Hey guys. I do apologise for some of the voice over in this, I sound like my 16 year-old self again (and they say backwards time travel is impossible). I'm still recovering from a respiratory illness and still haven't got what little voice over skill/ability back. Cheers
The runout maybe from the cold rolled steel, as it has internal stresses in it from the rolling process. And when you machine the surface the internal stresses then become dominant. CEE had this problem before and he had to normalize the part to relieve the stresses so it would stop self warping .Your design is spot on. As you mentioned about trying to have the cap doing double duty. The most concentric way I have ever seen is by clocking and turning the mandrel in the mills spindle. Great channel
Thanks for the Video. Its not the length, but the amount of information what's interesting in a video. If you are sick, better recover. We won't die, if you skip a week. But again Thanks. I plan a similar project, so good to know about the rigidity problems...
Great result you got there on version 2. 👍 Looks like you got a lot of reach, while still maintaining decent rigidity. Definitely a winner. Hope your health picks up.
A tip that I learned from my Dad almost 50 tears ago: Leave a little material on the end, then by hooding a turning tool in the milling machine vise finish, and true the arbor in the spindle of the mill.
Good tip, I was expecting that to be how the register was to be turned. Another tip is to cut both the flats in one setting using the side of the cutter. I have found in the uk that soft ground morse taper arbors are relatively cheap for what you get to save machining time & bar stock.
@@joemcgarry1106 I disagree. Using the spindel taper of the lathe world be just as good. Why would that taper be less precise than that of the mill? The MT adapter sleeve could introduce an error, but a good quality one doesn't. Finally, the mill actually has more potential sources of error, as head tilt error (1 or 2 axes), Z-axis alignment error (2 axes), etc. Imho the lathe should be the best tool for this.
@@jhbonarius It is about the spindle bearings. You have two hobby level machines, both are likely to have spindle run out. Finish machining the arbor in the machine it is used in will minimize eccentricity problems. In theory you are correct, not so in practice. I would like to point out that he did it as you suggest, and he did have an issue.
Mate you can see the wobble in the tail stock. Pretty sure that things causing a lot of your runout in your new arbor- you can see the drill chuck wobbling @8:02 and you can see the arbour wobbling @9:53 you should really get that sorted, it would greatly improve your accuracy! Love your work and channel btw. Keep it up!
Good video (as always) and nice remake ❤ Hope you're feeling a lot better soon. I've been fighting the tail end of a cough for a few weeks now and I'm ready for it to be gone!
Wishing you a better recovery ❤ Don't know if you knew about it but you can make a tapered angle in the lathe just by moving the centre point of the piece in one end. In that piece you made a thin copper shim in one of the chuck jaws would be enough. I learned it from a 70 years old machinery master in the navy.
Take care of yourself and those around you! Thanks for the insightful Video today, I hope to implement more of your knowledge and experience in my work soon.
Love this channel. it's so cool to watch you improve and make tools to add to your workshop, seeing those previous projects being used then to make more in the future.
Cheers. I was pretty impressed with that too, although it can go south quite quickly. I’ve found medium depth cuts 0.5-1mm , fast rpm and fast feed works best.
Smart design with the insex screw recessed in the cap. I made a similar arbor but made the whole cap like a screw and that takes more height which some day might be in the way.
Nice video. I appreciate the length. Enough for explaining reasons why. My slitting saws also have runout. Only don't understand why you didn't tap with a tap follower in the lathe.
Perfect build!🙂 I'm ashamed to admit, I've never turned a taper that actually had to match another tapered surface. Tried once upon a time, and failed.😁
Believe me I’ve turned some pretty poor tapers. My go to is use layout blue to look for the contact and sand it down till you get contact all long it. Not the quickest method but it works
@@artisanmakes Thank's! Yes, I will do that. It's good to watch you use the layout blue this way (or for scraping a flat surface). Seeing a practice drives the point into your mind!
Nice tool build, just a couple of suggestions; I feel a little uncomfortable seeing the taper bottom right that collar it would be nice to see a gap once it is wholly on the taper. And for my two cents; I think the eccentricity of those slitters randomizes the cut which in effect slightly decreases the possibility of chatter. . Enjoyed the video and hope you get better soon, cheers and thanks!
What size Morse taper was this?? Great video. I recently made 2 slitting saw arbors for two different size slitting saw blases, but mine was to fit into an R-8 milling machine spindle. I've rarely had a slitting saw blade run 100% true, especially thin ones.
I would but tapping m12 is quite awkward to do in the lathe since it requires a bigger tap wrench and more force. If it was M8 or M10 I would have done that
Well done as always! Hope you continue to feel better. If I understood correctly, that’s your Grandad’s shop. Have you ever thought about seeing if he would like to share some of his knowledge on this channel?
The workshop on my grandpas property and we share the workspace but most of the engineering tools are mine or inherited from his grandad. His background is with the Agricultural industry with some engineering knowledge. If it’s SA/NSW wine you want to know about, then he’s the guy to go to.
In the event you chose to make this out of tool steel, what type would you use and why? I would go with D2 or 1095 simply because they are plentiful and relatively cheap.
Question...can you take the cutting blade end and make an adaptor to fit your blades with smaller holes or would you just make a whole other arbor to fit those?
Any reason you didn't tap those holes in the lathe? That would have guaranteed getting them straight and wouldn't have required any additional setup since you drilled them there.
Tapping that m12 hole is quite awkward in the lathe since it requires a lot of force and the larger tap wrench which doesn’t fit in the lathes swing. For the M8 hole, I simply forgot to.
@@artisanmakes something I've done before is put a tap in the tailstock and use the chuck key to turn the chuck when I didn't want to risk power tapping with the shitty mini lathe I have at work.
Been following your channel for a long time, and am about to get a lathe from the place you got yours. One thing that keeps stopping me is trying to find material. Where do you get yours? I think we are in the same state, but I am country, so not many options. Any advice or info would be greatly appreciated. Lastly, could you also tell me where you got your dovetail cutter from? just ebay? H&F don't seem to stock them
If you are in NSW, Edcon is you’re best bet for metal. They have a few locations in. NSW, or they can post it. And the dovetail cutter is off eBay. Nothing special. I’ve had it for 3 years now and it’s still very sharp.
He didn't say "see ya next time" :O good lord! I hope he doesn't expect the respiratory illness to be the end of him! Hope we do, in fact, see ya next time. ;)
The runout you see is likely caused by runout in your lathe tail stock and/or lathe live centers... You definitely have an alignment problem with the tail stock chuck you used to hold the drill you bored the final hole with, I could see the ream you used bouncing side to side as you cut...
Are respiratory infections also acting up in Australia? Here (NL Europe) we've been having many cases of flu, covid, respiratory infections, pneumonia and even pertussis. Get well soon
Australian here. Without looking up statistics (which are not worth much anyway - if we call a GP, they ask us if we have ay flu-like symptoms. If you say yes, they tell you to stay home unless you are really sick, and don't give you an appointment. Thus stats reported by doctors are only a minimal sample), flu, pneumonia and the like are at normal levels. It is mid-summer and high temperatures here, which kills off the spread anyway - at this time of year we just get a few cases from people flying in from Europe or North America. COVID is still adding additional cases, but a very low levels compared to last year, which was low compared the year before. Australia has a low population density, so we have a lot less disease spread than does North America or Europe. We get a free vaccine against pertussis. Every 5 years if I remember right. I've just had my jab. We get free flu shots that are supposed to be specific to whatever is spreading in the northern hemisphere. They seem to work - I've had only a minor sniffle in the last 5 or 6 years. We get COVID shots about every 6 months, of course. Nobody seems to know if they work well or not, but I have had all COVID jabs offered and have never got COVID. COVID has run riot in aged care homes though. It killed my elderly cousin last year. I held her hand while she lay dying, I had no mask on so she could see my face, and I still didn't get COVID.
I do but it suffers from the same issue I have with the steady rest, which is they have used the wrong material for the bearings. They used soft brass which quickly gets shredded to bits under any load.
@artisanmakes I suggest you either change the brass or replace the brass with bearings. I also have a small lathe and modified my follower rest. It gives me better results, especially with any length greater than 1/3 bed length.
I'm here for the talking mate. I don't want silent video of stuff happening. Tell me the story of the part, the decisions, the mistakes, the pondering. It's what I come for.
Stupid Question from an amateur: I got told that a Morse Taper is only good for pressures along its axis and if used for applications that have preasure from the side it can fall out quite often. Whats your experience with that?
Both the commenters and correct, drawbar works well. I’d add it’s the taper that comes standard with the mill, and many Aus/uk mills of this size so I have to work with it. Not the preferred taper but it works well enough.
Hey guys. I do apologise for some of the voice over in this, I sound like my 16 year-old self again (and they say backwards time travel is impossible). I'm still recovering from a respiratory illness and still haven't got what little voice over skill/ability back. Cheers
being a 16 year old is what makes this all the more impressive
Maybe I'm tone deaf but I can't even notice
Hope you feel better soon! :)
get better soon
@@alyl603 They are not 16. Read it again.
You're all good mate didn't notice anything different with the voice. Keep up the quality content 👍
The runout maybe from the cold rolled steel, as it has internal stresses in it from the rolling process. And when you machine the surface the internal stresses then become dominant. CEE had this problem before and he had to normalize the part to relieve the stresses so it would stop self warping .Your design is spot on. As you mentioned about trying to have the cap doing double duty.
The most concentric way I have ever seen is by clocking and turning the mandrel in the mills spindle.
Great channel
Thanks for the Video.
Its not the length, but the amount of information what's interesting in a video.
If you are sick, better recover. We won't die, if you skip a week.
But again Thanks. I plan a similar project, so good to know about the rigidity problems...
I did skip a week last week. I could barely talk then :)
Great result you got there on version 2. 👍
Looks like you got a lot of reach, while still maintaining decent rigidity. Definitely a winner.
Hope your health picks up.
A tip that I learned from my Dad almost 50 tears ago:
Leave a little material on the end, then by hooding a turning tool in the milling machine vise finish, and true the arbor in the spindle of the mill.
Good tip, I was expecting that to be how the register was to be turned. Another tip is to cut both the flats in one setting using the side of the cutter. I have found in the uk that soft ground morse taper arbors are relatively cheap for what you get to save machining time & bar stock.
But what's the actual added value in that? Why would it be better than using the taper in your lathe?
@@jhbonarius Finish machining the registers in the spindle of the machine the arbor is used in has a better chance of running concentrically.
@@joemcgarry1106 I disagree. Using the spindel taper of the lathe world be just as good. Why would that taper be less precise than that of the mill? The MT adapter sleeve could introduce an error, but a good quality one doesn't. Finally, the mill actually has more potential sources of error, as head tilt error (1 or 2 axes), Z-axis alignment error (2 axes), etc.
Imho the lathe should be the best tool for this.
@@jhbonarius It is about the spindle bearings. You have two hobby level machines, both are likely to have spindle run out. Finish machining the arbor in the machine it is used in will minimize eccentricity problems. In theory you are correct, not so in practice. I would like to point out that he did it as you suggest, and he did have an issue.
Very good thanks. No problem with a series of short videos. Get well.
Nice improvement - take care of yourself and get the rest you need.
Get well soon!
Nice job. All my slitting saw blades have runout. Some of the cheap ones have LOTS of runout.
Mate you can see the wobble in the tail stock. Pretty sure that things causing a lot of your runout in your new arbor- you can see the drill chuck wobbling @8:02 and you can see the arbour wobbling @9:53 you should really get that sorted, it would greatly improve your accuracy!
Love your work and channel btw. Keep it up!
Easy to see it when it’s so zoomed in
Nice addition to your toolset. Good recovery from that respiratory illness.
Cheers 👍💪✌
Feel better. We’ll be here when you’re better.
Thanks for this, nice to see you making things and hope you get well soon
hey, well done Artisan. always love seeing your video's pop up. i hope the infection clears up soon!
Very nice job. Thanks for sharing. Cheers Nobby
Good video (as always) and nice remake ❤
Hope you're feeling a lot better soon. I've been fighting the tail end of a cough for a few weeks now and I'm ready for it to be gone!
Wishing you a better recovery ❤
Don't know if you knew about it but you can make a tapered angle in the lathe just by moving the centre point of the piece in one end.
In that piece you made a thin copper shim in one of the chuck jaws would be enough.
I learned it from a 70 years old machinery master in the navy.
Take care of yourself and those around you! Thanks for the insightful Video today, I hope to implement more of your knowledge and experience in my work soon.
Looking good 👍 let’s see the baby in action soon! Get well soon.
Nice job, solid as a rock! Slitting saws like to run at a low RPM with plenty of oil or coolant!
Its pretty amazing how good of a machinist you are! The project is pretty well done about as properly and well executed as I could imagine. Great job!
Thankyou. I’m not a machinist though, just a guy with a lathe in his workshop.
Im going to make one exactly like this for my involute cutters got some lathe gears to make.
I love your videos. Thank you for them
Very helpful- Try to make my own. Thanks
Love this channel. it's so cool to watch you improve and make tools to add to your workshop, seeing those previous projects being used then to make more in the future.
feel better!
Get well soon!!
Great job as always man I hope you get better see you in the next one
Fantastic job! Considering the length of the tool you’ve really done great. Also, onsidering you’re using mild steel, your turned finish is excellent.
Cheers. I was pretty impressed with that too, although it can go south quite quickly. I’ve found medium depth cuts 0.5-1mm , fast rpm and fast feed works best.
Hey, no apologies necessary. Thank You for your dedication and putting out a video for our entertainment. Get well soon!
The video needs to be as long as the video needs to be. Long or short, make the best you can.
Good work! Hope get well soon master
Thanks for making a video despite the lurgy (:
Smart design with the insex screw recessed in the cap. I made a similar arbor but made the whole cap like a screw and that takes more height which some day might be in the way.
Noticed that too. Good thing to consider for other designs as well.
I reckon the little bit of runout in those el cheapo ebay slitting saws gives you a nice bit of clearance in the cut making things go nicely.
Nice video. I appreciate the length. Enough for explaining reasons why. My slitting saws also have runout. Only don't understand why you didn't tap with a tap follower in the lathe.
M12 taps are a little much to tap like that. The larger tap wrench I use doesn’t sit in the lathes swing
I caught the blade being installed backwards. It happens lol. Hope you feel better.
Tell me about it. Always seems to happen so matter how many times I remember not to.
Perfect build!🙂 I'm ashamed to admit, I've never turned a taper that actually had to match another tapered surface. Tried once upon a time, and failed.😁
Believe me I’ve turned some pretty poor tapers. My go to is use layout blue to look for the contact and sand it down till you get contact all long it. Not the quickest method but it works
@@artisanmakes Thank's! Yes, I will do that. It's good to watch you use the layout blue this way (or for scraping a flat surface). Seeing a practice drives the point into your mind!
Thank you for the video.
get well soon buddy.
nice job anyway.
cheers ben.
Thankyou
Nice tool build, just a couple of suggestions; I feel a little uncomfortable seeing the taper bottom right that collar it would be nice to see a gap once it is wholly on the taper. And for my two cents; I think the eccentricity of those slitters randomizes the cut which in effect slightly decreases the possibility of chatter. .
Enjoyed the video and hope you get better soon, cheers and thanks!
What size Morse taper was this?? Great video. I recently made 2 slitting saw arbors for two different size slitting saw blases, but mine was to fit into an R-8 milling machine spindle. I've rarely had a slitting saw blade run 100% true, especially thin ones.
4:50 why wouldn't you tap that while in the lathe to insure squareness?
I would but tapping m12 is quite awkward to do in the lathe since it requires a bigger tap wrench and more force. If it was M8 or M10 I would have done that
get better bud, and great work! i am in the states. if you need help getting anything, let me know.
Good work!!
@9:24 I saw that! (magical hand wave jump cut.) ;)
Well done as always! Hope you continue to feel better. If I understood correctly, that’s your Grandad’s shop. Have you ever thought about seeing if he would like to share some of his knowledge on this channel?
The workshop on my grandpas property and we share the workspace but most of the engineering tools are mine or inherited from his grandad. His background is with the Agricultural industry with some engineering knowledge. If it’s SA/NSW wine you want to know about, then he’s the guy to go to.
Hmm how did you ensure that 2 flats is parallel?
In the event you chose to make this out of tool steel, what type would you use and why? I would go with D2 or 1095 simply because they are plentiful and relatively cheap.
@9:25 😉Magic tool turn around😁
Very nice!
Hi! Great job! How did you achieve such smooth surface finish on 2:22 ?
Question...can you take the cutting blade end and make an adaptor to fit your blades with smaller holes or would you just make a whole other arbor to fit those?
Any reason you didn't tap those holes in the lathe? That would have guaranteed getting them straight and wouldn't have required any additional setup since you drilled them there.
Tapping that m12 hole is quite awkward in the lathe since it requires a lot of force and the larger tap wrench which doesn’t fit in the lathes swing. For the M8 hole, I simply forgot to.
@@artisanmakes something I've done before is put a tap in the tailstock and use the chuck key to turn the chuck when I didn't want to risk power tapping with the shitty mini lathe I have at work.
get better soon.
Keep in mind even a little spindle runout will be magnified by a long tool.
Been following your channel for a long time, and am about to get a lathe from the place you got yours. One thing that keeps stopping me is trying to find material. Where do you get yours? I think we are in the same state, but I am country, so not many options. Any advice or info would be greatly appreciated. Lastly, could you also tell me where you got your dovetail cutter from? just ebay? H&F don't seem to stock them
If you are in NSW, Edcon is you’re best bet for metal. They have a few locations in. NSW, or they can post it. And the dovetail cutter is off eBay. Nothing special. I’ve had it for 3 years now and it’s still very sharp.
dont forget to use a sharp edg tool to remove the radius on the holder or it will not seat downok take care .. tone U.K.
For sure, I got a little lazy here and just undercut the back face, still ends up the same
Nice
He didn't say "see ya next time" :O good lord! I hope he doesn't expect the respiratory illness to be the end of him! Hope we do, in fact, see ya next time. ;)
I kept trying to but my voice kept cracking when I’d say ya. :)
The runout you see is likely caused by runout in your lathe tail stock and/or lathe live centers...
You definitely have an alignment problem with the tail stock chuck you used to hold the drill you bored the final hole with, I could see the ream you used bouncing side to side as you cut...
Good vid thx cob :)
Why is there a cap head screw in the end of your lathe tool holder?
To hold a chip shield, it’s small and doesn’t shop up on the camera
The title is wonky. You’re looking for: an overdue fix to a mistake
I’ve been a machinist for 38 years and I’ve never found a slitting saw that ran true 😂
That’s the excuse I’d like to use :)
Are respiratory infections also acting up in Australia? Here (NL Europe) we've been having many cases of flu, covid, respiratory infections, pneumonia and even pertussis. Get well soon
Australian here. Without looking up statistics (which are not worth much anyway - if we call a GP, they ask us if we have ay flu-like symptoms. If you say yes, they tell you to stay home unless you are really sick, and don't give you an appointment. Thus stats reported by doctors are only a minimal sample), flu, pneumonia and the like are at normal levels. It is mid-summer and high temperatures here, which kills off the spread anyway - at this time of year we just get a few cases from people flying in from Europe or North America. COVID is still adding additional cases, but a very low levels compared to last year, which was low compared the year before.
Australia has a low population density, so we have a lot less disease spread than does North America or Europe.
We get a free vaccine against pertussis. Every 5 years if I remember right. I've just had my jab.
We get free flu shots that are supposed to be specific to whatever is spreading in the northern hemisphere. They seem to work - I've had only a minor sniffle in the last 5 or 6 years. We get COVID shots about every 6 months, of course. Nobody seems to know if they work well or not, but I have had all COVID jabs offered and have never got COVID. COVID has run riot in aged care homes though. It killed my elderly cousin last year. I held her hand while she lay dying, I had no mask on so she could see my face, and I still didn't get COVID.
mint!
Thanks for sharing 👍 Do you have a follower rest?
I do but it suffers from the same issue I have with the steady rest, which is they have used the wrong material for the bearings. They used soft brass which quickly gets shredded to bits under any load.
@artisanmakes I suggest you either change the brass or replace the brass with bearings. I also have a small lathe and modified my follower rest. It gives me better results, especially with any length greater than 1/3 bed length.
I'm here for the talking mate. I don't want silent video of stuff happening. Tell me the story of the part, the decisions, the mistakes, the pondering. It's what I come for.
If it’s mistakes you want we have a lot of them here. Cheers
It just makes a lot of sense
But you didnt design this on the drawing board it was lots of sleepless night or that idea that hit you
For simple stuff I sketch it out on a piece of paper and jump on the lathe. But most of this design was en evolution of the previous ones I’d done.
👍👍
WHAT RPM :;????
Generally I turn at 910 rpm for this size of mild steel with these inserts
I see a stepper motor + arduino setup for your compound in your future… 🇦🇺🇦🇺🇦🇺oioioi
in my experience, there is no such thing like a slitting saw without runout.
i am sure, your arbor is fine.
It almost looks as though your taper is bottoming out on the shoulder rather than riding on the tapered portion.
Like I said in the video, it’s close but there is a gap. Cheers
Stupid Question from an amateur: I got told that a Morse Taper is only good for pressures along its axis and if used for applications that have preasure from the side it can fall out quite often. Whats your experience with that?
That's one of those 'technically true' things, but as MNHobbies said, it has a drawbar to keep it in place.
Thank you both!
Both the commenters and correct, drawbar works well. I’d add it’s the taper that comes standard with the mill, and many Aus/uk mills of this size so I have to work with it. Not the preferred taper but it works well enough.