Good evening! I want to thank you from the bottom of my heart for the videos you made because it helps me a lot because I also have a Jaguar with the same engine that I have to repair. These videos help me a lot, thanks again for saving 50 pounds for the workbook. God bless you 🙂🙂😇😇
It's like watching Picasso with his art set, a joy to watch, very therapeutic and takes me back to first watching my dad take apart the engine in my sister's Vauxhall Viva, put me on the path to 45 years of working on my own cars, never to reach your level of skill and knowledge though, just subscribed 👍
Epic episode 👍👍 Great stuff. It is coming together very well. Glad to see Sid got his hands dirty too. Thanks for another great video Steve. You should be teaching this stuff. Cheers
Hiya , bless u and thanks so much for taking the time to explain that to me ref the hydraulic tappets , extremely grateful and see you’ve made some great progress , very impressed in how u know where it all goes , bet u can’t wait to finally get it back in the disco , thank u once again for making these videos , are extremely informative stay safe and well , Gary 👍👍
Thank you for the very informative video. Excellent explanation. Please can you tell us how to install the left toothed cam wheel as I removed both tooted wheels . The cams where moved without the belt on. Big mistake. This was done due lack of experience. The right one ( I think is the intake) is no problem as it has only position for the pin to go in. But the left one (I think is the exhaust) has two or three positions . The question is, which position it should go in.
@@pistonbroke Is there a specific positioning of camshafts in both cylinders, and can the rear timing belt (smaller) affect the timing if is not positioned like you showed on the video. The reason is because I didn't remove the body so it's difficult to see.
@@Ruralkingmusiq pump belt on the 2.7 is not timed. Yes the cams need to go in in a timed position, writing facing up, there are marks on the rear cam gears that line up with coloured links on the chain. Check out the other vids in this series, I've covered this.
Hello mate, I’m looking to change my cam belt but also have a bit of a rattle when just starting to pull out of a junction so going to do small chain and tench between cams, my question is is there timing marks on the small chains to the cams, I didn’t see it on the video sorry if you have already covered this.
Hi Steve, my car is in the garage and we turned the crank and the tensioner on the chain started moving up and down as I seen in your video, could this be the cause of my tapperty noise? Thanks Darren
Hi Steve, I was charged 1800 euro for the following, full timing belt change, aux belt and tensioners, hydraulic tappets, fuel pump belt, rocker gaskets, oil change, cam tensioner. It turned out that the noise was coming from the cam belt tensioner, it was a mess. Thanks Darren
Luckily I found how to install back the left toothed cam wheel as when I looked carefully on the back of the wheel I saw the markings of the exact image on the cam shaft plate . So one headache out of the way. Then I install the belt and made on full turn on the camshaft wheel bring the left cam for the pin to go in. Removed the cam belt and turn the right cam intake till I got the second pin in. Now both pins are in place. Then turn the crank clockwise till I saw the first hole (Bit oval) ( as there are three holes in the flywheel . 1 little oval , 2 round , 3 little oval . I tried No2 but engine stuck when turning by hand. Then tried No.1 . I had the 2 Cam pins in and the tool on the flywheel hole No.1. Install the cam belt using your procedure. remove the crank tool and the 2 pins. Turn the crank 2 times while the cam wheels turned one time. Insert the 2 pins in the camshaft and the one on the flywheel and all fitted nicely. So it seems it is OK. But still waiting for a friend from Jaguar to have a look at it before I start to be sure 200%. Thank you again for your kind assistance. This was a nightmare. God bless you for your kind assistance.
12:05 what is it ? What is the name ? It is needed for replace oil pump and unscrew crankshaft bolt ? If think I need it buy but I don't know how find it. Regards from Poland.
Currently have a 08 sport on the lift with body removed to do timing belts, rocker covers, oil pump , brake pipes and suspension arms, I’ve just come across plastic bit which appear to be from the chain tensioner ! Can chain tensionera be replaced without removing both cams from both heads .....? I’ve belt all timed up and I’d like to avoid having to take it off again.....!
@pistonbroke another question is ,why the pump belt have two marks on it, it won't be like old diesel have 6 outlet pipe, should be just one out pipe to both fuel rails?
Hi Steve and subscribers, could someone help me with this question? If the TDV6 3.0L has a plastic timing belt that drives one of the cam of each bank (exhaust), and in turn a short chain per cylinder head to transfer the drive from the exhaust cam to the intake cam. If the plastic belt is cut/split, does it mean that the camshafts would maintain their synchronism through the chain, and therefore there would be no damage inside the engine (pistons, valves, camshaft, cylinder head)?
Another great video guys, don’t know if you showed it or not, but did you check the turbo? It looks a bit tired looking, I’d presume you did, as you are very meticulous. Fantastic job 👏
Hi Steve I've changed my oil pump today however after rotating the crank two rotations the fly wheel pin goes straight in and the left cam pin the also but the right cam pin doesn't, I can get the end of the pin in the cam aperture if I force it but it seems to just be off centre as if the aperture is about 1mm to the left. can you give me any advice please? Kind Regards Rhys.
Leave the belt tensioned, put the crank pin and left cam pin in, loosen the 3 13mm bolts on the right cam sprocket just enough so that you can turn the cam with an 18mm spanner, turn the cam till you can get the pin in, tighten the 3 13mm bolts, take all the pins out, turn the engine 2 turns and pin it again to see if it all lines up.
As long as the pins are in correctly, fit the belt then turn by hand and make sure it rotates properly, realign and refit the pins to make sure it's still timed.
I match all timings and now injectors no working and firing so car can't start and no fault code in powertrain i check wiring also in injectors coupler current not display what I do next
Just one question If it is perfectly timed before old belt removed, why disturb the 6 sprocket bolts? On other V6 engines I've done, this is a dodge I use to disturb as little as possible and all is good and time saved into the bargain.
@@julesviolin the timing will be out if you don't loosen them. As you tension the belt the sprockets will move anticlockwise. If the bolts are tight it wont pull all the slack to the tensioner side and when you turn the engine over to check it, the pins will not go in.
@pistonbroke I get what your saying but if you fit the belt so it's already taught from crank to both sprockets anticlockwise, and the teeth line up, the slack will be taken up on the tensioner side without any sprocket movement. That's how I do it on other engines without disturbing the timing. Obviously if the pins don't line up, only then would sprocket adjustment be required. Works for me !
New belt is a different length to the old one as the old one is stretched so you'll never get all the slack on the tensioner side. You do what you like but there is a reason why the pullies are on slotted holes and it doesn't make the job any more difficult, just means you'll only have to do it once rather than piss about because you decided to take a short cut.
Hi, guys thx for the great video, I learned a few good things from it, but one question remains ☺️. How do you make sure to meet the timing of the rear belt drive, if you are not using the special tool? BR Peter
But if you don’t fix the pump with the special tool in a certain position, how do you get the correct position or angle on camshaft pulley and therefore the correct timing?
@@petermusch5898 set the engine to the timed position. No need to lock it if you're not removing the front belt then line up the marks on the pump belt.
In the bottom of the filter housing there is a little spring clip a rubber plug on it that opens when you change the filter. Check this is ok and is sealing when the filters fitted. if its not it will allow the filter housing to empty when the engines not running.
Super video! I will rebuild my engine in the next time. Can you or anyone help me with a supplier for the new mainbearing bolts. The manual says to use new bolts. These are expansive bolts as you have to Turn further 90 degrees.
@@lr3wedgev832 I have looked everywhere for them, even different engines with the same bolts with similar torque and can't find any. spoke to Turner engineering and they along with everyone else say to reuse them but only once. it does seem wrong but there is no choice. believe parts are soon to become more available now ford are using the engine in there F150 pickups and are listing these type of pars and Cranks. If you have any luck in finding any let me know.
@@Parastorm. Hi y, I found the bolts in the US. Please have a look at www.tascapartrs.com Choose " Ford F150 MY2018 Titanium " there you can find all the engine parts are need with nice prices. All the bolts and also the new crankshaft and engineblock.
Hey brother hope you doing well, I have a 2016 Range Rover 3.0 diesel turbo and I’m getting all cylinders misfiring and engine starts, idlers with a lot of vibration but pretty steady, and you press the accelerator pedal and engine does nothing. Any ideas? Thank you
I've seen in the past engine builders mark the nut or bolt with a small dab of white paint to indicate they've tightened each part. Just in case they miss one I assume? Has that practice ceased as I don't see that nowadays?
I see the vid is from Nov 2020 but can you tell me what is the model year of the engine that you are working on please..... Thank You... Really enjoy watching and listening to your vids ... Great work !
When you put those cams back in.. It didn't look like yo had them marked to match on tooth to chain?? You just kind of put them together.. Did I miss something?? Besides that.. My 2016 RRS TD6 seems to have a dead oil level sensor.. The only video I can find in on a bit older model and it looks like pure hell to change.. Might be better to pull the motor than to pull apart the universal joints, differential and what other crazy just to put that conical piece of plastic in.. Might it be better to just fabricate a dipstick and run it up the side and pin it to the body.. Just drain and refill to exact specifications and make a custom end that marks the full just to avoid the nightmare.. . Your thoughts?
thanks Mate, this vid of timing cams is clearer than Christians, I did not think on the sdv6 that the pump belt was timed, however, did you pin the tensioner before you took it off in the begiinning hate modern crap, when I was with CUMMINS the timing chest was gears and I could rebuild say, a 855 cu inch engine in a fraction of the time it takes to rebuild LR
Hi have you done a video of doing the fuel pump whilst the engine is in the car? Is this possible or do you need to take the engine out. I have enquired this with a garage and they inform me that the engine needs to be out. Thanks
Hi, no I haven't done a video on this but I can tell you that the engine doesn't need to come out. There was a recall on the hp fuel pumps in around 2007/8 and I was doing them in about 2 hours. It's a fiddly job but definitely doable with the engine in.
My 2.7 rattles loudly for a few seconds when I start it if I haven't run it for a few days. Is that normal or does it mean it has a worn tappet? I think if it's not been run for just an hour or two it doesn't do it.
That is the timing chains in the heads rattling. The oil has run back to the sump and when you start it, the oil has to fill the oil filter again before circulating the engine. The lack of oil on start up causes the tensioners to go slack and the chains will rattle. This momentary lack of oil will cause wear to the crankshaft and bearings. See part 1 of my discovery 4 engine rebuild. I explain it there. ruclips.net/video/NaGg_qDd5L8/видео.html
@@pistonbroke I think you said in that video that any wear in the oil pump allows oil to run back to the sump and the rattle is due having to wait for the filter to refill because of that. Excuse me if I miss quote you. I bought mine at about 100,000 miles. As soon as I bought it I fitted a new genuine oil pump (the updated one with stronger tensioner boss) and timing belt. It made no difference to the startup rattle. The car now has over 160,000 miles and it still does it, but it doesn't seem to have done it any harm. I'm not sure about your theory because when I do an oil and filter change it takes ages for the oil pressure warning light to go out, but on a cold start the light goes out straight away, so clearly the oil filter doesn't empty very much overnight. I used to have a Passat TDI that rattled on cold start and with those it was considered normal, so I just assumed that the 2.7 is the same. Should I worry about it.?
@@gepwxaqdfsidsesg1548 if you look online there's not many of these engines that go much over your mileage. I'd just keep changing the oil frequently and keep your eye out for things getting worse. The crank can snap with no notice or it can spin a bearing with no notice. Not trying to scare you just saying not worth worrying about.
@@denniscronin1112 mine is in a Jag so it gets an easier life. Most of the time it's cruising on the motorway under 2000rpm. It's not my only car so if something goes bang I can take it off the road and pull the engine. You don't have to pull the body off like a Disco either.
@@gepwxaqdfsidsesg1548 I had the same in my XJ got to 155k then started to have issues so moved it on. Shame because when its running right it was lovely.
@@pistonbroke Thank you!! TDV8 is what Im interested in. Will a 2010/11/12 TDV8 HSE facelift cab be a straight swap to a 2005 Frame? Im in a country where 2010/11/12/13 TDV8 costs 25X as much as 2005 TDV6 due to taxes. But body swaps are legal. I plan on swapping engine gear diff from TDV8 donor frame to TDV6 frame (need to keep original frame for legal purposes - thats the whole point) and then swap the cab as a whole to facelift TDV8 2011.
@@pistonbroke I just need the 2005 basic frame to be same as 2010/11/12 TDV8 frame. Subframe etc components can be swapped. Any guidance you have for me?
Ciekawe jak teraz włożysz ten plastik co przychodzi za górną rolką od rozrzadu na pewno znajdzie się w koszu na śmieci I jeszcze w dwóch taki silnik skręcać ciekawe ile części Ci zostało z silnika
@@krzysztofsulowski4011 Tak, obróć je do końca zgodnie z ruchem wskazówek zegara. To pozwoli im obracać się w kierunku przeciwnym do ruchu wskazówek zegara podczas napinania paska. Użyłem do tego tłumacza google, więc przepraszam, jeśli wyszło źle!
@@pistonbroke Hi friend. I am from brazil. I worked on Land Rover Company when I was 23 years old. I am thinking to come back to work with this brand again. The main problem with this Engine is spare parts. Do you know anyone who send land rover genuine parts to me. I have watched all episodes about this Engine. Congrats. Do you have e-mail?
@@pistonbroke honestly I have seen some videos from you and you guys explained more things about the Discovery then all the guys that I have seen. Thank you for the video.
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Good evening! I want to thank you from the bottom of my heart for the videos you made because it helps me a lot because I also have a Jaguar with the same engine that I have to repair. These videos help me a lot, thanks again for saving 50 pounds for the workbook. God bless you 🙂🙂😇😇
No problem, thanks for watching 👍
Looking great. I can't wait to see it running now. Fantastic job Steve. Keep up the good work!
Fantastic video on this repair. I could see the smile on Sid’s face when the job was completed. Great job thanks for sharing.
Cheers for watching.
been watching your videos on range rover sport engine rebuild and the procedure very impressed could work with you all day mate well done top job
Cheers 👍
It's like watching Picasso with his art set, a joy to watch, very therapeutic and takes me back to first watching my dad take apart the engine in my sister's Vauxhall Viva, put me on the path to 45 years of working on my own cars, never to reach your level of skill and knowledge though, just subscribed 👍
Epic episode 👍👍 Great stuff. It is coming together very well. Glad to see Sid got his hands dirty too.
Thanks for another great video Steve. You should be teaching this stuff. Cheers
Alp Kalaycioglu thanks alp sid 😂
Fantastic video. You make the job look so simple.👍
Hiya , bless u and thanks so much for taking the time to explain that to me ref the hydraulic tappets , extremely grateful and see you’ve made some great progress , very impressed in how u know where it all goes , bet u can’t wait to finally get it back in the disco , thank u once again for making these videos , are extremely informative stay safe and well , Gary 👍👍
Hope you're keeping well Gary 👍
No problem
@@knwatkins hiya , likewise hope this finds u well , will send u a pm mate , 👍
By the way Steve, I showed your videos to the German garage yesterday, they were amazed.....
Probably amazed at my stupidity for taking one of these on!
@@pistonbroke They are fantastic, keep it up....
Thank you for the very informative video. Excellent explanation. Please can you tell us how to install the left toothed cam wheel as I removed both tooted wheels . The cams where moved without the belt on. Big mistake. This was done due lack of experience. The right one ( I think is the intake) is no problem as it has only position for the pin to go in. But the left one (I think is the exhaust) has two or three positions . The question is, which position it should go in.
Can you please share the link of disco 3 2.7 timing belt settings. I took both cylinder Heads to engineering and now I need to set timing.
Timing is the same as the 3.0
@@pistonbroke
Is there a specific positioning of camshafts in both cylinders, and can the rear timing belt (smaller) affect the timing if is not positioned like you showed on the video. The reason is because I didn't remove the body so it's difficult to see.
@@Ruralkingmusiq pump belt on the 2.7 is not timed. Yes the cams need to go in in a timed position, writing facing up, there are marks on the rear cam gears that line up with coloured links on the chain. Check out the other vids in this series, I've covered this.
@@pistonbroke Thank you so much Sir
Hello mate, I’m looking to change my cam belt but also have a bit of a rattle when just starting to pull out of a junction so going to do small chain and tench between cams, my question is is there timing marks on the small chains to the cams, I didn’t see it on the video sorry if you have already covered this.
There's coloured links on the chain which line up with marks on the cam gears.
Hi Steve, my car is in the garage and we turned the crank and the tensioner on the chain started moving up and down as I seen in your video, could this be the cause of my tapperty noise? Thanks Darren
It will move up and down as it works on oil pressure. When these are failing you get more of a rattle than a tap. Could be weak hydraulic lifters.
@@pistonbroke Thanks Steve, yes its more of a tapperty sound…. very difficult to change with the body on....
Hi Steve, I was charged 1800 euro for the following, full timing belt change, aux belt and tensioners, hydraulic tappets, fuel pump belt, rocker gaskets, oil change, cam tensioner. It turned out that the noise was coming from the cam belt tensioner, it was a mess. Thanks Darren
Luckily I found how to install back the left toothed cam wheel as when I looked carefully on the back of the wheel I saw the markings of the exact image on the cam shaft plate . So one headache out of the way. Then I install the belt and made on full turn on the camshaft wheel bring the left cam for the pin to go in. Removed the cam belt and turn the right cam intake till I got the second pin in. Now both pins are in place. Then turn the crank clockwise till I saw the first hole (Bit oval) ( as there are three holes in the flywheel . 1 little oval , 2 round , 3 little oval . I tried No2 but engine stuck when turning by hand. Then tried No.1 . I had the 2 Cam pins in and the tool on the flywheel hole No.1. Install the cam belt using your procedure. remove the crank tool and the 2 pins. Turn the crank 2 times while the cam wheels turned one time. Insert the 2 pins in the camshaft and the one on the flywheel and all fitted nicely. So it seems it is OK. But still waiting for a friend from Jaguar to have a look at it before I start to be sure 200%. Thank you again for your kind assistance. This was a nightmare. God bless you for your kind assistance.
Defo agree with the crank pulley torquing! It’s so tight doing the 90 you would nearly 💩 the pants!
is there any special timing to follow for the installation of the crankshaft timing belt pulley?
No, it can go on in any position but it must be tightened before the belt goes on.
Love ya vids Steve, and thanks to Sid too.................
12:05 what is it ? What is the name ? It is needed for replace oil pump and unscrew crankshaft bolt ? If think I need it buy but I don't know how find it. Regards from Poland.
It's a timing pin
2010 range rover l320 tdv6 3.0 says the crank pully is 150nm then 300nm then 90 degrees what is the difference with yours ?
Tidy job Steve you kown your shit mate 👍👍👍 very educational
Cheers mate
Currently have a 08 sport on the lift with body removed to do timing belts, rocker covers, oil pump , brake pipes and suspension arms, I’ve just come across plastic bit which appear to be from the chain tensioner ! Can chain tensionera be replaced without removing both cams from both heads .....? I’ve belt all timed up and I’d like to avoid having to take it off again.....!
Cams need to come out to change it. Buy the kit from land rover, only about £70. You get the chain and tensioner.
Goodmorning a curiosity that oil and water pump have you mounted the oil pump is with sensor and the oil seal on the gearbox is with sensor? Thanks
Hi! want to know how to replace the back belt when the engine not off?
Best thing for you is to find a workshop manual. I can't explain how to do it in the comments section.
@pistonbroke another question is ,why the pump belt have two marks on it, it won't be like old diesel have 6 outlet pipe, should be just one out pipe to both fuel rails?
@@alanw5812 the pump needs to be timed. I mentioned this when fitting the belt.
Nice one brother getting there 👍 👏
Good night where is the cam sensor located on this engine
Front of left hand head just above power steering pump. I showed its location in one of my videos.
Hi Steve and subscribers, could someone help me with this question? If the TDV6 3.0L has a plastic timing belt that drives one of the cam of each bank (exhaust), and in turn a short chain per cylinder head to transfer the drive from the exhaust cam to the intake cam. If the plastic belt is cut/split, does it mean that the camshafts would maintain their synchronism through the chain, and therefore there would be no damage inside the engine (pistons, valves, camshaft, cylinder head)?
The short chain only times the two cams together, if the belt breaks then there would be piston and valve damage.
Champion 👍🏻👍🏻
What is the difference in the SDV6 and TDV6 ? Is it the same block / heads etc ?
Great detailed vids Piston Broke.
Sdv6 is higher output
Another great video guys, don’t know if you showed it or not, but did you check the turbo? It looks a bit tired looking, I’d presume you did, as you are very meticulous. Fantastic job 👏
I didn't show it but yes I have checked them.
Any tips on how the cams are timed together (by the chain)?
This is one episode of a 15 part series, I covered the cam timing in one of the other vids in this series.
@@pistonbroke thanks! I've found the coloured links now 🤦♂️
Was wondering about the timing ring!
Hello may i ask how much does it cost to replace all the Belts please?. i have a 2007 L320 tdv6 with a 160.000 miles Thank you
Hi Steve I've changed my oil pump today however after rotating the crank two rotations the fly wheel pin goes straight in and the left cam pin the also but the right cam pin doesn't, I can get the end of the pin in the cam aperture if I force it but it seems to just be off centre as if the aperture is about 1mm to the left. can you give me any advice please?
Kind Regards Rhys.
Leave the belt tensioned, put the crank pin and left cam pin in, loosen the 3 13mm bolts on the right cam sprocket just enough so that you can turn the cam with an 18mm spanner, turn the cam till you can get the pin in, tighten the 3 13mm bolts, take all the pins out, turn the engine 2 turns and pin it again to see if it all lines up.
Thank you very much.
Me again Steve do I leave the crank pin in whilst doing this mate ?
@@freedom5716 yeah and the left cam pin, do as I said in the first reply.
Brilliant thanks again much appreciated.
Thank you soo much, this has been a huge help!!
No problem. Cheers 👍
How can we match the crankshaft timing mark if we forget in this same engine please help me out
Put the timing pins in the flywheel and cam sprockets.
@@pistonbrokeFlywheel timing any pic, video if any and if timing out then we have to match all timing (flywheel, cam, fuel pump) ?
@@pistonbroke did that just wanted to make sure is there any other timing that i need to take care of
As long as the pins are in correctly, fit the belt then turn by hand and make sure it rotates properly, realign and refit the pins to make sure it's still timed.
I match all timings and now injectors no working and firing so car can't start and no fault code in powertrain i check wiring also in injectors coupler current not display what I do next
can both belts be replaced with engine still in place? fuel pump belt isnt a huge problem if left until it snaps then replace right ?
Yes they can be done with the body on.
How much for a reconditioned engine and fitted 2007 sports 2.7
Just one question
If it is perfectly timed before old belt removed, why disturb the 6 sprocket bolts?
On other V6 engines I've done, this is a dodge I use to disturb as little as possible and all is good and time saved into the bargain.
@@julesviolin the timing will be out if you don't loosen them. As you tension the belt the sprockets will move anticlockwise. If the bolts are tight it wont pull all the slack to the tensioner side and when you turn the engine over to check it, the pins will not go in.
@pistonbroke I get what your saying but if you fit the belt so it's already taught from crank to both sprockets anticlockwise, and the teeth line up, the slack will be taken up on the tensioner side without any sprocket movement.
That's how I do it on other engines without disturbing the timing.
Obviously if the pins don't line up, only then would sprocket adjustment be required.
Works for me !
New belt is a different length to the old one as the old one is stretched so you'll never get all the slack on the tensioner side. You do what you like but there is a reason why the pullies are on slotted holes and it doesn't make the job any more difficult, just means you'll only have to do it once rather than piss about because you decided to take a short cut.
Hi, guys thx for the great video, I learned a few good things from it, but one question remains ☺️. How do you make sure to meet the timing of the rear belt drive, if you are not using the special tool? BR Peter
You don't need special tools to time the rear belt. Just make sure the lines on the sprockets correspond with the lines on the belt.
But if you don’t fix the pump with the special tool in a certain position, how do you get the correct position or angle on camshaft pulley and therefore the correct timing?
@@petermusch5898 set the engine to the timed position. No need to lock it if you're not removing the front belt then line up the marks on the pump belt.
In the bottom of the filter housing there is a little spring clip a rubber plug on it that opens when you change the filter. Check this is ok and is sealing when the filters fitted. if its not it will allow the filter housing to empty when the engines not running.
Will do, cheers
Super video! I will rebuild my engine in the next time. Can you or anyone help me with a supplier for the new mainbearing bolts.
The manual says to use new bolts. These are expansive bolts as you have to Turn further 90 degrees.
@@lr3wedgev832 I have looked everywhere for them, even different engines with the same bolts with similar torque and can't find any. spoke to Turner engineering and they along with everyone else say to reuse them but only once. it does seem wrong but there is no choice. believe parts are soon to become more available now ford are using the engine in there F150 pickups and are listing these type of pars and Cranks. If you have any luck in finding any let me know.
@@Parastorm. Hi y, I found the bolts in the US. Please have a look at www.tascapartrs.com
Choose " Ford F150 MY2018 Titanium " there you can find all the engine parts are need with nice prices. All the bolts and also the new crankshaft and engineblock.
@@lr3wedgev832 oh yes, made by FORD in USA !
Would this be the same procedure as 3.0L petrol jaguar xf 2010?
No
So what about doing this with the engine in the car?
It can be done, it's not that difficult.
Hi. You may have answered this befofe. Will you buy a vehicle with the Land Rover V6 in it?
No
Hey brother hope you doing well, I have a 2016 Range Rover 3.0 diesel turbo and I’m getting all cylinders misfiring and engine starts, idlers with a lot of vibration but pretty steady, and you press the accelerator pedal and engine does nothing. Any ideas? Thank you
I need fault codes. Without them I've got nothing to go on.
Hi I got the same problem on my 2016 RRS tdv6. Did you find out what it was
Hi I got the same problem with mine did you get round to fixing yours? What was the problem?
@@blogvlog5169it was actually a car I was going to buy and I ended up walking away sorry
I've seen in the past engine builders mark the nut or bolt with a small dab of white paint to indicate they've tightened each part. Just in case they miss one I assume? Has that practice ceased as I don't see that nowadays?
I've never done that and I've never left anything loose. Manufacturers do it for quality control.
I see the vid is from Nov 2020 but can you tell me what is the model year of the engine that you are working on please..... Thank You... Really enjoy watching and listening to your vids ... Great work !
2010 3.0 tdv6
When you put those cams back in.. It didn't look like yo had them marked to match on tooth to chain?? You just kind of put them together.. Did I miss something?? Besides that.. My 2016 RRS TD6 seems to have a dead oil level sensor.. The only video I can find in on a bit older model and it looks like pure hell to change.. Might be better to pull the motor than to pull apart the universal joints, differential and what other crazy just to put that conical piece of plastic in.. Might it be better to just fabricate a dipstick and run it up the side and pin it to the body.. Just drain and refill to exact specifications and make a custom end that marks the full just to avoid the nightmare.. . Your thoughts?
Thanks for the video!!! About to tackle this on my 2016 model. Where did you get the rocker arm parts? Part number?
Got them from South Wales Pistons. No idea what the part numbers are.
Ive got the same engine in an s-type jag, how much would it cost to take the engine out to rebuild? or can you remove the heads while in situ ?
Cost of a rebuild will depend on what it needs. You probably could get the heads off in situ but it would be far easier with the engine out.
Where is the crank sensor located?
Behind the the flywheel. I've covered this in other videos
@Piston Broke Garage Thank you
thanks Mate, this vid of timing cams is clearer than Christians, I did not think on the sdv6 that the pump belt was timed, however, did you pin the tensioner before you took it off in the begiinning
hate modern crap, when I was with CUMMINS the timing chest was gears and I could rebuild say, a 855 cu inch engine in a fraction of the time it takes to rebuild LR
No I didn't pin the tensioner. It should be replaced every time it is removed. The new one comes with a pin in it.
Hi have you done a video of doing the fuel pump whilst the engine is in the car? Is this possible or do you need to take the engine out. I have enquired this with a garage and they inform me that the engine needs to be out.
Thanks
Hi, no I haven't done a video on this but I can tell you that the engine doesn't need to come out. There was a recall on the hp fuel pumps in around 2007/8 and I was doing them in about 2 hours. It's a fiddly job but definitely doable with the engine in.
@@pistonbroke Many thanks for a quick response on this.
Buongiorno,,questo motore è Land rover o audi v6 ?
My 2.7 rattles loudly for a few seconds when I start it if I haven't run it for a few days. Is that normal or does it mean it has a worn tappet? I think if it's not been run for just an hour or two it doesn't do it.
That is the timing chains in the heads rattling. The oil has run back to the sump and when you start it, the oil has to fill the oil filter again before circulating the engine. The lack of oil on start up causes the tensioners to go slack and the chains will rattle. This momentary lack of oil will cause wear to the crankshaft and bearings. See part 1 of my discovery 4 engine rebuild. I explain it there. ruclips.net/video/NaGg_qDd5L8/видео.html
@@pistonbroke I think you said in that video that any wear in the oil pump allows oil to run back to the sump and the rattle is due having to wait for the filter to refill because of that. Excuse me if I miss quote you. I bought mine at about 100,000 miles. As soon as I bought it I fitted a new genuine oil pump (the updated one with stronger tensioner boss) and timing belt. It made no difference to the startup rattle. The car now has over 160,000 miles and it still does it, but it doesn't seem to have done it any harm. I'm not sure about your theory because when I do an oil and filter change it takes ages for the oil pressure warning light to go out, but on a cold start the light goes out straight away, so clearly the oil filter doesn't empty very much overnight. I used to have a Passat TDI that rattled on cold start and with those it was considered normal, so I just assumed that the 2.7 is the same. Should I worry about it.?
@@gepwxaqdfsidsesg1548 if you look online there's not many of these engines that go much over your mileage. I'd just keep changing the oil frequently and keep your eye out for things getting worse. The crank can snap with no notice or it can spin a bearing with no notice. Not trying to scare you just saying not worth worrying about.
@@denniscronin1112 mine is in a Jag so it gets an easier life. Most of the time it's cruising on the motorway under 2000rpm. It's not my only car so if something goes bang I can take it off the road and pull the engine. You don't have to pull the body off like a Disco either.
@@gepwxaqdfsidsesg1548 I had the same in my XJ got to 155k then started to have issues so moved it on. Shame because when its running right it was lovely.
amazing 👏
You guys need a beer after this.
Hi, just found your channel. Is there a reliable L320 motor platform you recommend? Like with no major catastrophic failure points like the V6 Diesel?
TDV8 or petrol V8 are far better engines.
@@pistonbroke Thank you!! TDV8 is what Im interested in. Will a 2010/11/12 TDV8 HSE facelift cab be a straight swap to a 2005 Frame? Im in a country where 2010/11/12/13 TDV8 costs 25X as much as 2005 TDV6 due to taxes. But body swaps are legal. I plan on swapping engine gear diff from TDV8 donor frame to TDV6 frame (need to keep original frame for legal purposes - thats the whole point) and then swap the cab as a whole to facelift TDV8 2011.
@@pistonbroke I just need the 2005 basic frame to be same as 2010/11/12 TDV8 frame. Subframe etc components can be swapped. Any guidance you have for me?
Hello
I have engine v6 2.7
And my Range Rover have 3.0
It’s same or different
I want to fit 2.7
Please let me know
I’m from Australia
Thanks
It's all different. You can fit the engine but you'll need to swap everything over from the 3.0
Ciekawe jak teraz włożysz ten plastik co przychodzi za górną rolką od rozrzadu na pewno znajdzie się w koszu na śmieci I jeszcze w dwóch taki silnik skręcać ciekawe ile części Ci zostało z silnika
Plastik znajdujący się za górną rolką pasuje dość łatwo. Łatwiej jest zamontować plastik przed walcem. Nie zostały mi żadne części.
@@pistonbroke czy te kola na walkach rozrzadu musza byc maksymalnie obrocone w prawa ja ustawilem po srodku i nie moge odpalic auta
@@krzysztofsulowski4011 Tak, obróć je do końca zgodnie z ruchem wskazówek zegara. To pozwoli im obracać się w kierunku przeciwnym do ruchu wskazówek zegara podczas napinania paska. Użyłem do tego tłumacza google, więc przepraszam, jeśli wyszło źle!
@@pistonbroke Ok.Dziekuje przetlumaczone bardzo dobrze.Pozdrawiam
Guten Abend
Ich suche eine Motor fur rang rover sport 3.0 20011y
Habt euch oder wo sind euch?
Where your workshop is?
South Wales
@@pistonbroke Hi friend. I am from brazil. I worked on Land Rover Company when I was 23 years old. I am thinking to come back to work with this brand again. The main problem with this Engine is spare parts. Do you know anyone who send land rover genuine parts to me. I have watched all episodes about this Engine. Congrats. Do you have e-mail?
Sorry, I don't know who would send parts to Brazil. You'll have to search online.
@@pistonbroke ok. Thanks
Were about in South wales u based
The Piston 1 and 8 same level
Is this the 306dt engine?
Yes
@ would you say that this engine is reliable if maintained properly?
No, it's shit.
@ Ok, too bad I own one then 😂 fuck
@@Max-ns6nb sell it. Bloody money pits they are
Steve your the Man. Just out of interest how much do u charge to replace the belts on one of these mate?
£700 parts and labour for both belts.
@@pistonbroke thanks mate I’ll be in touch. 👍
Drop me an email pistonbrokelr@gmail.com
@@pistonbroke will do thanks again Steve.
I can help to fit cam timing
All carpet valve and put engine oil ,set cam shaft
سلا عليكم بي التوفيق يا رجال عمل موافق
Anyone over there offering tuning for American f150🤔
Nope
Show parabéns
God I would love to work for you guys :D
Seriously, you wouldn't!
@@pistonbroke honestly I have seen some videos from you and you guys explained more things about the Discovery then all the guys that I have seen. Thank you for the video.
Yer ha ha kunzima la mangabe inqamula ibhande ama valve ayagoba yin letimming
I think I would have given the block a coat of paint while it was stripped.
Why? You'll never see it.
Nakubali
👍 굿~~~
You never showed how to lock the crank, in video you say I already shown you. But you haven’t.
This is one video of a 15 part series, I did show it in a previous video in this series.
your videos have convinced me to never buy a range rover that is out of warranty
You can. Just don't get one with the diesel v6
🇲🇦🇲🇦🇲🇦🇲🇦
Do you guys got any facebook page? Or a contact number ? Cheers
Great work,
Love the land rovers but these engines are cheap junk.
Junk, yes. Cheap, no