Lathe Stop!
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- Опубликовано: 30 июн 2024
- This episode on Blondihacks, I'm making a carriage stop for my lathe! Exclusive videos, drawings, models & plans available on Patreon!
/ quinndunki
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3D printed version of this carriage stop : www.thingiverse.com/thing:285...
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Lots of good theories on the 94°, but I think the most convincing one is that it’s so they can easily grind the mating surface on the carriage with a 90° wheel and not have to worry about clearances. Sounds plausible to me!
And yes I know tongue and grooves and mortise and tenons are all things that people want to know that I should know.
(Al + Fe) * hanky panky = galvanic babies
Ask Mr Pete. The RUclips shop teacher. If he doesn’t know no one knows.
I'm gonna have to use that precision cat hair tip, although mine would be precision dog hair. I wonder how that scales? 😉
#MetricDegrees
I recently both watched this video and skimmed Moore's Foundations of machine accuracy. Page 56 concludes that 90 degree V-way is the "best practical choice" (for measuring machine design, that is).
Just so you know, a TOT video came up while was watching this and I waited until this was done.
Wow, that’s the highest RUclips praise. 😁
I’m going to watch that one as soon as I’m done here.
Blondihacks I’m watching yours first because your hands are cuter than Tony’s
@@Blondihacks It's a good one too - Tony has discovered tool steel filler rod 😁
@@machinist7230 Yup, one more reason that I need to learn to tig weld. And get a welder.
100 less 94 degrees gives you “6 degrees of Kevin Bacon”
I like the way you show your projects warts and all , instead of skipping over the mistakes . It gives the rest of us confidence in our limited abilities . Another good project .Thank you 😀
Just wanted to say...I have just bought my first lathe, an emco unimat 3, I know it's a baby but hey it's a lathe. After 2 weeks of taking it apart, cleaning everything and putting it back together ( I dont know why I do this but I do it with everything haha), I have faced off and turned my first piece. It is thanks to you and your brilliant videos that my first (okay second 😁) piece came out so well. Keep up the great work.
Now I need to shop for a bigger lathe haha.
Regards,
Elliot
I also take everything apart before I can use it, for whatever reason my brain can't use something if I haven't looked inside of it yet.
Congratulations on your first lathe. Don't feel intimidated with the size of other people's lathes. It should provide you with years of satisfaction and fun projects.
Your in the right place to learn how to get the best out of your little lathe, stick with it.
I still have the Unimat 3 I bought in my youth, and 40+ years on it's still in regular use, in front of and a little to the right of my Myford Super 7. Get some good 1/4" HSS tools, keep them sharp (a small oilstone is an essential accessory) and it will give good finishes on almost any metal and serve you well. The only things I can't do on mine are threadcutting and "big stuff", though I made a couple of tailstock die holders for (and on) mine and you might be surprised at the size of some things I've been able to do, with careful setups.
I was lucky enough to find a Unimat collet chuck cheaply because it had only one collet and was missing the backplate; I machined a new backplate from cast iron and made a couple of collets, machining the slots in them with a setup not unlike Quinn's with a universal slitting saw arbor and small second-hand slitting saws. Much later, I bought an ER16 collet nut which has the right thread pitch but larger diameter and added some helicoil, so now I can use both original E16/ES16 collets and modern ER16 collets.
@@robertoswalt319 thanks for the reply. I have already fell in love with it. Any books or ideas on good first projects? I've got a few small projects lined up but only tiny things.
An option for thread in Aly is to fit helicoils, these are a thread repair system which installs a S/S coil, in the shape of the required thread, in the hole. Have used them extensively on Aly motorcycle engine cases and the new thread is extremely strong.
Such a pleasure watching and hearing you! Learning so much… you are the greatest!!!
You are without a doubt the consummate machinist, bar none!! Your explanations, your quips, your clarity are the perfect mixture of valuable information and wonderful levity that make you nothing short of genius! You are a treasure and have earned your place as an inspirational RUclips phenom!!! It’s obviously you are passionate about what you do😊 thank you!!
I love it that you admit to making mistakes, when I make a calculated error(often) I get angry with myself for doing it wrong. Keep up the good work.
Of course, I do what I can to make the part correctly enough. (perfection costs infinite time and skill) If it is the first try, my quality standard is super-loose; can I even continue to make the part after what I just screwed up? If the answer is yes, I just keep going, collecting notes on how to avoid all the further errors I make before I finish. If I can still use the wreckage to test the concept, great. Otherwise, I chuck it in the scrap bin and do it again.
94 degrees is just more degrees for your money. Added value 👍
Excellent job, Quinn, as always. Love watching your work.
Big Muskie, I can remember going with my father to watch it work back in the early 70's
I've been wanting to make one of these for my grizzly lathe of similar casting but didn't know where to start. perfect timing!
I so look forward to your weekly videos. Luv your humour and quirkinesses. I started as a machinist in 1980 and have never stopped learning. Keep up the great work.
Snorted out loud at "Big Muskie the 13,000 ton dragline," because that trivia occupies a seldom-used corner of my brain as well!
I love, love, love how you analyze design and order of operation decisions, because it is so much more informative than simply acknowledging a mistake or sub-optimal choice.
I also like seeing someone adapt who doesn't have the best tool for every job, works with the limitations of what she has, and makes a worthwhile product. Kudos for using angle blocks, a protractor, adjustable parallels, and machinist jacks in a single video!
You have a very clear way of explaining things. Nice work!
Thank you Quinn for many hours of entertainment and education.
90 metric degrees = 94 imperial degrees
😀
You sir, win the Internet. 👍
@@chrisj4570g My thoughts exactly.
Yes imperial right angle.
Nah. It was designed in Indiana, using radians.
Very nice job. Very satisfying to see it work so well.
The way you explain things and the beauty of your hands make this video hypnotic... Awesome
Learning so much from these videos after acquiring a British made Myford ML10. Very educated lady. Many thanks from over the pond🙂
What you said about tenons is 100% correct.
Interesting, I picked up on that as well but I have never heard of it, I wonder does the species have another name?
My local tool supply carries Thurston HSS slitting saws. I have had good results with the 2.75" x 0.040" 72-tooth blades on my small mill. I usually run 400RPM in mild steel and a little faster in aluminum, definitely in the conventional direction only unless you have ball screws. I did make my own TTS-style arbor, which is very rigid, but the saw still runs out.
Yah, real machinists tell me that 100% of slitting saws run out. It’s part of why they say to take deep cuts with them, otherwise one tooth does all the work.
Great Video! I really enjoy your humor and style, and how you make what you don't have!
Still laughing about "scar upon the earth" segment. You rock!
Darn you! I just finished designing and 3D printing one last week! Now I have to make another! :)
Excellent, I have been needing one of those and now I know what to do. Thanks!
What a great little project. You cracked me up with your strip mining analogy!
I've been forming an idea to make a stop for about a week now and your video came at a perfect time. I made a wooden prototype that includes both a dial holder and a stop. I assumed that the "way" angle was 90 degrees, apparently it isn't. Thanks for pointing that out.
Very nice. The next day I’m able to work in the shop, I’ll make this stop based on your 3D drawings, the materials are laid out.
I am never quite sure what to expect from you Quinn but I am usually not surprised. However the Big Muskee reference was a complete outlier. I love it! Cheers
I think the 94 degrees on the ways is not so much for the ways themselves but for the matching surfaces on the head stock, carriage, and tail stock to allow for clearance to machine of those surfaces. That's my guess. Great video as always.
I like the angle blocks, as opposed to the sine bar. You used them for their intended purpose. As others have said, I like the way your mind works. The things you learned from the plastic part were used to make a better metal part - and all of us learned how to make a better carriage stop. + Thanks +
Thank you so much for your videos Quinn! I have a lathemaster 9x30 which seems to be close to your lathe. I used your thingaverse model to print out a plastic lathe stop and it worked perfectly! You are an inspiration to everyone with a hobby shop!
oh the overlay showing which face you're using is really cool Quinn! helps keep track on the more complicated parts :)
Quin, just so you know. Keith Rucker now has two new shop kittens. You'll have to get more cats.
We’re all jealous of Steve’s shop squirrels though.
@@Blondihacks So true. However, I have a shop snake. Sometimes when the weather is really hot (in finland 25 degrees celcius is already really hot) the viper is chilling on the shop floor. The finnish version of a viper is like us, if You don't disturb it, it wont disturb You. I wish I had some pictures of it. Next time then :)
My shop has bats.
I use the angle blocks, tends to make affordability a reality, but this is a comment on an old video which probably will never be seen , keep up the good stuff
Another great little episode.
Hi Blondi. You are the best! I´m from Brazil and doing a research on bying a lathe. Your videos are very helpfull. I will soon be om your patreons page. The didactics is great. Thank you!
That sliding clamp is genius!
Slitting saws are what I use on my CNC all the time. Helps reduce ops. I use a 3.5" diameter 72 tooth carbide saw, 0.058" thickness. It's quick satisfying to have a very thin web at the end.
Loved this vid. Thank you for showing all your mistakes.
Looks and works great, good job!
Hey Quinn I been watching you TOT and Stefan for a while and had to get started in Machining so got me 600 lb. Muster a Bolton Tools 500 lathe/ mill combo and I have been buying all my tooling equipment and metal from Ebay . I had a good laugh on your video about the first lathe project was a ring and before I saw your video my first thing was in fact a Titanium ring I made for myself.
You should drill and tap the back side of the carriage casting, right beneath the cross slide, and install a rod perpendicular to the bed....then you can mount an indicator for the cross slide....my south bend had a 3/8-16 hole there ....I installed a piece of all thread and made a mount to hold a 2" travel indicator....worked awesome!!
Hammer time!
There ought to be a word like "Yahtzee" to describe that beautiful fit and slide.
My vote would be “shwiiiing”.
Nice 😊! I've been putting off making one of these for quite some time. 94° does seem a bit odd. Maybe it reduces the likelihood of the carriage trying to ride up and reduces friction?... I can only speculate 🤔. Thanks for sharing, Quinn! Thoroughly enjoyed 😁. Cheers!
Coming soon to RUclips: Blondihacks: Timber edition! Love the vid, brilliant content as always. Going to have to get my students to make a few of these for our lathes at school, brilliant project!
PS: as a woodworker, I’d probably call that a Tongue and Groove joint (like you’d find on flooring, at least here in Oz), rather than a M&T joint. But given you’re now running a woodworking channel as well, I’ll bow to your superior knowledge!
And I should have read ALL of the pinned post first!
You have done amazing job
People who call end mills slot drills also place groceries in their boot, engines in their bonnet, and add superfluous vowels to the words color and check. In other words , they “ain’t no count.”
You have a delightful sense of humor.
Quinn, this is Brilliant! Your lathe stop is cute 🥰
Like all other stuff you make)
And humor too)
Excellent result. Well done.👏👏😀
definitely want to see more of your work ^^ i love your videos (and this one is only the second i watched from you) ! keep workin !
What a cool little project, been thinking about 3d printing an indicator holder for ages because of you, maybe I should finally do it seeing as I dont have a mill haha
Yay Blondihacks time!!
I'm always lagging behind what you're doing so I'm off to make a 3d printed carriage stop. What a great idea. And, yeah, a slitting saw in the mill always looks just terrifying. But boy they do a fantastic job.
Love your projects ... making your own tools!
Just made this. Not precise as per plans as I'm a newbe.. I was uncomfortable with how close the cap head screw hole "could" be drilled to the indicator hole. After a head scratch or two I decided to skip the clamping feature and slit. I drilled a hole in the end level with the indicator hole for a set screw to secure the indicator. Very happy with the result. Thanks Quinn for the outline/idea.
Excellent! Nice to hear someone else made it
For some reason, my brain really wants to sing the title of this video to the tune of "Love Shack" by the B-52s. Thought someone might appreciate that. Or not. Either way, great video!
It’s a little old place where we can get together
Pink tool trolley - how cool is that!
Great job
Great stuff
"rendered from the earth, with extreme predjudous" so lovely and eloquint.
Thanks Quinn
I made a very similar one years ago but I bolted a hacksawed off micrometer end to it so I had a micrometer adjustable stop for facing a part to length
Hi Quinn, thank you for another useful video. I appreciate the time you put in beside filming the event, is large. I would like to help you with a bit of advice, and, for many others I see do the same thing. (Don't think I'm singling you out).
When using a hack saw, please use two hands, one on the handle and the other on the frame front. Your blades will last longer, your cuts way more controlled and your fingers will love you even more. The hacksaw is one of my "go to" hand tools, I have three with different tooth pitch blades fitted, adjacent to my vice. I used to train machining apprentices and the file and hacksaw were major learning points for them.
Please keep your vids comming, they are aimed at the right demographic of machine tool owners. Well done.
You struggled with this one a bit. You are human!
Thank you for the idea.
Great video
Your channel is the reason I have been considering getting a small milling machine, needing to be more organized and logical is the only thing holding me back... it would be very cool to have a tool that helps you make more tools for your tools. (And make stop motion animation joints, knife fittings, bees, whatever comes out of a mill)
Great job!
Thank you for taking us through the process; I'd have fully assumed it was 90 degrees.
nice project that will help with precision in future projects
Love the Big Muskie reference. Muskingum Coal was south of where I lived in Ohio, my Dad went to see it running as a child. Sadly I believe only the bucket remains.
That is sad! An incredible machine.
My knees buckled when I saw your tool list. I've a long way to go.
Quinn, Awesome really enjoyed watching your video and thanks for sharing.!.!.!.
Really nice job, enjoyed watching. Thanks.
I'm guessing milling the mating surface would be easier if the angle is greater than 90 degrees.
As a native Ohioan, I appreciate the "Big Muskie" reference!
As a woodworker, I enjoy your occasional sniping of woodworkers.
I don’t come here for the engineering content anymore, just the woodworking jokes!
Good job, normally I would expect to use the 3D printing to refine your design before whittling metal. On that point I must get round to changing my end stops from 3D printed versions. I would guess an angle slightly greater than 90 degrees is used so it is possible to grind the sides of an internal V using the radius of the grinder (or possibly shaper) whilst maintaining side clearance.
Another way to remove that clamp from the block is to bandsaw it off from the chunk and then mill the sawcut face to dimension. I feel the same way that you do about slitting saws and I usually find a way to avoid using them. For instance, when I'm making a clamp in steel I just use a super thin cutoff wheel in my angle grinder to make a narrow slit.
Very nice video. Well done and easy to follow and listen to. I will definitely build one of these machinist hammers. Easier to machine the central head tap on the milling machine, as you mentioned in the video. I would rather drill thru & counterbore the head for a #10-24 SHCS and tap the end of the handle for same, then c’bore the opposite side (180 degrees on center of the clearance hole and c’bore) for the handle to fit into the turned diameter. Keep up the good work.
I just checked the front v-way my Grizzly G0602, which I've always assumed is made from essentially the same castings, and to my surprise, it's square. No idea why the PM would be 94 degrees. I wonder if they're all that way or if yours is a unicorn.
Wow that’s really interesting. The castings are the same, I’m sure, but they must grind them differently. I think Weiss makes the PM machine.
Blondihacks I just checked my PM1340GT and it’s 90 dead on. Maybe the one precision square used on mainland China is out of calibration. 😁
If you ever want to complete your set, I could send you some of my Precision Labrador Hairs. The tortie hairs I’ve got claim to be precision, but they vary unacceptably.
Maybe a sine bar for a future project?
Thermoplastic is great for making an impression that you can scan (or measure...) and import into your 3D CAD software.
I have a LeBlond Regal 13" circa 1940's - 50's that needs the same thing. Also a clamp for the taper attachment. All projects to do when I get a mill within the next year. Thanks for the ideas and education. You, James and Joe Pie are my YT machining hero's. Thank you so much for sharing your experience and knowledge. If you were to upgrade your mill, what would you get? PS - Give Sprocket a pet for me.
Lovely!
Edge Technology makes a pretty nice one of these for $60 with the indicator included.
Smiled pretty big when you eventually got around to saying the word "overconstrained" since my brain was going "overconstrained?" since the beginning. What weird geometry, but as these tools have been around a long time and are well understood, I assume there's a useful reason for it.
I made something similar, but use it as a dead stop instead of an indicator holder. The tenon is OK for a printed part, but is a pain if machining one. All that's actually needed is a retained pin superglued into the holder, and a slightly oversized hole in the clamp bar. Much, much easier to make! It's used nearly every time I use the lathe. and after six year's use the locating notch is starting to spread, so I'll eventually replace it with a steel part.
Nicely done, as always. Now to make mine. 😊 -Mark
From what I've read the reason the ways are 94° is a corner cutting measure as the saddle and ways just need to match and slide along 1 degree of freedom. As the faces of the ways generally aren't used for precision machining, it's cheaper to give the ways a larger angle tolerance and match all mating components to that new master angle.
Today I learned about tennons. I will be sure to use this triva in polite conversation at the next dinner party I attend
Very interesting and nicely edited video. I'm just a little bit surprised with the issue you faced with the large slitting saw. I have a 200 W tiny mill (SIXIS S101) and and I've never experienced such problems. I only have second hans HSS slitting saws (high hand Swiss brands such as Fraisa or Siso), but never resharpened. However, probably I would have proceeded differently: cut at the band saw, then surfaced on the mill (fly cutter). Greetings from Switzerland
That's a great little project. I'm surprised you didn't use a cam clamp instead but I can understand the extra work
Seems like a good use case for a dab of Moglice. Granted, it’s overkill, but you wouldn’t have to muck around with trying to hit weird angles. And you wouldn’t lose sleep over the inevitable galvanic hanky panky between the Al and Fe.
Wait, what?!? I'm caught up! I have now watched all of your content on this channel!! And a lot of great content there is. :)
I look forward to much more accumulating over time... which I'll do less binging of, but hopefully keep up on. :)
The deformation in the plastic for the stop is a problem if you use the auto feed. However, for a student, where it has to do manual feeds, it is a god send. If I get in, I am designing and printing one of these for the lathes where I will be studying at, that is for sure.