Let's Make A Slitting Saw Arbor!
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- Опубликовано: 6 фев 2025
- This episode on Blondihacks, I'm making a new saw arbor for my small slitting saws! Exclusive videos, drawings, models & plans available on Patreon!
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Hey everyone- the most common question on this build is why aren’t there wrench flats on the arbor as well? You could do that, but it wasn’t needed for me because the arbor is in the mill when I install the saw. If I want to install it outside, I can hold it in the bench vise.
Another common question is why is the registration diameter on the cap instead of the arbor? Because that was the way that occurred to me to do it such that it would accommodate different saw thicknesses. It’s still less than 1 thou TIR this way and more than good enough for hobby slitting saws. I’ll never claim this is the best way to do anything, but don’t get overly obsessed with details that may not matter for your application, either. Things don’t have to be perfect to work and we’re just hobbyists here.
RED, ORANGE, BLUE, VIOLET, GREEN, BROWN, PINK, MAGENTA, TURQUOISE, YELLOW, GREY, WHITE
This is one colorful comment you might not want to delete.
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I bought a really expensive super fancy pants .0004 TIR straight shank saw arbor from TMX, and it had the same design in this regard. The thread was actually a separate cap screw, but the registration diameter is on the cap, not the arbor.
Also, fun fact, I made the arbor from this video first, bought a fancy TMX slitting saw, and then the saw didn't fit. I thought it was my fault so I bought the TMX arbor and it turns out that the slitting saw hole was out of round 🙃 I had to go at it with a Dremel before it would fit on the TMX arbor. Yaaay.
Registration on the arbor vs the cap is a tradeoff between theoretical best concentricity and z height; easy enough to put a recess on the cap if you're willing to use a screw in it instead of threading it, but then the cap needs to be tall enough for the registration diameter to nest into it when using a thin saw. With it on the cap it can nest into the arbor where you already need material. I did it on the arbor when I made one, but I was more annoyed by runout than by clearance at the time.
My grandpa made himself a caliper with brazed carbide point so he could scribe with it. I have no idea how, but he made it crazy precise. It's a family heirloom now.
“Because I’m a monster”. I lol’d.
that arbor genuinely looks like it literally wasn't moving. VERY impressive.
Scribe marks with your calipers! Yikes!!! You are such a rebellious sort... love it! Nice arbor tutorial. Thanks.
Don’t ever stop being a monster. 👊
I love your funny comments. Breaks my concentration but makes watching more enjoyable. Well done keep it up.
Yay! It's Blondihacks time!
Quinn, you're not a monster. You're just a Canadian living in America, which means that you get to mix metric and imperial all day long. Please never change.
I've not used a slitting saw yet, but have observed that most videos of them show significant runout which offends my OCD tendencies. Loved the project and seeing that saw run in near concentricity. It made my day. I can live with the imperial collet size and metric wrench for tightening, working on most things now days seems to require both systems anyway.
On the end cap might be a cool idea to make a roto broach and broach a hex internally. Building the roto broach would be a good project as well as making your set of arbors out of tool steel and heat treating them and finishing them either with a tool post grinder. Of course then you would need to make either a nice wood case to house them in your tool box.
So enough with my content ideas.
Nice job Quinn.
Your design lends itself to being made double ended. Why not make the other end fit smaller sized slitting saws. 😉
Brilliant idea!
I agree!
I intend to make one with a Morse taper on the end such that it fits directly in my milling setup of an Emco.
That's not a bad idea until you think about clearance.
@@mattiaconti3682 I don't understand? It would be the same diameter along the whole length.
Thanks Blondihacks, I enjoy the channel, have learned a few things and I appreciate, your honesty in showing mistakes. Cheers
Excellent job.
Peter, how are you.
That's a win, I think it's the most concentric slitting saw set up I've seen, really nice work. All the best for 2021.
You are a Wonderful person and you are on earth for a special reason.
Love your videos and your personality.
And for us Monsters in training, your shot of the vise clearance at the end shows a way to hold round stock in a vise at an angle using a simple jig. This is by far the clearest example of a how to on slitting saw arbors I have watched so far. 2021, off to a good start.
I've had a set of those Dewalt Extreme drill bits for quite a while now, they are great cutting tools. I can tell you that from my experience you can go straight from the centre drill to the finish size (note: the biggest I have is 13mm) without a pilot and without any complaints from the drill bit. Of course, the correct size pilot (must not be larger than the spigot) does reduce the load quite a lot. Stepping up through he sizes is just a no-no with these drills as without anything to hold/guide the central spigot, the drill wanders horribly. Just try the biggest one on some scrap steel and see.
Lovely! I particularly like the 14mm wrench (spanner) flats on the 5/8" arbor, it's just the sort of mixing that I would do, and be proud of!
Yeah, people who complain about the continued use of imperial measurement are just those that can't handle *both*... :-)
@@Roy_Tellason speaking as one of those people...... aaaah.... you got me there.
Well done, by the way, I have calipers that I would never use to mark material with and I have calipers that I would mark my material with all day long and never look back. Let the haters hate, it make their lives meaningful.
For extra monster cred, use Whitworth wrench flats, and a metric screw thread, with your imperial shank size.
I think you just described my import 1985 Enco knee mill. Took some comments from the wizards of Practical Machinist for me to believe the combination of threads the machine actually has.
@@chrismorris8695 I own a lathe which uses metric and imperial screws and nearly every screw and bolt has a different head.
Some are slit some cross and some allen head.
@@Sven_Hein Are you willing to sell one of your two lathes?
@@ChristophPech I had connection issues and it posted twice.
Sadly there's no lathe for sale.
Sound like doing same mechanicsl work on a 1970-1972 years SAAB 99. Think it got all three in there. An English Triumph motor in a Swedish car.. 😁😇
Learned new color today, teal. Probably one and only machinist in the world that use teal color. Thanks.
Those slitting saws are great for all kinds of jobs. I have a little model builder's table saw that uses slitting saws, and I have a lot of those, so it was obvious that I needed an arbor for the mill too. I placed the mounting flange for the saw blade on the arbor so I could turn both faces in one go. I think this reduces run-out introduced by the screw type you made. No idea if this is really necessary but it works great. I also made an (extra) cap that consists of a counter sunk bolt with a fairly thin ring for clamping which allows me to get real close to my vise.
Watching with my blondiehacks mug, coffee tastes much better.
The way we used to make similar was to have a counterbored cap and use a suitable Allen screw to hold it and the saw in place. That way you gain more clearance under the saw.
Oh hey writing the blade thickness on the cutoff saw in sharpie is a really good idea. I learn a ton by watching how you work, in addition to the main theme of the project.
You are so critical of yourself. Don't worry about what others think. You do you, and forget everyone else.
I was in training some 40 years ago. The person that trained me on the many machines that would work on wood all ways tell me in our set ups that for the quality of life you should do this. I always thought if I didn't do it his ways he would put a hurting on me. I would laugh. But now I see what it means in the way you used that fraise . I am impressed with you ability to teach. Thank you.
Because I am old, I tend to mess up order of operations and forget operations in a setup as well. I have taken to making a check list of everything I need to do to complete a part. While the documenting part is tedious and boring (no, not that kind of boring), it makes the machining part fun and carefree, not to mention my success rate has gone up.
Continue to be a monster it is the feeling for the steel and creativity that counts. Something you have in abundance. An old timer from Sweden
👍 I made my own because I wanted to be able to get closer to the center (depth of cut) and more height clearance to the arbor lower end. Plus I had the materials on hand and I'm a cheap bastard.... I bought about $2k, 40+ pcs, of NOS premium quality US and UK made HSS slitting saws for $85 on e-bay and made two arbors for them from 4140 - 1/2" and 1" centers.
Nice one Quinn. My arbors have always been based on a 16mm bolt with an section of straight shank before the threads. Threads cut off, and the bolt hex head turned to a few mm thickness. A hole drilled through the shank, and a cylindrical cavity bored in the remains of the head, to the same diameter of the saw hole. A threaded cap goes through the saw blade an into the cavity. A draw bolt (6mm) goes from the shank to the cap.
This allows VERY low profile of the blade holding. The hex of the bolt and that of the drawbolt are both still useable to tighten or loosen the saw blade. Loss of rigidity from the hole through the arbor is not an issue with slitting saws. Keep safe in 2021. Give Sprocket a treat.
My American made Starrett calipers that test perfect against gage blocks again and again don't get used for marking, but my cheapos are constantly used for marking. The cheapos are good to within a thou and that is all I ask if I am using layout anyway. Tolerances are a beautiful thing. Your arbor has far better Tolerances than blades are made to, so you are golden.
Great job of machining and lots of clearance. I had the same crappy slitting saw arbor and made my own but not for the exact same reason as you. The saw would tighten the screw so tight I could not remove it. The first time I heated the arbor and used a pipe wrench and such to remove the screw. The next time that was not enough to move it and the cap stayed on. So I used an external thread with a nut, not as much clearance but I can get hold of it to remove it. I also put in a key for the saws that have a keyway. I hope you will keep us up to date on how your arbor performs and whether or not it tightens the fastener too much as I just might want to copy it. Thanks for the video.
I did the same thing and never could get the thing apart. Maybe Never Seize next time?
Quinn- I love your videos and find them very instructive. One of the things I personally appreciate is that you make “mistakes” just like those of us with who aren’t pros and you make it clear that they aren’t (usually) catastrophic.
PS - I also love the quick puns you routinely throw in.
So in the wonderful words of Laurel and Hardy. "Pass that one by me again!"
So that's a 14 mm AF on a 5/8 stock!!!
Love it and I am off to make a couple for my mill.
Same as yours. David and Lily England.
Great video. Tip: chamfer your hole before it's tapped, because sometimes your chamfering tool/bit can "smear" the entry thread. A chamfer on the hole can also help ease in the tap at the very beginning, too, especially if it's not being guided.
Layout with digital calipers. Its why I buy Harbor Freight calipers. They are perfect for layout and if I am in a hurry I use my Mits
Perfect. I have a need for a 1/4” arbor and will follow your design. Thank you. 👏👏👍😀 Andrew
Thanks Quinn Happy new year
Bought a horizontal band saw for completing some parting operations that would have been done on the lathe. Life is so much better now.
Thank you for posting this on my birthday. Nice present.
Happy birthday! 🎂 🥳
You did a top notch job there my friend. This is coming from a former tool and die machinist and designer. I am getting back into machining at home as a hobby and am gradually building up my tooling. I was using some cheapo Harbor Freight slitting saw the other day with a makeshift arbor I cobbled together. I was in a hurry so I just bit the bullet and went this el cheapo route. well, needless to say, I got through half the cut and the cutter quit on me. I have to take the time and do as you did here. Again, you did a really nice job with your arbor design.
Sometimes, I use a section of a bolt instead of cutting threads. I Loctite it into one part so it stays put. You end up with rolled threads made of heat treated steel, so it is stronger than if I made it out of one piece of steel. Your thoughts?
Another low profile tightening method: drill 2 holes on the face of the cap and use a pin spanner wrench to tighten.
Hi Quinn, nice job and interesting video -as always - and nice to see the saws being used! I made arbors for my saws in a similar way, with dedicated arbors for every (inner)diameter in order to minimise their height.
A note on the saws, they have legacy and a history worth to mention in these COVID times, they were used for manufacturing prototypes for intensive care ventilators in the 70-ties (:
Cool! Thanks again- they have been super helpful. I’ve used them in many projects already
Fresh out of High School I worked in 2nd operations in a factory cutting slots in the piece that holds the blades in X-acto Knives. That reminded me.
Very nice Quinn, your old arbor always made me anxious, I hate that runout lol. New one looks awesome!
Hey I finally found another person who uses their calipers to scribe with though I mainly use them on plastic but I have used them to scribe some mild steel sheet metal
You are awesome. You make my Saturday a little nicer.
So today was all about quality of life. Happy New Year Quinn.
As to your wrench flats, there is a chart in the machinery handbook on acceptable standard tolerances for both fasteners and wrenches to ensure that all wrenches will fit all fasteners with acceptable grip.
Happy new year to you and your family.
I once left delete-able comments, then I realized you actually read your comments. I stopped after that. Awesome video. I really didn't see any runout on your arbor or saw.
Really nice project, Quinn. Simple, but elegant design work.
Love your video. Not a machinist so I have no idea what the problem is with marking with your caliper, but I'd venture to say you are not a bad person at all.
Dear Quinn, your videos have become a highlight of my Saturdays. Happy New Year for you and please keep them coming.
hi, i've only just found you on youtube by accident and i love your videos by the way, they have taught me quite a bit i needed to know like tool sharpening etc, now for the nevative comment, or problem should i say, ( not aimed at you by the way ), being a few decades older than you and a relitave beginner at the lathe jobby and now that the person that got my interest in turning has passed away far too soon, (retired rolls royce engineer ) i'm left with watching videos to find my way through this minefield, i bought a chinese sieg c3 lathe a couple of years before the chaos set in which i only use now and again or when the mood takes me or i think i need a spacer or something simple for my motorcycle or whatever, only to find that for most things i come accross seem to need a milling machine to complete the project or at least to make things easier, this meens that i have to spend the thick end of a £1000 (which i can't either afford or justify ) to get a half decent machine, then there's the cost of tools to go with it and of course time to learn how to use it by watching video's, and i've not much of that left at my age, are they any other ways i can make some of these things whithout going to the expence of getting a miller, regards, steve.
Happy New Year! Looks like a great solution. The more I watch your channel the more I want to be able to machine things to improve them but have too many other "hobbies". Maybe when I retire.
I have no training at all in your field but I sure like your video. Thanks for entertaining me.
I don’t do metal machining, but I love watching your projects, thank you for the detail, humour and learning opportunities you provide. Happy New Year.
By using your calipers to mark a line in the blue you create a silver line. By using multiple colors of markers and more silver lines you could have a very colorful piece indeed. The you would have to delete as needed to actually find the line you needed in the first place.
I GET why people are mad about marking with the calipers. I really do. However, I still do it. I end up breaking my calipers by dropping them, or smashed in some other way before I wear them enough to matter anyway. This is why I keep a couple pairs of Starrett or B&S calipers around, so I can just keep working when I forget the calipers on the carriage and bump them onto the floor!
I left a pair on the gear change box of our tiny lathe. The carriage being power fed trapped it against the housing and folded them in half. Barely even loaded the motor.
Gotta make one of these I ran into that clearance problem just the other day. Crappy arbor B-Gone!
Nice video! Sometimes the best tools are the ones we make ourselves! Thanks for sharing!
I very much enjoyed this little project. Thank you!
Faustian bargain.....lol...I still recall your xmas recital and chuckle every time. My wife quit asking me what's up...
Nice job! i definitely see one of these in my future!
Thank You for making learning so enjoyable.
As soon as I get my mill and lathe setup I think I will give this a go, just need to extract the machines from the packing boxes.
I bought something similar to this for my angle grinder, no idea why. It just looked cool.
It is literally terrifying.
Brilliant. Happy new year.
Happy New Year! Quinn.
and let's hope we can add some "huge quality of life improvement" ourselves in twentytwentyone.
This is actually really nice, and so much simpler than other low profile slitting saw arbor's I've seen. I'll even forgive using the calipers to make a line, because I've totally never EVER used a tool for other than its intended purpose..NEVER...*cough*
That said, I believe I'll add a wrench flat on the arbor as well. Not because it actually needs it, but because I'm paranoid and I just like the idea of being able to put a wrench on both sides.
Quinn, Please don't loop the sandpaper like that when you are polishing. It can grab and suck your your hand in faster that you can let go of it. Check Adam Savage's hand injury on tested from a few months ago for reference.
The timing of this was perfect. I was just cursing my lousy slitting saw arbor as I was trying to cut slots in some screw heads. Now all is well. Great channel!
Happy New Year Quinn! Really enjoy your work and attitude! I spent 31 years in the cutting tool business and miss it. Now I can get my fix watching you! Thank you!
Nice job and method Quinn. Happy New Year from Wales . Cheers Ade.
Happy New Year. Cheers
The quality of life of a monster. Hmmm, I like that. Thanks for another excellent video. That arbor is going to be very useful.
Happy New Year my friend. That arbor is a vast improvement compared with the original. Thank you for your videos.
A nice and simple design, I like it! I guess that reversing the process of making the cap and body would make getting the runout low more difficult. You'd need to remove the cap to start making the matching hole in the body.
They're your calipers, so use them however you want! :)
I will join you as a monster; I use my calipers in whatever they fit to be used for, one can always get new calipers, but not always a new scribeline
Thank you, will try it. Happy new year, keep upp that good work and you filming. 👍❄
I really appreciate your explanations of the process. I learn a lot from your videos like this in particular, where the order of operations and work holding really play into the final result.
Can't wait to see you take it for a spin! :P
Also, Clickspring seems to use (or grind) a point into his parting tools (so the tip looks like a wedge instead of a square), so they meet the work at a point rather than a flat surface. I haven't asked him why he does that, but it might be worth a thought. It's like having back clearance on a parting tool.
Please correct me if I am mistaken but I believe Clickspring only uses that style of parting tool on soft brass. He also does some stuff by hand, like a wood turner, mostly contours.
That's pretty spiffy!
Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
Always useful are slitting saws.
Excellent work.
Part looks great. I love this channel.
I also love how the caliper scribing is essentially troll bait at this point. I personally have a cheap(er) set of calipers I use to scribe all the time, and I have a nice set for actual measuring and whatnot. Keep the trolling coming and thanks again for the great content! I'm learning a whole lot watching your channel.
Everything I do is troll bait at this point. 😀
It's not troll bait. It's trolling. And a very public bad example that's permanently recorded and publicly shown to all future viewers.
At least she's not incessantly saying "Let me know in the comments" which seems to have taken over from "Like, share and subscribe".
@@XTL_prime Yeah, you're right. I'm not sure why I said troll bait. It's straight up trolling indeed.
Awesome work as always ❤.
Nice job laydy😁😙
your the second best thing on this channel Quinn, we need more Sprocket, Meow!
Neat. I haven been looking for a slitting saw set, I'll just make my own now.
ahh this video was...a cut above...and we all saw what you did there....but we arbor no ill will :D
awesome way to start a sat afternoon thanks Quinn
Gonna make one tomorrow!
Happy New Year to you and Sprocket 😊
have you ever put a shim under one edge and another shim on the opposite side to make it wabble?
this way you can adjust the size of the slit.
Excellent job Quinn. Now I have to go make one.
Great vid. I'm also pleased to see you parting off again. Was getting a bit heartbroken after a few vids with bandsaw/hacksaw usage. :P
Excellent, looks great