Thanks Cliff. I've never tried full form inserts before. They always seemed like a bit of a luxury, but at $15, I'll have to give them a go. Regards, Mark.
Preso! You can see I am getting there with the spindles, I bought some cheap valve lapping paste, I am currently making laps, and soon I hope to get back to you with useful lapping information. Cheers, Cliff
You explained it better than i could & i had a life time in the industry + working in a Ballscrew factory, i did like the use of foam, from Coventry in UK 🇬🇧👍.
This is how I learned to do it in gunsmithing school. And it's the method that South Bend had in "How to Run a Lathe" that we all got. I would perhaps add putting as small mark on the work piece indexed with one jaw, to be sure the piece does not slip in the jaws. Especially on small lathes. On my Sherline ( which is my favorite lathe) I can't always count on the 3-jaw independent.
Good instruction on threading Cliff. My old lathe never came with a threading dial so I always had to keep the half nuts engaged and reverse the lathe. I am so entrenched in that practice that I don't use the threading dial on my new lathe. Cant wait for your next video on thread express.
Hi there fellow youtuber! Thanks for the feedback. If you decide you want to build a ThreadExpress also, please email me (and my old brain can better keep track of the list of next builders). Cheers, Cliff
I've used those Deskar branded tips quite a bit and I find them pretty good, maybe not quite the quality of the Iscar brand we used in the factory, but for the price, pretty good. 👍
I use the Descar inserts as well, the problem is that I haven't found full profile ANSI inserts and Deskar doesn't have the baggage of where they are made like Iscar.
I was taught by my father to do threads. He also mentioned that you need to clean the lead screw and where he worked he was the senior toolmaker he had the half nut lever and the thread dial locked up in the crib so nobody could mess up the leadscrew and halfnut
This is what I am looking for. Thank you for your explanation on thread cutting. I stay far from major cities and am trying to learn how to use a lathe but cannot find a class where I live so am using the net to learn. Your explanation was really helpful and the basics are appreciated. Regards from Townsville Australia
Hi Andy. Townsville sounds like the pace to be to escape our winter, but I guess right now it is getting a bit muggy. Good to hear your comment, I really want to contribute, and feedback like that keeps me going. Cheers, Cliff
@ H Cliff we all have our problems with the weather, we just had half a meter of rain in 24 hrs. Lucky the place is made for it so no serious flooding around us. Also humidity is at 91 % at the moment. But it's only for 3 months and them the weather is awesome the rest of the year. The middle of winter it is a cold 25 degrees everyday and if it reaches 11 degrees at night we hear about it on the news. The nights are usually about 19 degrees every night. Have a great Christmas and an awesome new year.
@ when I lived in Torbay I was working at Fletchers on the busway project and everyone knew when I was in an excavator winter or summer as the heater was on full. It was by accident I ended up in Townsville and I am so glad I did as the weather is perfect nine months of the year. Only in summer is it wet and humid and they is from November to about the end of February. The rest of the time it is a sunny 26 degrees. I think in the last three years we went down to nine degrees at night for one week at night and everyone was freezing as no one I know owns jumpers. The days were still twenty six degrees. I always tell my mom who lives in South Africa that when we get cold we turn the fan down from three to two. That is why I will never move from this place if I can help it. It is really awesome living here as the sea is at about twenty five degrees in winter and goes up to thirty six in summer and that brings in the humidity for the three months. If ever you come to Aus give me a shout and if you come to Townsville we can get together and take the boat out and go fishing in the bay or river or camping on one of the uninhabited islands around Townsville.
Just an idea. . .If you are not inclined to blame your tools you can often fault the material. I had never seen inexpensive Asian full-form thread inserts. No matter how many times I have done single-point threading I always learn something when watching another craftsman doing it. Thanks for posting.
Nice video Cliff. your toolholder is only good for lead angles up to 1.5 degrees, your thread is greater than that so to get the insert to cut cleanly you would need to tilt the insert by another degree or so with a + 1 degree shim or seat under the insert.
@@theoldstationhand The problem is, I've never seen a 1° shim for the Chinese holders, you can though, buy a 10 shim insert pack from a major manufacturer for around $200
@@Threadexpress That will not help, the leading edge of the insert is not cutting cleanly because it is rubbing on the flank of the thread, the only way to overcome this if to tilt it a bit more than it is now.
All turned out quite nicely considering how cheap and cheerful the cost of the inserts are👌 I can see you are getting towards the upper limits of being able to measure reliably across 3 wires at 3.5 mm thread pitch with a standard 1/4"(6.35mm) micrometer spindle and anvil....time to break out the disc mics with anything of a coarser pitch.
An old lathe trick when cutting treads.....turn you tool upside down, run the machine in reverse, and start at the shoulder. You can also make an under cut at the shoulder using the treading tool. I dont know if modern insert tool holders come in right hand cutting holders. This will not work with a left hand tool holder.
I`m still fucking mad about that dimwit raging over monarch not cutting a bloody acme thread properly on a thin rod when he FAILED TO PROVIDE A TRAVELLING SUPPORT! Can you imagine bitching about a majestic lathe and blaming the machine for idiocy of that caliber? Now don`t get me wrong, he ain`t a moron, i`ve seen dozens of hours of his videos and learned some things from him, what - i don`t recall, but i know that i had to have learned something, yet that was a video that i still can`t believe that i have witnessed... So yeah, given that oversight, no shit that this dude will likely bring about a better threading video when he spawned the thread cutting accessory that actually works... Designing shit like that takes some canned beans upstairs, more than is needed to just not fuck up a basic lathe operation... Cheers and all the best! Steuss
Hi, I started school at metal work 4 month ago. We made threads with lathe, in cylinder object like you have (25mm diameter round "bolt head", M20 thread die). Biggest problem was to get bolt stick in 3 jaw chuck, it is really hard to get good grip on that round surface. Because bolt got stuck on thead die very beginning and bolt start rollin between chuck jaws. After repeating 3~4 times, thightening jaws, it started go well when thread die sink about 5mm in bolt. - Have you any good tip how to get better grip on those round object ? I tried already put sandpaper between jaw and object but it was not enough for that "practice".
Hi, it could be that your jaws are worn bell mouthed, have a look at my video ' fix your 3-jaw chuck' (or use a 4-jaw independent chuck). Cheers, Cliff
How to cut threads on a lathe? Step 0 - chuck the cleaned and prepared stock, set the tool up, select the ratio, make sure you ain`t licking the 3 phase wires and give `er wha` Step 1 - don`t fucking crash Step 2 - repeat step 1 until done... For metric on imperial or imperial on metric - no disengaging the halfnuts if you know what`s good for ya... Also, don`t crash... Cheers m8, best regards! Steuss
It's my understanding that rolled threads were stronger. But if a cut then rolled finish with moderate displacement could be better? Or was the rolled is better a marketing ploy?
Only to a minor extent and no, it's not just marketing. The reason roll formed threads are stronger is because instead of cutting through the grain structure of the material the plastic deformation elongates the grains and causes them to following the contour of the thread, it also results in compressive stresses at the root of the thread, without that displacement there would be little strength increase.
Could you shed some light on the measuring pins you are using ? It is some set. I think your cutting speed is too low with these carbide inserts , they are more meant to be used in cnc machines?
Yes, if you search 3 wire thread gauge sets ex your supplier (Ali Ex, Amazon etc.). Yes, carbide used to be fragile and mainly for production, but nowadays it is much more tough and can handle the higher cutting loads of lower RPM. Cheers, Cliff
Very well thought out explanation on thread cutting. Looking forward to the internal thread cutting video.
Thank you. It is difficult to know the best balance of content vs time. Details vs duration. Cheers, Cliff
@@Threadexpress- fabulous concise explanation. Thank you 🙏
Nice video.
Certainly nice work.
Thanks for the thread insert tip.
Thanks for sharing.
Merry Christmas. 🙏
Thanks, let me know if you get some and they are ok too. Cheers, Cliff
Great video. Nice work mister
Hi fellow youtuber. Thanks for the encouragement. Cheers, Cliff
Thanks Cliff. I've never tried full form inserts before. They always seemed like a bit of a luxury, but at $15, I'll have to give them a go.
Regards,
Mark.
Preso! You can see I am getting there with the spindles, I bought some cheap valve lapping paste, I am currently making laps, and soon I hope to get back to you with useful lapping information. Cheers, Cliff
You explained it better than i could & i had a life time in the industry + working in a Ballscrew factory, i did like the use of foam, from Coventry in UK 🇬🇧👍.
Thanks for that encouraging comment from my homeland! Coventry, the heartland of early precision engineering. Cheers! Cliff
This is how I learned to do it in gunsmithing school. And it's the method that South Bend had in "How to Run a Lathe" that we all got. I would perhaps add putting as small mark on the work piece indexed with one jaw, to be sure the piece does not slip in the jaws. Especially on small lathes. On my Sherline ( which is my favorite lathe) I can't always count on the 3-jaw independent.
Yes, I have had 3 jaw walking on my CNC lathe. Cheers, Cliff
Good instruction on threading Cliff. My old lathe never came with a threading dial so I always had to keep the half nuts engaged and reverse the lathe. I am so entrenched in that practice that I don't use the threading dial on my new lathe. Cant wait for your next video on thread express.
Hi there fellow youtuber! Thanks for the feedback. If you decide you want to build a ThreadExpress also, please email me (and my old brain can better keep track of the list of next builders). Cheers, Cliff
I've used those Deskar branded tips quite a bit and I find them pretty good, maybe not quite the quality of the Iscar brand we used in the factory, but for the price, pretty good. 👍
I use the Descar inserts as well, the problem is that I haven't found full profile ANSI inserts and Deskar doesn't have the baggage of where they are made like Iscar.
I know, how do they do it? Cheers, Cliff
I was taught by my father to do threads. He also mentioned that you need to clean the lead screw and where he worked he was the senior toolmaker he had the half nut lever and the thread dial locked up in the crib so nobody could mess up the leadscrew and halfnut
I like it! I have been doing something similar myself to make sure I don't get lazy or engage the wrong lever in a rush! 😁 Cheers, Cliff
@Threadexpress yeah my dad figured most crashes happened when threading.
This is what I am looking for. Thank you for your explanation on thread cutting. I stay far from major cities and am trying to learn how to use a lathe but cannot find a class where I live so am using the net to learn. Your explanation was really helpful and the basics are appreciated. Regards from Townsville Australia
Hi Andy. Townsville sounds like the pace to be to escape our winter, but I guess right now it is getting a bit muggy. Good to hear your comment, I really want to contribute, and feedback like that keeps me going. Cheers, Cliff
@ H Cliff we all have our problems with the weather, we just had half a meter of rain in 24 hrs. Lucky the place is made for it so no serious flooding around us. Also humidity is at 91 % at the moment. But it's only for 3 months and them the weather is awesome the rest of the year. The middle of winter it is a cold 25 degrees everyday and if it reaches 11 degrees at night we hear about it on the news. The nights are usually about 19 degrees every night. Have a great Christmas and an awesome new year.
@@Andy-Gibb OK I am jealous. Here it is windy and cold and damp...apart from 3 months of summer. 🙄
@ when I lived in Torbay I was working at Fletchers on the busway project and everyone knew when I was in an excavator winter or summer as the heater was on full. It was by accident I ended up in Townsville and I am so glad I did as the weather is perfect nine months of the year. Only in summer is it wet and humid and they is from November to about the end of February. The rest of the time it is a sunny 26 degrees. I think in the last three years we went down to nine degrees at night for one week at night and everyone was freezing as no one I know owns jumpers. The days were still twenty six degrees. I always tell my mom who lives in South Africa that when we get cold we turn the fan down from three to two. That is why I will never move from this place if I can help it. It is really awesome living here as the sea is at about twenty five degrees in winter and goes up to thirty six in summer and that brings in the humidity for the three months. If ever you come to Aus give me a shout and if you come to Townsville we can get together and take the boat out and go fishing in the bay or river or camping on one of the uninhabited islands around Townsville.
No worries mate , merry Christmas
Merry Christmas. Cliff
Just an idea. . .If you are not inclined to blame your tools you can often fault the material. I had never seen inexpensive Asian full-form thread inserts. No matter how many times I have done single-point threading I always learn something when watching another craftsman doing it. Thanks for posting.
Yeah, that steel ! Thanks for the freedback, Cheers, Cliff
Nice video Cliff. your toolholder is only good for lead angles up to 1.5 degrees, your thread is greater than that so to get the insert to cut cleanly you would need to tilt the insert by another degree or so with a + 1 degree shim or seat under the insert.
Handy stuff to know. More surprising to me was the decent surface finish whilst running slowly with a carbide insert.
@@theoldstationhand The problem is, I've never seen a 1° shim for the Chinese holders, you can though, buy a 10 shim insert pack from a major manufacturer for around $200
I think when I do the job, if I drop the tip a couple of thou below center, it may give more clearance and make enough of a difference. Cliff
There are shims for higher pitch threads
@@Threadexpress That will not help, the leading edge of the insert is not cutting cleanly because it is rubbing on the flank of the thread, the only way to overcome this if to tilt it a bit more than it is now.
Very good video. Gonna watch this few ~ ten times more later :D. Thank you
Comments like that keep me going. Cheers! Cliff
All turned out quite nicely considering how cheap and cheerful the cost of the inserts are👌
I can see you are getting towards the upper limits of being able to measure reliably across 3 wires at 3.5 mm thread pitch with a standard 1/4"(6.35mm) micrometer spindle and anvil....time to break out the disc mics with anything of a coarser pitch.
Yeah. I have a disc mic, but not that big. Cheers, Cliff
Gday, thanks for sharing your tips, very useful, cheers mate
Good to hear. Cheers, Cliff
Thank you.
Cheers, Cliff
8:55 Adam Savage from mythbusters had the same problem with his lathe. Is that a manufacturer error or did a past operator switch the settings?
Interesting, mine is definitely ex a manufacturing error. Cheers, Cliff
An old lathe trick when cutting treads.....turn you tool upside down, run the machine in reverse, and start at the shoulder. You can also make an under cut at the shoulder using the treading tool. I dont know if modern insert tool holders come in right hand cutting holders. This will not work with a left hand tool holder.
Yeah I have tried that, but I prefer to see how the tool is cutting, so went back to plan A. Cheers, Cliff
Pratt gauges never lie
Yes, I would trust them more than $10 ell cheapo gauges.... Cheers, Cliff
nice video
Thank you. Cliff
Hi, I think that if you setting angle in the compound is set to 31 deg ( from the vertical , you would have an easier life.....
Cheers, Cliff
Excellent video top class way better than abom 79
I`m still fucking mad about that dimwit raging over monarch not cutting a bloody acme thread properly on a thin rod when he FAILED TO PROVIDE A TRAVELLING SUPPORT! Can you imagine bitching about a majestic lathe and blaming the machine for idiocy of that caliber? Now don`t get me wrong, he ain`t a moron, i`ve seen dozens of hours of his videos and learned some things from him, what - i don`t recall, but i know that i had to have learned something, yet that was a video that i still can`t believe that i have witnessed... So yeah, given that oversight, no shit that this dude will likely bring about a better threading video when he spawned the thread cutting accessory that actually works... Designing shit like that takes some canned beans upstairs, more than is needed to just not fuck up a basic lathe operation...
Cheers and all the best!
Steuss
Thanks for taking the time to give feedback. Cheers, Cliff
Hi, I started school at metal work 4 month ago. We made threads with lathe, in cylinder object like you have (25mm diameter round "bolt head", M20 thread die).
Biggest problem was to get bolt stick in 3 jaw chuck, it is really hard to get good grip on that round surface.
Because bolt got stuck on thead die very beginning and bolt start rollin between chuck jaws.
After repeating 3~4 times, thightening jaws, it started go well when thread die sink about 5mm in bolt.
- Have you any good tip how to get better grip on those round object ? I tried already put sandpaper between jaw and object but it was not enough for that "practice".
Hi, it could be that your jaws are worn bell mouthed, have a look at my video ' fix your 3-jaw chuck' (or use a 4-jaw independent chuck). Cheers, Cliff
@@Threadexpress Thanks, I will look that
How to cut threads on a lathe?
Step 0 - chuck the cleaned and prepared stock, set the tool up, select the ratio, make sure you ain`t licking the 3 phase wires and give `er wha`
Step 1 - don`t fucking crash
Step 2 - repeat step 1 until done...
For metric on imperial or imperial on metric - no disengaging the halfnuts if you know what`s good for ya... Also, don`t crash...
Cheers m8, best regards!
Steuss
Step 3 - don't daydream! Cheers! Cliff
It's my understanding that rolled threads were stronger. But if a cut then rolled finish with moderate displacement could be better? Or was the rolled is better a marketing ploy?
Only to a minor extent and no, it's not just marketing. The reason roll formed threads are stronger is because instead of cutting through the grain structure of the material the plastic deformation elongates the grains and causes them to following the contour of the thread, it also results in compressive stresses at the root of the thread, without that displacement there would be little strength increase.
Could you shed some light on the measuring pins you are using ? It is some set. I think your cutting speed is too low with these carbide inserts , they are more meant to be used in cnc machines?
Yes, if you search 3 wire thread gauge sets ex your supplier (Ali Ex, Amazon etc.). Yes, carbide used to be fragile and mainly for production, but nowadays it is much more tough and can handle the higher cutting loads of lower RPM. Cheers, Cliff
👍👍😎👍👍
My number one rule for cutting threads on a manual lathe! Don't buy a lathe with an automatic spindle brake.
Good point. Cheers, Cliff