Range Rover Sport 3.0 TDV6 Engine Part 6 | Rebuild time
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- Опубликовано: 16 окт 2020
- In this episode I clean the block to remove any swarf from the machining process, fit the main bearings and crankshaft, fit the new piston to the con rod for number 1 cylinder, replace the rings on the other 5 pistons and fit all the pistons into the engine.
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Been binge watching your vid's, great work and descriptions, from a 2015 D4 owner with crossed fingers.
Might want to cross your toes as well
I'm really enjoying your videos. I recently bought a Jag XF 3.0 TDV6, so these insights into its construction and foibles are extremely useful. Just have to hope I won't be in there too soon! 🙄
Hello Steve, you are right and I did not look at the video carefully, I was watching it quickly if you put it written like the others, thank you very much, you are a champion
Excellent episode 👍👍 You really know your stuff. Thanks for the small tips as well. I want that broken piston when you hit 1K subscribers. 😎 Can't wait for the next one. Cheers
Maybe I'll polish it up and mount it on a plinth.
Great videos, thanks for your content much appreciated
Brilliant Steve - I couldn’t help notice you went 45 / 48 on one of the piston end caps 🤣 surely this observation is worthy of the damaged piston.
I thought it was more like 38 56
@@pistonbroke36/24/36 😁
Always be healthy May God's blessing be with you...
There is a young girl in a flat nearby and she has one of these. I did not know about the crank issue but felt when I saw her driving it oh dear hope you have lots of money. Looks like I was right. I followed some Germans rebuilding a 3L V6 LR and they put it back in boy with an engine crane, what a job.
They line bored the block after the crank broke. Put a new crank in I felt hmm I hope it does not bust the new crank too. I did up an old Morris Minor engine as a lad and even that had tabs on the con rod bearings. Was very surprised to see no tabs.
Thanks I have a Toyota Camry that needs attention after 330,000 k's and still runs well. The head gasket leaks a bit so I will lift the head sometime and replace the gasket. Will remove the cam cover and see how dirty it is inside and then decide the best way ahead. I live in Australia near Melbourne and I have learnt so much from your videos.
thank you for your knowledge.
Top job 👍
Top job
so the cylinder liners have not been ground, they advised me to buy the larger pistons instead of 84 mm. 84 +0.50 then there is no need to rectify. but the crankshaft is original or are the aftermarket improved ones, made with different alloy, which is what they advised me to buy thanks.
Hi bud, what’s the best place to buy a proper crank shaft for a 306dt ?
is this the same concept as 2016 range rover sport hst ?where i can get a video to how to get the engine out and repair it ? again thank you.
Hello Piston Brake, I am mounting a 3.0 v6 188 kw range rover ls sport engine and I needed the tightening of the connecting rods, the crankshaft and I saw them. I also needed the reference of the tool to place the magnetic sensor. sorry my english is from google translator.
Thank you very much
ruclips.net/video/9l0Q5EehFE4/видео.html
@@pistonbroke thanks piston, can you tell me the torque of the connecting rod?
Hello is this crankshaft tourqe same as 4.4tdv8 or 3.6 tdv8? From construction is the engine similar. Thanks
Hi Steve. May I please ask which model year this TDV6 is? I have a Disco 4 2014 MY with the 3 Litre TDV6. I knew these were complicated engines and also prone to crankcase bearing failures but I have been totally enlightened by this video series. I now understand exactly how complex they are.
The car is a 2011, the engine I'm rebuilding is out of a later model Jag but I'm not sure what year
Nice video.
Have you any idea why there is no locating peg on the big ends bearings ?.
Because they don't have them. I don't know why.
New name for the channel...Piston Lost! Coming together nicely Steve. Good idea on having the engine on its side when torquing up the main caps. It looks a lot easier than before. Thanks for another great vid. 👍
you probably dont give a damn but does anybody know of a method to log back into an Instagram account??
I was dumb lost my login password. I would appreciate any tricks you can give me!
@Case Grey Instablaster ;)
@Joseph Kendall i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and im trying it out now.
Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Joseph Kendall It worked and I finally got access to my account again. Im so happy:D
Thanks so much you really help me out :D
@Case Grey no problem :)
Great to see your videos, very therapeutic to see a master mechanic at work. One question though, do you use the old bolts Steve.
Yes. I spoke to the machine shop about that and they said it was safe to reuse them.
@@pistonbroke Many thanks Steve, at least a few bob saved. Dread to think of the total cost. Your a pleasure to watch mate.
Hello from Australia, Love your channel mate its going to help me out alot next week when i do my engine swap over i had the oil pump fail on my engine so am swithcing it out with a late model territory engine but am going to do the bottom end bearings to be safe . Have you found anyone that does the main bearing cap bolts at all i cant seem to find a supplier for them
will be dropping your name in the video when i do it saying thanks and to check out your channel as your videos will be alot more in depth then mine will end up being for the engine side
good luck with the channel you deserve more subscribers
Thanks mate. Try a peugeot dealer for the bolts. Land rover don't sell internal engine bits but peugeot/citroen do. Ford may also do them as this engine was fitted in the F150. I've just subbed to you 👍
@@pistonbroke good thinking ive tried ford with no luck hopefully citreon or peugeot giv eme some better luck. champion thankyou will do the same
Curious on a couple of points which i may have missed. Plus 50 on new piston, and were they new bolts all round? Just curious not critical. I have 16 plate xf x260 are these still at risk. Whole video set has frightened the life out of me. Excellent insight though well done.
Dave K
Cylinder 1 was rebored .50 oversize. Head bolts were new, everything else was reused.
Sei que cada anel deve ficar à 120° padrão de fábrica! A circunferência tem 360° independente do diâmetro do cilindro, porém são 3 anéis por pistão ok, más 3 anéis dividido por 360° vai dar um distanciamento entre os entre ponta dos anéis um ângulo de 120° ok, más você corre o risco de quando for montar a cinta de anel no pistão, esse anel correr e ficar mais próximo do outro entre ponta do anel ok e sem falar que fica na área de atrito da saia do pistão!! Más se você monta os anéis de pistão à 180° na direção do pino da biela o distanciamento entre ponta dos anéis fica mais longe e os anéis de pistão não fica na área de atrito da saia do pistão ok!
Is the facelifted sdv6 and tdv6 rrs l494 and rr l405 (from 2018 and on ) still affected with the crankshaft failure?!thanks.
I haven't had anything to do with the later model stuff but I have heard of engine failures. Whether it's any more common than the earlier models I don't know.
Hi steve, any updates if this particular engine is still living? About to rebuild an engine the same way, using a genuine used crank as opposed to a new one due to the now rarity of decent factory cranks. I know theres tons of copy cranks on ebay but heard they are rubbish.
Managed to source a good used crank that hasnt cracked yet
No idea, car got sold a year or so later and I've not heard anything since.
Hey sir I'm currently looking into a sdv6 2014 sport what should I check in order to avoid this failure or do you have any suggestions on how to prevent it from happening ?
Make sure it has a full service history but even then they can still fail.
I notice that plastigage is not used to check bearing clearances?
Crank went away and bearings supplied to suit.
Hi just found your channel. Great video’s i’ve been thinking about starting a channel as we rebuild these on a weekly basis. Just noticed the big end bearings should be the other way around. White matt one on the rod and shiny on the cap. The white one has an extra coating on it. Hope this helps for next time
I double checked this with the engine machine shop and I fitted them the way they said.
@@pistonbroke Who's correct?
I dismantled the engine assembled at the headquarters factory.
No coating on the CONROD,
Cap coated
@@RYLTech i’ve took 25 engines apart and the machine shop I use to do line bores has rebuilt hundreds and hundreds and has the best reputation.
@@chrishill5166 look at my link from the manufacturer. I am correct I know for a fact
hi, very good job !!! do you use at 6:15 minutes the old plates for the crankshaft with the old bolts for the plates? and would it be a problem to use a damaged plate like in your video at part5 ?
would be happy if get an answer :)
kind regards :) !!!
The caps are matched to the block so they are reused, if they are damaged then the engine must be replaced or the block must be line bored. I reused the bolts without any problems.
Hi
I can you help me?
I'm doing a heads replacement, just wanna have everything back on right.
Do you have the
Range Rover L405
supercharged 3.0 torque bolt specifications
I only found the 5.0
Online and I don't know if it's the same specs
Thanks
Hi, no sorry, I don't have any info on the petrol engines.
Did you remove the engine out of the bonnet or did you remove the body first then the engine?
Took the body off. There is a 15 part series on this rebuild. Start to finish
didn't con-rod bearings used to be oil fed through the crank?
Yeah, they still are.
thanks piston, can you tell me the torque of the connecting rod?
You obviously didn't watch the video. I explained the torque settings.
Excellent series. Just wondered if you knew if an engine from a 2018 Range Rover Sport (RRS) SDV6 3.0 can be put into a 2011 RRS HSE TDV6? The 2018 engine is a gen2 engine. I saw in your video that you are using the injectors from the original engine but I think in your case both engines were TDV6. Any advice would be grately received.
I haven't had anything to do with the later engines so I couldn't say for sure. I'd imagine it would but you'd need to use the ancillaries from the old engine (fuel pump, injectors, wiring etc.) as there will be differences. The block I used for this rebuild was from a later car as it had lugs for the main bearings. I'm unsure what year it was from though.
@@pistonbroke many thanks for the reply.
Thanks for video. You’re a brave soul.
Brave or stupid 🤣
@@pistonbroke I own 2 discovery 4s. You wanna know stupid. Damn it. I know it but I love them. They’re so bloody good, however currently having a transmission problem with the earlier model 6 speed auto. It kind of grumbles in 5th Gear early at a low revs 60 km/h. Had the tranny reco’d. Still does it . My mates disco with the 6speed does it as well. Just annoying. Don’t know what to think. Any ideas? . By the way, I subbed many months ago. This msg wasn’t a ploy to pick your brain. I really love your videos cause your real. Not worried about production quality but rather a real insight on what goes on with Landrovers.👍🏻. Do you really hate them that much ? Ive owned a just about every model of toyota Landcruiser up till the current one. The discovery 4 is superior in every way except reliability as per your videos. That being said my 13 model hasn’t skipped a beat. The 2010 model is good just that transmission noise is driving me bonkers. Thanks for making these videos. You truly are a technician 👍🏻👍🏻
@@gadgetphilosophy8290 I don't hate them that much! I actually like them but the designers need to have their heads banged together. Quite funny really, when I worked at a landy dealership many moons ago I was speaking to one of the guys at LR technical and he said to me "we just rolled our eyes and said oh my god when we heard they were putting the TDV6 in them." As for your gearbox problem, I know they suffer with torque convertor vibration and I've heard something about the clutches but really I'm not too sure. That grumbling noise, I've heard a lot of them do that, no idea what causes it though. Maybe someone will see these comments and enlighten us. I don't claim to know everything!! As for my videos, I enjoy making them and I try to give a professional look to them. I'm sure I'd have plenty of complaints if it was poor camera work and out of focus shaky footage. Cheers for sticking around.
@@pistonbroke thanks mate. Keep up the good work.
@@pistonbroke keep up the good work. Looking forward to seeing how this latest engine will go back together. I followed the previous engine build where the cog turned on the cam. Man. I was amazed that you worked that out. Such a subtle looking problem with big concequences.
Hi mate, what if the piston block has expanded, what's the solution?
It'll either need machine work to bring it back into spec or it's scrap.
Hi Steve, I want to buy a D4 later this year but am sh1t scared of this happening (more afraid of the wife saying “told you so”) bit was wondering aside for regular maintenance are the ways to reduce the chances of this happening? I.e. a particular year to avoid or fit a stronger crank/bearings?
Regular servicing is all you can do and even then it's not guaranteed to behave. Engines are the same throughout so none are immune, it really is pot luck. If you really have to do this to yourself then go for the lowest mileage one you can afford with a full service history. Good luck and yeah, she will say "I told you so"
@@pistonbroke I drove a 2012 Mercedes GL 350 which had it's own issues (including a stretched timing chain at 55k miles) and after doing my research, I've changed my oil drain/fill interval to 6k miles maximum, even using synthetic oil. I fully believe that these DPF cars dilute their oil during the DPF regen cycle and that is what is leading to many of these internal issues on newer diesels. Just moved to the UK and bought a low mileage 2017 RRS 3.0 SDV6 so just seeing what I need to do when this one fails. :-) I'll be doing engine oil analysis every time I drain it to see how much metal is in there when a service is done.
@@AutomotiveEvangelist yes dpf regens do dilute the oil with diesel although the excess should burn off. The problem arises with several failed regens, the oil will dilute further and further and the oil level will rise cauing a runaway situation if left long enough.
Hi Steve , been following ur brilliant videos , own a D3 myself , did u ever see the engineers report that a Russian guy had done on his engine when his crank broke , if not can send the link over for u , thks again for taking the time to make these videos,
No I didn't see that, can you send the link please? Cheers for watching
@@pistonbroke hi, no probs , heres the link www.disco3.co.uk/gallery/albums/userpics/23856/D4_russian_doc.pdf, also hope u didn’t mind I shared ur video on the disco3 forum , www.disco3.co.uk/forum/post2180957.html#2180957, funny enough I was just talking about assembly grease and if it was still done , thks again as ur videos are extremely educational along with sharing ur expertise , is appreciated , thk u
Just pulled up that Russian document, boy does that make hard reading! I think the translation was done from a school dictionary without any thought of what the English translation actually reads like lol some of what they call the engine parts, especially the mains and big end bearings are a laugh! But trying to actually work out what went wrong with this particular engine would not be possible unless you were fluent in Russian without the pictures. As the old saying goes " A picture is worth a thousand words" is very apt in this case. But basically it comes down to short crank length, poor design leading to shells spinning, and in one case welding to the rod blocking the oil hole and thus oil starvation, overheating and seizure and that's just one cylinder it appears that one or two of the main journal shells moved as well causing oil starvation and serious overheating of the crank.
Don't think I will ever buy a RR Sport with one of these engines ever.
Question is: is the TD V8 any better? or are they a totally different animal in their lineage, from memory I thought the engine was designed by Ford, I know that it was produced for Land Rover in Ford's Dagenham engine plant (which is local to me, )where there was spare capacity as there was no longer any car production at Dagenham. I will stick to petrol I think thirsty, but apart from timing chain issues a reliable engine.
Hy mate. Can you put the link with the parts you buy because i don’t want to buy from eBay thanks mate
All the parts came from South Wales piston services in cardiff. None of it was bought online.
Nice job 👌👌 waiting for the next part 👏 can I ask where are you based? 🤔🙂
South Wales
Are all the pistons +0.5 or just one?
Just one
Hi, Steve, please be so kind and tell me what kind of bearings are you using to rebuild this RRS? Are they King bearing? Thank you in advance
This was a few years ago so I can't really remember. BGA I think but I'm not 100% sure.
@@pistonbroke thank you so much!!!
@pistonbroke The connecting rod bearing coated side should be on the other side, but in your video they are different. Am I wrong?
Hi steve definitely a man with knowledge on range rovers can you tell me is this a hard job and roughly how much would it cost to do. These are the error codes P22d3, p22d4 and p22cf
Have you got a description of the codes and what module they're stored in and what car, year, engine etc?
@@pistonbroke it's a 2011 range rover sport tdv6. p22d3 is turbocharger turbine inlet valve stuck closed
P22d4 is turbocharger turbine inlet valve position sensor circuit pending
P22cf is turbocharger turbine inlet valve control circuit/open permanent.
@@imransheikh8389 mounted on the back of the radiator fan shroud is the turbo bypass valve, these can stick shut but before replacing that you need to make sure the vacuum pipes are not split/disconnected and the modulator that supplies vacuum to the valve is working. If all that is good then wiring checks will be required. Cost will depend on your chosen garages labour rate as it will need to be diagnosed first. If the valve needs replacing, I think they are about £300 and not that nice to get to. On the back of the right hand turbo is another valve, these can stick too but again, the vacuum system needs to be checked
Hi steve is this something you can sort out.
You doing a great job mate! Where are you guys based please? I have a RR Sport l494 the engine shut off while I was driving! It doesn’t start! I was hoping you could sort me out. Keep up the great job.
I'm in South Wales
@@pistonbroke thank you very much for your reply! It’s to far away
I can use the old main cap bearing bolts again ?
I did
@@pistonbroke Perfect but i can’t find or order it new one looks like sold out
Land Rover never used to sell any internal engine parts, they didn't even list them in the parts catalogue, I don't know if they do now.
Hi Steve, sorry to resurrect this old one but when you were rebuilding this in one video you took out the glow plugs maybe it was during the compression check if the Jag engine? You just appeared to put a wrench on them and cracked them off and removed with ease. Is this all there is to it as I have heard of horror stories about how difficult they are to remove and I would like to change mine before I put my replacement engine in. How's Sid's RRS going by the way? Cheers Simon
Hi Simon, yes that is all there is to it but yes they can snap. I've never had any snap on me though but I know they can and do. As far as I know the car is still going.
@@pistonbroke cheers Steve. Glad you also decided to keep the channel going 😁👍
Bout ask him how long was live this engine 😂😂😂😂
That block should have come back immaculate and wrapped up with no hint of machining swarf present.
There wasn't any swarf but I always clean them out just in case.
Watching this I think I would have my engine repaired by a dealer.
Why? They wouldn't repair it anyway. They'd put an engine in and charge you 20 grand
Olá amigo tudo bem? Olha se você me permite, gostaria de lhe sugerir que, quando você for montar os anéis no pistão, coloque os anéis a 180° na direção do pino da biela ok os entre ponta de cada anel deve ficar à 180° na direção do pino da biela um para cada lado ok; porque ai você vai ter um distanciamento mais longe do entre ponta dos anéis e os entre ponta fica fora da área de atrito da saia do pistão, dá uma vida maior para o motor e não corre o risco de alinhar anéis de pistão ok
Vou bem obrigado. É um pouco tarde agora, pois todos os pistões estão dentro! Eu reconstruí muitos motores e sempre espaçava os anéis assim e nunca tive um problema. Contanto que as lacunas não estejam alinhadas, então deve estar tudo bem. Como eu disse, nunca tive um problema.
@@pistonbroke ok amigo eu só estou fazendo uma orientação!
Gostei do seu trabalho muito bom!
Parabéns!
Shit bro thats a lot of parts to put back in jesus 🤦
not nescafe blend 43!! Cats piss
This is the wrost engine ever in history
Best engine in the world. It keeps food on the table and a roof over my head.
Hi, I got a 2010 rrs, snapped crank, what do you charge for a rebuild?
3.0 tdv6
U may work 10 days bout this engine will live just 10 minuts this shit citroen engine
Shows what you know. This was over a year ago and it's still going. They last 10 mins because most are rebuilt my muppets that don't know what they're doing.
Anyone ??? Do the crankshaft from 2.7 fits the 3.0? How about the head cylinders and tappet covers ? Thanks ❤
2.7 was notorious for braking crankshaft in half every 100,000km or so I heard. And as per my LR master tech buddy thats not the case for newer 3.0.
You do not want that 2.7 crankshaft in aything but in light passenger car
3.0 breaks more often than 2.7
Really? My LR master mechanic- friend says otherwise. He works at one of the dealers in New York, we were discussing this specific subject and he said that sometime ago, precovid I guess, there was a promotional deal on lease of these and they had pushed a huge number of these cars out, not a single issue, he is shop's forman and says that to this day, he has not seen a single broken crankshaft yet.
Says, DPF gets clogged up because big city people inch their cars in traffic all the time and do not take'em to the highway, but no crankshaft.
Is there possibility US designated 3.0D were improved in some to avoid class action law suits?
I remember they were replacing timung chains/guides/acrivators free of charge because of a design flaw... I have a 2013 RRrS sport thst supposedly is out of the woods, i.e has updated timing, but I went to the dealer, said that I am uncomfortable with all that timing debuckle and they were like: no problem, here is your loaner, we'll call you when your car is ready...
Imagine having to do the crankshaft recall?
I did 10 years at land rover main dealers and never saw a 2.7 crank snap, they spin bearings but not snap the crank. 3.0 crank snaps randomly with no bearing issues to cause it. 3.0 has a longer stroke than the 2.7 and this makes the crank weaker as there is very little meat between the end bearing journals, also the heat treating on some may not be good enough.. LR would never recall these for cranks as they don't know which ones are affected.