Despite what youtube thinks 🙄 I do not play or make guitars... but I have decided to become a Rockstar anyway 🎉😁. Quinn I have learnt a lot from you and hopefully will continue to do so. Only fair that I help you to get an arbor press 😁🍺
I regularly ask my apprentices "What's the difference between a craftsman and a perfectionist?" The craftsman understands tolerances. Thanks for underscoring the point. We strive for perfection but accept results that are within tolerance.
Quinn, just discovered your channel and learning a lot. I'm a retired welder learning to machine. A technique we used for a press fit is to make the part 1-3 thousands over the hole size depending on the material. Heat the hole side and cool the bolt part. They will go together with no effort and when reaching room temperature they will be very tight, almost welded. thanks for your tips.
Quinn, thanks so much for checking the ego and showing your mistakes and of course, the reason and resolution of them. When you’re new to machining your mistakes are obvious, but figuring out how to correct them is not always so. You are helping immensely in that respect. Thanks again!
Yes, I get sawtooth looking threads, And I have a Chinese lathe *THANK YOU*, I've been avoiding using the compound and just plunging straight in with the cross slide to get properly shaped threads. I love 'You Tube University'. Thank you Quinn, and Kieth & Kieth & Adam & Pete & Steve & Emma & Stan. After a 1000 hours of machining lectures, I feel very well informed-Thanks so much
I used to think so too, but lately I've come to the realization that I'm not smart enough to learn from the mistakes of others, at least not enough to avoid making those mistakes. I watch others mistakes to be more expectant of making my own, so I can then learn from those instead of seeing them as failures. So thanks for showing your boo-boos, Quinn!
Of all the stuff I watch on YT it seems like the machinist channels are the best at teaching and working together. Must be something that lies in matching that draws a certain kind of spirit.
I was every time thinking that I was crazy, and never finding the reason why I had to count the 29,5 degrees backwards, but now I know!! Brazilian lathes are just like the Chinese!!! Thank you for the relief!!!
Great stuff Quin. That explains why all the videos I watch say set the compound to 29.5 and my British Colchester lathes compound is calibrated in the same way yours is.
Both for yourself and for us out here in TV land there is more to be learned by showing screw ups then by showing things that come off without a hitch. Besides. it shows you are all class, Kid. God bless ya. Keep up the good work!
I have 2 Chinese/Taiwanese lathe’s. I took both lathes, set the compounds on their zero, then took a punch and made a new zero point 90 degrees off. It really helps to confirm your angles. Thanks for the video, JB San Diego
It is good to draw such a plan, to give students experience reading such drawings. Time will come when a person learns to use the drawing process to understand the intention. Thank you so much for the videos.
Ideas for future videos in your Mill series: Using an edge finder Using the DRO Different types of tooling Vise types and clamping techniques When to use climb cutting Where to buy tools What to look for when buying a mill (or lathe) Using an indexing table
Awesome vid Quinn, that was a fun project. Now to augment the jacks with an accessory bridge (portable T-slot) to go across the slots (perpendicular) on your mill. The bridge would lock down on the slots after adjustment in the X axis, your jacks can then be placed wherever needed on the Y axis. As always, thanks for sharing, Cheers
Hi Quinn, another great video. I did make such a jack (before I saw your video) I did make a lock nut (knurled) to sit on the top surface of the jack body and it has proven worthwhile, I put a really fine finish on the two mating surfaces and it locks and unlocks very nicely but doesn't move during machining at all. Keep 'em coming, we all enjoy them.
And some risers for when your tired of looking for packing. Thank for showing what happens when you side load a tap. I have done that and didn’t know why my threads were sloppy.
Since we’re airing our dirty washing... I was making 4 dinning room chairs last week , I made 8 lovely, maple, handcrafted, through mortise and tenon, right hand sides.
Made that mistake myself a time or two over the years. 😕 Also hate when i cut 45* in the wrong direction on trim and now its too short to use. Been trimming for years but it still sneaks in there now and again. Lol
A really common tool, yet I have never made one. I really liked your take and the explanation of mistakes was educational. Saw tooth threads, been there done that. I ended up scribing a zero line 90 degrees off of the original and put a label on the manufacturer's line saying - not for threading.
Ms Blondihacks, your presentation is spot on, the safety is excellent, you walk through each stage creating comfort... Nice Job, went to machinist school in the 70's, went another way, have always craved metal mills lathesfoundries, etc... am building new shop lather mill, no foundry... thx
Hi, love your vids, if you get a fishtail gauge and run the thread cutting tool into it it will confirm the tool is set at the right angle to the plane of the shaft.
Put a center drill hole on the anvil of your machinist jack for a ball Bering holder for the times you need an angle in your set up. Great project thanks for sharing.
Also, I needed to make a set of 3 quickly, so I brazed a ball bearing onto a standard hexagon head set screw, centre drilled head. These were used to level a part. Look up science of Kinematics.
Nice little jacks, it’s nice to see someone show there mistakes, we are all humans and we all make stuff ups, that’s just the way it goes, great video and thanks for sharing, ATB Matty
Quinn, love your channel, and can see you know your stuff. I want to comment on the compound angle difference between lathes. It is good to know, but it is better to understand from where the angle is referenced. A lathe has only one axis, it goes through the head stock and the tail stock. So an angle is referenced from that axis, a taper is a good example, or it is referenced from a plane perpendicular to that axis. Threads are a good example of that. Tapered threads are also referenced to a plane perpendicular to the axis and not to the taper. I recently retired after 47 years in industry. Some time as a machinist, some time in Quality Control, but mostly as a design engineer. Too many times I have seen a professional (?) machinist screw up a part because said machinist simply set the angle on the compound that said machinist saw on the print, and did not look to see if the angle on the print was referenced the same as the compound. It is frequently necessary to set the compound at the complementary angle. It is up to the machinist to decide which one is correct.
Always start tap in chuck or morse taper tap driver, in tailstock or mill spindle for alignment and rigidity, even hand taps will power alright to full thread on tap then finish by hand bucking in and out.
In parting as long as there is even a small hole in the centre you can part almost through, then drll the part off. The part will stay neatly on the drill.
Novice lathe user, with a Chinese lathe: Fell for the 30 degrees vs 60 degrees first time I tried to cut thread too! ;) I also managed to get the wrong point on the thread dial a couple of times in my second and third attempts. Fourth attempt worked - would have been MUCH quicker to just stick my die-holder in there and use that, but then what's the challenge in that?
In regard to dishing the bottom of the jack another aspect to consider is that if there is any irregularity in the table or if there is any small shavings, the dished base can bridge a lot of these and sit flat. otherwise any small shaving will cause it to rock. great work. thanks.
Great video! Couple of things that may help you along the way, generally 75% thread engagement is the standard for most tapped holes. I found that out the hard way when I started out and a foreman about chewed my head off. Lol. Secondly both fine and coarse threads (UNC and UNF) use different tap drill sizes, with UNF being larger than UNC. Always remember thread pitch-diameter=tap drill size. For instance your 7/16-20 would go like this. 1”/20=.050, this is your thread pitch. You would then subtract .050 from .4375 and come up with .3875 or a 25/64 drill bit (.3906). I rarely ever use drill charts anymore. Hope this may help you or someone else.
I like the "t-slot nuts". I've got jacks, but never considered a t-nut, despite having needed to several times. Working with castings often requires them in the t-slots, and they can use different tops, including points for rough casting surfaces pushed against. I believe I will make a couple nuts to go with my jacks. Very nicely done, thanks!
I appreciate seeing your speeds and feed rate in real time vs speed up in post. It injects some understanding of how fast things really move which I can then apply myself. I tried emulating TOT and it ended bad. PS...his karate chop metal cutting just hurts. ~P
Thanks, I appreciate that! I do in fact, intentionally always show the machining at “actual speed” so people can get a feel for the pace of it (which can be challenging to keep it from being boring to watch). I was also confused when I first started, from watching a lot of sped-up RUclips. 😁. I haven’t mastered the karate chop yet either- very advanced technique.
The tee bolt. That might just be genius!! Interesting. Generally if I need a Jack tho it's usually at some random location under some weird casting. Be interesting to see if it works. Would certainly be a third hand when setting up sometimes. you rock!
Thx quinn you have helped me solve a problem i have spent many hours on trying to solve. Chinese and American 30 degrees is not the same... Suddently i can turn threads like a pro. I also have a Chinese lathe and everytime i tryed to turn threads they came out looking horrible. Now after you talked about it it as your mistake it is painfully obvius that i should have seen the difference before.
You spoke of using a dull endmill, Doing a bit of research on internet including milling cutter manufacturer pages it seams WE as amature machinists tend to kill our endmills before time. Endmills as we call them tends to let us think they are mainly for using the end of the cutter like a drill bit to cut downwards when in fact they cut better on the side. Acording to lots of manufacturers of endmills they last longer cutting full depth in more passes width wise rather than taking a shallow wider cut. Just look at almost any CNC video where they explain how to work out cutting speeds and feeds for different cutters. The spirals on the cutter are actually cutting edges and spiralling to help remove the chip so its not recut on the next tooth. Its a fascinating subject which i will have to study as i tend to CNC my milling machine in the near future.
Super presentation as always Quinn. Never missing the obvious that is not that obvious. As for instance, what is a machinist's jack actually FOR? A model for others to follow.
3:30, I was stuck in suspense mode bc I thought you said, "... And, once again, I blew up the part". I couldn't find what you did wrong, then realized you blue up the part.
Just found your videos. Very well done and informative. I'm going back to watch the other videos. I'm relearning a lot. Just getting back into matching after a 20 year hiatus.
Quinn, Love your video's. I also agree with you that Joe Pie... Is great. He thinks outside the box and I like that. Keep up the good work. Gary 76-Year-Old Home-Shop-Machinist in North West Arkansas.
I have a handful of sawtooth threaded scraps from every time I go and work at my friends shop who has an import lathe. I never seem to notice that the compound doesn't look right when set up for threading until after a scrap part.
Cool video - have a look at buttress thread, they are non symetrice and take loads well in one direction. I had "fun" figuring out the thread angles on the top (head?) of my model airplane engine...
Thank you! The video was great and touched on a few things I’m struggling with as a hobby machinist. I also really enjoyed the camera angles and the way you explain everything.
Just came across your channel and I'm enjoying it tremendously! Your narrative throughout the entire video and the inclusion of mistakes with the explanations of why and how move your contributions to the top of "must watch" videos! Many so-called male machinist have commented to me over the years that they are working in an industry that very few females have the knowledge or the will to enter. (The PC police will probably come after me now for using the terms male and female. They can cross thread their idiotic ideas for all I care!!) Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing!
I got bit by the Chinese compound angle thing once or twice back in the day too! Be aware it's not just Chinese machines though - my American made Rivett and all of my Hjorths also have zero set perpendicular to the cross feed.
Great video thanks! Just the other day I scrapped the screw part of a Jack I’m making for my bench drill. Single point threading isn’t as easy as y’all make it look 🙃 I’ll have to look in to Joe’s technique.
Blondihacks well your basics series has been invaluable to me so I definitely look forward to it. Until then I’ll continue to learn from my failure as there are few better teachers than that.
So nice to see you talk about the mistake with the compound and the 60 degree showing on the compound. I did this exact thing for the first few threading attempts and got so frustrated not seeing why it wasn't working. When I did work it out I thought it was just me geting the wrong end of the stick, I didn't know there were differences in zero position between lathes. Also do you use something like WD40 or oil after the cold blueing?
I haven’t been oiling after cold bluing, although it’s a good idea. The tooling I actively use ends up covered in oil anyway, and I do use Boeshield on stuff I rarely use, to prevent corrosion.
@@Blondihacks i won't @blondihacks to apply her self to the challenge of doing a taper by using tow chunks in her lathe , & cut a taper with out moving her tailstock set up ? . The trick it in the tip. of chuck she use's .
I'm an old guy, new to machining. Quick question that I should know the answer to. Are there any practices that help in the amount of metal splinters one receives in his fingers when working a project. I have a Logan 820 lathe, and a Wells Index 40H milling machine. By the way, great videos, I love the voice over. Really helps the viewer on the paying attention part. Great job. I found your videos because of the parts you made for Keith Rucker.
Awesome project. One off topic question, I noticed you had a little rig you added to your gear set (I'm assuming to change the feed direction). Do you have a video for this? I have an "economy 8 x 16 chinese lathe and have yet to figure how to feed left to right while threading
Hmmm, not sure what you mean there? It’s all factory in the change gears. My lathe does have a reverse power feed, but you don’t actually need it for right-to-left threading of right-hand threads.
What is a typical minimum height for the jack and how to determine that height? And isn't good to have a way to lock the height? i. e. so it wouldn't slowly 'wind' down from vibration? Or does fine thread make that unlikely? Did you consider just tapping the Tee and then loctiting the stud into it?
Showing the mistakes, causes, and remedies make this video valuable for hobby machinists. Until we learn to make the stars align in our favor by learning all these seemingly insignificant details, hobby machining can be very difficult/frustrating. However, once the small details are tended to, hobby machining becomes as simple and rewarding as Joe Pi, Abom79, and others make it appear. Thank you for the slower pace and pointing out the mistakes. BTW, threading away from the chuck does indeed take away the drama!!
"black rust" (cold blue) is corrosion, just like "red rust", except one has one less oxygen atom. The main difference is that "red rust" changes size when it forms, so it flakes off and exposes fresh metal to start rusting again. If you coat the part with "black rust", it greatly inhibits "red rust", with the side benefit of its "micro-porous" texture being great at retaining additional protection in the form of oil.
Here's a Toolmaker tip: Do not use the chuck key to turn the chuck as you did to do tapping. ( to remove a chuck on a lathe with a threaded spindle ) use a adjustable wrench on the jaws of the chuck to turn it for tapping or chuck removal.
Whenever you cold blue anything, rub it in penetrating oil like WD-40. It helps with darkening the blueing and also soaks into the material with the blueing and further prevents rusting!
I've never cut a thread on a lathe and actually, I don't even own one but if I messed up a thread like you did, I'd have said I wanted a buttress thread to better take the down-force.
A question: I'm not a machinist (I'm a cabinet make), so please excuse my ignorance. Why does a reamer have several inches of cutting surface on it? Isn't it really only the very first tiny edge that's doing the cutting?
Hi Quinn, Great video I don't have a mill yet but will make the jacks for when I do. What size is your QCTP,.I'm thinking of getting one but not sure of the size. Keep up the good work, Mike
Hey again. I love watching how u guys get the threads corret. So how do u get it where there no movement withing the thread fittings. Does my question make sense? I'm not very good at the terminology. I guess I'm asking about when ur using the jack to hold a piece up. How do u make sure there's no movement side to side with the head of the jack? I guess the threads become very important?? I love the cold blue colour.. It's stunning looking actually6. I never saw tat before. I'm learning new little tips and tricks all the time on channels like urs and others.. Now all I need to get is a nice little mini lathe & a dcent millimg machine. I will be saving money for the next year for those.. The cost of steel bar is crazy here in IRE. I don't know where u find the money for all this stock. LOL Steel is very expensve here atm. I guess u get better prices in the US nd CANADA.. I also watched a video from Inheritance Maching? U might know that channel? He's a bit more anal when it comes to perfection but to me thta's also a good thing. I'm not putting him down. He likes to do things a certain way. He built similar jacks also and the threads gave him issues too. I love that u explained the issues with the threads. Dummies like me ind it hard to understand what would go wrong. Thanks for that. Brilliant job on those Jacks. I will be keeping these videos in my Mchining Playlist on here now. Love the channel. Love the energy u give off. It's always good viewing .. Thanks for the inspiration..
Gotta ask, why a center drill for spotting for drilling instead of a spotting drill? Center drill angle is 60degrees, while the drill bit is more like 118 degrees, and a spotting drill more closely matches the drill bit angle John
When using machinist jacks, is it common practice to indicate a part in the vice before adding the jack? If so wouldn’t it also be a cheap value add to put an indicator zeroed above the Jack point when tightening the jack in place, thus maximizing rigidity?
Hi , I just stumbled upon your video today. It was very good how you stopped and explained everything afterwards (and during the make) - Thank you. So, I've hit that subscribe button and am looking forward to checking out the rest of your work :)
Hey Quinn! I noticed when you were single point cutting threads that the trailing edge of the bit was doing most of the cutting as per the 29.5 degree setting. I mean no criticism when I ask shouldn’t the compound be angled 29.5 degrees the other side of 90 degrees, there for making the leading edge of the bit do the majority of the work? I went back and watched Joe’s video and he was as using an indexable bit so he did not move the compound and fed straight in. I am coming in late to the show so don’t feel obligated to reply. Thanks a bunch!
Quinn first of all you are a very good teacher. Great delivery on the info. How about having some ideas for us beginners that are looking for ways to use the lathe to make some extra money
My Grizzly lathe has that same issue with the degree scale... Thought I was losing my mind the first time I cut threads with it. Meh... Live and learn.
Your comment about the potential uselessness of having a t-bolt for the jack got me thinking... You could perhaps make the base a wee bit larger and drill the t-bolt hole way off-center, making it laterally adjustable while still anchored.
Despite what youtube thinks 🙄 I do not play or make guitars... but I have decided to become a Rockstar anyway 🎉😁. Quinn I have learnt a lot from you and hopefully will continue to do so. Only fair that I help you to get an arbor press 😁🍺
Woohoo! Thank you 😁
and it only took me 2 hours to figure out how 🤦♂️🤣
@@billbaggins Really? You are going to provide her with an Arbor Press?! You are a Saint and a Hero!! Kudos bill!!
@@jlucasound Not quite, but $10 a month will help her on Pareon. Pretty sure they don't offer sainthoods to atheists but cheers 🍺
@@billbaggins Go atheists...
Quinn, you are an very good teacher, have a sense of humor which accelerates the learning, and besides that have a very nice speaking voice.
I regularly ask my apprentices "What's the difference between a craftsman and a perfectionist?" The craftsman understands tolerances. Thanks for underscoring the point. We strive for perfection but accept results that are within tolerance.
Quinn, just discovered your channel and learning a lot. I'm a retired welder learning to machine. A technique we used for a press fit is to make the part 1-3 thousands over the hole size depending on the material. Heat the hole side and cool the bolt part. They will go together with no effort and when reaching room temperature they will be very tight, almost welded. thanks for your tips.
Quinn, thanks so much for checking the ego and showing your mistakes and of course, the reason and resolution of them. When you’re new to machining your mistakes are obvious, but figuring out how to correct them is not always so. You are helping immensely in that respect. Thanks again!
Yes it’s good to see experienced people making mistakes, makes you feel less disheartened when you screw up!
Yes, I get sawtooth looking threads, And I have a Chinese lathe *THANK YOU*, I've been avoiding using the compound and just plunging straight in with the cross slide to get properly shaped threads. I love 'You Tube University'. Thank you Quinn, and Kieth & Kieth & Adam & Pete & Steve & Emma & Stan. After a 1000 hours of machining lectures, I feel very well informed-Thanks so much
Another good one Quinn. The only thing better than learning from your mistakes is learning from someone else's before you make them yourself..
I used to think so too, but lately I've come to the realization that I'm not smart enough to learn from the mistakes of others, at least not enough to avoid making those mistakes. I watch others mistakes to be more expectant of making my own, so I can then learn from those instead of seeing them as failures. So thanks for showing your boo-boos, Quinn!
Of all the stuff I watch on YT it seems like the machinist channels are the best at teaching and working together. Must be something that lies in matching that draws a certain kind of spirit.
I was every time thinking that I was crazy, and never finding the reason why I had to count the 29,5 degrees backwards, but now I know!! Brazilian lathes are just like the Chinese!!! Thank you for the relief!!!
Great stuff Quin. That explains why all the videos I watch say set the compound to 29.5 and my British Colchester lathes compound is calibrated in the same way yours is.
Both for yourself and for us out here in TV land there is more to be learned by showing screw ups then by showing things that come off without a hitch. Besides. it shows you are all class, Kid. God bless ya. Keep up the good work!
I have 2 Chinese/Taiwanese lathe’s. I took both lathes, set the compounds on their zero, then took a punch and made a new zero point 90 degrees off. It really helps to confirm your angles. Thanks for the video, JB San Diego
It is good to draw such a plan, to give students experience reading such drawings. Time will come when a person learns to use the drawing process to understand the intention. Thank you so much for the videos.
Ideas for future videos in your Mill series:
Using an edge finder
Using the DRO
Different types of tooling
Vise types and clamping techniques
When to use climb cutting
Where to buy tools
What to look for when buying a mill (or lathe)
Using an indexing table
Great suggestions, thank you! I’ll add those to the list.
as a retired tin knocker who is teaching himself machining, I find your videos very helpful. Please don't stop and thank you :) (subscribed)
Thanks for the sub! 😁
Awesome vid Quinn, that was a fun project. Now to augment the jacks with an accessory bridge (portable T-slot) to go across the slots (perpendicular) on your mill. The bridge would lock down on the slots after adjustment in the X axis, your jacks can then be placed wherever needed on the Y axis.
As always, thanks for sharing,
Cheers
Oh, great idea! I like that.
Hi Quinn, another great video. I did make such a jack (before I saw your video) I did make a lock nut (knurled) to sit on the top surface of the jack body and it has proven worthwhile, I put a really fine finish on the two mating surfaces and it locks and unlocks very nicely but doesn't move during machining at all. Keep 'em coming, we all enjoy them.
I’ve been using a screw in my 123 blocks as my jacks, or adjustable parallels, but this looks really fun to make. Thanks.
Seeing your mistakes helps relieve some of my anxiety about starting this new hobby. Thank You!
Good tip on using the indicator with the jack, thanks for the video!
Another great video. Thanks for showing the mistakes as well!
And some risers for when your tired of looking for packing. Thank for showing what happens when you side load a tap. I have done that and didn’t know why my threads were sloppy.
Since we’re airing our dirty washing...
I was making 4 dinning room chairs last week , I made 8 lovely, maple, handcrafted, through mortise and tenon, right hand sides.
😂 I know that feeling
Not a mistake. Just a good start on the next 4!
Made that mistake myself a time or two over the years. 😕 Also hate when i cut 45* in the wrong direction on trim and now its too short to use. Been trimming for years but it still sneaks in there now and again. Lol
A really common tool, yet I have never made one. I really liked your take and the explanation of mistakes was educational. Saw tooth threads, been there done that. I ended up scribing a zero line 90 degrees off of the original and put a label on the manufacturer's line saying - not for threading.
Joe Pi's threading method is really great!
Great video Quinn. A very useful tool. I liked the demonstration with the test indicator reading the deflection while putting force with the Jack.
Ms Blondihacks, your presentation is spot on, the safety is excellent, you walk through each stage creating comfort... Nice Job, went to machinist school in the 70's, went another way, have always craved metal mills lathesfoundries, etc... am building new shop lather mill, no foundry... thx
Good demonstration skills followed by clear explanations of what occurred.
Hi, love your vids, if you get a fishtail gauge and run the thread cutting tool into it it will confirm the tool is set at the right angle to the plane of the shaft.
Put a center drill hole on the anvil of your machinist jack for a ball Bering holder for the times you need an angle in your set up. Great project thanks for sharing.
That’s a great idea!
And of course nothing stops you from making several different anvils for your jacks!
Also, I needed to make a set of 3 quickly, so I brazed a ball bearing onto a standard hexagon head set screw, centre drilled head. These were used to level a part. Look up science of Kinematics.
Thanks for getting back to me so quickly. Stay well, Regards Mike
Nice little jacks, it’s nice to see someone show there mistakes, we are all humans and we all make stuff ups, that’s just the way it goes, great video and thanks for sharing, ATB Matty
Quinn, love your channel, and can see you know your stuff. I want to comment on the compound angle difference between lathes. It is good to know, but it is better to understand from where the angle is referenced. A lathe has only one axis, it goes through the head stock and the tail stock. So an angle is referenced from that axis, a taper is a good example, or it is referenced from a plane perpendicular to that axis. Threads are a good example of that. Tapered threads are also referenced to a plane perpendicular to the axis and not to the taper. I recently retired after 47 years in industry. Some time as a machinist, some time in Quality Control, but mostly as a design engineer. Too many times I have seen a professional (?) machinist screw up a part because said machinist simply set the angle on the compound that said machinist saw on the print, and did not look to see if the angle on the print was referenced the same as the compound. It is frequently necessary to set the compound at the complementary angle. It is up to the machinist to decide which one is correct.
Once again, Blondi knocks it out of the park and teaches me yet another new thing! Thank you, Quinn!!!
Always start tap in chuck or morse taper tap driver, in tailstock or mill spindle for alignment and rigidity, even hand taps will power alright to full thread on tap then finish by hand bucking in and out.
In parting as long as there is even a small hole in the centre you can part almost through, then drll the part off. The part will stay neatly on the drill.
Novice lathe user, with a Chinese lathe: Fell for the 30 degrees vs 60 degrees first time I tried to cut thread too! ;)
I also managed to get the wrong point on the thread dial a couple of times in my second and third attempts. Fourth attempt worked - would have been MUCH quicker to just stick my die-holder in there and use that, but then what's the challenge in that?
Essential craftsman can wait! It’s blondihacks making machinist jacks!
In regard to dishing the bottom of the jack another aspect to consider is that if there is any irregularity in the table or if there is any small shavings, the dished base can bridge a lot of these and sit flat. otherwise any small shaving will cause it to rock.
great work. thanks.
Great video! Couple of things that may help you along the way, generally 75% thread engagement is the standard for most tapped holes. I found that out the hard way when I started out and a foreman about chewed my head off. Lol. Secondly both fine and coarse threads (UNC and UNF) use different tap drill sizes, with UNF being larger than UNC. Always remember thread pitch-diameter=tap drill size. For instance your 7/16-20 would go like this. 1”/20=.050, this is your thread pitch. You would then subtract .050 from .4375 and come up with .3875 or a 25/64 drill bit (.3906). I rarely ever use drill charts anymore. Hope this may help you or someone else.
I like the "t-slot nuts". I've got jacks, but never considered a t-nut, despite having needed to several times. Working with castings often requires them in the t-slots, and they can use different tops, including points for rough casting surfaces pushed against. I believe I will make a couple nuts to go with my jacks. Very nicely done, thanks!
I appreciate seeing your speeds and feed rate in real time vs speed up in post. It injects some understanding of how fast things really move which I can then apply myself. I tried emulating TOT and it ended bad. PS...his karate chop metal cutting just hurts. ~P
Thanks, I appreciate that! I do in fact, intentionally always show the machining at “actual speed” so people can get a feel for the pace of it (which can be challenging to keep it from being boring to watch). I was also confused when I first started, from watching a lot of sped-up RUclips. 😁. I haven’t mastered the karate chop yet either- very advanced technique.
The tee bolt. That might just be genius!! Interesting. Generally if I need a Jack tho it's usually at some random location under some weird casting. Be interesting to see if it works. Would certainly be a third hand when setting up sometimes. you rock!
Those "sawtooth" threads are used in the punch tooling I work with, because that thread shape can withstand much more load.
Interesting, I didn’t know that! Thanks for sharing!
The great thing about mistakes is they give you an opportunity to get to know yourself, and your thought patterns
Thx quinn you have helped me solve a problem i have spent many hours on trying to solve. Chinese and American 30 degrees is not the same... Suddently i can turn threads like a pro. I also have a Chinese lathe and everytime i tryed to turn threads they came out looking
horrible. Now after you talked about it it as your mistake it is painfully obvius that i should have seen the difference before.
You spoke of using a dull endmill, Doing a bit of research on internet including milling cutter manufacturer pages it seams WE as amature machinists tend to kill our endmills before time. Endmills as we call them tends to let us think they are mainly for using the end of the cutter like a drill bit to cut downwards when in fact they cut better on the side. Acording to lots of manufacturers of endmills they last longer cutting full depth in more passes width wise rather than taking a shallow wider cut. Just look at almost any CNC video where they explain how to work out cutting speeds and feeds for different cutters. The spirals on the cutter are actually cutting edges and spiralling to help remove the chip so its not recut on the next tooth. Its a fascinating subject which i will have to study as i tend to CNC my milling machine in the near future.
Super presentation as always Quinn. Never missing the obvious that is not that obvious. As for instance, what is a machinist's jack actually FOR? A model for others to follow.
3:30, I was stuck in suspense mode bc I thought you said, "... And, once again, I blew up the part". I couldn't find what you did wrong, then realized you blue up the part.
🤣
Just found your videos. Very well done and informative. I'm going back to watch the other videos.
I'm relearning a lot. Just getting back into matching after a 20 year hiatus.
Excellent! Welcome back to the fold.
Quinn,
Love your video's. I also agree with you that Joe Pie... Is great. He thinks outside the box and I like that. Keep up the good work.
Gary 76-Year-Old Home-Shop-Machinist in North West Arkansas.
I have a handful of sawtooth threaded scraps from every time I go and work at my friends shop who has an import lathe. I never seem to notice that the compound doesn't look right when set up for threading until after a scrap part.
Thanks for showing us your failures and mistakes. We learn more from that than the “ I do everything perfect every time” RUclips people. 😁
Cool video - have a look at buttress thread, they are non symetrice and take loads well in one direction. I had "fun" figuring out the thread angles on the top (head?) of my model airplane engine...
I definitely read that as "let's make machinists jokes"
Plenty of those here too
Thank you! The video was great and touched on a few things I’m struggling with as a hobby machinist. I also really enjoyed the camera angles and the way you explain everything.
Just came across your channel and I'm enjoying it tremendously! Your narrative throughout the entire video and the inclusion of mistakes with the explanations of why and how move your contributions to the top of "must watch" videos! Many so-called male machinist have commented to me over the years that they are working in an industry that very few females have the knowledge or the will to enter. (The PC police will probably come after me now for using the terms male and female. They can cross thread their idiotic ideas for all I care!!)
Keep up the good work and thanks for sharing!
I got bit by the Chinese compound angle thing once or twice back in the day too! Be aware it's not just Chinese machines though - my American made Rivett and all of my Hjorths also have zero set perpendicular to the cross feed.
Great video thanks! Just the other day I scrapped the screw part of a Jack I’m making for my bench drill. Single point threading isn’t as easy as y’all make it look 🙃 I’ll have to look in to Joe’s technique.
I’ll be doing a Lathe Skills series on single point threading pretty soon, if it helps.
Blondihacks well your basics series has been invaluable to me so I definitely look forward to it. Until then I’ll continue to learn from my failure as there are few better teachers than that.
Great video. Learned a ton (non machinist). Does the jack wander down with vibration if your not able to use a strap clamp?
It was nice to see you using a HSS turning tool. Most people seem go for carbide and never learn to grind a tool. Good for you.
I find HSS works better on small machines like this one.
So nice to see you talk about the mistake with the compound and the 60 degree showing on the compound. I did this exact thing for the first few threading attempts and got so frustrated not seeing why it wasn't working. When I did work it out I thought it was just me geting the wrong end of the stick, I didn't know there were differences in zero position between lathes.
Also do you use something like WD40 or oil after the cold blueing?
I haven’t been oiling after cold bluing, although it’s a good idea. The tooling I actively use ends up covered in oil anyway, and I do use Boeshield on stuff I rarely use, to prevent corrosion.
Great video Quinn. You are becoming quite a good machinist. Great lighting & camera work
Thanks Lyle! Much appreciated. 😀
@@Blondihacks i won't @blondihacks to apply her self to the challenge of doing a taper by using tow chunks in her lathe , & cut a taper with out moving her tailstock set up ? . The trick it in the tip. of chuck she use's .
I'm an old guy, new to machining. Quick question that I should know the answer to. Are there any practices that help in the amount of metal splinters one receives in his fingers when working a project. I have a Logan 820 lathe, and a Wells Index 40H milling machine. By the way, great videos, I love the voice over. Really helps the viewer on the paying attention part. Great job. I found your videos because of the parts you made for Keith Rucker.
Awesome project. One off topic question, I noticed you had a little rig you added to your gear set (I'm assuming to change the feed direction). Do you have a video for this? I have an "economy 8 x 16 chinese lathe and have yet to figure how to feed left to right while threading
Hmmm, not sure what you mean there? It’s all factory in the change gears. My lathe does have a reverse power feed, but you don’t actually need it for right-to-left threading of right-hand threads.
Awesome video! Wouldn't think that the sawtooth threads would work, thanks for showing the mistakes!
What is a typical minimum height for the jack and how to determine that height? And isn't good to have a way to lock the height? i. e. so it wouldn't slowly 'wind' down from vibration? Or does fine thread make that unlikely?
Did you consider just tapping the Tee and then loctiting the stud into it?
Showing the mistakes, causes, and remedies make this video valuable for hobby machinists. Until we learn to make the stars align in our favor by learning all these seemingly insignificant details, hobby machining can be very difficult/frustrating. However, once the small details are tended to, hobby machining becomes as simple and rewarding as Joe Pi, Abom79, and others make it appear. Thank you for the slower pace and pointing out the mistakes. BTW, threading away from the chuck does indeed take away the drama!!
Good project and thanks for the honesty. I learn more from the mistakes than the successes.
Enjoying your education videos Quinn - definitely valuable watching for a beginner!
I like the T-bolt design on these Jacks. I do have a stupid question. Why the bluing, what does this do beyond looking pretty?
It provides some limited corrosion protection (though not as much as paint) for the machined surfaces.
"black rust" (cold blue) is corrosion, just like "red rust", except one has one less oxygen atom. The main difference is that "red rust" changes size when it forms, so it flakes off and exposes fresh metal to start rusting again. If you coat the part with "black rust", it greatly inhibits "red rust", with the side benefit of its "micro-porous" texture being great at retaining additional protection in the form of oil.
Here's a Toolmaker tip: Do not use the chuck key to turn the chuck as you did to do tapping. ( to remove a chuck on a lathe with a threaded spindle ) use a adjustable wrench on the jaws of the chuck to turn it for tapping or chuck removal.
Whenever you cold blue anything, rub it in penetrating oil like WD-40. It helps with darkening the blueing and also soaks into the material with the blueing and further prevents rusting!
I like that soft jaw conversion. Very clever!
Machinist Jacks are like 10mm sockets, you can never have enough; and they are always missing when you need them.
Very nice project.
Haha, so true.
As saying goes....."the person that made no mistakes made nothing"
Adam can wait... it's Blondihacks!
Quinn in the morning and Adam to finish the day, Saturdays have never been better :)
There’s no shame in being second to Adam. Feel free to watch him first. ☺️
@@Blondihacks Referring to his SNS (Saturday night special) :)
@@Blondihacks You are ALL experts. I love machine tools and I am very impressed by the people that can make them do exactly what they want them to do.
I really dont know how you make sense of SAE measurements! Great video!
SAE : strange American engineering
Any pattern for your soft chuck jaws? They look great!
I've never cut a thread on a lathe and actually, I don't even own one but if I messed up a thread like you did, I'd have said I wanted a buttress thread to better take the down-force.
show me how to cut , tapers Beaten centres , with two chook's, 4 & tree jaw chuck's with out moving my talk stoke alignment . ? can you do that ?
A question: I'm not a machinist (I'm a cabinet make), so please excuse my ignorance. Why does a reamer have several inches of cutting surface on it? Isn't it really only the very first tiny edge that's doing the cutting?
you might use a pair of t slot jacks to lift a long spacer block to bridge between the jacks so you can place your work piece between them " anywhere"
Nice stuff, Quinn. I have another machinist to follow. Thanks!
What are the fumes with the cutting fluid, anything dangerous?
Not electricians' grade single phase smoke or Quinn would be catching it to sell to the sparkles in training. ⚡
👍 for the compound info, never heard about that before!
Never knew about your channel but project Egress brought me here. Instant subscribe.
Hi Quinn, Great video I don't have a mill yet but will make the jacks for when I do. What size is your QCTP,.I'm thinking of getting one but not sure of the size. Keep up the good work, Mike
That’s an AXA. Seems to be a good size for the mid-range benchtop lathes in the 9-10” swing range.
Hey again. I love watching how u guys get the threads corret. So how do u get it where there no movement withing the thread fittings. Does my question make sense? I'm not very good at the terminology. I guess I'm asking about when ur using the jack to hold a piece up. How do u make sure there's no movement side to side with the head of the jack? I guess the threads become very important??
I love the cold blue colour.. It's stunning looking actually6. I never saw tat before. I'm learning new little tips and tricks all the time on channels like urs and others.. Now all I need to get is a nice little mini lathe & a dcent millimg machine. I will be saving money for the next year for those..
The cost of steel bar is crazy here in IRE. I don't know where u find the money for all this stock. LOL Steel is very expensve here atm. I guess u get better prices in the US nd CANADA..
I also watched a video from Inheritance Maching? U might know that channel? He's a bit more anal when it comes to perfection but to me thta's also a good thing. I'm not putting him down. He likes to do things a certain way.
He built similar jacks also and the threads gave him issues too. I love that u explained the issues with the threads. Dummies like me ind it hard to understand what would go wrong. Thanks for that. Brilliant job on those Jacks. I will be keeping these videos in my Mchining Playlist on here now. Love the channel. Love the energy u give off. It's always good viewing .. Thanks for the inspiration..
I came here from Abom and ToT. I really like the way you explained your interference tolerances! Subbed!
Nice jack. T bolt idea is cool. I will make few of these.
Gotta ask, why a center drill for spotting for drilling instead of a spotting drill? Center drill angle is 60degrees, while the drill bit is more like 118 degrees, and a spotting drill more closely matches the drill bit angle
John
Speaking personally. I got center drills and I don't have spotting drills on hand. And it works.
When using machinist jacks, is it common practice to indicate a part in the vice before adding the jack? If so wouldn’t it also be a cheap value add to put an indicator zeroed above the Jack point when tightening the jack in place, thus maximizing rigidity?
That’s not common, no. It’s enough to do it by feel. I was just indicating to illustrate what can happen if you get carried away.
Blondihacks but if I wanted to get carried way toward OCD fixturing‽ it would be an okay way of doing that?
Blondihacks aside: are you Quebecois?
Hi , I just stumbled upon your video today. It was very good how you stopped and explained everything afterwards (and during the make) - Thank you.
So, I've hit that subscribe button and am looking forward to checking out the rest of your work :)
Thanks for the sub, and welcome! 😁
Hey Quinn! I noticed when you were single point cutting threads that the trailing edge of the bit was doing most of the cutting as per the 29.5 degree setting. I mean no criticism when I ask shouldn’t the compound be angled 29.5 degrees the other side of 90 degrees, there for making the leading edge of the bit do the majority of the work? I went back and watched Joe’s video and he was as using an indexable bit so he did not move the compound and fed straight in. I am coming in late to the show so don’t feel obligated to reply. Thanks a bunch!
Quinn first of all you are a very good teacher. Great delivery on the info. How about having some ideas for us beginners that are looking for ways to use the lathe to make some extra money
Hello Quinn, love watching your videos. Just a suggestion, a jam nut added to the jack would stabilize quite a bit. Have a great day.
On the tap and clearance drill size chart, I've Always wondered why some threads are %75 and others are %50. How does it work?
My Grizzly lathe has that same issue with the degree scale... Thought I was losing my mind the first time I cut threads with it. Meh... Live and learn.
What Grizzly lathe did you get?
Your comment about the potential uselessness of having a t-bolt for the jack got me thinking... You could perhaps make the base a wee bit larger and drill the t-bolt hole way off-center, making it laterally adjustable while still anchored.