How to make it look easy, this is not what will happen if I have a go lol. Great video it's so much better to watch and learn if the engine is out of the car because you can see what is going on. Thanks
@jempoof Hi Jeremy thank you for watching and your feedback, a good point. You are correct, although I do turn the tensioner anti-clockwise in the video and the arrow is plain to see, I should have mentioned it verbally. Thanks again.
what a great video always hated timing keep them coming modern engines are a nightmare my wifes car has a wet timing belt took out warranty just in case it snapped
Hi i assume if you marked the crank with tip ex and had your timing pins in the cams is there an absolute need for the crank tool I have a customers range rover coming in next week and dont have the tools so i was going to use drill bits and tipp ex
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. Yes you can do it like that for the vehicle to run as it did with the old belt fitted, but you will not know if the valve timing is exact and peak performance is obtained. It's up to you and your customer how you proceed. Thanks again for watching.
Thank you for an excellent video. The problem moved the camshaft without the belt. How can I realign the camshafts again . Thank you before hand and God bless you.
Unfortunately it was NOT. Please also can you tell us how to install the left toothed cam wheel as I removed both tooted wheels . The cams where moved without the flywheel pin and without the belt on. Big mistake. I know now. This was done due lack of experience. The right one ( I think is the intake) is no problem as it has only position for the pin to go in. But the left one (I think is the exhaust) has two or three positions . The question is, which position it should go in. I hope there is solution for the mess I did.
Luckily I found how to install back the left toothed cam wheel as when I looked carefully on the back of the wheel I saw the markings of the exact image on the cam shaft plate . So one headache out of the way. Then I install the belt and made on full turn on the camshaft wheel bring the left cam for the pin to go in. Removed the cam belt and turn the right cam intake till I got the second pin in. Now both pins are in place. Then turn the crank clockwise till I saw the first hole (Bit oval) ( as there are three holes in the flywheel . 1 little oval , 2 round , 3 little oval . I tried No2 but engine stuck when turning by hand. Then tried No.1 . I had the 2 Cam pins in and the tool on the flywheel hole No.1. Install the cam belt using your procedure. remove the crank tool and the 2 pins. Turn the crank 2 times while the cam wheels turned one time. Insert the 2 pins in the camshaft and the one on the flywheel and all fitted nicely. So it seems it is OK. But still waiting for a friend from Jaguar to have a look at it before I start to be sure 200%. Thank you again for your kind assistance. This was a nightmare. God bless you for your kind assistance.
@@chbonnici Hi Charles, I am assuming the engine is out of the car and that it is from an automatic car, If so you have a driveplate that the torque converter has been removed from. With the torque converter removed the 4 securing bolt holes will line up with the crankshaft locking tool, the hole for the locking tool is slightly elongated and very close to one of the securing bolt holes. On the face of the driveplate the 4 securing bolt holes for the Torque converter usually show a square or partly square rust impression where the torque converter fits. The 2 cam sprockets you mention fit on the exhaust cams ( seen in my video ), the inlet cams you will not see unless you remove the cam / valve covers, the inlet cams are chain driven off the exhaust cams.It is vitally important that the 2 cam sprockets are torqued correctly. In case I am assuming incorrectly could you tell me which car you have, is it manual or automatic, is the engine in or out of the car and what job did you set out to do.
No the engine is not removed out of the car . I was just trying to change the timing belt but my locking where not in place due they were to big in diameter to go in al the way. I thought they where in. But obviously I was wrong. At this point I got confused and turned the crank many times with the belt off . By the way the car is an automatic Jaguar XFs Diesel V6 it was originally registered in England late October 2013, Presently now both (2) pins on the camshafts and in definitely and the tool is locked in the flywheel. but it could be the the piston No1 is either on the compression stroke or on the exhaust stoke. How I will be sure that I am in the compression stroke TDC ? Else engine will be out of phase by 180 degrees. I thank you again for your kind patients and for for kind help.
Hi Nick, thanks for the very well explained video. I have a Jaguar XF 3.0D V6 and need toi change the cam belt in situ, do you know if the procedure is the same? I cant find any videos on RUclips about it. John
Hi John, thank you for watching and for the feedback. Yes it is the same procedure to change the cam belt on the XF 3.0D V6. Thanks again for watching.
In the process of finishing this job and what a PITA it has been, mostly with locking the crankshaft. My tool was ever slightly too fat for the outer opening and I thought I was just not hitting the hole for the locking pin. Wasted hours! Anyone know the torque value for the 6 bolts holding the aux belt pulley to the crankshaft?
Hi Paul, thank you for watching and for your feedback. The 6 bolts holding the crankshaft vibration damper on { front crankshaft pulley } have a torque of 25Nm. I had the same problem as you with the crankshaft locking tool being to big to fit through the engine block, it was aftermarket but on checking with the Jaguar main agent workshop mechanics the Jaguar tool was also too big to fit the hole, they had ground theirs to fit, I had mine turned on a lathe to fit. This was about 10 years ago so I thought Jaguar would have fixed this problem. I would think aftermarket tools are a copy of the Jaguar tool.
Hi Steve, yes as reported they are the same. One thing to keep in mind, when I purchased the crankshaft locking tool ( many many years ago ) it was to big to fit through the hole in the engine block. I had it machined down a few thou so it would fit. I assume that would not be the case now but who knows, just a thought.@@Unkn0wnMy5tic
Hi Christopher, thank you for watching and for your feedback. If you go to my video ruclips.net/video/0s-73gspB4w/видео.html You will be able to see what is involved in changing the oil pump. Don't forget there are oil pump bolts going upwards securing the oil pump.
Hallo, vielen Dank fürs Zuschauen und für Ihr Feedback. Es ist in der Übersetzung nicht klar, was Ihre Frage betrifft, aber der Motor muss ausgebaut werden, um die Kurbelwelle zu ersetzen.
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. I don't know is the short answer. When you say the oil pump design, are you referring to the casing breaking or the output or both?
By loosening the three bolts on the camshaft pulleys you lose the fine adjustment. The pins lock the crankshaft and the camshaft pulleys, but what sets the camshafts in position?
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback.The pins lock the camshafts in position, not the pulleys, the pulleys are left loose so that when the belt is tensioned there is no slack left between cams and crankshaft.
@@crystalclearmechanics Thanks for that, I didn't realise the pins went through the shaft and locate in the casing behind. Do you recommend checking the belt stretch and camshaft timing after some time has elapsed?
How do you know the crank is in time ,,,you never checked it,,you said the left cam needs to be at 5oclock and the right at 7oclock then went to the back of the engine to check the fuel pump,,all you said about the crank was ,,,don't take the bolt out,,,
@nightstorm9128 Hi , thank you for watching and for your feedback. At about 3 minutes into the video and throughout you will see me fitting the crankshaft locking tool at the back and lower part of the engine ( behind the starter motor ) . The video only shows the timing of the cam belt, there is a seperate video showing the fitment of the high pressure fuel pump belt which does not need to be timed on the 2.7 engine. Thank you again for watching and I hope I have cleared up the confusion.
@@HMC_LTD Hi thank you for watching and for your feedback. Yes you are correct the timing could be out if the crankshaft locking tool is not fitted. I do fit the crankshaft locking tool which can be seen at about 3 minutes into the video as it can be seen throughout the video. Thanks again for watching and subscribing.
Bonjour Sir
Votre vidéo est super clair. Pas évident d'en trouver qui soit aussi explicite pour ce type de motorisation. Félicitation...
Bonjour, merci d'avoir regardé et j'apprécie vos commentaires. Merci encore
How to make it look easy, this is not what will happen if I have a go lol. Great video it's so much better to watch and learn if the engine is out of the car because you can see what is going on. Thanks
gracias por el video y las explicaciones , un saludo desde España
@malaga2023 Gracias por vernos y bienvenidos al canal. I hope that's correct.
Good Vid. Always check the arrow on the tensioner bearing, some go clockwise some anti. And its real bad if you go the wrong way on a VW diesel Golf.
@jempoof Hi Jeremy thank you for watching and your feedback, a good point. You are correct, although I do turn the tensioner anti-clockwise in the video and the arrow is plain to see, I should have mentioned it verbally. Thanks again.
Danke für das Video 💪
Danke fur watching.
very well explained thank you
Hi John, thank you for watching and for your feedback.
Bravissimo mecanic
Hi. thanks for watching.
Always change the tensioner and the two guide pulleys and use a torque wrench to the correct torque.
what a great video always hated timing keep them coming modern engines are a nightmare my wifes car has a wet timing belt
took out warranty just in case it snapped
@sotspie501douglas Hi, thank you for watching and for your comment. Much appreciated.
Hi i assume if you marked the crank with tip ex and had your timing pins in the cams is there an absolute need for the crank tool I have a customers range rover coming in next week and dont have the tools so i was going to use drill bits and tipp ex
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. Yes you can do it like that for the vehicle to run as it did with the old belt fitted, but you will not know if the valve timing is exact and peak performance is obtained. It's up to you and your customer how you proceed. Thanks again for watching.
Hi sir, do you know is it possible to put crankshaft in RR sport 3.0 245 disel from older version RR sport 2.7l 190 disel
Thank you for an excellent video. The problem moved the camshaft without the belt. How can I realign the camshafts again . Thank you before hand and God bless you.
Hi Charles, thank you for watching. Could you tell me if you had the crankshaft locking tool in place when the camshafts moved?
Unfortunately it was NOT. Please also can you tell us how to install the left toothed cam wheel as I removed both tooted wheels . The cams where moved without the flywheel pin and without the belt on. Big mistake. I know now. This was done due lack of experience. The right one ( I think is the intake) is no problem as it has only position for the pin to go in. But the left one (I think is the exhaust) has two or three positions . The question is, which position it should go in. I hope there is solution for the mess I did.
Luckily I found how to install back the left toothed cam wheel as when I looked carefully on the back of the wheel I saw the markings of the exact image on the cam shaft plate . So one headache out of the way. Then I install the belt and made on full turn on the camshaft wheel bring the left cam for the pin to go in. Removed the cam belt and turn the right cam intake till I got the second pin in. Now both pins are in place. Then turn the crank clockwise till I saw the first hole (Bit oval) ( as there are three holes in the flywheel . 1 little oval , 2 round , 3 little oval . I tried No2 but engine stuck when turning by hand. Then tried No.1 . I had the 2 Cam pins in and the tool on the flywheel hole No.1. Install the cam belt using your procedure. remove the crank tool and the 2 pins. Turn the crank 2 times while the cam wheels turned one time. Insert the 2 pins in the camshaft and the one on the flywheel and all fitted nicely. So it seems it is OK. But still waiting for a friend from Jaguar to have a look at it before I start to be sure 200%. Thank you again for your kind assistance. This was a nightmare. God bless you for your kind assistance.
@@chbonnici Hi Charles, I am assuming the engine is out of the car and that it is from an automatic car, If so you have a driveplate that the torque converter has been removed from. With the torque converter removed the 4 securing bolt holes will line up with the crankshaft locking tool, the hole for the locking tool is slightly elongated and very close to one of the securing bolt holes. On the face of the driveplate the 4 securing bolt holes for the Torque converter usually show a square or partly square rust impression where the torque converter fits. The 2 cam sprockets you mention fit on the exhaust cams ( seen in my video ), the inlet cams you will not see unless you remove the cam / valve covers, the inlet cams are chain driven off the exhaust cams.It is vitally important that the 2 cam sprockets are torqued correctly. In case I am assuming incorrectly could you tell me which car you have, is it manual or automatic, is the engine in or out of the car and what job did you set out to do.
No the engine is not removed out of the car . I was just trying to change the timing belt but my locking where not in place due they were to big in diameter to go in al the way. I thought they where in. But obviously I was wrong. At this point I got confused and turned the crank many times with the belt off . By the way the car is an automatic Jaguar XFs Diesel V6 it was originally registered in England late October 2013,
Presently now both (2) pins on the camshafts and in definitely and the tool is locked in the flywheel. but it could be the the piston No1 is either on the compression stroke or on the exhaust stoke. How I will be sure that I am in the compression stroke TDC ? Else engine will be out of phase by 180 degrees.
I thank you again for your kind patients and for for kind help.
Hi Nick, thanks for the very well explained video. I have a Jaguar XF 3.0D V6 and need toi change the cam belt in situ, do you know if the procedure is the same? I cant find any videos on RUclips about it. John
Hi John, thank you for watching and for the feedback. Yes it is the same procedure to change the cam belt on the XF 3.0D V6. Thanks again for watching.
Always change the tensioner pulley and the two little guide wheels
In the process of finishing this job and what a PITA it has been, mostly with locking the crankshaft. My tool was ever slightly too fat for the outer opening and I thought I was just not hitting the hole for the locking pin. Wasted hours!
Anyone know the torque value for the 6 bolts holding the aux belt pulley to the crankshaft?
Hi Paul, thank you for watching and for your feedback. The 6 bolts holding the crankshaft vibration damper on { front crankshaft pulley } have a torque of 25Nm. I had the same problem as you with the crankshaft locking tool being to big to fit through the engine block, it was aftermarket but on checking with the Jaguar main agent workshop mechanics the Jaguar tool was also too big to fit the hole, they had ground theirs to fit, I had mine turned on a lathe to fit. This was about 10 years ago so I thought Jaguar would have fixed this problem. I would think aftermarket tools are a copy of the Jaguar tool.
Does the Lion V6 has any marks to watch out when changing the timing belt?
Hi Steve, thank you for watching and for your feedback. No marks Steve, just follow the video and the timing will be spot on.
Okay thanks
Next week I replace mine on Cit. C6 2.7 HDi, that's why I'm asking for but the engine is the same if I'm not wrong alright?
Hi Steve, yes as reported they are the same. One thing to keep in mind, when I purchased the crankshaft locking tool ( many many years ago ) it was to big to fit through the hole in the engine block. I had it machined down a few thou so it would fit. I assume that would not be the case now but who knows, just a thought.@@Unkn0wnMy5tic
Have you ever done an oil pump on one of these engines
Hi Christopher, thank you for watching and for your feedback. If you go to my video ruclips.net/video/0s-73gspB4w/видео.html You will be able to see what is involved in changing the oil pump. Don't forget there are oil pump bolts going upwards securing the oil pump.
as per manufacturer but lengthy amount of time between belt changes....
Hi thank you for watching and for your feedback.
Hallo, mein Motor ist nicht ausgebaute Zustand, kann ich ohne Krankschafft Fixierung montieren?
Hallo, vielen Dank fürs Zuschauen und für Ihr Feedback. Es ist in der Übersetzung nicht klar, was Ihre Frage betrifft, aber der Motor muss ausgebaut werden, um die Kurbelwelle zu ersetzen.
Is the same tools you can use them with 3.0 v6 ?
Hi thanks for watching. Yes the same tools can be used on the 2.7 and 3.0 TDV6 engines.
Where can you buy the tool kit?
@@EarthRover Hi, you can buy them from Jaguar / Sealey or on E-bay etc. Thanks again for watching.
Are people sueing jl over the oil pump design problem.
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. I don't know is the short answer. When you say the oil pump design, are you referring to the casing breaking or the output or both?
hello,I need a crankshaft v6 diésel. thankyou
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback. I don't think you can buy one new? Can you have yours machined?.
By loosening the three bolts on the camshaft pulleys you lose the fine adjustment. The pins lock the crankshaft and the camshaft pulleys, but what sets the camshafts in position?
Hi, thank you for watching and for your feedback.The pins lock the camshafts in position, not the pulleys, the pulleys are left loose so that when the belt is tensioned there is no slack left between cams and crankshaft.
@@crystalclearmechanics Thanks for that, I didn't realise the pins went through the shaft and locate in the casing behind. Do you recommend checking the belt stretch and camshaft timing after some time has elapsed?
Hi, Jaguar recommend belt change at 105,000 miles or 10 years ( maybe 7 years now as they have changed guidance on some models).
How do you know the crank is in time ,,,you never checked it,,you said the left cam needs to be at 5oclock and the right at 7oclock then went to the back of the engine to check the fuel pump,,all you said about the crank was ,,,don't take the bolt out,,,
@nightstorm9128 Hi , thank you for watching and for your feedback. At about 3 minutes into the video and throughout you will see me fitting the crankshaft locking tool at the back and lower part of the engine ( behind the starter motor ) . The video only shows the timing of the cam belt, there is a seperate video showing the fitment of the high pressure fuel pump belt which does not need to be timed on the 2.7 engine. Thank you again for watching and I hope I have cleared up the confusion.
You know it's out if time if the crack locking pin dissent go in
@@HMC_LTD Hi thank you for watching and for your feedback. Yes you are correct the timing could be out if the crankshaft locking tool is not fitted. I do fit the crankshaft locking tool which can be seen at about 3 minutes into the video as it can be seen throughout the video. Thanks again for watching and subscribing.
So without a tool i can get the correct timing