I got an idea! If you aneal a piece of shimstock, use this tool to punch a rivet in that, and bend it to the right shape and harden it again, you might end up with a nice little spring that can help with spacing the rivets out correctly by acting as a little springy dimple index that registers in the previous dimple
Beautiful rivet embossing jig, Quinn! You really out do yourself with these jigs! I just clamped a few pieces of metal together for the fence and base, but you really go all out! Very nice. One thing I do remember about that rivet embossing operation is that the 'fixed' spacing doesn't always work out across the width of the sheet. I had to make some adjustments in some of the rivet placements to make it look nice, especially as it got close to the end of a long line of rivets. For example, if you're spacing them 1/4" apart and there's only 7/8" left to the corner where there's already a rivet. It's better to slightly expand, or compress the rivet spacing so that it comes out pleasing rather than having the last one in the row only be 1/8" from the existing corner rivet. Beautiful job as always, Quinn. Well done!
That’s why I do the paper pattern- the spacing is slightly different on each edge as needed to look good. I’ll cover that in more detail in the video where I do the real panels
I took a knife making class at a local university and they did tempering in a toaster oven. Set for 450-500F until the piece reached the temp, pull and let cool. The instructor said it was a pretty fool proof method for smaller pieces and only took about 5-10 minutes.
Notch the fence. Make it have a shape like ||_____|| with the || being the wings for the fence bolts. then some amount of metal at the front, to be the actual fence, then cut everything else out, so you can clamp right to the bottom plate without having to remake the bottom plate. You could also make new slots on the top fence closer together, and cut the edges off, to give clamping room. But that would require 2 new slots, 2 new tapped holes, etc. The cutting the middle part out is the fastest/easiest by far
Something you didn't mention about the MIC-6 aluminum plate is that it is stress relieved, which means when you machine it, it will stay flat as there are no internal stresses that would/could otherwise warp the part.
Or, if you are insane like some of us, you can actually rivet your tender. I've always found it amusing that 3/4" & 1" scale modelers always seem to do more detail than 1.6" scale modelers. Then 2.5" modelers make everything to fine detail again. (With exceptions of course)
Well done on the heat treat description. I'm a hobby blacksmith and your color description is what's been taught for centuries. And easily understandable. Well done!
No, tempering is supposed to be done at around 450 F (depending on alloy) for a couple hours (again, depending on alloy). No quenching -- only natural cooling.
@@ilikewaffles3689 1 hour per 1“ thickness is the typical soak time. But we are talking a hobby shop not a tool and die shop. Her description is sufficient for most hobbyists.
also, CNC lathe machinist here. Sometimes I take a picture of what I'm working on so I can then blow it up on my phone to look it over and see what I need to fix instead of fiddling with a magnifying lens and a light
Bought a used Tormach and one of the things with it was the DinoLite USB scope in a Tormach holder. Can move by hand but get a better image mounted in the spindle. Useful little toy.
Great job!! At least this won't or shouldn't be a one-time use tool. I used to be a patrion, but my shop was broken into while I was on vacation. I lost over $30k in tools and electronics. On the bright side of things, your stickers helped identify some of my tools like my mill. Once I get back up and running again, I'll be joining your team again. Love your channel.
Your vidoes inspire me, and bankrupt me at the same time. I am trying to keep up, but wow, machining is expensive. I am in Ontario, what province are you in now? I love your videos and have learned so much from you - thank you!
I have a number of pin punches with replaceable pins in them. Perhaps, if the current one breaks, you might consider making one with interchangeable pins. Make the pins out of all those broken drill bits that most of us keep for no good reason... Another great video BTY.
I was curious what temperature straw was on O1 steel (e.g. if I want to temper in a toaster oven), so I searched on "o1 straw color." Now I know everything I could have ever wanted on what my urine color means. Thanks, internet!
I don't understand why you didn't use the obvious solution for the spacing and create an arduino/ai driven kitty-cat android called kittywompus with voice control that would hold the piece with its retractable claws and slide it over the amount specified by voice command. It would have been a lot quicker and would have allowed you to use different types of curves to vary the spacing as you desired.
Great video, I expect I'll be using the hardening advice on plane irons in the future. Also out of curiosity why aren't you using the zero flute chamfers any more?
Jacobs Chuck. You'd have to build a holder to use the Arbor press- or build it in to the jig. Drill press is much simpler since you don't need much force to make a shallow impression in annealed brass.
Why do tender backs slope like this? UK tenders are not sloped towards the rear as that’s where the water is held with coal closest to the engine for fuelling.
Quinn! Look out! Your Dimples are showing! At the beginning, I thought you were making a punch to allow you to quickly and accurately make holes in sheet stock for rivets. Now I see that this is actually a dimpling tool. More tool me😊
Excellent work! Would there be value to having a through hole on the die to clear out any sort of spalling or unwanted material? Also, and as you said, heat treating is a huge topic, twenty years ago I was in a science of materials course and learned that tempering is a function of time and temperature. We were making armor from SAE1050 and using home ovens for tempering. IIRC it was something like doubling the time for every 30 degrees Fahrenheit difference, and we had pretty solid success with multi-hour soaks to get the same hardness as significantly higher temperatures. Again, it's been twenty years, but it might be worth research if you or your viewers needed to temper something in an oven and didn't want to get a commercial oven for a small number of projects. Great job doing it the classic way, though. I only had middling success with a torch (although I was usually working with 0.035" - 0.0625" plate)
Professional tool maker here with everything revolving around heat treating... your original temper was more than likely just fine and it just didn't properly harden the first time. When tempering springs we go for a full blue temper and springs deform and still return to their shape. Light straw is just the starting point and great for retaining fine cutting edges but more likely to chip. Wonderful work all around 😊
Hey Quinn, have you ever heard of using acetone to transfer ink from paper templates to your workpiece? Works just like temporary tattoos and is pretty handy. Used it for engraving a license/registry number on a boat once.
A bit of an overkill suggestion - would it be useful to machine a step at the bottom face of the guide to accept the sheet stock? It may help keep the sheet flat overall and make the process a little less fiddly (nature of working with small parts) Thanks for your vids Quinn, very inspiring stuff.
Very cool idea you have here. I’ve used your method for making small punches and dies, it also took me a few tries to get the temper right. Great result as always!
Since I'm in my little peanut gallery of profound wisdom, I'll say that you should at least add another 2 bolts so that it slides linearly, or just redo how that slides. That should make it more stable when tightening it at the right depth. Also you could have it adjustable with a thumb screw so you can fine tune it and use a cheap pair a digital calipers to locate the rivet locations. You could even clamp the workpiece to the tool and attach the calipers to the tool as well so you have a little mini DRO. Plenty accurate enough for aesthetics but probably easier to get that accurate than messing with paper templates. Once you have it built ofc lol
What timing !! I was looking online to get an idea on how to duplicate rivot impressions for live steam locomotives. Like yours gauge locomotive , my loco is a 3.5 " Atlantic 4-4-2 . So your rivot tool will be scale for your locomotive. You're gonna love running your locomotive. Our club is Richmond Hill Live Steamers . We have a nice Highline for 3.5", 4.75" , and 7.25" on the ground line . * Embossing sure speeds up the look as to using installed rivots in holes . Very Nice Quinn 🙏
…. And a very punchy delivery too…. 😎 Seriously though… what a great instructional video. The heat treating stuff was super interesting. Thanks, Robert
Nice tool and appears to work very well. You might use a piece (or pieces laid side by side if you are working with a larger metal piece) of 3/4" wide (or 1-1/2" wide) masking tape (the better quality automotive stuff) to stick onto the piece and then just use a ruler and a fine marker or pen to mark the hole locations. This way you can visualize the rivet locations to get an idea of how the end result will look before you start marking the piece. When using a Speedy Stitcher and doing free hand sewing on thick or large pieces of vinyl that won't fit in a sewing machine I often place a piece of masking tape along the edge of where I want the seam to be and just mark the locations on the masking tape where I want the needle to penetrate the vinyl to get evenly spaced straight line stitching - sew right at the edge of the masking tape so I don't go through the tape. Once you have the rivets created the masking tape will peel off nicely for minimum clean up of the piece afterwards. You might also use label paper to print the pattern using the computer and then just peel the back off and stick it onto the piece - might be a bit more work to clean up afterwards though. You might also make a long narrow flat piece of metal to attach to the bottom piece of the tool on the backside and then clamp to the narrow piece at the outer edges to secure it to the drill press platform. Just a couple of thoughts / suggestions.
Gauge plate? HUH! Never knew that was a thing. Thanks! 16:05 Give ATF (automatic transmission fluid) a try. I love it. It's made to keep steel from sticking to aluminum. Cheap too. Only a few bucks a quart. 25:19 Have you considered an adjustable height base for your drill press? Being hunched over while doing detail work gets old fast. 26:12 I'd try a wider MDF base for clamping to the drill press table. Mill a pocket for the jig to drop in to. I've found those line lasers to be really handy on a drill press. Just use scotch tape (the translucent stuff) on metal to make the line easily visible. You can also put scotch tape over a hole to see the laser line.
Only thing I'd add with heat treating is normalize your material at minimum. Annealing would be great, but 3 normalizing cycles (heat to around transformation temp and let air-cool completely for those unfamiliar). For super critical parts, this should be done before machining. It doesn't ever hurt anything, but not doing it definitely can. Im slightly assuming when she mentioned the material ships softened, a normalization has been done; however, "softened" and "dead soft" are actual classifications of materials. "Dead soft" usually refers to an actual annealment, and "softened" usually just means it was air-cooled after forming the stock at the mill. "Softened" materials can and will shift since the inner stresses haven't been completely eliminated, though have been reduced. Quenching will show these as warping.
When I was working in tooling, we used a LOT of aluminum for tool structure as most of the stuff we built was not all that critical. What we used to machine aluminum was just plain kerosene. It worked really well and it's a lot cheaper than "store-bought".
12:11 is that Yahtzee sign new? I don't recall seeing it before. I assume it's from a fan. (For the record, I don't like treating artists I follow like trained monkeys and as such I never expect Quinn to "say the line")
I suppose the paper pattern would also replicate the original process better. They wouldn't have used a complex jig or a DRO, I think they would have marked the holes out and drilled them in a way that would have resulted in similar error to your paper templates.
Hey Quinn, awesome video as always. I dunno if it would work but what if you milled or etched a scale on the backing plate so you would have the ability to space the rivets without the paper template or holding on to a separate scale?
That description of heat treating was pretty much all you need to know. The only thing I have to add is something that will not really come up if you are machining. If the piece of steel has been shaped through bending or deforming, like in blacksmithing, then it is best to normalize it before the hardening by heating it to hardening temperature and letting it cool slowly. This releases built up stress in the metal. I think this is also less important the smaller the piece is, so yeah, of limited use for the stuff you are doing. Cool video, and a nice tool.
Maybe you could improve the clamping by making the upper fence piece narrower. By milling new slots next to the current ones and cutting pieces away from the end to the current slots. You can do it in a way that keeps the fence surface intact and looking that it was the intended design all along..
I’ve torch heat treated a LOT of shop built tooling. Then I built a PID controlled heat treating oven using a toaster oven from the thrift shop. Now when I make tooling, I still use the torch because it’s 100 times faster. 😂
EXACTLY. You COULD do it with ovens and thermometers and such, but a torch and the Mk I eyeball do it fast and perfectly serviceably; especially for one-offs, and when you're not making a ton of hardened tooling. Shop space is often at a premium, so extra things like heat-treat ovens that you use once in a blue moon aren't necessarily a great idea ;)
Great discussion of heat treating. Nice balance of the thorough research we know Quinn will do followed by a reasonable, practical process we can actually do in the home shop. Bravo!
For the life of me I saw one of these videos where you made a fixture and made a new Gib and I can not find it and like and idiot I did not book mark it. Help it was a great video.
I think it’d be awesome to see your take on re-doing the depth stop on the drill press. Those are maddening.
That punch line was to die for, right?
boooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo
just kidding the joke was brilliant😁
Such comments are only formed under the pressure of seeking to leave a lasting impression. 😁
@@oldfarthacks I think I might like that response better than the OP. They're both funny, though. :)
I got an idea! If you aneal a piece of shimstock, use this tool to punch a rivet in that, and bend it to the right shape and harden it again, you might end up with a nice little spring that can help with spacing the rivets out correctly by acting as a little springy dimple index that registers in the previous dimple
Beautiful rivet embossing jig, Quinn! You really out do yourself with these jigs! I just clamped a few pieces of metal together for the fence and base, but you really go all out! Very nice.
One thing I do remember about that rivet embossing operation is that the 'fixed' spacing doesn't always work out across the width of the sheet. I had to make some adjustments in some of the rivet placements to make it look nice, especially as it got close to the end of a long line of rivets. For example, if you're spacing them 1/4" apart and there's only 7/8" left to the corner where there's already a rivet. It's better to slightly expand, or compress the rivet spacing so that it comes out pleasing rather than having the last one in the row only be 1/8" from the existing corner rivet.
Beautiful job as always, Quinn. Well done!
That’s why I do the paper pattern- the spacing is slightly different on each edge as needed to look good. I’ll cover that in more detail in the video where I do the real panels
@@Blondihackssounds like an excellent method of making sure the rivets are all spaced appropriately! Can't wait to see it 😃
I do love a bit of differential tempering.
Quality Ralph Wiggum reference there.👏
I took a knife making class at a local university and they did tempering in a toaster oven. Set for 450-500F until the piece reached the temp, pull and let cool. The instructor said it was a pretty fool proof method for smaller pieces and only took about 5-10 minutes.
use a drilbit shank as the riveting tool. easy to replace when it breaks or bend and already hardend.
Nice! And, loved your opening humor!!
12:17 - what a great Yahtzee sign!!! 😁
Hello Quin, I am really happy to see you using the tangential machining tool, good work. Cheers from me. 😷👍👍👍👍👍
Looks like it's going to work fine. Another great video Quinn!
Lovely. That's going to look great on your model.
Great tool. BTW looking forward to a video about that pesky depth stop as I have the same type on my drill press. 👍
Notch the fence. Make it have a shape like ||_____|| with the || being the wings for the fence bolts. then some amount of metal at the front, to be the actual fence, then cut everything else out, so you can clamp right to the bottom plate without having to remake the bottom plate. You could also make new slots on the top fence closer together, and cut the edges off, to give clamping room. But that would require 2 new slots, 2 new tapped holes, etc. The cutting the middle part out is the fastest/easiest by far
Yay!! It's Blondihacks time!!!
LoL yes, here's my tempering advice. Use your kitchen oven. It works pretty well 😁
you beat them to the punch!
Why did the rivet go to therapy? It had attachment issues
Bloody marvelous!
Something you didn't mention about the MIC-6 aluminum plate is that it is stress relieved, which means when you machine it, it will stay flat as there are no internal stresses that would/could otherwise warp the part.
Great look.
What about a horizontal centre line through the die so it is easy to measure the fence distance when the punch is engaged in the hole?
Would your float lock vise hold it in place?
Or, if you are insane like some of us, you can actually rivet your tender. I've always found it amusing that 3/4" & 1" scale modelers always seem to do more detail than 1.6" scale modelers. Then 2.5" modelers make everything to fine detail again. (With exceptions of course)
🐸 Rivet, rivet
Very well done, Quinn. I always enjoy seeing you make incremental improvements to your fixtures and procedures.
Well done on the heat treat description. I'm a hobby blacksmith and your color description is what's been taught for centuries. And easily understandable. Well done!
@@markfergerson2145 ouch. :) Hopefully it got worked out, sooner or later. :)
No, tempering is supposed to be done at around 450 F (depending on alloy) for a couple hours (again, depending on alloy). No quenching -- only natural cooling.
@@ilikewaffles3689 1 hour per 1“ thickness is the typical soak time. But we are talking a hobby shop not a tool and die shop. Her description is sufficient for most hobbyists.
Ahh a video from Quinn, I'm already riveted...let's get it watched 🙂
The minute I started watching I knew this was going to make an impression.
I like the idea of the die being replaceable since it allows for different die forms to be inserted if the desired shape doesn't work as you'd like.
Yep, totally agree with that.
Totally- making tools adaptable for different needs is SO useful.
also, CNC lathe machinist here. Sometimes I take a picture of what I'm working on so I can then blow it up on my phone to look it over and see what I need to fix instead of fiddling with a magnifying lens and a light
Bought a used Tormach and one of the things with it was the DinoLite USB scope in a Tormach holder. Can move by hand but get a better image mounted in the spindle. Useful little toy.
That's VERY smort. I have to do that.
Well done for staying away from precision woodworking this week 😂
Great job!! At least this won't or shouldn't be a one-time use tool.
I used to be a patrion, but my shop was broken into while I was on vacation. I lost over $30k in tools and electronics. On the bright side of things, your stickers helped identify some of my tools like my mill. Once I get back up and running again, I'll be joining your team again. Love your channel.
Oh that sucks SO much- great that Blondihacks stickers are more than just for prestige LOL
Effin' effers should be effed! Seems like you are the one in need of patreons now... All the best for your recovery.
Did making a mistake with heat-treatment make you bad-tempered?
I'll get my (vintage) coat.
Your vidoes inspire me, and bankrupt me at the same time. I am trying to keep up, but wow, machining is expensive. I am in Ontario, what province are you in now? I love your videos and have learned so much from you - thank you!
My takeaway is: Clean the annealed brass before stamping.
Ya! Well.. you may have bent your wookie but my cats breathe smells like cat food!!!!
I have a number of pin punches with replaceable pins in them. Perhaps, if the current one breaks, you might consider making one with interchangeable pins. Make the pins out of all those broken drill bits that most of us keep for no good reason...
Another great video BTY.
That was a great re-use idea!
I made a couple of knurled nuts for my table top drill press quill stop and they have been a big improvement.
I love that you’ve used the word “detritus” in the last three videos(or more?). Outstanding work, as always!
I was curious what temperature straw was on O1 steel (e.g. if I want to temper in a toaster oven), so I searched on "o1 straw color." Now I know everything I could have ever wanted on what my urine color means. Thanks, internet!
Enjoyable video, but TBH I was looking forward to you machining hundreds of tiny little rivets.
I was waiting for the ", because shut up! That's why" and you had a real reason, and I learned two things at the same time. Thank you Quin.
I don't understand why you didn't use the obvious solution for the spacing and create an arduino/ai driven kitty-cat android called kittywompus with voice control that would hold the piece with its retractable claws and slide it over the amount specified by voice command. It would have been a lot quicker and would have allowed you to use different types of curves to vary the spacing as you desired.
You got me at "I bent my Wookiee"
It wasn't really riveting was it? More depressing rather than anything else.
Sorry :) I couldn't resist.
Great video, I expect I'll be using the hardening advice on plane irons in the future. Also out of curiosity why aren't you using the zero flute chamfers any more?
That works very nicely.
Great detail for the panels.
Neatly done as usual!
Thanks, and Meow to Sprocket.
22:37 This is the riveting content that we've all come to enjoy.
Can I ask why use the drill press and not your Arbor press for this?
Jacobs Chuck. You'd have to build a holder to use the Arbor press- or build it in to the jig. Drill press is much simpler since you don't need much force to make a shallow impression in annealed brass.
Why do tender backs slope like this? UK tenders are not sloped towards the rear as that’s where the water is held with coal closest to the engine for fuelling.
Neat tool! I’d be interested in seeing a depth stop upgrade, the one on my drill press is sloppy as, well, something really sloppy
Quinn! Look out! Your Dimples are showing!
At the beginning, I thought you were making a punch to allow you to quickly and accurately make holes in sheet stock for rivets. Now I see that this is actually a dimpling tool. More tool me😊
Just wondering if making the tooling to use on an arbor press would be a better solution.
Excellent work! Would there be value to having a through hole on the die to clear out any sort of spalling or unwanted material?
Also, and as you said, heat treating is a huge topic, twenty years ago I was in a science of materials course and learned that tempering is a function of time and temperature. We were making armor from SAE1050 and using home ovens for tempering. IIRC it was something like doubling the time for every 30 degrees Fahrenheit difference, and we had pretty solid success with multi-hour soaks to get the same hardness as significantly higher temperatures.
Again, it's been twenty years, but it might be worth research if you or your viewers needed to temper something in an oven and didn't want to get a commercial oven for a small number of projects. Great job doing it the classic way, though. I only had middling success with a torch (although I was usually working with 0.035" - 0.0625" plate)
“I bent my wookie”
A+ Simpsons ref 😂
Professional tool maker here with everything revolving around heat treating... your original temper was more than likely just fine and it just didn't properly harden the first time. When tempering springs we go for a full blue temper and springs deform and still return to their shape. Light straw is just the starting point and great for retaining fine cutting edges but more likely to chip. Wonderful work all around 😊
Ah, I wondered about that myself- good to hear it from someone who really knows what they're talking about ;)
Very nice! I wonder if a dowel pin Loctited into a holder would have worked for the punch.
What happened to your right index finger? 😢
You should be very PROUD of what you accomplished in this video!
ugh, this comment certainly sticks out.
Yes she should, there is nothing depressing here, all looking up and no down side.
Hey Quinn, have you ever heard of using acetone to transfer ink from paper templates to your workpiece? Works just like temporary tattoos and is pretty handy. Used it for engraving a license/registry number on a boat once.
I look forward to your videos every week.
As someone with a temper problem, I agree.
It is very easy to over temper.
What helped me is anger management classes...
😂
Would it be a good idea to send a punch to anger management classes? They sound incompatible LOL
A bit of an overkill suggestion - would it be useful to machine a step at the bottom face of the guide to accept the sheet stock? It may help keep the sheet flat overall and make the process a little less fiddly (nature of working with small parts)
Thanks for your vids Quinn, very inspiring stuff.
The next thing is to become a rivet counter to quite non model builders that critic that accuracy models by counting the number of rivets.
Very cool idea you have here. I’ve used your method for making small punches and dies, it also took me a few tries to get the temper right. Great result as always!
Since I'm in my little peanut gallery of profound wisdom, I'll say that you should at least add another 2 bolts so that it slides linearly, or just redo how that slides. That should make it more stable when tightening it at the right depth. Also you could have it adjustable with a thumb screw so you can fine tune it and use a cheap pair a digital calipers to locate the rivet locations. You could even clamp the workpiece to the tool and attach the calipers to the tool as well so you have a little mini DRO. Plenty accurate enough for aesthetics but probably easier to get that accurate than messing with paper templates. Once you have it built ofc lol
What timing !!
I was looking online to get an idea on how to duplicate rivot impressions for live steam locomotives.
Like yours gauge locomotive , my loco is a 3.5 " Atlantic 4-4-2 . So your rivot tool will be scale for your locomotive.
You're gonna love running your locomotive.
Our club is Richmond Hill Live Steamers . We have a nice Highline for 3.5", 4.75" , and 7.25" on the ground line .
* Embossing sure speeds up the look as to using installed rivots in holes .
Very Nice Quinn 🙏
…. And a very punchy delivery too….
😎
Seriously though… what a great instructional video. The heat treating stuff was super interesting.
Thanks,
Robert
Nice tool and appears to work very well. You might use a piece (or pieces laid side by side if you are working with a larger metal piece) of 3/4" wide (or 1-1/2" wide) masking tape (the better quality automotive stuff) to stick onto the piece and then just use a ruler and a fine marker or pen to mark the hole locations. This way you can visualize the rivet locations to get an idea of how the end result will look before you start marking the piece. When using a Speedy Stitcher and doing free hand sewing on thick or large pieces of vinyl that won't fit in a sewing machine I often place a piece of masking tape along the edge of where I want the seam to be and just mark the locations on the masking tape where I want the needle to penetrate the vinyl to get evenly spaced straight line stitching - sew right at the edge of the masking tape so I don't go through the tape. Once you have the rivets created the masking tape will peel off nicely for minimum clean up of the piece afterwards. You might also use label paper to print the pattern using the computer and then just peel the back off and stick it onto the piece - might be a bit more work to clean up afterwards though. You might also make a long narrow flat piece of metal to attach to the bottom piece of the tool on the backside and then clamp to the narrow piece at the outer edges to secure it to the drill press platform. Just a couple of thoughts / suggestions.
Gauge plate? HUH! Never knew that was a thing. Thanks!
16:05 Give ATF (automatic transmission fluid) a try. I love it. It's made to keep steel from sticking to aluminum. Cheap too. Only a few bucks a quart.
25:19 Have you considered an adjustable height base for your drill press? Being hunched over while doing detail work gets old fast.
26:12 I'd try a wider MDF base for clamping to the drill press table. Mill a pocket for the jig to drop in to.
I've found those line lasers to be really handy on a drill press. Just use scotch tape (the translucent stuff) on metal to make the line easily visible.
You can also put scotch tape over a hole to see the laser line.
Only thing I'd add with heat treating is normalize your material at minimum. Annealing would be great, but 3 normalizing cycles (heat to around transformation temp and let air-cool completely for those unfamiliar). For super critical parts, this should be done before machining. It doesn't ever hurt anything, but not doing it definitely can.
Im slightly assuming when she mentioned the material ships softened, a normalization has been done; however, "softened" and "dead soft" are actual classifications of materials. "Dead soft" usually refers to an actual annealment, and "softened" usually just means it was air-cooled after forming the stock at the mill.
"Softened" materials can and will shift since the inner stresses haven't been completely eliminated, though have been reduced. Quenching will show these as warping.
When I was working in tooling, we used a LOT of aluminum for tool structure as most of the stuff we built was not all that critical. What we used to machine aluminum was just plain kerosene. It worked really well and it's a lot cheaper than "store-bought".
12:11 is that Yahtzee sign new? I don't recall seeing it before. I assume it's from a fan.
(For the record, I don't like treating artists I follow like trained monkeys and as such I never expect Quinn to "say the line")
Hello from Brazil, I just wanna say that you are awesome! Thanks for all the videos! I'm a real fan of your work!
I suppose the paper pattern would also replicate the original process better. They wouldn't have used a complex jig or a DRO, I think they would have marked the holes out and drilled them in a way that would have resulted in similar error to your paper templates.
Hahaha my dumb dyslexia read "lets make an embarrassing tool".
Jokes aside....this is super interesting
I am not a metal worker but I love watching your work!
Hey Quinn, awesome video as always. I dunno if it would work but what if you milled or etched a scale on the backing plate so you would have the ability to space the rivets without the paper template or holding on to a separate scale?
That description of heat treating was pretty much all you need to know. The only thing I have to add is something that will not really come up if you are machining. If the piece of steel has been shaped through bending or deforming, like in blacksmithing, then it is best to normalize it before the hardening by heating it to hardening temperature and letting it cool slowly. This releases built up stress in the metal. I think this is also less important the smaller the piece is, so yeah, of limited use for the stuff you are doing. Cool video, and a nice tool.
Maybe you could improve the clamping by making the upper fence piece narrower. By milling new slots next to the current ones and cutting pieces away from the end to the current slots. You can do it in a way that keeps the fence surface intact and looking that it was the intended design all along..
I’ve torch heat treated a LOT of shop built tooling. Then I built a PID controlled heat treating oven using a toaster oven from the thrift shop.
Now when I make tooling, I still use the torch because it’s 100 times faster. 😂
EXACTLY. You COULD do it with ovens and thermometers and such, but a torch and the Mk I eyeball do it fast and perfectly serviceably; especially for one-offs, and when you're not making a ton of hardened tooling. Shop space is often at a premium, so extra things like heat-treat ovens that you use once in a blue moon aren't necessarily a great idea ;)
Id love to see your improved depth stop. i knocked out a really bad 3d printed bracket in fusion 360 and its bendy!
I'm curious if you considered using the ground shoulder bolts or a set of pins to keep the fence square and speed up adjustments?
Thanks Quinn
Could you turn a shallow shoulder on the punch to catch the tip of the chuck?
Great discussion of heat treating. Nice balance of the thorough research we know Quinn will do followed by a reasonable, practical process we can actually do in the home shop. Bravo!
For the life of me I saw one of these videos where you made a fixture and made a new Gib and I can not find it and like and idiot I did not book mark it. Help it was a great video.
Could you show how you made your bandsaw setup? I seen the one you put in the vise, but this is a new setup. 12:03
"I bent my wookie" - I understood that reference!
Could you put the baseplate of the tool in the float lock vise? I guess it might be at an angle.
What kind of lathe is that? That's the size I have been looking for.
I love your shit girl😂
I learned a new word: cattywampus. Have to start to use it conversations
Riveting. Classic.
I now have a much deeper appreciation for my NWSL riveting tool. Thanks for explain more on heat treating.
Another handy tool for the shop, thanks for sharing Cheers.
Maybe cut out area at the back so you can clamp from the bottom with a screw?
Future Quinn is pretty smart, you should listen to her more often