Maybe this has been going on for years, but i'm appreciating consistent videos every week. The video editing is top notch too, this means quinn is spending substantial hours every week for this. Thank you!
@@Blondihacks Impressive attendance Quinn, teachers favourite no doubt. Yes, excellent content, technically and informative, the jokes are on fire 🔥. All the best for the next 3.5 years. Regards John Quinn.
Honestly, I loved the 'misleading thumbnail' thumbnail. Really enjoy your sense of humour and, of course, your method of sharing your incredible skill set.
Talent will hit the target. Genius can see the targets that no one else sees. -And you have a gift for showing us the obvious that we never thought of! This kind of maintenance should be on everyone's calendar. Thank you!
Orange sticks get used, or maybe now were used, in the film industry to clean the insides of cameras. I wonder if they'd be useful for removing small bits of metal.
Most absolutely excellent as always -> objective -> planning -> execution -> outcome - I really appreciate the time and effort required so a HUGE thank you
Some of my viewers have recommended your channel, I’m a complete novice and just got a Myford ML7 so ready for some binge watching to soak up some knowledge, new subscriber 👍
Thanks for another informative and useful video Quinn! It would not have occurred to me to use WD-40 for cleaning nor to use way oil in a chuck. I just cleaned my three drawer chuck per your recommendations. As I look around my workshop I see lots of tools and supplies that were inspired by you! You rock! Thanks for all your great videos.
I not long watched this video and I gave my 3 jaw chuck a service and surprised how well it is still considering the work it's gone through for 12 years old. So thanks for the video. I'll look at the 4 jaw chuck and the live centre over the next few days.
Mr.Crispin's poor brother...but what he doesn't know can't hurt him. Can it?. Quinn, have you ever watched 'ThatLazyMachinist'? He's like the Canadian version of Mr. Lyle, a retired shop teacher who is very knowledgeable and an excellent teacher with a large body of work, but is yet to be discovered by the home machinist genre. He's really great to watch.
Good afternoon Quinni. First a Thank you. I cut my teeth on very large Lathes by Cincinnati, Milacron & LeBlonde, Bridgeport Mills. I didnt even know these smaller machines existed until a few months ago. Been a Minute. Your channel has been both informative and enjoyable, especially the Boring parts! ( Nice touch ) My channel been dormant for health reasons and a cross country move. You helped me decide on what to buy for my Small engine shop. Bolton ZX45A MIll, and Weiss WBL290F Lathe. Ive got a few hundred hours of tube time watching you & others. I am fascinated by some of the machine tooling builds you and others do. At the GE carbide shop, if you couldn't manufacture a part in the machine shop you couldn't work there, Kudos to you and the rest of the Mini Machine Operators. Be seeing ya , God Bless and Thanks again. Poppa Phill ps: hope to have the channel up and running Mid May.
youtubers and integrity. I honestly respect the majority of the channels I watch, you all seem like decent people who put in an effort to make a fun and quality video. On the other hand, if you watch some of the "famous" people channels, say SNL for instance, you may tend to notice the creepy, almost not human nature of the comment sections or it could be those smiling faces are run through a translator for someone who may speak Chinese or Farci for their native language or it could just be plain old bots. I dunno but I have noticed it on a number of those types of people's submissions. What is a few hundred or a thousand for the bot account when it can earn you millions? so yeah, not my thing, don't lie to me like that. thank you for the videos, Quinn. have a good one.
Perfect timing. I was just checking the runout on my 3-Jaw...getting around +/-0.0025. It is a Taiwan precision chuck from PM, and I think it should be better. But I hadn't looked at the specs and had to leave the machine a couple of hours ago worrying about the chuck. And I stumbled into this video by luck. I will sleep better. THANK YOU.
I strip, clean, oil and reassemble my 3 jaw Pratt Burnerd chuck about once a year, it gets full of muck even with the relatively little use my lathe gets. Especially if you ever turn brass, those chips get in everywhere.
A big collector of chips in chucks is the gap between the chuck and backing plate. A piece of 1/4" thick Ethafoam (polyethylene packing foam) cut to shape will compress into the gap when the chuck is reassembled. It's resistant to coolant and oils and will keep chips and swarf from accumulating there.
Quinn, Fun an informative as always. Love you dry sense of humor and tricks, very funny. Reading comments I see no one mentioning non-petroleum, water based cleaners. I find myself using them more and more as they are so cheap. I wipe as much gunk as I can first, then in complete violation of all safety rules hit the parts with compressed air before moving on to the grease cutting cleaner of choice. My current favorite is “Super Clean” but I’ve tried a number and they all work pretty well. By using them full strength in combination with various brushes and sometimes, depending on the job, with a cheap pressure washer and/or hot water, I can get things so clean that it takes only a little WD-40 to do the final details and prevent any oxidation. Anyway, just a thought. Love all your lessons and adventures. Cheers, Will
I also use "q tips" for cleaning. In the UK we call them cotton buds. I also find pipe cleaners very handy for cleaning too. Mr Crispins brother recently got bitten by a lion, so I don't think he will need his toothbrush for a while.
Hi Quinn If you machine the backing plate slightly larger so that the spigot is a loose fit with the chuck then it is possible to achieve zero runout. Just loosen the three holding bolts and tap the chuck to get zero runout. After it is centered tighten the three mounting bolts. Full disclosure, that is what I have read in a lathe manual.
Another superb tutorial, Quinn. I have a 3" chuck from an old mini lathe that I use for small parts. Instead of making a standard back plate for it, I made a back plate with a 1.5" stem on it which I can mount in my 4 jaw allowing me to precisely dial in parts mounted in the 3 jaw with the 4 jaw. Chucks in tandem. Anyway, that Chinese 3 incher is in desperate need of a good cleaning. You've motivated me.
Thanks for that Quinn, I have just cleaned my old Clarke CL430 lathe chuck and its now running only 0.02mm out which I think is ok for a cheap lathe, now just got to master my surface finish.
Q-tips are an under utilized item when cleaning, in my opinion anyways. I like to use the single cotton end ones that are 6” long with a wooden stems. Better leverage and longer reach. Great video.
Great video! Most 3 jaw chucks have a marked pinion that will give you the best concentricity. Yours appears to be the one marked “0”. Some chucks like Buck Adjust-tru only have one exposed pinion to eliminate the chance of error. Try it, your chuck is probably more accurate and repeatable than you think. As always, thanks for sharing!
@@bobweiram6321 No, only tighten the marked pinion always. This would give you the least amount of runout the chuck can offer. The factory typically trues the jaws at final assembly with only the marked pinion. Hope this helps.
Good information , I have an Atlas Commercial branded as Craftsman made in 1970 , will have to look at cleaning the 3 jaw chuck , thank you Quinn for the great video
Good video. ⭐⭐⭐⭐ A cheap Chinesium Chuck -- can sure take a great deal of deburring - I must have spent an hour on mine. But it was so much smoother, and less crunchy afterward. That screw head was a beauty. In mine, that inner gear was a bear to remove and re-intall. The inner shaft was not uniformly machined. Thankfully my cheap chuck can get to less than a thou' - luck of the draw. Funny, when reassembling I didn't realize that each jaw had a specific location. Of course immediately realized after turning them into to a mismatch. When I dismantled the old 4 jaw chuck that came with mine - I found difficulty removing one of the 4 bolts to the backing -- it was epoxied in place ! Turns out the threaded hole for that one had a broken tap in it. So the guy that bought it originally really got Hosed by a seller. Could not get that piece of tap out of there - did not effect the runout; but will make me concerned under heavy loads.
This advice applies to most cheap tools, including hand tools. I have numerous pairs of pliers I have bought for the lowest price that have been turned from unusable scratchy things that hurt to use to tools that are a joy to use by just scrubbing them down with WD40 or your solvent of choice and lubrication. Oil is apparently an expensive luxury to a segment of the tool making world.
Thanks for showing his. I imagine my NOVA wood lathe chucks are in the same condition after a few years. I know wood dust does not wear on the chuck parts like metal bits will but they can gum things up and make it stiff to adjust. So I think I will tear down one and see what the internal condition is and clean it up. 02:45 I think they use old motor oil as a way to dispose of the waste. Ship the waste overseas as lubricant and you don't have to process it as hazardous waste. I bet they do the same with that smelly paint that seems to only come from China.
The change in run-out may actually depend on which pinion you use to tighten the jaws. If the scroll is a slightly loose fit in the chuck body then, depending on which pinion is used to tighten it, the scroll (and jaws) will be pushed to one side or another.
I decided (after owning it for almost a year) to measure the runout on the 3-jaw chuck on my LMS 7x14" lathe by chucking a large end mill in it and found it was 4-5 thousands. First test was to move the jaws to different positions but the runout stayed the same. The runout on the chuck body was very good, less than a thousand. I identified which jaw was opposite the high side and pulled it, smeared layout bluing on the gripping surface and picked a face mill whose diameter most closely matched the arc of the jaw. I gave the jaw a couple careful strokes with 320 paper wrapped around the end mill and checked runout. I kept repeating this until runout got down to a thousand, and at that point it just seemed to move around as I would give the low jaw another stroke or 2, so I called it good enough!. This doesn't help runout for the internal holding jaws, but the majority of my turning seems to use the external gripping jaw surface and besides, I have nothing I can use to check egocentricity for the other jaw surfaces. So IMHO, an hour well spent!
Ever since you bought that chuck, I’ve been waiting for a nod to the ToT comment when he bought a new chuck “You thought I'd bought an F or perhaps a G…but No, I bought an H”!! LOL
Sage advice. Probably complied with roughly as often as men stop to ask directions when driving 😉. You can (if you dare), use the "poor man's griptru" trick if for some reason your full set of high precision collets won't do the job. Machine between .005" and .010" off the diameter of that precious register on the backplate 😱. When you attach the chuck to the backplate, just nip the bolts (for now). Mount the chuck on the lathe spindle and insert a piece of stock with the diameter you want to run true in the chuck jaws, tightening the jaws as normal. Now, using an indicator and a soft-faced hammer, tappy-tap-tap the chuck until your workpiece runs true. NOW tighten the retaining bolts holding chuck to baseplate - the friction between the faces of chuck and baseplate will cope with just about anything a hobbyist would knowingly ask of their machine.
If you tighten the nominating pinion, or "zero" pinion last, you may get less run out. It's the last pinion tightened when the jaws were ground at the factory 😊. Cheers!
On my chunk they even saved the money for a back plate :-) This really helps to reduce the chips in front of the Lathe, as they are now inside the chuck ;-)
Lol I've got the same chuck and after cleaning Deburring reassembly i got lucky with just under 1 thousand run out on 3/4 pin and after testing various sizes etc worst I got was 3 thousandth so I left it alone and just keep it cleaned and oiled and don't wanna take it apart again and upset anything 😂😂😂
I prefer a grease with Molybdenum, Pratt Bunerd (Chuck manufacturers), supply a very sticky Molybdenum grease. Max Grant showed using a dry Molybdenum spray, which I've since purchased, trying this on next strip down. Great work and video, thanks for sharing.
Quinn , very informative video F.Y.I the shop I work at rebuilds air brake valves and they use industry Q-Tips every day because they work well cleaning the very small passage ways ....
Thanks for the vid. I have been lazy about getting into the back of my precision cost engineered chuck made of the finest Chinesium but I suppose I'll get to it now that you've prodded. Just on a side note, that safety shield holding bar, from which you have removed the all-unimportant shield always used to get in my way when using a hacksaw to finish parting. If you open up the face plate on the console above it, you can very easily remove it without impacting anything and the safety switch latches closed when the bar is removed.
Air tool tight, AKA "farm tight." Machining a lot of brass seems to make it necessary to clean the chuck even more frequently. That stuff goes everywhere! The pins for the pinions aren't really set screws; just locator pins that are threaded to keep them mostly in the same place and to serve as thrust "bearings" for the pinion gears. Don't diss that "H" brand chuck. It's the ever popular Hua Pai brand! Lots of Grizzlies come with the same brand of chucks. Seriously, it's amazing what a good cleaning and debur will do for cheap tooling. Be sure to clean the WD-40 out with mineral spirits. WD-40 can turn into primordial goo given half a chance.
Very informative video Quinn. “Q Tips” as you Americans call them and eye make up swabs are the most used tools in my workshop, to the point where my wife thinks I’m up to more than machining/woodworking in my shed. 😂 They are fantastic and have so many uses.
Well i have to say that was interesting, after watching your video i decided to clean my chuck being a second hand lathe and the dam thing is quite spot on i thaught it definitely deserves it. Let's say yours was quite clean, thank you for the great video.
Thanks Quinn I did that to my 3 jaw about 3 years back but it needs it a lot again. Unfortunately it is STILL cold here and my shop is not heated... sigh... count me a lathe voyeur till it warms up :)
Q-tips are great, but don't forget interdental brushes! They are great for cleaning out chips from threaded holes and other small spaces, and they come in many different sizes.
Hi Quinn I was wondering if you can buy new gears ⚙️ for your lathe head. Also I'm wondering if you can just replace all the moving moving parts with tempered steel gears ⚙️ thanks for all the hard work you put into your projects.
My, What a Big Can you have! I have to find that sized can of WB-40, empty is fine. Think of the conversations one could have as it sits in a place of honour atop of the fireplace mantel.
Might be worth adding pipe cleaners, baby wipes, dental picks to your cleaning set, and misc firearms cleaning utensils. I got into hobby machining after the military and have found use for my rifle cleaning supplies again. Honestly, cleaning rods that thread together are so overlooked I just wish I could find something like that made of plastic. At the moment I use a chopstick and q-tip to clean the inside of my spindle. It's a magnet for dust and debris of all kinds. Also, you should never take away the oil whirlwind from someone! Let them find out themselves haha.
Carful, Billy will be after you!
She;s steeling your best material. Mr Crispine
Maybe this has been going on for years, but i'm appreciating consistent videos every week. The video editing is top notch too, this means quinn is spending substantial hours every week for this. Thank you!
You’re welcome! Haven’t missed a week in the entire 3.5 years of this channel. Thank YOU for watching! ☺️
@@Blondihacks Impressive attendance Quinn, teachers favourite no doubt. Yes, excellent content, technically and informative, the jokes are on fire 🔥.
All the best for the next 3.5 years.
Regards John Quinn.
She has a guy named CHUCK doing that I guess ! Lol 😂
This is seriously a highlight of every Saturday for me!
Off-center slots on the screws really give it that artisanal touch.
A clear sign that they were hand made.
Love your sense of humor...mr. Crispin's brothers toothbrush....great👌😊
Honestly, I loved the 'misleading thumbnail' thumbnail. Really enjoy your sense of humour and, of course, your method of sharing your incredible skill set.
Ya, I was chuckling. Kind of a comfortable feeling of unanimity in this individualized world.
Every time I see you scrubbing with a toothbrush it reminds me to go back and watch the “Ratchet toothbrush” video. Thanks for sharing!
with an old dog that can't learn new tricks you can remind us of the ones we learned a while back and forget to use!!!!
God Bless.
It just wouldn't be the weekend without a Blondiehacks video!
Wow, Mr. Crispin's Brother's toothbrush really gets around!
It's the only one that's good enough for the job.
Talent will hit the target. Genius can see the targets that no one else sees. -And you have a gift for showing us the obvious that we never thought of! This kind of maintenance should be on everyone's calendar. Thank you!
Cracked me up with the Mr Crispin reference.
That joke was for a limited, but prestigious, audience
This lady is a good teacher.
The Chuck looks and works like new now. Don’t forget to give the tooth brush back to me crispins brother.
Brilliant instructive videos with humour...a video on drill sharpening would be much appreciated, many thanks
I always get a good chuckle within the first minute of your videos (H brand). Yes, I am a fan of "Dad jokes." Thank you for improving my Saturdays!
you can use paper bag over the Chuck then run it for high-speed for a few minutes that will catch all the extra oil
Like that idea 💡 . Brilliant.
Another thing I use for cleaning small parts and getting into tight spaces is bamboo skewers from supermarket
Orange sticks get used, or maybe now were used, in the film industry to clean the insides of cameras. I wonder if they'd be useful for removing small bits of metal.
12:28 and here is why they give us chuck safety covers - to protect us form oil :)
If something works for you (q tips , etc ) then it's not anything people can laugh at. It works . That's how all new ideas come into being .
I used Q-tips just yesterday for cleaning out a part. I cannot imagine why someone would laugh at you for it. They work excellent.
Great tutorial Quinn,
I think every Lathe user should have a Chucking Day once a year ! :)
Most absolutely excellent as always -> objective -> planning -> execution -> outcome - I really appreciate the time and effort required so a HUGE thank you
Always interesting, and love the humor.
It's a rare thing to hear a Polish brand mentioned as a synonym of quality, go Bison! 😁 Awesome video as always 👍👍👍🔥🔥🔥🔥
Poland makes awesome machine tooling 😄
Some of my viewers have recommended your channel, I’m a complete novice and just got a Myford ML7 so ready for some binge watching to soak up some knowledge, new subscriber 👍
Thanks for another informative and useful video Quinn! It would not have occurred to me to use WD-40 for cleaning nor to use way oil in a chuck. I just cleaned my three drawer chuck per your recommendations.
As I look around my workshop I see lots of tools and supplies that were inspired by you! You rock! Thanks for all your great videos.
WD-40 is mostly mineral spirits (>50%) and refined mineral oils (> 25%) so it is a good choice.
I not long watched this video and I gave my 3 jaw chuck a service and surprised how well it is still considering the work it's gone through for 12 years old. So thanks for the video. I'll look at the 4 jaw chuck and the live centre over the next few days.
Mr.Crispin's poor brother...but what he doesn't know can't hurt him. Can it?.
Quinn, have you ever watched 'ThatLazyMachinist'? He's like the Canadian version of Mr. Lyle, a retired shop teacher who is very knowledgeable and an excellent teacher with a large body of work, but is yet to be discovered by the home machinist genre. He's really great to watch.
Q-Tips are quite useful for “shopping” a pinball machine. Especially for cleaning the black dust from the playfield lamp inserts. Well done Quinn.
Good afternoon Quinni. First a Thank you. I cut my teeth on very large Lathes by Cincinnati, Milacron & LeBlonde, Bridgeport Mills. I didnt even know these smaller machines existed until a few months ago. Been a Minute. Your channel has been both informative and enjoyable, especially the Boring parts! ( Nice touch ) My channel been dormant for health reasons and a cross country move. You helped me decide on what to buy for my Small engine shop. Bolton ZX45A MIll, and Weiss WBL290F Lathe. Ive got a few hundred hours of tube time watching you & others. I am fascinated by some of the machine tooling builds you and others do. At the GE carbide shop, if you couldn't manufacture a part in the machine shop you couldn't work there, Kudos to you and the rest of the Mini Machine Operators. Be seeing ya , God Bless and Thanks again. Poppa Phill ps: hope to have the channel up and running Mid May.
This has become the best part of my Saturday.
youtubers and integrity. I honestly respect the majority of the channels I watch, you all seem like decent people who put in an effort to make a fun and quality video. On the other hand, if you watch some of the "famous" people channels, say SNL for instance, you may tend to notice the creepy, almost not human nature of the comment sections or it could be those smiling faces are run through a translator for someone who may speak Chinese or Farci for their native language or it could just be plain old bots. I dunno but I have noticed it on a number of those types of people's submissions. What is a few hundred or a thousand for the bot account when it can earn you millions? so yeah, not my thing, don't lie to me like that.
thank you for the videos, Quinn. have a good one.
7:20 Qtips are handy, but they can leave cotton strands behind which can be a problem in some situations. I follow up with brake cleaner.
Prep H works well also
Perfect timing. I was just checking the runout on my 3-Jaw...getting around +/-0.0025. It is a Taiwan precision chuck from PM, and I think it should be better. But I hadn't looked at the specs and had to leave the machine a couple of hours ago worrying about the chuck. And I stumbled into this video by luck. I will sleep better. THANK YOU.
I strip, clean, oil and reassemble my 3 jaw Pratt Burnerd chuck about once a year, it gets full of muck even with the relatively little use my lathe gets. Especially if you ever turn brass, those chips get in everywhere.
Brass chips are the worst. I find them in my food. 🤣
@@ChristopherHallett No, I bought it used to go with my DSG 13 by 42, a metric 250mm 3 jaw, then I bought two new sets of jaws for it.
@@Blondihacks Not so loud, everyone will want some🤦♂️
Nothing like a bit of machine maintenance, thanks for sharing
"Preparations A through G were a complete failure. I present to you, Preparation H!" 🤣
A big collector of chips in chucks is the gap between the chuck and backing plate. A piece of 1/4" thick Ethafoam (polyethylene packing foam) cut to shape will compress into the gap when the chuck is reassembled. It's resistant to coolant and oils and will keep chips and swarf from accumulating there.
I have used a good old skwirt of
No more gaps....which painters use in cracks...you can always get it out in a few years
Quinn, Fun an informative as always. Love you dry sense of humor and tricks, very funny. Reading comments I see no one mentioning non-petroleum, water based cleaners. I find myself using them more and more as they are so cheap. I wipe as much gunk as I can first, then in complete violation of all safety rules hit the parts with compressed air before moving on to the grease cutting cleaner of choice. My current favorite is “Super Clean” but I’ve tried a number and they all work pretty well. By using them full strength in combination with various brushes and sometimes, depending on the job, with a cheap pressure washer and/or hot water, I can get things so clean that it takes only a little WD-40 to do the final details and prevent any oxidation. Anyway, just a thought. Love all your lessons and adventures. Cheers, Will
Cool! I learned something about how lathe chucks are built.
Personally I find that way oil makes my skin feel smoother. Tastes great too!
A little WD-40 for shaving irritation works fine and impresses the ladies as well!
I also use "q tips" for cleaning. In the UK we call them cotton buds. I also find pipe cleaners very handy for cleaning too. Mr Crispins brother recently got bitten by a lion, so I don't think he will need his toothbrush for a while.
Hi Quinn If you machine the backing plate slightly larger so that the spigot is a loose fit with the chuck then it is possible to achieve zero runout. Just loosen the three holding bolts and tap the chuck to get zero runout. After it is centered tighten the three mounting bolts. Full disclosure, that is what I have read in a lathe manual.
I’m amazed Mr Crispin’s brother’s toothbrush made it all the way across the pond. 🤔
Another superb tutorial, Quinn. I have a 3" chuck from an old mini lathe that I use for small parts. Instead of making a standard back plate for it, I made a back plate with a 1.5" stem on it which I can mount in my 4 jaw allowing me to precisely dial in parts mounted in the 3 jaw with the 4 jaw. Chucks in tandem. Anyway, that Chinese 3 incher is in desperate need of a good cleaning. You've motivated me.
Thanks for that Quinn, I have just cleaned my old Clarke CL430 lathe chuck and its now running only 0.02mm out which I think is ok for a cheap lathe, now just got to master my surface finish.
My Sprocket the Riveter shirt showed up recently; I am very well pleased with it 😊
Q-tips are an under utilized item when cleaning, in my opinion anyways. I like to use the single cotton end ones that are 6” long with a wooden stems. Better leverage and longer reach. Great video.
I’ll have to remember that, especially because I like to chuck Q-tips on a drill.
Great video! Most 3 jaw chucks have a marked pinion that will give you the best concentricity. Yours appears to be the one marked “0”. Some chucks like Buck Adjust-tru only have one exposed pinion to eliminate the chance of error. Try it, your chuck is probably more accurate and repeatable than you think. As always, thanks for sharing!
@@bobweiram6321 No, only tighten the marked pinion always. This would give you the least amount of runout the chuck can offer. The factory typically trues the jaws at final assembly with only the marked pinion. Hope this helps.
Good information , I have an Atlas Commercial branded as Craftsman made in 1970 , will have to look at cleaning the 3 jaw chuck , thank you Quinn for the great video
Good video. ⭐⭐⭐⭐ A cheap Chinesium Chuck -- can sure take a great deal of deburring - I must have spent an hour on mine. But it was so much smoother, and less crunchy afterward.
That screw head was a beauty.
In mine, that inner gear was a bear to remove and re-intall. The inner shaft was not uniformly machined.
Thankfully my cheap chuck can get to less than a thou' - luck of the draw.
Funny, when reassembling I didn't realize that each jaw had a specific location. Of course immediately realized after turning them into to a mismatch.
When I dismantled the old 4 jaw chuck that came with mine - I found difficulty removing one of the 4 bolts to the backing -- it was epoxied in place !
Turns out the threaded hole for that one had a broken tap in it. So the guy that bought it originally really got Hosed by a seller.
Could not get that piece of tap out of there - did not effect the runout; but will make me concerned under heavy loads.
This advice applies to most cheap tools, including hand tools. I have numerous pairs of pliers I have bought for the lowest price that have been turned from unusable scratchy things that hurt to use to tools that are a joy to use by just scrubbing them down with WD40 or your solvent of choice and lubrication. Oil is apparently an expensive luxury to a segment of the tool making world.
I've got some Bernard chucks and they're a good un...
And some very old Taylor chucks that are getting quite rare and collectable now...
🇬🇧🙂
Thanks - I am now motivated to strip and clean my prestigious H-chuck 🤩
well hello Quinn , nice job! the noting the alignment procedure. I'm needing to do that on a couple of my machines.
Thanks for showing his. I imagine my NOVA wood lathe chucks are in the same condition after a few years. I know wood dust does not wear on the chuck parts like metal bits will but they can gum things up and make it stiff to adjust. So I think I will tear down one and see what the internal condition is and clean it up.
02:45 I think they use old motor oil as a way to dispose of the waste. Ship the waste overseas as lubricant and you don't have to process it as hazardous waste. I bet they do the same with that smelly paint that seems to only come from China.
The change in run-out may actually depend on which pinion you use to tighten the jaws. If the scroll is a slightly loose fit in the chuck body then, depending on which pinion is used to tighten it, the scroll (and jaws) will be pushed to one side or another.
I decided (after owning it for almost a year) to measure the runout on the 3-jaw chuck on my LMS 7x14" lathe by chucking a large end mill in it and found it was 4-5 thousands. First test was to move the jaws to different positions but the runout stayed the same. The runout on the chuck body was very good, less than a thousand.
I identified which jaw was opposite the high side and pulled it, smeared layout bluing on the gripping surface and picked a face mill whose diameter most closely matched the arc of the jaw. I gave the jaw a couple careful strokes with 320 paper wrapped around the end mill and checked runout. I kept repeating this until runout got down to a thousand, and at that point it just seemed to move around as I would give the low jaw another stroke or 2, so I called it good enough!. This doesn't help runout for the internal holding jaws, but the majority of my turning seems to use the external gripping jaw surface and besides, I have nothing I can use to check egocentricity for the other jaw surfaces. So IMHO, an hour well spent!
Ever since you bought that chuck, I’ve been waiting for a nod to the ToT comment when he bought a new chuck “You thought I'd bought an F or perhaps a G…but No, I bought an H”!! LOL
This chuck came with my lathe. It’s the same one that seemingly every import lathe comes with
Yeah Mr Crispin Mention!!
3 in 1 makes a garage door lubricant that has many more uses. Nice video, thanks 👍
Great video. I really liked the runout check at the end. Thanks for the video.
Sage advice. Probably complied with roughly as often as men stop to ask directions when driving 😉.
You can (if you dare), use the "poor man's griptru" trick if for some reason your full set of high precision collets won't do the job. Machine between
.005" and .010" off the diameter of that precious register on the backplate 😱. When you attach the chuck to the backplate, just nip the bolts (for now). Mount the chuck on the lathe spindle and insert a piece of stock with the diameter you want to run true in the chuck jaws, tightening the jaws as normal. Now, using an indicator and a soft-faced hammer, tappy-tap-tap the chuck until your workpiece runs true. NOW tighten the retaining bolts holding chuck to baseplate - the friction between the faces of chuck and baseplate will cope with just about anything a hobbyist would knowingly ask of their machine.
I knew I made that backplate an easy fit for a reason :)
Just got an old South Bend with a dirty chuck. 2am and you're making me stay up..lol. Thanks.
Newbie here so thank you for the info on the chuck.
If you tighten the nominating pinion, or "zero" pinion last, you may get less run out. It's the last pinion tightened when the jaws were ground at the factory 😊.
Cheers!
Nice video…I totally agree using oil and not grease….grease acts like a magnet for chips and dirt…it’s much easier to clean and service later too..👍
Love your work Quinn!
Cheers Quinn ,I know have Monday mornings job .list
1. Make coffee
2. Retire to the cave
3. Service 3 and 4 jaw chucks
And my chuck made yours look like a top of the range Swiss watchmaking one. Now mibes nice cheers Quinn
I rubber band some paper towels onto the chucks after lubing and spin them up.. Works well.
It also helps to use different pinions holes when you try to find a “happy” run-out position.
😯 Hey Quinn! - You gotta see the 'most accurate' lathe chuck restoration ever!
- Old Iron Machine Works - Big AZZ 6 Jaw Scroll Chuck Part 1, 2
The way you do it really helps my daily work..
I did it and you are more detailed..
On my chunk they even saved the money for a back plate :-) This really helps to reduce the chips in front of the Lathe, as they are now inside the chuck ;-)
Q-tips with wooden shafts are even better!
Thanks Toots, (G'Day from Melbourne Australia)
Re: face full of oil spots
I found cutting the bottom off a plastic gallon jug & fixing it over the freshly lubed chuck works real well.
McMaster has long wood q-tips. I get ones with a bulb on one end and a pointy cotton on the other end.
Lol I've got the same chuck and after cleaning Deburring reassembly i got lucky with just under 1 thousand run out on 3/4 pin and after testing various sizes etc worst I got was 3 thousandth so I left it alone and just keep it cleaned and oiled and don't wanna take it apart again and upset anything 😂😂😂
I prefer a grease with Molybdenum, Pratt Bunerd (Chuck manufacturers), supply a very sticky Molybdenum grease. Max Grant showed using a dry Molybdenum spray, which I've since purchased, trying this on next strip down.
Great work and video, thanks for sharing.
Quinn , very informative video F.Y.I the shop I work at rebuilds air brake valves and they use industry Q-Tips every day because they work well cleaning the very small passage ways ....
Thanks for the vid. I have been lazy about getting into the back of my precision cost engineered chuck made of the finest Chinesium but I suppose I'll get to it now that you've prodded. Just on a side note, that safety shield holding bar, from which you have removed the all-unimportant shield always used to get in my way when using a hacksaw to finish parting. If you open up the face plate on the console above it, you can very easily remove it without impacting anything and the safety switch latches closed when the bar is removed.
Air tool tight, AKA "farm tight." Machining a lot of brass seems to make it necessary to clean the chuck even more frequently. That stuff goes everywhere! The pins for the pinions aren't really set screws; just locator pins that are threaded to keep them mostly in the same place and to serve as thrust "bearings" for the pinion gears. Don't diss that "H" brand chuck. It's the ever popular Hua Pai brand! Lots of Grizzlies come with the same brand of chucks. Seriously, it's amazing what a good cleaning and debur will do for cheap tooling. Be sure to clean the WD-40 out with mineral spirits. WD-40 can turn into primordial goo given half a chance.
Very informative video Quinn. “Q Tips” as you Americans call them and eye make up swabs are the most used tools in my workshop, to the point where my wife thinks I’m up to more than machining/woodworking in my shed. 😂 They are fantastic and have so many uses.
I am not American
@@Blondihacks North American💔
Well i have to say that was interesting, after watching your video i decided to clean my chuck being a second hand lathe and the dam thing is quite spot on i thaught it definitely deserves it.
Let's say yours was quite clean, thank you for the great video.
Thanks Quinn I did that to my 3 jaw about 3 years back but it needs it a lot again. Unfortunately it is STILL cold here and my shop is not heated... sigh... count me a lathe voyeur till it warms up :)
Good enough for some space-grade woodworking.
This gets a like, just for the thumbnail. My wife will be jealous, but I’m subscribing.
Another excellent, useful and clear video.
Q-tips are great, but don't forget interdental brushes! They are great for cleaning out chips from threaded holes and other small spaces, and they come in many different sizes.
Hi Quinn I was wondering if you can buy new gears ⚙️ for your lathe head. Also I'm wondering if you can just replace all the moving moving parts with tempered steel gears ⚙️ thanks for all the hard work you put into your projects.
Cheap disposable natural fiber paint brushes trimmed with scissors to about 1/2" long bristles make wonderful cleaning brushes.
‘Cheap Chuck’, the guy who never pays for his round at the bar! 😂
I found my self centering chuck has ONE pinion (that I marked) the greatly improves runout and repeatability.
My, What a Big Can you have!
I have to find that sized can of WB-40, empty is fine.
Think of the conversations one could have as it sits in a place of honour atop of the fireplace mantel.
Oozing quality, extremely typically!
Thanks for the video. Liked your q tips idea.
Might be worth adding pipe cleaners, baby wipes, dental picks to your cleaning set, and misc firearms cleaning utensils. I got into hobby machining after the military and have found use for my rifle cleaning supplies again. Honestly, cleaning rods that thread together are so overlooked I just wish I could find something like that made of plastic. At the moment I use a chopstick and q-tip to clean the inside of my spindle. It's a magnet for dust and debris of all kinds.
Also, you should never take away the oil whirlwind from someone! Let them find out themselves haha.
I suspect those are zero pinions. also known as O-pinions.
🤦♀️
Yes, and they’re usually quite cheap and easy to get.
Typically everybody has one but Quinn has three! Tubers just have to go the extra, don't they?