minutes of my time, ok maybe forty -because I watch some parts twice- and I become a far better machinist. Would I ever learn this stuff on my own? No way. Thank you sir once again. If you ever visit Greece, you have a grateful student here, willing to help in whatever way! :)
For those that have the book Machine Shop Trade Secrets by James Harvey, there's an illustration (8-7) that shows the spindle running in reverse for cutting the thread. I was going to ask you a question about how you handle cutting threads in harder materials, if you have any suggestions different from those in that book. Good clear explanation, much appreciated.
I spent 40 years as a machinist and enjoy every one of your videos. Thanks!
Great Video. Been a machinist for 60 years and I love your channel!
Thank you for that. I believe our work experience can let us all learn from each other.
Your method of machining is based on what is expedient and required, no more. You have spent a great deal of time over the years eliminating the BS to arrive at what works and is timely. Your comment about liking to work with a zero instead of a number backs up my theory. You, like me and almost anyone else, can remember a zero. It's not an arbitrary positive or negative number spawned in the depths of the universe that is almost impossible to recall with consistent accuracy. Zero is simple and direct much like your methods of using the tool or machine. Kudos to you Sir.
Thank you for clarifying something that always seemed completely stupid to me and that is the preoccupation with the compound that too many people seem to have. Cutting threads from left to right in reverse is simply the bomb too. Love your common sense approach!!!
Aloha Joe, Where were you 50 years ago when I needed you?? Great information and now to see if this old dog can learn a new trick!!!!
I was 8 playing with matchbox cars. I got here as soon as I could. Thanks for watching.
You nailed it.....Too funny! I knew we were about the same age...DAMN IT... I'm older....Off to cry now!!!!
That was one of the coolest tips I've seen. It totally eliminates any guess work of using the compound. It's amazing how something so simple can make life so much easier.
Someday, someone will rewrite the book to include all this stuff. Shop teachers nowadays should watch you tube once in a while. But thank God for shop teachers everywhere. I'm grateful.
There is an book by Martin Cleeve called "screw cutting in the lathe", part of the Workshop Practice series, that lists a number of different techniques, one similar to this video but not your away from the chuck way.
Always good to see you in the shop, no matter what color shirt, demonstrating real life machining. You're a cut above the rest so to speak Joe. Thank you!!!!
Many thanks.
Hi Joe
I'm just the old retired guy that plays in the shop when it's not too hot or too cold. In other words, not a machinist. I was a little lost at first about running the cross slid in and running the compound in and setting to zero. When my brain made the connection that we were setting the depth with the cross slid and running the compound in to that depth and setting it to zero, I said WOW, I just learned something new from Joe. Thanks Buddy
This will give you more control and the trig stays out of it. Thanks for watching.
Hi joe im really enjoying your videos. Specially since I'm not a machinist or engineer. My grandfather was an engineer in Gibraltar back in the day when ships was built. I admired him alot. He was given a large medal from the Gibraltar government for his long term years he spent with the company. During the war up until the middle of the 70s. he started from the very bottom and worked all the way up to being one of the bosses. He treated all his Co workers with respect & he was liked by all. And when he came to retirement it was the guys that put in for his great service of gratitude of thanks that the government gave him a gold medal. The ships he helped built was astonishing as well as the planes he put back into service after the second world war.. I' miss him so much. I wish he was still around to share his experience with me on working with a lathe.. But I'm certainly learning alot from you joe. I can't wait to get my new engineering lathe up and running. Your videos and your long term experience is worth a great deal and is so valuable to people like me that' has a great deal to learn. . Thanks so much for these videos and the time you put into them and share. I hope some day I get to be proficient. On my lathe. A thousand thanks joe. Your the best buddy. Hope you get well soon my friend.
The more recent model engineering type machining videos are really awesome for sure. I have totally enjoyed them. But this type of real-world machining, theory + practical videos is what I always loved about the Joe Pie channel. I have been on a kick lately of going back watching some of the older ones again.
I appreciate your support and comment. I hope you find real world value in all of my material.
As ever; you don’t merely show what’s needed but go to great lengths to explain “WHY” it’s needed. This is always the best way for anyone to grasp the idea. Fascinating video. I enjoy your work, and always look forward to the next video. Thanx.
Thank you. My style of teaching comes from my preferred style of learning. I am a very visual person when it comes to grasping new methods. I also remember how it felt to be presented with new material and try to keep it enjoyable.
Just discovered your channel Joe and am happy I did. Love someone who has done it practically and knows how to take the mystery out.
It really helps to teach the why and how at the same time. Thanks for the comment.
Good explanation of a great method! I came across that method several years ago and thought it was brilliant--simple, direct and no math. I wondered why more people don't use it. The tidbit about using the relief cut to measure the PD is genius: two wires are much easier to manage than three. Big thumbs up!
Keep that one a secret. That's good trick when someone looses a wire out of the set, or you want to mess with the next guy in line. Thanks for the comment.
Joe I just subscribed a day or two ago. I love your professional setup approaches that you show in your videos and the way you video them also. I have been a machinist for 50 years and can appreciate what you show. Proper setup is one of the most important things in machining. Cutting chips does not make you great machinist. Setup, technique and efficiency does. You have good knowledge and teaching skills. Nice to see that being shared with the rest of the world. Every time I see someone threading into the work I feel the stress just watching. I don't know why anyone would put that stress on themselves plus take the chance of ruining a piece. I sometimes put an indicator against the toolpost to get my depth of cut. That takes a different setup for thread length if critical. I also use the method you just described without an indicator except I use my crossslide (that has a thread stop) to retract my tool. I still use the compound to feed in except for my finish cut. They both work no trig needed.
I have enjoyed the heck out of your videos because I love math - trig, algebra, calc... all of it. But I really love the short cuts that allow you to do the work without resorting to trig. Nothing like throwing away the calculators and using good old Euclidean geometry to make it quick and easy.
By the way, thanks to you I now have balls of steel in the shop. No kidding! After watching your video on measuring holes using ball bearings I got a bunch of different sized ball bearings and have been finding all sorts of ways to use them to help measure things.
I guess that's the definition of "inspirational". You have inspired me to be better.
Thanks
Joe Pieczynski the no nonsense shop teacher, thanks for your efforts to make us better machinists.
You're a great teacher Joe. The bit where you show how no trig is needed I had to watch twice before getting the aha moment, that's always a good moment, thanks.
"Smallest tip gets the nod"... If only my wife thought the same as you Joe!!! Love from the UK
What a well-crafted and planned lesson and demo! Good job, Joe. If it was your intention to confuse and mislead us with ambiguity, technical double-speak, and unfathomable jargon, you failed miserably. Combined with your previous lessons on reverse threading and "angle" advancement with the compound slide, you've given me a useful education on the single-point threading process.
There is one final element to cover, and its the most basic yet. Actually engaging the half nut. Stay tuned.
Oh....I'll try harder on the whole confusion thing. I hate to fail ! Thanks for the comment.
Well said Paul, but I'm a little slow here, cause I'm soooo confused!!!! Maybe cause I'm a newb. But I do like what this man is putting out there! I'll have to watch it a bunch of times I guess. Wish me luck! Razor!
It seems to me there are two types of machinists, those who only do things the way they were shown, and those with a brain. You are of course in the second class!
Keep 'em coming, it is a good teacher that encourages people to try to break away from ages of hide bound, thoughtless, follow-my-lead dogma.
Thank you. I'll give you the theory and show you one application ( or 10 ). After that, the sky is the limit. Thanks for the compliment.
I shall relate a little story many years ago I was demonstrating threading at an exhibition and using the straight in method, several oldies commented that you can't do that, it's not the way I was taught. Then another piped up that he was taught to top slide feed but on his first job after his apprenticeship the foreman told him to stop wasting his time and go straight in, he never looked back.Moral of the story,never believe the first person who tells you something, at least not without further research.Oh and follow my leader is how you get myths, so THINK for yourself.
I like that. So true. Thanks for the comment.
Anytime, I appreciate people who think for themselves, ie like minded folk.
I've lived my whole life thinking, there's got to be a better way!! Good to know I have company....
Great Video, I like your suggestion at the end about setting your pitch diameter by measuring the initial groove.
Two wires are easier to handle than 3. Thanks for checking in Crispin.
Well done Joe. I started my working life as a machinist, served an apprenticeship and stayed in the trade for ten more years. Great to see your channel keeps my brain working.
I appreciate your style of instruction. I took metal shop in the mid 70s and loved it. I have recently purchased a small lathe mill combo and am using the techniques I have learned as I try to desires after a stressful work day.
Please keep up the great videos. (Lubbock native)
I too took metal shop in the 70's and haven't missed a day since. Its in my blood.
So many nuggets of information! I'm gonna go out and thread something, and then figure out what to use it for :)
Thanks for sharing, neighbor!
That's great. Howdy back at ya neighbor.
An excellent video and finally everything has dropped into place after watching all sorts of other videos on thread cutting - good job Joe.
Glad it was helpful!
Joe, as a licensed, registered, and certified moron I can honestly tell you that I instantly understood what you were trying to convey. I don't know a lick about machine shop stuff, but it seems like a pretty simple concept to grasp (without even finishing the video yet). Use a part as a back stop, turn 1 wheel back x amount say 3 turns, now goto another wheel set at some funny angle and see how many turns it takes to get to your backstop say 5 turns then make a mark or set a zero, now back way off, get all setup and start turning the second wheel till you get back to your zero. Seems to me that there might be a great lack of common sense out there or over complication of a great many things, but to me maybe just a simple foundational understanding of how ones tool(machine) works is all anyone ever really needs.
HUH WOW Mr Piecsynski I can't wait till I get a chance to use this info. I sit here like ET sucking it all in and loving every second of it. I never realized how the width of the tip of the threading tool was so important, I do NOW.
John Fink
Outstanding. Its very important. Like I said, smaller is safer. Thanks for the comment.
Another brilliant video Joe. Just a few suggestions that some viewers may find handy to achieve the same goal without arithmetic etc.
At 16:40, with the tool just touching the workpiece, set both dials to zero; back off the tool using the TOP slide, then using the CROSS slide advance the tool by the desired depth of thread. This depth is read directly from the cross slide dial with no arithmetic necessary; then reset the cross slide dial to zero.
Cut the groove by advancing the tool with the TOP slide until its dial again reads zero. The tool is now in the position it will be in when the last cut has been completed, both slide dials will be reading zero, and the groove will be the same form as the thread and in the finished location.
Withdraw the tool using the TOP slide and move saddle along to “start-cutting-thread” position but pause the tool when over a section of work where the thread is to be cut. Using the TOP slide, position the tool to just touch workpiece. This will eliminate several passes cutting air, or gouging the workpiece!
With the saddle in the start-cut position the depth of the scratch cut is applied using the TOP slide, and from now on the top slide handle will be rotated in a clockwise direction only.
Depth of cut is applied only by the TOP slide; the CROSS slide is used to disengage the tool at the end of each cut and the CROSS slide is moved back to zero on the dial when the saddle is positioned ready to take the next cut.
When the last cut is completed, both the top slide and cross slide dials will again read zero.
With this method it is not necessary to remember any top slide readings before adding on the depth of cut, and again using your method, only the depth of the thread cut needs to be read from a chart. No trigonometry, arithmetic or numbers need to be remembered other than zero on the two dials.
I hope this may be of interest to some viewers.
I agree with all the zeros being preset on the dials for ease, but to be honest, I rarely move my dials.
It is obvious to me that you have done this once or twice in the past :-) That was great Joe, it's the art of machining. Thanks!
Just a few times for sure. The thread on this video was truly the first time I threaded towards the head in over 30 years.
Very good explanation. Like your no-nonsense approach. Keep the tips coming!North of you in Comanche, County Texas.
Fluff is for pillows. I'll shoot these like you were sitting in front of me. Glad you like it.
Spent my Navy time and most of my working life in tool shop and heavy machine shops.
Now retired and volunteer at the aircraft restoration center at Kalamazoo Avation Museum. Love your Vidios. Darl Gilliland
Thanks.
Hi Joe - Enjoy all of your videos very much. You said, "Whatever works for you", so I'd like to share mine. Back in the day in a busy shop where we were cutting all kinds of random threads every day, I never messed around with compound slide angles at all - just left it 90 degrees to the cross-slide. Sharpened the tool to 55 degrees (our part of the world dealt with a lot of English stuff). Then just take each cut, 5 thou in, and 3 thou on the compound. Then to finish, 2 thou in and 1 on the compound. Quick and easy. Got to keep the boss happy, and just get 'er done.
I'm a home hobbyist and tried this last night. Worked like a charm! I think I will be using this technique from now on. Thanks!
Glad to hear it.
Thanks for the expedited response. You have a special talent to teach commonly used techniques and explain why things go wrong - brilliant. You also reveal time-saving tricks of the trade. It is very much appreciated. I look forward to watching your videos.
I have watched so many of your videos over the last 2 years. I can't believe I missed this one. Great approach
Glad it was helpful!
Another great video, I am just a hobbiest and you sure have a knack for teaching, even at my non pro level I am learning so much. This is my new technique for threading
Thanks. I'm glad this helped. Good luck.
Genius, so logical and once understood, it's so straightforward, thanks Joe
Glad it was helpful!
Another great video and pretty easy to follow, even for a novice like me. Thanks Joe and warm regards from the Netherlands.
Regards from Austin Texas. Happy Holidays to you!
Woody W. Joe, like you I don't thread with the compound, this is the best, most concise, vid. on threading I have ever seen. Short and to the point. As far as threading away from the head stock, why would anyone do otherwise? I cannot recall how I discovered it but it is one of the biggest stress relievers known to man! Your videos are incredible, please keep them coming.
Thank you. I will keep them coming as long as I can.
Thank you Joe, another good and valuable insight into a different way to screw cut ensuring accuracy. Like you I don't use the 30 deg on my compound slide, I plunge straight in because that was the way I was taught in my apprentice. Having said that it is always nice to learn different ways to do a job. Thank you for sharing. Bernie from the UK.
you do fabulous work Joe P. Always look forward to watching your videos with then pop up
Hi Joe, thanks a lot for this gift of wisdom. I learned a lot again, try it out next time. This in combination with inverted cut is a great leap forward. Thanks again, Thomas
It should really streamline threading if you use both. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the video. I like your thought process, how to use the machine to do the work for you. This makes sense to my CNC trained mind. Would love to see a video on how you do OD/ID threads left and right handed go from the head stock out.
Have a day
I'm actually editing the ID video. The OD video is already up. Its the' best technique ever' video. Take a look.
Hey Joe! I love the board! I don't see many other youtubers using a board, and it really helps to understand what's going on. Between that and the hands on demos, it's really effective instruction. Keep up the good work and great videos. God knows how many video apprentices you've got out there. ;-)
Great video Joe! I am going to go back and watch your threading technique video again. It would be nice to see this same exercise with your technique for a side by side comparison. For the old guys with the muscle memory it may not do anything for but us newbies it provides a different way to try something that may help us from breaking the part or our machines. Just a thought. Thanks again!
John, This video is intended to show you that you don't need trig to calculate thread depth, and that thread depth is not a correct indicator of a good thread. For you old guys with your muscle memory...good luck. I personally would rather do it right and not need trig to do so.
Very nice. I see I have a bit of experimenting to do and maybe even try the away from
the chuck threading if that is possible with my old Monarch 14C. Your presentation was very clear and gives me a whole new perspective on threading! Thank you Joe Pi!
Definitely try the inverted threading if the chuck is not screwed on. Thanks for your comment.
...Just recently found your channel...thanks for making these excellent videos...! I've spent all my working years doing electrical and welding stuff...but now 'retired' and looking to get into some machining....most of my welding was as 'the Welder' in a couple or 3 machine shops (both fabrication and repair)...so I'm familiar with all the machines....just need to learn how to run them effectively....
Wow...great video and great comments/answers....FYI, you just rained on my parade...lol, my 10ee has a stop that can be set on the cross slide so you can always return to zero after pullout....I was a happy lad!! Now u show me don't touch the cross slide after zero is set! SIMPLE SMART feed with the compound!!....also my 10ee has the ELSR setup, but once I start threading away from the chuck it is really not necessary to use.....more rain....LOL.
Hey Chuck. Your setup would be ideal if you choose to use the slide to retract the tool. It really doesn't matter which you use. The end result will be the same. Its just easier to use only one dial. I thread straight in with the slide exclusively. This video was for those guys that use the compound and rely on trig.
Been using this method for about a year now. What a time saver! Takes all the guess work out of threading on a lathe. Thanks for all the great information! 👍
Great series...keep up the good work! Keep in mind that many commenters have never touched a cross slide feed handle and you'll rest easier...lol
Ya know, after 100,000 hours in this trade, I do sometimes struggle with the mindset of the guys just starting out. I try to make my videos clear enough for all to understand, but things I don't even think about anymore are so embedded that I may miss something, or assume its common knowledge once in a while. I am actually finding myself more in touch with my viewers after 6 months of this than I was back in June. I'm patient. It does get frustrating when someone read a book and challenges 40 years of industrial experience. Its OK though, I will be the first to admit I don't know everything. A bunch, but not everything. Keep those comments coming and thanks for watching.
I'm in the same boat with my welding Joe. I've been under the hood for the better part of 40+ years too, started as green as they come, to having 100 guy's your in charge of, holding every certificate known, and guy's fresh out of school trying to tell you your wrong, or don't know what your doing. Hang in there buddy, keep throwing out those vids...we've got your back!
RW: I hear you... I sometimes have to tell guys I was ordering parts when they were ordering ice cream...
Hey Joe. another Gr8 video out for us Newbies to watch!.. awesome technique... I don't have much trouble doing the trig for threads, but I know a Lot of blokes who do... so on their behalf thanks so much!, best wishes to you and yours...
Mr. Pieczynski, hi, I'm new to your channel and I see I've got allot of watching to do! I look forward to it! Thanks for your efforts here!
Hi joe, from what i am seeing and hearing my method of thread cutting is waaay different from the rest. I too believe in the threading tool "flat" being as small as possible, but my compound slide stays linear to the bed of the lathe. We use a formula (for metric) 1.3 x pitch to calculate final depth. When cutting the thread (also towards headstock) i use my compound slide taking 3 cuts per depth adjustment. One centre, one left and one right. The thread is then cut so that the crest and root are the same width. I am in this line of work just over 5 years. I was taught this method and it works for me. But great videos Joe it really helps a lot.
P.S. this method is great with two and three start threads as you simply turn the amount of pitch on your compound slide to start the next threading cycle.
Most helpful videos about machining on RUclips
Glad I watched this again. i have a screw on chuck, sucks to be me with an Atlas lathe made in the 50's, but I paid $125 then added a 6" 3 jaw and a 4 jaw that costs the same as the lathe for each. Still learning from ALL of your vids. Thanks, Happy New Year from Canada.
This method works great! I ground a .005 tip and then easily and accurately cut five 1/2-28 x 1/2 inch practice pieces. Since I always fumble with the wires, I cheated and checked those pieces using a high-quality nut made by a gunsmith. I'd really like to try your technique of cutting towards the tailstock, but my lathe has a threaded spindle. Thank you for sharing this, and many other tips and tricks.
My dear sir, you just thought me how to thread on a lathe! I never did threading on a lathe before, but your video has thought me well. And I absolutely agree that thread cutting away from the spindle is far much better than towards the spindle. Thank you so very much
Thanks for watching. be sure to also watch my other videos - "Threading on a manual Lathe - Best Technique ever" and "Engaging a halfnut made easier". These will expand your new knowledge of threading. Good luck.
Dang no wonder I always have to fiddle around to get a good thread fit even if I feed in the distance required in the spec! I'm learning a lot from this channel. Thanks so much!
Get those wires and learn to use them.
Yessir! :-)
Cut my first nice thread today, this vid was extremely helpful!
im just starting to learn how to use my lathe. I got me a 14 -40 lathe and all of your videos have been very informative and i really appreciate the break down and demonstrations you provide. Thank you
Thought that I'd watched all your videos Joe, but somehow missed this one. Outstanding!
Very good video, Joe excellent information. Wishing you good luck, beating your allergies.
Thank you. They'll hang on for a while. I'll just have to halt my singing career till my voice comes back.
I have never used this way of threading, but I will now. Thanks Joe!
Get some wires and keep them close.
Hey Joe, great video. Had to watch it twice but, I learned something new. Thx
Hi Joe. Oh very neat! Have you noticed that once one understands something it is simple? It would have been a privilege to have been one of your apprentices. Cheers. BobUK.
Thanks Bob. I used to enjoy seeing those moments in my guys. There is a new pride that comes with it.
Good video Joe. I totally agree with you. I also prefer using a smaller flat on my threading bits, it's always served me well.
A great video Joe real interesting it is nice to have metods explained the shown in operation it puts it into your head properly Thanks for doing such a series. God bless.....
Love your style Joe.... I'll be using this as an absolute equal second to what I've always done and that's been to use trig. with having figured out a quick way of setting the compound to very fine decimal degrees.... But even still, your method of setting the run length of the thread has got to be quicker and easier and far less fiddling around to achieve the same thing.
I've not seen anything you may have done on Metric Threading which I do a lot. I've set up a sure fire system of disengaging the half nuts when necessary and checking the thread with perhaps a 'screw on' and then re engaging the entire gear train to restart further passes if the need be, with no loss of position. A much needed skill and happy to pass on any info to anyone who needs to do the same or like all of us, has accidentally disengaged those nuts and then cursed and started a new piece. I'm sure you'd have your own methods here which I'd certainly like to see.... Excellent video. Thanks.
When you get at the end of your thread, I allways backup my cross slide at the same time I disengage the screw. And bring it back to zero.
I wish you had taken the thread measurement using the three wire method to confirm you were still in tolerance range after your .005'' cleanup pass.
Just for the sake of viewer confirmation. You did well!
Very nice!! Another great vídeo. Keep doing more like this. Here in Brazil we love to learn with you. Congratulations.
I just did a 2.5in 12tpi thread and i did a lot of looking around first at different techniques because i had not single pointed since High school. Since i am making both the female and male pieces and they will only ever be used with one another i figured i can make the second part pick up the slack of the first if i need to.
I started with the compound to feed in my cuts but was getting a wired stepping pattern on the back face of my thread. So then after looking around a bit more I found people saying that they just feed in with the cross slide and dont bother with the compound with finer threads. gave that a shot and it turned out very pretty. so I am not sure what was going on with my compound maybe a little bit of play somewhere and not chasing the thread precisely, first time threading on my old logan 820 so i will have to figure that out.
Cutting thread on the machine has always been the best to do for me. Metric or imperial thread, it is the best to do on a lathe. Love doing threads. The best ever was the day I did a double start thread.
Thanks for all of the free training and tricks in all of your videos, Joe! I'm just a beginner, but this looks like a really handy, repeatable method, especially when reversed to do inside threads. Thanks again! /Dave
Yup, I learned something and with all the threads I've chased, that getting down to the nuts has been a challenge. My life just got a bit easier, Thanks!
I have been studying this and have to agree this is a REEEEALLY smart way to do this. Let the precision of the lathe do the math. Glad this is still on here for reference.
Thanks Joe, the “Returning to Zero” phrase makes sense now!
Awesome video as usual, I call it the ZERO TO ZERO technique. Only one suggestion to make it even better would be to pan out a bit so people can also see all the dials and your hand motions to make it even more obvious. Love all your videos, you're a great teacher.
Thank you very much.
Ken Cooper. Dr Dr Cree c.f. c c.f. center c
Ken Cooper 9ui778 77th 87th icu uh u8 P88iii
great lesson Joe, made perfect sense, try it out first thing tomorrow
Joe i really like how you present your ideas and tricks of the trade, i was in the trade for awhile and it never dawned on me to thread toward the tail stock or use the crossslide in the way you did in this video so i learned something for sure THX !!
Well Done Joe !!!! I love watching your videos, I always learn something useful, Thank you and keep them coming :-)
I always remove .005 from the stock O.D diameter for example if you'r making 0.5 inch thread make the O.D diameter 0.495
You will get very good thread .
Thanks Joe, another great video.
I have some evil mind poison that I think you will appreciate :)
I was cutting a thread a few weeks ago, and lost one of my thread wires. I needed this thread to fit the nominal size rather than a random nut I had floating around. I started hunting around for something to use as a substitute, and noticed that the amount of the wire that projects outside the thread is less than the range of the DP.
So I simply put wires on one side of the part, and mic'd it. I cut the depth so it was near the smaller end of the DP range and it came out dead on.
You have to make sure there is no or very minimal burr, and it obviously wont work no a close fit thread, but it worked perfectly on a 1/2-20 nominal thread.
You were very close to the one wire solution and didn't even realize it. Mic the OD of the starting diameter. Divide that by 2. Place a wire in the thread and measure again. Subtract the radius calculated in the first step from this value. Multiply the remainder by two and that would be a 3 wire value. 3 wires is just convenient, not a requirement. Good improv.
Joe Pieczynski
nm
Hi Joshua, if you loose a wire and happen to have some copper wire of the right diameter, wrap it around the part like a spring and measure that. Advantage is you don't have to hold any wires, so you wont drop them in the black hole called a chip tray.
Hi Joe: that is an awesome tip for setting depth of cut. Will try it. I like the "dashboard" gauge setup that Keith Fenner uses. Probably keep that as a backup / double check.
I would be interested in seeing the 3 wire measurement process. if you wanted to demo that! Keep up the great work, and thanks so much for your effort.
What dimension do you check when you cut a thread? How do you check it? Please reply.
Hi Joe:
I am not a professional machinist, just a home shop hack. But for the few threads I have single pointed I usually use a sharp HSS ground tool and flatten the nose slightly with a stone.
I use charts to determine the OD and depth of cut required. I place an undercut at termination, and then scratch cut the part. Zero both cross feed and compound dials. I place and zero a dial indiactor - stand on the apron indicator on the tool post. As I feed in with compound the dial gives me the movement of the tool. Once I get very close - say within a few thou, I may move the cross slide in to allow it to clean up the threads as you described - but usually only a few thou.
I zero both cross feed and compound because I use the method taught in many manuals of using the cross feed to back the tool away while you retract it.
I have a thread on chuck, but would like to try your inverted tool idea sometime. I don't know that the cutting force will spin that chuck off... they stick pretty good sometimes.
I use a nut or if possible the part being fitted to as a gauge.
Have you ever been taught how to use thread wires and calculate a proper PD?
Hi Joe:
No. I get the idea in principle, but have never looked up how to do it. I learned some basics of lathe operation in my teacher education program 20 years or more ago - I am a vehicle tech by trade - and did a night school course a while later. Both were mostly based on turning to size. Threading I rather taught myself with books and videos like yours, which I never really had success with until I bought my own lathe about 7 years ago. It still is a challenge as I don't do it often.
Great video Joe as always. I am going too try going away from chuck soon. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for sharing! I found it quite precise and informative. I don't do this for a living and I know a little, but far far from a professional. And I could follow you extremely well. Thanks Joe Pie!
My work here is done...................
Hello Joe, Always something new to learn. I had no idea my 60 degree threading tools were supposed to have a flat on the point. I am going to inserts whereas I have been using a South Bend thread cutter (the 3/4 round triangular cutter that you just grind the top of and advance it on the holder. HSS.) so I will have to see if they have a flat under the magnifying glass. Take care. Doug
The flat on the tool should be 1/8 the pitch as a rule. Less is better than more.
Another great video, with interesting content, keep it up, we need more detailed accurate information on cutting threads as well as many other machining videos. thanks again
Thank you. Stay tuned.
I hope you know that your a star Joe between mainly yours and just a few other vids you helped me set up and keep as small Machining department running, comprising of a bridgeport milling machine a harrison m300 lathe and there is an EDM machine that I dabbled with, that they've now upgraded, though they took another guy on to do that because I was snowed under with work tasks. I really liked the video about setting the compound to precise angles within a few minutes, not kidding though I had to watch and listen over and over again and even then sort of get my head around what you were doing actualy on the machine. Then I turned a tapered bung which matched the spindle taper precisely off the back of that learning. Thanks Joe.
Using your lathe cross-slide and compound as an analog computer! Good stuff. Thanks.
In the absence of a slide rule or abacus, its the next best thing. Kidding of course. Thanks for watching.
Thanks again, Joe! I love it when the light comes on ...
excellent presentation, I like this method!! the simplicity is elegant! Thank you for all you do.
Hi Joe,
during my apprienticeship as a toolmaker, i learnd to do the advance with the turned (somewhat 29.5 to 30 degrees) compound slide, the cross slide was set to an even number (0) easy to return to. As metric tools usually do not have a thread dial, we had to retract the tool at each pass, reverse the spindle while halfnut still engaged and then advance to the next pass. So dial out one or two full turns to retract, wind back, dial in to zero advance DoC with Top Slide and on with the next pass. Tedious, but the real benefit was due to the magic of trigonometry - the real advance of the top slide is only half of the dial, we were able to produce highly accurate threads (sine 30°: 0.5). Another benefit was that only the left face of the cutter is engaged (the left side only makes a small spring cut), less stress to cutter and machine...
However, great viedo again and again (and again), I watched all of them over and over, and whenever I will have the possibility to come to Austin, I'll give you a visit!
I feel I am repeating myself in these comments but I have to!
Amazing information here. Like many of you guys I 've watched all major youtube machinist - producers and many others too. I always find here, by far the most accurate and useful information, that only major experience can buy. Thirty minutes of my time, ok maybe forty -because I watch some parts twice- and I become a far better machinist. Would I ever learn this stuff on my own? No way.
Thank you sir once again. If you ever visit Greece, you have a grateful student here, willing to help in whatever way! :)
Thank you for watching. Greece is actually on my visit radar. Looks beautiful.
I learn so much watching your videos, kind of wish I could have an apprenticeship with you...
Glad you like them!
Favorite You Tube machinist, Thank you!!!!!
The end of the video showed me the two wire depth cut check before you start threading. Great tip I like it @joepiecynski! !! thanx for your time.
If you like 2 wires, you'll love this video. Check it out. ruclips.net/video/be6Q9mm4vEQ/видео.html
For those that have the book Machine Shop Trade Secrets by James Harvey, there's an illustration (8-7) that shows the spindle running in reverse for cutting the thread. I was going to ask you a question about how you handle cutting threads in harder materials, if you have any suggestions different from those in that book. Good clear explanation, much appreciated.
Do you have a specific material in mind?
Thank you. Appreciate the advice that you always thread away from the chuck. The less chance of messing up and loosing my job the better.
Very clever and well presented. You're a pro.
Another great video.Thank you.After viewing your previous threading video, I will never thread toward the headstock again.