Let's Make A Slitting Saw Arbor!
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- Опубликовано: 1 янв 2021
- This episode on Blondihacks, I'm making a new saw arbor for my small slitting saws! Exclusive videos, drawings, models & plans available on Patreon!
/ quinndunki
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Наука
Hey everyone- the most common question on this build is why aren’t there wrench flats on the arbor as well? You could do that, but it wasn’t needed for me because the arbor is in the mill when I install the saw. If I want to install it outside, I can hold it in the bench vise.
Another common question is why is the registration diameter on the cap instead of the arbor? Because that was the way that occurred to me to do it such that it would accommodate different saw thicknesses. It’s still less than 1 thou TIR this way and more than good enough for hobby slitting saws. I’ll never claim this is the best way to do anything, but don’t get overly obsessed with details that may not matter for your application, either. Things don’t have to be perfect to work and we’re just hobbyists here.
RED, ORANGE, BLUE, VIOLET, GREEN, BROWN, PINK, MAGENTA, TURQUOISE, YELLOW, GREY, WHITE
This is one colorful comment you might not want to delete.
:
I bought a really expensive super fancy pants .0004 TIR straight shank saw arbor from TMX, and it had the same design in this regard. The thread was actually a separate cap screw, but the registration diameter is on the cap, not the arbor.
Also, fun fact, I made the arbor from this video first, bought a fancy TMX slitting saw, and then the saw didn't fit. I thought it was my fault so I bought the TMX arbor and it turns out that the slitting saw hole was out of round 🙃 I had to go at it with a Dremel before it would fit on the TMX arbor. Yaaay.
Registration on the arbor vs the cap is a tradeoff between theoretical best concentricity and z height; easy enough to put a recess on the cap if you're willing to use a screw in it instead of threading it, but then the cap needs to be tall enough for the registration diameter to nest into it when using a thin saw. With it on the cap it can nest into the arbor where you already need material. I did it on the arbor when I made one, but I was more annoyed by runout than by clearance at the time.
“Because I’m a monster”. I lol’d.
that arbor genuinely looks like it literally wasn't moving. VERY impressive.
My grandpa made himself a caliper with brazed carbide point so he could scribe with it. I have no idea how, but he made it crazy precise. It's a family heirloom now.
Your design lends itself to being made double ended. Why not make the other end fit smaller sized slitting saws. 😉
Brilliant idea!
I agree!
I intend to make one with a Morse taper on the end such that it fits directly in my milling setup of an Emco.
That's not a bad idea until you think about clearance.
@@mattiaconti3682 I don't understand? It would be the same diameter along the whole length.
Pro tip for future you, stamp the wrench size on parts you make.
That's a good idea!
Or make them all the same size and paint the wrench Kubota orange. Damn spell correct.
That is A time saver....
That’s a great idea!
That's a great idea! I write the sizes on the tools, but stamping makes more sense.
Don’t ever stop being a monster. 👊
Yay! It's Blondihacks time!
That's a win, I think it's the most concentric slitting saw set up I've seen, really nice work. All the best for 2021.
For extra monster cred, use Whitworth wrench flats, and a metric screw thread, with your imperial shank size.
I think you just described my import 1985 Enco knee mill. Took some comments from the wizards of Practical Machinist for me to believe the combination of threads the machine actually has.
@@chrismorris8695 I own a lathe which uses metric and imperial screws and nearly every screw and bolt has a different head.
Some are slit some cross and some allen head.
@@Sven_Hein Are you willing to sell one of your two lathes?
@@ChristophPech I had connection issues and it posted twice.
Sadly there's no lathe for sale.
Sound like doing same mechanicsl work on a 1970-1972 years SAAB 99. Think it got all three in there. An English Triumph motor in a Swedish car.. 😁😇
And for us Monsters in training, your shot of the vise clearance at the end shows a way to hold round stock in a vise at an angle using a simple jig. This is by far the clearest example of a how to on slitting saw arbors I have watched so far. 2021, off to a good start.
I will join you as a monster; I use my calipers in whatever they fit to be used for, one can always get new calipers, but not always a new scribeline
Because I am old, I tend to mess up order of operations and forget operations in a setup as well. I have taken to making a check list of everything I need to do to complete a part. While the documenting part is tedious and boring (no, not that kind of boring), it makes the machining part fun and carefree, not to mention my success rate has gone up.
I love your funny comments. Breaks my concentration but makes watching more enjoyable. Well done keep it up.
Damn it Quinn... Everytime I part off something... YYYYYYYYYyyyyyyyyahtzeee. It's stuck for good I'm afraid. Too funny :)
@@jeffdayman8183 I suspect she gets the Tappy Tap Tap line from AvE, but it could be the other way around. I also suspect she has been getting hand gesture cues from ToT.
They're your calipers, so use them however you want! :)
I've not used a slitting saw yet, but have observed that most videos of them show significant runout which offends my OCD tendencies. Loved the project and seeing that saw run in near concentricity. It made my day. I can live with the imperial collet size and metric wrench for tightening, working on most things now days seems to require both systems anyway.
No, we are not stuck with you. We come here by choice and enjoy the trip. Use your calipers how ever you want. They are yours. I have calipers that have been used for marking for at least 35 years and the points are just fine. It's not like you are gouging metal out. You are just scratching the Dykem. Dykem is pretty soft stuff.
But you don't want to mount the calipers in the tool holder and use them as a parting device. 😁
I made the mistake of playing the "quality of life" drinking game while watching...every time Quinn says "quality of life" you take a shot....so now I'm 3 shots down in one video and so is my quality of life lol 😆🍻
Drinking games on my channel are frequently fatal. I should have a warning about that.
@@Blondihacks hahaha as is traditional.
There is a guy here,that makes wood slabs, on
his homebuilt slabbing bandsaw. (Matt Cremona.)
His 3 favorite sayings, "crotch, figure, and combined
to "Crotch Figure." Crotch or figure, a shot or beer.
Crotch Figure, a boilermaker. (Shot IN a beer.)
You will NOT be able to finish his longer videos,
playing the drinking game.
steve
Try drinking to sprocket meows. You'll sleep like a rock.
@@randynovick7972, I've got three of the little critters.
Doesn't work.
But, Sprocket is much better looking than my 2
orange tabby boys, and my grey and white girl.
(Great, they sleep on my bed. I'll be shredded!)
Quinn, save me!
steve
I really like the little projects you do that involve making tools and helpful shop gadgets. I mean, it is a total pyramid scheme of making tools with which you might some day make tools to maybe someday make useful stuff, but it is educational.
Lovely! I particularly like the 14mm wrench (spanner) flats on the 5/8" arbor, it's just the sort of mixing that I would do, and be proud of!
Yeah, people who complain about the continued use of imperial measurement are just those that can't handle *both*... :-)
@@Roy_Tellason speaking as one of those people...... aaaah.... you got me there.
Watching with my blondiehacks mug, coffee tastes much better.
Great job of machining and lots of clearance. I had the same crappy slitting saw arbor and made my own but not for the exact same reason as you. The saw would tighten the screw so tight I could not remove it. The first time I heated the arbor and used a pipe wrench and such to remove the screw. The next time that was not enough to move it and the cap stayed on. So I used an external thread with a nut, not as much clearance but I can get hold of it to remove it. I also put in a key for the saws that have a keyway. I hope you will keep us up to date on how your arbor performs and whether or not it tightens the fastener too much as I just might want to copy it. Thanks for the video.
I did the same thing and never could get the thing apart. Maybe Never Seize next time?
I GET why people are mad about marking with the calipers. I really do. However, I still do it. I end up breaking my calipers by dropping them, or smashed in some other way before I wear them enough to matter anyway. This is why I keep a couple pairs of Starrett or B&S calipers around, so I can just keep working when I forget the calipers on the carriage and bump them onto the floor!
I left a pair on the gear change box of our tiny lathe. The carriage being power fed trapped it against the housing and folded them in half. Barely even loaded the motor.
Scribe marks with your calipers! Yikes!!! You are such a rebellious sort... love it! Nice arbor tutorial. Thanks.
That's pretty spiffy!
Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
Continue to be a monster it is the feeling for the steel and creativity that counts. Something you have in abundance. An old timer from Sweden
“Universal” usually means “One size fits nothing”🤔
Nice job on the arbor👍🏼
Happy New Year! Quinn.
and let's hope we can add some "huge quality of life improvement" ourselves in twentytwentyone.
Dear Quinn, your videos have become a highlight of my Saturdays. Happy New Year for you and please keep them coming.
Quinn, you're not a monster. You're just a Canadian living in America, which means that you get to mix metric and imperial all day long. Please never change.
You're not a monster Quinn.
Mr Pete, however, once put metric threads to an imperial sized nut and that's just evil. 😁
You are a Wonderful person and you are on earth for a special reason.
Love your videos and your personality.
I've had a set of those Dewalt Extreme drill bits for quite a while now, they are great cutting tools. I can tell you that from my experience you can go straight from the centre drill to the finish size (note: the biggest I have is 13mm) without a pilot and without any complaints from the drill bit. Of course, the correct size pilot (must not be larger than the spigot) does reduce the load quite a lot. Stepping up through he sizes is just a no-no with these drills as without anything to hold/guide the central spigot, the drill wanders horribly. Just try the biggest one on some scrap steel and see.
👍 I made my own because I wanted to be able to get closer to the center (depth of cut) and more height clearance to the arbor lower end. Plus I had the materials on hand and I'm a cheap bastard.... I bought about $2k, 40+ pcs, of NOS premium quality US and UK made HSS slitting saws for $85 on e-bay and made two arbors for them from 4140 - 1/2" and 1" centers.
Must be a monster too. Wouldn't know what to do without my trusty dial "scribelipers".
Well done, by the way, I have calipers that I would never use to mark material with and I have calipers that I would mark my material with all day long and never look back. Let the haters hate, it make their lives meaningful.
7:37 Let's add some colourful commentary: Happy New Year!
I don’t do metal machining, but I love watching your projects, thank you for the detail, humour and learning opportunities you provide. Happy New Year.
Thanks Blondihacks, I enjoy the channel, have learned a few things and I appreciate, your honesty in showing mistakes. Cheers
Excellent job.
Peter, how are you.
I come for the puns and I am never disappointed!!
Oh you used your calipers in Arghhhhhpttth! Brown Green lavender Pink Chartreuse Mauve and yea Periwinkle!
I once left delete-able comments, then I realized you actually read your comments. I stopped after that. Awesome video. I really didn't see any runout on your arbor or saw.
ahh this video was...a cut above...and we all saw what you did there....but we arbor no ill will :D
awesome way to start a sat afternoon thanks Quinn
Nice work Quinn, thank you...
Many thanks to you Quinn.
I bought something similar to this for my angle grinder, no idea why. It just looked cool.
It is literally terrifying.
Gotta make one of these I ran into that clearance problem just the other day. Crappy arbor B-Gone!
I was in training some 40 years ago. The person that trained me on the many machines that would work on wood all ways tell me in our set ups that for the quality of life you should do this. I always thought if I didn't do it his ways he would put a hurting on me. I would laugh. But now I see what it means in the way you used that fraise . I am impressed with you ability to teach. Thank you.
Those slitting saws are great for all kinds of jobs. I have a little model builder's table saw that uses slitting saws, and I have a lot of those, so it was obvious that I needed an arbor for the mill too. I placed the mounting flange for the saw blade on the arbor so I could turn both faces in one go. I think this reduces run-out introduced by the screw type you made. No idea if this is really necessary but it works great. I also made an (extra) cap that consists of a counter sunk bolt with a fairly thin ring for clamping which allows me to get real close to my vise.
Hi Quinn, nice job and interesting video -as always - and nice to see the saws being used! I made arbors for my saws in a similar way, with dedicated arbors for every (inner)diameter in order to minimise their height.
A note on the saws, they have legacy and a history worth to mention in these COVID times, they were used for manufacturing prototypes for intensive care ventilators in the 70-ties (:
Layout with digital calipers. Its why I buy Harbor Freight calipers. They are perfect for layout and if I am in a hurry I use my Mits
As to your wrench flats, there is a chart in the machinery handbook on acceptable standard tolerances for both fasteners and wrenches to ensure that all wrenches will fit all fasteners with acceptable grip.
Thank you, will try it. Happy new year, keep upp that good work and you filming. 👍❄
Gonna make one tomorrow!
Happy New Year Quinn! Really enjoy your work and attitude! I spent 31 years in the cutting tool business and miss it. Now I can get my fix watching you! Thank you!
Love your video. Not a machinist so I have no idea what the problem is with marking with your caliper, but I'd venture to say you are not a bad person at all.
If you're a bad person for gently scribing with a caliper, then I don't want to be a good person. I'm still not sure why that procedure is supposed to be bad, and what the preferred method is. Have a good year!
I can think of a few reasons why it's bad but frankly I'm a great believer in do what works for you, I do similar with calipers.
The thought behind it being bad is because calipers are precision measuring instruments and your putting unneeded wear on a measuring surface. My opinion is it's only bad on nice name brand stuff like Mitutoyo or Starrett. I have cheap Amazon calipers I use for fast layout. You can get vernier calipers for under $10, which basically make them disposable.
Fresh out of High School I worked in 2nd operations in a factory cutting slots in the piece that holds the blades in X-acto Knives. That reminded me.
As soon as I get my mill and lathe setup I think I will give this a go, just need to extract the machines from the packing boxes.
Sometimes, I use a section of a bolt instead of cutting threads. I Loctite it into one part so it stays put. You end up with rolled threads made of heat treated steel, so it is stronger than if I made it out of one piece of steel. Your thoughts?
Another low profile tightening method: drill 2 holes on the face of the cap and use a pin spanner wrench to tighten.
Hey I finally found another person who uses their calipers to scribe with though I mainly use them on plastic but I have used them to scribe some mild steel sheet metal
Happy New Year! Looks like a great solution. The more I watch your channel the more I want to be able to machine things to improve them but have too many other "hobbies". Maybe when I retire.
Thank You for making learning so enjoyable.
Thanks Quinn Happy new year
The quality of life of a monster. Hmmm, I like that. Thanks for another excellent video. That arbor is going to be very useful.
I have no training at all in your field but I sure like your video. Thanks for entertaining me.
You are so critical of yourself. Don't worry about what others think. You do you, and forget everyone else.
Learned new color today, teal. Probably one and only machinist in the world that use teal color. Thanks.
Quinn, Please don't loop the sandpaper like that when you are polishing. It can grab and suck your your hand in faster that you can let go of it. Check Adam Savage's hand injury on tested from a few months ago for reference.
By using your calipers to mark a line in the blue you create a silver line. By using multiple colors of markers and more silver lines you could have a very colorful piece indeed. The you would have to delete as needed to actually find the line you needed in the first place.
Nice one Quinn. My arbors have always been based on a 16mm bolt with an section of straight shank before the threads. Threads cut off, and the bolt hex head turned to a few mm thickness. A hole drilled through the shank, and a cylindrical cavity bored in the remains of the head, to the same diameter of the saw hole. A threaded cap goes through the saw blade an into the cavity. A draw bolt (6mm) goes from the shank to the cap.
This allows VERY low profile of the blade holding. The hex of the bolt and that of the drawbolt are both still useable to tighten or loosen the saw blade. Loss of rigidity from the hole through the arbor is not an issue with slitting saws. Keep safe in 2021. Give Sprocket a treat.
Oh hey writing the blade thickness on the cutoff saw in sharpie is a really good idea. I learn a ton by watching how you work, in addition to the main theme of the project.
My American made Starrett calipers that test perfect against gage blocks again and again don't get used for marking, but my cheapos are constantly used for marking. The cheapos are good to within a thou and that is all I ask if I am using layout anyway. Tolerances are a beautiful thing. Your arbor has far better Tolerances than blades are made to, so you are golden.
This is actually really nice, and so much simpler than other low profile slitting saw arbor's I've seen. I'll even forgive using the calipers to make a line, because I've totally never EVER used a tool for other than its intended purpose..NEVER...*cough*
That said, I believe I'll add a wrench flat on the arbor as well. Not because it actually needs it, but because I'm paranoid and I just like the idea of being able to put a wrench on both sides.
So today was all about quality of life. Happy New Year Quinn.
Really nice project, Quinn. Simple, but elegant design work.
Nice arbor. So nice to have imperceptible runout in a slitting saw.
You did a top notch job there my friend. This is coming from a former tool and die machinist and designer. I am getting back into machining at home as a hobby and am gradually building up my tooling. I was using some cheapo Harbor Freight slitting saw the other day with a makeshift arbor I cobbled together. I was in a hurry so I just bit the bullet and went this el cheapo route. well, needless to say, I got through half the cut and the cutter quit on me. I have to take the time and do as you did here. Again, you did a really nice job with your arbor design.
I have a colorful comment to make in regard to using your calipers to mark dimensions. Mauve, cyan, puce. Teal, fuchsia, burgundy. Yellow!
Yellow?!? Pfft! That only matters in Australian chemistry. 4340 HT steel barstock is perfectly acceptable for slitting saw arbors!
@@lordchickenhawk thumbs up for the obscure Australian chemistry reference.... you spend too much time on RUclips:)
@@edgeeffect True that... but then Tom lives not too far away and we both love energetics. He's just a lot better at them than I.
I very much enjoyed this little project. Thank you!
Same issue, so I'll be making one of these next. Great video as usual.
Phrase of the day “quality of life issues” (-:
Nice work, I’ll definitely be trying one of these when I can get back to my shop.
Happy New Year Quinn. I enjoyed the latest video, as I have with all your work. Thanks for allowing us into your machine shop. Enjoy the year 2021 and be safe and well.
Never could figure how my (wood) circular and table saws had better designed precision than machinists' slitting saws. Yours is a good design, and you may have answered the question.
Ooh, lovely! A nice tip yet again. Thank you and stay safe!
Quinn- I love your videos and find them very instructive. One of the things I personally appreciate is that you make “mistakes” just like those of us with who aren’t pros and you make it clear that they aren’t (usually) catastrophic.
PS - I also love the quick puns you routinely throw in.
Bought a horizontal band saw for completing some parting operations that would have been done on the lathe. Life is so much better now.
Perfect timing, I really need to make one of these (likely 3 actually with all my different saw sizes.
As you are using metrics, 👍 you can't be a too bad kind of a monster. 😇😎😉
You are awesome. You make my Saturday a little nicer.
Nice video! Sometimes the best tools are the ones we make ourselves! Thanks for sharing!
thanks! gives me a head start how I wanted to make one, if I get around to doing it haha. my hacksaw is urging me to do so soon!
Thank you for posting this on my birthday. Nice present.
Happy birthday! 🎂 🥳
Great work you monster 👹👨🏻🏭👍🇬🇧
Awesome work as always ❤.
Very nice, great video as always. Happy New Year Quinn!
So in the wonderful words of Laurel and Hardy. "Pass that one by me again!"
So that's a 14 mm AF on a 5/8 stock!!!
Love it and I am off to make a couple for my mill.
Same as yours. David and Lily England.
Excellent, looks great