From a former Calibration Technician and later a Metrologist. Don't be afraid to wiggle that telescoping bore gauge, a lot. I found that sneaking up to the measurement using a micrometer is worse than brute forcing it by making large movements inside of the micrometer. The large movements give a more accurate measurement, because you're hitting all of the high spots on the ball of the gauge and UUT.
10:15 ... That's PERFECTION!!! ... No emery cloth either!!! .. As you said maybe a bit more accuracy than needed for this application :) ... But that is the way to do it!!
7:39 ... I have a super crappy old 1" mic I use all the time. It was not very good when it was brand new, and I paid $12 for it :) 40 years ago! The ONLY adjustment is a 3/32 set screw that loosens EVERYTHING at once .. you have to hold tensioning faintly heavy spring WHILE adjusting it too. I can get 2 tenths accuracy out of it all day long, but it requires a really a gentle touch, and using it exactly the same way every time. I like it because I've had it for so long, I have a Mitutoyo in good shape that's only 30 years old! :) .. I save it for 'special jobs' where it's needed I should note, most of my work is not in machining now. .
8:00 .. You know the ID Measuring tool I LOVE the most is ... the small diametre Three-Point Inside Micrometers I see Keith Rucker using on "Vintage machining" .. they are Awesome!! With a set of those, Pin Gauges up to 1", and a decent Inside Mic with extensions, you can measure everything ID with supreme accuracy! :) Of course this accuracy is not needed all the time ... but it would be my dream, ID measuring set of tools :)
Nice job! Your number chasing on dimensions not relevant to boring accuracy is crazy stressful. The id and od and cone degrees matching are all the important parameters.
For bores under 1.5”, I strongly prefer pin gauges. They let you feel if there is any taper in the bore directly. People sometimes don’t realize that you can easily use two pins to gauge a bore. Sets in 0.001” increments up to 0.500” are fairly cheap and let you easily gauge bores up to 0.999”. Add a 1.000” pin and you can gauge up to 1.500”. Minus gauges are almost always what you want (pins ground about a tenth under what they are marked). It’s easy to get piston fits with pin gauges!
Yes agreed. But holy cow a pin gauge set complete up to 1.5” is pricey. I been wanting a shars set up to 1” but that’s like $1,000. I’ll get one one day but until then I’ll stick with other methods.
A .250 to .500 pin gauge set is about $155 on Amazon currently. A single 1” pin only costs about $20. My point is that you can stuff two pins in a hole to measure a diameter as easily as a single pin.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair .251-.5 sets are about 100 bucks. 1 inch dowel pin are dirt cheap. You can get in sizes above and they run + .0002 so it makes up for the minus pins
Cool mist. I have been to cheap to buy a 5 gallon of coolant which is what I should use, so I have been running mostly water with a bit of cool mist mixed in
8:39 .. the thing we do not think about all the time with snap gauges ...... ?? ... Is you are getting "double duty" out of your various regular Outside Mics!! .. that's making THEM pay their way too!! .. I really like little advantages, such as this !! :)
For roughing the cone could you have cut in both directions instead of cut return cut return? Seems like the insert geometry and set up would have allowed it. Save 50% time?
The instrument you’re using to check the I.D is not a snap gage, it’s called a telescoping gage. A snap gage is shaped like a “C” and is used to check primarily the O.D of parts. At the top of the opening is a plunger that moves the indicator needle. At the bottom of the opening is a stationary anvil that serves as a rest. Snap gages are used in production settings where you are measuring allot of parts. Also when checking close tolerance I.D’s it’s always better to have at least three points of contact. That way your I.D gage will register any out of round areas within the bore. A two point contact, which is what your using is not the best practice. Telescoping gages can deliver false readings from person to person because one person might tighten the plunger screw tighter or looser, resulting in more resistance on the barrel. That’s why three point bore gages are the best…tension is always the same.
Yes a lot of us call them snap gauges incorrectly. That’s how I was taught. O well most of us know what we mean. In regards to three point gauges. They are 100% the best but also 1000% more expensive. One day I’ll get them but until the telescoping gauges work great on my projects. None of my jobs are ever more precise than +0-1.
It does but I leave my digital mics locked. It keeps me from bumping them or resetting them on accident. It’s a trade off (not being able to toggle between metric and inch) but I know without a doubt they are calibrated and haven’t changed. I have scrapped a part before by accidentally zeroing it and not catching it before it’s so late.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair I started in 1977 on a Manual Bridgeport with no dro just a .200" lead screw. and used my imperial mic's on a metric mill I used my metric mic's We had imp/metric slip blocks
Hello Kyle God must really love you ! You have a really good head for teaching as well
well done.
Thank you I appreciate it
Hello. I like the cordless drill hack for the cross feed. Nice!
Yeah it’s a nice trick
it all gets better with time
Yes indeed
Mistakes and failures bring success. Thank you Kyle.
Yes indeed
Nice job yet again. We shared this video on our homemade tool forum last week 😎
Awesome! Thank you!
Aiming for the stars is always good. Perfection is a good target.
Indeed
From a former Calibration Technician and later a Metrologist.
Don't be afraid to wiggle that telescoping bore gauge, a lot.
I found that sneaking up to the measurement using a micrometer is worse than brute forcing it by making large movements inside of the micrometer.
The large movements give a more accurate measurement, because you're hitting all of the high spots on the ball of the gauge and UUT.
Good advice
Enjoyed the video, cones looked great!
Thanks for watching!
Put the whole bar in the lathe and use a steady rest and maccine the part that is hanging out beyond the rest. No welding, no waste. no sweat.
Yeah in theory but I try to avoid using my steady when I got to do bulk machining here and there yeah but just matter of preference really
that thumbnail looks like it came straight from CEE
Yeah may have taken some inspiration from them…
10:15 ... That's PERFECTION!!! ... No emery cloth either!!! .. As you said maybe a bit more accuracy than needed for this application :) ... But that is the way to do it!!
Very true Mike
always great content Kyle........cheers from Florida ....Paul
Much appreciated Paul.
"Log of steel" lol. Great vid as always!
Yeah I got weird terminology
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair love it
Way cool, Very precise, Good job Bro.
Much appreciated!
You cut off the cone. Ok.
I didn't see any finishing treatment of the plane of the cut.
Did you left it as is ?
Yeah the part was really good actually from the paring operation.
Excellent Work Kyle.....
Thanks again!
Really nice photography!
Thanks a lot!
7:39 ... I have a super crappy old 1" mic I use all the time. It was not very good when it was brand new, and I paid $12 for it :) 40 years ago! The ONLY adjustment is a 3/32 set screw that loosens EVERYTHING at once .. you have to hold tensioning faintly heavy spring WHILE adjusting it too.
I can get 2 tenths accuracy out of it all day long, but it requires a really a gentle touch, and using it exactly the same way every time.
I like it because I've had it for so long, I have a Mitutoyo in good shape that's only 30 years old! :) .. I save it for 'special jobs' where it's needed
I should note, most of my work is not in machining now.
.
Yeah that’s awesome
Good stuff, Happy Saturday
Thanks! You too!
Always great videos 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🇬🇧
Glad you like them!
LOOKING GOOD.
Thank you
good work
👏👏❤❤
Thanks ✌️
if you hold the gage like its a part an sweep the mick over it you will get a better reading
Thank you
8:00 .. You know the ID Measuring tool I LOVE the most is ... the small diametre Three-Point Inside Micrometers I see Keith Rucker using on "Vintage machining" .. they are Awesome!!
With a set of those, Pin Gauges up to 1", and a decent Inside Mic with extensions, you can measure everything ID with supreme accuracy! :)
Of course this accuracy is not needed all the time ... but it would be my dream, ID measuring set of tools :)
Yeah I like those three point mikes
Nice job! Your number chasing on dimensions not relevant to boring accuracy is crazy stressful. The id and od and cone degrees matching are all the important parameters.
Yes indeed
For bores under 1.5”, I strongly prefer pin gauges. They let you feel if there is any taper in the bore directly. People sometimes don’t realize that you can easily use two pins to gauge a bore. Sets in 0.001” increments up to 0.500” are fairly cheap and let you easily gauge bores up to 0.999”. Add a 1.000” pin and you can gauge up to 1.500”. Minus gauges are almost always what you want (pins ground about a tenth under what they are marked). It’s easy to get piston fits with pin gauges!
Yes agreed. But holy cow a pin gauge set complete up to 1.5” is pricey. I been wanting a shars set up to 1” but that’s like $1,000. I’ll get one one day but until then I’ll stick with other methods.
A .250 to .500 pin gauge set is about $155 on Amazon currently. A single 1” pin only costs about $20. My point is that you can stuff two pins in a hole to measure a diameter as easily as a single pin.
@@ikkentonda o makes sense. I was thinking a 1.5 pin might get kinda pricey in a big set lol
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair .251-.5 sets are about 100 bucks. 1 inch dowel pin are dirt cheap. You can get in sizes above and they run + .0002 so it makes up for the minus pins
@@derekk8523 yeah good point I was looking at complete sets from .010 to 1” in 1 thou increments
i was taught to measure the hole 3 times, when all 3 become the same you know how to use them
That’s a good point
Question, what do you use for cutting fluid for the H-band saw?
Cool mist. I have been to cheap to buy a 5 gallon of coolant which is what I should use, so I have been running mostly water with a bit of cool mist mixed in
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair your as bad as l am at times, thanks and good day.
@@ronsreadyornotshop yeah probably lol
Good work! I find if you are working in metric, a Bosch driver drill is much more accurate than Milk drills...............😉
Yeah I had Bosch got rid of them. But they do make good stuff
8:39 .. the thing we do not think about all the time with snap gauges ...... ?? ...
Is you are getting "double duty" out of your various regular Outside Mics!! .. that's making THEM pay their way too!! .. I really like little advantages, such as this !! :)
Yes indeed
What is two and nine ten thousands in numbers? I am from metric world...
2 thousands 9 tenths
0.0029"
For roughing the cone could you have cut in both directions instead of cut return cut return? Seems like the insert geometry and set up would have allowed it. Save 50% time?
Yeah true
Good video, only thing i would have done is leaving like 15-20 mm in the back for the cone for some grub screews.
Great idea
You are right if an insert act like a flintstone , it is gone.
Yep
Mistakes are the portals of discovery
Agreed
🙌
👍
The instrument you’re using to check the I.D is not a snap gage, it’s called a telescoping gage.
A snap gage is shaped like a “C” and is used to check primarily the O.D of parts. At the top of the opening is a plunger that moves the indicator needle. At the bottom of the opening is a stationary anvil that serves as a rest. Snap gages are used in production settings where you are measuring allot of parts.
Also when checking close tolerance I.D’s it’s always better to have at least three points of contact. That way your I.D gage will register any out of round areas within the bore.
A two point contact, which is what your using is not the best practice.
Telescoping gages can deliver false readings from person to person because one person might tighten the plunger screw tighter or looser, resulting in more resistance on the barrel.
That’s why three point bore gages are the best…tension is always the same.
Yes a lot of us call them snap gauges incorrectly. That’s how I was taught. O well most of us know what we mean. In regards to three point gauges. They are 100% the best but also 1000% more expensive. One day I’ll get them but until the telescoping gauges work great on my projects. None of my jobs are ever more precise than +0-1.
Telescoping gages are what you get if you ask for them.
And bananas and inches are different things.
you mic has metric on it lol
It does but I leave my digital mics locked. It keeps me from bumping them or resetting them on accident. It’s a trade off (not being able to toggle between metric and inch) but I know without a doubt they are calibrated and haven’t changed. I have scrapped a part before by accidentally zeroing it and not catching it before it’s so late.
@@VanoverMachineAndRepair I started in 1977 on a Manual Bridgeport with no dro just a .200" lead screw. and used my imperial mic's on a metric mill I used my metric mic's We had imp/metric slip blocks
@@theessexhunter1305 wow that’s crazy
i'm worried about the radius on the snap gauge being a little large for the bore
The radius on the gauges change with the different sizes
@@VanoverMachineAndRepairRight on.
Good morning
Good morning back, Sir!
Morning
Why not chuck the entire billet and consume it as you go? That would avoid welding the stubs and all associated trouble...
To save material and chucking the entire billet would require steady rest
Don't measure bananas when you want mm
👍