I found the main issue with this style of boring to be swarf evacuation. In a longer bore it gets quite stuffed up. I ended up milling a flat all the way down the bar to give the chips some room to move in. Have a look at 'machining cylinders part 2' for similar work. Cheers, Crispin
Yes, excellent point! In my case I have a lot of material to remove and it’s cast iron, so it will have plenty of space. A flat on the bar is an excellent idea. I’ll remember that one!
My favorite line boring tip that came from a subscriber is to put the cutting hss blank at 45 degrees to the bar center. That way you can use a micrometer to set the cutting radius and also you get fine adjustments as at 45 degrees moving the cutting tip out 0.002" only puts 0.001" on the cutting radius. Again all in machining cylinders part two Incase that was confusing.
Genuinely LOL’d at the clickspring reference 😂 I was trying to remember why line boring looked so familiar, then recalled that it’s the method used for creating the spindle bearing bore on the Gingery lathe. Very cool video 👍
Back in the day when I first got involved with lathes, we called it "saddle boring" because the carriage is called the 'saddle'. Only ever did this once, to rebore the cylinder off a traction engine. Worked a treat... a quick freehand hone afterwards and it went back on. The lathe was a 12" (not exactly small) but the cylinder assembly (pretty big and weigh about 35kgs) just fit with a couple of wood packers to position it on the saddle. Happily it had 'built in' mounting holes that we used to clamp it to the saddle, which saved using clamps etc. As we had to made a new piston, the bore diameter was not critical...we made the piston to fit.......If memory serves (it was close to 60 years ago) we bored it about 1/16" over nominal as it had been pitted by being idle for a long time and we just wanted the pits out. With the bar between centres do nice deep centres in the bar for max ridgidity. With the fancy boring machines that are more common today, saddle boring is rarely used and many machinists have never seen it, and in fact have not heard of the technique. Great video to remind us home machinists out there that there's more than one way to skin a cat.. :-)
1:45 Whaaa? LOL This is one of the two things I love about Quinn, surprise and humor. 3 things, surprise, humor, and ruthless efficiency FOUR, 4 things, surprise, humor, ruthless efficiency, and nice red uniforms... Amongst the things I love about Quinn, are Oh I'll come in again....
I've been lineboring for many years, well done. I prefer to leave the cross hole in the bar round and use round tool bits, broken endmills and drill bits work well for this with a small flat ground in them. The set screws will hold things in place well enough, think welding shank. On larger jobs I use 3/8 and 1/2" sclcr boring bars cut down to length with ccmt inserts. I also like to tap the back side of the tool bit hole with fine threads so the diameter can be set with a set screw. I also have hollow bars made with very heavy wall tube that allow coolant or oil to be pumped in to the cutting edge for deep boring jobs. A quick connect air fitting on one end works well enough for a rotary union for the low rpm these jobs run at. Plug the other end and drill a small hole on either side of the cutting bit to allow coolant to pass through right to the cutting edge.
I have done this on a project that needed to bore through multiple webs (similar to an engine block). You can measure your bores by turning a loose-fitting, stepped go-no-go gauge to slide on the boring bar. You slide the gauge up to the hole after each pass until the "go" diameter barely fits then move to the next hole. While a set screw behind the cutter can provide tool advance, a little trig and a slanted tool hole will allow a precise advance per flat on the screw. Using the lathe as a horizontal boring mill is a great technique. Your videos always deliver.
3 minutes after publishing: 135 views 35 likes 17:14 long video 25% viewers hit like before seeng the result. It just shows how high quality videos you are doing. The machining Quinn! ❤ Absolutley epic 👍
Totally agree! I like before I've even started half the time as you just KNOW its going to be fun, educational, and interesting simply cause Quinn make it.... I don't own a lathe, mill, or anything... I just like watching and learning interesting things even if I have no actual way to use that knowledge!!!!
I will sometimes like before the end of a video, because I truly have been excited by the content. In this case I liked after I got to the end. When I decided that this could be useful to me.
Drill your broached hole on the none cutting side and run some fine threads in it. Use a fine thread set screw for a micrometer style adjust on tool depth. It is quite convenient.
Quinns video is great introduction to this subject but I like the idea of tapping a fine thread down the hole to be broached, I've since tried it and it works great, thank you.
Recent new subscriber and have to say, I've just found a gem of a channel. Super smart lady with a demeanour and way of presentation second to none. Top marks!. It's fantastic. Keep up the great work! Ireland sends many blessings!..☘☘☘
Blondihacks explanations are so clear. She should teach in technical school. I would add a set screw in the back of the HS knife. That would allow to set the knife depth precisely as I bore.
Excellent content. I'll be bing watching all of your other video's. Glad this channel came up for me. When your passionate about making things and machining the hard part is finding people who share your passion that you can talk too and are actually interested. The people in my life are not interested so I find myself bottling up my excitement mostly. It's the one reason I have considered making videos. It would be awesome to find people like you to share with and learn from. Thanking you for taking the time to do this. Have a great day and good luck with your projects.
Thanks Quinn, you did an outstanding job covering this on a small lathe. I've been deoing this work without the "lathe" professionally. (My largest job was about a 8" bore on a 20 yeard bucket for a mine. I could park my truck inside the bucket). There are "hundreds" of tricks one learns doing this type of work. Hat's off to you! You're marvelously skilled and adept at the trade!
Was just thinking about Clickspring when you made the comment, ha! That clock was a fun build to watch through. That's not a bad analogy about software. Mechanical engineering, machining, and software share similar test methodology. Perform unit testing on the individual components to ensure they work on their own, and only then do you do integration testing. Same way to diagnosing any problem - limit your variables and you'll find what's messing up much faster (or at all!)
I wish I had seen this video about 3 years ago. I line bored a cylinder for an antique hit and miss gas engine. The bore is approximately 4.500" and about 12" long. It took way more time to set it up in the lathe but it worked. This is the first video of yours I have watched so thank you Quinn 😊
That was an interesting insight into line boring on a lathe, thank you Quinn. My first ever observed line boring operation I saw was on a horizontal mill driven by overhead belts in a steam workshop way back in about 1968.
Clearly this is an opportunity for a double-carriage lathe, so you can have one on each side of the steady rest. This is great, as usual, and you do a good job of presenting it. FWIW I cleaned up my boring bar carefully end-to-end as I also use it as the alignment jig for measuring tailstock offset.
It's a testament to my ignorance that I really don't understand what's so special about line boring or why it's fundamentally different to using a boring bar. But, you achieved it with style, so thumbs up. If I ever get to the stage where I can actually hit my target diameter on the lathe, I might give it a try...
Great video Quinn. I am building a gas engine and I needed to make a line bore tool for the cylinder and this video provided me with some reassurance that I could do this with the mini machines that I have to work with. 🙏.
Great to see application of traditional approaches. I think this might be the only time I've seen someone use a drive plate and dog on RUclips. Turning between centres is such an elegant way to ensure precision and repeatability. Bravo!
This isn't my trade, or hobby, however I can watch a lathe being worked for hours and marvel at what it can do. Thanks so much for your time in showing us your fascinating hobby Quinn!
Hello from the UK. A great video and very informative, just thought I'd mention that here in the UK these are known as "between centres boring bars" - I made a 1" one (yes I'm still using imperial measurements) which has a sliding 'micrometer' attachment, this is used to set the cutting bit as fine as 1 thou increments. - Quinn keep those wonderful videos coming !!
Very timely! I have an upcoming project that needs line boring, so seeing how you got on with it has been very useful. Insightful comments too. I'm using a collet chuck to hold the headstock end. I was going to make the square hole right in the middle of the bar and grind the tool to put the cutting edge in the right place so I could cut in forward or reverse. Nice tip from John about threading the back side for micro-adjustment.
Love your work. You do add the stuff that others think are common knowledge. I also like I don’t have to listen to your life story before,during, and after.
Never going to be able to get a lathe, just to far out there $. But I still enjoy your videos & will keep watching. I’m learning a bunch so it never hurts to know the tips & tricks. Again good video. Thanks
Fascinating technique very well explained and demonstrated. Some time ago I line bored the bearings of a medium sized lathe on my small Emco Compact 8 lathe. Making the boring bar and setting up the machine was a lot of effort and took some time but the result was awesome and very precise.
Well done. You've probably seen Keith Fenner's line boring videos. Some are done on the lathe and some on the K&T horizontal mill with a universal vertical head. One thing that helps with tool bit adjustment is to partially thread the back side of the tool bit hole. That way you can use another setscrew to advance the tool bit in a less fiddly manner. I'm guessing, though, that you didn't have the space in your boring bar for that luxury.
Always fun to see a new way to use a machine. I often drill hole to the diagonal dimension of the tool bit and not make it square. This is mainly for tool holders /boring bars on the 9 inch South Bend. The cutting loads are low. On the line bar the square hole may make the tool setting more repeatable. I have filed a few square holes too. Also milled a slot on the end of the boring bar and welded a block over it to close it. You can get round tool bits too.
I normally set up the steady rest near the chuck, loosen the top arm and slide the rest to the other end and tighten the top arm again. This insures that the work is at the same height, end to end.
Nice work on the set up. Myford vertical slides fit well on these machines for holding work on the carriage. I think you can get Chinese ones too. I used one before I got the mill but never thought of it for line boring so thanks for that little jolt. Looking forward to seeing the actual project.
For line boring I have found Cutting Edge Engineering Australia makes really nice videos. It's often possible to take measurement without removing the boring bar. See their video "Line boring and Bore welding Caterpillar 775 Truck rear strut rod " from 15:06 onwards. Might not work for this project though.
That only works if the hole for the cutter is on center. She put hers off center needlessly, because the hole should have been on center and the tool bit ground to get the cutting edge on center. Then she could have made a snap gage to measure the bore. She will deem this comment as annoying and pedantic lol.
@@jerseyjoe2684 I think easiest would be drill another hole for measurement. Anyhow, nice to see these methods things are feasible even on small lathes.
@@DIYTAO Exactly what I was thinking. Drill two more centered holes in that boring bar, one before and one after the tool and make a snap guage like the one Curtis uses on Cutting Edge Engineering.
@@Cyruscosmo Of course making that special snap gauge would take time and effort, but so does repeatedly removing and re-centering entire boring bar for measurements. Also it sounds like interesting video project.
GREAT vid! Super-useful technique. I’m just about to get a PM lathe, a tool I’ve literally been waiting all my life for. Your channel, tips, methods and projects are going to come in really handy! 😁
Thanks enjoyed your video and its given me some good ideas for my own projects . Just restored a large TOS lathe and it does have T slots on the cross slide . Deep boring has been one of the things i want to do so thanks again
I used this method to bore the crankpin holes and main shaft holes for a large steam engine crankshaft. For perfect alignment I tack welded the crank webs (8 x 2-1/2 x 1-1/4 cold rolled steel bars) together, and the bored holes had their centers the same height on the lathe cross slide. This allowed boring into the crank webs without needing to touch the cross slide setup for the entire operation. Setting the boring cut to give a final bored diameter a few thousandths undersized avoids difficult fiddling with the boring bar cutter. After final bore, the shaft pieces (1-1/4 drill rod) are turned down a couple of thousandths on the lathe to make a heavy press fit into the crank webs. Much easier to hit the right shaft outside diameter turning the OD rather than hitting a precise bore diameter. Finally drilled and tapped the crankshaft/web joints for a couple of "po-boy" keys, with a couple of set csrews in series, rammed tight one behind another.
Always good for an entertaining metal video thanx Blondie 👍👍😂 My DIY Press has a 20ton cylinder the only bought part the rest is recycled metal and paint 😁 ... so respect for that one u use ...this I only use for press fits 🤪
Quin keep making those great videos. as long as I keep learning something new or something I forgot I will keep on watching. pretty soon I will attempt own project..
Amazing. Back in the 90s Bill Clinton pushed a button and turned off selective availability on the GPS system.. Overnight the GPS compass I *already owned* became much more useful and more accurate. Quinn does the same for my lathe with every video.
That, simply, was awesome. Thanks Quinn! I have a 14" lathe, but that lets me do 5-6 inch bores that are reasonably accurate, which is NOT something I could do with my little boring bar. And I like making tools :-)
20 ish years ago we needed a large air compressor for the live steam shop and by chance a previous employer was scrapping an old Kellogg American 340 series on a 120 gallon tank. The main issue was the high pressure side wrist pin had gotten loose and had gouged into the cylinder wall till the compressor locked up and broke the rod. Two main issues was the cylinder bore on the high pressure side was just under 3" diameter by almost 10" long and no automotive machine shop around had a boring machine that would do a sub 3" bore in excess of 9" long. So I built a similar setup but made a bearing bronze bushing that fit the taper of the headstock on my 16" american pacemaker and bored it out to 1.750", then built a 1.750 by about 36" long bar with a .375 tool thru it clamped and advanced with fine thread set screws. The carriage end of the bar was machined down to fit the slot on a tool holder and was aligned to travel into the headstock perfectly. Once ready I bolted the cylinder jug onto the face plate and at the slowest speed went about boring. The other main issue was a lack of parts available for an 40 or so year old Kellogg American air compressor and I doubt they ever offered oversized pistons. The size of the bore ended up being what I could get in a set of rings the next size over what I needed to clean the bore up and I had to make a piston to fit the bore and a rod to replace the broken one. Unfortunately all my pictures were on 3.5" floppies (old sony 91 camera at the time) and the floppies have all went bad.
Very timely video for me. I got a 5/16" square broach on Friday and will be making a bar on Monday. I'll be using it in my radial drill however with an outboard bearing for support. Ken
You can grind a tool bit from old center drill or other round HSS material, then a drill hole in boring bar to hold it. Cheap and effective for occasional line boring. Grind a flat for set screw lock to keep it from rotating in boring bar. Works !
Very well done! I remember my first time line boring! LUL It was a absolute mess! I must have broke 10 bits between many different issues! You did well Thanks for the Video!!!!
Great demo, thanks for sharing it. There is one thing folks need to remember before they do lineboting like this, that is to ensure their tailstock is centered to the bed. If the tailstock was used to create a taper on a previous project and not centered your line boring won’t go well if it must also be centered on the part itself.
Quinn, pushing small lathes where no small lathe has gone before. So that’s cool, and a lovely Saturday afternoon video. But that spoiler… if it turns out that you are the owner of a Goddess (which would be one of a small number of reasonable grounds for restricting your workshop space in the garage, in my mind) and maybe even work on it in your videos, then I may melt and you have wipe me into the gutter with some shop rags. _eeeek!_ dang, I really can’t wait until next Saturday!!
I really appreciate your videos. Thank you for making them, you're very informative and your explanations are understandable and accessible. Thanks a lot.
In my early machining days I got the job of square broaching a 1” square hole in a custom socket wrench. I drilled the pilot hole, then it was off to the hydraulic press. I squared up the sides of the broach with the work and started broaching. The broach was at least a couple of feet long, so as it went down I began to see my mistake too late. I was broaching a finished square hole that was 45 degrees to the work, because that is how square broaches work. Duh. So, Blondihacks, let that be a lesson for you haha.
Thanks for sharing! Got something like that coming up in one of my projects. I was thinking of two holes, one to use a tool to set the cutting depths. Very useful!!!
really fun video. doesn't apply here but i happen to know that MSC also sells line boring bar inserts. round OD square id. and there is a cap screw in the back for precision adjustments. i believe i saw this on Keith Fenner's channel on a 2" or 2.5" line boring bar.
I was just going to say that a useful mod to Quinn's boring bar would be a set screw on the back of the cutting tool slot to make fine adjustments to depth of cut.
When I worked at the lab, we had a 2" diameter line boring bar that had a set screw behind the cutting tool to advance it more accurately. I think it was tapped before the bar was broached.
Where did you go to school ? Machinist school? Or are you self taught? Your the best Machinist I have ever seen. Im self taught. And i wish I had a 3rd of your knowledge and skill.
Regarding adjusting the cutter to dimension, if you have the room a great way to do this is to add another setscrew on the rear end of the cutting tool. You can then slowly turn the screw, while watching your indicator. You can make very fine, progressive adjustments in this way.
Nice, thanks. I watched another video a while ago by The Shed Dweller where he put together a line boring setup to correct a factory misalignment in his tailstock quill. It was quite a tense setup since a serious mistake would have ruined his tailstock.
Hi Quin, the old school, on a job like this, would have recessed the centres so that they are less prone to being damaged! The recess would be a mm deep and a bit larger than the OD of the centre hole! I always do this on a job that needs to retain accuracy. Thanks for the vid.
Another great video. Boring bars are round out of necessity as in big jobs the work is stationary and the bar moves. In your case and supporting MrCrispin why not use a square or hex bar. You mentioned you used an old piece of tool steel and acquired a square broach. I think a less expensive option is to purchase round HSS and grind a flat on it for orientation. That way just drill a round hole (or many holes). On jobs with multiple bores you will run out of travel. This is addressed with multiple holes in the bar. Drilling beats broaching. Cheers
Another Citroen reference. I approve. Do you actually own one? You seem like you are just eccentric enough and just nerdy enough to own one. (that is a compliment btw ...). Sadly my dad's collection of them are rotting away and no longer viable but back in the day they were much fun to drive.
I found the main issue with this style of boring to be swarf evacuation. In a longer bore it gets quite stuffed up. I ended up milling a flat all the way down the bar to give the chips some room to move in. Have a look at 'machining cylinders part 2' for similar work. Cheers, Crispin
Yes, excellent point! In my case I have a lot of material to remove and it’s cast iron, so it will have plenty of space. A flat on the bar is an excellent idea. I’ll remember that one!
My favorite line boring tip that came from a subscriber is to put the cutting hss blank at 45 degrees to the bar center. That way you can use a micrometer to set the cutting radius and also you get fine adjustments as at 45 degrees moving the cutting tip out 0.002" only puts 0.001" on the cutting radius. Again all in machining cylinders part two Incase that was confusing.
Ooh, that’s another great idea
Note well. The Master has spoken.
@@MrCrispinEnterprises Great Tip, but you would need a 30° angle for 0.001" radius per 0.002" bar movement. 45° give 0.001412" radius per 0.001".
Genuinely LOL’d at the clickspring reference 😂
I was trying to remember why line boring looked so familiar, then recalled that it’s the method used for creating the spindle bearing bore on the Gingery lathe. Very cool video 👍
Back in the day when I first got involved with lathes, we called it "saddle boring" because the carriage is called the 'saddle'. Only ever did this once, to rebore the cylinder off a traction engine. Worked a treat... a quick freehand hone afterwards and it went back on. The lathe was a 12" (not exactly small) but the cylinder assembly (pretty big and weigh about 35kgs) just fit with a couple of wood packers to position it on the saddle. Happily it had 'built in' mounting holes that we used to clamp it to the saddle, which saved using clamps etc. As we had to made a new piston, the bore diameter was not critical...we made the piston to fit.......If memory serves (it was close to 60 years ago) we bored it about 1/16" over nominal as it had been pitted by being idle for a long time and we just wanted the pits out.
With the bar between centres do nice deep centres in the bar for max ridgidity.
With the fancy boring machines that are more common today, saddle boring is rarely used and many machinists have never seen it, and in fact have not heard of the technique.
Great video to remind us home machinists out there that there's more than one way to skin a cat.. :-)
1:45 Whaaa? LOL This is one of the two things I love about Quinn, surprise and humor. 3 things, surprise, humor, and ruthless efficiency FOUR, 4 things, surprise, humor, ruthless efficiency, and nice red uniforms... Amongst the things I love about Quinn, are
Oh I'll come in again....
I've been lineboring for many years, well done. I prefer to leave the cross hole in the bar round and use round tool bits, broken endmills and drill bits work well for this with a small flat ground in them. The set screws will hold things in place well enough, think welding shank. On larger jobs I use 3/8 and 1/2" sclcr boring bars cut down to length with ccmt inserts. I also like to tap the back side of the tool bit hole with fine threads so the diameter can be set with a set screw. I also have hollow bars made with very heavy wall tube that allow coolant or oil to be pumped in to the cutting edge for deep boring jobs. A quick connect air fitting on one end works well enough for a rotary union for the low rpm these jobs run at. Plug the other end and drill a small hole on either side of the cutting bit to allow coolant to pass through right to the cutting edge.
Excellent idea on internal lubrication.
I have done this on a project that needed to bore through multiple webs (similar to an engine block). You can measure your bores by turning a loose-fitting, stepped go-no-go gauge to slide on the boring bar. You slide the gauge up to the hole after each pass until the "go" diameter barely fits then move to the next hole. While a set screw behind the cutter can provide tool advance, a little trig and a slanted tool hole will allow a precise advance per flat on the screw. Using the lathe as a horizontal boring mill is a great technique. Your videos always deliver.
Loved this video as is tradition. Best content since cat toothbrushes. Please keep em coming. 🥸👍👀💥
3 minutes after publishing:
135 views
35 likes
17:14 long video
25% viewers hit like before seeng the result.
It just shows how high quality videos you are doing. The machining Quinn! ❤
Absolutley epic 👍
Totally agree! I like before I've even started half the time as you just KNOW its going to be fun, educational, and interesting simply cause Quinn make it.... I don't own a lathe, mill, or anything... I just like watching and learning interesting things even if I have no actual way to use that knowledge!!!!
Do patreon's get early access to videos? Maybe that's where some of the likes come from!
I will sometimes like before the end of a video, because I truly have been excited by the content. In this case I liked after I got to the end. When I decided that this could be useful to me.
RUclips caches counts. More frequently occurring events are more likely to be out of sync.
Drill your broached hole on the none cutting side and run some fine threads in it. Use a fine thread set screw for a micrometer style adjust on tool depth. It is quite convenient.
Very cool idea - 😊
I was wondering if that was an option!
Yea, I was thinking it would be something like a fly cuter.
The GHT approach
Quinns video is great introduction to this subject but I like the idea of tapping a fine thread down the hole to be broached, I've since tried it and it works great, thank you.
Recent new subscriber and have to say, I've just found a gem of a channel. Super smart lady with a demeanour and way of presentation second to none. Top marks!. It's fantastic. Keep up the great work! Ireland sends many blessings!..☘☘☘
Blondihacks showing some real old school badass machineing. You are one hell of a machinest. Thanks for sharing.
Once again, subscribers to this channel, You'll not see nothing like the Mighty Quinn!
Thank you so much for this video.
Blondihacks explanations are so clear. She should teach in technical school. I would add a set screw in the back of the HS knife. That would allow to set the knife depth precisely as I bore.
As many times as I have read about line boring, this video made it all come into focus. Thank you!
Excellent content. I'll be bing watching all of your other video's. Glad this channel came up for me. When your passionate about making things and machining the hard part is finding people who share your passion that you can talk too and are actually interested. The people in my life are not interested so I find myself bottling up my excitement mostly. It's the one reason I have considered making videos. It would be awesome to find people like you to share with and learn from. Thanking you for taking the time to do this. Have a great day and good luck with your projects.
Thanks Quinn, you did an outstanding job covering this on a small lathe. I've been deoing this work without the "lathe" professionally. (My largest job was about a 8" bore on a 20 yeard bucket for a mine. I could park my truck inside the bucket). There are "hundreds" of tricks one learns doing this type of work.
Hat's off to you! You're marvelously skilled and adept at the trade!
Was just thinking about Clickspring when you made the comment, ha! That clock was a fun build to watch through.
That's not a bad analogy about software. Mechanical engineering, machining, and software share similar test methodology. Perform unit testing on the individual components to ensure they work on their own, and only then do you do integration testing. Same way to diagnosing any problem - limit your variables and you'll find what's messing up much faster (or at all!)
I wish I had seen this video about 3 years ago.
I line bored a cylinder for an antique hit and miss gas engine.
The bore is approximately 4.500" and about 12" long.
It took way more time to set it up in the lathe but it worked.
This is the first video of yours I have watched so thank you Quinn 😊
I'm excited for this one, been wondering how this would work on a small lathe.
Awesome video as always. Thank you for putting it out.
ruclips.net/video/Oaew8dpjr6A/видео.html
That was an interesting insight into line boring on a lathe, thank you Quinn. My first ever observed line boring operation I saw was on a horizontal mill driven by overhead belts in a steam workshop way back in about 1968.
Clearly this is an opportunity for a double-carriage lathe, so you can have one on each side of the steady rest.
This is great, as usual, and you do a good job of presenting it.
FWIW I cleaned up my boring bar carefully end-to-end as I also use it as the alignment jig for measuring tailstock offset.
It's a testament to my ignorance that I really don't understand what's so special about line boring or why it's fundamentally different to using a boring bar. But, you achieved it with style, so thumbs up. If I ever get to the stage where I can actually hit my target diameter on the lathe, I might give it a try...
As always, great info and great presentation (and humor / humility).
Great video Quinn. I am building a gas engine and I needed to make a line bore tool for the cylinder and this video provided me with some reassurance that I could do this with the mini machines that I have to work with. 🙏.
I’m really enjoying your videos and feel like I’m learning a lot. I’m also impressed that you were able to get Rachel Maddow to do your narrating.
Great to see application of traditional approaches. I think this might be the only time I've seen someone use a drive plate and dog on RUclips. Turning between centres is such an elegant way to ensure precision and repeatability. Bravo!
I hit google up with my questions and you provide so many of the answers in an extremely well presented fashion - luvin' it!
Great work!
This isn't my trade, or hobby, however I can watch a lathe being worked for hours and marvel at what it can do. Thanks so much for your time in showing us your fascinating hobby Quinn!
Hello from the UK. A great video and very informative, just thought I'd mention that here in the UK these are known as "between centres boring bars" - I made a 1" one (yes I'm still using imperial measurements) which has a sliding 'micrometer' attachment, this is used to set the cutting bit as fine as 1 thou increments. - Quinn keep those wonderful videos coming !!
I only just discovered this channel. You have some really neat ideas - thanks heaps for sharing them.
I got to say. I have learned more from you in two weeks than the last four years from the others.
I line bore in a mobile capacity and am in no way a machinist (yet). I didn’t even know you could do this on a lathe. Love these videos!
All the explanations you can get in these videos. You don't need anything more. Beautiful.
Very timely! I have an upcoming project that needs line boring, so seeing how you got on with it has been very useful. Insightful comments too. I'm using a collet chuck to hold the headstock end. I was going to make the square hole right in the middle of the bar and grind the tool to put the cutting edge in the right place so I could cut in forward or reverse. Nice tip from John about threading the back side for micro-adjustment.
Love your work.
You do add the stuff that others think are common knowledge.
I also like I don’t have to listen to your life story before,during, and after.
Never going to be able to get a lathe, just to far out there $. But I still enjoy your videos & will keep watching. I’m learning a bunch so it never hurts to know the tips & tricks. Again good video. Thanks
Fascinating technique very well explained and demonstrated.
Some time ago I line bored the bearings of a medium sized lathe on my small Emco Compact 8 lathe. Making the boring bar and setting up the machine was a lot of effort and took some time but the result was awesome and very precise.
Well done. You've probably seen Keith Fenner's line boring videos. Some are done on the lathe and some on the K&T horizontal mill with a universal vertical head.
One thing that helps with tool bit adjustment is to partially thread the back side of the tool bit hole. That way you can use another setscrew to advance the tool bit in a less fiddly manner. I'm guessing, though, that you didn't have the space in your boring bar for that luxury.
Always fun to see a new way to use a machine. I often drill hole to the diagonal dimension of the tool bit and not make it square. This is mainly for tool holders /boring bars on the 9 inch South Bend. The cutting loads are low. On the line bar the square hole may make the tool setting more repeatable. I have filed a few square holes too. Also milled a slot on the end of the boring bar and welded a block over it to close it. You can get round tool bits too.
I normally set up the steady rest near the chuck, loosen the top arm and slide the rest to the other end and tighten the top arm again. This insures that the work is at the same height, end to end.
Really like your vibe, Quinn, and the confidence and cleanliness of your approach to each job! Keep up the good work.
Nice work on the set up. Myford vertical slides fit well on these machines for holding work on the carriage. I think you can get Chinese ones too. I used one before I got the mill but never thought of it for line boring so thanks for that little jolt. Looking forward to seeing the actual project.
For line boring I have found Cutting Edge Engineering Australia makes really nice videos. It's often possible to take measurement without removing the boring bar. See their video "Line boring and Bore welding Caterpillar 775 Truck rear strut rod " from 15:06 onwards. Might not work for this project though.
That only works if the hole for the cutter is on center. She put hers off center needlessly, because the hole should have been on center and the tool bit ground to get the cutting edge on center. Then she could have made a snap gage to measure the bore. She will deem this comment as annoying and pedantic lol.
Kurtis of course is working with much larger pieces making the measurements somewhat easier.
@@jerseyjoe2684 I think easiest would be drill another hole for measurement. Anyhow, nice to see these methods things are feasible even on small lathes.
@@DIYTAO Exactly what I was thinking. Drill two more centered holes in that boring bar, one before and one after the tool and make a snap guage like the one Curtis uses on Cutting Edge Engineering.
@@Cyruscosmo Of course making that special snap gauge would take time and effort, but so does repeatedly removing and re-centering entire boring bar for measurements. Also it sounds like interesting video project.
GREAT vid! Super-useful technique.
I’m just about to get a PM lathe, a tool I’ve literally been waiting all my life for. Your channel, tips, methods and projects are going to come in really handy! 😁
Really enjoyed this latest addition to your videos, shows the versatility of the lathe is limited only by the imagination. Thanks for sharing!
It makes me really happy to see women in this trade. And it seems like more and more women are coming to machining.
Thanks enjoyed your video and its given me some good ideas for my own projects . Just restored a large TOS lathe and it does have T slots on the cross slide . Deep boring has been one of the things i want to do so thanks again
I used this method to bore the crankpin holes and main shaft holes for a large steam engine crankshaft. For perfect alignment I tack welded the crank webs (8 x 2-1/2 x 1-1/4 cold rolled steel bars) together, and the bored holes had their centers the same height on the lathe cross slide. This allowed boring into the crank webs without needing to touch the cross slide setup for the entire operation. Setting the boring cut to give a final bored diameter a few thousandths undersized avoids difficult fiddling with the boring bar cutter. After final bore, the shaft pieces (1-1/4 drill rod) are turned down a couple of thousandths on the lathe to make a heavy press fit into the crank webs. Much easier to hit the right shaft outside diameter turning the OD rather than hitting a precise bore diameter. Finally drilled and tapped the crankshaft/web joints for a couple of "po-boy" keys, with a couple of set csrews in series, rammed tight one behind another.
You are incredibly sharp! I learn so many things from your videos. Thank you.
Always good for an entertaining metal video thanx Blondie 👍👍😂
My DIY Press has a 20ton cylinder the only bought part the rest is recycled metal and paint 😁 ... so respect for that one u use ...this I only use for press fits 🤪
Quin keep making those great videos. as long as I keep learning something new or something I forgot I will keep on watching. pretty soon I will attempt own project..
Amazing. Back in the 90s Bill Clinton pushed a button and turned off selective availability on the GPS system.. Overnight the GPS compass I *already owned* became much more useful and more accurate. Quinn does the same for my lathe with every video.
I just bought some brass rod. Wow I need to go into business making brass. It's priced like gold.
That, simply, was awesome. Thanks Quinn! I have a 14" lathe, but that lets me do 5-6 inch bores that are reasonably accurate, which is NOT something I could do with my little boring bar. And I like making tools :-)
20 ish years ago we needed a large air compressor for the live steam shop and by chance a previous employer was scrapping an old Kellogg American 340 series on a 120 gallon tank. The main issue was the high pressure side wrist pin had gotten loose and had gouged into the cylinder wall till the compressor locked up and broke the rod. Two main issues was the cylinder bore on the high pressure side was just under 3" diameter by almost 10" long and no automotive machine shop around had a boring machine that would do a sub 3" bore in excess of 9" long. So I built a similar setup but made a bearing bronze bushing that fit the taper of the headstock on my 16" american pacemaker and bored it out to 1.750", then built a 1.750 by about 36" long bar with a .375 tool thru it clamped and advanced with fine thread set screws. The carriage end of the bar was machined down to fit the slot on a tool holder and was aligned to travel into the headstock perfectly. Once ready I bolted the cylinder jug onto the face plate and at the slowest speed went about boring. The other main issue was a lack of parts available for an 40 or so year old Kellogg American air compressor and I doubt they ever offered oversized pistons. The size of the bore ended up being what I could get in a set of rings the next size over what I needed to clean the bore up and I had to make a piston to fit the bore and a rod to replace the broken one. Unfortunately all my pictures were on 3.5" floppies (old sony 91 camera at the time) and the floppies have all went bad.
Very timely video for me. I got a 5/16" square broach on Friday and will be making a bar on Monday. I'll be using it in my radial drill however with an outboard bearing for support. Ken
You can grind a tool bit from old center drill or other round HSS material, then a drill hole in boring bar to hold it. Cheap and effective for occasional line boring. Grind a flat for set screw lock to keep it from rotating in boring bar. Works !
Of course, this removes the need for square hole and broach.
Wow! This is extra neat! ... I mean... Yay! It's Blondihacks time!
Thanks for a new lesson. Glad to see you holding the bandsaw stop next to the metal you are cutting.
Very well done! I remember my first time line boring! LUL It was a absolute mess! I must have broke 10 bits between many different issues! You did well Thanks for the Video!!!!
Great demo, thanks for sharing it. There is one thing folks need to remember before they do lineboting like this, that is to ensure their tailstock is centered to the bed. If the tailstock was used to create a taper on a previous project and not centered your line boring won’t go well if it must also be centered on the part itself.
Quinn, pushing small lathes where no small lathe has gone before. So that’s cool, and a lovely Saturday afternoon video.
But that spoiler… if it turns out that you are the owner of a Goddess (which would be one of a small number of reasonable grounds for restricting your workshop space in the garage, in my mind) and maybe even work on it in your videos, then I may melt and you have wipe me into the gutter with some shop rags. _eeeek!_ dang, I really can’t wait until next Saturday!!
Congratulations! Fantastic job. Look forward to you building the engine!
Must be lathe line boring month. Two channels both doing a line boring on the lathe video. Very neat way to extend the reach of a small lathe.
I really appreciate your videos. Thank you for making them, you're very informative and your explanations are understandable and accessible. Thanks a lot.
In my early machining days I got the job of square broaching a 1” square hole in a custom socket wrench. I drilled the pilot hole, then it was off to the hydraulic press. I squared up the sides of the broach with the work and started broaching. The broach was at least a couple of feet long, so as it went down I began to see my mistake too late. I was broaching a finished square hole that was 45 degrees to the work, because that is how square broaches work. Duh. So, Blondihacks, let that be a lesson for you haha.
Ah, you’ve referenced Chris Budiselic there, as is tradition... 😎
What a great video for Canada and therefore, of course, the world... 🇨🇦
Thanks for sharing! Got something like that coming up in one of my projects. I was thinking of two holes, one to use a tool to set the cutting depths. Very useful!!!
Very nice demonstration Q. Now I’m intrigued to see your intentions for it.
really fun video. doesn't apply here but i happen to know that MSC also sells line boring bar inserts. round OD square id. and there is a cap screw in the back for precision adjustments. i believe i saw this on Keith Fenner's channel on a 2" or 2.5" line boring bar.
I was just going to say that a useful mod to Quinn's boring bar would be a set screw on the back of the cutting tool slot to make fine adjustments to depth of cut.
You can buy bushings with a square hole broached into them from MSC. I learned this from a Keith Fenner video. Thanks for the interesting videos.
Great to see it all coming together !
Awesome Clickspring reference! Cheers mate!
I had no clue you could do this on a lathe!
I makes sense i just never tough of it. Nice video!
Great job Quinn. You have the gift 😇🙏
Great video from the Mighty Quinn - can't wait for the "how to adjust the height" episode. Keep them coming
Great videos, thanks for sharing.
I’m brushing up on my trade knowledge for a new job, and these vids have been really helpful.
You never disappoint! 🌠
When I worked at the lab, we had a 2" diameter line boring bar that had a set screw behind the cutting tool to advance it more accurately. I think it was tapped before the bar was broached.
Very interesting, why am I always impressed ?
Awesome! Love it, and really interested to try it out on my teeny little Sherline!
Where did you go to school ? Machinist school? Or are you self taught? Your the best Machinist I have ever seen. Im self taught. And i wish I had a 3rd of your knowledge and skill.
Wow, this was really cool to learn about. I wish I learned more about line boring in school
Fantastic setup, looking forward to your next project requiring line boring cheers.
Impressive piece of turning
Happy New Year to you and your family.
Ooh... Quinn slips in the hint towards the end... Blondihacks is making an engine block!
Very nicely done 👍👍👍
Thanks for sharing! Watch again!
This operation is really cool.
Regarding adjusting the cutter to dimension, if you have the room a great way to do this is to add another setscrew on the rear end of the cutting tool. You can then slowly turn the screw, while watching your indicator. You can make very fine, progressive adjustments in this way.
Nice, thanks. I watched another video a while ago by The Shed Dweller where he put together a line boring setup to correct a factory misalignment in his tailstock quill. It was quite a tense setup since a serious mistake would have ruined his tailstock.
Hi Quin, the old school, on a job like this, would have recessed the centres so that they are less prone to being damaged! The recess would be a mm deep and a bit larger than the OD of the centre hole! I always do this on a job that needs to retain accuracy.
Thanks for the vid.
Good work. One can thread the back side of the square to hole so u can use another set screw to advance the screw accurately and easily.
Another great video. Boring bars are round out of necessity as in big jobs the work is stationary and the bar moves. In your case and supporting MrCrispin why not use a square or hex bar. You mentioned you used an old piece of tool steel and acquired a square broach. I think a less expensive option is to purchase round HSS and grind a flat on it for orientation. That way just drill a round hole (or many holes). On jobs with multiple bores you will run out of travel. This is addressed with multiple holes in the bar. Drilling beats broaching. Cheers
That was very interesting to watch!
Another Citroen reference. I approve. Do you actually own one? You seem like you are just eccentric enough and just nerdy enough to own one. (that is a compliment btw ...). Sadly my dad's collection of them are rotting away and no longer viable but back in the day they were much fun to drive.
And the beauty of line, or direct boring, is that the bored hole has no taper. 👏👏👍😁
That is just awsome! I was kinda wondering how I was going to put a 2 inch hole in a 6 inch long piece of aluminum. Thank you!
My girls love you because ( well you're you). My boys seem to understand what the HELL your doing. I love the whole thing.