Same size very old Toyoya inline diesel engine has 7 bearings compared to Ford/Jaguar 4 bearings. 600 newton metres of torque on the jaguar and they gave it 4 bearings!
Hi thanks for watching and for your feedback. The block is made of compacted graphite iron which uses less material to produce compared to a conventional cast iron block, this provides reduced weight and length. It does not explain by how much the length it is reduced but reduced block length = reduced crankshaft length. That could be another reason for the inherent failure. There could be many reasons but without the correct testing equipment it's anyone's guess.
See what mods Ford did to the 3.0 power stroke in the Ford F-150 pickup apparently changed the bearings and fitted a forged crankshaft it was fitted around 2018 to 2022 in the USA also the Australian Ford Territory had this engine 2.7 for many years without any problems so did they make changes I recommend good synthetic oil with 6k mile changes and new oil pumps at around 150k miles or better when you change the cam belt as it’s not much more work.
Regular serving and maintenance and these engines last. I’m on 196k miles in my 2005 XJ Sport Premium and it’s as sweet as a nut. Owned it for 10 years from 48k miles.
This is due to the compression ratio specified by the project and a faulty design of oils distribution same engine is fitted on Citroen C6 but the lower compression of the engine doesn’t lead to catastrophic results.
The cylinder numbers are not always like this most V engines are numbered from the front as to their position down the crank so it will alternate left bank to right bank and the French love numbering their engines from the back to front of the engine.
I've got the 2.7 in my LR3. It's done 196,000 miles, no problems. I service it every 3000 miles. If I got a 3.0 Disco 4 and followed the same service interval would using zx1 friction eliminator go any way to making this kind of failure not happen? Thanks.
I've come across your excellent video following a catastophic engine failure of my wife's 2018 3.0L V6 Jaguar XF Sportsbrake with just 40,000 miles she's had it since 2021, serviced twice at a Jaguar specialist using Jaguar parts. We raised a complaint with JLR due to the extremely low mileage and had it inspected at a local dealership, as requested by JLR customer services. The dealership advised they drained approx 7.7L of oil containing large amounts of metal fragments, which sounds like the idea of deisel getting into the oil is valid, as there is little chance of the specialist over-filling it. The car regularly showed the DPF regeneration message shortly before the self-destruct, and as the car was primarily used for short, local journeys in recent months, I wonder if these are the cars that have had the failings. I have read of the DPF regeneration of Jaguars that might explain these failings, that turning the engine off during the high temperature process, does not give it time to cool it down, and there is no message for the driver to not stop the engine during the process. JLR responded following report by the dealership with a visit by one of their HQ engineers, which I was told was to ensure the engine had not been chipped or had performance parts that may have jeopardised the integrity of the engine, which it had not. Still, the undisclosed amount they offered towards the replacement engine by said dealership leaves an outstanding amount of just over £18,000 for us to pay. We have taken the issue up with the Ombudsman and been told today that they are willing to investigate our complaint, though from what we read this could be up to a year to reach an outcome. We still have to find a replacement, preferably warrantied reconditioned engine supplier that will not rip us off. I read that all too often engine suppliers up their original pricing by a substantial amount for "unforseen additions" so if anyone can recommend anyone, preferably in the south east, Surrey, Kent, Essex area it will be welcomed.
>The car regularly showed the DPF regeneration message shortly before the self-destruct, and as the car was primarily used for short, local journeys in recent months Oil delusion. While the car is running a DPF regen it dumps extra diesel into the cylinders. If the DPF regen doesn't finish, because of short trips, it will try and do the regen again and again. You end up with diluted engine oil far thinner than specification viscosity. This is exacerbated by JLR claims these engines only need an oil change every 15,000+ miles. I'm sorry for your loss as I'm sure it has been stressful. Always fully research your vehicle and learn from other peoples horror stories.
@@LCDqBqA thank you for expanding on how the regen does the dilution. I'm presuming the excess diesel in the pistons that haven't been ignited upon switching off the engine, drains past the rings into the sump where it mixed with the engine oil?
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. It does appear that oil dilution is the cause of failure in this case due to the amount of oil drained. The engine is a Ford / PSA design ( Peugeot / Citroen ) and is fitted too those as well as JLR. Ask Jaguar to itemize their quote because as I understand it they charge an excess of £2,500 , which is returnable on your old unit which implies their engines are rebuilt. They charge approximately £10,000 including VAT for the engine which leaves £8,000 plus the undisclosed amount to fit it according to your quote which seems an excessive amount.
@@crystalclearmechanics Thank you for the great videos on the Jags. I'm trying to keep mine in good condition. I have heard about this, and read on a few jag forums it appears less of an issue on later Jag models just before the pre-ingenium engines. However, in terms of oil dilution, is there a way I can tell if this is/ has taken place? Will the oil smell like diesel or have any signs? I do some short journeys but mix with 40-50 min motorway journeys and only use vpower diesel to try prevent any issues. Thanks
Hi Matt, thank you for watching and for your feedback. If your oil level goes up then it's a sure indication of diesel fuel dilution. I recommend 5,000 mile oil and oil filter change intervals as a precaution. @@mattturner7461
Hi Rohina, thank you for watching and for your feedback. In most cases It is not economically viable to rebuild these engines when the bottom end has failed. If you have a 2.7 TDV6 then I would recommend you buy a used engine ( you must be able to hear it run ) from a pre regenerative Jaguar S Type ( 2004-2005 some 2006 ) or buy the whole car ( around £800-£1000 ), for XF fitment change / use the XF alternator and AC compressor. @@rohinaakthar4511
Nothing wrong with "only" 4 main caps compared to the other V6 diesels around. For example VW Audi V6 TDI are the same, plus there are locking notches for the main bearing. The chains are from the back means engine out every time! However these are known to fail due to bad/worn hydraulic chain tensioners and more smaller issues due to engine design, leaks and of course failing engine peripheries which is very similar across all modern diesel engines. I would not say the TDV6 (SDV6) is a bad engine in first place. Take care of every engine, listen wise people and do your preventative maintenance and it will last.
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. You are right about the preventative maintenance, I'll be uploding a new video soon to show cause of failure.
Same noise 2.7 TDV6 LR today advised it’s injector knock - an injector that’s dribbling some fuel and not atomising it - I agree as I placed a stethoscope on the right hand top side timing cover and could hear the noise.
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. I stick to the recommended oil or equivalent simply because I have not put the research into how different oils / grades may affect the engine / cats / DPF. I do recommend 5 to 6,000 mile oil / filter changes just in case the engine oil is, or starts to get diluted by the diesel fuel.
Go to the LR Time channel on RUclips. Christian, one of the presenters gives advice about which oil to use and why these engines fail. Spun main bearings are because the two central main bearings share lubrication oil from the same oil gallery pipe, so the oil pressure to them is too low. Whereas the two end main bearings have their own oil galleries. On top of this, the width of the main bearings is quite low and there are only four of them, on a LR, with a high torque engine, that puts lots of stress on them, an inline 6 cylinder would have 7 main bearings, so much lower stress on each one. LR chose the V6 to save space and money as this engine that can go in jaguars, C6 citroens and LRs. A bit of a compromise / penny pinching I'm afraid.
@@richardhasler6718 I did find them and , watched the video you are referring to. It was very interesting. I decided to put 5w40 in mine. So far so good.
Hi Richard, thank you for watching and for your feedback. Your comment / advise raises the fundamental question, why do only a small number of these engines fail in comparison to the thousands / millions that don't ? @@richardhasler6718 Thanks again for watching.
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. I understand the theory but putting anything behind the bearing shells could produce adverse effects unless designed for that purpose.
What years are we talking about here? I have a 2008 xf with the 2.7 diesel engine - 135,000 miles no issues apart from a crack in the plastic coolant housing last week which i replaced easy enough. Are these problems on the older X type/landrover engines from the early 00s? Thanks
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. The Jaguar TDV6 with the regen DPFs fitted from 2006 and newer. Just to make it clear, this is not across the board, I have seen some with 280,000 miles and still going strong. I recommend 5 to 6,000 mile intervals between oil / filter changes. Reason, the computer alters the timing and amount of fuel injected into the engine to help heat up the DPF to aid regeneration. This fuel finds it's way into the oil sump and dilutes the oil hence shorter intervals for oil changes.
@@crystalclearmechanics Thanks again, I'll shorten the service intervals. They are great cars to live with, I want to keep her on the road for as long as possible. .
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. The engine in the video is from a 2008 Jaguar XF. Same engine as your Range Rover but with different ancillaries.@@juanpablo-vn1xo
Hi Claude, Thank you for watching and for your feedback. To be fair to Jaguar / Land Rover the engine is a design by Ford / PSA which is used in certain JLR / Peugeot / Citroen and Ford models and maybe other makes I'm not aware of.
15:55 is the jaguar long block or even the short block compatible with the Landrover (bolt holes sensors etc ?) could i source a jag engine and transfer the remaining parts onto the long block ?
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. As reported year for year they are the same. I have not had the engine from a Land Rover and a Jaguar sitting side by side to compare but I did sell a Jaguar 2.7 engine to be fitted in a Land Rover and they didn't report any issues. I don't know if you include the oil pan / sump as part of the long / short block but that is different, My advise if it's the 2.7 engine you need, go for a 2004-2005 some 2006 before DPF regen.
@@crystalclearmechanics if I could easily replace it with something else I would , a nice Mercedes’ 606 would be ideal. I can get a complete Landrover engine with 300,000 kilometres and no idea of the service for €1500 or a an AJD from a 09 Jag XF with 135K for €500. Nothing wrong with what I have in it at the moment but it’s a lottery for when it goes bang as it’s also over 300,000 kilometres. Great car, shame about the engine. I believe the newer ones are even more delicate.
Hi John, thank you for watching and for your feedback. I can't say first hand as I have not been in a Jag when the engine has started to fail but all 4 customers assured me there was no warning until they heard the loud knocking. There are weaknesses in the engines design but I think other factors cause or help to cause the failures, otherwise all the engines would fail instead of the very few that do. My advise if you own one, change the engine oil and filter at 5,000 mile intervals, the reason, the fuel injection timing is altered to help DPF regeneration which can possibly cause diesel fuel to get in and mix with the engine oil resulting in diluting the oil.
Regular serving and maintenance and these engines last. I’m on 196k miles in my 2005 XJ Sport Premium and it’s as sweet as a nut. Owned it for 10 years from 48k miles. Motto is: regular servicing and maintenance, but it ain’t cheap….
Hi Graham, thank you for watching and for your feedback. If you watch my video "cause revealed" it explains the main cause for failure but you are correct, servicing at the correct intervals helps longevity.
Blimey! Only a 100k miles on this engine and yet such a catastrophic wear on the bottom end. I’ve heard many people joke about that the 2.7 / 3.0 tdv6 is made off glass but I always thought it was down to the owners…I’m now starting to have second thoughts if I should avoid those engines…. If I am not mistaken JLR were telling their new vehicle users that their very first service is due on the 15K miles. Which me personally I find ridiculous. Brand new engine that’s still bedding and working-in there are some minor particles to be expected in the first oil change as a result of this process yet they are expecting you to have the first service in such a long range…My theory is that people who actually listened to this nonsense advise are the ones who suffer the worst failures of their engines. So buying a pre-owned vehicle like this is a pure luck coming down to how sensible was the very first owner of it.
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. I advise 5,000 mile intervals between engine oil and filter change because of possible oil dilution by diesel fuel which can happen during altered fuel injection timing for DPF regeneration.
Hi William, thank you for watching and for your feedback. I would advise using the Jaguar recommended oil for that vehicle and climate. I recommend oil and oil filter interval replacements at 5,000 miles.@@williamseabrajr
C3 5w 40 I was watching that German guy earlier on with his wife and they were talking about oils and the category don't go for the real modern stuff@@williamseabrajr
Cause is simple ,,,, low oil levels ,,, the sensor checks the level in the morning with all the oil in the sump , and its just ok , no oil level warning run the engine and half the oil is in the top of the engine , then go up hill or down and the oil pickup has nothing but air to lift ,,, end of engine . if they had a deeper sump with more oil they may be fine , but tabs on the shells would help too , fix both and the issue would go away . well thats my thoughts.
The problem is high compression + a faulty oil distribution lines design. Same engine is used on Citroen C6 and this don’t happens . To use those compression ratios on LR one must create new paths ( opening holes on the block ) till the middle bearings and course figure out new paths. Also increasing slightly the oil pressure inside the pump is a good move after all is TO MUCH compression for TO FEW bearings with a bad and faulty oil distribution the first and last bearings receive more lubricant than the middle bearings. Using Fusion 360 for that task is of great help. Also you could simply lower your car compression will be slower and have the same power of Citroen C6 but most probably that won’t happen. But I prefer the 1st option + using Fusion 360 is extremely easy near intuitive also you can monetize well by creating improved spare parts and running simulations something that Fusion 360 software also allows one to do.
Hi,thank you for watching and for your feedback. If you watch my video " Cause revealed " it shows the main cause of failure. I recommend a 5,000 mile engine oil and filter change as a precaution. A check you can do yourself although it's not exact is to check your engine oil level on a regular basis, If it is increasing change your oil / filter and maybe your driving style. My "cause revealed" video explains it all. Thanks again for watching.
Rapid cold starts,foot to the metal straight away not giving engine time to circulate oil ? In my Discovery 4 2016 I always wait 45 seconds at least before I drive away.
You class thst as where I would say it's just well run in what's the mileage? Big bearings not good why not put lug? I want you to get a Jaguar XF XJ ideally the V6 diesel but I'm not sure now? probably around 2010 onwards probably around 100,000 mileage anything I should look out for or not bother? what about the 2.2 l d I haven't got the facility the engine. Could it be overheating issue stretching the bolts are some of the boats not really up to standard? Do they have a manufacturing mark
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. I'm in the process of making a video that answers the question as to what causes these engines to destroy themselves. This will not be applicable in every case but appears to be the main cause.
Could the engine not be modified? Maybe tap the oil feed hole and green Loctite in a threaded tube that protrudes 1mm or so to prevent the shells from spinning? Asking as a non-engineer.
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. If you watch my video " Cause revealed " you will see the main reason for the self destruction of these engines but of course there are other factors for engine fails beside the main one I pointed out. As for preventing the shells from spinning, they used to have locating lugs on the shells which fitted into grooves machined into the block, Although I worked on petrol engines at the time, The shells and crank would wear to the point of the mains rumbling and the big ends knocking but the shells would stay in place. Did the lugs make a differance, I would guess yes, others would say no.
The main problem is this engines not made for 2.5 ton heavy 4x4 suv's land rovers destroy low ends of engine because of crankshaft cant carry the stress of weight jaguars are going 250-300 mile without any problem especially xj's(because lighter 1 ton) also oiling process is so important in this engines this engines not start and go engines you must wait minimum 15-20 second for oiling ıf you good maintain them they go really high mileage without any major problem,nice videeo thank you !
Also note that JLR was recommending the wrong oil type, whereas PSA, was recommending the correct type. That's why you never see PSA cars with these problems.
@@daveyboiyeah thats true also jaguars and psas have 2 garrett turbocharger and its have nice boost lr models have 1 big borg warner its no boost in low rpms and low end gonna eat itself my siblings have xj 2.7 with 510k km factory engine my s-type 2.7 only 185k km no problem workin like a first day 7k km-1 year oil filter service and general engine maintanence(oil pump water pump belts etc) also cheap oil filters are not work on this this engines ı always use genuine oil filter mahle air filter
All Cars with he 2.7 have these problems. Citroën and Peugeot ar much lighter, but, always the same, sooner or later. What really makes a difference, euro3 cars last longer. Euro4 engines have particulate filters, they have a cleaning process every 1000mls, that cause problems, Diesel can get in the oil sump. A lot of heat, bad for the engine oil.
Shocking - I'm no engineer but as @dfor50 says below, why only 4 main bearings for 6 cylinders? OK, it's a V but back in the 70s my Dad bought a new Cortina, with the Pinto engine and that had 5 mains for 4 cylinders. My 2013 XF 3.0D S engine failed at just under 40k miles - crankshaft. Lucky for me JLR replaced it at their expense so it was just an inconvenience to me. I've seen a few of these stripdowns and I just don't get the design of these engines. I mean, 6 bolts for each main bearing cap - 6???, and the skinniest crankshaft webs I've ever seen - no wonder they break - not to mention the lack of tabs on the shells! Anyway, just home from a 2,200 mile trip to the S of France, taking it to just under 60k on the clock, and all good.
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. The engine is a Ford-PSA design and uses compacted graphite iron to form the block allowing for weight reduction, increased strength and a shorter block, how much shorter or from what benchmark they fail to state but anyway a shorter block means a shorter crankshaft. It is in fact a 4 bolt mains, the extra 2 side bolts ( through the block ) are to give the thin walled block stability. Yes I agree with you about the missing tabs on the shells, although many say they are only locating tabs and that crush pressure holds the shells in place I would argue that the pressed tabs also give resistance to circular movement, spinning shells was not the norm with tabbed shells in my experience, worn shells and worn / oval cranks yes. The early 2.7 S Type jags ( pre DPF regeneration ) appear very reliable which points to the possibility of the engine oil being diluted in later cars due to the timing of the fuel injection being altered by the computer to assist DPF regeneration by way of hotter exhaust gasses, excess fuel finding it's way into the oil sump. Other factors may come into play but as a safeguard I recommend engine oil / filter changes at 5 t0 6,000 miles.
You can also substitute a bigger diameter of main bearing for width, but I totally agree they tried to make a short length engine for transverse mounting effing it all up.
Hi, thanks for watching. 95,000 miles, full Jaguar main agent service history, the car was serviced and given a clean health check report by the agents at just under 90,000 miles, the customer then sold the car to the new owner who had covered just over 5,000 miles when without warning it started knocking.
Hi Darren, Thank you for watching and for your feedback. I will be uploading a video explaining the reason why a small percentage of these engines self destruct. I don't know your driving style but would advise an oil and oil filter change at 5,000 mile intervals as a precaution.
@@crystalclearmechanics thankyou my friend . I noticed in the service history the cam belt wasn't changed at 180k . I've now booked it in for a full service and cam belt change . $4300aud ! But at least I can drive it in peace then
When traveling with load in the car or high speed but low revs, kick down the gearbox first sonthe revs go up before accelerating had. Its called engine lugging, the oil pump isnt spinning quick enough to cool the engine when on load
there have been many problems with all variants. 2.7 initially had spun main bearing as it didn't a locating key, just press fit, as the guy said 5 revisions of the oil pump to fix oil starvation,, yet still the cranks continue to snap
Too narrow bearings for that size of engine and a wrong oil grade recommended by the manufacture causes this engine failure. The formed oil lube of 5W-30 is too thin to hold that amount of torque in that narrow bearing gap.
When I started rebuilding engines in the 60s it was unheard of to find an engine without the little lugs in the bearing shells, which made it effectively physically impossible for them to spin, both main and big ends the same (except the sidevalve Fords which had white metal bearings sprayed on to the con rod big ends and no separate shells, crap as Fords were and still are). Why on earth did they stop doing that? I used to think designs were changed to improve efficiency and reliability, not to write engine blocks off!
LR Time reckon the 5W30 oil grade is a Dumbass grade and way too thin. Christian has converted to 5W40 medium SAPS C3 I'm doing the same with my XJ 👍 These modern thin oils are only for the benefit of lower emissions readings NOT for the longevity of the engines. Draw your own conclusions ⚠️
Hi Jules, thank you for watching and for your feedback. Using any oil apart from that recommended by the manufacturer will invalidate any warrenty that the vehicle may have. Watch my video " cause revealed "
@@crystalclearmechanics yes appreciate that. My XJ is 9 years old and most are out of JLR warranty now anyway ! Let the experiments begin, it can't be any worse than the current failure statistics
You should admit that using any method of lock-in-place for both shells wouldn't have had the same result of spinning in place. In my book, it's a major design flaw. Why doesn't it not pop out for every engine? because even in the CNC era not all bits are equal. It happens when by design there is no room for error and both shells and cap are on their edge of specification. Isn't it funny how things are getting worse over time au contraire with natural expectations?
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. If you watch my video "cause revealed" it explains the main cause of failure but I am inclined to agree with you that the tags on the shells although supposedly designed for location would help to stop the shells spinning which would probably result in just a crank regrind instead of the further damage caused.
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. The internet highlights what is in fact a very small number of these engines that fail compared to the number that do not. Unless someone can give a definitive causation as to the failure of these engines, then it is all just personal guesswork. Jaguar explain how the Ford PSA designed engine was produced and some of the materials used in their manuals. The cylinder block is cast in compacted graphite iron, which uses less material to produce compared to a conventional cast iron block. This provides reduced weight and length ( they do not explain by how much the length was reduced if at all but a shorter block results in a shorter crankshaft hence the crankshaft could be a weak point ) with superior structural capabilities. The bottom of the block is crossbolted and a ladder frame is bolted to the bottom of the block to give it a very stiff bottom end. It must be taken into account that these engines were designed and fitted in cars before the DPF regeneration system was fitted which alters the fuel injection timing to help heat up the DPF ( my experience of early S Types, pre regeneration, they appear reliable ). There are many factors that could cause the bottom end failure hence I can not give a definitive causation ( diluted engine oil from diesel fuel could be a problem, that's why I recommend 5,000 mile oil and oil filter change intervals as a precaution but the list is long ). Thanks again for watching.
This engine is released in the Ford territory in Australia with the 2.7l and their are literally no issues hear with these engines. This type of damage is classically caused by bad drivers flooring the accelerator when the oil is stone cold repeatedly and being a V6 doesn't help. Because the territory is just a average car without a premium image they don't get thrashed, often driven by middle class moms not by rich wankers that think that their 4x4 is a sports car. If you want to know what causes these failures first look at the people that drive them.
⚠️My theory for these failures I think is numpties thrashing them from cold. If it was a design fault they would all fail. I operate aircaft engines and so for example Rotax specify letting the oil temp reach a minimum of 50C before applying full power for take off. How many car owners do this? For a start we don’t monitor the oil temp in cars. I'll give you a rough idea of the time it takes a petrol engine to reach 50C = 12 mins. For a diesel it's going to be longer from 15 - 20 mins !!! So think about that before you thrash a cold engine folks 😎
Those bearing shells and their relative places in the block have no tabs to locate them and stop them from spinning!! That is a disaster waiting to happen from the first time the engine is started! What a bad design!!
Hi Phill, thank you for watching and for your feedback, If you look at my video "cause revealed" It shows the main reason for failure. I am inclined to agree with you about the pressed lugs on the shells, I think although apparently not designed for the purpose of stopping the shells from spinning they must help.
Hi Artis, thank you for watching and for your feedback. If you are looking for a difinitive causation of failure regarding these engines then you will continue to feel frustrated. The video was made to show the parts of the engine inside and out ( also the parts that failed ) for reference purposes. I gave a few possibilities as to cause at the end of the video ( what I assume you refer to as ramblings ) Thanks again for watching.
Why do you blindly believe the absurdity that was invented for the 2.7tdv6 engine in 2005 and continue to listen like a herd of sheep or pour 5w30 oil? :) I have had Entie Rover diesels, all with chipped engines, egr off fpf off chip 2.7; 3.0; 3.6; I have always put Wolf 10w60 full synthetic oil in the 4.4td, any problems disappear. In a hot summer, your 5w30 is like water... The head for that is to think with it... :)@@crystalclearmechanics
Hi Artis, Can you put aside your frustration for a moment and explain in a reasonable manner why the vast majority of 2.7 TDV6 engines are trouble free as are the later versions while still running on the oil recommended by JLR. Any oil used other than what is recommended by the manufacturer invalidates any warranty, be it on a new or used vehicle. Fitting a performance chip is fine, removing the EGR and DPF is illegal and an MOT failure. Maybe you are living outside of the UK where this is allowed. @@dakteriitis
The manufacturer is not particularly concerned about what happens after the warranty period. Also taking into account the fact that the engine is produced by another company that doesn't care at all. In our case, it has been clear to everyone for a long time that there are problems with lubrication. Loaded engine, high friction. You need oil with good oil film stability. Similar to sports cars ferrari, lambo, bugati, bmw m5 they pour 10w60 synthetics I am currently driving an lr L322 4.4 TDV8, I was filled with this oil and everything is ok@@crystalclearmechanics
Hi Stuart, Thank you for watching and for your feedback. Watch my video " Cause revealed " It's specific to Jaguar but if LR use the same DPF regeneration system? I always recommend 5,000 mile intervals for oil and filter change in case of oil dilution although you can check the oil level to see if it increases, if it does then change the oil and filter.
Look at this: A hand in shot. Many minutes of undoing bolts despite saying you'd do it off camera. Then more bolts. Camera not showing what you're looking at. Don't give up the day job. Videos like this are why I don't make RUclips videos, you may know your subject, but if you're rubbish at filming and editing it ends up like this.
Hi Tuppy, thank you for watching and for your feedback. Could you give the time of " hand in shot " in the video, you will find the minutes and seconds at the bottom of the video. The bolts were undone off camera apart from the last couple of threads. Give the time when the " camara is not showing what i'm looking at ". At the end of your comment you intimate that you are rubbish at filming and editing and that is the reason you don't make RUclips videos. Could you clarify which parts of the video you found hard to follow, the oil pump removal - the oil pan / sump - the front sprocket - the drive plate - the ladder rack - the main bearing caps - the big end caps - the crankshaft etc etc ? Thanks again for your feedback.
Same size very old Toyoya inline diesel engine has 7 bearings compared to Ford/Jaguar 4 bearings. 600 newton metres of torque on the jaguar and they gave it 4 bearings!
Hi thanks for watching and for your feedback. The block is made of compacted graphite iron which uses less material to produce compared to a conventional cast iron block, this provides reduced weight and length. It does not explain by how much the length it is reduced but reduced block length = reduced crankshaft length. That could be another reason for the inherent failure. There could be many reasons but without the correct testing equipment it's anyone's guess.
See what mods Ford did to the 3.0 power stroke in the Ford F-150 pickup apparently changed the bearings and fitted a forged crankshaft it was fitted around 2018 to 2022 in the USA also the Australian Ford Territory had this engine 2.7 for many years without any problems so did they make changes I recommend good synthetic oil with 6k mile changes and new oil pumps at around 150k miles or better when you change the cam belt as it’s not much more work.
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. I agree, 5 to 6,000 mile oil / filter change.
Regular serving and maintenance and these engines last. I’m on 196k miles in my 2005 XJ Sport Premium and it’s as sweet as a nut. Owned it for 10 years from 48k miles.
I've just had this happen on my 2017-RANGE ROVER VOGUE SE TDV6 at 76200 miles after only four months of ownership.
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. I'm sorry too hear about your car / engine, hopefully you will be covered by warrenty.
This is due to the compression ratio specified by the project and a faulty design of oils distribution same engine is fitted on Citroen C6 but the lower compression of the engine doesn’t lead to catastrophic results.
The cylinder numbers are not always like this most V engines are numbered from the front as to their position down the crank so it will alternate left bank to right bank and the French love numbering their engines from the back to front of the engine.
I've got the 2.7 in my LR3. It's done 196,000 miles, no problems. I service it every 3000 miles. If I got a 3.0 Disco 4 and followed the same service interval would using zx1 friction eliminator go any way to making this kind of failure not happen? Thanks.
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. I recommend oil and filter changes at 5 to 6,000 miles for customers but 3,000 can only be good.
I've come across your excellent video following a catastophic engine failure of my wife's 2018 3.0L V6 Jaguar XF Sportsbrake with just 40,000 miles she's had it since 2021, serviced twice at a Jaguar specialist using Jaguar parts.
We raised a complaint with JLR due to the extremely low mileage and had it inspected at a local dealership, as requested by JLR customer services. The dealership advised they drained approx 7.7L of oil containing large amounts of metal fragments, which sounds like the idea of deisel getting into the oil is valid, as there is little chance of the specialist over-filling it.
The car regularly showed the DPF regeneration message shortly before the self-destruct, and as the car was primarily used for short, local journeys in recent months, I wonder if these are the cars that have had the failings. I have read of the DPF regeneration of Jaguars that might explain these failings, that turning the engine off during the high temperature process, does not give it time to cool it down, and there is no message for the driver to not stop the engine during the process.
JLR responded following report by the dealership with a visit by one of their HQ engineers, which I was told was to ensure the engine had not been chipped or had performance parts that may have jeopardised the integrity of the engine, which it had not. Still, the undisclosed amount they offered towards the replacement engine by said dealership leaves an outstanding amount of just over £18,000 for us to pay. We have taken the issue up with the Ombudsman and been told today that they are willing to investigate our complaint, though from what we read this could be up to a year to reach an outcome.
We still have to find a replacement, preferably warrantied reconditioned engine supplier that will not rip us off. I read that all too often engine suppliers up their original pricing by a substantial amount for "unforseen additions" so if anyone can recommend anyone, preferably in the south east, Surrey, Kent, Essex area it will be welcomed.
>The car regularly showed the DPF regeneration message shortly before the self-destruct, and as the car was primarily used for short, local journeys in recent months
Oil delusion. While the car is running a DPF regen it dumps extra diesel into the cylinders. If the DPF regen doesn't finish, because of short trips, it will try and do the regen again and again. You end up with diluted engine oil far thinner than specification viscosity. This is exacerbated by JLR claims these engines only need an oil change every 15,000+ miles.
I'm sorry for your loss as I'm sure it has been stressful. Always fully research your vehicle and learn from other peoples horror stories.
@@LCDqBqA thank you for expanding on how the regen does the dilution. I'm presuming the excess diesel in the pistons that haven't been ignited upon switching off the engine, drains past the rings into the sump where it mixed with the engine oil?
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. It does appear that oil dilution is the cause of failure in this case due to the amount of oil drained. The engine is a Ford / PSA design ( Peugeot / Citroen ) and is fitted too those as well as JLR. Ask Jaguar to itemize their quote because as I understand it they charge an excess of £2,500 , which is returnable on your old unit which implies their engines are rebuilt. They charge approximately £10,000 including VAT for the engine which leaves £8,000 plus the undisclosed amount to fit it according to your quote which seems an excessive amount.
@@crystalclearmechanics Thank you for the great videos on the Jags. I'm trying to keep mine in good condition. I have heard about this, and read on a few jag forums it appears less of an issue on later Jag models just before the pre-ingenium engines. However, in terms of oil dilution, is there a way I can tell if this is/ has taken place? Will the oil smell like diesel or have any signs? I do some short journeys but mix with 40-50 min motorway journeys and only use vpower diesel to try prevent any issues. Thanks
Hi Matt, thank you for watching and for your feedback. If your oil level goes up then it's a sure indication of diesel fuel dilution. I recommend 5,000 mile oil and oil filter change intervals as a precaution. @@mattturner7461
Brilliant video, really informative.
Hi Richard, thank you for watching and for your feedback.
@@crystalclearmechanics Hi, do you rebuild these engines?
Hi Rohina, thank you for watching and for your feedback. In most cases It is not economically viable to rebuild these engines when the bottom end has failed. If you have a 2.7 TDV6 then I would recommend you buy a used engine ( you must be able to hear it run ) from a pre regenerative Jaguar S Type ( 2004-2005 some 2006 ) or buy the whole car ( around £800-£1000 ), for XF fitment change / use the XF alternator and AC compressor. @@rohinaakthar4511
@@crystalclearmechanics , Thank you that's the impression I'm getting - just ridiculous that so many of these fail like this.
jesus i never saw metal crap like that in any engine, the reputation of the 3.0 xf is why i bought a 2.2 xf hopefully it will be bulletproof
A Peugeot engine, reliable. If you change the oil every 10000km/ 7000mls.
Nothing wrong with "only" 4 main caps compared to the other V6 diesels around. For example VW Audi V6 TDI are the same, plus there are locking notches for the main bearing. The chains are from the back means engine out every time! However these are known to fail due to bad/worn hydraulic chain tensioners and more smaller issues due to engine design, leaks and of course failing engine peripheries which is very similar across all modern diesel engines. I would not say the TDV6 (SDV6) is a bad engine in first place. Take care of every engine, listen wise people and do your preventative maintenance and it will last.
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. You are right about the preventative maintenance, I'll be uploding a new video soon to show cause of failure.
Same noise 2.7 TDV6 LR today advised it’s injector knock - an injector that’s dribbling some fuel and not atomising it - I agree as I placed a stethoscope on the right hand top side timing cover and could hear the noise.
Hi Matty, thank you for watching and for your feedback.
Would you recommend using 5w40 oil instead of 5w30? Mine has 175K miles on it and has the DPF (09MY). Thinking of using 5w40 now
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. I stick to the recommended oil or equivalent simply because I have not put the research into how different oils / grades may affect the engine / cats / DPF. I do recommend 5 to 6,000 mile oil / filter changes just in case the engine oil is, or starts to get diluted by the diesel fuel.
Go to the LR Time channel on RUclips. Christian, one of the presenters gives advice about which oil to use and why these engines fail. Spun main bearings are because the two central main bearings share lubrication oil from the same oil gallery pipe, so the oil pressure to them is too low. Whereas the two end main bearings have their own oil galleries. On top of this, the width of the main bearings is quite low and there are only four of them, on a LR, with a high torque engine, that puts lots of stress on them, an inline 6 cylinder would have 7 main bearings, so much lower stress on each one. LR chose the V6 to save space and money as this engine that can go in jaguars, C6 citroens and LRs. A bit of a compromise / penny pinching I'm afraid.
@@richardhasler6718 I did find them and , watched the video you are referring to. It was very interesting. I decided to put 5w40 in mine. So far so good.
Hi Richard, thank you for watching and for your feedback. Your comment / advise raises the fundamental question, why do only a small number of these engines fail in comparison to the thousands / millions that don't ? @@richardhasler6718 Thanks again for watching.
@@crystalclearmechanicsthousands of them are failing. It's more of a when, rather than an if, on these units.
Query, could you put a smear of lock tight on the bearing shell ?
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. I understand the theory but putting anything behind the bearing shells could produce adverse effects unless designed for that purpose.
What years are we talking about here? I have a 2008 xf with the 2.7 diesel engine - 135,000 miles no issues apart from a crack in the plastic coolant housing last week which i replaced easy enough. Are these problems on the older X type/landrover engines from the early 00s? Thanks
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. The Jaguar TDV6 with the regen DPFs fitted from 2006 and newer. Just to make it clear, this is not across the board, I have seen some with 280,000 miles and still going strong. I recommend 5 to 6,000 mile intervals between oil / filter changes. Reason, the computer alters the timing and amount of fuel injected into the engine to help heat up the DPF to aid regeneration. This fuel finds it's way into the oil sump and dilutes the oil hence shorter intervals for oil changes.
@@crystalclearmechanics Thanks again, I'll shorten the service intervals. They are great cars to live with, I want to keep her on the road for as long as possible. .
@@crystalclearmechanicsi have a range rover sport l320 2.7 ona 2006 plate with no dpf...so is this one on the video newer model?
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. The engine in the video is from a 2008 Jaguar XF. Same engine as your Range Rover but with different ancillaries.@@juanpablo-vn1xo
The 2.7 is a very cheap engine to buy second hand. 3.0d much dearer.
Jaguar and Landrovers reputational damage is catastrophic because of this microscopic design flaw
Hi Claude, Thank you for watching and for your feedback. To be fair to Jaguar / Land Rover the engine is a design by Ford / PSA which is used in certain JLR / Peugeot / Citroen and Ford models and maybe other makes I'm not aware of.
Brilliant thanks you just saved me hours I has sump of lodes of shaving and bearings toast
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback.
Watch my video " cause revealed " it gives the Main reason for most of the engine failures.
15:55 is the jaguar long block or even the short block compatible with the Landrover (bolt holes sensors etc ?) could i source a jag engine and transfer the remaining parts onto the long block ?
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. As reported year for year they are the same. I have not had the engine from a Land Rover and a Jaguar sitting side by side to compare but I did sell a Jaguar 2.7 engine to be fitted in a Land Rover and they didn't report any issues. I don't know if you include the oil pan / sump as part of the long / short block but that is different, My advise if it's the 2.7 engine you need, go for a 2004-2005 some 2006 before DPF regen.
@@crystalclearmechanics if I could easily replace it with something else I would , a nice Mercedes’ 606 would be ideal. I can get a complete Landrover engine with 300,000 kilometres and no idea of the service for €1500 or a an AJD from a 09 Jag XF with 135K for €500. Nothing wrong with what I have in it at the moment but it’s a lottery for when it goes bang as it’s also over 300,000 kilometres. Great car, shame about the engine. I believe the newer ones are even more delicate.
Hi, I would like to ask if there are any symptoms to spot before the engiine fails like vibrations or noises?
Hi John, thank you for watching and for your feedback. I can't say first hand as I have not been in a Jag when the engine has started to fail but all 4 customers assured me there was no warning until they heard the loud knocking. There are weaknesses in the engines design but I think other factors cause or help to cause the failures, otherwise all the engines would fail instead of the very few that do. My advise if you own one, change the engine oil and filter at 5,000 mile intervals, the reason, the fuel injection timing is altered to help DPF regeneration which can possibly cause diesel fuel to get in and mix with the engine oil resulting in diluting the oil.
@@crystalclearmechanics Thanks for that info and advice.
Regular serving and maintenance and these engines last. I’m on 196k miles in my 2005 XJ Sport Premium and it’s as sweet as a nut. Owned it for 10 years from 48k miles.
Motto is: regular servicing and maintenance, but it ain’t cheap….
Hi Graham, thank you for watching and for your feedback. If you watch my video "cause revealed" it explains the main cause for failure but you are correct, servicing at the correct intervals helps longevity.
Blimey! Only a 100k miles on this engine and yet such a catastrophic wear on the bottom end.
I’ve heard many people joke about that the 2.7 / 3.0 tdv6 is made off glass but I always thought it was down to the owners…I’m now starting to have second thoughts if I should avoid those engines…. If I am not mistaken JLR were telling their new vehicle users that their very first service is due on the 15K miles. Which me personally I find ridiculous. Brand new engine that’s still bedding and working-in there are some minor particles to be expected in the first oil change as a result of this process yet they are expecting you to have the first service in such a long range…My theory is that people who actually listened to this nonsense advise are the ones who suffer the worst failures of their engines.
So buying a pre-owned vehicle like this is a pure luck coming down to how sensible was the very first owner of it.
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. I advise 5,000 mile intervals between engine oil and filter change because of possible oil dilution by diesel fuel which can happen during altered fuel injection timing for DPF regeneration.
Hi,
So which oil you guys recommend? Here in Brazil I'm using 5w40 in my LR4 3.0 SDV6
Hi William, thank you for watching and for your feedback. I would advise using the Jaguar recommended oil for that vehicle and climate. I recommend oil and oil filter interval replacements at 5,000 miles.@@williamseabrajr
I wonder if it's better to use a ceramic oil filter? Definitely block more particles
C3 5w 40 I was watching that German guy earlier on with his wife and they were talking about oils and the category don't go for the real modern stuff@@williamseabrajr
Cause is simple ,,,, low oil levels ,,, the sensor checks the level in the morning with all the oil in the sump , and its just ok , no oil level warning run the engine and half the oil is in the top of the engine , then go up hill or down and the oil pickup has nothing but air to lift ,,, end of engine . if they had a deeper sump with more oil they may be fine , but tabs on the shells would help too , fix both and the issue would go away . well thats my thoughts.
Hi Tom, thank you for watching and for your feedback. Watch my cause revealed video for the main reason.
The problem is high compression + a faulty oil distribution lines design. Same engine is used on Citroen C6 and this don’t happens . To use those compression ratios on LR one must create new paths ( opening holes on the block ) till the middle bearings and course figure out new paths. Also increasing slightly the oil pressure inside the pump is a good move after all is TO MUCH compression for TO FEW bearings with a bad and faulty oil distribution the first and last bearings receive more lubricant than the middle bearings. Using Fusion 360 for that task is of great help. Also you could simply lower your car compression will be slower and have the same power of Citroen C6 but most probably that won’t happen. But I prefer the 1st option + using Fusion 360 is extremely easy near intuitive also you can monetize well by creating improved spare parts and running simulations something that Fusion 360 software also allows one to do.
C5 and C6 has the same engines as shown on material, and has the same issues. I already took apart multiple C5s with that issue.
Hi Rafael, thank you for watching and for your feedback.
Would any of these symptoms manifest itself during regular servicing 😊
Hi,thank you for watching and for your feedback. If you watch my video " Cause revealed " it shows the main cause of failure. I recommend a 5,000 mile engine oil and filter change as a precaution. A check you can do yourself although it's not exact is to check your engine oil level on a regular basis, If it is increasing change your oil / filter and maybe your driving style. My "cause revealed" video explains it all. Thanks again for watching.
At this point.... 'It's fu*ked' is a legitimate diagnosis...
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback.
Hence the reason I bought a disco 3 with the ford exploder er explorer engine
The oil pumps in these engines don't supply enough volume or pressure.
Hi Darrel,thank you for watching and for your feedback. That does not explain why only a small number of these engines fail.
Rapid cold starts,foot to the metal straight away not giving engine time to circulate oil ? In my Discovery 4 2016 I always wait 45 seconds at least before I drive away.
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. Worth doing.@@blackvulcan100
You class thst as where I would say it's just well run in what's the mileage? Big bearings not good why not put lug? I want you to get a Jaguar XF XJ ideally the V6 diesel but I'm not sure now? probably around 2010 onwards probably around 100,000 mileage anything I should look out for or not bother? what about the 2.2 l d I haven't got the facility the engine. Could it be overheating issue stretching the bolts are some of the boats not really up to standard? Do they have a manufacturing mark
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. I'm in the process of making a video that answers the question as to what causes these engines to destroy themselves. This will not be applicable in every case but appears to be the main cause.
Could the engine not be modified? Maybe tap the oil feed hole and green Loctite in a threaded tube that protrudes 1mm or so to prevent the shells from spinning? Asking as a non-engineer.
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. If you watch my video " Cause revealed " you will see the main reason for the self destruction of these engines but of course there are other factors for engine fails beside the main one I pointed out. As for preventing the shells from spinning, they used to have locating lugs on the shells which fitted into grooves machined into the block, Although I worked on petrol engines at the time, The shells and crank would wear to the point of the mains rumbling and the big ends knocking but the shells would stay in place. Did the lugs make a differance, I would guess yes, others would say no.
Plz help which parts really fits in 3.0 from 2.7
Thank you for watching and for your feedback. Could you tell me the year of the 3.0 Ltr and also which parts are you referring too.
The main problem is this engines not made for 2.5 ton heavy 4x4 suv's land rovers destroy low ends of engine because of crankshaft cant carry the stress of weight jaguars are going 250-300 mile without any problem especially xj's(because lighter 1 ton) also oiling process is so important in this engines this engines not start and go engines you must wait minimum 15-20 second for oiling ıf you good maintain them they go really high mileage without any major problem,nice videeo thank you !
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. You make some good points.
Also note that JLR was recommending the wrong oil type, whereas PSA, was recommending the correct type. That's why you never see PSA cars with these problems.
@@daveyboiyeah thats true also jaguars and psas have 2 garrett turbocharger and its have nice boost lr models have 1 big borg warner its no boost in low rpms and low end gonna eat itself my siblings have xj 2.7 with 510k km factory engine my s-type 2.7 only 185k km no problem workin like a first day 7k km-1 year oil filter service and general engine maintanence(oil pump water pump belts etc) also cheap oil filters are not work on this this engines ı always use genuine oil filter mahle air filter
Hi Davey, as i replied to your first comment, Please watch the new video ( soon to be uploaded ) @@daveyboiyeah
All Cars with he 2.7 have these problems. Citroën and Peugeot ar much lighter, but, always the same, sooner or later. What really makes a difference, euro3 cars last longer. Euro4 engines have particulate filters, they have a cleaning process every 1000mls, that cause problems, Diesel can get in the oil sump. A lot of heat, bad for the engine oil.
Shocking - I'm no engineer but as @dfor50 says below, why only 4 main bearings for 6 cylinders? OK, it's a V but back in the 70s my Dad bought a new Cortina, with the Pinto engine and that had 5 mains for 4 cylinders. My 2013 XF 3.0D S engine failed at just under 40k miles - crankshaft. Lucky for me JLR replaced it at their expense so it was just an inconvenience to me. I've seen a few of these stripdowns and I just don't get the design of these engines. I mean, 6 bolts for each main bearing cap - 6???, and the skinniest crankshaft webs I've ever seen - no wonder they break - not to mention the lack of tabs on the shells! Anyway, just home from a 2,200 mile trip to the S of France, taking it to just under 60k on the clock, and all good.
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. The engine is a Ford-PSA design and uses compacted graphite iron to form the block allowing for weight reduction, increased strength and a shorter block, how much shorter or from what benchmark they fail to state but anyway a shorter block means a shorter crankshaft. It is in fact a 4 bolt mains, the extra 2 side bolts ( through the block ) are to give the thin walled block stability. Yes I agree with you about the missing tabs on the shells, although many say they are only locating tabs and that crush pressure holds the shells in place I would argue that the pressed tabs also give resistance to circular movement, spinning shells was not the norm with tabbed shells in my experience, worn shells and worn / oval cranks yes. The early 2.7 S Type jags ( pre DPF regeneration ) appear very reliable which points to the possibility of the engine oil being diluted in later cars due to the timing of the fuel injection being altered by the computer to assist DPF regeneration by way of hotter exhaust gasses, excess fuel finding it's way into the oil sump. Other factors may come into play but as a safeguard I recommend engine oil / filter changes at 5 t0 6,000 miles.
You can also substitute a bigger diameter of main bearing for width, but I totally agree they tried to make a short length engine for transverse mounting effing it all up.
Ford wanted an engine that could be mounted transversely or longitudinally. For this the engine had to be short, hence only 4 main bearings.
How many miles / km did this engine have?
Hi, thanks for watching. 95,000 miles, full Jaguar main agent service history, the car was serviced and given a clean health check report by the agents at just under 90,000 miles, the customer then sold the car to the new owner who had covered just over 5,000 miles when without warning it started knocking.
That Ford diesel is a heap of rubbish but not surprised Land Rover used it......They are hell bent on destroying the LR brand....
It's a Peugeot Citroën engine JLR got in for cheap
Then ford grabbed it and to shock the world VW just put this shit in the new Amarok
I just bought a 2016 Fpace 3.0lt twin turbo & am now sh*tting myself !
Hi Darren, Thank you for watching and for your feedback. I will be uploading a video explaining the reason why a small percentage of these engines self destruct. I don't know your driving style but would advise an oil and oil filter change at 5,000 mile intervals as a precaution.
@@crystalclearmechanics thankyou my friend . I noticed in the service history the cam belt wasn't changed at 180k . I've now booked it in for a full service and cam belt change . $4300aud ! But at least I can drive it in peace then
@@guinn24154300au!! Rip-off.
When traveling with load in the car or high speed but low revs, kick down the gearbox first sonthe revs go up before accelerating had. Its called engine lugging, the oil pump isnt spinning quick enough to cool the engine when on load
I think this is more of an issue with the 3 litre due to the extra hp?
there have been many problems with all variants. 2.7 initially had spun main bearing as it didn't a locating key, just press fit, as the guy said 5 revisions of the oil pump to fix oil starvation,, yet still the cranks continue to snap
My XF 2.7 (2008) changed engine at 76000km with this same problem!
Too narrow bearings for that size of engine and a wrong oil grade recommended by the manufacture causes this engine failure. The formed oil lube of 5W-30 is too thin to hold that amount of torque in that narrow bearing gap.
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. If you watch my video " Cause Revealed " It explains the main reason for these engine failures.
When I started rebuilding engines in the 60s it was unheard of to find an engine without the little lugs in the bearing shells, which made it effectively physically impossible for them to spin, both main and big ends the same (except the sidevalve Fords which had white metal bearings sprayed on to the con rod big ends and no separate shells, crap as Fords were and still are). Why on earth did they stop doing that? I used to think designs were changed to improve efficiency and reliability, not to write engine blocks off!
Hi Nigel, thank you for watching and for your feedback. It's not a good idea to put accountants in charge.
LR Time reckon the 5W30 oil grade is a Dumbass grade and way too thin.
Christian has converted to 5W40 medium SAPS C3
I'm doing the same with my XJ 👍
These modern thin oils are only for the benefit of lower emissions readings NOT for the longevity of the engines.
Draw your own conclusions ⚠️
Hi Jules, thank you for watching and for your feedback. Using any oil apart from that recommended by the manufacturer will invalidate any warrenty that the vehicle may have. Watch my video " cause revealed "
@@crystalclearmechanics yes appreciate that.
My XJ is 9 years old and most are out of JLR warranty now anyway !
Let the experiments begin, it can't be any worse than the current failure statistics
@@julesviolin Hi Jules, thank you for watching and for your feedback. If you have not seen it? watch my video "cause revealed".
You should admit that using any method of lock-in-place for both shells wouldn't have had the same result of spinning in place. In my book, it's a major design flaw. Why doesn't it not pop out for every engine? because even in the CNC era not all bits are equal. It happens when by design there is no room for error and both shells and cap are on their edge of specification. Isn't it funny how things are getting worse over time au contraire with natural expectations?
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. If you watch my video "cause revealed" it explains the main cause of failure but I am inclined to agree with you that the tags on the shells although supposedly designed for location would help to stop the shells spinning which would probably result in just a crank regrind instead of the further damage caused.
This video explains the design fault of the crankshaft & possible causes of bearing failure... ruclips.net/video/v3moekbW6z8/видео.html
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. The internet highlights what is in fact a very small number of these engines that fail compared to the number that do not. Unless someone can give a definitive causation as to the failure of these engines, then it is all just personal guesswork. Jaguar explain how the Ford PSA designed engine was produced and some of the materials used in their manuals. The cylinder block is cast in compacted graphite iron, which uses less material to produce compared to a conventional cast iron block. This provides reduced weight and length ( they do not explain by how much the length was reduced if at all but a shorter block results in a shorter crankshaft hence the crankshaft could be a weak point ) with superior structural capabilities. The bottom of the block is crossbolted and a ladder frame is bolted to the bottom of the block to give it a very stiff bottom end. It must be taken into account that these engines were designed and fitted in cars before the DPF regeneration system was fitted which alters the fuel injection timing to help heat up the DPF ( my experience of early S Types, pre regeneration, they appear reliable ). There are many factors that could cause the bottom end failure hence I can not give a definitive causation ( diluted engine oil from diesel fuel could be a problem, that's why I recommend 5,000 mile oil and oil filter change intervals as a precaution but the list is long ). Thanks again for watching.
16:50 zatary silnik = obrócone panewki.
This engine is released in the Ford territory in Australia with the 2.7l and their are literally no issues hear with these engines. This type of damage is classically caused by bad drivers flooring the accelerator when the oil is stone cold repeatedly and being a V6 doesn't help. Because the territory is just a average car without a premium image they don't get thrashed, often driven by middle class moms not by rich wankers that think that their 4x4 is a sports car. If you want to know what causes these failures first look at the people that drive them.
⚠️My theory for these failures I think is numpties thrashing them from cold.
If it was a design fault they would all fail.
I operate aircaft engines and so for example Rotax specify letting the oil temp reach a minimum of 50C before applying full power for take off.
How many car owners do this?
For a start we don’t monitor the oil temp in cars.
I'll give you a rough idea of the time it takes a petrol engine to reach 50C = 12 mins.
For a diesel it's going to be longer from 15 - 20 mins !!!
So think about that before you thrash a cold engine folks 😎
Hi Jules, thank you for watching and for your feedback.My video " cause revealed " explains the main reason for failure but not all.
Правильно !!!!
Those bearing shells and their relative places in the block have no tabs to locate them and stop them from spinning!! That is a disaster waiting to happen from the first time the engine is started! What a bad design!!
Lugging causes this 😉
Hi Phill, thank you for watching and for your feedback, If you look at my video "cause revealed" It shows the main reason for failure. I am inclined to agree with you about the pressed lugs on the shells, I think although apparently not designed for the purpose of stopping the shells from spinning they must help.
One word reason : British !
American Ford, French PSA engine
Shells aren't notched thats daft
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback.
What conclusion did you come to? Empty ramblings and judgments like everyone else... I can tell you what to do so that it doesn't ...
Hi Artis, thank you for watching and for your feedback. If you are looking for a difinitive causation of failure regarding these engines then you will continue to feel frustrated. The video was made to show the parts of the engine inside and out ( also the parts that failed ) for reference purposes. I gave a few possibilities as to cause at the end of the video ( what I assume you refer to as ramblings ) Thanks again for watching.
Why do you blindly believe the absurdity that was invented for the 2.7tdv6 engine in 2005 and continue to listen like a herd of sheep or pour 5w30 oil? :)
I have had Entie Rover diesels, all with chipped engines, egr off fpf off chip 2.7; 3.0; 3.6; I have always put Wolf 10w60 full synthetic oil in the 4.4td, any problems disappear. In a hot summer, your 5w30 is like water... The head for that is to think with it... :)@@crystalclearmechanics
Hi Artis, Can you put aside your frustration for a moment and explain in a reasonable manner why the vast majority of 2.7 TDV6 engines are trouble free as are the later versions while still running on the oil recommended by JLR. Any oil used other than what is recommended by the manufacturer invalidates any warranty, be it on a new or used vehicle. Fitting a performance chip is fine, removing the EGR and DPF is illegal and an MOT failure. Maybe you are living outside of the UK where this is allowed. @@dakteriitis
The manufacturer is not particularly concerned about what happens after the warranty period. Also taking into account the fact that the engine is produced by another company that doesn't care at all. In our case, it has been clear to everyone for a long time that there are problems with lubrication. Loaded engine, high friction. You need oil with good oil film stability. Similar to sports cars ferrari, lambo, bugati, bmw m5 they pour 10w60 synthetics
I am currently driving an lr L322 4.4 TDV8, I was filled with this oil and everything is ok@@crystalclearmechanics
10_60 would probably mean the added diesel would take longer to reduce the oil quality. Therefore his arguments are trolling.
Probably cos he's black 🖤
had mine rebuilt 4 months back after turbo took the engine with it, range rover need there balls kicked
Hi Stuart, Thank you for watching and for your feedback. Watch my video " Cause revealed " It's specific to Jaguar but if LR use the same DPF regeneration system? I always recommend 5,000 mile intervals for oil and filter change in case of oil dilution although you can check the oil level to see if it increases, if it does then change the oil and filter.
Look at this: A hand in shot. Many minutes of undoing bolts despite saying you'd do it off camera. Then more bolts. Camera not showing what you're looking at.
Don't give up the day job.
Videos like this are why I don't make RUclips videos, you may know your subject, but if you're rubbish at filming and editing it ends up like this.
Hi Tuppy, thank you for watching and for your feedback. Could you give the time of " hand in shot " in the video, you will find the minutes and seconds at the bottom of the video. The bolts were undone off camera apart from the last couple of threads. Give the time when the " camara is not showing what i'm looking at ". At the end of your comment you intimate that you are rubbish at filming and editing and that is the reason you don't make RUclips videos. Could you clarify which parts of the video you found hard to follow, the oil pump removal - the oil pan / sump - the front sprocket - the drive plate - the ladder rack - the main bearing caps - the big end caps - the crankshaft etc etc ? Thanks again for your feedback.
@@crystalclearmechanics Don't worry about trolls.
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. I appreciate it.@@S-u-p-a