I know, lengthy introductions frustrate me too! I suppose it is to broaden the base of understanding, gather focus, and... maybe some folks are slower than you. (But maybe not 5 times!) Cheers, Cliff
This video was priceless. You explained it in such a way that it just clicked the first time round. I will do this tomorrow. Thanks for taking the time to make this great content, love it!
Another Great Title for this video @0:40 *"How much could a Woodchuck chuck, if a Woodchuck could chuck wood?"* So sorry, after hearing the word chuck so much in the beginning, I just couldn't help myself. The video was truly helpful though and exactly what I came here for, thank you 😁
@@Threadexpress Actually there is a duck called a "Wood Duck" that you may be thinking of or there very well may be a bird called a woodchuck but you got me interested enough to look it up and the woodchuck that the rhyme is talking about is apparently a very large groundhog as defined in this Wikipedia link... en.wikipedia.org/wiki/How_much_wood_would_a_woodchuck_chuck
p.s. Thanks again for the help. I've been using a minilathe for some time being that I manufacture rings but it's so narrow as to what I do, I don't ever really expand beyond more that it's capable of and when the chuck went out of line after an employee took out the grips in the chuck, I wasn't sure how to figure the order in as to how to get it in line again and your video was very helpful fixing what I now know is called "runout".
We have one at the company I work, it's in poor state of maintenance but bought new by the company and all the documentation is there. I am spending some lost hours fixing the machine so that I can use it every now and then. Very well built machines with lots of nice and well thought-out features.
THANK YOU!!! This is exactly what I kept thinking in my mind was the issue with my Chinese lathe. Runout and bellmouthing in the jaws I noticed. I was going to try and machine each jaw one at a time to fix the issue, but this is exactly what I needed as I couldn’t find a way I could grind them down in the chuck as the bellmouthing is in the wrong direction vs work chucked up. A spigot on a ring with grooves in the jaws is genius!!! Thank you so much. 💪👍
Great video, On my three jaw, it was only one jaw damaged from a 6 foot length of 2 inch dia. chrome moly coming loose from the tail holder. I had a 9 thousand run out from that. Using a piece of stock and a piece of 1 thousand shim stock, I found my bad jaw. After the repair, I’m down to 1.25 thousand runout. My plan B was to use a grinding wheel as your video shows. Luckily my jaws are two piece each jaw, I removed the burr from the dovetail and replaced the two bolts that hold it together, they were stretched from the stress. Great job, great work, great video.
Question for you is, when you grooved the front of the jaws how did you hold them. As I have just fitted a new chuck and whilst the body of the chuck is only .02 run out. The part to be machined depending on the diameter can be anything up to .3. It’s wasting my time, and makes me loose it. If only the owner understood the amount of time wasted by buying cheap tools 😢 Thanks for your video.
Hi - I closed the jaws on a diameter of material to lock them up then machined the groove in the lathe with carbide and light cuts, but you could also hold the chuck as above in the mill and use a carbide end mill. Cheers, Cliff
That's an excellent way of holding the chuck jaws apart. Thank you. Incidentally I don't worry about about grinding through the surface hardness layer as I think that the softer steel beneath grips the workpiece better and with less pressure. Obviously they will not last as long but another regrind is quick enough to do.
This is the correct way to recondition hard jaws. You must “fool” the jaws into thinking they are gripping a solid shaft. Putting just a plain ring on the jaws and backing them out will not load the jaws correctly and will not yield correct results. Very good video.
Hi Mark. Yes I used to be reluctant also. But when you machine the groove you realize the steel is quite hard down deep as well.. so it is not like a thin hard case on a soft interior. Cliff
@@Threadexpress I accidentally tested the hardness of the jaws on my Boxford A lathe using a drill mounted on the tool post. I couldn't understand why several drills came back with the tip completely flattened. I thought it was the stainless steel work piece work hardening. Then I realized I was trying to drill into one of the chuck jaws! It didn't even leave a mark on the jaw. Now I have made my own grinding attachment by mounting a DC treadmill motor on the cross slide, after removing the compound slide and making a cone shaped spigot to mount the grinder at the center height. I made an ER32 collet holder to mount directly on the shaft of the DC motor. I will put it on my RUclips channel one day. But I don't know how good my machining is, and also feel a bit hesitant about attacking the jaws with it. I'm not aware of any real problems, but it was interesting that you said that the grinder isn't critical, and users may be unaware of the source of problems such as using parting tools. But the biggest and best tip you presented was how to mount the ring. So here is a big Thank You for an excellent video. Subscribed. By the way I am a KIwi in Thames and the lathe has the original Burnerd chuck that it had new at Te Puke High School, where I did engineering classes.
@@evanlewis652 Hi Evan. Sorry I missed your interesting comments until now. My father was a draftsman/designer at AG Price when we lived in Thames in the 60's. I still love that area of NZ. Cheers Cliff
@@Threadexpress Hi Cliff, I am in Tennessee right now. Your father probably knew "Nelson" who was also in design at Eastman. He is still doing CAD design by contract and has a huge home workshop. We have been restoring two Tangye stationary steam engines at the Goldmine Experience in Thames. Well worth a visit! They are opening a new blacksmith shop on Nov 12th 2022 with a steam day. I am already looking forward to getting back on my lathe in Thames. I will add a post about my grinding attachment.
What's the best way to make that grove on the chuck jaws, did you just clamp something between the jaws, spin it up and use a tool in the tool post to remove that material or did you remove the jaws from the chuck?
@@Threadexpress Thanks Cliff, I have an old colchester from the 20s/30s that im restoring, there's still a long list of things to do but at least I know what I need in order to get its old 3 jaw chuck working nicely again.
@@bradley9856 Nice! I restored an old Colchester Triumph back in the day, including re machining the whole bed to get the hollow out, with a cutting head mounted off the carriage, using packers stopping it from sinking into the hollow during machining, then lapped the carriage on to the bed manually. Cliff
@@Threadexpress oh wow, luckily I think the ways of my lathe are in quite good condition actually. if I tighten up the carriage at the head end of the ways it's still able to move all the way to the tail without getting tighter, I'm yet to measure it properly but will do that when I get the chance. When you say you used packers what do you mean by that?
@@bradley9856 Beside the actual bed slideway there is an unworn section of bed slideway from memory, it may have been the tailstock way, I fitted a packer between it and the carriage to keep the carriage from dropping down the worn section when I was re machining the main slideways.
My question is how to find out the proper backlash between the spiral located the opposite side of the conic teeth of a disc and the spiral on the jaws
Hi Tom. Grip a piece of diameter to lock the jaws tight then turning with light cuts and slow rpm, using a carbide insert tool left and right shapes, to machine out a slot - or do it with a carbide end mill in a mill with a rotary table. Cliff
Envy time 😉 Definitely a Very Nice, Tool Post Grinder. Usually when you see these items in a video they are in worse condition than the Lathe 😂 Not surprised to see Cliff with such a Nice example 👍 First item on my list when I purchased a New Lathe was to buy a Bison Lathe Chuck.
Hi Mark. Good to hear from someone thinking deeply about this! Yes play on the scroll bearing or a non concentric scroll thread can be an issue with some chucks, and is a minor accuracy issue on all chucks. The procedure in my video is still needed to correct the jaw grip squareness and straightness, but for accurate work of different diameters the work concentricity may still need to be dialed in (I use a 'floating backplate' as mentioned in other videos). When repeat parts are made after the chuck is dialed in for that diameter, concentricity tends to repeat well. Cheers Cliff
Hi, I'm a Machine Tool fitter and worn scroll plates as well as worn jaws are a common problem. There isn't much you can do about worn scroll plates unfortunately, and I have seen turners giving the chuck jaws a biff with a hide mallet to get the best out of a worn out chuck. Not ideal I know, but if you're really struggling for accuracy and are not in a hurry you could always use a 4 Jaw chuck.
Great job Cliff, I need to do the same on my weiler 280. What shape of tool did You use to machine that additional groove in front of jaws? And did You block jaws during this internally by some shaft?
Hi MM. Thanks for the feedback. The tool shape from memory was 60 deg carb inserts, tipped to suit and lots of shallow light cuts. Yes with a shaft inside the jaws to clamp them stiff. Cheers Cliff
i drill pin hole in the tip of the jaw ,insert 3 pins chuck on a ring with the pins and grind, always chuck with the number 1 key hole, for the most accuracy
Hi John. You are only grinding off a few thou so the exact specs are not too critical. If you need to buy, ask the supplier for a medium grain for hardened steel with sizing to suit your grinder. Cheers, Cliff
I have being turning 30 years now and I don't like hard jaws , 9 time's out of ten I bore soft jaws through to grip said component dia , hard jaws may not be the correct radius for the job and could mark it .
A good way or else you can drill three small holes into to front of all the jaws on the smaller diameter steps, insert three small bolts with heads and grip a small diameter ring out in front with the three bolt heads . This will position the jaws the same way.
One of the best prison made products from the land of one of our main comie enemies. 😊.and you wounder why they won't get it right ,and still the problem lies within you D.A.😊
What do you think of Winki's Workshop method? ruclips.net/video/QUbtJQhYonQ/видео.html Looks a but quicker. Surprisingly his carbide tips didn't object to intermittent cutting of hard material using very light cuts.
Hi Evan. Yes I saw that video. The problem with closing on to side spacers is that it can displace the jaws into a different sideways clearance position than normal. Using carbide it is difficult to take the absolute minimum off and get a perfect cut. Cheers Cliff
only good for one diameter. 3-jaws aren't intended for concentricity without shimming. If you want concentricity use an adjustable jaw like a typical 4-jaw chuck.
Hi - The grinding procedure gets the inside of the jaws at least in good angular alignment and not bell mouthed, but I agree that in that some chucks, the scrolls are not concentric. However, a 'floating backplate' allows concentricity adjustment more quickly than a 4 jaw. Cheers, Cliff
First, You talk a lot friend, plus don’t need to machine the jaws. Use a machining ring made in England . It holds the jaws just like u have. Don’t grind either, horrible grit. Use a normal boring bar , carbide , ceramic or cbn. Thanks
Machining a groove in your (hardened) jaws is overly complicated. i found a better way, thanks you a YT comment, credits where credits are due. I made a blog post on the topic. Sharing on YT of URLs seem pretty much impossible, so if you are interested please drop me a line.
@@bigbattenberg You misunderstand me. The two methods I know of that avoid machining the jaws are the side pinching blocks and using a ring that bears on the jaw's bevels, but both these methods can displace the jaws within their clearance sideways. If your method is different, please describe it so we can all benefit. Cheers
![BLACK BAG - Official Trailer [HD] - Only in Theaters March 14](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Du0Xp8WX_7I/mqdefault.jpg)
Nicely done Cliff! I had not seen your video before I did mine on the same topic. Obviously great minds think alike.
ATB, Robin
Cheers Robin! Cliff
I thought this was a joke video at first. 7 mins in and you’re explaining the problem for the 5th time. Ended up being a good video thanks.
I know, lengthy introductions frustrate me too! I suppose it is to broaden the base of understanding, gather focus, and... maybe some folks are slower than you. (But maybe not 5 times!) Cheers, Cliff
This video was priceless. You explained it in such a way that it just clicked the first time round. I will do this tomorrow. Thanks for taking the time to make this great content, love it!
Thanks for the feedback! Cheers, Cliff
Best method of holding jaws for grinding that I have seen so far. Thanks
Thanks for taking the time to give feedback. Cheers Cliff
Another Great Title for this video @0:40
*"How much could a Woodchuck chuck, if a Woodchuck could chuck wood?"*
So sorry, after hearing the word chuck so much in the beginning, I just couldn't help myself. The video was truly helpful though and exactly what I came here for, thank you 😁
Cheers....I do remember that one ..is a woodchuck also a bird? Cliff
@@Threadexpress Actually there is a duck called a "Wood Duck" that you may be thinking of or there very well may be a bird called a woodchuck but you got me interested enough to look it up and the woodchuck that the rhyme is talking about is apparently a very large groundhog as defined in this Wikipedia link...
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/How_much_wood_would_a_woodchuck_chuck
p.s. Thanks again for the help. I've been using a minilathe for some time being that I manufacture rings but it's so narrow as to what I do, I don't ever really expand beyond more that it's capable of and when the chuck went out of line after an employee took out the grips in the chuck, I wasn't sure how to figure the order in as to how to get it in line again and your video was very helpful fixing what I now know is called "runout".
Wildly underrated channel.
Now I know what's up with my chuck.
Thanks for your feedback! Cliff
my favorite lathe I have used, and owned, a Colchester Triumph 2000.....15 inch x 50 inch...new sub from the US.....Paul
Cheers! Cliff
We have one at the company I work, it's in poor state of maintenance but bought new by the company and all the documentation is there. I am spending some lost hours fixing the machine so that I can use it every now and then. Very well built machines with lots of nice and well thought-out features.
THANK YOU!!! This is exactly what I kept thinking in my mind was the issue with my Chinese lathe. Runout and bellmouthing in the jaws I noticed. I was going to try and machine each jaw one at a time to fix the issue, but this is exactly what I needed as I couldn’t find a way I could grind them down in the chuck as the bellmouthing is in the wrong direction vs work chucked up. A spigot on a ring with grooves in the jaws is genius!!! Thank you so much. 💪👍
Thanks for the feedback! Cliff
You continue to be an outstanding asset to the machining community Thank you and keep up the good work Cliff. Cheers! Joey, NC USA
Thanks Joey! Cliff
Great video,
On my three jaw, it was only one jaw damaged from a 6 foot length of 2 inch dia. chrome moly coming loose from the tail holder.
I had a 9 thousand run out from that. Using a piece of stock and a piece of 1 thousand shim stock, I found my bad jaw.
After the repair, I’m down to 1.25 thousand runout.
My plan B was to use a grinding wheel as your video shows.
Luckily my jaws are two piece each jaw, I removed the burr from the dovetail and replaced the two bolts that hold it together, they were stretched from the stress.
Great job, great work, great video.
Thanks Richard! Cheers Cliff
Question for you is, when you grooved the front of the jaws how did you hold them.
As I have just fitted a new chuck and whilst the body of the chuck is only .02 run out.
The part to be machined depending on the diameter can be anything up to .3.
It’s wasting my time, and makes me loose it.
If only the owner understood the amount of time wasted by buying cheap tools 😢
Thanks for your video.
Hi - I closed the jaws on a diameter of material to lock them up then machined the groove in the lathe with carbide and light cuts, but you could also hold the chuck as above in the mill and use a carbide end mill. Cheers, Cliff
That's an excellent way of holding the chuck jaws apart. Thank you.
Incidentally I don't worry about about grinding through the surface hardness layer as I think that the softer steel beneath grips the workpiece better and with less pressure. Obviously they will not last as long but another regrind is quick enough to do.
Cheers! Cliff
This is the correct way to recondition hard jaws. You must “fool” the jaws into thinking they are gripping a solid shaft. Putting just a plain ring on the jaws and backing them out will not load the jaws correctly and will not yield correct results. Very good video.
Cheers! Cliff
Thanks Cliff. That process has been on my wish list for a long time. I've always shied away from cutting into the jaws though.
Hi Mark. Yes I used to be reluctant also. But when you machine the groove you realize the steel is quite hard down deep as well.. so it is not like a thin hard case on a soft interior. Cliff
@@Threadexpress I accidentally tested the hardness of the jaws on my Boxford A lathe using a drill mounted on the tool post. I couldn't understand why several drills came back with the tip completely flattened. I thought it was the stainless steel work piece work hardening. Then I realized I was trying to drill into one of the chuck jaws! It didn't even leave a mark on the jaw. Now I have made my own grinding attachment by mounting a DC treadmill motor on the cross slide, after removing the compound slide and making a cone shaped spigot to mount the grinder at the center height. I made an ER32 collet holder to mount directly on the shaft of the DC motor. I will put it on my RUclips channel one day. But I don't know how good my machining is, and also feel a bit hesitant about attacking the jaws with it. I'm not aware of any real problems, but it was interesting that you said that the grinder isn't critical, and users may be unaware of the source of problems such as using parting tools. But the biggest and best tip you presented was how to mount the ring. So here is a big Thank You for an excellent video. Subscribed. By the way I am a KIwi in Thames and the lathe has the original Burnerd chuck that it had new at Te Puke High School, where I did engineering classes.
@@evanlewis652 Hi Evan. Sorry I missed your interesting comments until now. My father was a draftsman/designer at AG Price when we lived in Thames in the 60's. I still love that area of NZ. Cheers Cliff
@@Threadexpress Hi Cliff, I am in Tennessee right now. Your father probably knew "Nelson" who was also in design at Eastman. He is still doing CAD design by contract and has a huge home workshop. We have been restoring two Tangye stationary steam engines at the Goldmine Experience in Thames. Well worth a visit! They are opening a new blacksmith shop on Nov 12th 2022 with a steam day. I am already looking forward to getting back on my lathe in Thames. I will add a post about my grinding attachment.
I was concerned about said problems,
And was told to do the grind a little differently
But your method super seeds what I seen
Thanks
Thanks for the feedback. Cheers, Cliff
Brilliant use of a rubber band in the introduction!
Cheers!
Makes a difficult process easy to understand. Thanks! I've got an old Chuck to work with.
Thanks for the feedback. Cliff
Time to check my chucks! Thanks for sharing.
Cheers! Cliff
Great info, now I can justify buying that tool post grinder!
Yes you can! Cheers Cliff
I'm new at metal working. How do you machine the groove in the jaws? Aren't they hardened?
Hi - I should have covered that in more detail. They are hardened, but tungsten carbide will cut the jaws with careful light cuts. Cliff
Great info Cliff! Thank you very much Sir. Best wishes from Orlando, Florida U.S.A.
Cheers John! Cliff
Great video Cliff very cleaver trick!
Cheers Sam!
What's the best way to make that grove on the chuck jaws, did you just clamp something between the jaws, spin it up and use a tool in the tool post to remove that material or did you remove the jaws from the chuck?
Yes, I machined it as you described using carbide, slow RPM and light cuts. Cliff
@@Threadexpress Thanks Cliff, I have an old colchester from the 20s/30s that im restoring, there's still a long list of things to do but at least I know what I need in order to get its old 3 jaw chuck working nicely again.
@@bradley9856 Nice! I restored an old Colchester Triumph back in the day, including re machining the whole bed to get the hollow out, with a cutting head mounted off the carriage, using packers stopping it from sinking into the hollow during machining, then lapped the carriage on to the bed manually. Cliff
@@Threadexpress oh wow, luckily I think the ways of my lathe are in quite good condition actually. if I tighten up the carriage at the head end of the ways it's still able to move all the way to the tail without getting tighter, I'm yet to measure it properly but will do that when I get the chance.
When you say you used packers what do you mean by that?
@@bradley9856 Beside the actual bed slideway there is an unworn section of bed slideway from memory, it may have been the tailstock way, I fitted a packer between it and the carriage to keep the carriage from dropping down the worn section when I was re machining the main slideways.
My question is how to find out the proper backlash between the spiral located the opposite side of the conic teeth of a disc and the spiral on the jaws
Hi - Are you asking Jaw Scroll teeth in Scroll spiral backlash? Cliff
@@Threadexpress yes
@@Віталій-ц8ъ I am curious why you want to know what that backlash is? Cliff
very interesting video
question sir , how to machine the cut out in the jaws ?
Hi Tom. Grip a piece of diameter to lock the jaws tight then turning with light cuts and slow rpm, using a carbide insert tool left and right shapes, to machine out a slot - or do it with a carbide end mill in a mill with a rotary table. Cliff
@@Threadexpress thanks for information 👍
Envy time 😉
Definitely a Very Nice, Tool Post Grinder.
Usually when you see these items in a video they are in worse condition than the Lathe 😂
Not surprised to see Cliff with such a Nice example 👍
First item on my list when I purchased a New Lathe was to buy a Bison Lathe Chuck.
Yes many years ago I bought a new Emco lathe with that toolpost grinder - but I only sold the lathe! Cheers Cliff
great video !
Thanks! Cliff
Nice!
But what if you have play on de scroll, so that the scroll can move up and down in de X direction?
Have you ever come across this?
Hi Mark. Good to hear from someone thinking deeply about this! Yes play on the scroll bearing or a non concentric scroll thread can be an issue with some chucks, and is a minor accuracy issue on all chucks. The procedure in my video is still needed to correct the jaw grip squareness and straightness, but for accurate work of different diameters the work concentricity may still need to be dialed in (I use a 'floating backplate' as mentioned in other videos). When repeat parts are made after the chuck is dialed in for that diameter, concentricity tends to repeat well. Cheers Cliff
@@Threadexpress Thanks Cliff, all clear, cheers!☺
Hi, I'm a Machine Tool fitter and worn scroll plates as well as worn jaws are a common problem. There isn't much you can do about worn scroll plates unfortunately, and I have seen turners giving the chuck jaws a biff with a hide mallet to get the best out of a worn out chuck. Not ideal I know, but if you're really struggling for accuracy and are not in a hurry you could always use a 4 Jaw chuck.
Great job Cliff, I need to do the same on my weiler 280. What shape of tool did You use to machine that additional groove in front of jaws? And did You block jaws during this internally by some shaft?
Hi MM. Thanks for the feedback. The tool shape from memory was 60 deg carb inserts, tipped to suit and lots of shallow light cuts. Yes with a shaft inside the jaws to clamp them stiff. Cheers Cliff
great tip! thanks :)
i will run to my lathe now to check it out :)
Thanks for the feedback. Cheers, Cliff
i drill pin hole in the tip of the jaw ,insert 3 pins chuck on a ring with the pins and grind, always chuck with the number 1 key hole, for the most accuracy
I should have mentioned that - thanks, Cliff
That's what we used to do but using a boring bar.👍
Cheers! Cliff
Thanks. I have spent hours trying to figure out what's going on with my cheap ass lathe chuck.
Cheers! Cliff
What grinding stones do you recommend?
Hi John. You are only grinding off a few thou so the exact specs are not too critical. If you need to buy, ask the supplier for a medium grain for hardened steel with sizing to suit your grinder. Cheers, Cliff
I have being turning 30 years now and I don't like hard jaws , 9 time's out of ten I bore soft jaws through to grip said component dia , hard jaws may not be the correct radius for the job and could mark it .
Thanks for your thoughts! Cliff
A good way or else you can drill three small holes into to front of all the jaws on the smaller diameter steps, insert three small bolts with heads and grip a small diameter ring out in front with the three bolt heads . This will position the jaws the same way.
Yes. thanks for your comment. Cliff
One of the best prison made products from the land of one of our main comie enemies. 😊.and you wounder why they won't get it right ,and still the problem lies within you D.A.😊
Low price without import taxes - and we can't resist.
What do you think of Winki's Workshop method? ruclips.net/video/QUbtJQhYonQ/видео.html Looks a but quicker. Surprisingly his carbide tips didn't object to intermittent cutting of hard material using very light cuts.
Hi Evan. Yes I saw that video. The problem with closing on to side spacers is that it can displace the jaws into a different sideways clearance position than normal. Using carbide it is difficult to take the absolute minimum off and get a perfect cut. Cheers Cliff
only good for one diameter. 3-jaws aren't intended for concentricity without shimming. If you want concentricity use an adjustable jaw like a typical 4-jaw chuck.
Hi - The grinding procedure gets the inside of the jaws at least in good angular alignment and not bell mouthed, but I agree that in that some chucks, the scrolls are not concentric. However, a 'floating backplate' allows concentricity adjustment more quickly than a 4 jaw. Cheers, Cliff
First, You talk a lot friend, plus don’t need to machine the jaws. Use a machining ring made in England . It holds the jaws just like u have. Don’t grind either, horrible grit. Use a normal boring bar , carbide , ceramic or cbn.
Thanks
Hi - Do you have a link or name of that ring, how it holds on closing the jaws?
I disagree with you on using a boring bar. Cheers, Cliff
@@Threadexpress hmm why not use a boring bar? CBN is the hot ticket IMO and does not generate grinding dust obviously.
@@bigbattenberg For intermittent cuts grinding is the best option. Cheers, Cliff
Who doing this, wouldn't know this 🤔
Machining a groove in your (hardened) jaws is overly complicated. i found a better way, thanks you a YT comment, credits where credits are due. I made a blog post on the topic. Sharing on YT of URLs seem pretty much impossible, so if you are interested please drop me a line.
Yes, there is a side pinching method, but that is not so accurate as it can displace the jaws unevenly sideways, Cheers, Cliff
@@Threadexpress Why are you assuming it's the pinching method?
@@bigbattenberg If not, please describe it. Cheers.
@@Threadexpress I offered to share it but your reactions are telling enough, so fine, be that way.
@@bigbattenberg You misunderstand me. The two methods I know of that avoid machining the jaws are the side pinching blocks and using a ring that bears on the jaw's bevels, but both these methods can displace the jaws within their clearance sideways. If your method is different, please describe it so we can all benefit. Cheers
कुछ नही होगा ,