Hey everyone! I can already tell that the theme in this week’s comments will be “here’s how to make that slitting saw setup rigid”. So: 1) I was assuming tailstock support, yes. I don’t think it would be enough. 2) I considered a two piece arbor and I don’t think a threaded connection is rigid enough, even with a shoulder to centre it. 3) I don’t think it’s rigid enough even with collars slid over the arbor like horizontal milling machines do (even if I did want to spend two days making all those parts just for this attempt, which I did not). Think I’m wrong? Great! Try it! I solved the problem in a quick way that worked for me. You do it your way, as long as you are having fun, that’s what counts.
Hey .. mom... Can I just use a clamped on angle iron' And use a hand held jig saw If you were a girl I'd date cha... [ no that was ... since your're a girl I'd date cha ] .........Spend long hours out in the shop with ya ................Watching you make cuts, drill holes... tap threads ........................ follow behind ya with a shop vac.... .................................after that.. somethin to eat and go watch some crazies PROTESTING MASK MANDATES .............................................. Let's go.. grab your mask .........................................................I already called UBER [ no reason for you to drive us EVERYWHERE ] AWESOME tool accessory
Lol, I was thinking bust out the grinder again 🤣. Your way was more better 😊. Now I feel like I should be standing in the corner for 5 minutes 😏. Happy New Year, Quinn! Cheers! 👍😁👍
I wasn't in favor of the slitting saw right off the bat due to the kerf being much wider than necessary. That can allow tiny pieces you might trim off to jam in next to the blade. My other thought was, is there room to flip the angle iron end for end to put the center of gravity of the saw closer to the vise?
Yeah I agree with you, making an arbor would be overkill. Though my horizontal mill solves that by having a large arbor diameter on the headstock end and then it goes down to the hole diameter at the cutter and the spacers. It came with several arbors that have the thick end different lengths. The thing is over 100 years old!
I cut the slot for mine using an abrasive chop saw, and then made the end of the cut more vertical with a needle file. But I suspect I was satisfied with greater blade clearance than you were after, and the table I made was only 4" square (which I find is better for cutting out small, intricate pieces), so it was small enough to be done in the chop saw. My main regret was not using a harder grade of steel. I polished the top of it up, but over time it is still getting messed up with use. I used a slitting saw in my lathe exactly once before I bought my mill... The job eventually got done but let's just say I learned a lot from that one cut.
As one of the people who suggested one of these tables, I have to say, YAY! I also really like zero-flute countersinks. As you said, they are almost impossible to get chatter with them. Great in a hand drill for deburring holes. In regards to the angle, for those that don't know, metric fasteners use a 90º angle and Imperial fasteners use an 82º angle. Why 82º, I have no idea. lol
It would have been a lot easier to order a table like that on line BUT there is no way you could have found one built with that kind of precision and quality. Once again Quinn, you have demonstrated the difference between "get it done" and "do it right."
You crack me up. Over the years I’ve worked with several people who were just a delight. I think you would be such a person. I’m glad you leave room for your sense of humor.
Believe me or not, I made one of these without checking if they exist, proudly told a friend, and then was shown several online listings! I absolutely appreciate ALL your videos; you are a natural teacher! I have set aside time every day to watch a few. Like your humor, and insights. I have recommended you videos to several friends. Thank you!
Grinder overruns are kinda my signature already. But as imitation is the most sincere form of flattery...I am honored. Oh...talking about the cutting tool and not the dating site. I imagine a "Grinder overrun" means something different in that context. Afraid to look that one up.
good project as usual. 2 tips to improve your shop time with this tool : use a velcro band to hold the trigger and use a pedal switch to enable hands free cutting
Hello from a fellow Software Dev that grew up in a time of industrial arts (70's & 80's). Ever since I bought my Grizzly Combo Lathe/Mill I found your channel and you have helped immensely. I spend all my play money on tools to retire with lol
I cant believe how simple and easy that design was. As you say, a lot of work or small machines, but so useful when it's done. I'm going to build one now! Thanks!
A bonus when using your horizontal bandsaw in vertical mode is you can sit straddling the saw while making long tedious cuts. So yeah. Add the holes for mounting this table on the horizontal saw. Then fab a magnetic or other mount for an LED light focused on your cut line.
I like the zero flute countersink bits. About 30 years ago I bought a bucket full of them in various sizes from Boeing surplus in Wichita. They're 100 degree.
I think you should put a coolant pump on your horizontal band saw. I got the same model as yours and it made an unbelievable difference in cutting speed and blade life. It allows you to cut steel at the highest blade speed the saw offers. I used a $30.00 fountain pump you can find at any garden store and it's been working fine for four years now. You do need to replace the ball bearing blade guides to some with better seals than the ones that come with the saw to keep the coolant out of them. Some sheet metal work to make the splash pans and trays to drain back in to the tank of your choosing and that's it. I use a 10/14 veritable tooth blade and get over a year's use out of each blade at 3x less cut time.
Nice one, maybe a suggestion: you could add a few holes to the saw table to match your pin row like the fixture plate had? Should make for an easy setup if you want to make square cuts with a bit more precision
Might I suggest when doing a cut such as this, when cutting on a fairly thin bit of stock, lowering the cutter to use the top of the flutes where the least wear occurs, with the greatest stiffness in the cut. About 1987, my wife was working for a plumber and gave me a call, saying there was a truck with tools for sale. I bought my 4 by 6 band saw. I have used it ever since, and made a "table" about two inch by three inch, for vertical use, about three sixteenths thick. Even as small as it is, it's very forgiving and has allowed very effective use. I really like the table you made, especially the tight slot. Your entry in this field as an amateur has given me some insight I've not had myself, something I've often noted in my life. I've never considered a table for my such saw, but I think I have to make one, that is very nicely made, much nicer than the sheet metal table commonly offered.
A very Happy New Year Quinn!!! In the last few months, three times the Internet provided solutions to a problem I had with new posts that specifically addressed and solved them! Well Quinn, earlier today I ordered a portable bandsaw, and I was very much hoping I could eventually do exactly what this post is about, and you solved it before the pixels were dry on my order! Maybe this year will actually be better than the last one. "Hope springs eternal".
I just made an aluminum "hook" that fits the "D" handle on the end of the portable band saw and mounted it outside of my shop and a 1/4" x 12"x 12" aluminum table. When I need to cut something, I attach the table and hang the saw on the hook. Works great and leaves the metal sawdust outside of my shop.
Love those zero flutes. They work great, especially the versions with a pilot. I first used one during a job countersinking stainless, I was having an awful time until one of the machinists handed me a piloted zero flute. I bought him lunch.
Nice table. Only two bolts to attach to the saw, so easy to mount for use then remove for storage. Thanks for showing the Dayton CNC fixture plate. I may have to get one of these. Dave.
I'm going to recommend you build you a new larger shop. Simple design to maximize storage and shop space. Buy 4 40 foot shipping containers, place two the width you want your shop, then place the other two on top of the but with the doors facing the opposite end. Now build a roof over the entire thing pour a concrete floor and add doors on each end. This gives you a 40 foot long shop at the width you want plus 4 shipping containers worth of extra space. You can have the two lower for machinery and the two upper for storage.
Hey Quinn you do great work , I wanted to share this tip with you from Ron Covell when cutting small pieces of stock on your new band saw table you can clamp the piece in you machinist vice and advance the material safely into the blade . you can also clamp the piece into the vice and flip the vice over and the material is on the table safely held as it is being cut . The first time I saw Ron do it on one of his video's I thought what a safe way to cut small pieces. Stay heathy the world needs you ...
Hi Quin, A safe way to use your band saw as fixture. Get an Electrical Foot Peddle and cord to length, connect a Male plug one end and a Female the other, run your band saw through this extension, lock the band saw trigger and use the foot peddle. It is much safer than reaching for the switch all the time.
Outstanding. Next, I think, should be a better table for the bigger band saw. Perhaps a short one that can stay on even if / when you change saw modes.
I made one for my 6 x 4, but it had to be profiled to avoid fouling the saw body, so you end up with rather limited plate area. That being said, I use it all the time in vertical and horizontal saw mode. I'm thinking of a clamp-on version of Quinn's solution that will fix to my small permanent table.
I made very similar too last year. I have a low-cost band-saw and a small vice in it for fixing the material. I added a simple support and a small table from 5 mm Aluminum. This made the saw a universal table saw in 30 minutes. Thanks for this one again.
I'm sure you will get lots of use out of this Quinn. I have the Swag unit and it is great. I opted for the foot switch and it is a huge benefit for short jobs, (your basically standing on one foot). Thanks for sharing and Happy New Year!
Build idea: A miter sled that references those fancy squared edges of the table. It would make square/mitered cuts repeatable/accurate with the addition of a stop on the fence. A fun detail could be ball bearing guides, one side could be on eccentric bolts for adjustment, and you know, some off-center turning side quests! Back pocket idea in case the table warps from the cantilevered saw weight: Drill and tap a 10-32 or 1/4-28 hole at the mouth of the blade slot, a short screw threaded in there will keep the sides of the table aligned. (PITA, since it is one more step in the setup/breakdown...)
Hey Quinn. Here’s one for you. When you’re making a paper template for holes take a small peen hammer and just lightly tap around the holes. I use thicker paper like construction paper. It really works good.
Thank you, I have the same porta band and have been thinking of making a table for it for a while, so it is nice to be able to get some ideas from a more experienced maker.
Keeping with that theme I WILL NOT tell you what to do but instead I’ll tell you what NOT to do ! Don’t make a fence for that table, you’d use it to much ! Don’t make a table for your other band saw , it makes to much sense ! And finally DON’T make a vacuum system for those band saws , makes it way to easy to keep clean ! And a light would be way to practical ! But I will tell you this I LIKE YOUR CHANNEL ! But I’m retired on a fixed income and can barely pay attention ! Lmao
I have watched this video probably 10 times now, I have a portaband and really need to make one of these, thanks for the tooling list thats extremely handy.. awesome channel
Ok, so I have to make one of these now. I've seen them and I really like the idea of it. Both of my machines are about the same size as yours, Lathe and Mill. Also, I made a fly cutter about 10.5 years ago in College. Used it a few times and it works great.
Hang it by the D handle above the garbage can by the overhead door. I made a very similar table for my HF portable saw, but from 1/4" plate, fastened from below with short screws threaded into the table. I also noticed yours has the same issue mine had. When you drop it into the vice, it tries to grab on the radius of the angle which is hard on secure clamping and the jaws. I added a couple of set screws in the top leg of the angle that space it far enough above the jaw to clamp on the flat portion of the angle. For the power switch there are momentary control foot pedals that are handy for these saws and drill presses, too!
HAPPY NEW YEAR! And another complement on the use of the flat bar as the makeshift saw guides. I'll be squirreling that away for some future use. The handy portable setup in the vise and the size of your table almost makes me want to rush out and buy a portable band saw.
Hello Quinn very nice job on the saw table you will find that set up very useful I have the swag made table that is my go to saw for small cuts etc even though I have a big band saw but yours is a good set up for limited bench top space also would like to complement you on your craftsmanship on all your projects you share on your channel your humor and wit puts a smile on my face and that’s hard to come by these days
I'm going to join the chorus already clamoring to humbly suggest a foot pedal switch instead of (or perhaps in concert with) the outlet switch. I have one of the cheap Hazard Fraught ones that I use for my wood-cutting bandsaw and it makes things a lot safer, especially when I'm cutting janky pieces. Though I can understand why you might not necessarily need one here, given the difference in scale and power. A one-horse motor on a 14-inch saw has a lot more energy to damage you (or itself!) with than a plug-in portaband like the one you've got. Great video, and definitely something I'm going to keep in mind when I get myself a portaband for my own shop!
Great project! Made something similar to this, but replaced the original plate with one that fit into a stand I built. With a single screw, you can go from portable to vertical. Partnered that with a foot controlled switch.
Very nicely done Quinn, I was thinking of doing the same to mine. Using thicker material for the table is great, so you could mill a slot in it to install a 1/4th inhch bar to use as a referance or fence.
Hi, Quinn. You can probably thank the metric countries for the 90 deg countersunk screws. The imperial standard is 82 degrees. There are other standards that vary by industry.
Quinn I am certainly not telling you what to do but what I have done on my portaband setup is gotten a foot switch from Harbor Freight and it allows me to just zip tie the trigger but it has a nice extension cable on it and I've screwd my portaband on a cart that has all my drill and cutting equipment handy it so its a mobile work station and all I do is just run an extension to it and I can do whatever cutting wherever I need to wheel it.
When I made mine; I used the actual portable bandsaw that I was making the table for to do the cutout for the blade. I don't have a good vise location and I wanted it to be more portable. So, I made a frame and base out of 2x4's and 1/2" plywood. The saw hangs on the frame through the handle holes. I made a switch system on the base that I can plug the saw into and turn it on and off using a switch. Also: The base has a separate cord. I have seen an even more compact set up that gentleman made to use in his garage were the saw hangs on a column by a piece of alltread through the handle mount and two pieces of angle notched out for the alltread. His table wasn't as big as the one that you or I made.
Check out the Harbor Freight foot switch for your saw. Its so convenient to be able to start/stop without any effort. Make sure to get the one that turns on when you step on it and off when you release.
Just as a recommendation rather than using the outlet with a switch like that, use an intermittent contact footswitch. Should an accident happen it might help mitigate the severity. Fun times: wound up cutting my left index finger on one of this exact model saws set up on a table config. While I can't be 100% certain, I'm pretty sure the shock and immediate release of the switch might have saved a fingertip. Might be a little complicated to do but a height-adjustable safety cover would be a good upgrade. Other than that, nice and simple solution! That's much easier to store.
A momentary footswitch is a great addition to this sort of setup. I have one on my portaband table and another on my drill press. They've prevented or reduced bloodshed (and equipment damage) on at least a couple of occasions.
Great adaptation of the portable saw table, as always very nicely machined and finished. I find those saws awe inspiring when you do need them, cheers and a happy new one!
This is cool... I have a setup I recently made up.... I made a table use 1/4"aluminum, 7x7. I have the blade slit facing forward.... As there is not alot of blade support, so an occasional break is possible, moreso than usual.. Having a slit facing forward, allows the blade change flawlessly and without dismounting the table...
Just to be a different sort of nag in the comments: I'm super fond of your videos, and would love to see them keep on coming, there's some space on the left hand side of the underneath of that table, looks like it might fit an e-stop switch for the saw.
Hi Quinn Happy New year, just a note, I’ve had this modification for about two years and it works great, mine is a permanent wall fixture, not sure if your portaband style saw has plastic covers that protect the blade at either end, mine does and I find that because the saw is mounted vertical metal saw dust collects and causes the blade to bind and eventually brake, so I remove the bottom cover in use and return it after use, hope this helps
As always a nice build. I was about to make a version with a full table but I'm going to ditch that plan. I also have limited space. This is a good solution!
Your edges are perfectly square, so you could make a sliding sled (like for a table saw) that fits over it and guides along the left/right edges to help make right angle and/or repetitive cuts easier. It would also apply pressure evenly right behind the cutting area without having to put your fingers near the blade.
Quinn - my favorite video of the new year! And I would NEVER presume to tell you what to do. Your ideas for projects are always spot-on!
How are you not a verified account. This makes no sense.
IMPOSTER!
Hey everyone! I can already tell that the theme in this week’s comments will be “here’s how to make that slitting saw setup rigid”. So:
1) I was assuming tailstock support, yes. I don’t think it would be enough.
2) I considered a two piece arbor and I don’t think a threaded connection is rigid enough, even with a shoulder to centre it.
3) I don’t think it’s rigid enough even with collars slid over the arbor like horizontal milling machines do (even if I did want to spend two days making all those parts just for this attempt, which I did not).
Think I’m wrong? Great! Try it! I solved the problem in a quick way that worked for me. You do it your way, as long as you are having fun, that’s what counts.
Hey .. mom...
Can I just use a clamped on angle iron'
And use a hand held jig saw
If you were a girl I'd date cha... [ no that was ... since your're a girl I'd date cha ]
.........Spend long hours out in the shop with ya
................Watching you make cuts, drill holes... tap threads
........................ follow behind ya with a shop vac....
.................................after that.. somethin to eat and go watch some crazies PROTESTING MASK MANDATES
.............................................. Let's go.. grab your mask
.........................................................I already called UBER [ no reason for you to drive us EVERYWHERE ]
AWESOME tool accessory
Lol, I was thinking bust out the grinder again 🤣. Your way was more better 😊. Now I feel like I should be standing in the corner for 5 minutes 😏. Happy New Year, Quinn! Cheers! 👍😁👍
I wasn't in favor of the slitting saw right off the bat due to the kerf being much wider than necessary. That can allow tiny pieces you might trim off to jam in next to the blade. My other thought was, is there room to flip the angle iron end for end to put the center of gravity of the saw closer to the vise?
Yeah I agree with you, making an arbor would be overkill. Though my horizontal mill solves that by having a large arbor diameter on the headstock end and then it goes down to the hole diameter at the cutter and the spacers. It came with several arbors that have the thick end different lengths. The thing is over 100 years old!
I cut the slot for mine using an abrasive chop saw, and then made the end of the cut more vertical with a needle file. But I suspect I was satisfied with greater blade clearance than you were after, and the table I made was only 4" square (which I find is better for cutting out small, intricate pieces), so it was small enough to be done in the chop saw.
My main regret was not using a harder grade of steel. I polished the top of it up, but over time it is still getting messed up with use.
I used a slitting saw in my lathe exactly once before I bought my mill... The job eventually got done but let's just say I learned a lot from that one cut.
I love the symmetry, using an accessory table on a band saw to make an accessory table for a band saw.
That makeshift blade guide setup (for the challenge cut) is a fricken stroke of genius. Well done!
As one of the people who suggested one of these tables, I have to say, YAY!
I also really like zero-flute countersinks. As you said, they are almost impossible to get chatter with them. Great in a hand drill for deburring holes. In regards to the angle, for those that don't know, metric fasteners use a 90º angle and Imperial fasteners use an 82º angle. Why 82º, I have no idea. lol
Yeah, yet again metric makes no sense. I mean, *ninety* degrees, who dreams this stuff up?
Imperial everything was designed on a dart board.
"Where'd my darts land?"
"Treble 20, double 10 and double 1"
"Awesome, 82 degrees it is"
Don't forget 100º imperial fasteners too!
Aren't they technically single flute?
@@benjo233223 The have an edge, but not one shaped like a traditional cutting flute.
It would have been a lot easier to order a table like that on line BUT there is no way you could have found one built with that kind of precision and quality. Once again Quinn, you have demonstrated the difference between "get it done" and "do it right."
I kind of think she combined the two into get er done right
HAPPY NEW YEAR to all the fabricators world wide! May you end the year with the same number of fingers you started with.
That idea to invert vise jaws is INGENIOUS. I didn't know you could do that!
Same. I literally shouted "WHAT‽" when she did that. Would have saved me SO much time...
You crack me up. Over the years I’ve worked with several people who were just a delight. I think you would be such a person. I’m glad you leave room for your sense of humor.
Blonde hacks is by far one of the best home shop machining channels on the tube.
I am not sure if anyone noticed but Quinn did this entire job topless---- that's right No head covering. Keep up the good work.
It is good to see glimpses of you as I listen to your soothing voice. The Zero Flute Chamfering Tool is so simple it has to work.
Believe me or not, I made one of these without checking if they exist, proudly told a friend, and then was shown several online listings!
I absolutely appreciate ALL your videos; you are a natural teacher! I have set aside time every day to watch a few. Like your humor, and insights. I have recommended you videos to several friends. Thank you!
Grinder overruns are kinda my signature already. But as imitation is the most sincere form of flattery...I am honored. Oh...talking about the cutting tool and not the dating site. I imagine a "Grinder overrun" means something different in that context. Afraid to look that one up.
good project as usual. 2 tips to improve your shop time with this tool : use a velcro band to hold the trigger and use a pedal switch to enable hands free cutting
Smart design and excellent tool obtained. Congratulations and many thanks.
Hello from a fellow Software Dev that grew up in a time of industrial arts (70's & 80's). Ever since I bought my Grizzly Combo Lathe/Mill I found your channel and you have helped immensely. I spend all my play money on tools to retire with lol
I cant believe how simple and easy that design was. As you say, a lot of work or small machines, but so useful when it's done. I'm going to build one now! Thanks!
Came for the machining, stayed for the gun show. 😃 Happy New Year Quinn. I'm not telling you to have one, just a suggestion.
A bonus when using your horizontal bandsaw in vertical mode is you can sit straddling the saw while making long tedious cuts. So yeah. Add the holes for mounting this table on the horizontal saw. Then fab a magnetic or other mount for an LED light focused on your cut line.
I like the zero flute countersink bits. About 30 years ago I bought a bucket full of them in various sizes from Boeing surplus in Wichita. They're 100 degree.
I think you should put a coolant pump on your horizontal band saw. I got the same model as yours and it made an unbelievable difference in cutting speed and blade life. It allows you to cut steel at the highest blade speed the saw offers. I used a $30.00 fountain pump you can find at any garden store and it's been working fine for four years now. You do need to replace the ball bearing blade guides to some with better seals than the ones that come with the saw to keep the coolant out of them. Some sheet metal work to make the splash pans and trays to drain back in to the tank of your choosing and that's it. I use a 10/14 veritable tooth blade and get over a year's use out of each blade at 3x less cut time.
Steve Summers did this not too long ago and did a great video of the build.
Nice one, maybe a suggestion: you could add a few holes to the saw table to match your pin row like the fixture plate had? Should make for an easy setup if you want to make square cuts with a bit more precision
That's a good idea. Happy New Year,
A happy new year to you (and whoever reads this) too!
Might I suggest when doing a cut such as this, when cutting on a fairly thin bit of stock, lowering the cutter to use the top of the flutes where the least wear occurs, with the greatest stiffness in the cut. About 1987, my wife was working for a plumber and gave me a call, saying there was a truck with tools for sale. I bought my 4 by 6 band saw. I have used it ever since, and made a "table" about two inch by three inch, for vertical use, about three sixteenths thick. Even as small as it is, it's very forgiving and has allowed very effective use. I really like the table you made, especially the tight slot. Your entry in this field as an amateur has given me some insight I've not had myself, something I've often noted in my life. I've never considered a table for my such saw, but I think I have to make one, that is very nicely made, much nicer than the sheet metal table commonly offered.
A very Happy New Year Quinn!!! In the last few months, three times the Internet provided solutions to a problem I had with new posts that specifically addressed and solved them! Well Quinn, earlier today I ordered a portable bandsaw, and I was very much hoping I could eventually do exactly what this post is about, and you solved it before the pixels were dry on my order! Maybe this year will actually be better than the last one. "Hope springs eternal".
I just made an aluminum "hook" that fits the "D" handle on the end of the portable band saw and mounted it outside of my shop and a 1/4" x 12"x 12" aluminum table. When I need to cut something, I attach the table and hang the saw on the hook. Works great and leaves the metal sawdust outside of my shop.
Just watched this for the second time. Still makes good watching. Maybe one day I’ll be motivated to get off my arse and make a table for my bandsaw!
Love those zero flutes. They work great, especially the versions with a pilot. I first used one during a job countersinking stainless, I was having an awful time until one of the machinists handed me a piloted zero flute. I bought him lunch.
Nice table. Only two bolts to attach to the saw, so easy to mount for use then remove for storage.
Thanks for showing the Dayton CNC fixture plate. I may have to get one of these.
Dave.
Check out Fireball Tool for a good fixture plate. He has a great YT channel and is a very enterprising smart young man.
I'm going to recommend you build you a new larger shop. Simple design to maximize storage and shop space. Buy 4 40 foot shipping containers, place two the width you want your shop, then place the other two on top of the but with the doors facing the opposite end. Now build a roof over the entire thing pour a concrete floor and add doors on each end. This gives you a 40 foot long shop at the width you want plus 4 shipping containers worth of extra space. You can have the two lower for machinery and the two upper for storage.
Hey Quinn you do great work , I wanted to share this tip with you from Ron Covell when cutting small pieces of stock on your new band saw table you can clamp the piece in you machinist vice and advance the material safely into the blade . you can also clamp the piece into the vice and flip the vice over and the material is on the table safely held as it is being cut . The first time I saw Ron do it on one of his video's I thought what a safe way to cut small pieces. Stay heathy the world needs you ...
Nice job! One of the handiest tools in the shop. Get yourself a foot switch for it, It's a game changer!
Hi Quin, A safe way to use your band saw as fixture. Get an Electrical Foot Peddle and cord to length, connect a Male plug one end and a Female the other, run your band saw through this extension, lock the band saw trigger and use the foot peddle. It is much safer than reaching for the switch all the time.
This is a good start to the new year 😊
I dig that bandsaw jig with the welding fixtures....Pretty cool
Outstanding. Next, I think, should be a better table for the bigger band saw. Perhaps a short one that can stay on even if / when you change saw modes.
I made one for my 6 x 4, but it had to be profiled to avoid fouling the saw body, so you end up with rather limited plate area. That being said, I use it all the time in vertical and horizontal saw mode. I'm thinking of a clamp-on version of Quinn's solution that will fix to my small permanent table.
thanks Blondi for this video I just bought one of these band saws and wanted to build a table love your projects.
"gun show" A+ content, perfect, you rock. 💪
Agreed. And in fact, all the smart-alec pop-up titles were on-point.
I made very similar too last year. I have a low-cost band-saw and a small vice in it for fixing the material. I added a simple support and a small table from 5 mm Aluminum. This made the saw a universal table saw in 30 minutes. Thanks for this one again.
SAE countersinks are 82 degree and metric is 90 degree PITA.
SAE Aerospace CSK angle is 100 degrees
You definitely deserve a cookie for this one, Quinn. Beautifully done.
I'm sure you will get lots of use out of this Quinn. I have the Swag unit and it is great. I opted for the foot switch and it is a huge benefit for short jobs, (your basically standing on one foot). Thanks for sharing and Happy New Year!
Nice little addition to the shop, you’ll be glad you made it, and start wondering why you didn’t do it sooner. 👍👍
Build idea: A miter sled that references those fancy squared edges of the table. It would make square/mitered cuts repeatable/accurate with the addition of a stop on the fence. A fun detail could be ball bearing guides, one side could be on eccentric bolts for adjustment, and you know, some off-center turning side quests!
Back pocket idea in case the table warps from the cantilevered saw weight: Drill and tap a 10-32 or 1/4-28 hole at the mouth of the blade slot, a short screw threaded in there will keep the sides of the table aligned. (PITA, since it is one more step in the setup/breakdown...)
That is one of the nicest portaband tables Ive seen nice job.
Hey Quinn. Here’s one for you. When you’re making a paper template for holes take a small peen hammer and just lightly tap around the holes. I use thicker paper like construction paper. It really works good.
Thank you, I have the same porta band and have been thinking of making a table for it for a while, so it is nice to be able to get some ideas from a more experienced maker.
Keeping with that theme I WILL NOT tell you what to do but instead I’ll tell you what NOT to do ! Don’t make a fence for that table, you’d use it to much ! Don’t make a table for your other band saw , it makes to much sense ! And finally DON’T make a vacuum system for those band saws , makes it way to easy to keep clean ! And a light would be way to practical ! But I will tell you this I LIKE YOUR CHANNEL ! But I’m retired on a fixed income and can barely pay attention ! Lmao
I see through your reverse psychology. 🧐
@@Blondihacks oooops ! To obvious ? Lmao
I have watched this video probably 10 times now, I have a portaband and really need to make one of these, thanks for the tooling list thats extremely handy.. awesome channel
Nice, thank you internet for getting her to show off her talent
Great little project Quinn, Simple but very practical. Nice job and great video.
Thanks for sharing.
Ok, so I have to make one of these now. I've seen them and I really like the idea of it. Both of my machines are about the same size as yours, Lathe and Mill. Also, I made a fly cutter about 10.5 years ago in College. Used it a few times and it works great.
Nifty! Bluing the table would make it look even cooler~
Those bolt-on counter sinks are super cool!
It was nice to see this video as I just bought a portable band saw last weekend. Now to make a table! Thanks
Hang it by the D handle above the garbage can by the overhead door.
I made a very similar table for my HF portable saw, but from 1/4" plate, fastened from below with short screws threaded into the table. I also noticed yours has the same issue mine had. When you drop it into the vice, it tries to grab on the radius of the angle which is hard on secure clamping and the jaws. I added a couple of set screws in the top leg of the angle that space it far enough above the jaw to clamp on the flat portion of the angle.
For the power switch there are momentary control foot pedals that are handy for these saws and drill presses, too!
Always amazes me how diddy your mill is! It does well for a little machine
HAPPY NEW YEAR! And another complement on the use of the flat bar as the makeshift saw guides. I'll be squirreling that away for some future use.
The handy portable setup in the vise and the size of your table almost makes me want to rush out and buy a portable band saw.
Hello Quinn very nice job on the saw table you will find that set up very useful I have the swag made table that is my go to saw for small cuts etc even though I have a big band saw but yours is a good set up for limited bench top space also would like to complement you on your craftsmanship on all your projects you share on your channel your humor and wit puts a smile on my face and that’s hard to come by these days
Quinn wishing all the best for 2022
Nice quick clamps using the large washers !
Oh, as ever - fantastically executed and stop putting yourself down!
I'm going to join the chorus already clamoring to humbly suggest a foot pedal switch instead of (or perhaps in concert with) the outlet switch. I have one of the cheap Hazard Fraught ones that I use for my wood-cutting bandsaw and it makes things a lot safer, especially when I'm cutting janky pieces. Though I can understand why you might not necessarily need one here, given the difference in scale and power. A one-horse motor on a 14-inch saw has a lot more energy to damage you (or itself!) with than a plug-in portaband like the one you've got.
Great video, and definitely something I'm going to keep in mind when I get myself a portaband for my own shop!
Great project!
Made something similar to this, but replaced the original plate with one that fit into a stand I built. With a single screw, you can go from portable to vertical. Partnered that with a foot controlled switch.
Excellent! Yet another absolutely necessary thing for me to do. Thank you, Quinn, you are such a dear!
I've clamped my DeWalt saw by its "J" hook in a 6 inch vise. Not optimum. Now there's a new day and a new way! Thanks and Happy New Year!
Very nicely done Quinn, I was thinking of doing the same to mine. Using thicker material for the table is great, so you could mill a slot in it to install a 1/4th inhch bar to use as a referance or fence.
my goodness, you're a talented person! Just think of the use you're going to get out of this project!
Hi, Quinn. You can probably thank the metric countries for the 90 deg countersunk screws. The imperial standard is 82 degrees. There are other standards that vary by industry.
Thanks Quinn - all the best for 2022
Quinn I am certainly not telling you what to do but what I have done on my portaband setup is gotten a foot switch from Harbor Freight and it allows me to just zip tie the trigger but it has a nice extension cable on it and I've screwd my portaband on a cart that has all my drill and cutting equipment handy it so its a mobile work station and all I do is just run an extension to it and I can do whatever cutting wherever I need to wheel it.
I have no witty joke or anything, I'm just happy to see you've got my friend the Admiral on your shirt in one shot.
When I made mine; I used the actual portable bandsaw that I was making the table for to do the cutout for the blade. I don't have a good vise location and I wanted it to be more portable. So, I made a frame and base out of 2x4's and 1/2" plywood. The saw hangs on the frame through the handle holes. I made a switch system on the base that I can plug the saw into and turn it on and off using a switch. Also: The base has a separate cord. I have seen an even more compact set up that gentleman made to use in his garage were the saw hangs on a column by a piece of alltread through the handle mount and two pieces of angle notched out for the alltread. His table wasn't as big as the one that you or I made.
Agreed on the countersinks. To make it worse, aerospace uses mostly 100 degree due to low thicknesses
What better way to start a saturday evening than with the familiar clicks of these switches:)
Check out the Harbor Freight foot switch for your saw. Its so convenient to be able to start/stop without any effort. Make sure to get the one that turns on when you step on it and off when you release.
Fantastic! I just converted my wood bandsaw into a metal cutting bandsaw, great video Quinn, thanks!
Thanks once again for posting. As usual your play by play are informative and amusing.
Just as a recommendation rather than using the outlet with a switch like that, use an intermittent contact footswitch. Should an accident happen it might help mitigate the severity. Fun times: wound up cutting my left index finger on one of this exact model saws set up on a table config. While I can't be 100% certain, I'm pretty sure the shock and immediate release of the switch might have saved a fingertip.
Might be a little complicated to do but a height-adjustable safety cover would be a good upgrade. Other than that, nice and simple solution! That's much easier to store.
A momentary footswitch is a great addition to this sort of setup. I have one on my portaband table and another on my drill press. They've prevented or reduced bloodshed (and equipment damage) on at least a couple of occasions.
Great to watch how you deal with the issues as they come along. Always something I can add to my cerebral toolbox (if I can remember them).
Also would have gone the bandsaw route vs slitting saw. And good to see it worked. Bandsaw for the win!!
Great adaptation of the portable saw table, as always very nicely machined and finished. I find those saws awe inspiring when you do need them, cheers and a happy new one!
This is cool...
I have a setup I recently made up....
I made a table use 1/4"aluminum, 7x7.
I have the blade slit facing forward.... As there is not alot of blade support, so an occasional break is possible, moreso than usual..
Having a slit facing forward, allows the blade change flawlessly and without dismounting the table...
Looks good Quinn. My experience is those square corners will take chunks of skin if you don't round them, other than the corners excellent job.
Just to be a different sort of nag in the comments: I'm super fond of your videos, and would love to see them keep on coming, there's some space on the left hand side of the underneath of that table, looks like it might fit an e-stop switch for the saw.
Great addition to the workshop well done.
Great video, and your narration - as ever - is wonderful.
Hi Quinn Happy New year, just a note, I’ve had this modification for about two years and it works great, mine is a permanent wall fixture, not sure if your portaband style saw has plastic covers that protect the blade at either end, mine does and I find that because the saw is mounted vertical metal saw dust collects and causes the blade to bind and eventually brake, so I remove the bottom cover in use and return it after use, hope this helps
As always a nice build. I was about to make a version with a full table but I'm going to ditch that plan. I also have limited space. This is a good solution!
Thanks for sharing and adding more things I need to make! Very helpful!
Toms Techniques!!! I miss that guy. Brilliant stuff.
That's brilliant! Now I know how to build this thing that I've been wanting to build but not knowing how!
Love your videos - and your sense of humor.
Happy New Year Quinn, and Sprocket too!
Sprocket says Happy Meow Year
Your edges are perfectly square, so you could make a sliding sled (like for a table saw) that fits over it and guides along the left/right edges to help make right angle and/or repetitive cuts easier. It would also apply pressure evenly right behind the cutting area without having to put your fingers near the blade.
That's a good idea, I need something like that for my hacked-about 6 x 4 junksaw
Wow!
Nice shop and great skills. We’ll done 👏
Quinn,verywell done and once again you prove you're a daisy!!
I have that mill vice (or a very similar one), and I never noticed the jaws can be flipped like that. Thank you for posting that!
I like yours better than the one I bought. Nicely thought out.
Very nice approach to this!