Land Rover Discovery 3 Disco 3 LR3 2.7 tdv6 timing belt renewal cam belt replacement discovery 4
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- Опубликовано: 21 май 2021
- Save time changing your timing/cam belt without having to take off your starter to lock up the flywheel with the locking tool.
In this I replace the timing belt of a Land Rover Discovery 3 2.7 tdv6. I do it without locking up the flywheel with the locking tool, I just use the 2 tools to lock out the 2 camshafts.
See What Else I’m Up To on these lot :-
Discovery 3 Fuel Injection pump belt renewal, click links below.
EP 1:- • LAND ROVER DISCOVERY 3...
EP 2:- • DISCOVERY 3 TDV6 2.7 E...
EP 3:- • DISCOVERY 3 TDV6 2.7 E...
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Hi everyone, as per all of my videos, if you have any questions what so ever please but them into the comment below and I will endeavour to get back to you, and I hope you enjoy the video...
Hi I’ve just been quoted £341 from a local garage to change the cam belt and water pump. Is this a standard price as some quotes I’ve had are around £900 and know cheap isn’t always good
@@sarahblakemore809 I really would kmow what they charge as I do all my own work. Dont forget these engines have a belt on the rear of the right head (as you look at the engine from the engine bay) you need to be getting that changed out as well as the ffont belt. Sorry I cant be of any help on the pricing of it, and thanks for watching the video.
Thank you, the rear belt and fuel pump was changed 20k ago but no one seems to have ever done the cambelt. I’m getting so stressed as I’ve had quotes from £341 right up to £987 and cheap isn’t always good
@@sarahblakemore809 what about this.
www.clickmechanic.com/
Input what you want done and see what it comes back with.
Thank you think I’ve found someone now for £800 but they offer finance. I’m happy with that
Just done this job this morning following your video. It took three and a quarter hours, it worked perfectly. Great instructions, many thanks.
Happy days.
Great video thanks, you have given me the confidence to do this . Not too technical, just methodical in each step. My 2014 Ford Territory in Australia is due at 165,000 klms according to the service manual, and I would prefer to do it myself as the local Ford dealer quoted $1700 and in the past has not inspired me with any mechanical confidence. Martin
Hello there! I just bought the beloved Discoveey 3. Thank you for your film, so I appreciate your careful work and demonstration!
Thanks for the kind words.
Great video just rebuilding my TDV6 engine after tensioner snapped off water pump. So happy to see you struggling slightly getting timing pins to relocate after turning engine over for 2 turns. Had same problem but worried it wasnt timed quite right. Now confident it is all ok. Glad you didn't edit that bit out 👍
Very helpful video. Cudos for answering the questions as you said you would. Cheers from Australia.
Excellent and comprehensive video. Thanks.
great video best one yet on tdv6 timing belt replacement
Thanks very much.
Will be doing this tomorrow. Top information, thanks bud
Crap engine design, but well done. They run good until the next gremlins appear or the crankshaft snaps or the handbrake fails, or the compressor fails, or the glow plugs fail, or the egr valves fail, or the suspension needs replaced, or the inlet valve cracks, or the oil pump pressure fails etc, etc, etc etc, ££££££££££££. Great off road when they work. Thanks for sharing.
It's very valuable information, thank you very much.👍👍👍
Thanks very much 😀
Thanks for that film good job.
Glad you enjoyed it
This is a brilliant video and will be a big help when I do my wife's '3, I'll check out your hpfp video as well.
Looking at the video and comments-
Cam pulley bolts should be tightened by being counter held with the cam centre bolt? Tensioner bolt torque- I'm thinking 24nm and thread locker? I'll replace oil pump as well.
Thanks again for such an informative video.
fair play to you well done
NICE JOB !
Thanks
Very nice
Thanks
Great video thanks ?
Your welcome
Thanks for the video. I have this job coming up on a Jag XF very soon.
In the manual it says not to use the special tools to lock the camshaft when undoing and re-doing the timing pulley bolts. Surely by removing the pins you could loose timing, I noticed you left them in place. Do you have a view of this, or am I miss-understanding something.
Thanks
Hi. Great video thank you. I didn’t expect that it will be so easy.
But!
After all job a can’t start car just cranking but not starting I have checked everything again (if the timing belt didn’t move )but all is good and both crankshafts pulley are on the marks and one same position as before. My obd lynx said
“Р0341-00
Camshaft position sensor
A - circuit range/ performance (bank 1 or
single sensor)”
Please could you help what else do I can check?
Thank you
I would bet 20 quid this is how they do it at the dealers as well, they may have done the first few the correct factory way, then someone thought hang on sunshine I reckon!
Great video, helped a lot. I'm going to DIY mine, already changed a couple of timming belts. Just a question: would it help to remove glow plugs to work with no compression at all ?
Not really, the engine will turn without taking them out.
The compression in the cylinders will seap down past the rings so no need to worry about that
I have a question for you, how do you find those camshaft holes? Are there any marks on the crankshft in front? Or du you just rotate the engine untill you find those holes in both camshafts?
Just a inquiry after watching the video why does the cam Vernier pulleys need marking before fitment of the new belt if the cams are pinned behind the pulley I get the principal of loosening the pulleys in relation of correct belt tension as the belt would be incorrect tensioned along the top run of the belt and can't sometimes seem impossible to fit without slackening the bolts. I like to mark the cams on vag engines as it can throw the correlation of the cam sensor out therefore cause hard starting issues. And experienced floating un keyed pulleys on most fords. Which I do not mark at all use the correct setting tools as it can be impossible to gauge tdc. Their must be a theory behind it and I'm intreagued to know why.
Many thanks Tw motors keep the videos coming. :)
Hi, Great video, I'm in Australia and have a timing belt to change on a Ford Territory, it also has the 2.7 tvd V6 engine. I also wish to change the front crankshaft seal & cam shaft seals while it is apart. It is an automatic, I have seen the cam shaft & crank alignment tools for sale, however they say not to use the crankshaft alignment tool to hold the crankshaft in place to loosen the crank pulley bolt. Can you suggest how is the best way to hold the crank so the front pulley bolt can be loosened, I believe they are very tight. Thanks
Hi Greg, I have yet to do mine. When I do, do mine, I will be using the flywheel locking tool, and if i dont get joy with that, I will be renting Milwaukee M18 high torque impact wrench or sim and that will do it.
Is that the same on the 2010 range rover sport 3.0 tdv6
How much does a small indie garage charge to change the timing belt on a disco 4, sdv6 2014?
Good video. Looks like the old style oil pump. Change it ASAP. Its a common fault for the idler to snap off the pump and throw the timing out and bugger the engine
Hi Chris thanks for the comment. My take on the idler snapping, is people over tightening them. Can't remember off the top of my head without watching the video, but I think it's 24nm which is not a lot. That said tho I am going to do mine so as I can do a video for the channel. Thanks again for the comment 😀.
@@rawtoasttv424 I doubt it is that. The only way that would be the case is if the bolt pushed onto the block causing the oil pump to push off the block. I have seen load of them cracked about to go. It's mor likely been a weak design. For the cost of the pump I'd always change it with the belts anyway. Pumps don't perform as well with age over time so a new pump will do a favour to thr hydraulic tappets
I have also heard the same from an LR specialist - it’s the over tightening that kills them, not the pump design. That’s why they pretty much fail AFTER a belt change. However, as said above - for the cost of the pump, change it for peace of mind.
I changed the pump on mine for this reason. However to get the pump off you have to remove the crankshaft belt drive sprocket so you loose the timing, so then you really do have to pull the starter to lock the crank. On my Jag I had to drop the sump to change the pump as well, but I think on the LRs it isn't necessary. On the Jag there is an access plug on the bottom of the bell housing. If you do ever have reason to lock the crank pull the plug out and make your own TDC mark on the torque converter through that plug hole. That way you never need to lock it again.
Hi is this the same for the Range Rover sport 3.0 SD TDV6 ? Cheers
Good video mate seems easy to do thought it would be more of a job. what is the recommended miles to do the change ..? My discovery is on 106k
Hi Neil, Thanks for watching the video. Timing belts are done every 105,000 miles or every 7 years I do believe. There is a video on my channel on how to change the rear one. Thanks again and Good luck, any problems what so ever get back to me on here and I will happily help.....
Cheers. Another great vid. Also got a kit to do next week. Did you re tension after the notch had moved. I've seen a few say even the manual revolution check is enough to stretch and seat the belt a bit to throw the notch off. Nice to see it proven there's no need to lock the flywheel. Have you got the uprated oil pump out of interest and what kit did you fit.. I could only get an inna one but I've heard good reviews.
Hi Rich, yes i retightened the tensioner after again. I dont know why you would have to lock the fly wheel up because any compression in cyclinder one why putting it to TDC would have sliped down past the rings by the time it came to getting the belt off. I guess its just as a safety precaution so it dont come off TDC on the bottom end. I havent changed the oil, but it could be a furture video (very soon). You say you could only get an INNA pump, what are others saying the best is and y could you not get one.
Got another question bud. In middle of doing mine exactly as per your vid. My kit is an ina kit BTW. I noticed at about 24.50 mark you can freely pull the LH pin out but have to tickle the crank bolt to get the rh pin out as its tight. I'm getting exactly the same. Just want some assurance this is def normal and OK. I can get both pins in and mark aligned but I'm having to move the crank bolt very fractionally after I've tensioned to get the rh one out. 2 revs and its all lining up ok
@@RichardFrost800 yes it's OK. All that's happening there is one of the valve rockers is sitting on the side of the camshaft lobe and it's trying to close or open that valve. That's where the resistance is coming from. That's why you shouldn't do this job without locking the camshafts up on the engine, because more than likely your camshafts will rotate to the place of lest residence, ie off the side of any cam lobes. Any other questions get back to me and let me know if it's running OK. That's for the question knight.
Just got it back together and fired up first time. Was a squeal at first which I think was aux belt slipping on the wet pulleys from overnight but it's stopped and sounds good. Many thanks
@@RichardFrost800 cool, I'm happy I've helped someone.
So no need to lock the crank by removing the starter
Great video, Thank you.
Can one of you let me know why the 'Exhaust camshaft pully retaining bolts' need to be loosened and tightened after installing the timing belt? Thank you
To take out the slack in the belt when it is tensioned. That y u turn the pulleys to the right and as u tension the belt the pulleys will turn to the left with the belt, and then tighten the pulley bolts. Hope thus helps.
@@pineappleskullgaming3808 That makes sense, Thank you
Did someone seen cracked oil pump case ? Is under tensioner pulley, at 28:58 ... probably engine failure after some short time
All this work then the crank snaps.
Hello, I'm Thai. I have a Discovery 3 engine. It runs rough. Can you help me analyze the cause? Please
Just a question at 25:07 you pull out a bolt or socket just near where you are turning the fly wheel. Did you install this at some point that I may have missed and if so what was it for?
Hi, that bolt is to hold the belt to the bottom pully while you put the belt on from right to left, because you need all the slake on the left side where the belt tensioner is. Hope I have help you with this.
Thanks for the question.
@@pineappleskullgaming3808 that's awesome thanks for the response
out of curiosity how did you know the crank was at top dead centre on piston 1?
It doesn't have to be.... as long as none of the pullys move, you are taking the old belt off and replacing with the new one. The only reason I locked the camshafts is to stop them from moving round from being on the top of one of the lobes. Thanks for the question.
It said not to use the special tool to undo the camshaft bolts. Which apparently you did do. Any problems with that. Is there another way to hold the cam shafts? I'm amazed it doesn't have a spring loaded tensioner like most cars. Great video. I always thought it was unnesecary to lock the flywheel.
Hi Jay, sorry I havent got back to you sooner. Its better to hold the camshaft with the correct tool, I dont have that tool, props like so many other people doing this job in thier front yard. I dont know if there is any other way of holding it without the tool, maybe someone on here can advise. Is there any problems with doing it the way I did it. Not really other that I bent one of the locking tools ever so slightly but nowhere near enough to knock the timing out. since doing this job over 2 months ago, there has been 5 odd thousand mile on the car and its still going stong. Thanks for the comment and if I can be of any more help please get back to me...
@@rawtoasttv424 All good. I have a Ford Territory in Australia with the same engine. It's only done 130.000 k's but it's 10 years old. I know I need to do it one day. The rear belt looks a bit easier then yours. Well done.
@@JayDee-xj9lu that's good about the rear belt. Just remember , on my engine the 2.7, the rear belt DOESN'T need timed in, but on the newer one the 3.0 liter it needs timing in with fuel injection pump. Cheers.
great JayDee ,my Australian 2014 SZ is due for timing belt soon. What brand of timing belt product did you use? Replace pulleys and water pump as well? thanks .Martin. Very informative video from a home mechanic, would do a professional mechanic proud!@@JayDee-xj9lu
Good video mate , I also don't remove the starter motor is not worth the hassel
Thanks for the comment., and you are more proof that it can be done.
@@pineappleskullgaming3808 haha yeah I takes longer getting the starter motor out and back in the doing the belt itself hey haha
Ha ha, I don't know why it has replied with my gaming channel. Strange.
@@rawtoasttv424 hahah all good ill go check out your gaming channel 🤣
🤣🤣🤣🤣 I'm crap
Dear Do you have a video of a way to renew the timing chain Jaguar V8 XJ8 - 2000
Hi, no sorry I dont.
how much would a mechanic charge for this it looks very simple
It is simple, like MOST work on a car.
Why did you undo the 3 bolts per cam / camgear. What did that achieve??
It allows the belt to tension from the right hand cam (as you look at the engine) to the crankshaft pully.
@@rawtoasttv424 but doesn't that change the cam timing ? Back in the day we used to just change the belt. Tighten the tensioner Rotate the engine by hand 1 (or 2 ) full rotations then check the cam timing gear positions and crank position then recheck the tensioner .
@@bigfilsing no the camshaft itself is locked with locking pins and the outer vernier is whats turning.
@@rawtoasttv424 Ah just noticed the slots on cam gears where the pins go thru. Still seems odd but heh its been 25 years ( thank god) since i worked on cars :-) Enjoyed the video thou Cheers
@@bigfilsing thanks
Did anybody else hear a Dolphin?
Yes you would have 😂😂😂😂. Its what you call a family friendly video.
How much would you charge me to chance mine. Based in Kildare west? 😆
🤣 I live in Cambridge, in England.
I am a mechanic
cool
Very good example of how not to do a cam belt change. You have to renew the oil pump or front main oil seal. You dont use the lock pins to hold the cam to undo the vernier pulleys. I guarantee you if I lock that crank the way it should be done after your way of replacing a cam belt, one or none of your cam locking pins will line up.
You do get credit for blocking the intake on the LH side just below the PAS reservoir, and for fitting the belt on correctly according to the engine direction of rotation and at least torquing the bolts.
So Mr Johnny Clark, dont think your going to come on here and have an easy ride in the comment section. My first question, explain to me Y I have to change the oil pump and the front Crank seal.
Read carefully you need to replace the oil pump seal or front crank seal, depends where in the world you are everybody has a different name for the front main oil seal.
The reason for renewing it is because they could leak, and I have seen this many many times where I have to do rework after a cam belt service by someone else.
The oil pump is a different story, the early models oil pumps would break where the tensioner bolts on the oil pump, and here is the crux of that failure, it always happens after a cam belt change, so you tell me why it broke if it just ran 169,000km trouble free, is it really a poor design like everybody claims. Here is a tip for you only use the genuine front main seal and follow the workshop manual procedure for preparing and fitting the oil seal properly.
Done mine twice in 8 yrs and its still got the original front crank seal that I bought the car with, so long as the car has the uprated oil pump then theres no need to change the pump or the seal so long as its dry.
It’s not a video…. It’s an headache 🤕
Terribleness video.too much camera movement. Put the camera on a tri-pod. Gives me a headache trying to watch.
Very nice
Thanks
Hello, I'm Thai. I have a Discovery 3 engine. It runs rough. Can you help me analyze the cause? Please